A strong crepe chinchilla fabric and its production method

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a strong-crease imitation beaver fur fabric and a preparation method thereof. The preparation method of the strong-crease imitation beaver fur fabric comprises the following steps: (1) preparing base yarn and pile yarn; (2) performing grey fabric weaving on a double needle bed warp knitting machine provided with six guide bars by using the loop formation structure of W type hook connection of the pile yarn and the base yarn, to obtain a double-layer grey fabric with pre-prepared crease grooves, and cutting the double-layer grey fabric to obtain single-sided pile grey fabric; (3) performing loose water washing on the single-sided pile grey fabric, and then performing dyeing to obtain dyed grey fabric; (4) performing crease setting on the dyed grey fabric to obtain crease fabric; and (5) performing pile finishing on the crease fabric to obtain the strong-crease imitation beaver fur fabric. The fabric has the excellent performances of strong three-dimensional crease, high elastic recovery, long-lasting imitation beaver fur pile feeling, low linting, high anti-pilling and light warmth.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, specifically to a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] Imitation animal fur fabrics are a type of textile product made from synthetic fibers (such as polyester and acrylic) that mimic the fluffy, soft appearance and comfortable feel of natural animal fur (such as rabbit hair, wool, and cat hair) through processes such as weaving, napping, shearing, and calendering. These fabrics are cost-effective and have excellent processing properties, making them widely used in autumn and winter clothing, home textiles, toys, and automotive interiors. As consumers' demands for fashion aesthetics and wearing comfort continue to rise, the market not only requires imitation animal fur fabrics to have a realistic plush effect but also expects them to possess unique three-dimensional curls or pleats to cater to retro, casual, and personalized design trends.

[0003] To achieve the desired animal plush effect, researchers have conducted numerous explorations. For example, CN111041678B discloses a method for preparing a double-sided fleece fiber fabric. This method uses cationic polyester fully drawn yarn as the fleece yarn and CDP FDY yarn as the base yarn. The fabric undergoes processes such as warping, warp knitting, splitting, napping, calendering, combing, shearing, pelletizing, pre-setting, dyeing, secondary pelletizing, and setting to produce a double-sided fleece fabric with a full hand feel and good moisture absorption and warmth retention. This technology enhances the fabric's bulk and moisture wicking properties through the trilobal design of the fiber cross-section and its self-curling characteristics. However, its preparation process is cumbersome, and the final product has a smooth, flat surface lacking natural curl or wrinkled texture, making it difficult to meet the demands of fashion designs for a three-dimensional, retro style. CN111172666A discloses a method for preparing a rabbit fur-like fiber fabric. The method uses flat polyester yarn, amino-modified fullerene-doped polyester composite fiber, or modified alginate fiber as the pile and base yarns, knitting them on a double-needle bed warp knitting machine according to a specific needlework process. The fabric then undergoes steps such as splitting, combing, calendering, pre-setting, dyeing, softening, fabric conditioning, hot air treatment of the pile, napping, combing, calendering, and shearing to produce a rabbit fur-like fabric that is not prone to shedding and has a firm, upright pile. While this technology improves the firmness and fluffiness of the pile, it still fails to solve the problem of fabric curling or lack of pleats, and its complex fiber modification process increases production costs. CN106592085A discloses a method for preparing a rabbit fur-like fiber fabric. The method uses polyester ultra-dull flat yarn as the face yarn and polyester low-elasticity yarn as the middle and base yarns, knitting them on a double-needle bed warp knitting machine. The fabric is then processed through splitting, combing, calendering, pre-setting, dyeing, and finishing (including hot air treatment, napping, combing, calendering, and shearing). While this technology is relatively simple, it is still limited to achieving a smooth, plush surface effect. Furthermore, the fabric produced is prone to shedding and pilling during long-term use, and the conflict between elasticity and crimp stability remains unresolved. In summary, existing animal plush fabrics generally have the following defects: (1) The fabric surface is flat, without three-dimensional curls or pleats, and the style is monotonous; (2) It is difficult to balance elasticity and curl stability - adding spandex can improve elasticity but it is easy to cause curl rebound and is difficult to shape. Without spandex, the curl is easy to disappear; (3) The finishing process (especially napping, shearing, and ironing) can easily destroy the pre-formed curl or pleat structure, resulting in a weak three-dimensional effect, and accompanied by problems such as shedding and pilling; (4) Most of them use solid fibers, and the warmth retention depends on the thickness, lacking a lightweight and fluffy hollow structure.

[0004] Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a fabric and its preparation method that can simultaneously achieve strong three-dimensional curling / pleating, high elasticity recovery, long-lasting animal fur-like feel, low shedding, high anti-pilling, and lightweight warmth. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric and its preparation method.

[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric, the method comprising the following steps: (1) Prepare the base yarn and the pile yarn; (2) The base yarn and the pile yarn are woven on a double needle bed warp knitting machine equipped with six guide bars. The pile yarn and the base yarn are hooked together in a loop structure to obtain a double-layered greige fabric with pre-made pleated grooves. The fabric is then split to obtain a single-sided pile greige fabric. (3) The single-sided fleece fabric is loosely washed and then dyed to obtain the dyed fabric; (4) Pleating and shaping the dyed greige fabric to obtain pleated fabric; (5) The pleated fabric is finished with nap to obtain a strongly pleated imitation rabbit fur fabric. The base yarn is made of 140D spandex yarn and 75D / 72F cationic modified polyester yarn; the fleece yarn is made of 150D / 144F hollow bright polyester DTY.

[0007] Base yarn 140D spandex yarn refers to the fiber weighing 140 grams per 9000 meters at standard moisture regain. It is generally highly elastic and is known as high-elastic spandex yarn (specification: 140D). This component gives the fabric excellent elastic recovery ability, allowing the fabric to return to its original shape after wearing and washing.

[0008] 75D / 72F cationic modified polyester refers to polyester filament with a total fineness of 75 denier, composed of 72 monofilaments, and dyeable with cationic dyes due to the introduction of sulfonic acid groups through copolymerization. It is commercially available, such as cationic modified polyester (specification: 75D / 72f, semi-dull + high gloss, Shenghong 106). This raw material composition not only enriches the dyeing effect of the fabric, but also, due to the difference in shrinkage rate compared to ordinary polyester, produces a synergistic shrinkage effect during setting, further enhancing the three-dimensionality of the pleats.

[0009] Preferably, the mass ratio of the 140D spandex yarn to the 75D / 72F cationic modified polyester yarn is 2:(18-20).

[0010] Preferably, the preparation method of the base yarn includes: using 140D spandex yarn as the core yarn and cationic modified polyester yarn (75D / 72f) as the outer yarn, and then wrapping, twisting and alternating strong twisting to obtain the base yarn.

[0011] Preferably, the air network covering method includes: feeding the spandex yarn at a tension of 8 cN and the cationic modified polyester yarn at a tension of 25 cN parallel into the air network nozzle on a doubling machine, with compressed air pressure of 0.40-0.45 MPa (preferably 0.42 MPa), and doubling speed controlled at 380-420 m / min (preferably 400 m / min), so that the polyester yarn is evenly covering the spandex core yarn. This method can form a uniformly covered yarn with network points, ensuring that the spandex core yarn is evenly wrapped and avoiding the spandex being exposed during subsequent processing.

[0012] Preferably, the twisting can be performed in a composite twisting machine, and the conditions for the twisting preferably include: a final twist of 200-300 twists / meter (preferably 250 twists / meter) to obtain composite yarn.

[0013] Preferably, the alternating high twist can be performed on a double twister. The preferred conditions for the alternating high twist include: alternating winding of S-twist at 120-140 twists / meter (preferably 130 twists / meter) and Z-twist at 110-130 twists / meter (preferably 120 twists / meter), alternating once every 800-1200 meters (preferably once every 1000 meters). This alternating twist method allows adjacent yarn segments to have opposite torsional stresses, resulting in small, opposite displacements during subsequent heat treatment. This creates natural undulations on the fabric surface, laying the microstructural foundation for the pleated base.

[0014] Velvet yarn 150D / 144F hollow high-gloss polyester DTY refers to a loose, crimped polyester filament with a total fineness of 150 denier, composed of 144 monofilaments, each with a hollow structure, and a high-gloss surface. It is produced through stretching and texturing and is commercially available, such as polyester DTY hollow yarn (specifications: 150D / 144F, C-type hollow, lightweight, high-gloss). The hollow structure of this raw material not only reduces fiber weight but also creates a still air layer within the fiber, significantly improving the fabric's warmth retention. Simultaneously, the hollow yarn exhibits good rigidity, maintaining a stable pleat shape after crimping.

[0015] Preferably, the method for preparing the plush yarn includes: using a C-type hollow spinneret with a spinneret length-to-diameter ratio of 3.0 and a hollowness of 22%; spinning temperature of 290℃, side-blowing air velocity of 0.5m / s, and winding speed of 3000m / min to obtain hollow yarn (with stable hollowness and round cross-section); then warping on a warping machine (conventional method is acceptable) with a tension of 12cN and a speed of 300m / min to produce a plush yarn warp beam.

[0016] Greige fabric weaving Preferably, in step (2), the double needle bed warp knitting machine is equipped with six comb bars, which are GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, GB5 and GB6 from front to back of the machine.

[0017] Preferably, in step (2), the yarn threading method for weaving the greige fabric includes: GB1, GB2 Full-length pile yarn (150D / 144F hollow bright polyester DTY). GB3 and GB4 each use 50% of the base yarn (one is threaded and the other is not, and they are staggered). GB5 and GB6 each use 50% base yarn (to further reinforce the base structure).

[0018] Preferably, in step (2), the weaving process of the greige fabric combines intermittent weft insertion with local tucking, and utilizes the padding yarn digital combination of GB3 to GB6 to achieve W-shaped hooking between the face yarn and the back yarn. The preferred specific padding yarn number is as follows: GB1:1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / ; GB2:1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / (in the same direction as GB1, forming a double-layered velvet surface). GB3:1-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ; GB4:0-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / (forming a cross-loop with GB3); GB5:1-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / / ; GB6: 0-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / / .

[0019] Among them, the additional weft of GB5 and GB6 makes the base yarn and face yarn form a W-shaped winding structure on the reverse side of the fabric, which firmly locks the pile yarn in the base and achieves true non-shedding.

[0020] Preferably, in step (2), the weaving density of the fabric includes: a warp density of 20-24 needles / inch and a weft density of 15-20 needles / inch.

[0021] In step (2), after the fabric is woven, it is fed into a splitting machine and split symmetrically from the middle to obtain two independent single-sided fleece fabrics.

[0022] Loose wash Preferably, in step (3), the loose washing is performed using a loose rope washing machine, which allows the fabric to fully relax in a tension-free state to remove spinning oil, sizing agents, and stains from the transportation process. The loose treatment ensures that the fibers shrink freely in a wet state, avoiding fiber orientation fixation caused by tension, and preserving sufficient shrinkage potential for subsequent pleating and shaping.

[0023] Preferably, in step (3), the conditions for the loose water washing include: a bath ratio of 1:10-1:15 (preferably 1:12), a water temperature of 35-45℃ (preferably 40℃), and a treatment time of 15-25 minutes (preferably 20 minutes).

[0024] Preferably, in step (3), the working solution for the loose washing process contains 1.5-2.5 g / L (preferably 2 g / L) of neutral degreasing agent TF-115C and 0.5-1.5 g / L (preferably 1 g / L) of sodium carbonate. The aforementioned sodium carbonate provides a weakly alkaline environment, which helps to saponify and remove ester components from the oil, while softening the water and preventing calcium and magnesium ions from depositing on the fiber surface.

[0025] Preferably, in step (3), after the loose water washing is completed, the liquid is drained, and then the water is rinsed 2-3 times, with each rinsing time being 3-8 minutes (preferably 5 minutes), in order to thoroughly remove the residual oil and alkaline sodium carbonate.

[0026] In step (3), the washed fabric is placed in a loose state before entering the subsequent dyeing process to avoid squeezing and folding, which would cause wrinkles and premature shaping.

[0027] dyeing In step (3), dyeing can be carried out in accordance with conventional methods in the field as needed. After dyeing, drying is performed to obtain the dyed fabric. This invention has no special restrictions on this, so it will not be described in detail.

[0028] Pleating shaping Preferably, in step (4), the method for shaping the pleats includes: saturated steam treatment. During the treatment, the shrinkage of the warp spandex yarn can produce a pleated effect.

[0029] Preferably, the conditions for the saturated steam treatment include: a temperature of 100-110℃ (preferably 105℃), a steam pressure of 0.1-0.25MPa (preferably 0.15MPa), and a residence time of 5-20 minutes (preferably 8 minutes).

[0030] In this invention, the dyed fabric is subjected to saturated steam treatment in a completely relaxed, tension-free state. The high temperature and humidity environment causes sufficient thermal shrinkage of the spandex filaments in the base yarn and the spandex component in the polyester-spandex air-coated yarn of the fleece yarn. Simultaneously, the S-twist and Z-twist yarns in the base yarn exhibit differential shrinkage due to their different twist directions, and the hollow polyester yarn differs in shrinkage rate from ordinary polyester. The synergistic effect of these multiple shrinkage effects results in natural, uniform, and durable pleats along the warp direction. The moisture in the saturated steam has a plasticizing effect on the fibers, promoting the rearrangement of molecular chain segments and stress release, thus permanently fixing the pleat shape. After steaming, the pleat depth is consolidated and enhanced due to the synergistic shrinkage effect of the fibers, achieving a strong three-dimensional pleated texture without mechanical embossing.

[0031] Preferably, the fabric treated with steam is allowed to cool naturally at room temperature for 20-40 minutes (preferably 30 minutes) and then stacked on an A-frame without tension to fully release internal stress, resulting in a pleated fabric. The pleat depth of the pleated fabric is generally 0.80-0.95 mm.

[0032] velour finishing Pile finishing is a step in transforming pleated fabrics into finished fabrics with a texture similar to rabbit fur. Preferably, pile finishing includes light napping, air blowing, fixed-length shearing and gradient ironing, softening and setting processes.

[0033] Preferably, the light napping is performed using a 24-roller napping machine, with the napping roller being a steel wire curved needle roller, needle size 26#, and needle height 6mm. The equipment parameters are set as follows: napping roller speed 40-80rpm, fabric feed speed 5-15m / min, napping times 1 (forward), and fabric tension controlled at 4-6N.

[0034] The purpose of light napping is to activate the pile fibers by gently pulling the fiber ends of the pile yarn from the fabric surface, forming a preliminary pile layer. This light napping does not penetrate deep into the base pleats, thus avoiding damage to the existing three-dimensional pleats. After light napping, a fine layer of short pile appears on the fabric surface.

[0035] After lightly brushing, the fabric undergoes an air-blowing treatment. Preferably, the air-blowing treatment uses an industrial compressed air nozzle with an outlet air pressure of 0.2-0.3 MPa (preferably 0.25 MPa), a nozzle distance of 15-25 mm (preferably 20 mm) from the fabric surface, a blowing direction of vertically downwards directly onto the fabric surface, a treatment time of 6-12 seconds (preferably 8 seconds), and a nozzle spacing of approximately 150 mm.

[0036] Air blowing treatment uses high-pressure airflow to vertically impact the fabric surface, lifting and re-erecting the pile fibers that were compressed during the pleating process. Simultaneously, the airflow diffuses along both sides of the pleat grooves, making the pleats more relaxed and full, and further enhancing the retention of pleat depth. Furthermore, research has shown that the pile fibers lose their original fluffy, upright state after pleating, severely damaging the fabric's imitation rabbit fur texture, resulting in a flat, limp feel and lack of elasticity. The air blowing technique in this invention allows the fibers, which were compressed during the pleating process, to stand upright again under the action of high-pressure airflow, significantly restoring the pile's fluffiness and the imitation rabbit fur feel.

[0037] Preferably, the shearing length of the fixed-length shearing can be selected as needed. The sheared fabric is then subjected to gradient calendering, the conditions of which include: first calendering at 110°C for 3 seconds, then calendering at 130°C and 0.3MPa for 3 seconds, and finally calendering at 120°C and 0.2MPa for 3 seconds; the fabric tension is 15N, and the overfeed is 3%.

[0038] The gradient heat treatment in this invention can better improve the anti-pilling grade and give the velvet a soft luster. It is speculated that this is because the first stage at 110°C, a relatively low temperature (110°C), moderately softens and straightens the fiber surface; the second stage at a higher temperature (130°C) and pressure causes the fiber ends to plastically curl and shape; the third stage at 120°C, slightly lower than the main heat treatment temperature, plays an "annealing" role, eliminating residual stress inside the fiber, thereby avoiding excessive melting or surface hardening of the fiber, maintaining the fluffiness while improving anti-pilling performance.

[0039] Preferably, the softening finishing is performed using a padding method, and the finishing solution includes a softener and a smoothing agent, with the remainder being water.

[0040] Preferably, the softener is Tianyuan 886 softener, and the dosage is 15-25 g / L (preferably 20 g / L); the smoothing agent is Tianyuan 920 smoothing agent, and the dosage is 8-15 g / L (preferably 12 g / L).

[0041] Preferably, the rolling process is two dips and two rolls, with a roll residue of 65-75% (preferably 70%).

[0042] Preferably, the impregnated fabric is first pre-dried at 90-110°C (preferably 100°C) for 20-40 minutes (preferably 30 minutes) and then put into a setting machine for setting.

[0043] Preferably, the shaping conditions include: temperature 105-120℃ (preferably 110℃), overfeed 4-6% (preferably 5%), machine speed 20-30m / min (preferably 25m / min), and shaping the width to the finished product width.

[0044] Preferably, the shaped fabric is rolled up by an automatic edge-aligning winding device to obtain a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric.

[0045] Secondly, the present invention also provides a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric prepared by the preparation method described in the first aspect.

[0046] Through the above technical solution, the present invention has the following technical effects: The highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric prepared by this invention not only has an excellent wrinkle recovery rate, but also retains more than 85% of the wrinkle recovery angle after 50 washes. At the same time, the problem of pile flattening caused by mechanical pressing is solved through the coordinated process of various steps, achieving low shedding rate and high anti-pilling level, comprehensively meeting the market demand for strong three-dimensional wrinkles, high elasticity recovery, long-lasting pile feel, and lightweight warmth. Attached Figure Description

[0047] Figure 1 This is a photograph of the highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric prepared in Example 1. Detailed Implementation

[0048] The present invention will be further illustrated below with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these embodiments are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Experimental methods in the following embodiments, unless otherwise specified, are generally performed under conventional conditions or as recommended by the manufacturer.

[0049] Example 1 1. Yarn preparation Preparation of the base yarn: 140D spandex yarn and cationic modified polyester yarn (specification: 75D / 72f, semi-dull + bright, Shenghong 106) with a mass ratio of 2:18 are fed into the air network nozzle in parallel on a doubling machine with a set tension (8cN for spandex yarn and 25cN for cationic modified polyester yarn). The doubling speed is controlled at 400m / min and the compressed air pressure is 0.42MPa, so that the polyester yarn evenly covers the spandex core yarn, forming a uniformly dotted covered yarn. Then the covered yarn is fed into a composite twisting machine for doubling, and the final twist is set to 250 twists / meter to obtain the composite yarn. Then the composite yarn is strongly twisted on a doubling machine, with S twist 130 twists / meter and Z twist 120 twists / meter, and alternately wound (alternating once every 1000 meters) to obtain the base yarn.

[0050] Preparation of pile yarn: 150D / 144F hollow, bright polyester DTY was used with a C-type hollow spinneret, a spinneret length-to-diameter ratio of 3.0, a hollowness of 22%, a spinning temperature of 290℃, a side-blowing air velocity of 0.5m / s, and a winding speed of 3000m / min to obtain hollow yarn. Subsequently, it was warped on a warping machine according to conventional methods at a tension of 12cN and a speed of 300m / min to produce a pile yarn warp beam.

[0051] 2. Fabric weaving On a six-comb double-needle bed warp knitting machine, weaving is performed according to the following yarn threading and padding numbers (warp density 24 needles / inch, weft density 18 needles / inch) to obtain a double-layer greige fabric with a single-sided pile greige fabric cut in half.

[0052] From front to back of the machine, the numbers are GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, GB5, and GB6.

[0053] How to thread the gauze: GB1, GB2 Full-length pile yarn (150D / 144F hollow bright polyester DTY). GB3 and GB4 each use 50% of the base yarn (one is threaded and the other is not, and they are staggered). GB5 and GB6 each use 50% base yarn (to further reinforce the base structure).

[0054] The stitching process combines interval weft insertion with partial tucking, and utilizes the GB3~GB6 digital padding technology to achieve a W-shaped connection between the face yarn and the base yarn.

[0055] The specific padding yarn number is as follows: GB1:1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / ; GB2:1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / (in the same direction as GB1, forming a double-layered velvet surface). GB3:1-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / 0-0 / / ; GB4:0-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / 1-0 / / (forming a cross-loop with GB3); GB5:1-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / / ; GB6: 0-0 / 1-0 / 0-0 / 1-0 / / ; After weaving, a double-layered greige fabric is obtained. The greige fabric is then fed into a splitting machine and symmetrically split in the middle to obtain two independent single-sided pile greige fabrics.

[0056] 3. Pretreatment and staining The above-mentioned single-sided fleece fabric was subjected to a loose washing process using a loose rope washing machine with a liquor ratio of 1:12 and a water temperature of 40℃. 2 g / L of neutral degreasing agent TF-115C and 1 g / L of sodium carbonate were added, and the machine was run for 20 minutes. After washing, the liquid was drained, and the fabric was rinsed twice with water, 5 minutes each time. The washed fabric was then loosely fed into an airflow dyeing machine for dyeing and drying to obtain the dyed fabric.

[0057] 4. Strong wrinkle setting The wrinkled effect is created by shrinking the warp spandex filaments: The dyed greige fabric is subjected to wet heat treatment in a relaxed state. A high-temperature and high-pressure steam chamber is used, in which the greige fabric is fed in a tension-free, flat-width state. The temperature is controlled at 105℃ and the steam pressure at 0.15MPa. The fabric is left in the chamber for 8 minutes, then removed and allowed to cool naturally at room temperature for 30 minutes. Finally, it is stacked on an A-frame without tension to fully release the internal stress, resulting in a wrinkled fabric.

[0058] 5. Slip finishing Light napping: The pleated fabric is lightly napped using a 24-roll napping machine. The napping roller is a steel wire curved needle roller with a needle size of 26# and a needle height of 6mm. The equipment parameters are set as follows: napping roller speed 50rpm, fabric speed 8m / min, napping times 1 (forward), and fabric tension controlled at 5N.

[0059] Air blowing: The fabric after light napping is subjected to air blowing treatment. The conditions for air blowing treatment include: nozzle outlet air pressure of about 0.25MPa, nozzle distance from the fabric surface of 20mm, blowing direction of vertical downwards directly onto the fabric surface, treatment time of 8 seconds, and nozzle spacing of about 150mm.

[0060] Fixed-length shearing and calendering: The air-blown fabric is sheared to a fixed length and then subjected to gradient calendering treatment. First, it is calendered at 110℃ for 3 seconds, then at 130℃ and 0.3MPa for 3 seconds, and finally at 120℃ and 0.2MPa for 3 seconds; the fabric tension is 15N and the overfeed is 3%.

[0061] Softening and finishing: The calendered fabric is dipped and rubbed twice in the finishing solution (Tianyuan 886 softener 20g / L, Tianyuan 920 smoother 12g / L, the remainder is water), with a 70% rub-off rate; then it is pre-dried at 100℃ for 30 minutes and then put into the finishing machine for finishing (temperature 110℃, overfeed 5%, machine speed 25m / min) to obtain a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric.

[0062] A photograph of the highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric prepared in Example 1 is shown below. Figure 1 As shown.

[0063] Example 2 The method of Example 1 differs in that the conditions for air blowing treatment include: nozzle outlet air pressure of about 0.1 MPa, nozzle distance from fabric surface of 25 mm, air blowing direction of vertical downward blowing directly onto fabric surface, treatment time of 6 seconds, and nozzle spacing of about 150 mm.

[0064] Example 3 The method of Example 1 differs in that the conditions for air blowing treatment include: nozzle outlet air pressure of about 0.5 MPa, nozzle distance from fabric surface of 15 mm, air blowing direction of vertical downward blowing directly onto fabric surface, treatment time of 15 seconds, and nozzle spacing of about 150 mm.

[0065] Example 4 The method of Example 1 differs in that, in the fixed-length shearing and calendering process, the air-blown fabric is sheared to a fixed length and then subjected to gradient calendering, which is performed at 130°C for 10 seconds with a fabric tension of 15N and an overfeed of 3%.

[0066] Example 5 The method of Example 1 differs in that, in the fixed-length shearing and calendering, the air-blown fabric is sheared to a fixed length, and the fabric after fixed-length shearing is calendered at 110°C for 4 seconds and at 125°C and 0.2MPa for 5 seconds; the fabric tension is 15N and the overfeed is 3%.

[0067] Example 6 The method is the same as in Example 1, except that the mass ratio of 140D spandex yarn to cationic modified polyester yarn is 2:15.

[0068] Example 7 The method is the same as in Example 1, except that the mass ratio of 140D spandex yarn to cationic modified polyester yarn is 2:22.

[0069] Comparative Example 1 The method of Example 1 differs in that there is no air blowing step; after lightly pulling the fur, it directly proceeds to fixed-length trimming, ironing, softening, and shaping.

[0070] Comparative Example 2 The method of Example 1 differs in that there is no strong wrinkle setting step, and the dyed greige fabric goes directly into the napping finishing process.

[0071] Performance testing 1. Elongation at break test: Refer to GB / T 3923.1-2013, strip method, spacing 100mm, speed 100mm / min, measured in the warp direction.

[0072] 2. Wrinkle recovery rate: The wrinkle recovery rate is calculated after testing the wrinkle recovery angle (°) according to AATCC 66-2017. The fabric is folded in half and then compressed (500g×5min). After releasing the pressure for 5min, the wrinkle recovery angle (°) is measured. The wrinkle recovery rate = wrinkle recovery angle (°) / 180°×100%, measured in the warp direction.

[0073] 3. Wrinkle recovery angle retention rate after 30 washes: The wrinkle recovery angle was measured according to AATCC 66-2017 standard. The washing procedure followed GB / T 8629-2017, using method 5A, with 30 washing cycles, followed by hanging drying (method A). The fabric needed to be conditioned under standard atmospheric conditions for at least 24 hours before testing. Wrinkle recovery angle retention rate = (wrinkle recovery angle after washing / original wrinkle recovery angle) × 100%, measured in the warp direction.

[0074] 4. Shedding rate test: Refer to GB / T 21196.3-2007 (Martindale method), fix the fabric sample on the grinding head, rub it 2000 times under a pressure of 9 kPa, weigh the mass difference before and after rubbing, divide it by the original mass, and express it as a percentage as the shedding rate (i.e., mass loss rate).

[0075] 5. Anti-pilling grade: Referring to the circular trajectory method in GB / T 4802.1-2008, a pilling tester is used to rub the sample 50 times under a pressure of 490cN, and the grade is compared with the standard sample (sample before testing). Evaluation criteria: Grade 5, no surface change, no fuzzing or pilling; Grade 4, slight fuzzing and / or slight pilling; Grade 3, moderate fuzzing and / or moderate pilling, with balls of different sizes and densities covering part of the sample surface; Grade 2, obvious fuzzing and / or pilling, with balls of different sizes and densities covering most of the sample surface; Grade 1, severe fuzzing and / or pilling, with balls of different sizes and densities covering the entire sample surface.

[0076] The performance test results are shown in Table 1.

[0077] Table 1 Performance Test Results

[0078] As can be seen from the above embodiments and comparative examples, the fabric of the present invention has excellent properties such as strong three-dimensional wrinkles, high elasticity recovery, long-lasting imitation rabbit fur feel, low shedding, high anti-pilling and lightweight warmth.

[0079] The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above. However, the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments. Within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, various simple modifications can be made to the technical solution of the present invention, and these simple modifications all fall within the protection scope of the present invention. Furthermore, various different embodiments of the present invention can be arbitrarily combined, as long as they do not violate the spirit of the present invention, they should also be considered as the content disclosed by the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for preparing a highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric, characterized in that, The preparation method includes the following steps: (1) Prepare the base yarn and the pile yarn; (2) The base yarn and the pile yarn are woven on a double needle bed warp knitting machine equipped with six guide bars. The pile yarn and the base yarn are hooked together in a loop structure to obtain a double-layered greige fabric with pre-made pleated grooves. The fabric is then split to obtain a single-sided pile greige fabric. (3) The single-sided fleece fabric is loosely washed and then dyed to obtain the dyed fabric; (4) Pleating and shaping the dyed greige fabric to obtain pleated fabric; (5) The pleated fabric is finished with nap to obtain a strongly pleated imitation rabbit fur fabric. The base yarn is made of 140D spandex yarn and 75D / 72F cationic modified polyester yarn; the fleece yarn is made of 150D / 144F hollow bright polyester DTY.

2. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The mass ratio of the 140D spandex yarn and the 75D / 72F cationic modified polyester yarn is 2:(18-20). The method for preparing the base yarn includes: using 140D spandex yarn as the core yarn and cationic modified polyester yarn (75D / 72f) as the sheath yarn, and then covering it with an air network, twisting it, and alternating strong twisting to obtain the base yarn.

3. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, A C-type hollow spinneret is used with a spinneret length-to-diameter ratio of 3.0 and a hollowness of 22%. The spinning temperature is 290℃, the side blowing speed is 0.5m / s, and the winding speed is 3000m / min to produce hollow yarn (with stable hollowness and round cross-section). The yarn is then warped on a warping machine.

4. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The double needle bed warp knitting machine is equipped with six guide bars, which are GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, GB5, and GB6 from front to back of the machine. The yarn threading method for the fabric weaving includes: GB1 and GB2 are fully threaded with pile yarn; GB3 and GB4 are each threaded with 50% base yarn; GB5 and GB6 are each threaded with 50% base yarn.

5. The preparation method according to claim 4, characterized in that... By combining intermittent weft insertion with partial tucking, and utilizing the digital matching of GB3 to GB6 padding yarns, a W-shaped connection between the face yarn and the back yarn is achieved.

6. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step (3), the conditions for the loose water washing include: a bath ratio of 1:10-1:15, a water temperature of 35-45℃, and a treatment time of 15-25 minutes.

7. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The method for shaping the pleats includes: saturated steam treatment; The conditions for the saturated steam treatment include: a temperature of 100-110℃, a steam pressure of 0.1-0.25MPa, and a residence time of 5-20 minutes.

8. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The finishing process includes light napping, air blowing, fixed-length shearing and gradient heat treatment, softening and shaping. The air blowing treatment uses an industrial compressed air nozzle with an outlet air pressure of 0.2-0.3MPa, a nozzle distance of 15-25mm from the fabric surface, and the air blowing direction is vertically downwards directly onto the fabric surface. The treatment time is 6-12 seconds, and the nozzle spacing is 150mm.

9. The preparation method according to claim 8, characterized in that, The conditions for gradient calendering include: first calendering at 110℃ for 3 seconds, then calendering at 130℃ and 0.3MPa for 3 seconds, and finally calendering at 120℃ and 0.2MPa for 3 seconds; fabric tension 15N, overfeed 3%.

10. A highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric, characterized in that, It is prepared by the method for preparing highly wrinkled imitation rabbit fur fabric according to any one of claims 1-9.

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