Cosmetic composition comprising bilberry leaf extract

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is provided comprising a bilberry seed extract and an oily cosmetic base.

Description

[0001] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions comprising blueberry seed extract and an oily cosmetic base.

[0002] The desire to appear attractive is naturally ingrained in modern consumers. Even though the ideal of attractiveness changes over time, it is generally accepted that the condition and appearance of our skin and hair are significant contributors to an attractive appearance.

[0003] Today's consumers are offered a wide variety of cosmetics for skincare. These products are typically in the form of creams and lotions, containing water to moisturize the skin and fats and lipids to re-lubricate it, and their effects are mostly exerted on the outermost layer of the skin. A wide variety of cosmetic active ingredients are available on the market for skincare, offering benefits such as moisturizing or hydrating, anti-aging, UV protection, soothing, brightening, or darkening.

[0004] Skin represents our natural barrier against external threats. It possesses the unique characteristic of being "permeable" to beneficial substances and "impermeable" to harmful ones, preventing moisture loss while also protecting against chemical and mechanical damage and pathogenic microorganisms. This barrier function is attributed to its complex structure; skin is primarily composed of lipids (mainly ceramides) and keratinocytes immersed in a lipid matrix. The production of these lipids (mainly ceramides) requires polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), and the keratinocytes are the result of terminal differentiation of keratinocytes.

[0005] If the skin's barrier function is impaired, excessive moisture loss can occur, potentially leading to dry skin, itching, eczema, and dermatitis, resulting in unhealthy skin that has lost its primary defense function. To restore the skin barrier, it is essential to supply the skin with necessary PUFAs (omega-3 fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid and omega-6 fatty acids such as linoleic acid) to allow for the formation of ceramides, promote keratinocyte differentiation to form keratinocytes, and activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) to restore homeostasis.

[0006] It was also reported that PUFAs play a role in reducing hair fiber permeability, thereby protecting hair structure.

[0007] Blueberries or European blueberries Vaccinium myrtillus L. Bilberries are a type of small shrub that grows in the hilly areas and under thickets of Central and Northern Europe. Unlike blueberries, their fruit is produced individually, not in clusters, and must be hand-picked because they are delicate and easily damaged by machinery. Bilberries are used to extract anthocyanins from the pulp and peel.

[0008] The tiny seeds of the berry contain up to 20% linoleic acid (LA) and alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) in an optimal ratio. These classes of lipids, which are very important to our skin, are obtained through the production of Omegablue. TM Extracted via supercritical CO2 extraction during the regeneration process of cosmetic active ingredients developed by Givaudan.

[0009] Omegablue TM It is an upgraded and regenerated active ingredient derived from blueberry seeds, containing essential fatty acids crucial for the formation of our skin barrier, such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, also known as PUFAs (polyunsaturated fatty acids). Blueberry seeds are a byproduct of anthocyanin extraction from the peel and pulp.

[0010] When applied to the skin as a cosmetic formulation, Omegablue TM It improves hydration and skin barrier function. Because it contains essential PUFAs associated with the anti-inflammatory cascade, it is also effective in soothing attacked skin.

[0011] More specifically, Omegablue TM It has been shown to increase keratinocyte proliferation by 44% in vitro, thus mimicking the potential of EGF (epidermal growth factor) and providing a basis for improving skin barrier function. Furthermore, it improved PPAR-α activation by up to 26-fold, demonstrating its ability to stimulate keratinocyte differentiation from the perspective of improving skin barrier function. Clinical trials have also shown that it can completely restore skin barrier function after surfactant-induced depletion.

[0012] There are specific skin conditions in which the skin barrier function is impaired, leading to discomfort such as itching and patchy skin: psoriasis is a specific skin condition in which the skin cell cycle is highly accelerated, resulting in itchy, patchy skin; while eczema is a specific skin disease characterized by redness and itching of the skin. Omegablue TM Studies have shown a 27% reduction in skin erythema severity and a 28% reduction in scaling in psoriasis cases, and a 37.5% reduction in skin erythema severity and a 42.8% reduction in pruritus severity in eczema cases. Furthermore, PASI (Psoriasis Area and Severity Score) and EASI (Eczema Area and Severity Score) showed significant improvements of 27% and 35%, respectively.

[0013] Omega blue in hair TM It has an anti-brittleness effect and reduces the permeability of hair fibers.

[0014] The recommended dosage of blueberry seed extract in cosmetic compositions is 2-10%. It is an oily, dark green substance and is generally expected to be oil-soluble.

[0015] However, in oil-based cosmetic compositions, precipitation tends to form during prolonged storage and / or at lower temperatures, resulting in turbidity. This poses a significant problem because cosmetic compositions tend to be stored at lower temperatures, especially over extended periods.

[0016] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic composition comprising blueberry seed extract and an oily cosmetic base, said composition being completely stable and remaining homogeneous and clear even after prolonged storage and / or storage at reduced temperatures.

[0017] The cosmetic composition, its preparation method, and its application in cosmetics of the present invention have solved this problem.

[0018] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic active ingredient and an oily cosmetic base, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient comprises or is composed of blueberry seed extract, and wherein the oily cosmetic base comprises or is composed of a moisturizer, an emulsifier, or a mixture of one or more moisturizers and one or more emulsifiers.

[0019] The one or more emollients are selected from polar ester emollients, polar ether emollients, polar alcohol emollients, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The one or more emulsifiers are selected from:

[0021] (a) A dimerized pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, comprising a dimerized pentaerythritol moiety having 3-6 C18 fatty acid moieties covalently linked to the dimerized pentaerythritol moiety.

[0022] (b) A fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, comprising a polyglycerol backbone having 2-10 polyglycerol units, wherein 1-10 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyglycerol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties, and wherein the emulsifier has an HLB value of about 4 to about 8, provided that the emulsifier is neither polyglycerol-2-dipolyhydroxystearate nor polyglycerol-3-diisostearate.

[0023] (c) A fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, comprising a polyethylene glycol backbone having 4-10 polyethylene glycol units, wherein one or two fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyethylene glycol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties.

[0024] (d) Polysorbate fatty acid esters comprising an ethoxylated sorbitol backbone having 20 ethoxylated sorbitol units, wherein a C18 fatty acid moiety is covalently linked to the ethoxylated sorbitol backbone.

[0025] (e) A sorbitan fatty acid ester comprising a sorbitan moiety, wherein one or two C18 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the sorbitan moiety.

[0026] (f) Tris(laurate-4) phosphate,

[0027] (g) Lauryl alcohol polyether-4, and

[0028] (h) A mixture of one or more of the emulsifiers (a) to (g).

[0029] Surprisingly, it has been found that by including emollients and / or emulsifiers as defined above in cosmetic compositions, the uniform and clear appearance of compositions containing blueberry seed oil can be maintained over extended periods, even at lower temperatures, avoiding sedimentation or turbidity. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are liquid at room temperature.

[0030] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the method comprising the following steps:

[0031] (i) Heating the emollient and / or emulsifier to a temperature of about 50°C to about 80°C;

[0032] (ii) Add the aforementioned cosmetic active ingredient; and

[0033] (iii) Mix to obtain the cosmetic composition.

[0034] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method for preventing skin photoaging, stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, improving the skin barrier, reducing skin erythema and / or relieving itching symptoms by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0035] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides the use of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention in preventing skin photoaging, stimulating keratinocyte proliferation, improving the skin barrier, reducing skin erythema and / or relieving itching symptoms.

[0036] To avoid doubt, unless the context otherwise indicates, any preferred options, particular features, etc. indicated with respect to a given aspect, feature, or parameter of the invention shall be deemed to have been disclosed in combination with any and all other preferred options, particular features, etc. indicated with respect to the same or other aspects, features, and parameters of the invention.

[0037] For the avoidance of doubt, in this specification, when we use the terms “comprising” or “comprises”, we mean that the described composition, antioxidant, or product must contain the listed ingredients, but may optionally contain additional ingredients. When we use the terms “consisting essentially of” or “consists essentially of”, we mean that the described composition must contain the listed ingredients and may also contain small amounts (e.g., up to 5% by weight, or up to 1% or 0.1% by weight) of other ingredients, provided that any other ingredients do not affect the essential properties of the composition. When we use the terms “consisting of” or “consists of”, we mean that the described composition must contain only the listed ingredients. Whenever we use the terms “comprising” or “consisting of”, “consisting essentially of” is also included, even if not explicitly stated.

[0038] Throughout the application, the terms “comprise”, “comprises”, or “comprising” can be replaced with “consist”, “consisting”, or “consisting”.

[0039] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a cosmetic active ingredient and an oil-based cosmetic base. In other words, the present invention provides an oil-based cosmetic composition.

[0040] The cosmetic composition may consist essentially of or be composed of cosmetic active ingredients and an oil-based cosmetic base.

[0041] The cosmetic active ingredient comprises, is substantially composed of, or is composed of bilberry seed extract. Bilberry seed extract is sometimes also referred to as "bilberry seed oil," "European bilberry seed extract," or "European bilberry seed oil," and these expressions are used interchangeably throughout this disclosure. The INCI name is European bilberry seed oil.

[0042] The blueberry seed extract typically contains more than 80 wt% fatty acids relative to its total weight. More specifically, it typically contains about 14-24 wt% oleic acid, about 27-37 wt% linoleic acid, and about 25-35 wt% alpha-linolenic acid. Overall, it typically contains more than 50 wt% polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0043] In one embodiment, the blueberry seed extract is a supercritical CO2 extract. In other words, the blueberry seed extract can be obtained by extracting blueberry seeds using supercritical CO2.

[0044] Optionally, or in addition to blueberry seed extract, the cosmetic active ingredient used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also comprise one or more, substantially composed of, or comprise of, the oily components of blueberry seed extract, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Specifically, the cosmetic active ingredient used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may comprise about 14-24 wt% oleic acid, about 27-37 wt% linoleic acid, and about 25-35 wt% α-linolenic acid, regardless of their source.

[0045] The oily cosmetic base contains emollients, emulsifiers, or a mixture of one or more emollients and one or more emulsifiers, or is composed of the same.

[0046] Optionally, the oily cosmetic base may contain additional components, such as antioxidants and / or UV filters.

[0047] The one or more emollients are selected from polar ester emollients, polar ether emollients, polar alcohol emollients, and mixtures thereof. Therefore, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may comprise a single polar emollient, a mixture of several polar emollients, or a mixture of one or more polar emollients and one or more emulsifiers as defined in the claims, or consist thereof.

[0048] Emollients are commonly used in personal care formulations. The word emollient comes from the Latin word "mollis" or "molle," meaning soft, supple, and smooth. Emollients are generally defined as ingredients that impart a smooth, soft, or lubricating feel. A range of chemical structures used in emollients are generally known, such as esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, ethers, siloxanes, and hydrocarbons. However, in the context of this invention, only polar ester emollients, polar ether emollients, and polar alcohol emollients have been found to be useful.

[0049] "Polarity" refers to the physical property of a compound. The polarity of a bond arises from the interaction of bonds between molecules and atoms with different electronegativity. Essentially, polarity stems from the non-uniformity of net charge distribution. The greater the non-uniformity, the stronger the polarity; a perfectly uniform distribution results in no polarity. The dipole moment is the most commonly used indicator of molecular polarity; polar molecules possess a total dipole moment, which is caused by the different electronegativity of the atoms present in the molecule. Polar solvents dissolve polar substances better, while nonpolar solvents dissolve nonpolar substances better.

[0050] "Ester emollients" refers to emollients that contain one or more ester moieties.

[0051] "Ether emollient" means that the emollient contains one or more ether fractions.

[0052] "Alcohol-based emollients" refer to emollients that contain one or more alcohol moieties.

[0053] Polar emollients may also contain more than one of these functional groups, such as ester and ether groups, or ester and alcohol groups, or ether and alcohol groups, or all three of them. In each case, they may also contain more than one of the corresponding type of functional group.

[0054] The one or more emulsifiers are selected from emulsifiers (a) to (h) as defined above.

[0055] An emulsifier, or emulsifying agent, is a compound or substance that acts as a stabilizer for an emulsion, preventing normally unmixed liquids from separating. The word originates from a Latin word meaning "milking," because milk is an emulsion of water and fat. Another word for emulsifier is emulsifier (emulgent).

[0056] According to (a), the emulsifier is a dimeric pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, which is composed of a dimeric pentaerythritol moiety, wherein 3-6 C18 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the dimeric pentaerythritol moiety. Dimeric pentaerythritol (2,2,2',2'-tetra(hydroxymethyl)-3,3'-oxydiprop-1-ol) has the following chemical structure:

[0057]

[0058] In the dimeric pentaerythritol fatty acid esters used in this invention, three, four, five, or six alcohol groups of the dimeric pentaerythritol have been derivatized to form an ester moiety with the C18 fatty acid.

[0059] As used throughout this disclosure, the term "C18 fatty acid" refers to a carboxylic acid containing a total of 18 carbon atoms. The C18 fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated, meaning it can contain 0 (saturated), 1, 2, 3, or 4 carbon-carbon double bonds (unsaturated), and if present, these carbon-carbon double bonds can be independently E or Z. Furthermore, the C18 fatty acid can be straight-chain or branched, and it can optionally contain one or more hydroxyl (-OH) substituents attached to one of the carbon atoms. If more than one C18 fatty acid is present in a molecule, these C18 fatty acids can be all identical or there can be two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, or ten different C18 fatty acids; preferably, all C18 fatty acids within a molecule are identical.

[0060] Examples of C18 fatty acids that can be used in embodiments of the present invention include stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, trans-oleic acid, isoleic acid, linoleic acid, trans-linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearatetraenoic acid, and / or hydroxystearic acid. Preferred C18 fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and / or α-linolenic acid.

[0061] The C18 fatty acids used in this invention can also form part of an oil, such as olive oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip seed oil, almond oil, or avocado oil.

[0062] According to (b), the emulsifier is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester comprising a polyglycerol backbone having 2-10 polyglycerol units, wherein 1-10 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyglycerol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties, and wherein the emulsifier has an HLB value of about 4 to about 8. These polyglycerol fatty acid esters have the following general chemical structures:

[0063]

[0064] Where n is selected from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9; each R is H or C=OR' independently of the other R groups, and R' is the C18 carbon chain of a C18 fatty acid.

[0065] The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of an emulsifier is a measure of its degree of hydrophilicity or lipophilicity, determined by calculating the percentage of the molecular weight of the hydrophilic and lipophilic portions of the surfactant molecule, as described by Griffin in 1949 and 1954. In other words, the HLB value is an indication of the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic portions of the molecule.

[0066] As described in 1954, the Griffin method for nonionic surfactants (Griffin, William C. (1954), "Calculation of HLB Values ​​of Non-Ionic Surfactants") Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists The work is as follows: , 5 (4): 249-5)

[0067]

[0068] Where M HLBis the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the molecule, and M is the molecular mass of the entire molecule, giving results in the range of 0 to 20. An HLB value of 0 corresponds to a completely lipophilic (i.e., hydrophobic) molecule, while a value of 20 corresponds to a completely hydrophilic (i.e., lipophobic) molecule.

[0069] The HLB values ​​of some of the emulsifiers mentioned in this disclosure can be found in the following examples section.

[0070] According to (c), the emulsifier is a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol (PEG), consisting of a polyethylene glycol backbone having 4-10 polyethylene glycol units, wherein one or two fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyethylene glycol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties. These PEG fatty acid esters have the following general chemical structure:

[0071]

[0072] Where m is selected from 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10; and R1 and R2 are independently H or C=OR', where R' is the C18 carbon chain of a C18 fatty acid.

[0073] According to (d), the emulsifier is a polysorbate fatty acid ester composed of an ethoxylated sorbitol backbone having 20 ethoxylated sorbitol units, wherein a C18 fatty acid moiety is covalently linked to the ethoxylated sorbitol backbone. These polysorbate fatty acid esters have the following general chemical structure:

[0074]

[0075] Where a, b, c, and d are integers and the sum of a+b+c+d is 20; and one of R3, R4, R5, and R6 is C=OR', where R' is the C18 carbon chain of a C18 fatty acid, and the other three are H. Preferably, R6 is C=OR'.

[0076] According to (e), the emulsifier is a sorbitan fatty acid ester composed of a sorbitan moiety covalently linked to one or two C18 fatty acid moieties. These sorbitan fatty acid esters have the following general chemical structure:

[0077]

[0078] R7 stands for C=OR', and R' is the C18 carbon chain of a C18 fatty acid.

[0079] According to (f), the emulsifier is tris(laurene-4) phosphate. Tris(laurene-4) phosphate has the following chemical structure:

[0080]

[0081] Where e, f, and g are integers, and the sum of e + f + g is 4.

[0082] According to (g), the emulsifier is lauryl ether-4. Lauryl ether-4 has the following chemical structure:

[0083]

[0084] According to (h), the emulsifier is one or more of emulsifiers (a) to (g). Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain more than one emulsifier from one of groups (a) to (g), or more than one emulsifier from each of groups (a) to (g), or it may also contain each of one or more emulsifiers from groups (a) to (g) and more than one emulsifier from one or more of groups (a) to (g), or more than one emulsifier from more than one of groups (a) to (g).

[0085] Surprisingly, it has been found that by including one or more of the above-mentioned emollients and / or emulsifiers in a cosmetic composition, a homogeneous blueberry seed extract formulation can be obtained and turbidity and precipitation can be avoided.

[0086] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises blueberry seed extract at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 3 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%. These concentrations are high enough to ensure the desired cosmetic activity while avoiding disadvantages such as reduced stability, discoloration, interference from other ingredients, higher costs, and undesirable side effects during application.

[0087] Throughout this disclosure, unless otherwise stated, concentrations are generally expressed as a weight percentage (wt%) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0088] As used herein, the term “about”, for example when referring to measurable values ​​(such as the weight of a particular component in a composition), means a variation of ±20%, ±10%, ±5%, ±1%, ±0.5%, or particularly ±0.1% of a specified amount.

[0089] To achieve optimal dissolution of the blueberry seed extract, it may be beneficial to select a specific ratio between the blueberry seed extract and the emollient and / or emulsifier.

[0090] In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the blueberry seed extract to the one or more emollients is about 1:1 to about 1:99, more preferably about 1:2 to about 1:50, still more preferably about 1:5 to about 1:30, and most preferably about 1:10 to about 1:20.

[0091] In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the blueberry seed extract to the one or more emulsifiers is about 20:1 to about 1:10, more preferably about 15:1 to about 1:5, still more preferably about 10:1 to about 1:1, and most preferably about 5:1 to about 2:1.

[0092] It has been found that these ratios are particularly favorable.

[0093] Those skilled in the art will understand that these ratios can vary slightly depending on the specific emollients and / or emulsifiers used. Furthermore, if a combination is used, the ratios may also need to be adjusted.

[0094] Advantageously, the emollient and / or emulsifier is homogeneous and liquid or paste-like at room temperature and standard pressure.

[0095] In one embodiment, the one or more emollients are selected from octyl dodecyl lactate, isosorbide dimethyl ether, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), diethylhexyl carbonate, hexyldecyl alcohol, octyl dodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These emollients have been found to be particularly effective for this purpose.

[0096] In one embodiment, the one or more emulsifiers are selected from pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate, pentaerythritol pentaisostearate, pentaerythritol hexaisostearate, pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 trioleate, polyglycerol-10 nonaisostearate, polyglycerol-10 decaisostearate, olive oil PEG-7 ester, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, tris(laurene-4) phosphate, lauryl ether-4, and mixtures thereof. Pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate and polyglycerol-5 trioleate have been found to be particularly useful for forming homogeneous formulations of blueberry seed extract.

[0097] Optionally or additionally, in the above emulsifiers, one or more C18 fatty acid substituents may be replaced by another C18 fatty acid substituent.

[0098] As is well known to those skilled in the art, sesquistearate is a mixture of monostearate and distearate; polysorbate 60 corresponds to polyoxyethylene (20) dehydrated sorbitan monostearate or 60; and polysorbate 80 corresponds to polyoxyethylene (20) dehydrated sorbitan monooleate or Tween® 80; for example, dimeric pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate, traded under the name SALACOS WO-6 (KowaEurope GmbH); olive oil typically contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and α-linolenic acid.

[0099] Alternatives to olive oil PEG-7 esters include, but are not limited to, triisostearin PEG-6 ester, olive oil PEG-6 ester, and olive oil PEG-8 ester; as well as PEG-6, PEG-7, and PEG-8 esters of pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, almond oil or sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip seed oil, almond oil, and avocado oil.

[0100] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is homogeneous, particularly at room temperature and standard pressure. More preferably, it is also homogeneous under reduced pressure and / or after freezing and thawing.

[0101] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a liquid or paste, particularly at room temperature and standard pressure. More preferably, it is also a liquid or paste under reduced pressure (e.g., at about 4°C) and / or after freezing and thawing.

[0102] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a skin care composition. It can be formulated into any form suitable for topical or transdermal application to the skin. Such formulations include, but are not limited to, creams, multiple emulsions, such as, but not limited to, oil-in-water and / or siloxane emulsions, water-in-oil and / or siloxane emulsions, water / oil / water or water / siloxane / water emulsions and oil / water / oil or siloxane / water / siloxane emulsions, microemulsions, emulsions and / or solutions, liquid crystals, anhydrous compositions, dispersions, oils, milks, butters, balms, foams, lotions, gels, creams, solutions, liniments, serums, masks, essences, ointments, mousses, hair oils, and pastes, including leave-in and rinse-off formulations.

[0103] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may optionally contain one or more other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions, such as stabilizers, antioxidants, moisturizers, humectants, skin care agents, conditioning agents, colorants, skin tone agents, anti-aging agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antimicrobial agents, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, fragrances, and combinations thereof.

[0104] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises decanoic acid / caprylic acid triglycerides at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 98 wt%, more preferably about 1 wt% to about 95 wt%, still more preferably about 20 wt% to about 90 wt%, and most preferably about 70 wt%. As is known in the art, decanoic acid / caprylic acid triglycerides correspond to a mixture of decanoic acid triglycerides and caprylic acid triglycerides.

[0105] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises an antioxidant, more preferably a natural antioxidant, at a concentration of about 0.001 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.3%.

[0106] In one embodiment, the antioxidant is selected from dimethylmethoxybenzodihydropyranol, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid), octadecyl di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), and rosemary ( Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract. In particular, dimethylmethoxybenzodihydropyranol was found to be highly effective.

[0107] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain other cosmetic active substances.

[0108] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises one or more ingredients selected from squalene, bisabolol, jojoba (Squalene, Bisabolol, jojoba) Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil and its mixtures.

[0109] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a lipophilic composition.

[0110] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains less than 70 wt% water, more preferably less than 30 wt% water, still more preferably less than 10 wt% water, and most preferably contains no water or is substantially water-free.

[0111] To achieve optimal results, appropriate concentrations of emollients and / or emulsifiers should be selected. As a technician will understand, if only one emollient or emulsifier is used, a higher concentration is generally required, while if several emollients and / or emulsifiers are used, lower concentrations of each will be appropriate.

[0112] For example, if only one emollient or one emulsifier is used, the appropriate concentration can be as described in the following implementation scheme:

[0113] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises octyl dodecyl lactate at a concentration of about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%.

[0114] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises isosorbide dimethyl ether at a concentration of about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%.

[0115] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises isostearyl isostearate at a concentration of about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably about 10 wt% to about 90 wt%, still more preferably about 20 wt% to about 50 wt%, and most preferably about 32 wt%.

[0116] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises isononyl isononanoate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0117] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dioctyl carbonate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0118] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises neopentyl glycol didecanoate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0119] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises triglyceride (ethylhexanoate) at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0120] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises diethylhexyl carbonate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0121] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises hexyldecyl alcohol at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 50 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 20 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2.5 wt%.

[0122] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises octyldodecanol at a concentration of about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%.

[0123] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimeric pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%.

[0124] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimeric pentaerythritol tetraisostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0125] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt% of pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate.

[0126] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimeric pentaerythritol pentaisostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0127] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimeric pentaerythritol hexaisostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0128] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0129] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polyglycerol-4 isostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0130] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polyglycerol-5 trioleate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%.

[0131] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polyglycerol-10 nonaisostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%.

[0132] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polyglycerol-10 decaisostearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%.

[0133] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises olive oil PEG-7 ester at a concentration of about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, more preferably about 0.4 wt% to about 0.9 wt%, still more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 0.8 wt%, and most preferably about 0.7 wt%.

[0134] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polysorbate 60 at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 0.2 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 0.15 wt%, still more preferably about 0.075 wt% to about 0.125 wt%, and most preferably about 0.1 wt%.

[0135] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises polysorbate 80 at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 0.2 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 0.15 wt%, still more preferably about 0.075 wt% to about 0.125 wt%, and most preferably about 0.1 wt%.

[0136] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises sorbitan stearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0137] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises sorbitan distearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0138] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dehydrated sorbitan sesquistearate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%.

[0139] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises tris(laurene-4) phosphate at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.75 wt%.

[0140] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises lauryl ether-4 at a concentration of about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.75 wt%.

[0141] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises squalene at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 50 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 40 wt%, still more preferably about 10 wt% to about 30 wt%, and most preferably about 20 wt%.

[0142] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises bisabolol at a concentration of about 0.000001 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.01 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.2 wt%.

[0143] Typically, if several emollients are used, their individual concentrations are adjusted so that the sum of their concentrations corresponds to those mentioned above. Similarly, if several emulsifiers are used, their individual concentrations are adjusted so that the sum of their concentrations corresponds to those mentioned above. This also applies to mixtures of one or more emollients and one or more emulsifiers.

[0144] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises jojoba seed oil at a concentration of about 1 wt% to about 98 wt%, more preferably about 10 wt% to about 90 wt%, still more preferably about 15 wt% to about 60 wt%, and most preferably about 20 wt% to about 40 wt%.

[0145] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises dimethylmethoxybenzodihydropyranol at a concentration of about 0.001 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably about 0.01 wt% to about 2 wt%, still more preferably about 0.03 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 0.1 wt%.

[0146] In another aspect, the present invention also provides a method for preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the method comprising the following steps:

[0147] (i) Heating the emollient and / or emulsifier to a temperature of about 50°C to about 80°C;

[0148] (ii) Add the aforementioned cosmetic active ingredient; and

[0149] (iii) Mix to obtain the cosmetic composition.

[0150] In one embodiment, one or more other ingredients are added. Preferably, these other ingredients are added between steps (i) and (ii).

[0151] In one embodiment, one or more antioxidants are added. Preferably, the antioxidant is added in step (ii). Alternatively, it / they may be added between steps (i) and (ii).

[0152] Preferably, excessive heating of the blueberry seed extract should be avoided. For example, in one embodiment, the blueberry seed extract is heated for no more than 10 minutes, more preferably no more than 5 minutes.

[0153] Blueberry seed extract has many beneficial cosmetic effects, as illustrated in the examples below.

[0154] The present invention also provides a method for preventing photoaging of the skin by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0155] The present invention also provides a method for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0156] The present invention also provides a method for improving the skin barrier by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0157] The present invention also provides a method for reducing skin erythema by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0158] The present invention also provides a method for relieving itching symptoms by applying the cosmetic composition of the present invention to human skin.

[0159] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for preventing photoaging of the skin.

[0160] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes.

[0161] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention for improving the skin barrier.

[0162] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for relieving skin erythema.

[0163] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition of the present invention for relieving itching symptoms. Brief description of the attached diagram:

[0165] Figure 1 Entries #1 to #10 of Example 2 are shown;

[0166] Figure 2 Entries #11 to #20 of Example 2 are shown;

[0167] Figure 3 Entries #21 to #30 of Example 2 are shown;

[0168] Figure 4 Entries #31 to #35 of Example 2 are shown;

[0169] Figure 5 The base material FT and base material RT of Example 2 are shown;

[0170] Figure 6 The cosmetic composition of Example 4 is shown;

[0171] Figure 7 Composition D1 of Comparative Example 5 is shown; and

[0172] Figure 8 Composition D2 of Comparative Example 5 is shown.

[0173] The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting embodiments:

[0174] Example 1: General Test Method

[0175] To evaluate the suitability of chemical substances, particularly emollients and / or emulsifiers, for dissolving blueberry seed extract and providing a homogeneous cosmetic composition, the following general test methods are applied, with adjustments made to the amounts of each component based on the quantities to be tested:

[0176] The emollient and / or emulsifier (x wt%) and caprylic / capric triglycerides ((97.7-x) wt%) were placed in a vial and heated to approximately 60-70°C. 2 wt% of blueberry seed extract and optionally 0.3 wt% of an antioxidant (typically tocopheryl acetate) were premixed, and the resulting mixture was added to the heated emollient and / or emulsifier. After stirring at approximately 60-70°C for 5-7 min, the resulting composition was cooled to room temperature and then stored at -20°C ± 2°C for 24 hours. Subsequently, the vial containing the composition was stored in a water bath at 25°C ± 0.5°C for another 24 hours.

[0177] Then visually inspect the composition for homogeneity, turbidity, and sedimentation.

[0178] Example 2: Test Results

[0179] The results of visual testing according to the general procedure described in Example 1 are summarized in the table below. Each of these samples consisted of 2 wt% blueberry seed extract, 0.3 wt% tocopheryl acetate, a specified concentration of emollient / emulsifier, and qsp 100 wt% capric / capric triglyceride.

[0180]

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184] In addition, if an entry number (e.g., #14) is provided, photographs of the individual samples shown in the figure are also provided. More specifically:

[0185] Figure 1 Entries #1 through #10 are shown;

[0186] Figure 2 Entries #11 to #20 are shown;

[0187] Figure 3 Entries #21 to #30 are shown;

[0188] Figure 4 Entries #31 to #35 are shown; and

[0189] Figure 5The base material FT and the base material RT are shown.

[0190] As can be seen from the photographs of items #1 to #35, some of these samples are completely homogeneous, while others are turbid or even contain sediment.

[0191] For both FT and RT substrates, 2 wt% blueberry seed extract and 0.3 wt% tocopheryl acetate were mixed with 97.7 wt% capric / capric triglyceride. RT substrate was then kept at room temperature (25°C), while FT substrate was stored in a refrigerator (-20°C) for 24 hours, followed by a 24-hour freeze-thaw cycle in a 25°C water bath before photographing. The same freeze-thaw procedure was performed on other samples labeled with FT.

[0192] Example 3: Evaluation of MMP1 release activity

[0193] The purpose of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of blueberry seed oil against photoaging.

[0194] For this purpose, the release of MMP-1 was evaluated after treatment with blueberry seed oil for 24 hours and then irradiation with UVA.

[0195] Cell culture and processing

[0196] Cell culture was performed on primary cells isolated from fresh biopsy. Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) were seeded in triplicate at 50,000 cells per well in 12-well plates.

[0197] After incubating for 48 hours in complete medium (DMEM, Gibco) supplemented with 10% FCS (Biowest) and 1% antibiotic (Sigma-Aldrich) at 37°C and 5% CO2, the cells were washed twice with DMEM and incubated in basal medium (DMEM and 1% antibiotic) for at least 6 hours. At the end of the incubation, the cells were treated overnight at 37°C and 5% CO2 with blueberry seed oil (0.01 wt% in basal medium containing 0.09 wt% DMSO).

[0198] Untreated and cultured skin cells were used as negative controls.

[0199] The next day, the cells were washed twice with PBS (Gibco) and treated with HBSS (Gibco). Then, they were heated at 10 J / cm². 2 Cells were irradiated with UVA and incubated for 72 hours in basal medium at 37°C and 5% CO2.

[0200] Untreated but irradiated skin cells were treated with HBSS during irradiation and kept at room temperature.

[0201] After 72 hours, the cell supernatant was collected and stored at -20°C until MMP-1 was quantified by ELISA. Meanwhile, to evaluate cell viability, the cells were stained with crystal violet solution.

[0202] Three copies were used for the measurement.

[0203] Assay for cell viability

[0204] Cells were attached to the wells with methanol and then stained with crystal violet (Sigma). The wells were washed three times with distilled water, and the staining agent was dissolved in 10% acetic acid (Sigma). The absorbance of each sample was then measured using a spectrophotometer.

[0205] Quantitative analysis of MMP-1 release

[0206] MMP-1 release was quantified using an ELISA kit (Kit Human Pro-MMP1, R&D systems) according to the supplier's protocol. The absorbance of each sample (including the reference scale) was measured using a spectrophotometer and analyzed using the MyAssays website. The obtained concentration values ​​were normalized to account for cell viability.

[0207] Statistical analysis

[0208] A Shapiro-Wilk normality test was performed to assess whether the data followed Gaussian law. The results did indeed follow Gaussian law, but with fewer than 8 replicates. Therefore, nonparametric statistical analysis was performed using Kruskal-Wallis ANOVA, followed by the Mann-Whitney U test.

[0209] result

[0210] Compared with unirradiated fibroblasts, irradiated fibroblasts significantly increased the percentage of MMP-1 release by 99% (p<0.05).

[0211] Cells treated with 0.01% blueberry seed extract showed significantly lower MMP-1 release (-42% compared to untreated irradiated cells (p<0.1)).

[0212] Therefore, treatment with blueberry seed extract resulted in a significant inhibition of MMP-1 release, confirming that blueberry seed extract can prevent photoaging.

[0213] Example 4: Cosmetic Composition

[0214] The following are examples of cosmetic compositions of the present invention:

[0215]

[0216] C13-16 isoparaffins (e.g., Neossance from Givaudan) TM Semisqualane has low polarity and has been found to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic compositions, such as a pleasant tactile feel when applied to the skin, easy absorption, less greasiness, and soft residue.

[0217] Stearic acid was also found to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic compositions.

[0218] Figure 6 The cosmetic composition of Example 4 after three freeze-thaw cycles is shown. As can be seen from the photograph, the cosmetic composition is homogeneous.

[0219] Example 5: Comparative Example

[0220] Cosmetic compositions containing blueberry seed extract have been described in the past. However, if an oil-based base is used, these bases often contain sediment or appear cloudy or turbid or otherwise uneven.

[0221] For example, CN109771338(D1) discloses a composition in Example 1 comprising 0.1% blueberry seed oil, 0.2% bisabolol, 0.1% caprylic / caprylic triglyceride, 2% polyglycerol-2-dihydroxystearate, 0.2% polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, 0.3% tocopheryl acetate, 1.8% cyclopentamethoxysiloxane, 1.5% cyclohexylsiloxane, and 3% ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0222] And Tadic et al., “Old Plant, New Possibilities: Wild Bilberry( Vaccinium myrtillus L Table 1 discloses a composition comprising 5.50 wt% caprylic / capric triglyceride (Myritol® 318), 8.50 wt% glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol polyether-20 and cetearyl alcohol polyether-12 and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate (Sabowax® AE), 0.75 wt% cetyl alcohol, 0.75 wt% stearyl alcohol, 2.00 wt% glycerin, 0.50 wt% sodium benzoate, 6.00 wt% blueberry seed oil (wild blueberry oil), 6.00 wt% blueberry leaf (wild blueberry extract) impregnated with 70% (v / v) ethanol, and 100 wt% distilled water.

[0223] For comparison, the inventors have tested the compositions disclosed in these two documents.

[0224] The composition of D1 was either kept at room temperature overnight (sample "RT") or subjected to a freeze-thaw cycle by keeping it at -20°C overnight and then warming it to room temperature (sample "FT"). Figure 7 It can be seen that both samples are turbid.

[0225] The composition of D2 consists of an oil phase (caprylic / caprylic triglyceride, glyceryl stearate, and cetearyl alcohol polyether-20 and cetearyl alcohol polyether-12, and cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and blueberry seed oil) and an aqueous phase (glycerol, sodium benzoate, blueberry leaves infused with 70% (v / v) ethanol, and water). The inventors were unable to obtain blueberry leaves infused with 70% (v / v) ethanol; however, it is an aqueous extract and was therefore substituted with water.

[0226] First, only the oil phase was examined. It was kept at room temperature overnight or subjected to freeze-thaw cycles (-20°C to room temperature) to obtain a light green, turbid solid. Figure 8 The oil phase was heated to 70-75℃ to obtain a dark green, clear liquid (RT). Figure 8 (70-75℃). The heated and thus liquefied oil phase is mixed with the aqueous phase to obtain an opaque, creamy emulsion. Figure 8 (The emulsion in the middle).

[0227] As can be seen from the above and the figures, the compositions of the prior art are not clear at room temperature, and may not even be liquid.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetic active ingredient and an oily cosmetic base, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient comprises or is composed of blueberry seed extract, and wherein the oily cosmetic base comprises or is composed of a moisturizer, an emulsifier, or a mixture of one or more moisturizers and one or more emulsifiers. The one or more emollients mentioned above are selected from polar ester emollients, polar ether emollients, polar alcohol emollients, and mixtures thereof. The one or more emulsifiers mentioned above are selected from: (a) A dimerized pentaerythritol fatty acid ester, comprising a dimerized pentaerythritol moiety having 3-6 C18 fatty acid moieties covalently linked to the dimerized pentaerythritol moiety. (b) A fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, comprising a polyglycerol backbone having 2-10 polyglycerol units, wherein 1-10 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyglycerol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties, and wherein the emulsifier has an HLB value of about 4 to about 8, provided that the emulsifier is neither polyglycerol-2-dipolyhydroxystearate nor polyglycerol-3-diisostearate. (c) A fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, comprising a polyethylene glycol backbone having 4-10 polyethylene glycol units, wherein one or two fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the polyethylene glycol backbone, wherein the fatty acid moieties are C18 fatty acid moieties. (d) Polysorbate fatty acid esters comprising an ethoxylated sorbitol backbone having 20 ethoxylated sorbitol units, wherein a C18 fatty acid moiety is covalently linked to the ethoxylated sorbitol backbone. (e) A sorbitan fatty acid ester comprising a sorbitan moiety, wherein one or two C18 fatty acid moieties are covalently linked to the sorbitan moiety. (f) Tris(laurate-4) phosphate, (g) lauryl alcohol polyether-4, and (h) A mixture of one or more of the emulsifiers (a) to (g).

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising blueberry seed extract at a concentration of about 0.01 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably about 1 wt% to about 3 wt%; and most preferably at a concentration of about 2 wt%.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio of the blueberry seed extract to the one or more emollients is from about 1:1 to about 1:99, more preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:50, still more preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:30, and most preferably from about 1:10 to about 1:

20.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the mass ratio of the blueberry seed extract to the one or more emulsifiers is about 20:1 to about 1:10, more preferably about 15:1 to about 1:5, still more preferably about 10:1 to about 1:1, and most preferably about 5:1 to about 2:

1.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the one or more emollients are selected from octyl dodecyl lactate, isosorbide dimethyl ether, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate), diethylhexyl carbonate, hexyldecyl alcohol, octyl dodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; and / or wherein the one or more emulsifiers are selected from pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate, etc. Poly(pentaerythritol pentaisostearate), poly(pentaerythritol hexaisostearate), poly(pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate), polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 trioleate, polyglycerol-10 nonaisostearate, polyglycerol-10 decaisostearate, olive oil PEG-7 ester, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, tris(lauryl ether-4) phosphate, lauryl ether-4, and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cosmetic composition is homogeneous.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 further comprises an antioxidant, more preferably a natural antioxidant, at a concentration of about 0.001 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.3 wt%.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the antioxidant is selected from dimethylmethoxybenzodihydropyranol, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid), octadecyl di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), rosemary ( Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) leaf extract.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising one or more ingredients selected from squalene, bisabolol, jojoba ( Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil and its mixtures.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising less than 70 wt% water, more preferably less than 30 wt% water, still more preferably less than 10 wt% water, and most preferably free of water or substantially free of water.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein - If present, the concentration of octyl dodecyl lactate is from about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably from about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of isosorbide dimethyl ether is from about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably from about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of isostearyl isostearate is from about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 90 wt%, still more preferably from about 20 wt% to about 50 wt%, and most preferably from about 32 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of isononyl isononanoate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably from about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dioctyl carbonate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably from about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of neopentyl glycol didecanoate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably from about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of triglyceride tri(ethylhexanoate) is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably from about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of diethylhexyl carbonate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of hexyldecyl alcohol is from about 0.1 wt% to about 50 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 20 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably about 2.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of octyldodecyl alcohol is from about 1 wt% to about 99.9 wt%, more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 99 wt%, still more preferably from about 50 wt% to about 98 wt%, and most preferably about 97.7 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol tri-polyhydroxystearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 20 wt%, more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 10 wt%, still more preferably from about 1 wt% to about 5 wt%, and most preferably from about 2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol tetraisostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol pentaisostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol hexaisostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimeric pentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polyglycerol-4 isostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polyglycerol-5 trioleate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polyglycerol-10 nonaisostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polyglycerol-10 decaisostearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, more preferably from about 0.15 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.25 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of olive oil PEG-7 ester is about 0.3 wt% to about 1 wt%, more preferably about 0.4 wt% to about 0.9 wt%, still more preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 0.8 wt%, and most preferably about 0.7 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polysorbate 60 is about 0.01 wt% to about 0.2 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 0.15 wt%, still more preferably about 0.075 wt% to about 0.125 wt%, and most preferably about 0.1 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of polysorbate 80 is about 0.01 wt% to about 0.2 wt%, more preferably about 0.05 wt% to about 0.15 wt%, still more preferably about 0.075 wt% to about 0.125 wt%, and most preferably about 0.1 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dehydrated sorbitan stearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dehydrated sorbitan distearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dehydrated sorbitan sesquistearate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 1.25 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.25 wt% to about 0.75 wt%, and most preferably about 0.5 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of tris(laurene-4) phosphate is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.75 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of lauryl ether-4 is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, more preferably from about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably about 0.75 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of squalene is from about 0.01 wt% to about 50 wt%, more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 40 wt%, still more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt%, and most preferably about 20 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of bisabolol is from about 0.000001 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably from about 0.01 wt% to about 1 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.1 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, and most preferably about 0.2 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of jojoba seed oil is from about 1 wt% to about 98 wt%, more preferably from about 10 wt% to about 90 wt%, still more preferably from about 15 wt% to about 60 wt%, and most preferably from about 20 wt% to about 40 wt%; and / or - If present, the concentration of dimethylmethoxybenzodihydropyranol is from about 0.001 wt% to about 5 wt%, more preferably from about 0.01 wt% to about 2 wt%, still more preferably from about 0.03 wt% to about 1 wt%, and most preferably from about 0.05 wt% to about 0.1 wt%.

12. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising the following steps: (i) Heating the emollient and / or emulsifier to a temperature of about 50°C to about 80°C; (ii) Add the aforementioned cosmetic active ingredient; and (iii) Mix to obtain the cosmetic composition.

13. A method of preventing photoaging of the skin, stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, improving the skin barrier, reducing skin erythema and / or reducing itching symptoms by applying the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 11 to human skin.

14. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in preventing photoaging of the skin, stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, improving the skin barrier, reducing skin erythema and / or relieving itching symptoms.

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