A multi-dimensional gradient hlb microemulsion gel network-based makeup removing composition, and a preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The present application relates to a kind of based on multi-dimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network makeup removing composition and its preparation method and application, the composition of the makeup removing composition includes A phase, B phase, C phase, D phase and E phase;Wherein A phase includes surfactant;B phase includes high molecular polymer, polyhydric alcohol and water;C phase includes thickening agent;D phase includes oil and fat;E phase includes preservative and active ingredient;The surfactant includes main emulsifier, coemulsifier and stabilizing regulator.The makeup removing composition provided by the present application, by high molecular microemulsion system, traditional crystalline wax is replaced greatly, not only eliminate paste normal temperature cracking, low temperature change thin and high temperature oil penetration, more break the industry barrier that traditional makeup removing paste cannot be compatible with water-soluble efficacy component.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of daily chemical products technology, specifically relating to a makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network, its preparation method, and its application. Background Technology

[0002] Cleansing balms have become the mainstream formulation in the deep cleansing market due to their high oil content, strong makeup-dissolving ability, and portable form. The physicochemical structure of commercially available regular cleansing balms is a typical "anhydrous self-emulsifying wax-based balm system." It mainly relies on solid high-melting-point lipids (such as synthetic waxes, polyethylene, microcrystalline waxes, etc.) added to the formula. During the process of melting at high temperature (about 85°C) and cooling, they crystallize to form a rigid three-dimensional microcrystalline network of needles or spheres, thereby physically encapsulating the liquid makeup-dissolving oils and surfactants in the interstices of the crystal lattice.

[0003] However, this anhydrous structure, which relies heavily on "rigid wax crystals" as a single network framework, exhibits inherent and insurmountable flaws in rheological physics, product efficacy expansion, and industrial production:

[0004] (1) Thermodynamic instability (high-temperature oil seepage and room-temperature oil spots): The pure wax-based crystalline network is very fragile and lacks elasticity. At room temperature (15℃-30℃), due to uneven internal shrinkage stress, the surface of the crystalline network is prone to roughness and unevenness, as well as localized accumulation of free oils, resulting in "oil spots". When the temperature rises to the high temperature of summer (45℃-50℃), the low-melting-point wax undergoes polymorphic transformation or local melting, the rigid skeleton collapses, and a large amount of liquid oil seeps out over the capillary force, resulting in a serious "oil seepage" phenomenon.

[0005] (2) Shrinkage and cracking at room temperature and thinning due to low temperature damage: The elastic modulus of the pure wax crystal network is extremely low. After standing, because the volume shrinkage stress of wax crystal growth cannot be released, macroscopic cracks are very likely to spontaneously appear on the surface and inside of the paste after it has been stored at room temperature (0℃-25℃) for a period of time. More seriously, when the product undergoes extreme low temperature testing at -8℃ or even -16℃, the rigid wax crystal skeleton will undergo irreversible brittle fracture and damage; since pure wax crystals do not have "thixotropic self-healing ability", when the product returns to room temperature, the network completely loses its support and eventually "thins" into a fluid emulsion, unable to maintain the paste shape.

[0006] (3) Barriers to efficacy expansion (incompatibility with water-soluble active ingredients): Because traditional cleansing balms are purely anhydrous systems, water-soluble active ingredients (such as ectoine, sodium hyaluronate, plant polyphenols, etc.) cannot dissolve. If forcibly suspended in powder form, they are prone to crystallization and precipitation, resulting in a grainy feel; if a small amount of water is added, the pure wax skeleton of the system will collapse and separate instantly due to the lack of emulsification buffer. This means that traditional cleansing balms can only stay at the single level of cleansing and cannot achieve true "removal and care in one".

[0007] (4) "Hot filling limitation" caused by rheological defects: Conventional cleansing balms crystallize into an irreversible rigid body. To ensure a flat surface without breaks, the solid wax must be completely melted and kept in a high-temperature fluid state of 70℃-80℃ for direct hot filling, followed by forced static solidification through a cooling tunnel. This process not only consumes a lot of energy, but the continuous high temperature further eliminates the possibility of adding highly active biological ingredients. Once the balm cools and crystallizes, it can no longer be filled by mechanical pumping at room temperature (the shearing force of the machine will completely destroy the wax skeleton and make it irreversible).

[0008] In summary, how to break through the rheological limitations of traditional cleansing balms with "anhydrous rigid crystalline wax" as the framework, and develop a new cleansing framework that overcomes room temperature cracking, resists low temperature thinning and high temperature oil seepage, has microemulsion network encapsulation capabilities (perfectly compatible with water-soluble functional ingredients), and is completely compatible with room temperature filling processes, is a technical challenge that urgently needs to be overcome in this field. Summary of the Invention

[0009] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network, its preparation method, and its applications. This invention creatively utilizes a cross-linked polymer in synergy with a multidimensional gradient HLB emulsifier, under the stimulation of water and polyols, to self-assemble into a flexible microemulsion gel continuous phase with strong elasticity and high thixotropy, while minimizing the amount of solid wax used as a secondary network. This dual interpenetrating structure not only completely solves the pain points of cracking, thinning, oil seepage, and process limitations from a fundamental rheological perspective, but also achieves a breakthrough in the stable loading of water-soluble active ingredients using microemulsion micelles.

[0010] To achieve this objective, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:

[0011] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network, wherein the makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network comprises phase A, phase B, phase C, phase D and phase E;

[0012] Phase A includes surfactants; Phase B includes polymers, polyols, and water; Phase C includes thickeners; Phase D includes oils; and Phase E includes preservatives and active ingredients.

[0013] The surfactants include primary emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, and stabilizers;

[0014] The main emulsifiers are sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate and polyglycerol-10 diisostearate;

[0015] The co-emulsifier is a combination of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, and polyglycerol-10 laurate;

[0016] The stabilizer is a combination of PEG-5 glyceryl triisostearate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.

[0017] HLB stands for hydrophilic-lipophilic balance.

[0018] The technical solution of this invention completely abandons the traditional anhydrous wax-based approach. When the gradient emulsifier is excited by water, polyol, and "high molecular cross-linked polymer," the surfactant undergoes high self-assembly, forming a reverse microemulsion / liquid crystal bicontinuous network. This microstructure is like countless tiny "water sacs," which can stably encapsulate water-soluble active ingredients (such as ectoine, sodium hyaluronate, etc.) that are incompatible with traditional cleansing balms in the center of the gel polymer network, completely solving the technical prejudice of water-based ingredients precipitating out of oil-based balms.

[0019] (Note: The term "microemulsion gel" in this invention broadly includes bicontinuous phase emulsions, liquid crystal gels, and thermodynamic microemulsion systems with droplet sizes in the submicron and nanometer range.)

[0020] The sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate and polyglycerol-10 diisostearate described in this invention have HLB values ​​of 8-12, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides and polyglycerol-10 laurate have HLB values ​​of 13-16, and PEG-5 glyceryl triisostearate and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate have HLB values ​​of 3-7, thereby forming a multidimensional gradient HLB system.

[0021] In some / one embodiment, the surfactant of the present invention may also be a combination of all polyglycerols, that is, a combination of polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and polyglycerol-2 triisostearate.

[0022] In some / one embodiment, the makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network comprises 18-35 parts of phase A (e.g., 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, or 34 parts, etc.), 6-18 parts of phase B (e.g., 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, or 17 parts, etc.), and 3-6 parts of phase C (e.g., 3.2...). The quantities are as follows: 3.5, 3.8, 4, 4.2, 4.5, 4.8, 5, 5.2, 5.5 or 5.8, etc.); D phase 45-65 portions (e.g., 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62 or 64, etc.); and E phase 0.1-5 portions (e.g., 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4 or 4.5, etc.).

[0023] In some / one embodiment, the mass ratio of the primary emulsifier, co-emulsifier and stabilizer is (0.5-1.5):(0.5-1):(0.5-1).

[0024] "0.5-1.5" can be 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 or 1.4, etc.

[0025] The first "0.5-1" can be 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9, or 0.95, etc.;

[0026] The second "0.5-1" can be 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9, or 0.95, etc.

[0027] In some / one embodiment, the mass ratio of the polymer, polyol and water in phase B is (0.1-3):(0.1-5):(5-10).

[0028] "0.1-3" can be 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2, 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, or 2.8, etc.

[0029] "0.1-5" can be 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4 or 4.5, etc.

[0030] "5-10" can be 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9 or 9.5, etc.

[0031] In some / one embodiment, the polymer comprises any one or a combination of at least two of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer.

[0032] In some / one embodiment, the polyol includes any one or a combination of at least two of 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, or 1,2-pentanediol.

[0033] In some / one embodiment, the thickener comprises any one or a combination of at least two of synthetic wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, or beeswax.

[0034] In some / one embodiment, the oil comprises a blend of polar base oils and nonpolar alkanes.

[0035] In some / one embodiment, the mass ratio of the polar base oil to the nonpolar alkane is 1:(0.5-1.5), for example, it can be 1:0.6, 1:0.7, 1:0.8, 1:0.9, 1:1, 1:1.1, 1:1.2, 1:1.3 or 1:1.4, etc.

[0036] In some / one embodiment, the polar base oil comprises any one or a combination of at least two of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, or ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0037] In some / one embodiment, the polar base oil is a combination of cetyl ethylhexanoate and caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0038] In some / one embodiment, the nonpolar alkane includes any one or a combination of at least two of C15-19 alkane, isododecane, isohexadecane, C9-12 alkane, C13-14 isoalkanes, C13-14 alkane, and C13-16 isoalkanes.

[0039] In some / one embodiment, the nonpolar alkane is a combination of C15-19 alkane and isohexadecane.

[0040] In some / one embodiment, the mass ratio of preservative to active ingredient in phase E is 1:(0.1-1), for example, it can be 1:0.2, 1:0.3, 1:0.4, 1:0.5, 1:0.6, 1:0.7, 1:0.8 or 1:0.9, etc.

[0041] In some / one embodiment, the active ingredient includes any one or a combination of at least two of tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid (edokine), sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, nicotinamide, or centella asiatica extract.

[0042] In some / one embodiment, the preservative includes any one or a combination of at least two of 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0043] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in the first aspect, the preparation method comprising:

[0044] S1. Mix water and polyol in phase B with phase E, then add the polymer in phase B, and mix to obtain a polymer dispersion.

[0045] The oil in phase D, the thickener in phase C, and the surfactant in phase A are mixed to obtain an oil phase liquid;

[0046] S2. The polymer dispersion and the oil phase are mixed and homogenized to obtain the makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network.

[0047] In some / one embodiment, the temperature during the preparation of the oil phase liquid in step S1 is 80-90°C, for example, it can be 81°C, 83°C, 85°C, 87°C or 89°C.

[0048] In some / one embodiment, the mixing and homogenization in step S2 is performed at a rotation speed of 2000-3000 rpm (e.g., 2100 rpm, 2300 rpm, 2500 rpm, 2700 rpm or 2900 rpm, etc.) and a temperature of 80-90℃ (e.g., 81℃, 83℃, 85℃, 87℃ or 89℃, etc.).

[0049] The makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network of the present invention can be directly hot-filled or filled at room temperature, achieving perfect compatibility between the "high-temperature hot filling and room-temperature mechanical pump filling" process.

[0050] (1) Hot filling process: The homogenized fluid material at 70℃-90℃ is directly filled into the bottle, and then allowed to stand and cool to form a smooth and dense surface.

[0051] (2) Room temperature filling process: After the material cools to room temperature (25℃-35℃) and becomes a gel-like state, it is filled directly by applying high shear force through mechanical physical pumping equipment, taking advantage of the rheological and thixotropic properties of macromolecules. After entering the bottle, the material spontaneously reconstructs the internal microemulsion network, restoring its consistency and the appearance of the gel-like paste.

[0052] Thirdly, the present invention provides the application of a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in the first aspect in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0053] All the specific point values ​​within the above range can be selected, and will not be elaborated on here.

[0054] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0055] (1) The makeup removal composition provided by this invention completely reconstructs the design of makeup remover balms from a rheological perspective. By significantly replacing traditional crystalline wax with a high-molecular microemulsion system, it not only eliminates the cracking of the balm at room temperature, thinning at low temperature, and oil seepage at high temperature, but also breaks down the industry barrier that traditional makeup remover balms cannot be compatible with water-soluble functional ingredients (such as ectoine). At the same time, the product of this invention has achieved significant technological progress in terms of extreme gentleness and deep makeup removal power, and has extremely high industrial transformation and barrier value.

[0056] (2) The makeup removal composition of the present invention has an extremely high elastic modulus, which can perfectly absorb the shrinkage stress of trace wax crystals and completely eliminate the cracking of the paste and surface oil spots at room temperature. When subjected to extreme low temperature of -16℃, the elastic macromolecular hydrogen bond network will not be irreversibly destroyed and will not become thinner after rewarming. At the same time, the liquid oil is locked inside the micelles, which completely resists the oil seepage problem caused by thermodynamic desorption at high temperature (50℃).

[0057] (3) The makeup remover composition of the present invention has excellent thixotropic properties and is compatible with both hot filling and room temperature pumping processes. The hydrogen bond network of the present invention not only fully supports high-temperature hot filling at 70℃-90℃, but is also perfectly compatible with room temperature mechanical pumping filling (25℃-35℃). Under the high shear force of the mechanical fluid pump at room temperature, the non-covalent bonds between molecules of the paste deassociate, and the viscosity drops sharply to achieve filling; after the shear force is removed, the hydrogen bond network quickly and spontaneously recombines, and can still maintain the consistency, appearance and stability of the paste. Attached Figure Description

[0058] Figure 1 This is an appearance image of the sample prepared in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0059] Figure 2 This is another appearance view of the sample prepared in Example 1 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0060] To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following describes the technical solution of the present invention in conjunction with preferred embodiments of the present invention. However, the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.

[0061] The following detailed description of the features and advantages of the present invention is sufficient to enable those skilled in the art to understand the technical content of the present invention and implement it accordingly. The terms and expressions used herein are for descriptive purposes only, and the present invention should not be limited to these terms and expressions.

[0062] The technical solution of the present invention will be further illustrated below through specific embodiments. Those skilled in the art should understand that the embodiments described are merely illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention in any way.

[0063] The weight parts mentioned in the following examples and comparative examples are based on the actual active ingredients contained in commercially available raw materials. These commercially available raw materials may also selectively contain any one or a combination of at least two of the following: solvents, fillers, diluents, stabilizers, pH adjusters, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, or impurities within permissible limits.

[0064] The sources of some of the raw materials used in the embodiments and comparative examples of this invention are shown in Table 1 below.

[0065] Table 1

[0066]

[0067] All other raw materials can be used as long as they are purchased from authorized distributors.

[0068] Examples 1-4

[0069] This invention provides four makeup removal compositions based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network, the components of which are shown in Table 2 below. The amounts of each component in the table are parts.

[0070] Table 2

[0071]

[0072] The preparation method of the makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network in Example 1 is as follows:

[0073] (1) Water and 1,3-propanediol in phase B are mixed with phase E, and then polyacrylate crosslinking polymer-6 in phase B is added. After mixing, a polymer dispersion is obtained.

[0074] (2) Add the D-phase oil, C-phase thickener and A-phase surfactant into the main reactor, heat to 85°C, and stir until the solid wax in the system is completely melted and becomes clear and transparent to obtain the oil phase liquid;

[0075] (3) Add the polymer dispersion prepared in step (1) to the oil phase liquid in step (2), maintain at 85°C, turn on the homogenizer for high-speed dispersion shearing (2500 rpm), and after homogenization, the system is cooled to obtain the makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network.

[0076] The preparation methods of the makeup removal compositions based on multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel networks in Examples 2-4 are the same as those in Example 1.

[0077] Example 5

[0078] This embodiment provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the polar base oil does not include cetyl ethylhexanoate. The reduction is made up by caprylic / capric triglyceride. The remaining components and amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0079] Example 6

[0080] This embodiment provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the polar base oil does not include caprylic / capric triglyceride. The reduction is made up by cetyl ethylhexanoate. The remaining components and amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0081] Example 7

[0082] This embodiment provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the nonpolar alkanes do not include C15-19 alkanes, and the reduction is made up by isohexadecane. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0083] Example 8

[0084] This embodiment provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the nonpolar alkanes do not include isohexadecane, and the reduction is made up by C15-19 alkanes. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0085] Comparative Example 1

[0086] This comparative example provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the surfactant does not include a stabilizer, and the amount of stabilizer is reduced and distributed in proportion to the main emulsifier and co-emulsifier components. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0087] Comparative Example 2

[0088] This comparative example provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the surfactant does not include the main emulsifier. The amount of the main emulsifier is reduced and distributed to the stabilizer and co-emulsifier components in proportion. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1. The preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0089] Comparative Example 3

[0090] This comparative example provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the surfactant does not include a co-emulsifier. The amount of co-emulsifier is reduced and allocated to each component of the stabilizer and the main emulsifier in proportion to the parts. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1. The preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0091] Comparative Example 4

[0092] This comparative example provides a makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that it does not include phase B; the reduction is compensated for by phase C. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1. Note: In this comparative example, because there is no polar phase, the water-soluble active ingredients cannot be dissolved; the missing active ingredients are compensated for with oils.

[0093] Comparative Example 5

[0094] This comparative example provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the D phase does not include polar base oils. The amount of these oils is reduced and allocated to C15-19 alkyl and isohexadecane in proportion to the amount of oils. The remaining components and amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0095] Comparative Example 6

[0096] This comparative example provides a makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network. The only difference between this composition and Example 1 is that the D phase does not include nonpolar alkanes, and the reduced amount is allocated to cetyl ethylhexanoate and caprylic / capric triglyceride in proportion to the amount of the alkanes. The remaining components and their amounts are the same as in Example 1, and the preparation method is the same as in Example 1.

[0097] Test Example 1: Stability Test

[0098] Stability tests included: placing samples of Examples 1-8 and Comparative Examples 1-6 at room temperature (25°C) for 4 weeks to observe cracking and active ingredient crystallization; placing them at a constant temperature of 50°C for 4 weeks to observe oil seepage; and freezing them at -16°C for 48 hours and then rewarming them to observe whether they became thinner. The results are recorded in Table 3 below.

[0099] Table 3

[0100]

[0101] As shown in Table 3, the traditional pure wax system in Comparative Example 4 inevitably leads to stress cracking when left to stand at room temperature and is completely unable to stably dissolve water-soluble components. The microemulsion polymer network of Examples 1-3 of this invention perfectly absorbs volumetric deformation stress, exhibits extremely stable structure at high and low temperatures, and successfully utilizes micellar vesicles to stably carry water-based repair components. Since the system contains a large number of amphiphilic emulsifiers, polar oils need to be added to improve compatibility. Therefore, the absence of polar oils or inappropriate combinations of polar oils will lead to system instability. Emulsifiers with different hydrophilic and lipophilic properties (i.e., different HLB values) are crucial for the construction of the system framework. An unbalanced combination of emulsifiers will affect stability, leading to oil separation at room temperature and high temperature, and thinning and stratification after low-temperature recovery.

[0102] Since the samples of Comparative Examples 1-3 and 5 have poor stability at room temperature, no further tests were conducted.

[0103] Test Example 2: Rheological Property Test

[0104] Test subjects: Samples from Examples 1-8 and Comparative Examples 4 and 6.

[0105] Test methods: Amplitude scanning was used to evaluate the initial yield stress τ0; three-stage shear recovery test (100s) was performed. -1 The shear rate drops abruptly to 0.1 s after 60 seconds of high shear. -1 The viscosity thixotropic recovery rate (simulating room temperature filling recovery ability) was recorded at the 10th second. The specific test results are shown in Table 4.

[0106] Table 4

[0107]

[0108] As shown in Table 4, the extremely high yield stress (980 Pa) in Comparative Example 4 resulted in high surface friction and complete fracture after high shear, necessitating hot filling. Examples 1-3 demonstrated that within the scope of this invention, the systems all possess excellent thixotropic properties, recovering more than 85% of their viscosity within 10 seconds of removing the high shear force, thus completely overcoming the process barrier of direct molding via room temperature mechanical pumping.

[0109] Test Example 3: Makeup Removal Effect Test

[0110] To scientifically and reproducibly quantify and compare the dissolving and emulsifying abilities of each component formulation, this test employs a linear abrasion apparatus equipped with a standard robotic arm combined with spectrophotometry for precise in vitro evaluation.

[0111] Test substances: Samples from Examples 1-8 and Comparative Examples 4 and 6.

[0112] Test method:

[0113] (1) On a PMMA biomimetic board with random texture of human epidermis, read the reference color of the bare board (L0, a0, b0), apply test makeup (waterproof foundation / mascara / lip gloss) evenly, let it dry and cure, and read the color of the makeup (L1, a1, b1).

[0114] (2) Weigh 0.20g of sample and use a Taber friction instrument to rub back and forth in a straight line 20 times under constant pressure (simulating massage and makeup melting).

[0115] (3) Add 1.0 mL of water, rub 10 times (simulate emulsification), rinse with running water and blow dry, and read the color (L2, a2, b2) after makeup removal;

[0116] (4) Efficiency Quantification Calculation: The cleaning rate (CE%) is calculated according to the CIE 1976 color difference formula:

[0117] Total color difference in makeup application ∆E_Makeup = √[(L1-L0)² + (a1-a0)² + (b1-b0)²];

[0118] The residual total color difference ∆E_Residue = √[(L2-L0)² + (a2-a0)² + (b2-b0)²];

[0119] Cleanliness rate CE (%) = [1 - (∆E_Residue / ∆E_Makeup)] × 100%.

[0120] The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0121] Table 5

[0122]

[0123] As shown in Table 5, the traditional formula (Comparative Example 4) had an average cleansing rate of only 87.7% when dealing with highly film-forming makeup, and exhibited a large standard deviation drift. The fundamental rheological mechanism is that more than 10% of the hard wax crystals formed a physical barrier layer in the micro-texture of the skin, which greatly slowed down the rate at which oil dissolves the waterproof film. The multidimensional microemulsion system of this invention melts upon contact with the skin, and Example 4 proves that the polyglycerol gradient system not only perfectly matches the rheological architecture of this invention, but also shows a rapid phase change emulsification and a significant synergistic improvement in the targeted dissolution of heavy makeup.

[0124] Test Example 4: Biological Mildness Verification (In Vitro Cell and Zebrafish Models)

[0125] Test subjects: Samples from Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 4.

[0126] Experimental methods: Cell viability was measured after 60 minutes of exposure to EpiKutis® 3D reconstructed human epidermal models; the number of inflammatory points was detected after 24 hours of exposure to transgenic neutrophil fluorescent zebrafish embryos. Results are shown in Table 6.

[0127] Table 6

[0128]

[0129] Results Analysis: In the EpiKutis® 3D cell model, Examples 1-3 (containing ectoine / sodium hyaluronate) even outperformed the pure water control group, showing a repair trend; while the survival rate of the pure wax system in Comparative Example 1 decreased to 81.5% due to the high concentration of surfactant penetration. Example 4 demonstrates that the full polyglycerol gradient system has better gentleness, which is due to the better gentleness of the polyglycerol emulsifier itself, but its price is higher than other emulsifiers. By reasonably compounding other emulsifiers, costs can be reduced while achieving better performance. The microemulsion network of this invention binds surfactant molecules within micelles while releasing repair components, exhibiting a "removal and protection in one" cell repair-grade gentleness.

[0130] The applicant declares that the technical solution of this invention is illustrated by the above embodiments, but this invention is not limited to the above embodiments, that is, it does not mean that this invention must rely on the above embodiments to be implemented. Those skilled in the art should understand that any improvements to this invention, equivalent substitutions of raw materials for the products of this invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific methods, etc., all fall within the protection scope and disclosure scope of this invention.

[0131] The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above. However, the present invention is not limited to the specific details in the above embodiments. Within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, various simple modifications can be made to the technical solution of the present invention, and these simple modifications all fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

[0132] It should also be noted that the various specific technical features described in the above specific embodiments can be combined in any suitable manner without contradiction. In order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the present invention will not describe the various possible combinations separately.

Claims

1. A makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network, characterized in that, The makeup removal composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network comprises phases A, B, C, D, and E. Phase A includes surfactants; Phase B includes polymers, polyols, and water; Phase C includes thickeners; Phase D includes polar base oils and non-polar alkanes; and Phase E includes preservatives and active ingredients. The surfactant comprises a primary emulsifier, a co-emulsifier, and a stabilizer in a mass ratio of (0.5-1.5):(0.5-1):(0.5-1); The main emulsifiers are sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate and polyglycerol-10 diisostearate; The co-emulsifier is a combination of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, and polyglycerol-10 laurate; The stabilizer is a combination of PEG-5 glyceryl triisostearate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.

2. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network comprises, by weight, 18-35 parts of phase A, 6-18 parts of phase B, 3-6 parts of phase C, 45-65 parts of phase D, and 0.1-5 parts of phase E.

3. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The mass ratio of the polymer, polyol and water in phase B is (0.1-3):(0.1-5):(5-10).

4. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The polymer comprises any one or a combination of at least two of the following: polyacrylate crosslinker-6, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer; The polyols include any one or a combination of at least two of 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, or 1,2-pentanediol.

5. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The thickener includes any one or a combination of at least two of the following: synthetic wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, or beeswax.

6. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The mass ratio of the polar base oil to the non-polar alkanes is 1:(0.5-1.5). The polar base oil is a combination of cetyl ethylhexanoate and caprylic / capric triglyceride; The nonpolar alkane is a combination of C15-19 alkane and isohexadecane.

7. The makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The mass ratio of preservative to active ingredient in phase E is 1:(0.1-1). The active ingredients include any one or a combination of at least two of tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, nicotinamide, or centella asiatica extract; The preservative includes any one or a combination of at least two of 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

8. A method for preparing a makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that, The preparation method includes: S1. Mix water and polyol in phase B with phase E, then add the polymer in phase B, and mix to obtain a polymer dispersion. The oil phase (D phase), thickener (C phase), and surfactant (A phase) are mixed to obtain an oil phase liquid. S2. The polymer dispersion and the oil phase are mixed and homogenized to obtain the makeup removal composition based on the multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network.

9. The preparation method according to claim 8, characterized in that, The oil phase liquid preparation temperature in step S1 is 80-90℃; In step S2, the mixing and homogenization process involves a rotation speed of 2000-3000 rpm and a temperature of 80-90℃.

10. The use of a makeup remover composition based on a multidimensional gradient HLB microemulsion gel network as described in any one of claims 1-7 in the preparation of cosmetics.

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