Compositions comprising a cresoltriazole trisiloxane, a hydrophilic organic screening agent (wherein the mass ratio of hydrophilic organic screening agent / lipophilic organic screening agent is greater than 0.3) and free of alcohol

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) a methylphenoltriazole trisiloxane; and b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent; the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent and the lipophilic organic UV-screening agent is greater than 0.3; the amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to a composition, and particularly to a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising cresoltrazol trisiloxane, optionally at least one other lipophilic organic UV blocker besides cresoltrazol trisiloxane, and at least one hydrophilic organic UV blocker, wherein the mass ratio of the hydrophilic organic UV blocker to the lipophilic organic UV blocker is greater than 0.3, and the amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer. Technical Field

[0002] To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions have been known for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly skin, from the harmful effects of UVA and / or UVB radiation. Most of them contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV-blocking agents delivered as anti-UV active agents in an oil and / or aqueous phase, and are typically offered in emulsion or gel form.

[0003] It is also known that a high concentration of masking agent is required to achieve a high level of masking efficiency.

[0004] However, high concentrations of UV masking agents do not easily produce compositions with a stable and pleasing texture.

[0005] Therefore, formulations with high opacity may have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects that mask the freshness and comfort of the formulation. In particular, the difficulty with light-protective formulations with high protection factors is often limiting or even avoiding a strong greasy and sticky feeling, as well as the resulting lack of lightness in texture and a whitening appearance upon application, thus not being invisible on the skin.

[0006] In addition, cosmetic compositions sometimes cause sensory discomfort such as "flaking," which refers to the formation of flaky particles when the product is applied and / or after the product dries and / or penetrates the skin. This phenomenon is notably noticeable when the sunscreen composition contains high levels of hydrophilic opacifiers.

[0007] This defect deters users because the application is neither even nor pleasant, given the flaking effect during application or removal. It also leaves the skin feeling "greasy." This can significantly impact the photoprotective properties of sunscreen compositions.

[0008] To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, and especially to achieve a refreshing effect upon application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous formulations have been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV-blocking agents can be sticky and therefore uncomfortable, and are also very prone to flowing.

[0009] It has also been proposed to use polymers to construct aqueous gels containing masking agents. However, this solution is unsatisfactory because the structured polymers typically chosen are not always very resistant to electrolytes and may also reduce the sensory properties of the composition in terms of stickiness.

[0010] To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV-masking agents in combination with other specific compounds has been considered.

[0011] Therefore, the combined use of clay-type mineral thickeners has been proposed to stabilize compositions and optionally reduce the stickiness of photoprotective compositions. However, clay can cause compositions to turn white, and these compositions then lose their transparent properties.

[0012] Therefore, it is difficult to reconcile opposing technical performance qualities, such as high levels of UV protection (which often results in an oily and sticky feeling on the skin) and pleasant sensory aspects, particularly those manifested by a refreshing feel and no flaking, in the same photoprotective composition.

[0013] There is still a need for a light-protective composition that offers a high level of UV protection and is advantageously transparent to the skin.

[0014] In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, pleasant sensory properties, no lint formation during and after application, an advantageously refreshing feel, and preferably a transparent coating on the skin.

[0015] The demand for such light protection compositions is even greater due to the rapid growth of the daily light protection market. The number of hybrid products offering skin care and SPF 15-20 protection is increasing, but the challenge remains achieving higher SPF values ​​(e.g., greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50) and a pleasant sensory experience for daily application.

[0016] Therefore, we seek products that have a high SPF while maintaining skincare benefits in terms of sensory indicators: appearance, texture, consistency, and sensory aspects.

[0017] In particular, the object of the present invention is to develop a product that provides good uniformity of composition and good deposition quality of composition on the skin, so as to notably obtain advantageous sensory aspects, such as reduced or even no lint during and after application, while providing a high level of daily light protection.

[0018] There is also a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection that is completely stable, i.e., does not delaminate.

[0019] This invention is precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the Invention

[0020] Therefore, one subject of the present invention is a composition, and particularly a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0021] a) Cresoltrazol trisiloxane and optionally at least one other lipophilic organic UV-blocking agent besides cresoltrazol trisiloxane; and

[0022] b) At least one hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent;

[0023] The mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is greater than 0.3;

[0024] The amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] According to specific embodiments, the subject of this invention is a composition, and particularly a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0026] a) Cresoltrazol trisiloxane and optionally at least one other lipophilic organic UV shielding agent besides cresoltrazol trisiloxane;

[0027] b) At least one hydrophilic organic UV-blocking agent; and

[0028] c) At least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer;

[0029] The mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is greater than 0.3;

[0030] The amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Preferably, the amount of ethanol in the composition according to the invention is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight. More preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain ethanol.

[0032] Contrary to all expectations, the inventors have discovered that using cresoltrazol trisiloxane in combination with one or more hydrophilic organic UV-blocking agents in a photoprotective composition, wherein the mass ratio of the hydrophilic organic UV-blocking agent to the lipophilic organic UV-blocking agent is greater than 0.3 and the amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, provides a presentation with high photoprotective capabilities and good cosmetic properties, which, in particular, does not form lint during and after application, is non-greasy, non-sticky, and non-shine-free, and remains stable over time.

[0033] Advantageously, the use of this composition provides a stable presentation with a pleasant sensory aspect for everyday use and high UV protection.

[0034] Therefore, this light-protective composition advantageously allows for the combination of typically antagonistic properties.

[0035] According to another aspect of the invention, the subject matter of the invention is still the use of the compositions as defined above for the care of keratin materials, particularly body and / or facial skin.

[0036] According to yet another aspect of the invention, the subject matter of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for applying makeup and / or care to keratin materials, particularly body and / or facial skin, the method comprising at least applying a composition as previously defined to said keratin material.

[0037] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or evenness of skin tone, the method comprising applying at least one composition as previously defined to the surface of a keratin material.

[0038] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating signs of aging of keratin materials, the method comprising applying at least one composition as previously defined to the surface of the keratin material.

[0039] The compositions according to the invention exhibit good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage at room temperature (25°C), 4°C, 45°C, or 55°C for one week, one month, or two months. Stable compositions generally maintain their comfort and sensory characteristics upon application over time. More specifically, the stability of the composition can be qualitatively assessed, for example, by the absence of any phase separation or crystallization, or quantitatively assessed by monitoring changes in parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0040] For the purposes of this invention, "flaking" includes the appearance of solid, persistent particles on the skin surface during application. These particles are visible and perceptible on the fingers.

[0041] In the context of this invention, the shielding effectiveness is evaluated by assessing SPF and UVAPF.

[0042] For the purposes of this invention, the term “SPF” refers to the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with a sunscreen composition and the minimum time without using the product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the article *A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum*, *Journal of the Soc. Cosmet. Chem.*, 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0043] SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. A plate is the material used to apply the sunscreen composition. For such a protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A specific protocol presented as an example is currently being approved by ISO under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0044] The assessment of the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition can also be performed in vivo in accordance with the protocol ISO / EN 24444:2019 "Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0045] For the purposes of this invention, the term "UVAPF" should be understood to refer to an indicator characterizing protection against UVA rays. Specifically, this indicator can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigmentation) method (protocol ISO-24442:2022) and by measuring skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA rays. Protection against UVA rays can also be evaluated in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. A plate is the material used to apply the sunscreen composition. For such an application, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. Such an in vitro method is described in protocol ISO 24443:2021.

[0046] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the following detailed description.

[0047] The compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application and therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" here means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0048] In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin, scalp, keratin fibers (such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails), mucous membranes (such as lips), and more particularly skin and mucous membranes (body, face, periorbital area, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0049] In the following text, unless otherwise specified, the limits of the range of values ​​are included within that range, especially in expressions such as “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

[0050] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this specification are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”, respectively.

[0051] According to the present invention, the terms "preventing" or "prevention" mean reducing the risk of a given phenomenon (i.e., signs of aging of keratin materials according to the present invention) or slowing down the occurrence of such a given phenomenon.

[0052] The term "organic UVA shielding agent" refers to any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range of at least 320 to 400 nm; said molecule may also absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm.

[0053] The term "organic UVB shielding agent" refers to any organic chemical molecule that can absorb UVB radiation only in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0054] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0055] The term "emulsion" refers to any kinetically stable, macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two immiscible phases, one of which is a continuous dispersed phase and the other phase is dispersed in droplets within said continuous phase. The two phases are typically stabilized kinetically by at least one emulsifying system, which usually contains at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0056] There is a distinction between water-in-oil emulsions (called "direct") consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersion and a discontinuous oil dispersion, and oil-in-water emulsions (called "reverse emulsions") consisting of a continuous oil dispersion and a discontinuous aqueous dispersion. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil. Detailed Implementation

[0057] UV shielding agent

[0058] The composition according to the invention comprises cresoltrazol trisiloxane and at least one hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent. It may also comprise at least one other lipophilic organic UV shielding agent besides cresoltrazol trisiloxane.

[0059] Lipophilic organic UV shielding agent

[0060] The term "lipophilic organic shielding agent" refers to any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound used to shield against UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in the liquid fat phase in molecular form or in colloidal form (e.g., in micelles) in the liquid fat phase.

[0061] Lipophilic organic masking agents are particularly selected from cinnamon compounds, anthranilic acid ester compounds, salicylic acid compounds, benzoylmethane compounds, benzyl camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and benzylmalonate compounds, especially those referenced in patent US 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives, imidazoline compounds, bis-benzoazole compounds as described in patents EP 669,323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds as described in patent applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2,303,549, DE 197,261,84 and EP 893,119; and benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0,832,642, EP 1, EP 1, EP 1 Masking polymers and masking silicones as described in 300 137 and DE 101 62 844, especially those described in patent application WO 93 / 04665; dimerized α-alkylstyrene derivatives as described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in patent applications EP 0967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Preferably, the lipophilic organic masking agent is selected from salicylic acid compounds, benzoylmethane compounds, benzyl camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotectants include those referred to below by their INCI names and / or their chemical names.

[0064] Cinnamon compounds:

[0065] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, especially marketed by DSM Nutritional Products under the brand name Parsol® MCX,

[0066] Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, marketed by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000®,

[0067] Benzoylmethane compounds:

[0068] Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, especially sold by DSM Nutrition Products under the trade name Parsol® 1789.

[0069] Salicylic acid compounds:

[0070] Homosalate, marketed by DSM Nutrition Products under the name Parsol® HMS,

[0071] Ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan® OS.

[0072] β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:

[0073] Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, especially marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T.

[0074] Benzophenone compounds:

[0075] Benzophenone-3 or hydroxybenzophenone, marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® M 40.

[0076] (Diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl)hexyl benzoate is marketed by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus, or as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B.

[0077] benzyl camphor compounds:

[0078] 4-Methylbenzyl camphor, marketed by Merck under the name Eusolex® 6300,

[0079] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

[0080] Cresoltrazol trisiloxane, manufactured by Noval under the name Mexoryl® XL.

[0081] Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0082] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in solid form, such as the product marketed by Fairmount Chemical under the trade name Mixcim BB / 100®.

[0083] Triazine compounds:

[0084] -3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), which has the INCI name phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine.

[0085] -Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, marketed by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® S

[0086] -Ethylhexyltriazine, especially sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul® T150.

[0087] - Diethylhexylbutamidotriazinone, marketed by 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB.

[0088] - Symmetrical triazine masking agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, as described in patent US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004 / 085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the literature “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM, IPCOM000031257, Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004).

[0089] o-aminobenzoic acid compounds:

[0090] Menthyl anthranilate, marketed by Symrise under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA,

[0091] benzyl malonate compounds:

[0092] Polysiloxanes with benzyl malonic acid ester functional groups, such as polysiloxane-15 marketed by Hoffmann-LaRoche under the trade name Parsol SLX®.

[0093] Hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent

[0094] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrophilic organic UV masking agent" means water-soluble organic UV masking agent or water-dispersible organic UV masking agent.

[0095] The term "water-soluble organic masking agent" refers to any organic masking agent that can be completely dissolved in a liquid aqueous phase in molecular form or in a liquid aqueous phase in colloidal form (e.g., in micelle form).

[0096] The term "water-dispersible organic masking agent" refers to any organic masking agent capable of forming a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 micrometers in an aqueous liquid phase. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

[0097] Among the water-soluble organic UVA-masking agents that can be used according to the present invention, benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphor)sulfonic acid (INCI name: terephthalimethylene dicamphorsulfonic acid) and its various salts may be mentioned, particularly as described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. In particular, benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalimethylene dicamphorsulfonic acid), such as products manufactured by Noval under the name Mexoryl® SX, may be mentioned.

[0098] These masking agents correspond to the following general formula (I):

[0099] [Chemical Formula 1]

[0100]

[0101] Where F represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or a group NH(R1)3 + The R1 group can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group, or a Mn group. + Mn + This represents a polyvalent metal cation, where n equals 2, 3, or 4, Mn + Preferably, it represents the product selected from Ca. 2+ Zn 2+ Mg 2+ Ba 2+ Al 3+ and Zr 4+Metal cations. It is clearly understood that compounds of formula (I) above can produce “cis-trans” isomers around one or more double bonds and all isomers fall within the context of this invention.

[0102] Among the water-soluble organic UVA masking agents that can be used according to the present invention, compounds containing at least two benzozolyl groups with sulfonic acid groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323, may also be mentioned.

[0103] These compounds are described and prepared according to the synthesis indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and patent application EP-A-0669323.

[0104] The compounds comprising at least two benzoxazole groups according to the present invention correspond to the following general formula (II):

[0105] [Chemical Formula 2]

[0106]

[0107] (II)

[0108] in,

[0109] -Z represents an organic residue with a valence of (l + n) containing one or more double bonds, which are arranged such that the residue completes the double bonds of at least two benzoxazole groups defined in square brackets, in order to form a fully conjugated assembly structure.

[0110] -X' indicates S, O, or NR. 6 ;

[0111] -R 1 Represents hydrogen atoms, C1 to C 18 Alkyl, C1 to C4 alkoxy, C5 to C 15 Aryl, C2 to C 18 Acyloxy group or group SO3Y or COOY;

[0112] -Group R 2 R 3 R 4 and R 5 They can be the same or different, representing nitro groups or radicals R. 1 ;

[0113] -R 6 Indicates a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl group, or a C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl group;

[0114] -Y represents a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, 1 / 2Ca, 1 / 2Mg, 1 / 3Al, or a cation generated by neutralizing a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;

[0115] -m is 0 or 1;

[0116] -n is a number from 2 to 6;

[0117] -l represents a number from 1 to 4;

[0118] -The premise is that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.

[0119] Among these compounds, 1,4-bis(benzimidazolyl)phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: disodium phenyldibenzimidazolium tetrasulfonate) or its salts are most particularly preferred, having the following structure, and are especially marketed by Symrise under the name Neo Heliopan® AP:

[0120] [Chemical Formula 3]

[0121]

[0122] Preferably, the water-soluble shielding agent capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalimethylene dicamphorsulfonic acid), such as the product manufactured by Noval under the name Mexoryl SX.

[0123] The water-soluble organic UVB-masking agents that can be used according to the present invention are particularly selected from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzyl camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic acid compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB blocking agents include phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), especially those marketed by Merck under the trade name Eusolex 232. ® Sale.

[0125] The compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one mixed water-soluble shielding agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0126] When the water-soluble UV shielding agent is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferred to combine it with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0127] The term "alkanolamine" refers to a C2-C structure containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group and at least one alcohol, typically a primary alcohol functional group. 10 Compounds. Suitable alkanolamines include 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

[0128] Among water-dispersible organic masking agents, the following masking agents can be mentioned.

[0129] Benzophenone compounds:

[0130] 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinidyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methyl ketone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in patent application WO 2007 / 071 584; this compound is advantageously used in a micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) and particularly in an aqueous dispersion form, which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization method described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119.

[0131] Methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

[0132] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, its

[0133] In at least one having structure C n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x H alkyl polysaccharide surfactants (where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is (C6H) 10 When the average degree of polymerization of the O5 units is in the range of 1.4 to 1.6, it takes the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size in the range of 0.01 to 5 µm, more preferably 0.01 to 2 µm, and more particularly 0.020 to 2 µm, such as the aqueous dispersion described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, especially the product sold by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® M, or

[0134] At least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C) having a degree of polymerization of at least 5 glycerol 20In the presence of alkyl esters, it exists as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 µm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 µm, such as the aqueous dispersion described in patent application WO 2009 / 063392, especially the product sold by BASF under the name Tinosorb WPGL.

[0135] Triazine compounds:

[0136] - bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, in its water-dispersible form, with the INCI name bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine (and) acrylate / methacrylic acid C12-22 alkyl ester copolymer, is marketed by BASF under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua.

[0137] - Symmetrical triazine masking agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, used in micronized form (average particle size 0.02 to 3 µm), which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization methods described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and especially in the form of aqueous dispersions, particularly marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B and included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985, consisting of 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine.

[0138] Benzoxazole compounds:

[0139] 2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazole-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, with CAS number 904-39-2.

[0140] According to a first specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one water-dispersible masking agent.

[0141] According to a second specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one water-soluble masking agent and at least one water-dispersible masking agent.

[0142] According to a third specific embodiment of the present invention, the amount of 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid).

[0144] For the purposes of this invention, the term "free of 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid)" means that the amount of 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] According to the fourth embodiment, the hydrophilic masking agent present in the composition is a water-dispersible masking agent.

[0146] In the composition according to the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent (the mass of the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent divided by the mass of the lipophilic organic UV masking agent) is greater than 0.3.

[0147] This ratio is calculated from the total concentration of the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent. Therefore, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is equal to the sum of the mass concentrations of the hydrophilic organic UV masking agents present in the composition divided by the sum of the mass concentrations of cresoltrazol trisiloxane and other lipophilic organic UV masking agents present in the composition.

[0148] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is between 0.35 and 1.

[0149] Inorganic UV shielding agent

[0150] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one inorganic UV shielding agent.

[0151] The inorganic UV-blocking agents that can be used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV-blocking agents of the present invention are metal oxide particles with an average basic particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are described in particular in Annex VI of European Cosmetics Regulation No. 1223 / 2009 (updated 22 September 2021), but are not limited to that list.

[0152] They can be selected, in particular, from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides, or mixtures thereof.

[0153] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are specifically described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercially available pigments that may be mentioned include products marketed by Croda, Tayca, and Merck.

[0154] Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

[0155] The coated pigment is a pigment that has been chemically, electronically, mechanically, and / or mechanically treated with compounds such as amino acids; beeswax; fatty acids; fatty alcohols; anionic surfactants; lecithin; sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts of fatty acids; metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum); polyethylene; silicone; proteins (collagen, elastin); alkanolamines; silicon dioxide; metal oxides; or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0156] The coated pigments are more specifically titanium oxides, which have been coated with the following:

[0157] - Hydrated silica, such as MT-100WP from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0158] -Silica and iron oxide, such as Sunveil F® from the company Ikeda;

[0159] - Silica and alumina, such as MT 500 SA® and MT 100 SA® from Imperial Chemical Industries and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda.

[0160] - Alumina, such as TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara Corporation,

[0161] - Alumina and aluminum stearate, such as MT 100 TV®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Imperial Chemical Industries, Solaveiil CT100 from Croda, and Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck.

[0162] -Silica, alumina, and alginate, such as MT-100 AQ® from Teikoku Chemical Company.

[0163] - Alumina and aluminum lauryl,

[0164] -Iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0165] - Zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0166] - Silica and alumina, treated with silicone, such as MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100 SAS® from Imperial Chemical Industries.

[0167] -Silica, aluminum oxide, aluminum stearate, and treated with silicone.

[0168] -Silica and treated with silicone.

[0169] - Alumina treated with silicone, such as TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara Corporation.

[0170] -Triethanolamine,

[0171] - Stearic acid, such as TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara S.A.,

[0172] - Sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0173] TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane

[0174] TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane

[0175] - Anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane

[0176] -TiO2 coated with triisooctanoic acid glyceride, aluminum stearate, and aluminum oxide, marketed by Croda Corporation under the trade name Solaveyil™ CT-200.

[0177] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina, and silicone, marketed by Croda Corporation under the trade name Solaveyil™ CT-12W.

[0178] -TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine

[0179] - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluorophosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0180] It may also be mentioned that TiO2 pigments are doped with at least one transition metal (such as iron, zinc, or manganese, and more particularly manganese). Preferably, the doped pigment is in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / capric acid. The oily dispersion of the titanium oxide particles may also contain one or more dispersants, such as sorbitan esters, such as sorbitan isostearate, or polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of the titanium oxide particles contains at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters of glycerol. More specifically, an oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in decanoic acid / caprylic acid triglycerides may be mentioned in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate, polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, and sorbitan isostearate, having the following INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, or a product marketed by Croda under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1.

[0181] Uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are, for example, sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the trade names MT-500B and MT-600B® or by Evonik under the trade name Degussa P 25.

[0182] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0183] - Those sold by BASF under the name Z-Cote®;

[0184] - Those sold by Nanophase Technologies under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide.

[0185] The coated zinc oxide pigment is, for example:

[0186] -ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane;

[0187] - Solaveyil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: zinc oxide (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid;

[0188] - Those sold by Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by Daitopersion Corporation (dispersions in C9-12 alkanes with a dispersant).

[0189] - Those sold by Shin-Etsu under the name SPD-Z5® (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0190] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can be, for example, those sold by Solvay under the name Rhodigard® W185.

[0191] It may also be mentioned that metal oxides, especially mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, include equal weight mixtures of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0192] When the composition according to the invention contains an inorganic UV masking agent, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0193] According to the present invention, the composition does not contain inorganic masking agents.

[0194] For the purposes of this invention, the phrase "free of inorganic UV shielding agent" should be understood to mean that the amount of inorganic UV shielding agent is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight.

[0195] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent is between 5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0197] According to a specific embodiment, the total amount of UV shielding agent present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV shielding agent present in the composition is between 15% and 35% relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 18% and 25% by weight.

[0198] For the purposes of this invention, the term "total amount of UV masking agent" means the sum of the concentrations of each UV masking agent present in the composition (particularly lipophilic organic UV masking agents, hydrophilic organic UV masking agents, and inorganic UV masking agents).

[0199] hydrophilic AMPS copolymer

[0200] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer containing at least one acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®).

[0201] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polymer" means a polymer comprising at least two different monomer units.

[0202] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrophilic polymer" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means a polymer that, when introduced into an aqueous phase at a mass concentration of 1% at 25°C, enables the production of a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e., a solution having a maximum transmittance of at least 60%, and preferably at least 70%, through a 1 cm thick sample at a wavelength of 500 nm.

[0203] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer, which comprises at least a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®) in free form or in a form partially or completely neutralized by: an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia) or an organic base (such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucosamine), a basic amino acid (such as arginine and lysine), and mixtures thereof.

[0204] They are preferably all or almost all neutralized, that is, at least 90% neutralized.

[0205] The AMPS® copolymers according to the present invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

[0206] The term "crosslinked polymer" refers to a non-linear copolymer that is insoluble in water but can swell in water, resulting in a chemical gel.

[0207] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agent can be selected from polyene unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by free radical polymerization.

[0208] As crosslinking agents, examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polydiethylene glycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethylacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallyl ethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl ethers or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0209] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate, and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking typically ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% relative to the polymer, and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol%.

[0210] According to the present invention, the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably correspond to the following general formula:

[0211] [Chemical Formula 4]

[0212]

[0213] Where X + R1 represents a cation counterion, particularly an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, such as methyl, and R1 preferably represents a hydrogen atom.

[0214] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer according to the present invention is partially or completely salted in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0215] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer according to the invention is fully salted, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0216] The AMPS® polymers used in this invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers, and if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above. When the copolymer includes hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not contain aliphatic chains.

[0217] According to a first specific embodiment, in the copolymer obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers and, if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents (as defined above), the hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers do not contain aliphatic chains and are preferably present in small amounts.

[0218] According to a second specific embodiment, in a copolymer obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers and, if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents (as defined above), the hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers contain at least one aliphatic chain.

[0219] For the purposes of this invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0220] The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the present invention contain water-soluble olefinic unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, or mixtures thereof.

[0221] The water-soluble comonomer can be ionic or nonionic. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble comonomer is nonionic.

[0222] Among the water-soluble comonomers of ions, examples that can be mentioned include the following compounds and their salts:

[0223] -Styrenesulfonic acid,

[0224] -Vinylsulfonic acid and (methyl)allylsulfonic acid,

[0225] -Vinylphosphonic acid,

[0226] -Malic acid

[0227] -Itaconic acid,

[0228] -crotonic acid,

[0229] -Water-soluble vinyl monomers with the following formula:

[0230] [Chemical Formula 5]

[0231]

[0232] in:

[0233] -R1 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0234] -X1 is selected from:

[0235] --OR2 type alkyl oxides, where R2 contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms and is surrounded by at least one sulfonic acid group (-SO3). - ) and / or sulfate group (-SO4)- ) and / or phosphate groups (-PO4) 2- ( ) A straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group substituted with a group.

[0236] Among nonionic water-soluble comonomers, the following deserves special mention:

[0237] -N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

[0238] -N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

[0239] -Maleic anhydride

[0240] - Ethyleneamine,

[0241] -Including cycloalkyl N-vinyl lactams containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam, and N-vinylcaprolactam.

[0242] Vinyl alcohol with the formula CH2=CHOH

[0243] -Water-soluble vinyl monomers with the following formula:

[0244] [Chemical Formula 6]

[0245]

[0246] in:

[0247] -R3 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7;

[0248] -X2 is selected from alkyl oxides of the -OR4 type, where R4 is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may optionally be replaced by: a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; or an ether.

[0249] The text refers to (meth)acrylates such as glyceryl methacrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, or polyalkylene glycol.

[0250] Among hydrophobic comonomers without aliphatic chains, for example:

[0251] - Styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

[0252] Vinyl acetate of the formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3;

[0253] - A vinyl ether of the formula CH2=CHOR, wherein R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0254] - Acrylonitrile;

[0255] -Caprolactone;

[0256] - Vinylon chloride and vinylidene chloride;

[0257] -Siloxane derivatives, which, after polymerization, produce siloxane polymers, such as methacryloyloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and siloxane methacrylamide;

[0258] - Hydrophobic vinyl monomers with the following formula:

[0259] [Chemical Formula 7]

[0260]

[0261] in:

[0262] -R4 is selected from H, -CH3, -C2H5, and -C3H7;

[0263] -X3 is selected from:

[0264] --OR5 type alkyl oxides, where R5 is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0265] For example, it mentions methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate, and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

[0266] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymer of the present invention preferably has a molar mass in the range of 50,000 g / mol to 100,000,000 g / mol, more preferably 80,000 g / mol to 100,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably 100,000 g / mol to 70,000,000 g / mol.

[0267] Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the present invention include:

[0268] -A copolymer of AMPS® with vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl formamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC® (CTFA name: ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer), but which is neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

[0269] -A copolymer of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, as used in products sold by SEPPIC under the name Simulgel NS® (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or as sold under the name acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer) from SEPPIC.

[0270] As a preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer according to the present invention, the copolymer of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate may be mentioned.

[0271] Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers that can be used in the context of this invention, reference may also be made to copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, at least one monomer having a hydrophobic group, and at least one olefinic unsaturated monomer that does not contain any hydrophobic group.

[0272] Preferably, when the water-soluble, water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, at least one monomer having a hydrophobic group, and at least one olefinic unsaturated monomer not containing any hydrophobic group, the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based fatty acid chain containing 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

[0273] Copolymers can be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.

[0274] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the AMPS copolymer is crosslinked.

[0275] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymers are crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferably, they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0276] AMPS® copolymers may also contain at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group, which is preferably an olefinic unsaturated monomer containing at least one chain of aliphatic hydrocarbons comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0277] Monomers with hydrophobic groups are preferably selected from acrylates or acrylamides having the following formula:

[0278] [Chemical Formula 8]

[0279]

[0280] Wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably methyl; Y represents O or NH; R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x represents a number ranging from 0 to 100.

[0281] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, Y represents an oxygen atom.

[0282] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, group R1 represents methyl.

[0283] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

[0284] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, in Formula 8, group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0285] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in Formula 8, Y represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents a methyl group, group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

[0286] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic monomer of Formula 8 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to a compound of Formula 8 in which the group Y represents O, the group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 carbon atoms and x equals 4.

[0287] Preferably, the monomer having a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0288] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the AMPS® copolymer may contain at least one monomer of formula 8, wherein x equals 0, Y represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents a methyl group, and group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0289] In this embodiment, the monomer with the hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

[0290] According to a specific embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 (where x equals 0, Y preferably represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents methyl, and group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms), and at least one monomer of formula 8 (where Y represents an oxygen atom, group R1 represents methyl, group R2 represents an alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer from 3 to 25, and x preferably equals 4).

[0291] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises lauryl methacrylate as a monomer having a hydrophobic group and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0292] AMPS® copolymers also contain at least one olefinically unsaturated monomer that does not contain any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:

[0293] [Chemical Formula 9]

[0294]

[0295] Wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, R1 preferably represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, and R3 represents a straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, and R2 and R3 preferably represent methyl groups.

[0296] The olefinic unsaturated monomers that do not contain any hydrophobic groups are selected from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acid and its esters ((meth)acrylates) such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, N-(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides and N,N-di(C1-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0297] Preferably, the olefinic unsaturated monomer that does not contain any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0298] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is selected from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (preferably fully salted), N,N-dimethylacrylamide, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate (preferably crosslinked), such as copolymers sold by Sepimax Corporation under the name Sepimax Zen and having the INCI name polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6.

[0299] According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, as used in a commercial product sold by Sepink Company under the name Simulgel NS® (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or as sold under the name acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as Sepink Company's commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer).

[0300] The above-mentioned AMPS® copolymer may be present at a concentration of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0301] filler

[0302] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acyl amino acid powder.

[0303] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white mineral or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the medium in which the composition is produced, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced.

[0304] The fillers used in this invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as volume average diameter D(4,3), their untapered density, and / or their oil absorption capacity.

[0305] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by a nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Bruno-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, and corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0306] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: S V = S M x ρ; where ρ is expressed in g / cm³ 3 The solid density is represented by S. M For m 2 / g represents the specific surface area per unit mass, as defined above.

[0307] In the context of this invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following scheme (referred to as the tap density scheme):

[0308] Pour 40 g of powder into a graduated cylinder; then place the cylinder on a Stav 2003 machine from the Stampf Volumeter; subsequently perform a series of 2500 tapping cycles on the cylinder (repeat this operation until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); and then measure the final volume Vf of the tapped powder directly on the cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, which in this case is 40 / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm³).3 (This is represented by g).

[0309] The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point and expressed as Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil required to be added to 100 g of granules in order to obtain a uniform paste.

[0310] It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil absorption rate of powder as described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the usable surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder, as determined by measuring the wet point:

[0311] A certain amount of powder, m = 2 g, is placed on a glass plate, and then oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until an aggregate of oil and powder forms. From this point on, add one drop of oil at a time and then grind the mixture with a spatula. When a firm, smooth paste is obtained, stop adding oil. This paste must be able to spread on a glass plate without breaking or forming clumps. The volume Vs of oil used is then recorded (in ml).

[0312] The oil absorption rate corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0313] The size of the filler material can be measured using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern Corporation via static light scattering. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles, allowing the determination of the “effective” particle size even in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is specifically described in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0314] According to specific embodiments, the filler that can be used in this invention has an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably 0.93 g / g to 2.5 g / g, or even 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g.

[0315] According to specific embodiments, the fillers that can be used in this invention have a size represented as a volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 1 µm to 16 µm.

[0316] According to a specific embodiment, the filler used in this invention has a content in the range of 0.2 g / cm³. 3 Up to 2.2 g / cm3 The non-vibrating density.

[0317] According to specific embodiments, they have a range of 30 m 2 / g to 1000 m 2 / g and more specifically 150 m 2 / g to 800 m 2 Specific surface area per g.

[0318] In this patent application, the term "spherical particles" means particles that are in spherical or substantially spherical form and are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).

[0319] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as a volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm, and most preferably from 1 to 16 µm.

[0320] Examples of porous silica microspheres include the following commercial products: SB-150, SB-300, or SB 700 silica 35 beads from Myoshi Kasei, preferably SB 300; the Sunsphere series from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, especially Sunsphere H-51, Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52, and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; and the Silica Pearl and Satinier series from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, particularly Satinier M13 and Satinier. M16 silica, MSS-500 silica from Kobo, and more specifically MSS-500-20N, as well as Silica Shells from Kobo.

[0321] According to specific embodiments, the spherical cellulose particles that can be used in the context of this invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as a volume average diameter D(4,3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, more preferably from 1 to 20 µm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.

[0322] As an example of spherical cellulose microparticles, one can particularly mention the solid cellulose beads sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5, and Cellulobeads USF.

[0323] N-acyl amino acids may contain an acyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine, preferably lysine.

[0324] According to specific embodiments, the N-acyl amino acid comprises an acyl group containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acyl amino acid powder may be lauroyl lysine powder, such as a product sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amihope LL or by Corum under the name Corum 5105 S.

[0325] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acyl amino acid powder has a non-uniform particle size, that is, a large size distribution for a given size expressed as volume average diameter.

[0326] According to one specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three fillers selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acyl amino acid powder.

[0327] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three different fillers, wherein the first is selected from spherical porous silica particles, particularly spherical porous silica microparticles, the second is selected from spherical cellulose particles, and the third is selected from N-acyl amino acid powder.

[0328] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acyl amino acid powder is between 1% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight. According to another preferred embodiment, the mass ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acyl amino acid powder) / (spherical porous silica particles) is between 0.25 and 1.

[0329] The compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one additional filler other than spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acyl amino acid powder.

[0330] Fat phase

[0331] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0332] The fatty phase can consist of all fatty substances commonly used in the fields of cosmetics or dermatology. It may, in particular, contain at least one oil. The fatty phase also contains lipophilic masking agents present in the composition.

[0333] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20°C–25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0334] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that evaporates in less than one hour upon contact with skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil of this invention is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at room temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10⁻⁶ Pa). -3 Vapor pressures ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

[0335] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and particularly has a viscosity of less than 10 ppm. -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0336] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil that primarily comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms, particularly nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may, in particular, contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid, and / or alcohol groups.

[0337] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil that contains at least one silicon atom and, in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0338] As a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used according to the present invention, it is particularly worth mentioning that:

[0339] (i) Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides, which are typically fatty acid triesters of glycerol, whose fatty acids can have a range from C4 to C6. 24Varying chain lengths, these chains may be straight or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are particularly wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame seed oil, zucchini oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and musk rose oil; or alternatively, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810®, 812®, and 818®;

[0340] (ii) Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0341] (iii) Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;

[0342] (iv) Synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RCOOR', where R represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain (especially branched) containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' ≥ 10, such as purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (such as products sold by Witco under the trade names Finsolv TN® or WitconolTN®, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegosoft TN®), 2-ethylphenyl benzoate (such as products sold by ISP under the name X-Tend). The following are prohibited from use: commercial products sold under 226®; isopropyl lanolinate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate (such as products sold by Stearinerie Dubois under the name Dub Dis); octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearate lactate, diisostearate malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold by Enichem Augusta Industriale under the name Cosmacol ETI®, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold by the same company under the name Cosmacol ETL®; acetates;

[0343] (v) Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol.

[0344] (vi) Higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid;

[0345] (vii) Carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, as in products sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol CC®;

[0346] and its mixtures.

[0347] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, triglycerides, especially caprylic / capric triglycerides, synthetic esters, especially diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucic acid, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, especially octyldodecyl alcohol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are selected from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dioctyl carbonate.

[0348] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the present invention, particular reference may be made to hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0349] Also mentioned are the alkanes (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom) described in Corning's patent applications WO 2007 / 068 371 or WO 2008 / 155 059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which themselves are obtained from coconut kernel oil or palm oil. Mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tetrazane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Corning's patent application WO 2008 / 155059 may also be mentioned. Also mentioned are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof, sold by Sasol under their respective index numbers Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97.

[0350] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, can also be used, especially those marketed by Shell under the name Shell Solt®. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from oils and mixtures thereof containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms based on volatile hydrocarbons.

[0351] Non-volatile silicone oils may be selected in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups (each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms) at the side chains and / or ends of the polysiloxane chain; or phenyl polysiloxanes, such as phenyltrimethylpolysiloxane, phenyldimethylpolysiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, or 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0352] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centiliters (8 × 10⁻⁶). -6 m 2 (s) and especially those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in this invention, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, are particularly mentioned.

[0353] Straight-chain volatile alkyl trisiloxanes can also be mentioned, such as:

[0354] 3-Butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

[0355] 3-Propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

[0356] 3-Ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

[0357] Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecylfluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof, can also be used.

[0358] The fatty phase according to the invention may also contain other fatty substances that are mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[0359] Another fatty substance that can exist in the oil phase can be, for example:

[0360] - Fatty acids, selected from fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms other than fatty chain amino acids as previously defined, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0361] - Gum, selected from silicone resin (polydimethylsiloxane);

[0362] - Paste-like compounds, such as polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, esters of oligomeric glycerols, arachidonic acid propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;

[0363] - and its mixtures.

[0364] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the total fatty phase (including all lipophilic substances of the composition that are soluble in the same phase, including lipophilic masking agents) accounts for 20% to 70% by weight, and preferably 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0365] Aqueous phase

[0366] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0367] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

[0368] The aqueous phase suitable for use in this invention may include, for example, water selected from natural springs, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc, or water or floral water from Vichy.

[0369] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for use in this invention include short-chain alcohols, and particularly monohydric alcohols containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol, dihydric or polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0370] The composition according to the invention contains ethanol in an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition does not contain ethanol.

[0372] For the purposes of this invention, the term "ethanol-free" means that the ethanol content is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight.

[0373] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the entire aqueous phase (including all hydrophilic substances of the composition that are soluble in the same phase) accounts for 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0374] Cosmetic active ingredients

[0375] The compositions of the present invention may contain at least one cosmetic surfactant.

[0376] Examples of cosmetic active agents that may be mentioned include moisturizers; natural extracts; vitamins and their derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; firming agents; agents that act on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0377] Those skilled in the art can readily adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the intended use of the composition according to the invention.

[0378] Other adjuvants or additives

[0379] The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, additional thickeners, pH adjusters, additional fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0380] Those skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0381] Presentation format

[0382] According to specific embodiments, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 500 mPa·s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa·s.

[0383] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa·s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa·s.

[0384] Viscosity was measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180® rheometer from Maple Instruments, with a TV 2 rotor at 200 rpm for 10 minutes. Viscosity values ​​were obtained in Pa·s.

[0385] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared using techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be, in particular, in simple or complex emulsion forms (O / W, W / O, O / W / O, or W / O / W), such as creams, emulsions, or cream gels.

[0386] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It can be, in particular, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or an oil-in-water emulsion (reverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0387] When the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, the emulsification methods that can be used are impeller or blade, rotor-stator, and HPH type.

[0388] To obtain a stable emulsion with low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio > 25), a dispersion can be prepared in the concentrated phase and then diluted with the remaining aqueous phase.

[0389] Stable dispersions with droplet sizes as small as 100 nm can also be obtained via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar).

[0390] Emulsions typically contain at least one emulsifier selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifier is appropriately selected based on the desired emulsion (W / O or O / W).

[0391] Examples of W / O nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitol, glycerol, polyols, or sugars; silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, like mixtures of cyclomethicone and polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 5225 C®; and alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as lauryl polymethylsiloxane copolyols sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Additives; cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, such as those sold by High Schmidt under the name Abil EM90R®; and mixtures of cetyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, polyglycerol isostearate (4 mol), and hexyl laurate, sold by High Schmidt under the name Abil WE O9®. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which may be advantageously selected from the group containing polyol alkyl esters.

[0392] Non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, especially sorbitol, glycerol, polyols, or alkyl esters or ethers of sugars, may also be mentioned.

[0393] Alkyl polyol esters that may be mentioned in particular include polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dimer hydroxystearate, as sold by Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) under the name Arlacel P135®.

[0394] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold by High Schmidt under the name Isolan GI 34®; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 987®; sorbitan glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 986®, and mixtures thereof.

[0395] For O / W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include polyoxyalkylene (more particularly polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as polyethylene glycol stearate with the INCI name PEG-100 stearate, sold by Croda under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG); oxyalkylene esters of fatty acids and sorbitol; polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) esters of fatty acids, optionally combined with esters of fatty acids and glycerol, such as PEG-100 stearate / glycerol stearate mixtures, for example, sold by Imperial Chemical Industries under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example, sold by Henkel under the corresponding name Plantaren. Sold as 2000® and Plantaren 1200®; cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example, sold by Seppic under the name Montanov 68®, by High Schmidt under the name Tegocare CG90®, and by Henkel under the name EmulgadeKE3302®; and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside, sold by Seppic under the name Montanov 202®. According to specific embodiments of the invention, mixtures of alkyl polyglucosides as defined above with corresponding fatty alcohols can be in the form of self-emulsifying compositions, for example, as described in WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0396] As an anionic surfactant that enables the production of O / W emulsions, one could mention an anionic surfactant selected from those using at least one C8-C... 30 C8-C is preferred. 24 Hydrocarbon-based chain-modified amino acids and their salts, particularly acylglutamic acid (INCI name: acylglutamic acid) or its salts (acylglutamate salts), such as stearoylglutamic acid or its salts, especially sodium stearoylglutamate (INCI name) surfactants.

[0397] These compounds are sold by Ajinomoto Co. under the name Amisoft and especially under the index numbers Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even by Corning Co. under the name Eumulgin SG.

[0398] As anionic surfactants enabling the production of O / W emulsions, hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, particularly inulin modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, especially C8-C carbamate, can also be mentioned. 18 Alkyl ester groups, and more particularly carbamate lauryl groups.

[0399] Examples of these compounds that can be mentioned in particular include the product marketed by Creachem under the name Inutec SL1.

[0400] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of the emulsion may contain a nonionic capsule dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. [Journal of Molecular Biology] 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2416 008).

[0401] The compositions according to the invention can be applied to many treatments, especially for cosmetic treatments of skin, lips and hair (including scalp), particularly for protecting and / or caring for skin, lips and / or hair and / or for applying makeup to skin and / or lips.

[0402] Another subject of the invention includes the use of compositions according to the invention as defined above in the manufacture of products for cosmetic treatment of skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, particularly care products, sun protection products and cosmetic products. Example

[0403] The invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, these examples enable the display of specific features, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0404] In these examples, the amount of the components present in the composition is given as a weight percentage of the starting materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0405] Method for preparing the composition shown

[0406] Phase A is prepared as follows:

[0407] The starting materials of phases A1 and A2 are introduced into a beaker and heated to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion is continued until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0408] Introduce the starting material of phase A3. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained, while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

[0409] Phase B is prepared as follows:

[0410] The starting material of phase B1 was introduced into a beaker and heated to 75°C with stirring using a spatula. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.

[0411] Stop heating and add the starting material of phase B2 while stirring, followed by the starting material of phase B3. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and maintain the temperature at 65°C.

[0412] At 65°C, with rotor-stator and scraper stirring, phase A is slowly poured into phase B.

[0413] Disperse until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

[0414] Diluted by introducing phase C under stirring.

[0415] Disperse the mixture under the stirring of the rotor-stator and scraper until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while simultaneously beginning to cool.

[0416] Continue cooling only with scraper agitation.

[0417] At a temperature < 30°C, starter materials of phases D and E are added.

[0418] Disperse the mixture under rotor-stator and scraper stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while continuing to cool.

[0419] If necessary, continue cooling only with scraper agitation.

[0420] Introduce phases F and G.

[0421] Disperse using only a scraper agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while maintaining a constant temperature.

[0422] Confocal microscopy studies

[0423] Microscopic studies of the composition were conducted using a Leica SP8 confocal microscope.

[0424] The advantage of confocal mode is that, due to the presence of an aperture stop at the detector, it provides very high sharpness to the observed focal plane. Therefore, only photons from the focal plane are observed.

[0425] Displacement can be performed in three spatial dimensions: X, Y, and Z. X and Y represent the lateral displacement of the sample, and Z represents the thickness of the sample.

[0426] Use an x63 oil immersion objective to observe the sample in order to allow for optical contact.

[0427] Two studies were conducted using confocal fluorescence microscopy.

[0428] The first study included observing the uniformity of the emulsion (volume), while the second study allowed for observing the uniformity of the deposit (spreading and drying of the composition on a glass slide).

[0429] To label the sample, 5 µL of 10 -2 mol.L -1 A fluorophore solution was added to approximately 2 g of each of the compositions studied. The labeling step was performed 24 hours prior to observation to allow for good diffusion of the fluorophore.

[0430] Two markers (fluorophores) were used in this study: fluorescein for the aqueous phase and Nile red for the fatty phase.

[0431] Confocal fluorescence microscopy allows for the selective observation of each phase of an emulsion by exciting fluorophores at their respective excitation wavelengths.

[0432] For the aqueous phase, the laser excites luciferin molecules in the blue light range (458 nm), which then re-emit in the green light range (500-550 nm).

[0433] For the oil phase, the laser excites Nile Red molecules in the yellow light range (561 nm), which then re-emit in the red light range (600-680 nm).

[0434] To observe the bulk emulsion, place a drop of sample on a glass slide.

[0435] To observe the deposits, the sample was spread on a glass slide using a scraper spreader (automatic spreader) set to 25 µm. It was then placed in a fume hood to dry at room temperature for 1 hour.

[0436] Protocol for sensory evaluation of flaking

[0437] Sensory testing of the compositions was conducted in a panel of 64 Chinese women aged 18 to 35 with all skin types (oily, normal, and dry) under blind and single-sample evaluation conditions. These women were daily users of cosmetic skincare compositions with high SPF indices, 50% of whom were daily users of pharmaceutical products, including one of the best-selling daily UV products with SPF in the Chinese market, and 50% of whom were daily users of various photoprotective products (not necessarily pharmaceuticals).

[0438] To conduct this sensory evaluation, each volunteer applied the test composition to their facial skin at least once a day for a 3-day testing period.

[0439] The test was conducted in China, with temperatures between 21°C and 35°C and air humidity levels between 80% and 90%.

[0440] Comparative Example 1 - Compositions 1 to 4

[0441] Prepare the following composition.

[0442] [Table 1]

[0443]

[0444] Confocal microscopy observation results

[0445] The results obtained are as follows:

[0446] [Table 2]

[0447]

[0448] Compositions 1 and 4 according to the invention have regular, tight, fine emulsion quality and are deposited uniformly on the substrate. They exhibit excellent stability over time and high-performance deposition quality to limit the risk of chipping. Comparative composition 2, which does not contain cresoltrazol trisiloxane, has poor emulsion quality and is deposited unevenly on the substrate. Comparative composition 3, which contains alcohol, has poor emulsion quality.

[0449] Comparative Example 2 - Compositions 5 to 7

[0450] Prepare the following composition.

[0451] [Table 3]

[0452]

[0453] Sensory results obtained

[0454] The results obtained are as follows:

[0455] [Table 4]

[0456]

[0457] These results indicate that, compared to a comparative composition containing cresoltrazol trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL from Noval), the composition according to the invention contains cresoltrazol trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL from Noval) and exhibits reduced flaking.

Claims

1. A composition, particularly a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) Cresoltrazol trisiloxane and optionally at least one other lipophilic organic UV-blocking agent besides cresoltrazol trisiloxane; and b) At least one hydrophilic organic UV shielding agent; The mass ratio of the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent to the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is greater than 0.3; The amount of ethanol is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein, The amount of ethanol is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein it does not contain ethanol.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising at least one additional lipophilic organic UV masking agent, preferably selected from cinnamic acid compounds, anthranilate compounds, salicylic acid compounds, benzoylmethane compounds, benzyl camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, benzyl malonate compounds, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazoline compounds, bis-benzoazole compounds, methylene bis(hydroxyphenyl)benzotriazole compounds, benzoxazole compounds, masking polymers and masking silicones, α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably salicylic acid compounds, benzoylmethane compounds, benzyl camphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, triazine compounds, benzotriazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein, The hydrophilic organic UV masking agent is selected from water-soluble organic UV masking agents and water-dispersible organic UV masking agents, with water-dispersible organic UV masking agents being preferred.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein, The water-soluble organic UV masking agent is selected from 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), phenyl-1,4-bis(3-methylene-10-camphor sulfonic acid) (INCI name: terephthalimethylene dicamphor sulfonic acid), and their salts.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 6 and 7, wherein, The water-dispersible organic UV shielding agent is selected from at least one having a structure C. n H 2n+1 O(C6H 10 O5) x In the case of H-alkyl polysaccharide surfactants, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is (C6H) 10 The average degree of polymerization of the O5 unit is 1.4 to 1.6, and it is a methylene bis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size of 0.01 to 5 µm, more preferably 0.01 to 2 µm, and more particularly 0.020 to 2 µm; in at least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C5) having a degree of polymerization of at least 5. 20 In the presence of alkyl esters, methylene bis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm, more preferably 0.01 to 1.5 µm, and more particularly 0.02 to 1 µm; bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine in its aqueous dispersible form, having the INCI name bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)-methoxyphenyltriazine (and) acrylate / methacrylic acid C12-22 alkyl ester copolymer; symmetrical triazine masking agents substituted with naphthyl or polyphenyl groups, especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine, in the form of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm, more preferably 0.01 to 1.5 µm, and more particularly 0.02 to 1 µm, in the form of micronized particles (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), especially in the form of aqueous dispersions.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein, The total amount of UV masking agent is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein, The mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV masking agent and the lipophilic organic UV masking agent is between 0.35 and 1.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein, The AMPS copolymer is selected from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomers, and if the copolymer is crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents to obtain the copolymer.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein, The hydrophilic olefinic unsaturated monomer is nonionic.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein, The hydrophobic olefinic unsaturated monomer contains aliphatic chains.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein it is in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein, The amount of the fatty phase is between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein, The viscosity of the composition is less than or equal to 500 mPa·s.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, comprising at least three fillers that are different from each other, wherein the first filler is selected from spherical porous silica particles, particularly spherical porous silica microparticles, wherein the second filler is selected from spherical cellulose particles, and wherein the third filler is selected from N-acyl amino acid powder.

18. The composition of claim 17, wherein, The total amount of filler selected from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and N-acyl amino acid powder is between 1% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 17 and 18, wherein, The mass ratio of (spherical cellulose particles + N-acyl amino acid powder) to (spherical porous silica particles) is between 0.25 and 1.

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