Active ingredient mixtures for styling products

Abstract

Cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of the active ingredients a) - c) a) 0.20 to 1.00 wt.% of at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one acid, b) 0.20 to 1.00 wt.% of at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica, and c) 0.30 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer. The quantities stated refer to the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, which contain a combination of at least one chitosan compound, a hydrophobic silica, and a film-forming polymer in a cosmetic carrier. The invention further relates to the use of the cosmetic agents for increasing the volume and body of hair and for improving curl retention, in particular high-humidity curl retention.

[0002] Temporary styling products are well-known. They typically contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair using propellant gases or a pump mechanism. Hair gels and waxes, in particular, are generally not applied directly to the hair, but rather distributed through it using a comb or the hands. The most important property of a temporary styling product for keratin-containing fibers, also referred to as a styling agent, is to provide the treated fibers with the strongest possible hold in the resulting style. When the keratin-containing fibers are human hair, this is also described as strong hold or a high level of hold.

[0003] Cosmetic styling products typically contain individual polymers specifically designed to achieve a particular effect. To achieve a variety of effects, several polymers must be added. However, using too many different polymers can lead to a number of disadvantages. For example, formulation problems can arise because the polymers react with each other or with other components of the product, resulting in precipitation or decomposition. Certain polymers also tend to accumulate so persistently on the skin and especially on the hair that they cannot be completely removed during normal washing, leading to an undesirable polymer buildup and ultimately causing irritation to the skin or hair.

[0004] Therefore, there is a constant need for polymers or suitable combinations of fewer polymers that exhibit as many of the desired properties as possible simultaneously.

[0005] For example, in the case of styling products, it is essential that the polymers used provide the treated hair with the strongest possible hold. Besides a high hold, however, styling products must meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be broadly divided into properties on the hair, properties of the specific formulation (e.g., properties of the foam, gel, or sprayed aerosol), and properties relating to the handling of the styling product, with the properties on the hair being of particular importance. These include, in particular, humidity resistance, low stickiness, and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling product should ideally be universally applicable to all hair types.

[0006] Hairstyle hold in general, and curl retention in particular for wavy hair, places special demands on styling products. Curl retention is a measure of how well the curls are held. Typically, curl retention decreases when the treated hair is in a humid environment, as the hair's tendency to absorb moisture (water) leads to limp, droopy strands.

[0007] The object of the present invention was therefore to provide means for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers that result in significantly improved curl retention, in particular significantly improved high-humidity curl retention, i.e., a better degree of curl retention even in humid environments, preferably with further improvement in hairstyle hold and hair feel (softness and elasticity). A further object of the present invention was to increase and / or maintain hair volume, especially in humid environments.

[0008] These tasks were solved by a special combination of active ingredients comprising chitosan, silica and a film-forming polymer.

[0009] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier a combination of the active ingredients a)–c): a) at least one chitosan or its derivative, b) at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica and c) at least one nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer.

[0010] According to the invention, keratin-containing fibers are understood to be furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair.

[0011] According to the invention, polymers are understood to be compounds composed of a multitude of molecules in which one or more types of atoms or atomic groups (so-called constitutive units, basic building blocks, or repeating units) are repeatedly linked together and which have a molecular weight of at least 10,000 g / mol. The polymers are obtained by polymerization reactions, the latter of which can be artificial (i.e., synthetic) or natural.

[0012] The compositions according to the invention contain their active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier, preferably an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. For the purpose of temporary hair styling, such carriers are, for example, lotions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes, or other preparations suitable for application to the hair. According to the invention, it is preferred that the cosmetic carrier be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. It is further preferred that the cosmetic carrier of the composition according to the invention contains water, such that the composition contains at least 50% water by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0013] For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are understood to be aqueous compositions containing 3 to 70 wt% of a C1-C4 alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, or 1,3-propylene glycol. All water-soluble organic solvents are preferred.

[0014] A preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, 50 to 95 wt.%, particularly preferably 60 to 92.5 wt.% and particularly 65 to 90 wt.% water or a water-alcohol mixture.

[0015] Chitosans a) are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, they are partially deacetylated chitins of varying molecular weights. Chitosans are produced from chitin, preferably shell fragments of crustaceans, which are readily available in large quantities as inexpensive raw materials. The chitin is typically first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids, and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, resulting in molecular weights that can be distributed over a wide range. Preferably, types are used that have a mean molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 Daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1 wt% in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88%, and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt%.In addition to chitosans as typical biopolymers, cationically derivatized chitosans (such as quaternation products) or alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable as derivatives of chitosan within the meaning of the invention.

[0016] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as chitosan, a) at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one acid. Particularly preferred compositions contain a neutralization product of chitosan with at least one inorganic acid, preferably hydrochloric acid, or with at least one organic carboxylic acid, such as formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, or mixtures of these acids. According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to select the inorganic acid from among hydrochloric acid and the organic carboxylic acid from among among lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, or mixtures of these acids.This neutralization product can be produced, for example, in an aqueous medium by adding chitosan and the appropriate acid.

[0017] Suitable chitosans are available, for example, under the trade name Hydagen. ® CMF (1 wt% active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol; Cognis), Hydamer ® HCMF (Chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Chitinor, formerly Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (approximately 80 wt% active substance of chitosan pyrolidone carboxylate (INCI name: Chitosan PCA), Amerchol), Chitolam ® NB / 101 and Chitosan 90 / 100 / A1 ® (Chitosan (approximately 90% deacetylated); BioLog Heppe) is freely available commercially.

[0018] The at least one chitosan or its derivative a) is preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 wt.% to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 wt.% to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 wt.% to 1.25 wt.%, and especially 0.20 wt.% to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0019] As a second essential component, the cosmetic products according to the invention contain at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b).

[0020] Hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas suitable according to the invention are preferably modified on the surface of the silica particles with hydrophobic groups, preferably with alkyl groups. Particularly preferably, hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas suitable according to the invention contain hydrophobic groups on the surface such as (CH3)3Si-O-, (-Si(CH3)2O-) n , (H3C)2Si(O)2- and C7H 18Si(O)3-. Alkyl-modified, hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas are commercially available, for example under the trade name Aerosil. ® R from Evonik Degussa. The trading products Aerosil are particularly preferred. ® R202, Aerosil ® R805, Aerosil ® R812, Aerosil ® R972, Aerosil ® R974 and Aerosil ® R976, as well as products from Cab-O-Sil ® Cabot's TS series, especially the Cab-O-Sil TS-530.

[0021] The use of alkyl-modified, hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas known under the INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate in the compositions according to the invention is particularly preferred. These are available, for example, under the trade names Aerosil. ® R972 and Aerosil ® R974 available.

[0022] The at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b) is preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 wt.% to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 wt.% to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 wt.% to 1.25 wt.%, and especially 0.20 wt.% to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0023] As a third essential component, the cosmetic products according to the invention contain at least one non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer c), which is not a chitosan or a chitosan derivative.

[0024] Film-forming polymers (c) are defined as polymers that leave a continuous film on the skin, hair, or nails upon drying. Such film-forming agents can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as face masks, makeup, hairsprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos, or nail polishes. Polymers with sufficient solubility in water, alcohol, or water / alcohol mixtures are particularly preferred. This allows for the preparation of solutions that are easy to apply and process. Furthermore, suitable film-forming polymers (c) according to the invention are defined as polymers that, when used in 0.01 to 20 wt% aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, are able to deposit a transparent polymer film on the hair.Particularly preferred is the use of film-forming polymers c), which also have hair-strengthening properties and can contribute to hairstyle hold and / or to building hair volume and fullness of the overall hairstyle.

[0025] In a particularly preferred embodiment, cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one non-ionic film-forming and strengthening polymer c).

[0026] Within this embodiment, cosmetic products according to the invention are preferred which contain the at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c) in a total amount of 0.10 to 7.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.20 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt.% and especially 0.30 to 3.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0027] The at least one non-ionic film-forming and firming polymer c) can be included in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention as the sole polymer or in combination with another non-ionic polymer or in combination with an anionic, amphoteric or cationic film-forming firming polymer.

[0028] According to the invention, suitable nonionic polymers (c) are understood to be polymers which, in a protic solvent under standard conditions, essentially do not contain any structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups that would require compensation by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality. Examples of cationic groups include quaternized ammonium groups, but not protonated amines. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

[0029] According to the invention, particularly preferred nonionic film-forming and strengthening polymers c) may be selected from: – Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products such as Luviskol ® K 90 or Luviskol ® K 85 from BASF SE, – non-ionic copolymers of isobutene, – Polyvinyl alcohols, such as those sold under the trade names Elvanol ® from Du Pont or Vinol ® 523 / 540 distributed by Air Products, – Polyvinyl acetate, such as under the trade name Vinac ® distributed as an emulsion by the company Air Products, – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, such as the commercial products Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 from BASF – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide, – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide, – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N,N-di(C1 to C4)-alkylamino-(C2 to C4)-alkylacrylamide, – Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N,N-di(C1 to C4)-alkylamino-(C2 to C4)-alkylacrylamide,

[0030] Further preferred non-ionic film-forming and strengthening polymers c) are characterized in that they contain, as a non-ionic strengthening polymer, at least one copolymer which contains at least one further structural unit of formula (MI), at least one further structural unit of formula (M-VI) and at least one further structural unit of formula (M-VII).

[0031] It is particularly preferred if these copolymers, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the aforementioned structural units according to formulas (M-IV-a), (MI), (M-VI) and (M-VII) into the copolymer, contain a maximum of 5 wt.%, preferably a maximum of 1 wt.%, polymer units resulting from the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers are composed exclusively of structural units of formulas (M-IV-a), (MI), (M-VI) and (M-VII) and can be described by the general formula (Poly4) The indices m, n, o, and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and do not indicate that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of formulas (MI), (M-VI), and (M-VII) can be statistically distributed within the molecule. A particularly preferred polymer is selected from those with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

[0032] It was found that an optimal balance between moisture resistance, hold, body and fullness of the hair can be achieved when the agents according to the invention contain as polymer c) a non-ionic film-forming polymer c), preferably at least one homo- or copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and in particular preferably a homopolymer of vinylpyrrolidone.

[0033] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, as at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c) a vinylpyrrolidone homolymer (PVP).

[0034] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain a vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer as a non-ionic film-forming polymer c).

[0035] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as a non-ionic film-forming polymer c) a mixture of at least one vinylpyrrolidone homolymer (PVP) and at least one vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.

[0036] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can also contain at least one firming amphoteric polymer as a film-forming polymer, preferably in combination with at least one of the aforementioned nonionic film-forming polymers. The term amphoteric polymers encompasses both polymers that contain free amino groups as well as free -COOH or SO3H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and zwitterionic polymers that contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO groups in the molecule. – - or -SO3 – -groups, and such polymers are grouped together that contain -COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

[0037] An example of an amphoteric polymer c) that can be used according to the invention is the one called Amphomer ®available acrylic resin, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their (C1 to C4) alkyl esters.

[0038] The latter have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule in addition to the cationogenic or positively charged group and are also called zwitterionic polymers.

[0039] The firming amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the cosmetic products according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 wt.% to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 wt.% to 10 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of said preparation. Amounts of 0.1 wt.% are especially preferred.

[0040] Furthermore, film-forming polymers can be c) film-forming anionic polymers, preferably in combination with at least one of the aforementioned nonionic film-forming polymers.

[0041] Anionic polymers are anionic polymers that contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can be composed are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be present wholly or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-, or triethanolammonium salts. Preferred film-forming anionic polymers (c) are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and, in particular, polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid group-containing monomers. A particularly preferred film-forming and strengthening anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is present wholly or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono-, or triethanolammonium salts.This copolymer can also be cross-linked, with polyolefinic unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol, and methylenebisacrylamide being preferred as cross-linking agents. Such a polymer is found in the commercial product Sepigel. ® 305 from the company SEPPIC. The use of this commercial product, which, in addition to the polymer component, contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 The product containing isoparaffin and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7) can be advantageous according to the invention. The product known as Simulgel is also advantageous. ®The sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers marketed as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 (600) can also be advantageous according to the invention. Equally preferred film-forming and strengthening anionic homopolymers (c) are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose, and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are marketed, for example, under the trademark Carbopol. ® commercially available. Other preferably applicable film-forming and strengthening anionic polymers c) are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from – Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (such as the commercial product Aristoflex) ® A 60, marketed by CIBA under the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer in a 60 wt% dispersion in isopropanol-water), – Copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (such as those sold under the trade name Luviflex) ® Soft (with an acid number of 84 to 105, marketed under the INCI name Acrylates Copolymer in an approximately 20 to 30 wt% dispersion in water by BASF SE) – Polyurethanes with at least one carboxyl group (such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as marketed under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 or under the trade name Luviset Shape with the INCI name Polyurethane-34 by BASF SE).

[0042] To further optimize the product properties, in particular to increase product stability and to increase hair care properties (handle, combability, elasticity, softness), it has proven advantageous if the cosmetic products according to the invention continue to contain at least one surfactant, wherein the surfactant can in principle be of a non-ionic, anionic, cationic and / or ampholytic nature.

[0043] The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants comprises zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. According to the invention, these surfactants can already possess emulsifying properties. The use of at least one nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and / or at least one cationic surfactant is particularly preferred in this embodiment of the invention.

[0044] The surfactant(s) is / are preferably contained in the cosmetic products according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 wt.% to 5.00 wt.%, more preferably from 0.05 wt.% to 4.00 wt.% and in particular from 0.10 wt.% to 3.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic products.

[0045] It has proven particularly preferred if the cosmetic compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one non-ionic surfactant and / or one non-ionic emulsifier.

[0046] Suitable non-ionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers contain, as a hydrophilic group, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Examples of such compounds are... – Addition products of 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, – Addition products with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl group end-sealed of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those sold under the trade name Dehydol ® LS, Dehydol ® LT (Cognis) available types, – C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid mono- and diesters of adsorption products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol, – Deposition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, – Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis), – alkoxylated triglycerides, – alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (TI) R 1 CO-(OCH2CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (TI) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen or methyl, R 3 for linear or branched alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w stands for numbers from 1 to 20, – Amine oxides, – Hydroxy mixed ethers, such as those described in DE-OS 19738866, – Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, – Sugar fatty acid esters and adsorption products of ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, – Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, – Sugar surfactants of the type of alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides according to formula (T-II), R 4 O-[G]p (T-II) in the R 4G represents an alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar group with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents a number from 1 to 10. Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index p in the general formula (T-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a number between 1 and 10. While p in a single molecule must always be an integer and can primarily take the values ​​p = 1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity, which usually represents a fraction. Preferably, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a medium degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used.From an application engineering perspective, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization of less than 1.7, and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4, are preferred.

[0047] The alkyl or alkenyl group R 4 It can be derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. The alkyl or alkenyl group R 4 It can also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated carbon are preferred. 12 / 14 -Coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3.

[0048] PEG derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil have proven to be particularly preferred non-ionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers. These are generally available commercially under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil. According to the invention, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, and / or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil are particularly preferred. The use of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil as a non-ionic emulsifier is particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0049] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition additionally contains 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 1.00 wt.%, and especially 0.15 to 0.70 wt.% of at least one non-ionic emulsifier, preferably a PEG derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in the compositions according to the invention in the aforementioned quantities is particularly preferred.

[0050] Furthermore, it has proven particularly advantageous if the cosmetic products according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant to enhance the hair-conditioning properties.

[0051] According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats, and amidoamines can be used. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, as in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Other preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Alkyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly preferred, especially C 12 -C 20 -Alkyltrimethylammonium salts and especially C 16 -C 18-Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides.

[0052] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agent additionally contains 0.05 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 4.00 wt.% and especially 0.20 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one surfactant, preferably at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

[0053] The use of C is particularly preferred. 12 -C 20 -Alkyltrimethylammonium salts and especially of C 16 -C 18 -Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in the compositions according to the invention in the amounts mentioned above.

[0054] In principle, all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, each in the form of: Sodium, potassium and ammonium, as well as mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, – linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), – Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH2-CH2O) x -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, – Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, – Acyltaurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, – Acylisethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, – Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, – linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, – linear alpha olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, – Alpha-sulfofatis methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, – Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO(CH2-CH2O) x -OSO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, – Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, – sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers, – Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, – Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, – Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula (TV), in the R 1 preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon residue with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen, a residue (CH2CH2O) n R 1 or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently representing hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon residue, stands, – sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of formula (T-VI) R 7 CO(AlkO) n SO3M (T-VI) in the R 7 CO- stands for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH2CH2, CHCH3CH2 and / or CH2CHCH3, n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a cation, – Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of formula (T-VII) in the R 8CO represents a linear or branched acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, and z together represent 0 or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of suitable monoglyceride (ether) sulfates according to the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of formula (T-VII) are used, in which R 8 CO stands for a linear acyl residue with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, – Amide ether carboxylic acids, – Condensation products from C8-C 30-Fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to those skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® -types, gluadin ® -Types, Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® -Types.

[0055] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO in their molecule. (–) - or -SO3 (–)-group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0056] Ampholytes are understood to be surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C 24Ampholytes containing an alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group, and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C 12 -C 18 -Acylsarcosine.

[0057] According to a further preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in the form of a foam. For this purpose, the compositions according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either a pressurized gas container (aerosol container) additionally filled with a propellant or a non-aerosol container. Pressurized gas containers, by means of which a product is distributed via a valve by means of the internal gas pressure of the container, are by definition referred to as "aerosol containers." Conversely, a "non-aerosol container" is defined as a container at normal pressure, by means of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action via a pump or squeeze system. Particularly preferably in this embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in the form of an aerosol foam in an aerosol container. The composition according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.The inventive composition, which is in the form of an aerosol product, can be produced in the usual manner. Generally, all components of the composition according to the invention, with the exception of the propellant, are placed in a suitable pressure-resistant container. This container is then sealed with a valve. Finally, the desired quantity of propellant is added using conventional techniques. In the embodiment as an aerosol foam, suitable propellants according to the invention are selected, for example, from N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂, air, alkanes with 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane, and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. According to the embodiment of an aerosol foam, the aforementioned alkanes, mixtures of the aforementioned alkanes, or mixtures of the aforementioned alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the sole propellant.The invention expressly includes the use of propellants of the chlorofluorocarbon type, and in particular of fluorocarbons. Dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof are preferred. Mixtures of propane and butane are particularly preferred as the sole propellant in a propane-to-butane weight ratio of 70:30 to 15:85. These mixtures are preferably used in the cosmetic products according to the invention in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight – based on the weight of the entire product. For the purposes of the invention, butane is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.

[0058] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, preferably contains 1 to 15 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 12.5 wt.% and particularly 3 to 10 wt.% of at least one propellant, preferably propane and / or butane.

[0059] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain further excipients, conditioning agents, and additives. The weight fraction of the further ingredients contained in the compositions according to the invention, in addition to components a) to c), and in particular the further excipients, conditioning agents, and additives contained in these compositions, is preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 7.0% by weight, more preferably less than 5.0% by weight, and more preferably less than 3.0% by weight. The weight fraction of these excipients, conditioning agents, and additives in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 3.0% by weight. The cosmetic composition may, for example, contain a protein hydrolysate and / or one of its derivatives as a conditioning agent.Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by the acidic, basic, or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term protein hydrolysates also includes total hydrolysates, individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates usable according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000; preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000, and most preferably, 75 to 20,000 Daltons. Cationic polymers, which have conditioning, film-forming, and / or firming properties, are also suitable as conditioning agents. Particularly suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are, for example: – N-Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat)® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)), – N-Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methyl sulfate copolymers (such as polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade name Luviquat) ® Care (BASF SE)), – N-Vinylpyrrolidone / N-Vinylcaprolactam / 1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat) ® Care or Luviquat ® Hold (BASF SE)), – N-Vinylpyrrolidone / Methacrylamide / N-Vinylimidazole / 1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methylsulfate copolymer (such as that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 under the trade name Luviquat) ®Supreme (BASF SE), as well as mixtures of these polymers. As conditioning agents, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can further contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, one vitamin precursor, and / or one of their derivatives. According to the invention, those vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors that are typically assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F, and H are preferred. Vitamins of groups A, B, and E, in particular niacinamide, panthenol, and / or biotin, are particularly preferred. As conditioning agents, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can further contain at least one plant extract, but also mono- or oligosaccharides and / or lipids. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can also contain UV filters as conditioning agents, which are typically used in amounts of 0.01–1% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention.

[0060] A second object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic agent of the first object of the invention to increase the volume and body of hair and to improve curl retention, in particular high humidity curl retention.

[0061] A particular embodiment of the invention is described by the following points: 1. Cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of the active ingredients a)–c) a) at least one chitosan or its derivative, b) at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica and c) at least one nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer. 2. Cosmetic product according to point 1, characterized in that it contains at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one acid as chitosan or its derivative a). 3. Cosmetic composition according to point 2, characterized in that the acid is selected from inorganic acids, preferably hydrochloric acid, or from organic carboxylic acids, preferably lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, or from mixtures of these acids. 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of points 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one chitosan or its derivative a) is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 to 1.25 wt.% and especially 0.20 to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 5. Cosmetic agent according to one of points 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b) is modified on the surface with hydrophobic groups, preferably with alkyl groups. 6. Cosmetic product according to point 5, characterized in that it contains at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica and b) a compound known under the INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate. 7. Cosmetic composition according to one of points 1 to 6, characterized in that the at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b) is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 to 1.25 wt.% and especially 0.20 to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c), preferably at least one homo- or copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and in particular at least one vinylpyrrolidone homolymer (PVP). 9. Cosmetic composition according to one of points 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c), preferably at least one homo- or copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and in particular a vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. 10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 9, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c) is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 7.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.20 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt.% and especially 0.30 to 3.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally contains 0.05 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 4.00 wt.% and in particular 0.20 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one surfactant, preferably at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 11, characterized in that it additionally contains 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 1.00 wt.% and in particular 0.15 to 0.70 wt.% of at least one non-ionic emulsifier, preferably a PEG derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, 50 to 95 wt.%, particularly preferably 60 to 92.5 wt.% and particularly 70 to 90 wt.% water and / or a water-alcohol mixture. 14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of points 1 to 13, characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, 1 to 15 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 12.5 wt.% and particularly 3 to 10 wt.% of at least one propellant, preferably propane and / or butane. 15. Use of a cosmetic product according to any of points 1 to 14 to increase the volume and body of hair and to improve curl retention, especially high humidity curl retention. Examples: 1) The composition of some preferred cosmetic compositions can be found in the following tables (percentages by weight based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated). formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Chitosan or chitosan derivative 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 5 Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 9 Formula 10 Formula 11 Formula 12 Chitosan or chitosan derivative 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15 Formula 16 Chitosan or chitosan derivative 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Non-ionic film-forming polymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20 Chitosan or chitosan derivative 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 21 Formula 22 Formula 23 Formula 24 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 25 Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 29 Formula 30 Formula 31 Formula 32 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Cationic surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35 Formula 36 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Non-ionic emulsifier, preferably PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,20 0,10–1,00 0,15–0,70 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Cationic surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Non-ionic emulsifier, preferably PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,20 0,10–1,00 0,15–0,70 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Propellant, especially propane / butane 1,00–15,00 2,00–12,50 3,00–10,00 3,50–9,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 45 Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Cationic surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Propellant, especially propane / butane 1,00–15,00 2,00–12,50 3,00–10,00 3,50–9,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 49 Formula 50 Formula 51 Formula 52 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Non-ionic emulsifier, preferably PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,20 0,10–1,00 0,15–0,70 Propellant, especially propane / butane 1,00–15,00 2,00–12,50 3,00–10,00 3,50–9,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55 Formula 56 Neutralization product of chitosan with hydrochloric acid, lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid and / or hydroxybutyric acid 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Alkyl group-modified hydrophobic pyrogenic silica 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,40 0,15–1,25 0,20–1,00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or vinyl acetate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,10–7,00 0,20–5,00 0,25–4,00 0,30–3,00 Cationic surfactant 0,05–5,00 0,10–4,00 0,15–3,50 0,20–3,00 Non-ionic emulsifier, preferably PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,05–1,50 0,10–1,20 0,10–1,00 0,15–0,70 Propellant, especially propane / butane 1,00–15,00 2,00–12,50 3,00–10,00 3,50–9,00 Water and other ingredients ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60 Hydamer ®1 HCMF 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 Aerosil ®2 R 972 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 Luviskol ®3 K 90 0,10–7,00 0,10–7,00 0,10–7,00 0,10–7,00 PVP / VA copolymer 60 / 40 50% AS 1,00–5,00 1,00–5,00 Luviquat ®4 FC 370 0,50–5,00 0,50–5,00 Dehyquart ®5 A CA 0,50–2,00 0,50–2,00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 0,05–1,50 Propane / Butane 1,00–10,00 1,00–10,00 1,00–10,00 1,00–10,00 Acidulants, preservatives, perfume 0,50–2,00 0,50–2,00 0,50–2,00 0,50–2,00 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 List of raw materials used: 1 INCI name: Chitosan; Chitinor AS 2 INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate; Evonik 3 INCI name: PVP; 20% AS; BASF 4 INCI name: Polyquaternium-16, approx. 35% AS; BASF 5 INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride, approx. 25% AS; BASF 2) Evidence of effectiveness

[0062] The following compositions according to the invention (6) and those not according to the invention (1–5) were prepared and investigated in the laboratory with regard to curl retention and volume / body (ring method) (the quantities in the table refer to wt.%): 1(5) 2(6) 3(7) 4(8) 5(9) 6(10) a): Hydamer ® HCMF 0,3 0,2 0,5 0,5 c): Luviskol ® K 85 6,0 1,5 c): Luviskol ® K 90 (20% AS) 1,5 c): PVP / VA copolymer 60 / 40 (50% AS) 13 4,0 6,5 4,0 4,0 b) Aerosil ® R972 0,5 0,5 Dehyquart ® A CA 1,0 1,0 0,9 1,0 1,0 Behentrimonium chloride 0,4 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Propane-Butane 6,0 6,0 10 6,0 6,0 n-Butane 5,0 Dimethyl ether 10 Preservatives, acidifiers, perfume, water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 a) Examination of curl retention

[0063] Each of the above-mentioned compositions was tested on 10 hair strands, each weighing approximately 1 g and 20 cm long. The strands were washed twice with a 14% sodium laureth sulfate solution and rinsed with water. Then, 3.5 cm of each strand was removed. 3Compositions 1–6 were applied to the hair strands, which were then wound around spiral curlers (6 mm diameter and 160 mm length). The strands were dried in a drying oven (45 ± 1)°C for one hour and then left to rest for 18 hours at (22 ± 1)°C and (65 ± 5)% relative humidity. Afterward, the strands were carefully removed from the curlers and, secured at the top, placed in a climate chamber ((21 ± 1)°C and (85 ± 5)% relative humidity). The length of each strand was measured before placement in the climate chamber (L0) and after 13, 30, 60, and 90 minutes, as well as after 2, 3, 4, 5, and 8 hours in the climate chamber. Curl retention was determined as a percentage using the following equation: Curl Retention [%] = L – Lt L – L0 ·100, where L the length of the strands before winding them onto the curlers, L0 the length of the strands before placement in the climate chamber and Lt means the length of the strands after the respective time spent in the climate chamber.

[0064] The following table summarizes the values ​​determined after 8 hours (mean of 10 measured hair strands). It is clearly evident that those hair strands treated with the compositions according to the invention exhibit the best curl retention. measurement Curl Retention (Mean Values) [%] 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 hours 45,7 38,4 44,8 40,9 44,8 49,1 b) Examination of volume and body using the ring method

[0065] The volume and body of the hair were determined by drawing a strand of hair through a metal ring of a specific diameter and measuring the force required. The more resistant the strands were to deformation (body), the more force was needed. Each of the compositions 1–6 was tested on 10 strands of hair (each weighing 3 g and 20 cm long). Before the test, the hair strands were washed twice with a 14% sodium laureth sulfate solution, dried (for one hour in a drying oven at (45 ± 1)°C), and then left to rest for 18 hours at (22 ± 1)°C and (50 ± 5)% relative humidity. Subsequently, compositions 1–6 (each 3.5 cm) were tested. 3(per 1 g of hair) was applied to 50% damp strands and massaged in for 1 minute each. To generate volume, the strands were wound onto rollers, dried for 45 minutes at 45°C, and left to rest overnight at 20°C and 65% relative humidity. After removal from the rollers, the strands were combed with the same number of strokes using a metal comb. The treated strands were then pulled through rings of decreasing diameter (20 mm and 12 mm), and the force required was measured. The following table shows the test results for "Tactile Volume / Body" for the 12 mm ring diameter (average of 10 measured hair strands). It is clearly evident that those hair strands treated with the compositions according to the invention showed the best values ​​for "Body". showed. 1 2 3 4 5 6 untreated Body (resistance) 7,9 6,7 7,2 8,7 8,3 14,5 6,6 Standard deviation 0,7 0,5 0,6 0,6 0,8 1,4 0,7 QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0066] This list of documents cited by the applicant was automatically generated and is included solely for the reader's convenience. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA accepts no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0067] DE 19738866 A

[0046]

Claims

[1] Cosmetic product for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of the active ingredients a)–c) a) at least one chitosan or its derivative, b) at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica and c) at least one nonionic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer. [2] Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized by that chitosan or its derivative a) contains at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one acid. [3] Cosmetic product according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized bythat the at least one chitosan or its derivative a) is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 to 1.25 wt.% and especially 0.20 to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic product. [4] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by that the at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b) is modified on the surface with hydrophobic groups, preferably with alkyl groups. [5] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by that the at least one hydrophobic pyrogenic silica b) is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.50 wt.%, more preferably 0.10 to 1.40 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.15 to 1.25 wt.% and especially 0.20 to 1.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic product. [6] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized by that it contains at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c), preferably at least one homo- or copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and in particular at least one vinylpyrrolidone homolymer (PVP). [7] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by that the at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer c) is contained in a total amount of 0.10 to 7.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.20 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt.% and especially 0.30 to 3.00 wt.%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic product. [8] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized bythat it additionally contains 0.05 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.10 to 4.00 wt.% and particularly 0.20 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one surfactant, preferably at least one cationic surfactant, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic product. [9] Cosmetic product according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by that, based on its total weight, it contains 1 to 15 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 12.5 wt.% and particularly 3 to 10 wt.% of at least one propellant, preferably propane and / or butane. [10] Use of a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for increasing the volume and body of hair and for improving curl retention, in particular high humidity curl retention.