METHOD AND ORDER FOR DETERMINING THE DEGREE OF HAIR DAMAGE

Description

[0001] The invention relates to methods and arrangements for determining the degree of damage to hair.

[0002] When treating hair with cosmetic products, the product's effect, such as the intensity of a color treatment, can depend heavily on the degree of hair damage. Therefore, determining the extent of hair damage can be crucial. Furthermore, it can be desirable to counteract hair damage, and again, determining the degree of damage is helpful in selecting a suitable care product. Accordingly, effective and user-friendly methods for determining the degree of hair damage are desirable.

[0003] The documents "The effects of lipid penetration and removal from subsurface microcavities and cracks at the human cuticle sheath" by Manuel Gamez-Garcia, J Cosmet. Sci., 60, 85-95 (March / April 2009) and "Patterns of Light Interference Produced by Damaged Cuticle Cells in Human Hair" by Manuel Gamez-Garcia and Yuan Lu, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 58, No. 4, 269-282, describe quantitative optical experiments performed on human arm hair. Document US2013287715 A1 describes cosmetic compositions comprising hydrolyzed yeast proteins and their use as cosmetic formulations.

[0004] According to various embodiments, a method according to claim 1 is described. It is a method for determining the degree of hair damage, comprising: During exposure of a hair sample to light, recording the light emitted by the hair sample; determining, based on the recorded light, first areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with higher interference and second areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with lower interference; and determining the degree of hair damage based on the sizes of the first and second areas.

[0005] According to a further embodiment, an arrangement for determining the degree of damage to hair is provided according to the method described above.

[0006] Exemplary embodiments of the invention are shown in the figures and are explained in more detail below. Figure 1 illustrates the taking of a hair sample. Figure 2 shows the structure of a hair. Figure 3 shows an arrangement for determining the degree of damage to hair. Figure 4 shows an example of an image of a single hair, taken according to one embodiment. Figure 5 shows a curve that illustrates the relationship between the degree of hair damage and the proportion of light areas in the interference pattern. Figure 6 shows a flowchart illustrating a procedure for determining the degree of hair damage. Figure 7 shows an arrangement for determining the degree of hair damage

[0007] The following detailed description refers to the accompanying drawings, which form part of this application and illustrate specific embodiments in which the invention can be implemented. It is understood that other embodiments may be used and structural or logical modifications may be made without altering the scope of protection of the present invention. It is understood that the features of the various exemplary embodiments described herein may be combined unless specifically stated otherwise. Therefore, the following detailed description is not to be interpreted as restrictive, and the scope of protection of the present invention is defined by the attached claims.

[0008] Figure 1 illustrates the taking of a hair sample.

[0009] According to various embodiments, a hair sample 102P can be taken to determine the degree of damage to a user's hair 102. The hair sample 102P can, for example, be taken from a distance 102PL from the user's scalp and can contain one or more hairs.

[0010] Determining the degree of damage to a user's hair (102) can also be done without taking a hair sample (102P) directly from the user's head.

[0011] The following are examples of procedures in which damage to hair is demonstrated using interference reflection microscopy.

[0012] Interference reflection microscopy allows for the examination of very thin hair structures. This technique is based on the formation of interference patterns that arise when light is reflected from the upper and lower interfaces of a structure, and the reflected light from both interfaces interferes with each other. This creates observable interference patterns that provide information about the structure's thickness. The resulting interference colors enable structural measurements in the range below 200 nm. By viewing these interference colors through a light microscope, these structural measurements can be correlated with microscopically identifiable structures.

[0013] According to various embodiments, this is applied to the cuticle of a hair.

[0014] Figure 2 shows the structure of a hair 200.

[0015] The hair has a cuticle 201, a cortex 202 and medulla 203.

[0016] When the hair is irradiated with light 204, part of the light is reflected at the outer surface of the cuticle 201 and part is reflected at the interface between the cuticle 201 and the cortex 202 (especially if the cuticle 201 has lifted or detached from the cortex 202, which typically corresponds to damage to the hair). The reflected portions 205, 206 interfere and form an interference pattern.

[0017] Figure 3 Figure 300 shows an arrangement for determining the degree of damage to hair.

[0018] The arrangement includes a light source 301, which is arranged to illuminate a hair sample 102P, which, for example, has several hairs (i.e., hair fibers), with white light.

[0019] The hair sample 102P is arranged, for example, in or on a support 302. A camera 304, coupled to an interference microscope 303 which is directed at the hair sample 102P and receives the light reflected from the hair sample 102P, takes photographs of one or more hair fibers.

[0020] The magnification factor of the microscope is, for example, in the range of 10 to 1000, e.g. in the range of 200 to 400, and is adjustable.

[0021] The arrangement 300 also includes a data processing device 305, which is set up to evaluate the photos and to determine damage (e.g. a degree of damage) based on the photos.

[0022] The data processing unit 305, for example, determines the type and / or number of interference patterns in the hair for each of one or more photos using image analysis software, compares them with a calibration model created in the same way, and thus determines a degree of hair damage. For multiple photos, the data processing unit 305 can, for example, calculate an average of the damage degrees determined for the photos.

[0023] The interference microscope 303, the camera 304, the data processing unit 305, and optionally also the light source 301 and the support 302, can be implemented using a smartphone equipped with a microscope objective suitable for interference microscopy. Alternatively, the interference microscope 303, the camera 304, the data processing unit 305, and optionally also the light source 301 and the support 302, can be implemented using a Wi-Fi-enabled media player such as an iPod touch or a tablet.

[0024] For example, using a portable electronic device (such as a smartphone, a tablet, etc.) with a microscope attachment (such as a Scrona µpeek) in combination with an interference slider (such as those offered by Hirox Ltd.), hairs are photographed at 350x magnification.

[0025] The interference colors are observed through a light microscope, and therefore these structural measurements can be correlated with the microscopically visible structures. To minimize contrast-reducing reflections from glass surfaces (e.g., the substrate 302), oil immersion and a low-reflection objective can be used. A central diaphragm can be positioned in the illumination beam path to block reflections from the central area of ​​the objective.

[0026] Figure 4 shows an example of image 400 of a single hair, which is registered (i.e., recorded) by, for example, camera 304.

[0027] The image 400 can be captured in color by the camera 304 and converted into a black and white version by the data processing unit 305, as shown. Figure 4 shows. Alternatively, camera 304 can capture image 400 in black and white.

[0028] The data processing unit can determine the proportion of bright areas in image 400, for example, using an image processing computer program installed on the data processing unit. A brightness threshold can be specified for this purpose, and the data processing unit identifies areas with a brightness lower than the threshold as dark and areas with a brightness higher than the threshold as bright. The brightness threshold is defined, for example, in relation to the brightness of the dark areas in the photograph (e.g., as a factor of the brightness of the dark areas).

[0029] The area of ​​interfering hair structures, that is, the proportion of light areas to the total area of ​​the hair in the photo, is, for example, between 1% and 50%, e.g., between 5% and 30%.

[0030] The data processing unit can then infer the degree of damage from the determined proportion of light areas, for example with the help of a table that assigns areas of area proportions to degrees of damage.

[0031] For calibration (i.e., for example, to create such a table), hair samples are stretched and thus damaged by a predetermined tensile strain. For example, the degree of strain is kept constant for all hair samples, and the number of strain / relaxation cycles is varied to achieve different degrees of damage, for example, in the range of 1 to 1000 strain / relaxation cycles. The resulting hair damage (depending on the number of strain / relaxation cycles) is examined using interference microscopy as described above and analyzed with image processing software that determines the area fraction of the interfering hair surface (which is displayed as significantly lighter than the rest of the hair).The determined area proportions are a measure of the degree of hair damage and can be assigned to the damage levels (which correspond, for example, to ranges of the number of stretching / relaxing cycles) in order to calibrate the data processing device.

[0032] For example, to calibrate, hair is damaged by stretching it by 20% at room temperature and then relaxing it for one second. This process is repeated several times. For example, 10 hairs are subjected to the following number of stretches: 1 3 10 30 100 300 1000

[0033] Subsequently, all hairs in a group (i.e., the hairs subjected to the same number of stretches) were examined under a microscope, and the proportion of bright (interfering) areas was determined using image analysis software. The average of these areas was then calculated across all hairs in the group. This allows the proportions of these areas to be correlated with the resulting hair damage.

[0034] By interpolating the proportion of light areas for the different groups, a degree of damage – expressed as the number of 20% strains – can be determined for each proportion of light areas, resulting, for example, in a curve as shown in Figure 5 is shown.

[0035] Figure 5 Curve 501 shows an example of the relationship between the degree of hair damage, increasing from left to right along the x-axis 502, and the proportion of bright areas in the interference image, increasing from bottom to top along the y-axis 503.

[0036] The degree of damage is assigned to damage levels, for example as shown in Table 1. Table 1 Degree of damage as a number of strains Damage level 0 to 3 Small amount 4 to 10 Moderate 11 to 100 Strong more than 100 Very strong

[0037] For example, 2 to 20 levels of damage can be defined, e.g. 2 to 4.

[0038] The hair damage of test hairs (i.e., hairs whose degree of damage is to be determined) is measured according to the calibration curve, as described, for example, in Figure 5 The data processing unit 305 determines the hair damage, which is represented and stored, for example, in tabular form (e.g., online). Based on the hair damage (e.g., for each damage level according to Table 1), the unit derives a product recommendation, for example, based on empirical data, such as from experience tables, and suggests it to the user. If the data processing unit 305 is implemented by a smartphone or tablet, the smartphone or tablet displays a product recommendation to the user on its screen. Alternatively, if the data processing unit 305 is implemented by a smartphone or tablet, a product recommendation can be announced to the user via a speaker.

[0039] For example, Data Processing Unit 305 recommends products with higher conditioning properties for more severely damaged hair and products with moderate or low conditioning properties for less damaged hair. Conditioning properties can be achieved through well-known conditioning agents such as quaternary nitrogen compounds (e.g., hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride), cationic polymers (e.g., those listed in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) Polyquaternium-10), or silicones (e.g., those listed in INCI). Furthermore, dicarboxylic acids (e.g., succinic acid) are also particularly suitable for this purpose.

[0040] The determination of the degree of damage with associated product recommendation is carried out automatically by the data processing device 305, for example by software that is installed on the data processing device, e.g. a smartphone, a tablet or a PC.

[0041] The data processing unit 305 determines the recommended product, for example, based on a database that contains a product recommendation for each degree of damage. Table 2 shows an example. Table 2 Damage level Product recommendation Small amount Product 1 for minimal hair care, containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (0.2%) Moderate Product 2 for moderate hair care, containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (0.2%) + polyquaternium-10 (0.5%) Strong Product 3 for intensive hair care, containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (0.2%) + polyquaternium-10 (0.5%) + dimethicone (1%) Very strong Product 4 for very strong hair care, containing hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride (0.2%) + polyquaternium-10 (0.5%) + dimethicone (1%) + succinic acid (1%)

[0042] In summary, a method for determining the degree of hair damage is provided according to various embodiments, as described in Figure 6 is shown.

[0043] Figure 6 shows a flowchart 600.

[0044] In 601, during exposure of a hair sample to light, light emitted by the hair sample is recorded.

[0045] In 602, based on the registered light, first areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with higher interference and second areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with lower interference are identified.

[0046] In 603, a degree of damage to the hair sample is determined based on the sizes of the first areas and the second areas (e.g., based on the total size of the first and / or the total size of the second areas, e.g., based on the area fraction of the total size of the first areas to the total area of ​​the hair sample or based on the ratio of the total size of the first areas to the total size of the second areas).

[0047] In other words, according to various embodiments, a method is provided for detecting (and, for example, subsequently reducing) hair damage, based on an analysis of patterns on the surface of one or more hairs recorded using interference microscopy. The severity of damage to a hair (or multiple hairs) is determined by ascertaining the size of the areas of the hair where high interference occurs (for example, in relation to the areas or the total area of ​​the observed hair). High interference can occur, for example, when the cuticle separates from the cortex, indicating hair damage. The hair is irradiated, for example, with white light (e.g., daylight), and the occurrence of interference in the different areas of the hair is examined in the reflected light.

[0048] It should be noted that determining the damage based on the ratio of the size of the first areas to the total area can also be considered as being based on the size of the second areas, since the size of the first areas is smaller the larger the second areas are (for example, the sum of the size of the first areas and the size of the second areas is the total area, possibly including areas that are neither assigned to the first areas nor the second areas, for example, areas of medium interference).

[0049] The procedure according to Figure 6 This can be done with a portable electronic device such as a smartphone, thus providing consumers with a simple way to determine hair damage.

[0050] The procedure according to Figure 6 is carried out, for example, by an arrangement such as that described in Figure 7 is shown.

[0051] Figure 7 shows an arrangement 700 for determining the degree of damage to hair.

[0052] The arrangement 700 includes a lamp 701 which is configured to expose a hair sample 702 of the hair with light 703, and a light recording device 705 which is configured to register light 704 which is emitted by the hair sample.

[0053] The arrangement further includes a data processing device 706 which is configured to determine, based on the registered light, first areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with higher interference and second areas of the hair sample that reflect the light with lower interference, and to determine a degree of damage to the hair sample based on the size of the first areas and the size of the second areas.

[0054] It should be noted that exemplary embodiments relating to the method for determining the degree of damage to hair apply analogously to the methods and arrangements for determining the degree of damage to hair, and vice versa.

[0055] Based on the determined degree of damage, the consumer can also be given an objectively determined recommendation (for example, automatically via his smartphone) as to which products are well suited for his hair, for example to counteract the determined damage.

[0056] The following are examples of implementation: Exemplary embodiment 1 is a method for determining the degree of hair damage, as described in Figure 6As illustrated, embodiment 2 is a method according to embodiment 1, wherein the light is recorded using an interference microscope. Embodiment 3 is a method according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the light recording involves taking a photograph of the hair sample. Embodiment 4 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the determination of the first areas and the determination of the second areas involve identifying lighter and darker areas of the photograph. Embodiment 5 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein the determination of the first areas involves identifying areas of the photograph whose brightness is greater than or equal to a predetermined threshold.Embodiment 6 is a method according to embodiment 5, wherein determining the second areas comprises identifying areas of the photograph whose brightness is less than or equal to the specified threshold or less than the specified threshold. Embodiment 7 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 6, comprising determining the degree of damage for a plurality of hair samples and determining, as the degree of damage of the hair, an average degree of damage of the determined degrees of damage. Embodiment 8 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein the hair sample comprises one or more hairs. Embodiment 9 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein results of comparative measurements are used to determine the degree of damage of the hair.Embodiment 10 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the determination of the degree of damage is based on calibration data representing a previously determined assignment of proportions of areas of higher interference in hair samples to degrees of damage. Embodiment 11 is a method according to embodiment 10, comprising determining the calibration data based on hair samples with known damage. Embodiment 12 is a method according to embodiment 11, comprising generating hair samples with known damage by predefined stretching of the hair samples. Embodiment 13 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 12, comprising illuminating the hair sample with white light. Embodiment 14 is a method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 13, further comprising selecting a user-specific agent based on the determined degree of damage.Embodiment 15 is a method according to embodiment 14, further comprising displays of the selected user-specific agent. Embodiment 16 is an arrangement for determining the degree of hair damage, as described in . Figure 7 is shown.

[0057] In a further embodiment, the invention comprises a method for determining an individual hair treatment recommendation characterized by the steps a) Recording interference patterns of several samples of differently damaged hair; b) Creating a calibration model that establishes a correlation between interference patterns and the degree of damage; c) Recording interference patterns of the hair of one individual; d) Determining the degree of damage to this individual's hair using the calibration model; e) Providing an individualized treatment recommendation for the individual's hair based on the determined degree of damage.

[0058] It is preferred that the individual treatment recommendation includes a recommendation for hair care products. It may be further preferred that the procedure for determining an individual hair treatment recommendation further includes a step for triggering an order for a recommended, commercially available hair care product. It is also preferred that the individual treatment recommendation consists of advising the individual for or against the use of hair care products that the individual identifies using QR codes, NFC chips, barcodes, or RFID chips.

[0059] Alternatively, the individual treatment recommendation can consist of advising the individual to use hair care products that are individually manufactured for the individual and initiating an ordering process, preferably by accessing a website of a manufacturer of individual hair care products.

[0060] It is further preferred that the calibration model from b) is stored as information on a local data carrier or in a cloud. It is also preferred that step c) is carried out at a hairdresser's, at a point of sale (POS) for hair treatment products, or in a private setting.

[0061] Step c) is preferably controlled by a smart device such as a smartphone, a Wi-Fi-enabled media player or a tablet, preferably via a pre-installed app.

Claims

1. A method for determining a degree of damage to hair (102), comprising: during exposure of a hair sample (102P, 702) of the hair (102) to light (703), registering light (704) emitted by the hair sample (102P, 702); the method being characterized in that it further comprises: determining, on the basis of the registered light (704), first regions of the hair sample (102P, 702) that reflect the light (704) with higher interference and second regions of the hair sample (102P, 702) that reflect the light (704) with lower interference; and determining a degree of damage to the hair sample (102P, 702) on the basis of the sizes of the first regions and the second regions, wherein the degree of damage is based on the total size of the first and / or the total size of the second regions, in particular based on the area proportion of the total size of the first regions to the total area of the hair sample or based on the ratio of the total size of the first regions to the total size of the second regions.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the light (704) is registered by means of an interference microscope (303).

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein registering the light (704) includes taking a photograph of the hair sample (102P, 702).

4. The method according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein determining the first regions and determining the second regions includes determining lighter regions and darker regions of the photograph.

5. The method according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein determining the first regions includes determining regions of the photograph of which the brightness is greater than a specified threshold value or greater than or equal to a specified threshold value.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein determining the second regions includes determining regions of the photograph of which the brightness is less than or equal to the specified threshold value or less than the specified threshold value.

7. The method according to one of claims 1 to 6, comprising determining the degree of damage for a plurality of hair samples (102P, 702) and determining, as the degree of damage to the hair (102), an average degree of damage of the determined degrees of damage.

8. The method according to one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hair sample (102P, 702) comprises one or more hairs (102).

9. The method according to one of claims 1 to 8, wherein results of comparative measurements are used to determine the degree of damage to the hair (102).

10. The method according to one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the degree of damage is determined on the basis of calibration data representing a previously determined allocation of proportions of regions of hair samples (102P, 702) with higher interference to degrees of damage.

11. The method according to claim 10, comprising determining the calibration data on the basis of hair samples (102P, 702) having known damage.

12. The method according to claim 11, comprising generating the hair samples (102P, 702) with known damage by specified stretching of the hair (102) of the hair samples (102P, 702).

13. The method according to one of claims 1 to 12, comprising exposing the hair sample (102P, 702) to white light.

14. A method for individualized hair treatment, characterized by the steps of a) receiving interference patterns of multiple samples of hair (102) damaged to different degrees; b1) creating a calibration model that establishes a correlation between interference patterns and the degree of damage, b2) determining a degree of damage of the multiple samples of hair (102) damaged to different degrees according to the method according to according to claim 1; c) receiving interference patterns of the hair (102) of an individual; d) ascertaining a degree of damage to the hair (102) of this individual using the calibration model; e) outputting individual treatment advice relating to the hair (102) of the individual according to the determined degree of damage.

15. An arrangement (300, 700) for determining a degree of damage to hair (102), comprising: a lamp (701) which is configured to expose a hair sample (102P, 702) of the hair (102) to light (703), a light registering device (705) which is configured to register light (704) emitted by the hair sample (102P, 702); and the arrangement being characterized in that it further comprises a data processing apparatus (305, 706) which is configured to determine, on the basis of the registered light (704), first regions of the hair sample (102P, 702) that reflect the light (704) with higher interference and second regions of the hair sample (102P, 702) that reflect the light (704) with lower interference, and to determine a degree of damage of the hair sample (102P, 702) on the basis of the size of the first regions and the size of the second regions, the degree of damage being based on the total size of the first and / or the total size of the second regions, in particular based on the area proportion of the total size of the first regions to the total area of the hair sample or based on the ratio of the total size of the first regions to the total size of the second regions.