Gemstone to be set on a piece of jewellery

Abstract

The invention relates to a gemstone to be set on a piece of jewellery, comprising: • - a table (11) and / or a crown (12), • - a pavilion (14), • - a peripheral edge (13), forming for example a girdle, separating the pavilion from the table and / or from the crown, • - at least one recessed part formed in a part of the pavilion, • - at least one luminescent material (21) accommodated in at least a part of the recessed part, characterized in that the recessed part accommodating the luminescent material is arranged: • - in a peripheral zone of the pavilion facing the crown, and / or • - in a peripheral zone of the pavilion situated away from a central zone of the pavilion facing the table.

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates generally to a gemstone or stone for setting in a piece of jewelry. In particular, the invention relates to gemstones or stones for setting in a piece of jewelry that may exhibit a certain degree of transparency.

[0002] Such gems are frequently used in jewelry, but they can also be used to decorate timepieces, so in this application the term jewelry piece can refer equally to a piece of jewelry as to a watch, which may include gems set on the bracelet, on the buckle, on an external face of the case, on the bezel or even on parts of the watch located under the crystal such as a dial, a mainplate or a part of the watch movement. State of the art

[0003] In the earlier art of gem and gemstone setting, it is known to combine luminescent materials to create specific visual effects. Document WO201935974A1 discloses an example of a gem surrounded by a band of luminescent material. However, the visual aesthetics and refinement are affected by the band, which remains visible to the user, and this also impacts the overall size, as space must be allocated between the gems to accommodate the luminescent material.

[0004] Document CH703382A2, which discloses the preamble of claim 1, discloses a set of gems with hollows on a reflective layer. Description of the invention

[0005] One aim of the present invention is to address the disadvantages of the prior art mentioned above and in particular, first of all, to offer a gem to be set on a piece of jewelry, which includes a luminescent material, without affecting the visual appearance or the ability to mount several gems in a confined space.

[0006] To this end, a first aspect of the invention concerns a gemstone to be set in a piece of jewelry, comprising: a table and / or a crown, a breech face, a peripheral edge, forming for example a ring or a sash, separating the breech face from the table and / or the crown, at least one recessed part formed in a part of the breech face, characterized by: at least one luminescent material housed in at least one part of the recessed part, And the arrangement of the hollow part housing the luminescent material: in a peripheral area of ​​the cylinder head opposite the crown, and / or in a peripheral area of ​​the cylinder head located away from a central area of ​​the cylinder head opposite the table.

[0007] The gemstone, as described above, features a recessed area (a hole, a recess, a cavity, etc.) that houses the luminescent material. This recessed area is located at the pavilion and its periphery. Specifically, the recessed area containing the luminescent material is aligned with the crown and / or not with the table (either along an axial direction or perpendicular to the table). Consequently, this recessed area is not directly visible because it lies beneath the sloping peripheral portion of the visible gemstone. Due to refraction and reflection at the sloping peripheral walls of the upper, external, and visible portion, the recessed area containing the luminescent material is barely visible or not visible at all. Of course, other recessed areas without luminescent material can be incorporated.Finally, the arrangement of the hollow part and the luminescent material in the culet ensures that the external dimensions of the gem are identical to the same gem without the hollow part or luminescent material, thus providing the ability to house the gem in the same confined space.

[0008] In other words, one aspect of the invention relates to a gemstone to be set in a piece of jewelry, comprising: a culet, a peripheral edge, forming for example a girdle or a flaked edge, separating the culet from a part of the gem arranged to be visible to a wearer of the piece of jewelry, at least a hollow part formed in a part of the culet, a luminescent material housed in at least a part of the hollow part, characterized in that the hollow part housing the luminescent material is arranged in a peripheral area of ​​the breech located at a transverse distance from the peripheral edge of the gem, the transverse distance being less than 30% of an external dimension of the peripheral edge, and preferably the transverse distance being less than 20% of the external dimension of the peripheral edge.

[0009] The gemstone, as described above, has a recessed area (a hole, a recess, a cavity, etc.) that houses the luminescent material. This recess is located at the pavilion, on its outer periphery, which is traditionally beneath a rounded, inclined, chamfered edge of the upper, external, and visible portion of the gemstone. Consequently, due to refraction and reflection phenomena at the inclined peripheral walls of the upper, external, and visible portion, the recessed area containing the luminescent material is barely visible or not visible at all. In the above embodiment, the recessed area containing the luminescent material is positioned near the edge, but always beneath the visible portion, within the pavilion, and at a distance from the peripheral edge of less than 30% or 20% of the outer dimension of the peripheral edge.

[0010] The external dimension of the peripheral edge refers to the overall dimension in a plane transverse to or normal to the axis of the pavilion. In other words, the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the dimension of the gemstone when viewed along its principal axis once set. If the gemstone has a table, the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the overall dimension in a plane normal to the table. For example, if the gemstone is square when viewed from above, the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the side of the square. If the gemstone is rectangular when viewed from above, the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the length or width of the rectangle, depending on which side is closest to the recessed portion. If the gemstone is circular, then the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the diameter of the gemstone.If the gem has a polygonal shape, then the external dimension of the peripheral edge is the distance between two opposite sides of the gem (in the case of an even number of sides) or the distance between an opposite vertex and side of the gem (in the case of an odd number of sides).

[0011] Preferably, the luminescent material is photoluminescent, for example fluorescent or phosphorescent. Materials generating light according to one or the other of the above modes, or a mixture of the two or more materials generating light according to one and / or the other of the above modes, may be used.

[0012] In this application, a gem is defined, without limitation, as a fine, precious, or ornamental stone, or any very hard or colored material, natural or synthetic, that resembles such stones and is used as an ornament. Thus, depending on one embodiment, the gem may be a diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, quartz, amethyst, jade, etc., which are natural stones. Synthetic stones may also be included. Preferably, transparent or translucent gems may be included. Finally, amber or copal may also be included.

[0013] According to one embodiment, the cylinder head has a cylinder head depth, The recessed portion housing the luminescent material is positioned at an axial distance from the peripheral edge, and this axial distance is within a range of 5% to 75% of the cylinder head depth. Preferably, the axial distance is within a range of 5% to 50% of the cylinder head depth, and most preferably, the axial distance is within a range of 10% to 25% of the cylinder head depth. In this implementation, the recessed portion is very close to the peripheral edge (round or laminated), making it difficult for the user to distinguish the recessed portion. The illumination provided by the luminescent material will appear mysterious because, in daylight, the recessed portion, and therefore the luminescent material, will be indistinguishable from the peripheral edge or obscured by the effects of refraction and multiple reflections.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the axial distance is constant along the outer edge.

[0015] In one embodiment, the recessed area is partially coated with luminescent material, so that at least one portion remains free of luminescent material and available for setting the gemstone on the jewelry piece. In this embodiment, the recessed area that receives the luminescent material also has a free portion (i.e., the recessed area is not completely filled with the luminescent material), so that this free portion can form a gripping area for setting, resulting in a setting that is barely or not at all visible. However, the visual effect is not affected because the setting is performed on the gripping area that is devoid of luminescent material. Scratches, chips, and holes are therefore avoided. With a single recessed area, a special luminous effect can be achieved, and both functions can be achieved with little or no visibility to the user.

[0016] Of course, the gem according to the invention can be set using a classic setting technique (claw setting, bezel setting...).

[0017] In one embodiment, the luminescent material is arranged asymmetrically with respect to the free portion of the luminescent material holding the gemstone. The luminescent material can then be used to create specific effects. Alternatively, the setting can be carried out under a light that excites the luminescent material to achieve a specific orientation or alignment of the gemstone.

[0018] In one embodiment, the keeper portion of the recessed part is arranged on one side of the recessed part opposite the peripheral edge. The setting can therefore rest against the face of the gullet side to properly seat and hold the gemstone in the setting of the jewelry piece.

[0019] According to one embodiment, the hollow part forms a groove or a channel.

[0020] According to one embodiment, the attachment part is formed by a wall of the throat or groove free of luminescent material.

[0021] According to one embodiment, the free luminescent material attachment part is formed by an external peripheral part of the wall of the groove or channel, arranged on the side opposite the peripheral edge.

[0022] According to one embodiment, the groove or channel is provided over at least 40% of the circumference of the cylinder head, and preferably at least 70% of the circumference of the cylinder head.

[0023] According to one embodiment, the luminescent material comprises a matrix and a luminescent composition, preferably photoluminescent.

[0024] In one embodiment, the matrix is ​​a polymeric material, such as a resin, for example, a resin containing a catalyst or a UV (ultraviolet) curable resin. A resin can be designed to allow setting before polymerization, so that during setting, parts of the jewelry piece (the prongs or the set edges) can interfere with or penetrate the still-malleable resin, which does not crack or flake, and the resin polymerizes once the setting is complete.

[0025] According to one embodiment, the luminescent composition comprises at least one fluorescent compound and / or at least one phosphorescent compound, such as strontium aluminate SrAl2O4, preferably doped with a rare earth such as scandium, and / or yttrium and / or lanthanides, for example europium and / or dysprosium.

[0026] According to one embodiment, the gem to be set comprises a first luminescent material having at least one first luminescent property and at least one second luminescent material having at least one second luminescent property different from the first luminescent property.

[0027] In one embodiment, the first luminescent material is arranged in a first relative position with respect to the mounting portion, and the second luminescent material is arranged in a second relative position with respect to the mounting portion, different from the first relative position. This implementation allows for visual effects such as specific patterns or designs. Such an implementation can also be used to assist in the manufacturing process, allowing the gem to be mounted under a light that excites either the first or second luminescent material, thus helping the operator to mount the gem in a particular position. Once the excitation light is switched off, the gem will revert to its "natural" appearance to the user, who will not be able to see how the mounting was performed.In other words, the invention provides an assembly method in which an illumination step with a particular excitation light is provided during crimping, to indicate a particular mounting orientation.

[0028] Another aspect of the invention relates to a piece of jewelry, such as a jewel or a timepiece, comprising at least one gem to be set according to one of the preceding claims. Description of the figures

[0029] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following detailed description of an embodiment of the invention given by way of non-limiting example and illustrated by the accompanying drawings, in which: [ fig. 1 ] represents a perspective view of a gem according to the present invention; [ fig. 2 ] represents a side view of the gem of the figure 1 ; fig. 3 ] represents the top of the gem of the figure 1 ; fig. 4 ] represents the underside of the gem of the figure 1 . Detailed description of implementation method(s)

[0030] There figure 1 represents in perspective view a gem to be set comprising a table 11, a crown 12, a peripheral edge 13 (a girdle or a foliate) and a culet 14.

[0031] In this example, the gem is cut in a baguette shape, but any type of cut or stone shape can be considered, such as a brilliant cut, a diamond cut, an emerald cut, a pear cut, a marquise cut, a heart cut or even a cushion cut... It can be noted that the presence of the table is not essential, and the upper part can have a raised shape in its entirety instead of a flat shape.

[0032] Typically, the peripheral edge 13 separates an "invisible" or "internal" part of the gem (the culet 14) intended to be set in a piece of jewelry, from a "visible" or "external" part of the gem once set on the piece of jewelry (the crown 12 and the table 11).

[0033] The inclined walls of the breech 14 include two continuous grooves 15, forming recessed sections, arranged near the peripheral edge 13 of the gem. As can be seen figures 1, 2 And 4 , two grooves 15 are provided along the short sides of the gem, but one could provide them on each side, around the entire perimeter, and / or discontinuously along the walls of the breech 14.

[0034] For example, for a gem 1.25 mm high, the grooves 15 can have a width of 0.10 mm and a depth of 0.10 mm or 0.15 mm. They can be made by laser ablation or by grinding.

[0035] Other shapes besides grooves are possible, such as blind holes or notches with sharp edges. Varying shapes can also be used along the periphery of the cylinder head 14.

[0036] These figures 1, 2 And 4 They also show that the grooves 15 are partially filled with a luminescent material 21. It can be noted that on the figure 4 , only the right-hand groove 15 is shown with luminescent material 21 to clearly show the left-hand groove 15 alone, but in this example, both grooves 15 are shown with luminescent material 21.

[0037] However, only one of the two grooves can be filled with luminescent material 21. Alternatively, the left-hand groove 15 can be filled with one luminescent material and the right-hand groove with a second. For larger gems, a single groove can also be filled with two or more different luminescent materials.

[0038] In the embodiment shown, only the upper parts of the grooves 15 are covered with the luminescent material 21, but it is possible to completely fill the grooves 15. The luminescent material 21 can be provided over the entire length of the grooves 15, but it is also possible to leave discontinuously parts free of the luminescent material 21.

[0039] The luminescent material 21 is preferably photoluminescent, of the fluorescent and / or phosphorescent type (mixtures of fluorescent and / or phosphorescent materials are possible). Flakes or particles of the luminescent material (e.g., strontium aluminate SrAl2O4) can be dispersed in a matrix, for example, a polymer material such as a resin (e.g., a polyester resin). This allows for the formation of a layer that covers all or part of the walls of the grooves 15, or even a sufficient quantity to fill all or part of the walls of the grooves 15.

[0040] The luminescent material 21 can therefore emit light in response to light excitation after a longer or shorter delay. Due to its arrangement in the grooves 15, visual and lighting effects can be created, increasing design possibilities and freedom.

[0041] As shown by figure 3 which is a top view of the gem and which corresponds to what a user can see of the gem once set on the piece of jewelry, the grooves 15 are not visible because they are hidden by the external faces, and in particular by the crown 12 mainly and the table 11 to a lesser extent.

[0042] In particular, the figure 2 And 4 show that the grooves 15 are arranged in the peripheral part of the cylinder head 14, near the peripheral edge 13. Thus, on the figure 2 and according to the vertical direction of this figure which corresponds to the axial direction of the gem, the grooves 15 are arranged at an axial distance Da from the peripheral edge 13 (Da is the distance between the lower edge of the peripheral edge 13 and the edge of the groove 15 closest to the peripheral edge 13). The breech 14 has a breech depth Pc, and the gem has a total height Ht.

[0043] Regarding the figure 4 , we can note that the length of the gem is an external dimension of the peripheral edge De, and that the bottom of the groove 15 (part furthest from the peripheral edge 13) is located at a transverse distance Dt from the peripheral edge 13 (Dt is the distance between the lower edge of the peripheral edge 13 and the bottom of the groove 15 furthest from the peripheral edge 13).

[0044] In order to limit as much as possible the impact of the presence of the groove 1 (and the luminescent material 21) on the general appearance of the gem, it is planned to arrange the grooves 15 and the luminescent material 21 in the breech 14 and near the peripheral edge 13.

[0045] Indeed, in reference to the figure 2 If, according to the vertical direction of this figure, the grooves 15 and the luminescent material 21 are positioned opposite the ring 12, and not opposite the table 11, then the grooves 15 and the luminescent material 21 will be barely or not at all visible to a user. This concealment is achieved by the inclined faces of the ring 12 and the associated phenomena of refraction and reflection.

[0046] In detail, we can foresee that the axial distance Da is within a range of 5% to 75% of the cylinder head depth Pc, preferably, from 5% to 50% of the cylinder head depth Pc, and very preferably, the axial distance Da is within a range of 10% to 25% of the cylinder head depth Pc.

[0047] As an example, the total height Ht can be 1.25 mm, the breech depth Da can be 0.96 mm and the axial distance Da can be 0.10 mm.

[0048] With reference to the figure 4 , we can predict that the transverse distance Dt will be less than 30% and preferably 20% of the external dimension of the peripheral edge De. For a baguette-cut gem as on the figure 4 with a rectangle length of 2 mm forming the external dimension of the peripheral edge De, the transverse dimension Dt can be from 0.15 mm to 0.2 mm.

[0049] We can also note figures 1 et 2 that the lower part of the grooves 15 is free of luminescent material 21, so that these surfaces arranged on the side of the gullet 14 remain completely available for setting the gem. Consequently, a single groove 15 can include or house luminescent material 21 and offer a free setting interface, which limits the risk of damage (scratches, chipping or holes...) to the luminescent material 21 that could occur during setting. Industrial application

[0050] The preparation of a gem, with the machining of the hollow parts and the deposition of the luminescent material, is likely to have industrial application.

[0051] It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements obvious to a person skilled in the art can be made to the different embodiments of the invention described in this description without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. Gemstone to be set on a piece of jewellery, comprising: - a table (11) and / or a crown (12), - a pavilion (14), - a peripheral edge (13), forming for example a girdle or a feuilletis, separating the pavilion (14) from the table (11) and / or from the crown (12), - at least one hollow portion formed in a portion of the pavilion (14), characterized in that: - at least one luminescent material (21) housed in at least a portion of the hollow portion, and in that the hollow portion housing the luminescent material (21) is arranged: - in a peripheral zone of the pavilion (14) facing the crown (12), and / or - in a peripheral zone of the pavilion (14) located away from a central zone of the pavilion (14) facing the table (11).

2. Gemstone to be set on a piece of jewellery, comprising: - a pavilion (14), - a peripheral edge (13), forming for example a girdle or a feuilletis, separating the pavilion (14) from a portion of the gemstone arranged to be visible by a wearer of the piece of jewellery, - at least one hollow portion formed in a portion of the pavilion (14), - a luminescent material (21) housed in at least a portion of the hollow portion, characterized in that the hollow portion housing the luminescent material (21) is arranged in a peripheral zone of the pavilion (14) located at a transverse distance (Dt) from the peripheral edge (13) of the gemstone, the transverse distance (Dt) being less than 30% of an external dimension (De) of the peripheral edge (13), and preferably the transverse distance (Dt) being less than 20% of the external dimension (De) of the peripheral edge (13).

3. Gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the pavilion (14) has a pavilion depth (Pc), wherein the hollow portion housing the luminescent material (21) is arranged at an axial distance (Da) from the peripheral edge (13), and wherein the axial distance (Da) is comprised in a range from 5% to 75% of the pavilion depth (Pc), preferably the axial distance (Da) is comprised in a range from 5% to 50% of the pavilion depth (Pc), and very preferably, the axial distance (Da) is comprised in a range from 10% to 25% of the pavilion depth (Pc).

4. Gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the hollow portion partially receives the luminescent material (21), so as to present at least one securing portion free of luminescent material (21) and available for setting the gemstone on the piece of jewellery.

5. Gemstone to be set according to the preceding claim, wherein the luminescent material (21) is arranged asymmetrically with respect to the securing portion free of luminescent material (21).

6. Gemstone to be set according to any of claims 4 or 5, wherein the securing portion of the hollow portion is arranged on a side of the hollow portion opposite to the peripheral edge (13).

7. Gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the hollow portion forms a groove (15) or a channel.

8. Gemstone to be set according to the preceding claim, in its dependency on any of claims 4 to 6, wherein the securing portion is formed by a wall of the channel or of the groove (15) free of luminescent material (21).

9. Gemstone to be set according to the preceding claim, wherein the securing portion free of luminescent material (21) is formed by an outer peripheral part of the wall of the channel or of the groove (15), arranged on the side opposite to the peripheral edge (13).

10. Gemstone to be set according to any of claims 7 to 9, wherein the groove (15) or the channel is provided over at least 40% of the perimeter of the pavilion (14), and preferably over at least 70% of the perimeter of the pavilion (14).

11. Gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the luminescent material (21) comprises a matrix and a luminescent composition, preferably photoluminescent.

12. Gemstone to be set according to the preceding claim, wherein the matrix is a polymeric material, such as a resin, for example a resin comprising a catalyst or a resin polymerizable by UV rays.

13. Gemstone to be set according to any of claims 11 or 12, wherein the luminescent composition comprises at least one fluorescent compound and / or at least one phosphorescent compound, such as for example strontium aluminate SrAl2O4, preferably doped with a rare earth such as scandium, and / or yttrium and / or lanthanides, for example europium and / or dysprosium.

14. Gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims, comprising a first luminescent material (21) having at least a first luminescent property and at least a second luminescent material (21) having at least a second luminescent property different from the first luminescent property.

15. Gemstone to be set according to the preceding claim, in its dependency on any of claims 4 to 6, wherein the first luminescent material (21) is arranged at a first relative position with respect to the securing portion, and the second luminescent material (21) is arranged at a second relative position with respect to the securing portion different from the first relative position.

16. Piece of jewellery, such as a jewel or a timepiece, comprising at least one gemstone to be set according to any of the preceding claims.

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