Temperature stable emulsions

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion.

Description

[0001] Temperature-stable emulsions

[0002] Cosmetic products generally serve not only to make people look beautiful and attractive, but also contribute significantly to increased self-esteem and well-being. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleansing and care of human skin.

[0003] Skin care products typically consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems consisting of two immiscible or only slightly miscible liquids, commonly referred to as phases, in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other in the form of tiny droplets. Externally and to the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

[0004] If the two liquids are water and oil, and oil droplets are finely dispersed in the water, the emulsion is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, e.g., milk. The basic character of an O / W emulsion is determined by the water. A water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion (e.g., butter) operates in the opposite direction, with the basic character being determined by the oil.

[0005] To stabilize and thicken O / W emulsions, acrylate-based polymers are usually incorporated into these formulations. Acrylate-based polymers are polymers obtained from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid. Examples include carbomer and acrylate copolymer.

[0006] Emulsions with acrylates are known from DE 10148825 A1, DE 19938756 A1 and DE 29924371 U1, among others.

[0007] Formulations with acrylate-based polymers offer a wide range of advantages. For example, the formulations are often characterized by low tackiness. Furthermore, the formulations are well protected against the formation of flocculation and / or clumps during extended storage periods, for example, over 30 days at -10°C. If the temperature of the formulation is raised to 20°C after storage for 30 days at -10°C, it is described as soft and smooth. However, the use of these acrylate-based polymers is increasingly criticized because their biodegradability is not fully understood.

[0008] A disadvantage of the prior art is that it is almost impossible to combine low tack with temperature stability against flocculation or clumping at -10°C for several months without using acrylate-based polymers. Those skilled in the art are aware of the use of short-chain diols, which leads to better temperature stability but simultaneously increases the tackiness of the formula. The use of individual biopolymers or different combinations often leads to insufficient temperature stability or high tack.

[0009] Surprisingly, the present discovery was able to address the problems of the state of the art.

[0010] The invention relates to an acrylate-free cosmetic emulsion comprising a) an emulsifier system which forms a liquid crystalline network in the emulsion, b) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate c) gellan gum.

[0011] By definition, acrylate-free means that it does not contain any polymers obtained from homo- or copolymerization with acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.

[0012] By definition, fatty alcohols have a C-10 to C-20 carbon chain. Accordingly, the alcohol residues of fatty alcohol glucosides also have such a carbon chain.

[0013] By definition, the presence of the emulsifier system leads to the formation of a liquid crystalline network in the formulation. A liquid crystalline network is characterized and defined by the formation of liquid crystalline structures. By definition, the emulsifier system must contribute to the formation of liquid crystalline structures.

[0014] The invention also relates to the use of the emulsion of the invention to provide a cosmetic product. Advantageously, it is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0015] If weight percentages (wt%) are stated below without reference to a specific composition or specific mixture, these figures always refer to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed below, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the stated components / substances / groups of substances.

[0016] If weight percentage ranges for the components of the cosmetic emulsion are given below, the disclosure of the present application also includes all individual values ​​in steps of 0.1 wt.% within these weight percentage ranges.

[0017] The phrases “according to the invention”, “advantageous according to the invention”, “advantageous within the meaning of the present invention” etc. always refer in the context of the present disclosure to both the preparation according to the invention and the use according to the invention.

[0018] Unless otherwise stated, all tests were conducted under standard conditions. The term "standard conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa, and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0019] When the term skin is used, it preferably refers to human skin.

[0020] If viscosity values ​​are given in this disclosure, all values ​​refer to measurements at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-neck bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 2 (item no. 200 0192), speed range 62.5 min-1.

[0021] According to the invention, the emulsion comprises an emulsifier system that forms a liquid-crystalline network within the emulsion. The presence of such a network is accordingly a feature of the emulsion according to the invention. It is advantageously a liquid-crystalline gel network.

[0022] It has surprisingly been found that the gel network specifically formed in this invention, in combination with the other components of the invention, allows the provision of acrylate-free emulsions which exhibit less clumping even when stored at -10°C.

[0023] The emulsifier system according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one fatty alcohol glucoside. The fatty alcohol glucoside is advantageously selected from the group comprising the INCI names Arachidyl Glucoside; O10-16 Alkyl Glucoside; O12-18 Alkyl Glucoside; O12-20 Alkyl Glucoside; Coco-glucoside; O9-11 Alkyl Glucoside; Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside; Caprylyl Glucoside; Cetearyl Glucoside; Decyl Glucoside; Isostearyl Glucoside; Lauryl Glucoside; Myristyl Glucoside and / or Undecyl Glucoside. Preferred are cetearyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and myristyl glucoside. Cetearyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

[0024] Advantageously, the weight fraction of the total fatty alcohol glucosides in the emulsion is from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.6 to 2.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0025] It is also advantageous if the total weight proportion of arachidyl glucoside; C10-16 alkyl glucoside; C12-18 alkyl glucoside; C12-20 alkyl glucoside; coco-glucoside; C9-11 alkyl glucoside; caprylyl / capryl glucoside; caprylyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; decyl glucoside; isostearyl glucoside; lauryl glucoside; myristyl glucoside and / or undecyl glucoside is from 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.6 to 2.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0026] It is particularly advantageous if the proportion of cetearyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and / or myristyl glucoside is from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.6 to 2.5 wt. %, and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 2.2 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion. It is particularly advantageous if the proportion of cetearyl glucoside is from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 to 3.5 wt. %, preferably from 0.6 to 2.5 wt. %, and particularly preferably from 0.9 to 2.2 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0027] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsifier system comprises sorbitan stearate. If sorbitan stearate is present, the total proportion of sorbitan stearate is advantageously from 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 1.0 wt.%, and in particular 0.2 to 0.8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0028] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsifier system comprises disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate. If disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate is present, the total proportion of disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate is advantageously from 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.02 to 0.2 wt.%, and in particular 0.04 to 0.10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0029] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsifier system comprises glyceryl stearate. If glyceryl stearate is present, the total proportion of glyceryl stearate is advantageously from 0.1 to 1.8 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, and in particular 0.7 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0030] Furthermore, the emulsifier system advantageously additionally comprises myristyl alcohol. The proportion of myristyl alcohol is advantageously from 0.2 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.5 to 4.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.0 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0031] Liquid crystalline structures in emulsions can be visualized using polarized light microscopy. Reference is made to the publication "Study on the Formation and Properties of Liquid Crystal Emulsion in Cosmetics," Wanping Zhang*, Lingyan Liu School of Perfume and Aroma Technology, Shanghai Institute of Technology, Shanghai, China. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 2013.

[0032] The liquid-crystalline structures in the emulsion of the invention advantageously have a globular structure. This is recognizable by the appearance of the typical Maltese crosses in light micrographs taken with polarized light. Furthermore, the emulsion of the invention comprises at least hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate. The total proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate is advantageously from 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.25 to 0.9 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0033] The emulsion of the invention further comprises gellan gum. Advantageously, the proportion of gellan gum is from 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.03 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.04 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0034] Furthermore, it is advantageous if xanthan gum is also included. If xanthan gum is included, it is preferred if the proportion of xanthan gum is from 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.03 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.04 to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0035] Furthermore, it is advantageous if additional polysaccharides are included. These additional polysaccharides can advantageously be selected from other polysaccharides from the groups of polysaccharide gums, starches, and / or celluloses.

[0036] Among the polysaccharide gums, the substances known under the INCI names Guar Gum, Sclerotium Gum and / or Tara Gum are particularly preferred.

[0037] Among the starches, the substances known under the INCI names Zea Mays Starch, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Tapioca Starch and / or Potato Starch Modified are preferred.

[0038] Among the celluloses, the substances known under the INCI names ethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and / or hydroxyethylcellulose are preferred. The proportion of other polysaccharides in the emulsion is advantageously from 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0039] Advantageously, the proportion of the further polysaccharide gums in the emulsion is from 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0040] Advantageously, the proportion of the other starches in the emulsion is from 0.01 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0041] The proportion of celluloses in the emulsion is advantageously from 0.01 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. The total proportion of ethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and / or hydroxyethylcellulose in the emulsion is advantageously from 0.01 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.6 to 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0042] In the prior art, it is common practice to add short-chain diols containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as butylene glycol or 1,2-propanediol, to emulsions to prevent flocculation / clumping of formula components at -10°C. Surprisingly, it has now been found that such freezing stability is achieved even in the absence of these substances. It can be assumed that the polymers according to the invention, in conjunction with the formed liquid-crystalline structures, contribute to stabilization. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that formulations without short-chain diols containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms exhibit significantly reduced tackiness. Low tackiness is a particular problem with acrylate-free formulations.

[0043] Accordingly, it is preferred according to the invention if the proportion of short-chain diols having 3 to 5 carbon atoms is less than 0.5 wt.%, preferably less than 0.25 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Accordingly, it is preferred if no short-chain diols having 3 to 5 carbon atoms are present.

[0044] Furthermore, the emulsion advantageously comprises at least one wax component with a melting point of less than 43°C.

[0045] Advantageously, at least one wax component is included that has a melting point in the range of 25°C to 43°C. The presence of such low-melting wax components ensures that the preparation melts on human skin. Surprisingly, the consistency was almost maintained, especially at temperatures around 45°C. Furthermore, phase separation at 45°C was surprisingly prevented.

[0046] Fatty alcohols and fatty acids containing alkyl chains with 10 to 20 carbon atoms are, by definition, not considered wax components.

[0047] Advantageously, the total content of the wax components having a melting point in the range from 25°C to 43°C is from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 4.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] Preferred wax components in the melting range mentioned are myristyl myristate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides and / or cetyl ricinoleate.

[0049] Advantageously, the total content of myristyl myristate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides and / or cetyl ricinoleate is from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 4.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 2.2 to 3.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0050] If myristyl myristate is included, it is advantageous if the proportion of myristyl myristate is from 0.5 to 5.5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 4.5 wt.% and particularly preferably from 1.4 to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If hydrogenated coco-glycerides is included, it is preferred if the proportion of hydrogenated coco-glycerides is from 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 to 2.0 wt.% and preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If cetyl ricinoleate is included, it is preferred if the proportion of cetyl ricinoleate is from 0.01 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 wt.% and preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0051] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if high-melting waxes with a melting point above 43°C are not included or if their proportions are less than 0.5 wt.% of the emulsion. Surprisingly, stable formulations at 45°C could be produced without the need to incorporate high-melting wax components. It is assumed that the formation of the liquid crystalline structures at 45°C enables the stability of the formulation, preventing phase separation and maintaining consistency.

[0052] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the emulsion comprises one or more oil components that are liquid under normal conditions. Generally, the proportion of oil components that are liquid under normal conditions is from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Advantageously included oils are selected from natural oils.Beneficially contained natural oils are selected from the group Persea Gratissima Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Vegetable Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil and / or Glycine Soja Oil. If natural oils are included, the total content of these oils is advantageously from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0053] Furthermore, it is advantageous if one or more esters of coconut fatty alcohol are present. Coco-caprylates / caprates are particularly preferred. If an ester of a coconut fatty alcohol is present, the proportion of these esters is advantageously from 0.2 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.8 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If coco-caprylates / caprates are present, the proportion of coco-caprylates / caprates is advantageously from 0.2 to 4 wt.%, preferably from 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably from 0.8 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0054] Furthermore, it is preferred if one or more oils are present which are triglycerides of 3 identical fatty acids. Triisostearin is particularly preferred. If triglycerides of 3 identical fatty acids are present, the proportion of these triglycerides is advantageously from 0.05 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.08 to 1.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. If triisostearin is present, the proportion of triisostearin is advantageously from 0.05 to 2 wt.%, preferably 0.08 to 1.0 wt.% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0055] Additionally, it is advantageous if one or more fatty alcohols having 16 to 24 carbon atoms are present, the total proportion of these fatty alcohols being from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. In particular, cetearyl alcohol is present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0056] Furthermore, it has been shown that it is advantageous if one or more fatty acids having 14 to 24 carbon atoms are contained in the emulsion, wherein their proportion is advantageously from 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably from 1.5 wt.% to 4 wt.% and particularly preferably from 1.8 to 3.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0057] Furthermore, the emulsion according to the invention is preferably characterized in that it contains glycerol in a proportion of 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0058] Furthermore, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0059] If the emulsion contains benzyl alcohol, it is preferred if the proportion of benzyl alcohol is from 0.05 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0060] If the emulsion contains phenoxyethanol, it is preferred if the total proportion of phenoxyethanol is from 0.1% by weight to 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0061] If the emulsion contains ethylhexylglycerin, it is preferred if the proportion of ethylhexylglycerin is from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0062] Furthermore, it is advantageous if embodiments of the invention are characterized by containing ethanol. If ethanol is present in the emulsion, the proportion of ethanol is preferably from 0.5 wt.% to 10 wt.%, preferably from 1.5 wt.% to 5.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0063] Last but not least, advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains one or more active ingredients selected from the group of the compounds glycyrrhetinic acid, urea, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamide, vitamin A palmitate, panthenol, licochalcone A, rucinol, N-[(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl]isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of magnolia extracts), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin (milk thistle extract). Furthermore, emulsions advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that they contain water in a proportion of 60 wt.% to 95 wt.% and preferably of 70 wt.% to 90 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

[0064] Furthermore, advantageous emulsions according to the invention have a viscosity of 8000 mPa s to 30,000 mPa s 24 hours after preparation. When viscosity is mentioned in this disclosure, all values ​​refer to measurements at 25°C in a 150 ml crimp-edge glass using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e., a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 2 (item no. 200 0192), speed range 62.5 min -1 , is used. All viscosity measurements are always taken 24 hours after the emulsion is prepared.

[0065] Comparative tests and examples

[0066] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations.

[0067] The following table, with Examples 1 to 11, shows various formulations. Example 1 is a non-inventive example, representing a conventional formulation with the acrylate-based polymer carbomer. After storage for 30 days at -10°C and subsequent thawing to 20°C, the formulation of Example 1 was tested. The formulation exhibits low stickiness. Furthermore, after thawing, there is little clumping and it is accordingly uniform, smooth, and soft. The formulation exhibits no liquid crystalline structures.

[0068] Example 2 is a non-inventive example in which the addition of polymers was omitted. The same storage and thawing process was used as in Example 1. The formulation is characterized by low stickiness, but significantly increased clumping is observed after thawing. Examples 3 to 7 are also non-inventive reference examples, which tend to exhibit increased clumping after thawing. Different polymers are used here.

[0069] Examples 8 to 10 are exemplary formulations according to the invention. These exhibit globular liquid-crystalline structures, which were detected by optical microscopy with polarized light. Surprisingly, it was found that the presence of the liquid-crystalline structures in combination with the polymers according to the invention stabilizes the formulations with regard to clumping after thawing. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that low stickiness was observed. Consequently, the disadvantages resulting from the omission of acrylate-containing polymers were mitigated by the present invention.

[0070] Example 11 is a non-inventive example which shows that freezing stability at -10°C can be achieved with the addition of diols such as butylene glycol, but that there is a significant undesirable increase in stickiness.

[0071] Sensory evaluation method of stickiness for the present emulsions:

[0072] 1. Division of the inner forearm into two test areas

[0073] 2. Wash the relevant part of the arm (not the entire forearm) and hands

[0074] 3. After waiting for 3 minutes, apply 200 ml of an emulsion to the center of the palm

[0075] 4. The emulsion is then spread over the test area using circular movements with the entire palm of the hand (one circle per second).

[0076] 5. The emulsion is distributed until the product is absorbed (max. 90 seconds)

[0077] 6. The ball of the hand is then pressed once onto the test site (area between the inner and outer side of the forearm) and the stickiness attribute is assessed (0 not sticky, 5 very sticky).

[0078] Each formulation was measured 6 times by volunteers.

[0079]

[0080] The following examples are intended to further illustrate the invention without limiting it.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Acrylate-free cosmetic emulsion comprising a) An emulsifier system which forms a liquid crystalline network in the emulsion, b) Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate, c) Gellan gum.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1 characterized in that the emulsion is an O / W emulsion.

3. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the emulsifier system comprises at least one fatty alcohol glucoside.

4. Emulsion according to claim 3 characterized in that it contains cetearyl glucosides.

5. Emulsion according to one of claims 3 or 4 characterized in that the weight fraction of the total fatty alcohol glucosides in the emulsion is 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.6 to 2.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

6. Emulsion according to one of claims 3 to 5 characterized in that the proportion of cetearyl glucoside is 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt.%, preferably 0.6 to 2.5 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.9 to 2.2 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.

7. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the emulsifier system comprises sorbitan stearate, wherein it is advantageous if the proportion of sorbitan stearate is 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 1.0 wt.% and in particular 0.2 to 0.8 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

8. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the emulsifier system comprises glyceryl stearate, wherein it is advantageous if the proportion of glyceryl stearate is 0.1 to 1.8 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt.% and in particular 0.7 to 1.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifier system comprises myristyl alcohol, advantageously comprising 0.2 to 6.5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.5 to 4.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3.0 to 4.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid crystalline network is characterized in that it exists as a liquid crystalline structure in a globular form. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total proportion of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and / or distarch phosphate is 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.25 to 0.9 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of gellan gum is 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.03 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.04 wt.% to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. An emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains xanthan gum, wherein it is advantageous if the proportion of xanthan gum is 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.03 wt.% to 0.3 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.04 wt.% to 0.2 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the proportion of short-chain diols comprising 3 to 5 carbon atoms is less than 0.5 wt.%, preferably less than 0.25 wt.%, preferably less than 0.1 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it contains at least one wax component which has a melting point in the range of 25°C to 43°C, wherein it is advantageous if the proportion of these wax components is from 0.5 to 5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 4.5 wt.% and. particularly preferably 1.5 to 3.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

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