Semisolid composition for scalp and hair, method for obtaining and use thereof

Abstract

The present invention describes a semisolid composition for topical administration onto the scalp and hair comprising enriched extract of coffee silverskin and fresh olive pomace. The present invention further describes the method for obtaining such semisolid composition by using environmentally friend solvent-free technologies and its use. The enriched extract of coffee silverskin is loaded into environmentally and physiologically friendly lipid nanocarriers. The loaded nanocarriers are then dispersed into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients. The added value of the invention over traditionally available hair care products is the improved nutritional / bioactive value of combining coffee silverskin-loaded nanocarriers into an olive pomace-based natural semisolid system with expected synergistic effects against dandruff and to nourish the skin and hair structure.

Description

SEMISOLID COMPOSITION FOR SCALP AND HAIR, METHOD FOR OBTAINING AND USE THEREOF

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and describes a semisolid composition for topical administration onto the scalp and hair comprising enriched extract of coffee silverskin and fresh olive pomace.

[0002] It is also an object of the present invention the method for obtaining such semisolid composition by using environmentally friend solvent-free technologies and its use.

[0003] Food by-products (FBP) correspond to one-third of all the produced food production1. They contain bioactive compounds with effective biological activities but they usually do not have added value, and their disposal represents a cost to the companies. Among the FBPs, coffee silverskin and olive pomace are receiving significant attention due to their richness in bioactive compounds1-4.

[0004] Coffee silverskin is obtained during industrial coffee roasting, with a mean reduction of 30 kg for each four tons of coffee bean roasted. About 10 million tons of coffee are consumed worldwide and only in Portugal at least 300 tons per year are produced.

[0005] Olive pomace is the major by-product of olive oil chain production, being Portugal one of the largest producers of this phytotoxic by-product5. Thus, these high amounts of by-products are a heavy environmental burden and need a green approach in terms of sustainability and circular economy.

[0006] One innovative enhancement is the use of these by-products as bioactive ingredients for nutraceuticals, cosmetics and body care and hair care products3,6-9.

[0007] Nowadays, environmental concern implies the use of green chemistry methodologies to avoid pollution and health hazards. Extraction efficiency must be improved using different water / ethanol ratios assisted by mechanical conditions to obtain the bioactive compounds6,10.

[0008] Furthermore, a series of adsorbent resins (ARCC) can be used to eliminate non-active ones and preconcentrate targeted compounds, promoting activity in minimal doses, according to previously developed methods6,10-12.

[0009] Hair care market is one of the largest personal markets in Europe and worldwide. Hair care products are developed to provide additional benefits besides washing the hair, such as increase shining effects, repair damage, promote nutrition to strengthen hair fiber, and even treating dandruff.

[0010] In this context, the present invention describes an innovative semisolid composition for topical administration onto the scalp and hair comprising enriched extract of coffee silverskin and fresh olive pomace.

[0011] Coffee and coffee by-products have already shown to be effective as moisturizers, hair growth stimulators, anti-dandruff, being also strong antioxidants13-15. In addition, olive pomace paste contains high amounts of hair-required nutrients, such as vitamin E, hydroxytyrosol, tyrosyl, among other16, 17.

[0012] The present invention relates, in a first aspect, to a semisolid composition for scalp and hair comprising:

[0013] - 0.1 to 5 % of weight of enriched extract of coffee silverskin;

[0014] - 0.1 to 20 % of weight of fresh olive pomace; and

[0015] - cosmetically acceptable green excipients;

[0016] wherein the extract of coffee silverskin is enriched in caffeine and phenolics;

[0017] wherein the enriched extract of coffee silverskin is loaded into lipid nanocarriers and then dispersed into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.

[0018] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for obtaining the semisolid composition comprising the steps of:

[0019] a. preparing the enriched extract of coffee silverskin;

[0020] b. obtaining the lipid nanocarriers loaded with the enriched extract of coffee silverskin; and

[0021] c. incorporating the loaded lipid nanocarriers into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.

[0022] In a third aspect, the present invention discloses the use of the semisolid composition for scalp and hair as a hair care product, the hair care product being selected from the group consisting of shampoo, serum, mask and conditioner.

[0023] Food by-products (FBPs) represent a significant loss of valuable resources, not only as regards the water, energy, land, and labour used in the production of the original food, but also as regards their richness in bioactive compounds.

[0024] Most of the products available on the market do not include FBPs as ingredients: instead, they routinely contain synthetic compounds in their formulations. Of note, even when compounds of natural sources are used, no FBPs are found in the compositions.

[0025] One of the objectives of the present invention is to achieve zero-waste and to respond to circular economy, with a view to address environmental needs, sustainability goals, health benefits and consumer acceptance while using green methodologies.

[0026] Therefore, the present invention provides a semisolid composition for topical administration onto the scalp and hair comprising enriched extract of coffee silverskin and olive pomace, as well as a method for obtaining thereof and its use. Due to their bioactive compounds, the coffee silverskin and the olive pomace arise as promising components in the cosmetic area.

[0027] Also, while there are several studies in literature that raise concerns about the safety of lipid-based nanocarriers (reporting the use of organic solvents, such as dichloromethane and hexane)18and some hair care products with irritating detergents (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate)19-20, the present invention uses no non-green solvents, plasticizers, or chelating agents.

[0028] Combining enriched extracts of coffee silverskin (stimulation of hair growth, anti-dandruff, strong antioxidant) and olive pomace (high content of hair-required nutrients, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties) on a semisolid composition is expected to promote a synergistic effect on hair growth, anti-dandruff action, as well as on hair nourishing.

[0029] Thus, the present invention aims to ensure scalp / hair benefits and increase human self-confidence, as well as simultaneously decrease the environmental impact of the FBPs disposal.

[0030] To improve the sensory attributes and promote targeted delivery of bioactive compounds to the scalp, enriched extracts of coffee silverskin are formulated with innovative environmentally and physiologically friendly lipid nanocarriers prior to their dispersion into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.

[0031] In order to facilitate an understanding of the principles according to the embodiments of this invention, reference will be made to the illustrated embodiments in the Figures and the language used to describe them.

[0032] It should also be understood that there is no intention to limit the scope of the invention to the content of the Figures and that modifications to the inventive features illustrated herein, as well as additional applications of the illustrated principles and embodiments, which would normally occur to a person skilled in the art having possession of this description, are considered within the scope of the claimed invention.Fig.1

[0033] graphically represents the firmness and cohesiveness recorded during texture analysis of the shampoo.Fig.2

[0034] graphically represents the oscillation frequency test of the shampoo, over the frequency range from 0 to 10 Hz at constant stress amplitude of 5 Pa (linear viscoelastic region).Fig.3

[0035] graphically represents firmness and cohesiveness recorded during texture analysis of the cream.Fig.4

[0036] graphically represents the oscillation frequency test of the cream, over the frequency range from 0 to 10 Hz at constant stress amplitude of 5 Pa (linear viscoelastic region).

[0037] The present invention relates, in a first aspect, to a semisolid composition for scalp and hair comprising:

[0038] - 0.1 to 5 % of weight of enriched extract of coffee silverskin;

[0039] - 0.1 to 20 % of weight of fresh olive pomace; and

[0040] - one or more cosmetically acceptable green excipients;

[0041] wherein the extract of coffee silverskin is enriched in caffeine and phenolics;

[0042] wherein the enriched extract of coffee silverskin is loaded into lipid nanocarriers and then dispersed into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.

[0043] The coffee silverskin results from the roast of commercial blends composed ofCoffea arabicaandCoffeacanephorabeans, being the major by-product of the coffee industry. The olive pomace is the solid residue obtained from the olive oil production process and is the major by-product of the olive oil industry.

[0044] The coffee silverskin extract is enriched in hair-required nutrients, such as caffeine and phenolics. The fractions comprising non-interested compounds are disregarded.

[0045] The one or more cosmetically acceptable green excipients are selected from the group consisting of surfactants - cleansing agents; opacifier and pearling agents; flexible film-forming, pregelatinized, moisturizer and anti-static agents; soap-free cleansing agents; and preservatives.

[0046] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the surfactants - cleansing agents are selected from the group consisting of olefin sulfonates, alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), betaine-based surfactants and combinations thereof. In more preferred embodiments, the surfactants - cleansing agents are Sodium C14-16Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco / Isostearamide.

[0047] In preferred embodiments of the present invention the opacifier and pearling agent are selected from the group consisting of mineral based opacifiers, plant based opacifiers, mixtures of esters and combinations thereof. In more preferred embodiments, the opacifier and pearling agent is Glycol Distearate.

[0048] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the flexible film-forming, pregelatinized, moisturizer and anti-static agents are selected from the group consisting of biopolymers, green starches, polymeric quaternary ammonium salts and combinations thereof. In more preferred embodiments, the flexible film-forming, pregelatinized, moisturizer and anti-static agents is selected from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-10 and Tapioca Starch.

[0049] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the soap-free cleansing agents are selected from the group consisting of plant-based agents derived from plant oils, plant sugars and fatty alcohols. In more preferred embodiments, the soap-free cleansing agent is Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.

[0050] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the preservatives are selected from the group consisting of formaldehyde releasing agents. In more preferred embodiments, the preservatives is Diazolidinyl Urea combined with Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

[0051] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for obtaining the semisolid composition comprising the steps of:

[0052] a. preparing the enriched extract of coffee silverskin;

[0053] b. obtaining the lipid nanocarriers loaded with the enriched extract of coffee silverskin; and

[0054] c. incorporating the loaded lipid nanocarriers into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.

[0055] In step (a), the enriched extract of coffee silverskin is prepared by extraction of the coffee silverskin with any green extraction technique, filtered and then subjected to resin column to remove residues. Green extraction techniques are selected from the group consisting of solvent extraction, supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), subcritical water extraction (SWE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pulsed electric field extraction (PEF), enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE), hydrodistillation, sonication and combinations thereof.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the green extraction technique is solvent extraction, performed with different and subsequent non-toxic alcohol:water mixtures (100:0, 50:50, 50:70, and 0:100). The extraction solvent is preferably ethanol, ethanol:water mixtures or water, even though others environmentally friendly and biodegradable solvents and bio-based solvents can be used.

[0057] The extracts obtained are filtered and combined, and the alcohol is then recovered. The extract in aqueous media is subjected to resin column at a flow rate of 5 mL / min for adsorption of bioactive compounds (caffeine and phenolics) in resin porous.

[0058] The column is washed with distilled water to remove residues (e.g. sugar, chlorophyll, etc.) and then eluted with solvent for the desorption of caffeine and phenolics. The solvent is non-toxic alcohol ≥ 99.8 %, the alcohol being preferably ethanol. The solvent is recovered and the enriched fractions are frozen at −80 °C, and lyophilized.

[0059] The olive pomace is immediately collected after olive oil extraction and frozen at -80 °C.

[0060] In step (b), the enriched extract of coffee silverskin are formulated into lipid nanocarriers produced either by high shear homogenization or by ultrasound techniques, using cosmetically accepted lipids selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylcholine, fatty acids, mono-, di-, and triglycerides, waxes, and combinations thereof.

[0061] The loaded lipid nanocarriers are then dispersed into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients. More specifically, a freshly prepared base composed of olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients is prepared and, at last, the loaded lipid nanocarriers are then dispersed into.

[0062] It is expected no significant changes among different size batches and laboratorial samples with respect to particle size, polydispersity, zeta potential, crystallinity, spreadability, texture, extrudability, firmness, foaming property and stability, viscosity, preservative efficacy and pH. Feasibility of this scalling-up process is high, with a high production yield.

[0063] In a third aspect, the present invention discloses the use of the semisolid composition for scalp and hair as a hair care product, the hair care product being selected from the group consisting of shampoo, serum, mask and conditioner.Examples

[0064] After each step, the physicochemical characterization has been performed. For the extract of coffee silverskin, the phenolic and caffeine content was enhanced considerably and all non-interested compounds were removed. For the olive pomace, the physicochemical characterization showed high content of hair-required nutrient observed.

[0065] Regular monitoring of the particle size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and storage stabilities was performed to ensure that lipid nanocarriers have been obtained and the extract has been loaded.

[0066] The semisolid composition was also characterized to ensure the quality of the hair care product. As expected, the semisolid composition showed good firmness, cohesiveness, and spreadability properties, texture, extrudability, foaming property and stability, viscosity, preservative efficacy and compatible pH. Thus, the semisolid composition has commercial quality requirements.

[0067] Texture analysis was done to determine the firmness and cohesiveness of the semi-solids. The probe selected was P / 0.5 ½” Dia Delrin Aoac which penetrated the sample with a load cell of 5 kg, a trigger force of 0.05 N, a penetration depth of 5 mm, a velocity of 3 mm.s–1and a contact area of 126.68 mm2. The results of the texture analysis are depicted inand.

[0068] Rheological analysis was done over a frequency range from 0 to 10 Hz. The storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G'') and the complex viscosity (η*) of the semi-solids were determined as a function of the frequency at constant stress amplitude of 5 Pa (linear viscoelastic region), showing rheological behaviour typical of formulations for topical use. The results of the rheological analysis are depicted inand.

[0069] More specifically,and Table 1 below depict the results of the texture analysis of the shampoo, showing firmness (positive force) and adhesiveness (negative force) within the acceptable range of a typical shampoo.

[0070] Force (g)Distance (mm)Area (g.sec)PositiveNegativePositiveNegativePositiveNegativeF-T 3:4667.884-1423.4175.000-7.5631508.946-354.627-376.468

[0071] and Table 2 below depict the results of the rheological analysis of the shampoo, showing the G’ higher than G’’ over the tested frequency range, indicating that elastic properties dominate viscous behavior, with a viscosity typical of a shampoo.

[0072] Frequency (Hz)Viscous Shear modulus (Pa)Elastic Shear modulus (Pa)Shear viscosity (Pa.s)Max98.176.1351.565Media10.40.55851.658Min1.1780.0831.879Average22.9061.2361.679

[0073] and Table 3 below depict the results of the texture analysis of the cream, showing firmness (positive force) and adhesiveness (negative force) within the acceptable range of a typical cream.

[0074] Force (g)Distance (mm)Area (g.sec)PositiveNegativePositiveNegativePositiveNegativeF-T 3:415.33-9.365.00-39.61656.28-22.1312.005

[0075] and Table 4 below depict the results of the rheological analysis of the cream, showing the G’’ higher than G’ over the tested frequency range, indicating that viscous properties dominate elastic behavior, with a viscosity typical of a cream.

[0076] Frequency (Hz)Viscous Shear modulus (Pa)Elastic Shear modulus (Pa)Shear viscosity (Pa.s)max80.85612.89.84media43.14536.585.66Min29.8492784.5Average47.28542.09185.98

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[0080] Peixoto, J.A.B., et al., Valorizing coffee silverskin based on its phytochemicals and antidiabetic potential: From lab to a pilot scale. Foods, 2022, 11, 1671.

[0081] Costa, A.S., et al., Optimization of antioxidants extraction from coffee silverskin, a roasting by-product, having in view a sustainable process. Ind. Crops Prod. 2014. 53, 350.

[0082] Nunes, M.A., et al., Chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of a new olive pomace functional ingredient. Pharmaceuticals, 2021, 14, 913.

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Claims

A semisolid composition for scalp and haircharacterized bycomprising:0.1 to 5 % of weight of enriched extract of coffee silverskin;- 0.1 to 20 % of weight of fresh olive pomace; and- one or more cosmetically acceptable green excipients;wherein the extract of coffee silverskin is enriched in caffeine and phenolics;wherein the enriched extract of coffee silverskin is loaded into lipid nanocarriers and then dispersed into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 1,characterized bythe fact that the one or more cosmetically acceptable green excipients are selected from the group consisting of surfactants - cleansing agents; opacifier and pearling agents; flexible film-forming, pregelatinized, moisturizer and anti-static agents; soap-free cleansing agents and preservatives.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 2,characterized bythe fact that the surfactants - cleansing agent are selected from the group consisting of olefin sulfonates, alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), betaine-based surfactants and combinations thereof.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 2,characterized bythe fact that the opacifier and pearling agent is selected from the group consisting of mineral based opacifiers, plant based opacifiers, mixtures of esters and combinations thereof.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 2,characterized bythe fact that the flexible film-forming, pregelatinized, moisturizer and anti-static agents are selected from the group consisting of biopolymers, green starches, polymeric quaternary ammonium salts and combinations thereof.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 2,characterized bythe fact that the soap-free cleansing agent is selected from the group consisting of plant-based agents derived from plant oils, plant sugars and fatty alcohols.The semisolid composition for scalp and hair, according to claim 2,characterized bythe fact that the preservatives are selected from the group consisting of formaldehyde releasing agents.Method for obtaining the semisolid composition as disclosed in claims 1 to 7,characterized bycomprising the steps of:a. preparing the enriched extract of coffee silverskin;b. obtaining the lipid nanocarriers loaded with the enriched extract of coffee silverskin; andc. incorporating the loaded lipid nanocarriers into a base that contains fresh olive pomace and cosmetically acceptable green excipients.Method, according to claim 8,characterized bythe fact that in step (b) the coffee silverskin is extracted by a green extraction technique, filtered and then subjected to resin column to remove residues to obtain the enriched extract of coffee silverskin.Method, according to claim 9,characterized bythe fact that the green extraction technique is solvent extraction, performed with different and subsequent non-toxic alcohol:water mixtures varying from 100:0 to 0:100.Method, according to claim 8,characterized bythe fact that in step (c), the enriched extract of coffee silverskin is formulated into lipid nanocarriers by high shear homogenization or by ultrasound, using cosmetically accepted lipids selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylcholine, fatty acids, mono-, di-, and triglycerides, waxes and combinations thereof.Use of the semisolid composition for scalp and hair as defined in any of claims 1 to 7,characterized bybeing as a hair care product, the hair care product being selected from the group consisting of shampoo, serum, mask and conditioner.

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