Aqueous sorbet composition comprising an (ALKYL)acrylic acid polymer, a polysaccharide and a colorant, and cosmetic process employing it
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2024795217
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-10-30
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-09
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to provide a pleasant, refreshing texture that transforms from a gel/cream to a liquid upon application, while ensuring excellent coverage and no stickiness or drying out of keratin materials like skin.
A cosmetic composition comprising (alkyl)acrylic acid polymer, polysaccharide, colorant, and water, which transforms into a gel with a refreshing sensation similar to sorbet, providing excellent coverage and no stickiness or drying upon application.
The composition offers excellent rheology and a pleasant touch, transforming into a refreshing gel that provides excellent coverage without stickiness or drying, while maintaining stability over time even at high temperatures.
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Abstract
Description
DescriptionAqueous sorbet composition comprising an (alkyl)acrylic acid polymer, a polysaccharide and a colorant, and cosmetic process employing it
[0001] The present invention relates to a preferably cosmetic composition comprising i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylic acid and salts thereof, ii) at least one polysaccharide, iii) at least one colorant, and iv) water, to the use of said composition in cosmetics, and to a process for treating keratin materials by applications of said composition to said materials.Technical field
[0002] There is great interest in providing texture to keratin materials, especially human keratin materials such as the skin, for cosmetic products. A further aim is to provide compositions which are pleasant in texture, more particularly of gel / cream or even "sorbet" type, with particular sensations, especially refreshing sensations, as soon as the compositions are applied.
[0003] In addition to the provision of compositions with a pleasant texture of the gel / cream or even "sorbet" type, an aim is that, after application to the keratin materials, there should be excellent coverage and little or no color after application to said materials.
[0004] The idea is to find a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, which, after massage, allows the liquid to flow out, by transformation of a physical property, such as of a gel / cream into a liquid. Ideally, the transformation would take place during the application of said composition. It would then be advantageous if, once the application had been carried out on said materials, there was no need to lament a sensation of stickiness or drying-out of said materials thus treated.
[0005] These technical problems have been solved by the composition according to the invention.
[0006] Hence the subject of the invention is a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising: i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylic acid and salts thereof, comprising a repeating unit of formula (I):[Chem. 1]-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO M*)]- in which formula (I):* R1and R2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R1and R2represent a hydrogen atom,* M+represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, more preferably M+represents an alkali metal such as sodium;* y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2;* z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z; ii) at least one linear or branched polysaccharide, preferably branched, more particularly comprising the combination of monosaccharides chosen from glucose, mannose and glucuronic acid, combined or not with a (keto)(Ci-Ce)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid or such as xanthan gum; iii) at least one colorant, more particularly a dye and / or pigment, absorbing in the visible spectrum and / or at least one pigment, preferably black such as carbon black, Yellow 5, Red 33, Blue 1 ; and iv) water.
[0007] Also a subject of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition, in particular in caring for keratin materials, more particularly human keratin materials such as the skin.
[0008] Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, especially human keratin materials such as the skin, by applying the composition according to the invention to said materials.
[0009] The composition of the invention has excellent rheology and is very pleasant to the touch. Once applied to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the skin, the composition transforms into a gel with an appearance similar to a "sorbet" with a refreshing sensation. In addition, the keratin materials, once treated with the composition of the invention, are not sticky and the color disappears on application or immediately after being applied to said keratin materials, and especially the skin.
[0010] Moreover, the composition of the invention remains stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C after several weeks, and even after one month or even two months.
[0011] For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
[0012] The term "polymer(s)" is understood to mean one or more homopolymers (i.e., derived from the polymerization of identical synthons), one or more copolymers (i.e., derived from the polymerization of different synthons), or mixtures thereof, i.e., homopolymers and copolymers.
[0013] the term “cosmetic active agent’ means the radical of an organic or organosilicon compound which can be integrated into a cosmetic composition to give an effect on keratin materials, whether this effect is immediate or provided by repeated applications. As examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of chromophores which are colored or not, fluorescent or not, such as those derived from optical brighteners, or chromophores derivedfrom UVA and / or UVB filters, anti-aging active agents or active agents intended to provide a benefit to the skin, such as active agents having an action on the barrier function, anti-acne active agents, deodorant active agents other than mineral particles, antiperspirant active agents other than mineral particles, desquamating active agents, antioxidant active agents, moisturizing active agents, sebum-regulating active agents, active agents intended to limit the shine of the skin, active agents intended to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal active agents, antidandruff active agents, and perfumes.
[0014] The term “(hetero)aryk means aryl or heteroaryl groups.
[0015] The term “(hetero)cycloalkyl" means cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups.
[0016] The “aryk or “heteroaryk radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical may be substituted with at least one substituent borne by a carbon atom, chosen from:- a Ci-Ce, preferably C1-C4, alkyl radical;- a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;- a hydroxyl group;- a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy radical;- an amino radical;- an amino radical substituted by one or two identical or different Ci-Ce, preferably C1-C4, alkyl radicals;- an acylamino radical (-NR-COR1) in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom,- a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R' is a C1-C4 alkyl radical; a carbamoyl radical ((R)2N- CO-) in which the radicals R, which are identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, or a Ci- 04 alkyl radical;- an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'SO2-NR-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a phenyl radical;- an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-SO2-) in which the radicals R, which are identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;- a carboxylic radical in acid form or salified (preferably with an alkali metal or a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium);- a cyano group (ON);- a polyhalo(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3);
[0017] The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom and chosen from the following groups:- hydroxyl,- C1-C4 alkoxy, C2-C4 (poly)hydroxyalkoxy,- alkylcarbonylamino ((RCO-NR1-) in which the radical R' is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the radical R is a C1-C2 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;- alkylcarbonyloxy ((RCO-O-) in which the radical R is a C1-C4 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;- alkoxycarbonyl ((RO-CO-) in which the radical R is a C1-C4 alkyl radical, amino substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;- a cyclic or heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl or heteroaryl radical, may also be substituted with one or more oxo groups;- a hydrocarbon-based chain is unsaturated when it includes one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0018] an “aryk radical represents a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl or tetrahydronaphthyl;
[0019] a “heteroaryl" radical represents a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, 5- to 22-membered group, comprising from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl and xanthylyl;
[0020] a “cyclic" or “cycloalkyl" radical is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic, non- aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, which may include one or more unsaturations; the cycloalkyl is preferably a cyclohexyl group;
[0021] a “heterocyclic" or “heterocycloalkyl" radical is a monocyclic or fused or non-fused polycyclic 3- to 9-membered non-aromatic cyclic radical, including from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms; preferably, the heterocycloalkyl is chosen from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidyl, morpholinyl and dithiolane;
[0022] an “alkyl” radical is a linear or branched, in particular Ci-Ce and preferably C1-C4 saturated hydrocarbon-based radical;
[0023] an “alkenyl" radical is a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;
[0024] an “alkynyk radical is a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated triple bonds;
[0025] an “alkoxy” radical is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched Ci-Ce and preferentially C1-C4 hydrocarbon-based radical;
[0026] a “sugar1’ radical is a monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical, and the O-protected sugar derivatives thereof such as sugar esters of (Ci-Cejalkylcarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, sugars containing amine group(s) and (Ci-C4)alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. Sugar radicals that may be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;
[0027] the term “monosaccharide" refers to a mono-oside sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)Xwith x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x = 6; they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates;
[0028] the term " polysaccharide " refers to a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of two or more monosaccharides linked together by O-saccharide bonds, said polymers consisting of monosaccharide units (also called monosaccharides) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5, preferably 6, carbon atoms; in particular, the monosaccharide units are linked together at 1 ,4 or 1 ,6 in a (alpha) or p (beta) anomer, each monosaccharide unit being able to be of L or D configuration, and also its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; they are more particularly polymers formed from a certain number of monosaccharides having the general formula: - [Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH20)X]W, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive and preferably x = 6, and y is an integer which represents x - 1 , and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly between 3 and 3000 inclusive, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferentially between 10 and 2300, particularly between 15 and 1000 inclusive, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferentially between 25 and 200;
[0029] the term “sugar bearing amine group(s)” means that the sugar radical is substituted with one or more amino groups NR1R2, i.e. at least one of the hydroxyl groups of at least one saccharide unit of the sugar radical is replaced with a group NR1R2, with R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, vii) -C(Y)-(Y’)f-R’i with Y and Y’, which may be identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or N(R’2), preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1 , preferably 0; and R’1 and R’2 representing i) to vi) of R1 and R2 defined previously, and in particular R’1 denoting a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group such as methyl. Preferably, R1 and / or R2 represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl groupsuch as acetyl, and more preferentially Ri represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl;
[0030] the term “organic or mineral acid salt’ more particularly means organic or mineral acid salts in particular chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCI, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; vii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; viii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; ix) triflic acid CF3SO3H and x) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; xi) organic carboxylic acids R°-C(O)-OH (I’z), in which formula (I’z) R° represents a (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl, (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, or (Ci-Cio)alkyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted preferably with one or more hydroxyl groups or amino or carboxyl radicals, R° preferably denoting a (C1- Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted with 1 , 2 or 3 hydroxyl or carboxyl groups; more preferentially, the monocarboxylic acids of formula (I’z) are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from acetic acid and lactic acid; and the polycarboxylic acids are chosen from tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; and xii) amino acids including more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups, such as y-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid or glutamic acid, in particular y- carboxyglutamic acid;
[0031] an “anionic counterion" is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including Ci-Ce alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(0)2O such as methyl sulfonate or mesylate and ethyl sulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(0)2O such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-O-S(O)O_such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-O-S(O)O_such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alk- O-S(O)2O_such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxy sulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar-O-S(O)2O_, xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate;
[0032] "solvates " represent hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched Ci- 04 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol;
[0033] the term “chromophore" means a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound that is capable of absorbing in the UV and / or visible radiation range at a wavelength Xabs of between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is colored, i.e. it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e. preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophores appear colored to the eye, particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann’s Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag “Dyes, General Survey”, § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color);
[0034] the term "UV-A filter" is understood to mean a chromophore derived from a compound which filters out (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of between 320 and 400 nm. A distinction can be made between short UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength of between 320 and 340 nm) and long UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength of between 340 and 400 nm);
[0035] the term "UV-B filter " is understood to mean a chromophore derived from a compound which filters out (or absorbs) UV-B ultraviolet rays at a wavelength of between 280 and 320 nm;
[0036] in addition, unless otherwise specified, the endpoints delimiting the extent of a range of values are included in that range of values;
[0037] for the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" is understood to mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, and preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.1 %); in addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, in halogenated solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol, or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene;
[0038] the term "salts of organic or inorganic bases" is understood to mean the salts of bases or alkaline agents as defined below, such as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines;
[0039] the term "cationic counterion" is understood to mean a cation or a cationic group derived from an organic or inorganic base salt counterbalancing the anionic charge of the ingredients of formula (I1) or (II1); more particularly, the cationic counterion is chosen from i) alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, preferably Na+, ii) alkaline earth metals such as calcium; iii) ammonium R4I with R, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;
[0040] a hydrocarbon-based chain is unsaturated when it includes one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds;
[0041] an “alkyl radicaf’ is a saturated, linear or branched, C1-C20, preferably Ci-Ce, more preferentially C1-C4, hydrocarbon-based radical, such as methyl or ethyl;
[0042] an "alkylene radical" is a saturated divalent hydrocarbon radical as defined above which may contain from 1 to 4 -C=C- double bonds, conjugated or not; particularly the alkenylene group contains 1 or 2 unsaturation(s);
[0043] the expression “optionally substituted’ assigned to the alkyl radical implies that said alkyl radical can be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the radicals i) hydroxyl, ii) C1-C4 alkoxy, iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl radicals;
[0044] an “alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy radical for which the alkyl radical is a linear or branched C1-C16 and preferentially Ci-Cs hydrocarbon radical;
[0045] the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more"', and
[0046] the expression "inclusive(ly)" for a range of concentrations means that the range endpoints form part of the interval defined. The expression “transparent’ means the transparency of the said composition by visual evaluation method or spectrophotometric method :
[0047] Visual Method:
[0048] Composition transparency can be characterized using a standard commercial test tube made of clear, untinted borosilicate, soda-lime, or neutral glass, such as Pyrex® or Duran® glass. The test tube is 16 cm high and 1.6 cm in diameter and filled to 14 cm (the bottom of the meniscus of the composition in the tube is at 14 cm from the bottom of the tube). A published international patent application (A4 format) is placed 1 cm behind the tube. The observer's eyes are positioned at a distance (reading focal length relative to the test tube) of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, perpendicular to the middle of the composition in the tube (approximately 7 cm from the bottom of the tube). The observer then assesses whether they can distinctly read the published international patent application through the composition in the tube, specifically the first page. It is understood that the tester has normal vision, or uses corrective eyewear (glasses, contact lenses, or other optical devices) as needed for reading. For example, one can use application WO 2018 / 104428 and evaluate the clarity, i.e. , the ability to read all 31 lines on page 13, or preferably, perform the reading test on the first page.
[0049] Spectrophotometric Method:
[0050] Composition transparency can be characterized by measuring its transmittance. For the purposes of this invention, transmittance measurements are performed at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm) using a CARY Type 100 scan UV-Visible spectrophotometer.
[0051] The expression “Opaque" or “Translucent’ means a material not transparent. An opaque material does not allow light to pass through it. Light is either reflected or absorbed by the material. You cannot see through an opaque object.
[0052] A Translucent: material means a material which allows some light to pass through it, but it diffuses the light, so you cannot see clear images through it. The light is scattered as it passes through. Examples include frosted glass, some plastics, and thin paper. / ) the polymer(s) derived from (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylic acid
[0053] The composition of the invention comprises i) one or more polymers derived from (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylic acid and salts thereof, as defined above.
[0054] Preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from homopolymers.
[0055] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of i) is (are) chosen from copolymers.
[0056] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) comprise a repetition of units of formula (I) and of unit(s) of formula (II):-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO-M+)]- (I) and -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOH)]- (II) in which formula (I) and (II) R1and R2, and M+, are as defined above.
[0057] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention consist(s) of a repetition of unit of formula (I) and of formula (II).
[0058] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a repetition of unit of formula (I) and of formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (I) is greater than or equal to the molar number of units of formula (II); preferably, the molar number of units of formula (I) is greater than the molar number of units of formula (II).
[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) i) of the invention comprise (preferably consist of) a repetition of unit of formula (I) without unit (II).
[0060] According to another particular embodiment, the polymer(s) of the invention i) comprise (preferably consist of) a repetition of unit of formula (I) and of formula (II) in which the molar number of units of formula (II) is greater than the molar number of units of formula (I).
[0061] According to one preferred embodiment, the polymer(s) of the invention i) comprise (preferably consist of) units of formula (I) and of formula (II) in which :-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO-M+)]y- (I) and -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOH)]Z- (II) in which formula (I) and (II) :- R1and R2, and M+, are as defined in claim 1 ; preferably R1and R2represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, M+represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferably M+represents an alkali metal such as sodium; more preferably R1represents a hydrogen atom, R2represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, even more preferably R2represents a hydrogen atom; and M+preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium;- y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; and- z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z;preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
[0062] The neutralized polymer(s) i) can be neutralized totally or partially. Preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
[0063] According to a particular embodiment, in the polymer or polymers of the invention, the molar ratio of the neutralized parts (units of formula (I)) to the non-neutralized parts (units of formula (II)) is at least 10%, particularly at least 20%, more particularly at least 30%, even more particularly at least 40%, or even at least 50% and / or particularly at most 90%, more particularly at most 80%, even more particularly at most 70%, better still at most 60%.
[0064] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymers i) as defined above comprising (preferably consisting of) a repetition of unit of formula (I) and of unit (II) in which R1and R2represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom.
[0065] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polymers i) as defined above in which M+represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium; preferably M+represents an alkali metal such as sodium.
[0066] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) particularly chosen from "superabsorbents", i.e., the polymer(s) is (are) capable of absorbing at least 20 times its (their) weight of water (i.e., at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of superabsorbent polymer - the water absorbence characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm) with distilled water), more particularly at least 50 times its (their) weight of water, more particularly capable of absorbing at least 80 times its (their) weight of water; preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is (are) capable of absorbing at least 100 times its (their) weight of water.
[0067] The water absorption capacity value of the polymer(s) can be determined, for example, by dispersing 5 grams (g) of polymer(s) in 150 g of water and waiting for 5 minutes (min.) to 30 min., such as 20 min., filtering the solution through a 150 mm filter in 20 min., and weighing the unabsorbed water.
[0068] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer(s) i) as defined above can have a water absorption capacity of 10 g or more, preferably of 20 g or more, and more preferably of 50 g or more, and / or of 2000 g or less, preferably 1500 g or less, and more preferably 1000 g or less, relative to 1 g of the polymer at 25 °C and 1 atm.
[0069] When discussing water absorption capacity, it is understood that the polymer(s), after absorbing distilled water, maintain their structure, meaning that even after absorbing the maximum amount of water, the saturated polymer(s) retain a defined, non-liquid shape. This can be tested, for example, by placing 10g of the superabsorbent polymer(s) to be evaluatedin a becher (beaker) and adding 200g of distilled water. After mixing, or even sonication, a "spatula-full" of the mixture is taken from the becher. The spatula is then rotated to 90° above the beaker and held still without moving. The time it takes for the mixture to remain on the spatula without dripping or falling back into the beaker is measured. If, after at least 5 seconds, better at least 10 seconds, even better at least 20 seconds, and preferably at least 30 seconds, nothing falls from the spatula into the becher, then the absorption capacity is considered to be reached. After absorbing the maximum amount of water, the polymer(s) preferably exhibit an opaque or translucent appearance. If adding 1 or 2g of additional distilled water results in a more liquefied mixture, and when the previous experiment is repeated with the spatula rotated to 90° and held still above the becher without moving, and at least one drop of the mixture falls within 5 seconds, better within 10 seconds, even better within 20 seconds, and preferably within 30 seconds, then the maximum water absorption capacity is considered to be reached, which in this case is 20 times its weight. The upper limit is thus found and will be 20 times its weight in water.
[0070] The polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is (are) particularly derived from the polymerization of: a) two or more monomers, identical (in which case the polymers will be homopolymers) or different (in which case they will be copolymers), chosen from:- (alkyl)acrylic acids of the following formula (II') HC(R1)=C(R2)-C(O)OH,- salts of the following formula (I') HC(R1)=C(R2)-C(O)O M+(I') and- mixtures of monomers (I') and (II'); and also their optical isomers and / or geometric isomers: in which formulae (I') and (II') R1, R2and M+are as defined above; a) in the presence of a polymerization initiator (UV initiator) to lead to the polymers of formula (I) as defined above.
[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the invention i) as defined above is (are) derived from the polymerization of monomers of formula (II'), said polymer(s) then being neutralized by the use of at least one alkaline agent, preferably the alkaline agent is inorganic, in particular chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonate(s), preferably chosen from sodium (bi)carbonate and sodium hydroxide, more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0072] Preferably, R1represents a hydrogen atom, R2represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci- C4)alkyl group such as methyl, more preferably R2represents a hydrogen atom; and M+preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium.
[0073] In addition, the polymer(s) i) as defined above and the monomers (I1) and / or (II1) are capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s), said agent(s)can be applied, for example by vaporization (spraying) to the surface of said polymer(s), and said polymer(s) is (are) more particularly in the form of particles.
[0074] The polymer(s) i) as defined above may be in the form of particles.
[0075] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) preferably in the form of particles and preferably spherical. The average size of the primary particles as D50 (particularly of the nonhydrated particles) of the polymer(s) i) as defined above is not particularly limited, is generally 0.1 pm or more, preferably 0.5 pm or more, and more preferably 1 pm or more, and / or is 200 pm or less, preferably 100 pm or less, more preferably 50 pm or less.
[0076] The term "D50" here designates the size of the particles for which 50% of the volume of the particles, based on the total volume of the particles, have a particle size less than or equal to D50.
[0077] The D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, for example, using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.
[0078] The polymer(s) i) as defined can be soluble in water, it being possible for the polymer(s) i) to be included in the aqueous phase, including water, of the composition according to the present invention.
[0079] According to one embodiment of the invention, once hydrated, said particles swell, forming flexible particles having an average diameter inclusively of between 10 pm and 300 pm, more particularly between 20 pm and 200 pm, even more particularly between 40 pm and 150 pm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particles of the polymer(s) i) are unswollen and have an average particle size (average diameter) of between 2 pm and 10 pm, particularly between 4 pm and 50 pm, more particularly between 5pm and 30 pm, better still between 10 pm and 20 pm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
[0081] The polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) preferably crosslinked, and more preferably in the form of particles.
[0082] In a preferred embodiment, the polymer(s) i) as defined above is (are) chosen from crosslinked homopolymers.
[0083] Among the preferred polymers i) of the invention, mention may be made of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium polyacrylates, preferably alkali metal and alkaline earth metal polyacrylates, more preferably alkali metal polyacrylates such as sodium acrylates, for example those sold under the name AQLIPEC, especially AQLIPEC MG N40R, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called sodium carbomer (or carbopol); more particularly the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from carbomers, preferably carbomer S or sodium carbomer.
[0084] The amount of polymer(s) i) as defined above in the composition is particularly at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] The amount of polymer(s) i) as defined above in the composition is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] In particular, the amount of polymer(s) i) as defined above in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 0.9% to 3% by weight, better still ranges from 1% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) the polysaccharide(s)
[0087] The composition of the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides ii). When there are two or more polysaccharides, they are structurally different from each other.
[0088] The polysaccharide(s) ii) of the invention is (are) of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin, more particularly derived from microorganisms or plants.
[0089] The polysaccharide(s) ii) may be present in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention.
[0090] The polysaccharide(s) ii) can function as hydrophilic thickener(s) capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention.
[0091] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.
[0092] The term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which is introduced at 1 % by weight into an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at a neutral pH (i.e., pH = 7) makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, particularly of at least 500 cps, more particularly at least 1000 cps, preferably at least 2000 cps, more preferably at least 3000 cps, better still at least 4000 cps, even better still at least 5000 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like). Preferably, the viscosity is between 5000 cps and 7000 cps, more preferably between 5500 cps and 6500, better still between 5800 cps and 6100 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
[0093] The polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymer(s), preferably nonionic polymer(s).
[0094] The "polysaccharide(s)" is (are) as defined above; in addition, the monosaccharide units - [Cx( H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)X]W- are optionally modified by substitution, by oxidation, by dehydration and / or by reduction. Preferably, the monosaccharide units are not modified.
[0095] As monosaccharide units of the polysaccharide(s) that are useful in the invention, mention may preferably be made of glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0096] Polysaccharides that may notably be mentioned include those derived from native gums such as those derived from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms or plants, such as:- gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);- karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum;- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- scleroglucan gum (polymer of glucose).
[0097] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) are derived from native gums chosen from: a) tree or shrub exudates, including gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum and gum tragacanth; b) gums derived from algae, including agar, alginates, carrageenans and furcellerans; c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tamarind gum and konjac gum; d) microbial gums, including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum; e) plant extracts, including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and f) chitin and chitosan derivatives;more preferably, the polysaccharide or polysaccharides b) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehydroxanthan gums and carrageenan gums.
[0098] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) chosen from fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid trisaccharides; particularly composed of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid residues, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is (are) Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of a-L-fucose(1^3)a-D-galactose(1^3)-aD- galacturonic acid.
[0099] In particular, the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from a) polysaccharides consisting of combinations of monosaccharides chosen from glucose, mannose and glucuronic acid, combined or not with a (keto)(Ci-Ce)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid, more preferably, the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from xanthan gums, b) the trisaccharides of fucose-galactose-galacturonic acid; particularly composed of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid residues, more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is (are) Biosaccharide Gum-1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of a-L-fucose(1^3)a-D-galactose(1^3)-aD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b), preferably, the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of a-L-fucose(1^3)a- D-galactose(1^3)-aD-galacturonic acid (Biosaccharide Gum-1).
[0100] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from: celluloses (glucose polymers); starches (glucose polymer); inulins; pectins; chitins and chitosans.
[0101] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) nonionic.
[0102] The polysaccharide(s) of the invention is (are) preferably of natural origin. They may be derived from different sources: from plants, animals, microbes, fungi or algae (see, for example, Gerld O. Aspinall I, The Polysaccharides, Vol. 2, by Academic Press, Inc. ISBN 0- 12-065602-7, pages 1-9 (1983) and Journal of Polymers and the Environment, vol. 29, pages 2359-2371 (2021)). According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from gums of microbial origin.
[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "gums of microbial origin" is understood to mean substances synthesized in particular by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms or by fungi.
[0104] The microbial gum(s) may be chosen from scleroglucan gums, pullulan gums, curdlan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.
[0105] These include especially scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, curdlan gums produced by Faecalis myxogenes alcaligenes, grifolan gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinusedodes, schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commine, spirulinan gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla, and krestin gums produced by Coriates versicolor.
[0106] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from plants denotes a polysaccharide derived from plants or from algae.
[0107] As nonionic polysaccharide(s) ii) according to the invention, mention may also be made of those chosen from glucans, starches such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, from maize or rice, from vegetables such as blond peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, or hydroxyalkyl starch such as hydroxypropyl starch, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabics, gum tragacanth, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Guar gums, celluloses, pullulans, xanthans and carrageenans, chitosans and their derivatives will preferably be used, preferably pullulans, xanthans, carrageenans, chitosans and more preferably xanthans and xanthan gums.
[0109] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or unmodified.
[0110] The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Solvay.
[0111] The modified nonionic guar gums are notably modified with C1-C24 and notably C1- C6hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0112] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples that may be mentioned include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0113] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0114] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0115] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP105 by the company Solvay or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aquaion.
[0116] Use is made in particular, among the celluloses, of hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by Aquaion and Cellosize Polymer PCG- 10 by Amerchol.
[0117] Mention may also be made of hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives including a long aliphatic chain, for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a notably C16-C22 aliphatic chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Solvay.* nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses modified with a notably C16-C24 aliphatic chain, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by the company Ashland;* nonionic nonoxynyl(hydroxy)ethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;* nonionic alkoxycelluloses modified with a notably C14-C26 aliphatic chain, such as the products Bermocoll EHM 100, 300, 500 sold by the company Nouryon;* poly(hydroxy)alkoxy celluloses modified notably with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company Amerchol.
[0118] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from plants; mention may be made in particular of: a) extracts of algae, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. By way of example of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; exemplary alginates that may be mentioned are alkali metal or alkaline earth metal alginates, in particular sodium alginate, in particular that sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; b) gums such as guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; by way of example, mention may be made of the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by Rhodia; mannan and konjac gum® (1% gluconomannan) sold by GfN; c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from legumes such as blond peas, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; by way of example, mention may be made in particular of Remy DR I® rice starch sold by the company Remy; B® corn starch from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2- chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;d) dextrins such as the dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch; e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses; and alkylhydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention may be made in particular of methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. By way of example, mention may be made of stearyl and cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose. As examples of cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mention may be made of Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aquaion; and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from alga extracts, cellulose gums and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] More preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from agars, locust bean gum, konjac mannan gum, (C -C2o)alkyl, in particular cetyl or stearyl, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and tapioca starches.
[0121] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from alga extracts and in particular alginates, carrageenans, agars and mixtures thereof. Alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, will preferably be used.
[0122] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from gums, such as guar gums, gum arabics, mannan gums and konjac gums, locust bean gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from modified or unmodified starches, more particularly chosen from wheat starches, corn starches, rice starches, potato starches, tapioca starches, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] According to another embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from dextrins, such as corn dextrins.
[0125] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from cellulose derivatives. Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may be made in particular of hydroxy(Ci-C3)alkyl celluloses, in particular modified with at least one hydrophobic chain, more particularly comprising one or more hydrophobic groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0126] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) used may be Cs-Cao and preferably C10-C22 alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be C10-C22 and preferably C16-C20 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains (preferably alkyl groups), such as cetyl (Cie), stearyl (Cis) and behenyl (C20) groups. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention may be cetyl groups. These cellulosic derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) according to the present invention can have a viscosity preferably of between 100 and 100 000 m.Pa.s and preferably between 200 and 20 000 m.Pa.s, measured at 25°C in a solution containing 1% by weight of a polymer inwater, this viscosity being determined conventionally using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 6 rpm with a No. 3 spindle. Among the cellulosic derivatives with hydrophobic substituent(s) which can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may preferably be made of the cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 CS (INCI name: Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Aqualon / Hercules.
[0127] In one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) derived from plants may be chosen from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.
[0128] Preferably, the nonionic polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) chosen from scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums, guar gums, xanthan gums, celluloses and derivatives thereof such as hydroxyethylcelluloses, and also mixtures thereof, and more preferably is (are) chosen from xanthan gums and scleroglucan (or sclerotium) gums and mixtures thereof, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) ii) of the invention is (are) linear or branched, preferably branched, more particularly comprising the combination of monosaccharides chosen from glucose, mannose and glucuronic acid, combined or not with a (keto)(Ci-C6)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid; more preferably, the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from xanthan gums.
[0130] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more polysaccharides ii) chosen from a mixture of xanthan gum and Biosaccharide Gum-1.
[0131] The amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the present invention is particularly at least 0.01 % by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] On the other hand, the amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention is particularly 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] In particular, the amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] In particular, the mass ratio of the ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1 , more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3.
[0135] According to a particular embodiment, the mass ratio of the ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better still 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9.Hi) the colorant(s)
[0136] The term "colorant" is understood to denote all compounds which absorb in the visible spectrum, in particular so as to appear to the human eye of a color such as yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, brown or black. Colorless compounds, i.e., compounds whichappear to the eye in the solid state and in solution to be uncolored, transparent or white, are excluded.
[0137] Mention may be made, as visual color and absorption wavelength associated with said color, of the following colors: “yellow” = Amax greater than 400 nm up to 440 nm, limit included, “orange” = Amaxgreater than 440 nm up to 490 nm, limit included, “red” = Amaxgreater than 490 nm up to 520 nm, limit included, “crimson” = Amax greater than 520 nm up to 560 nm, limit included, “purple” = Amax greater than 560 nm up to 580 nm, limit included, “blue” = Amax greater than 580 nm up to 620 nm, limit included, “blue-green” = Amax greater than 620 nm up to 650 nm, limit included, and “green” = Amax greater than 650 nm up to 780 nm, limit included.
[0138] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one colorant chosen from pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non-fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments. These colorants may be combined with surfactants x), preferably nonionic surfactants, as defined below.Pigments
[0139] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises, as colorant(s) iii), one or more pigments.
[0140] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pigment" is understood to mean all compounds capable of imparting color to keratin materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
[0141] As pigments that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, notably those described in Kirk- Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
[0142] These pigments may be synthetic or natural.
[0143] These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form.
[0144] They may be coated or uncoated.
[0145] These pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] A pigment that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from mineral pigments.
[0147] The term “mineral pigment’ means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, and also of zinc, iron or chromium oxides.
[0148] They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example,under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
[0149] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
[0150] A pigment that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from organic pigments.
[0151] The term “organic pigment’ means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Mention may be made, among the organic pigments useful in the present invention, of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone dyes.
[0152] In particular, the colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmines, carbon blacks (or charcoal), aniline blacks, azo yellows, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blues, triarylmethane blues, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment Yellow 5 (C.1.11660 and CAS 4106-67-6,326.31), green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0153] Examples that may also be mentioned include pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Yellow 3 pigment (Cl 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Yellow 1 pigment (Cl 11680); Cosmenyl GR orange: Orange 43 pigment (Cl 71105); Cosmenyl R red: Red 4 pigment (Cl 12085); Cosmenyl FB carmine: Red 5 pigment (Cl 12490); Cosmenyl RL violet: Violet 23 pigment (Cl 51319); Cosmenyl A2R blue: Blue 15.1 pigment (Cl 74160); Cosmenyl GG green: Green 7 pigment (Cl 74260); Cosmenyl R black: Black 7 pigment (Cl 77266).
[0154] More preferably, the pigment or pigments of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet pigments, in particular blue 1 and blue 1 lake, azo pigments, in particular yellows and reds, more particularly D&C Red 33 and D&C Yellow 5, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, andeven more preferably from the red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red pigments, more particularly D&C Red 33 and D&C Yellow 5.
[0155] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including an inorganic core, at least one binder for attaching the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
[0156] The organic pigment may also be a lake.
[0157] The term “lake" refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0158] The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the dyes adsorbed on organic substrates, mention may be made of carminic acid.
[0159] Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green 5 (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 10 (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090), FDC Red 4, D & C Red 6, D & C Red 22, D & C Red 28, D & C Red 30, D & C Orange 4, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, D & C Yellow 11 , D & C Violet 2, Sudan red, carotenes (P-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), riboflavin, beet juice and caramel.
[0160] As examples of lakes, mention may be made in particular of the products known under the name D & C Red and Yellow, and preferably D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), and D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), and D & C Blue and preferably D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
[0161] The pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
[0162] The term “pigments with special effects" refers to pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from colored pigments, which afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0163] Several types of special-effect pigments exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
[0164] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm, and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0165] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition by means of a dispersant.
[0166] This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12- hydroxystearic acid in particular and of Cs to C20 fatty acid and of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof. As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant(s) are of amino silicone type other than the alkoxysilanes described previously and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, or organic pigments.
[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferentially organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.
[0168] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0169] Direct dyes
[0170] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the colorant(s) iii) is (are) chosen from one or more direct dyes.
[0171] The term “direct dye" means natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will spread superficially on the fiber. They may be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.
[0172] Among the direct dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0173] According to a particular embodiment, the colorant(s) is (are) chosen from direct dyes.
[0174] According to one variant, the direct dye(s) can be chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0175] The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as “acid” direct dyes owing to their affinity for alkaline substances.
[0176] The term "anionic direct dyes" is understood to mean any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one substituent CO2R' or SO3R' with R' denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.
[0177] The anionic direct dyes may be chosen from direct nitro acid dyes, azo acid dyes, azine acid dyes, triaryl methane acid dyes, indoamine acid dyes, anthraquinone acid dyes, indigoid dyes and natural acid dyes.
[0178] Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and particularly henna-based poultices or extracts.
[0179] According to one embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.
[0180] More particularly, the keratin material or materials is / are chosen from pigments, in particular organic pigments, such as nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluoran, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compoounds.
[0181] In particular, the colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmines, carbon blacks, aniline blacks, azo yellows, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and in particular Pigment Yellow 5 (C.l.11660 and CAS 4106-67-6,326.31), green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives.
[0182] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more pigments, preferably black such as carbon black (charcoal); yellow such as D&C Yellow 5; red such as D&C Red 33, and / or blue such as D&C Blue 1.
[0183] More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises at least one colorant iii), particulate or not, water-soluble or not, in a proportion of at least 0.00001 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and of the color intensity afforded by the dyestuffs underconsideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0185] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the colorant(s) iii), preferably the pigments, is (are) present in concentrations ranging from 0.00001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more particularly between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0186] The cosmetic medium:
[0187] The composition is preferably cosmetic, i.e., comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0188] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for application to keratin materials, also called a formula vehicle, which is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical medium generally constituted by water or by a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or by a mixture of organic solvents.
[0189] The composition of the invention further comprises water iv).
[0190] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises water in an amount of inclusively between 0.5% and 99.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 90%, even more preferably between 20% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of water in the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better still greater than or equal to 60%, better still greater than or equal to 70%, even better still greater than or equal to 80%.
[0192] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight of water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight of water, 30% and 90% by weight of water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight of water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight of water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. v) optionally one or more organic solvents
[0193] The term “organic solvent’ means an organic substance that is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises v) one or more organic solvents, in particular chosen from: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerol, caprylyl glycol (or 1 ,2-octanediol), butylene glycol; c) polyol ethers such as 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0195] According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises one or more polyols especially chosen from polyols especially having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol.
[0196] In a preferred embodiment, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one is used in combination with an effective amount of at least one organic solvent which may be chosen from ethanol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,2-hexylene glycol, PEG-4. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises 1 ,3- propanediol as organic solvent(s) v).
[0197] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is (are) chosen from a) and more preferably is (are) chosen from ethanol, glycerol and caprylyl glycol, and a mixture thereof.
[0198] Preferentially, the organic solvent(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
[0199] The composition of the invention preferably comprises vi) one or more polar protic organic solvents, liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups; preferably, the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol.
[0200] For the composition of the invention, preference will be given to water and as organic solvents to ethanol.
[0201] The organic solvent(s) v) of the invention is (are) preferably present in proportions preferably of inclusively between 0.1% and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably between 1% and 20% by weight approximately and even more particularly inclusively between 5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. vi) optionally one or more acids
[0202] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises vi) one or more organic or inorganic acids, preferably one or more organic acids.
[0203] In particular, the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from a) acids of type HX with X representing a halide such as chloride or bromide; b) inorganic or organic sulfonic acids in particular of formula R-S(O)2OH with R representing a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, where said hydrocarbon group may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH, thiol SH, amino NH2, sulfonic -SO3H, phosphonic -PO3H2, or carboxyl -CO2H groups, c) inorganic or organic phosphonic acids, in particular of formula R-PO3H2 with R as defined above, and d) carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R-CO2H with R as defined above, preferably chosen from carboxylic acids.
[0204] Preferably, the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids, in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably R' represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carboxyl groups or else R' represents an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carboxyl groups.
[0205] Preferably, the acid(s) vi) is (are) organic and chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids and especially from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
[0206] According to another particular embodiment, the acid(s) vi) is (are) organic and chosen from (C6-C )aryl(poly)carboxylic acids such as salicylic acid.
[0207] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of organic and inorganic, cyclic and acyclic, saturated and unsaturated acids which are different from one another. Aromatic and non-aromatic. In particular, the composition comprises at least one hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acid such as lactic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and (C6-C )aryl(poly)carboxylic acid such as salicylic acid. vii) optionally one or more alkaline agents
[0208] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises vii) one or more alkaline agents (also called bases). This agent may be chosen from mineral or organic or hybrid alkaline agents, or mixtures thereof.
[0209] The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
[0210] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkaline agent or agents are organic amines, i.e. , they contain at least one substituted or unsubstituted amino group.
[0211] The organic alkaline agent(s) are more preferentially chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably of less than 10 and even more advantageously of less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function which has the highest basicity.
[0212] As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids vi) as defined above, such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
[0213] The organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (IV) below:[Chem. 2]in which formula (IV):- W is a divalent Ci-Ce alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci- Ce alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU;- Rx, Ry, RzR* and Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Ce alkyl, Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or Ci-Ce aminoalkyl radical.
[0214] Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3- diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
[0215] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0216] Alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising from one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
[0217] Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N- dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0218] More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and include at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
[0219] As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0220] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function, chosen in particular from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0221] Mention may be made in particular of the use of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.
[0222] The composition of the invention particularly contains one or more alkanolamines, and / or one or more basic amino acids, more advantageously one or more alkanolamines. Even more particularly, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
[0223] The alkaline agent or agents are preferably inorganic. They are particularly chosen from alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, even more preferably sodium hydroxide.
[0224] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of alkaline agent(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
[0225] The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 4 and 10 inclusive. It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkaline agents usually used in the dyeing of keratin fibers, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
[0226] The pH of the composition is preferably inclusively between 4.5 and 8, particularly between 5 to 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better still between 5.4 and 6 such as 5.7+ / -0.2.
[0227] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made of acids vi) as defined above, by way of example in particular hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0228] Among the alkaline agents (or bases) that may be mentioned are alkaline agents vii) as defined above, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines and other alkaline agents as defined below, preferably alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxides, more preferably sodium hydroxide. ix) optionally one or more oil-absorbent or oleosorbable particles
[0229] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises ix) one or more oil-absorbent particles, also called oleabsorbable or oleosorbable particles.
[0230] The oleosorbable particle(s) ix) is (are) capable of absorbing (and / or adsorbing) an oil (i.e., fatty substance liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure) such as sebum (from the skin).
[0231] If two or more oil-absorbent particles are used, they may be identical or different.
[0232] It is preferable that the particle(s) absorbent for the oil(s) ix) have an oil absorption capacity of 140 ml / 100 g or more, more preferably 250 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 400 ml / 100 g or more, still more preferably 600 ml / 100 g or more, even more preferably 800 ml / 100 g or more, and still more preferably 1000 ml / 100 g or more.
[0233] The oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) may have an oil absorption capacity of 2200 ml / 100 g or less, preferably 2000 ml / 100 g or less, more preferably 1800 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1600 ml / 100 g or less, even more preferably 1400 ml / 100 g or less, and even more preferably 1200 ml / 100 g or less.
[0234] Thus, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) can have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 140 ml / 100 g to 2200 ml / 100 g, preferably from 250 ml / 100 g to 2000 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 400 ml / 100 g to 1800 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 600 ml / 100 g to 1600 ml / 100 g, even more preferably from 800 ml / 100 g to 1400 ml / 100 g, and still more preferably yet from 1000 ml / 100 g to 1200 ml / 100 g.
[0235] The amount of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) by the oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) can be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the process described below.
[0236] The oil absorption capacity measured at the "wet point", denoted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil(s) which must be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0237] The amount of oil(s) absorbed (and / or adsorbed) can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in ISO standard 787 / 5-1980. It corresponds to the quantity of oil absorbed / adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, by measurement of the wet point.
[0238] An amount m (in grams) of the oleo-absorbable particle ix) of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the oleo-absorbable particle ix), but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isonanoate (oil) is then added dropwise. After the addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the oil-absorbable particle ix) by means of a spatula, and the addition of isonononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this stage, isononyl isononanoate is added dropwise and the mixture is then triturated with a spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to spread over the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
[0239] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0240] In the above wet point determination protocol, the oil chosen - isononyl isononanoate - can be replaced by oleic acid or linseed oil. Unless otherwise defined, the oil absorptioncapacities defined in the present invention mean those measured using isononyl isononanoate as reference oil.
[0241] The oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) may have a volume-average particle size of less than 50 pm, preferably less than 45 pm, and more preferably less than 40 pm. Unless otherwise indicated, the particle sizes or the average particle sizes defined in the present invention mean volume-average particle sizes.
[0242] The oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) may have a volume-average particle size of 1 pm or more, preferably 2 pm or more, more preferably 3 pm or more, and even more preferably 4 pm or more.
[0243] The (primary) particle size of the oleabsorbable particle(s) viii) may be from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 2 to less than 25 pm, more preferably from 3 to less than 20 pm, and even more preferably from 4 to less than 15 pm. The (primary) particle size can be measured, for example, by extracting and measuring from a photographic image obtained by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the like, by using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like.
[0244] It is preferable to use a granulometer such as a laser diffraction granulometer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the volume-average (primary) particle size.
[0245] It is preferable for the oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) to be one or more porous particles, in particular one or more porous spherical particles.
[0246] According to another aspect of the invention, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m2 / g, for example greater than or equal to 500 m2 / g, such as a surface area less than or equal to 600 m2 / g, and less than or equal to 1500 m2 / g.
[0247] The oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) may have a density of 0.01 to 0.9 g / cm3, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 g / cm3, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 g / cm3.
[0248] The oil-absorbent particle(s) ix) may be organic or inorganic.
[0249] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more oleabsorbable inorganic particles ix).
[0250] The oleabsorbable inorganic particle(s) ix) may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating.
[0251] The hydrophobic coating(s) ix) can be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent chosen in particular from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal fatty acid carboxylates such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, fatty acid titanates such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0252] The N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds are, in particular, salts of metals of oxidation I, II or III, such as the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium.
[0253] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0254] The term "alkyl " stated in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0255] It is preferable for the inorganic oleosorbable particle(s) to comprise at least one material chosen from silica, in particular hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin, talc, and mixtures thereof.
[0256] Hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, is in particular constituted on the basis of silica aerogels, i.e., porous materials, obtained by replacing (in particular by drying or other means for evaporating solvent, in particular water) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, most often by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are known to those skilled in the art. Mention may be made, for example, of the method described in detail in the work by Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press (1990).
[0257] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and / or a size, expressed as a volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, more preferably from 1 to 100 pm, particularly from 1 to 30 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, even more preferably from 5 to 20 pm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0259] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, called the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the scientific publication J. Amer. Chem. Soc., vol. 60, p. 309 (1938), which corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0260] The sizes of the silica aerogel particle(s) can be measured by static light scattering using a granulometer, for example using a Malvern MasterSizer 2000-type commercial granulometer. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non- spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the scientific work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", chap. 9 and 10, Wiley, New York (1957).
[0261] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle(s) may have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 pm, and preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0262] The silica aerogel particle or particles can advantageously have a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3to 0.10 g / cm3, and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0263] In the context of the present invention, this density, called packed density, can be measured according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder. The cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 apparatus; then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping or compacting operations (this procedure is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%). The final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3and w in g).
[0264] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3, and more preferably from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0265] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm3and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0266] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as halosilanes, in particular alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize OH groups with silyl groups - Si(R')3, with R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, the hydrocarbon group is chosen from (Ci-Ce)alkyl, aryl such as phenyl, and aryl(Ci-Ce)alkyl such as benzyl; preferably, R' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl.
[0267] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7,470,725.
[0268] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with -Si(R')3 groups as defined above, preferably trimethylsilyl, will be used in particular.
[0269] Examples of oil-absorbent inorganic particle(s) comprise the fillers described below:
[0270] Mention may be made, as silica powders, of amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml / 100 g), precipitated silica powders surface- treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and in particular those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml / 100 g), Sunsphere® 12 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 140.6 ml / 100 g) by AGO Si-Tech, and the silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1090 ml / 100 g) by Dow Corning.
[0271] As silica powders, mention may be made of porous silica microspheres, in particular those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml / 100 g) by Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by Kobo; hollow particles of amorphous silica, in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 550 ml / 100 g); the porous silica microsphere sold under the name Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml / 100 g) by Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder sold under the name Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml / 100 g) by Oriental Silicas.
[0272] As perlite powders, mention may be made of the perlite sold under the name of
[0273] Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 250 ml / 100 g) by World Minerals, and
[0274] Perlite-MSZ12 (absorption of isononyl isononanoate oil equal to 148.2 ml / 100 g) by Miyoshi Kasei.
[0275] Mention may in particular be made, as silicate, of the aluminum silicate which is sold under the name Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml / 100 g) by Kyowa Chemical Industry.
[0276] As magnesium carbonate powder, mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 214 ml / 100 g).
[0277] As magnesium carbonate / magnesium hydroxide powder, mention may be made in particular of the product mMgCO3-Mg(OH)2-nH2O, which is marketed under the name Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml / 100 g) by Nittesu Mining.
[0278] It is also preferred to use, as oleosorbable inorganic particle, the silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average sizeranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0279] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oleabsorbable particle(s) ix) is (are) organic.
[0280] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) may comprise at least one material chosen from a) polyamide powders (in particular nylon-6), b) powders of (Ci-Ce)(alkyl)acrylic polymers and their esters of alcohols, in particular of (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C2o)alkane or (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C2o)alkene such as methanol, ethanol, ethylene glycol or allyl alcohol, in particular of polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol di methacrylate, polyallyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; c) silicones; and d) the mixture of a) to d). The above material(s) can be crosslinked.
[0281] It may be preferable for the oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) to be chosen from powders of acrylic polymers, in particular of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, methyl methacrylate copolymer, and of silicone resins.
[0282] The oleosorbable organic particle(s) ix) can, where appropriate, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
[0283] According to one embodiment, this hydrophobic treatment agent is chosen from:- silicones such as methicones and dimethicones;- fatty acids, in particular fatty acids comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid;- carboxylates of metals, in particular of aluminum, such as aluminum dimyristate and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;- amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and their salts;- lecithin, and isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and- mixtures thereof.
[0284] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes a linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 16, more particularly between 4 and 10 carbon atoms, better still between 5 and 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds denotes a linear or branched acyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more particularly from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl.
[0285] The N-acylamino acids preferably comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, orcocoyl. The salts of these compounds are, in particular, salts of metals of oxidation I, II or III, such as the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0286] Examples of oil-absorbent organic particles ix) include the fillers described below:
[0287] Acrylic polymer powders which may be mentioned are porous spheres of polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml / 100 g), vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the name KSP 100 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 142.7 ml / 100 g) by Shin Etsu. Powders of crosslinked ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, in particular those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 657 ml / 100 g), and acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate / vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name EXPANCEL 551 DE40D42 (isononyl isononanoate oil uptake equal to 1387 ml / 100 g) by Akzo Nobel.
[0288] Polyamide powders which may be mentioned are nylon-6 powder, in particular the product sold under the name Pomp610 by UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 202 ml / 100 g).
[0289] According to one embodiment of the invention, the amount of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition is at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] On the other hand, the amount of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention is particularly at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] The amount of oleosorbable particle(s) ix) in the composition according to the invention particularly ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0292] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is alternatively in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e., of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e., of the water-in-oil (W / O) type, or in the form of an oil-in-water inoil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion, or in the form of a microemulsion.
[0293] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in a direct emulsion, i.e., of the oil-in-water (O / W) type.
[0294] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is in an inverse emulsion, i.e., of the water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0295] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion.
[0296] According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a microemulsion.
[0297] The term "microemulsion" is understood to mean an O / W, W / O or O / W / O emulsion, preferably in which the (average) diameter of the particles (or micelles) is less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, more particularly less than or equal to 50 nm, better still less than or equal to 30 nm, even better still less than or equal to 20 nm. In particular, the (average) diameter of the particles is between 1 and 300 nm, more particularly between 2 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 50 nm, more preferably between 4 and 30 nm, even more preferably between 5 and 20 nm.
[0298] More preferably, the microemulsion of the invention comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvent(s), liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups; preferably, the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.
[0299] In the case of emulsions and microemulsions, the composition preferably comprises one or more surfactants x), preferably nonionic; and one or more fatty substances xi), preferably oils.
[0300] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an O / W oil-in-water emulsion. More preferably, the composition of the invention is not a microemulsion. In particular, the composition of the invention is in the form of a gel.
[0301] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel of oil / water (O / W) type.
[0302] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsified gel of water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0303] The term "emulsified gel" is understood to mean that the composition of the invention is characterized by a gelled network in which fine droplets (O / W, W / O emulsion) are suspended, thus forming an emulsified gel of O / W or W / O type. x) optionally one or more surfactant(s)
[0304] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises x) one or more surfactants. The surfactant (s) can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, preferably the surfactant (s) are nonionic or anionic.
[0305] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, of a) fatty alcohols, b) a-diols and c) alkylphenols, these three types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated andcontaining a fatty chain including, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) copolymers, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 mol of EO, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 200 mol of EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-0i4)alkylamine oxides or N- acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0306] Preferably, the surfactant(s) is (are) nonionic and is (are) chosen from: (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolated fatty alcohols; alkylpolyglycosides - preferably, oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid mono- and diesters having from 2 to 200 mol of EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO.
[0307] Preferably, the surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid mono- and diesters having from 2 to 200 mol of EO, in particular from 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 EO, such as 20 EO; glyceryl monodistearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), preferably glyceryl monoesters of Ce- C30 fatty acid. Preferably, the surfactant(s) x) is (are) chosen from polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, preferably C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl- 10 stearate or polyglyceryl-10 myristate.
[0308] The term "fatty chain" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon chain comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, which is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as (iso)stearyl.
[0309] With regard to alkylpolyglycosides, these compounds are well known and can be more particularly represented by the following general formula (III):R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (IH) in which formula (III):- R1represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising about from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;- R2represents an alkylene radical comprising about from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;- G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms;- 1 is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 0 and 4, preferably between 0 and 4; and- v denotes an integer inclusively between 1 and 15.
[0310] Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R1more particularly denotes a linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. , the value of v in the formula (III), can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 1.5.
[0311] The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
[0312] Compounds of formula (III) are notably represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / ll, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0313] It is also possible to use, for example, (Cs / Ci6)alkyl-1 ,4-polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
[0314] As regards the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably include on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups, such as 20.
[0315] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants are monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated and are preferably chosen from compounds having the formulae below:R3O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH, R3O[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or R3O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH; in which formulae:- R3represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms;- m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6; it being understood that R3may be substituted, and / or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, or groups chosen from hydroxyl, amide and ester.R3preferably represents an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl and / or alkenyl group; more particularly R3represents a C10-C24 alkyl group such as myristyl, or lauryl.
[0316] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are suitable for implementing the invention, more particularly chosen from alcohols including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0317] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0318] The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula: Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH with- Rarepresenting a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl or linear or branched C2-C3o alkenyl (preferentially C8-C30 alkyl) group; and- n representing an integer inclusively between 1 and 200, preferentially between 2 and 100, more particularly inclusively between 10 and 50, even more particularly inclusively between 15 and 30 inclusive, such as 100 or 20.
[0319] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among them, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 20 EO, lauryl alcohol 30 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
[0320] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols may also be used.
[0321] Among the nonionic surfactants, Ce-C24 alkyl polyglucosides and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are preferably used, and Cs-Ci6 alkyl polyglucosides are more particularly used.
[0322] The amount of nonionic surfactants ranges preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 % to 5% by weight, better still between 2% and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0323] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0324] The term "anionic surfactant' is understood to mean a surfactant containing only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C(O)OH, -C(O)O’, -SO3H, -S(O)2O’, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O’, -P(O)2OH, - P(O)2O-, -P(O)O2-, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH, =PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal or an ammonium, more preferably the groups are carboxyl -C(O)OH, or carboxylate -C(O)O_.
[0325] As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl carboxylic acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates,alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl diesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D- galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
[0326] These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0327] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and Ce- C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0328] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
[0329] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine and triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0330] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0331] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use (Ce-C24)alkyl carboxylic acids, in particular (C -C2o)alkyl carboxylic acids, preferably of natural origin, in particular plant origin, such as stearic acid, which may be in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.
[0332] The amount of anionic surfactants ranges preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 % to 5% by weight, better still between 2% and 4.5%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0333] The amount of surfactants ranges preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1 % to 5% by weight, better still between 2% and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. In particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.xi) optionally one or more fatty substances
[0334] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises xi) one or more fatty substances. The fatty substance or substances of the invention xi) are not oxyal kylenated.
[0335] Preferably, the fatty substance or substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers or mixtures thereof.
[0336] The fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1013x105Pa).
[0337] The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.
[0338] The term "liquid hydrocarbon" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1013x105Pa).
[0339] More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0340] In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from liquid paraffins and liquid petroleum jelly.
[0341] The term "liquid fatty alcohol" is understood to mean a non-glycerolated and non- oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1013x105Pa).
[0342] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially C10-C22, even more preferentially C14-C20, better still C16-C18.
[0343] The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0344] The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0345] More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol or 2-hexyldecanol.
[0346] According to another variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols. These liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols exhibit in their structure at least one double or triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the inventionhave, in their structure, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
[0347] These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0348] They may optionally comprise in their structures at least one aromatic or nonaromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic.
[0349] More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol or undecylenyl alcohol.
[0350] Oleyl alcohol is very particularly preferred.
[0351] The term "liquid fatty esters" is understood to mean an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e., 1013x105Pa).
[0352] The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0353] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0354] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20, alkyl (iso)stearates such as isopropyl isostearate.
[0355] Use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C4-C26 alcohols.
[0356] Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di (2- ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononate.
[0357] The composition can also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenbearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0358] Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0359] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0360] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0361] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, notably, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
[0362] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate or oleostearate.
[0363] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0364] Finally, use may also be made of natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di- or triacids.
[0365] Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.
[0366] As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
[0367] Preferably, liquid fatty esters resulting from monoalcohols will be used as esters according to the invention.
[0368] Isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate are preferred.
[0369] The term "liquid silicone" means an organopolysiloxane that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013x105Pa).
[0370] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group.
[0371] These silicones may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined previously and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbonbased group.
[0372] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0373] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane notably sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silicone Volatile® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, and also mixtures thereof.Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:[Chem. 3]Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with siliconderived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1’-bis(2,2,2’ ,2’ ,3,3’- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x1 O'6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane notably sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.These nonvolatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes, in a non-limiting way, of the following commercial products:- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s;- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.The organomodified liquid silicones may notably contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 offered by Shin Etsu and the oils Silwet® L 722 and L 77 from the company Union Carbide.
[0374] The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0375] The fatty substances may be non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
[0376] The term "non-liquids" is preferably understood to mean a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s_1.
[0377] More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, and non-liquid and preferably solid fatty ethers.
[0378] The non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are more preferentially C10-C22, even more preferentially C14- C20, better still Ci6-Ci8.
[0379] Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) are very particularly preferred.
[0380] As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, mention may be made notably of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0381] Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myristate.
[0382] Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0383] Mention may be made notably of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate.
[0384] Among all the additional esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, and stearyl myristyl myristate.
[0385] The (non-silicone) wax(es) are notably chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or flower absolute waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); white beeswaxes such as those sold by Koster Keunen; other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are notably marine waxes, such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0386] The non-liquid silicones in accordance with the invention may be in the form of waxes, resins or gums.
[0387] Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
[0388] The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are notably polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
[0389] Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q21401 sold by the company Dow Corning;- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. Theproduct SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x106m2 / s. This product preferably includes 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
[0390] The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO2, RSiOs / 2and SiO4 / 2, in which formulae:R, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
[0391] Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure.
[0392] Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate-type resins notably sold under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by Shin-Etsu.
[0393] Among the additional organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, for instance the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;- alkoxylated groups, for instance the product sold under the names Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
[0394] The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and notably dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
[0395] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more butters, which may be identical or different, preferably of plant origin.
[0396] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content, in the butter or butters according to the invention, of C16 fatty acids of the triglycerides, expressed with respect to all the fatty acids of the triglycerides, is less than 23%.
[0397] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter1’ (also known as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state and which includes, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 25°C, may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This fraction that is liquid at 25°C preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40% and 85%, by weight.
[0398] Preferably, the butter(s) have an end melting point of less than 60°C.
[0399] Preferably, the butter(s) have a hardness of less than or equal to 6 MPa.
[0400] Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal organization, which is visible by X-ray observation.
[0401] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
[0402] As regards the measurement of the melting point and the determination of the end melting point, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0403] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C and withdrawn with magnetic stirring using a spatula that is also heated, is placed in a hermetic aluminium capsule, or a crucible. Two tests are performed to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
[0404] The measurements are performed on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is performed by an RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, being first heated to 20°C and then subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of butter is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
[0405] The end melting point corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample has melted.
[0406] The liquid fraction by weight of the butter at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the butter.
[0407] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The butter is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
[0408] The heat of fusion of the butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the abovementioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C / minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the butter is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
[0409] The heat of fusion consumed at 25°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 25°C, constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0410] The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
[0411] The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
[0412] As regards the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
[0413] The composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter, which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal history and to control the crystallization, the mold is placed in a Vdtsch VC0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C / minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60 minutes, and then subjected to a temperature rise ranging from 0°C to 20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C / minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
[0414] The compression force measurement is taken using a TA / TX2i texturometer from Swantech. The spindle used is chosen according to the texture:- cylindrical steel spindle 2 mm in diameter for starting materials which are very rigid;- cylindrical steel spindle 12 mm in diameter for starting materials which are not very rigid.The measurement involves three steps:- a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / second, and penetrates into the composition according to the invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, and the software notes the maximum force value reached;- a second step, known as relaxation, where the spindle remains in this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; and finally- a third step, known as withdrawal, where the spindle returns to its original position at a speed of 1 mm / second, and the withdrawal energy of the spindle (negative force) is noted.
[0415] The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm2in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
[0416] According to a preferred mode of the invention, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0417] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkif) shea butter, galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhucalongifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter ( / W. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica , ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), and sunflower butter. Preferably, the butter or butters according to the invention are chosen from murumuru butter, ucuuba butter, shorea butter, illipe butter, shea butter, cupuagu butter and even more preferably shea butter.
[0418] In a preferred variant of the invention, the weight content of C16 fatty acids of the triglycerides expressed relative to the total fatty acids of the triglycerides varies from 0 to 22%, better still from 0 to 15%, even better still from 2 to 12%.
[0419] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more butters in an amount particularly between inclusively 0.01 % and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between inclusively 0.1 % and 20% by weight, preferentially between inclusively 0.5% and 10% by weight, and more preferentially between inclusively 1% and 5% by weight.
[0420] Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013X105Pa), optionally combined with one or more fatty substances that are non-liquid under the same conditions.
[0421] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from a) butters, preferably shea butter; b) waxes, preferably beeswaxes; c) non-liquid fatty alcohols, particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are preferentially C10-C22, more preferentially C14-C20, better still C16-C18, such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof; d) non-liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, notably solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols, in particular alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate, more particularly myristyl myristate; e) esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol or of the acid from which said esters are derived is branched, such as ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20, alkyl (iso)stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate; f) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and also mixtures thereof, preferably cyclohexadimethylsiloxane;g) oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, preferably caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.
[0422] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) xi) is (are) chosen from oils, in particular from oils, particularly from monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22 alkyl (iso)stearates, preferably C12-C20 alkyl (iso)stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate and cetearyl isononanoate, more preferably chosen from isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, and their mixture.According to a particular embodiment, the fatty substance(s) xi) included in the composition according to the present invention is (are) present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and preferably in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better still from 1 .5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. x / 7) other ingredients
[0423] The composition of the invention may also comprise other ingredients such as associative or non-associative, cationic, anionic, zwitterionic or neutral thickening polymers other than i) and ii), sequestrants, antioxidants, preservatives other than v), fragrances, active agents such as niacinamide or vitamin B3, hyaluronates and their salts such as alkali metal hyaluronates (sodium hyaluronate), fruit extracts, and ascorbyl glucoside, humectants such as glycyrrhizate of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate.The process for preparing the composition:
[0424] Another subject of the invention is a process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition i) to iv) and optionally v) to xi), by adding i), ii) and iii) and optionally v) to xi) to water iv).
[0425] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the example that follows. The contents of the ingredients are expressed as weight percentages.
[0426] Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials by applying to said materials, especially human keratin materials such as the skin, the composition as defined above, comprising the ingredients v) to xi).EXAMPLESExample 1 :The following compositions were realized. The amounts are given in the table below in g per 100 g of composition.[Table 1]
[0427] Once applied to the skin, it is observed that the compositions turn into a gel with an appearance similar to a "sorbet' and a sensation of freshness is felt. During application with a pleasant sensation, the liquid flows out and impregnates without there being any sticky sensation or dryness after application to the skin, with a slight coloration which remains homogeneous. The color of the compositions does not change over time; they are homogeneous and remain so over time. The compositions of the invention are stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C after several days or even several weeks.Sodium carbomer i) is capable of absorbing at least 50 times its weight of water (i.e., at least 50 grams of water absorbed per gram of polymer - the water absorbance characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25°C and atmospheric pressure with distilled water. After mixing, or even sonication, a "spatula-full" of the mixture is taken from the becher. The spatula is then rotated to 90° above the beaker and held still without moving. The time it takes for the mixture to remain on the spatula without dripping or falling back into the becher and even after 30 seconds, nothing falls from the spatula into the beaker. Moreover, the polymer exhibits an opaque or translucent appearance).
[0428] Example 2:
[0429] The following compositions were realized. The amounts are given in the table below in g per 100 g of composition.[Table 2]
[0430] As example 1 , once applied to the skin, it is observed that the compositions 3 to 6 turn into a gel with an appearance similar to a "sorbet' and a sensation of freshness is felt. During application with a pleasant sensation, the liquid flows out and impregnates without there being any sticky sensation or dryness after application to the skin, with a slight coloration which remains homogeneous. The color of the compositions does not change over time; they are homogeneous and remain so over time. The compositions of the invention are stable over time even at a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C after several days or even several weeks.
[0431] As example 1, Sodium carbomer i) used is capable of absorbing at least 50 times its weight of water.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising: i) at least one polymer derived from (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylic acid and salts thereof, comprising a repeating unit of formula (I):-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO M+)]- in which formula (I):- R1and R2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium;- y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; and- z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z; ii) at least one polysaccharide, which is linear or branched; iii) at least one colorant; and iv) water.
2. A composition according to claim 1 in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consist(s) of, a repetition of units of formula (I) and unit(s) of formula (II):-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO-M+)]- (I) and -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOH)]- (II) in which formula (I) and (II) R1and R2, and M+, are as defined in claim 1 ; preferably R1and R2represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, M+represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferably M+represents an alkali metal such as sodium; more preferably R1represents a hydrogen atom, R2represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, even more preferably R2represents a hydrogen atom; and M+preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium; preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
3. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consist(s) of, a repetition of units of formula (I) and unit(s) of formula (II):-[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COO-M+)]y- (I) and -[CH(R1)-C(R2)(COOH)]Z- (II) in which formula (I) and (II) :- R1and R2, and M+, are as defined in claim 1 ; preferably R1and R2represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably a hydrogen atom, M+represents a cationic counterion chosen from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium, preferably M+represents an alkali metal such as sodium; more preferably R1represents a hydrogen atom, R2represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, even more preferably R2represents a hydrogen atom; and M+preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, more preferably sodium;- y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; and- z is zero, or represents a number greater than zero; preferably y > z; preferably, the polymer(s) i) is (are) partially neutralized, preferably by a metal salt, more preferably by an alkali metal salt, and even more preferably a sodium salt.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) capable of absorbing at least 20 times its (their) weight of water (i.e., at least 20 grams of water absorbed per gram of polymer - the water absorbance characteristics being defined at room temperature: 25°C and atmospheric pressure with distilled water), particularly at least 50 times its (their) weight of water, more particularly at least 80 times its (their) weight of water, preferably the polymer(s) of formula (I) is (are) capable of absorbing at least 100 times its (their) weight of water.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which comprise, particularly which consist(s) of, a repetition of units of formula (I) and of unit(s) of formula (II) and is (are) capable of crosslinking in the presence of one or more crosslinking agents; preferably the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium polyacrylates, preferably alkali metal and alkaline earth metal polyacrylates, more preferably alkali metal polyacrylates such as sodium acrylates, crosslinked and partially neutralized and also called carbomer, more particularly the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from carbomers, preferably carbomer S or sodium carbomer.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which is (are) in the form of particles, preferably spherical; the average size of the primary particles (non-hydrated) as D50 comprising (preferably consisting of) the polymer(s) i) is preferably at least 0.1 pm, preferably at least 0.5 pm, and more preferably at least 1 pm and at most 200 pm, preferably at most 100 pm, more preferably at most 50 pm, with the proviso that the term "D50" denotes the particle size for which 50% of the volume of the particles, based on the total volume of the particles, has a particle size of less than or equal to D50, where the D50 value can be determined by laser diffraction, or by using a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the polymer(s) i) is (are) chosen from the polymer(s) i) which are present in the form of particles which, once hydrated, swell to form flexible particles having an average diameter of inclusively between 10 pm and 300 pm, more particularly between 20 pm and 200 pm, even more particularly between 40 pm and 150 pm. The particle sizes correspond to the primary particle sizes.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of polymer(s) i) in the composition is at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly at least 0.7% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5% by weight, and more preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; particularly the amount of polymer(s) i) as defined in any one of the preceding claims in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.7% to 4% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide(s) ii) is (are) derived from native gums such as those derived from exudates of trees or shrubs, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, plants, chosen from gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; preferably the polysaccharide(s) b) are derived from native gums and chosen from: exudates of trees or shrubs, including gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; gum tragacanth (or tragacanth); gums derived from algae, including agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans; gums derived from seeds or tubers, including guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; microbial gums, including xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; plant extracts, including cellulose; starch; inulin and pectin; and chitin and chitosan derivatives; more preferably, the polysaccharide(s) ii) are chosen from pullulan, xanthan or dehydroxanthan gums and carrageenan gums.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide(s) ii), preferably branched, is (are) chosen from a) polysaccharides consisting of combinations of monosaccharides chosen from glucose, mannose and glucuronic acid, combined or not with a (keto)(Ci-Ce)alkyl carboxylic acid such as pyruvic acid; more preferably the polysaccharide(s) is (are) chosen from xanthan gums, b) fucose-galactose- galacturonic acid trisaccharides; particularly composed of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid residues, more preferably the polysaccharide or polysaccharides is Biosaccharide Gum- 1 (223266-93-1) (fermentation gum derived from sorbitol) which is a trisaccharide of a-L- fucose(1^3)a-D-galactose(1^3)-aD-galacturonic acid, c) the mixture of a) and b),preferably the mixture of xanthan gum and trisaccharides of a-L-fucose(1^3)a-D- galactose(1^3)-aD-galacturonic acid (Biosaccharide Gum-1).
11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of polysaccharide(s) ii) in the composition ranges from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is greater than or equal to 1 , more particularly greater than or equal to 2, even more particularly greater than or equal to 3, more particularly the mass ratio of ingredients i) / ii) is between 1 and 20, even more particularly between 2 and 15, preferably between 3 and 10, better still 3.4 to 9, more specifically between 7 and 9.
13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the colorant(s) is (are) chosen from: pigments, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, neutral, non- fluorescent or fluorescent direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, preferably pigments, especially chosen from carmines, carbon blacks (or charcoal), aniline blacks, azo yellows, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blues, triarylmethane blues, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11660, 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, and the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives, the D & C Red and D & C Yellow pigments, preferably D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200) and D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140) and the D & C Blue pigments, preferably D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090), more preferably chosen from black pigments such as carbon black (charcoal); yellow pigment such as D&C Yellow 5; red pigment such as D&C Red 33, and / or blue pigment such as D&C Blue 1.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the colorant(s) iii) is (are) present in a concentration ranging from 0.00001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.00005% to 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 0.0001% to 0.05% by weight, more particularly between 0.0001% and 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of water iv) of the composition is greater than or equal to 10%, more particularly greater than or equal to 20%, preferably greater than or equal to 30%, more preferably greater than orequal to 40%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 50%, better still greater than or equal to 60%, better still greater than or equal to 70%, even better still greater than or equal to 80%; preferably the composition comprises between 10% and 99.9% by weight of water, more particularly between 20% and 98% by weight of water, 30% and 90% by weight of water, even more particularly between 40% and 95% by weight of water, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight of water, more preferably between 60% and 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the pH of the composition is comprised inclusively between 4 and 10, preferably comprised inclusively between 4.5 and 8, particularly between 5 to 7 and more particularly between 5.2 and 7.5, better still between 5.4 and 6 such as 5.7+ / -0.2.
17. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises v) one or more organic solvent(s), in particular chosen from: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols miscible with water at room temperature (25°C) in particular chosen from polyols having especially from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably the composition comprises v) one or more polar protic organic solvents, liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, preferably chosen from alcohols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably the solvent is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, more particularly ethanol and caprylyl glycol; preferably, the organic solvent(s) v) is (are) chosen from a) and more preferably is (are) chosen from ethanol, glycerol and caprylyl glycol, and a mixture thereof; more particularly the organic solvent(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
18. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises one or more organic or inorganic acids vi), preferably one or more organic acids, particularly chosen from (poly)(hydroxy)carboxylic acids in particular of formula R'-C(O)-OH, with R' representing a linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; preferably, R' represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carboxyl groups or else R' represents an aryl group such as benzyl optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carboxyl groups;preferably, the acid(s) vi) is (are) chosen from hydroxy(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid or salicylic acid.
19. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises vii) one or more alkaline organic or inorganic agents, preferably one or more alkaline inorganic agents, more particularly chosen from alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof, even more particularly sodium or potassium hydroxides, even more preferably sodium hydroxide.
20. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises ix) one or more inorganic oleosorbable particles, which particularly comprise at least one material chosen from silica, more particularly hydrophobic silica such as silica silylate, silicate, perlite, boron nitride, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as magnesium hydroxide, kaolin or talc, and mixtures thereof.
21. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which is alternatively in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. , of water-in-oil (O / W) type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e., of water-in-oil (W / O) type, or in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in oil (O / W / O) emulsion, or in the form of a microemulsion; preferably, the composition of the invention is an emulsion of O / W type, more preferably an emulsified gel of O / W or W / O type, especially of O / W type.
22. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises x) one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, particularly nonionic or anionic, more particularly nonionic, surfactants; preferably, the surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid mono- and diesters having from 2 to 200 mol of EO, more particularly from 10 to 100 EO, such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 EO, such as 20 EO; glyceryl mono-distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO), preferably glyceryl mono-esters of C6-C30 fatty acid, more preferably the surfactant(s) x) is (are) chosen from polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, preferably C10-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate or polyglyceryl-10 myristate; the amount of surfactants ranges preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, better still between 2% and 4.5% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention; in particular, the amount of surfactant is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which comprises xi) one or more fatty substances, especially chosen from oils, especially from oils in particular from monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropylpalmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2- ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22, preferably C12-C20 alkyl (iso)stearates, such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate, more preferably isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate; particularly the fatty substance(s) xi) is (are) present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 40% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10%, more preferably from 1% to 5%, better still from 1 .5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. A process for treating keratin materials, especially human keratin materials such as the skin, by applying to said materials the composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.