Mineral oil-free lipstick with high glycerin content

Abstract

Cosmetic lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) diisoestearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dilinoleate dimer, b) a second emulsifier from the group of compounds polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, c) sunflower wax, wherein the preparation is free from mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and crosslinked C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the preparation contains carnauba wax and its production.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, b) a second emulsifier from the group of compounds polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, c) sunflower wax, wherein the preparation is free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the preparation contains carnauba wax, and its manufacturing process.

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been rooted in humankind for thousands of years. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal, as a pleasing appearance increases self-esteem and attractiveness to others.

[0003] The term decorative cosmetics derives from the Latin "decoratio" – the highlighting of beauty. It usually involves using dyes to accentuate specific parts of the body, especially the face, and to soften uneven skin tone.

[0004] In addition to face powders and blush as powdered cosmetics and stick-shaped preparations, cream-shaped preparations such as day creams and cream-make-up based on emulsions are also used.

[0005] Lipstick is among the most frequently used decorative cosmetics. More than 50% of women in Germany use it. Besides accentuating the color of the lips, it usually also serves to care for them.

[0006] Lipsticks typically consist of a wax matrix into which small concentrations of liquid and semi-solid oils, as well as pigments and fillers, are incorporated. They are in solid stick form.

[0007] A disadvantage of the prior art is that lip care products such as lip creams, lip butters, etc., and especially lipsticks, often contain mineral oils and paraffin waxes, which are increasingly unpopular with consumers. Besides a general desire for products made from renewable raw materials, concerns about potentially harmful impurities that might be present in crude oil-based raw materials also play a role. Whether these concerns are actually justified can remain open to discussion within the scope of this disclosure. The fact is that many consumers desire "mineral oil-free" products.

[0008] The objective of the present invention was therefore to develop a "mineral oil-free" lipstick.

[0009] To improve the moisturizing properties of lipsticks, glycerin is often added to the formulas. Glycerin serves to moisturize the lips and prevents them from drying out and becoming chapped.

[0010] However, the production of mineral oil-free or paraffin wax-free lipsticks with higher glycerin contents (greater than 20% by weight) presents unexpected problems: After the hot lipstick mixture is poured into the mold, it must cool to solidify and be removed from the mold. During production, however, the lipstick mixture, which has become hygroscopic due to the glycerin, absorbs water from the surrounding air. This causes the lipstick mixture to not harden properly upon cooling, but instead to become softer and stickier, and it can no longer be removed from the mold. Rather, it remains stuck to the mold.

[0011] The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate this disadvantage of the prior art and to develop a mineral oil-free and paraffin wax-free lipstick with a higher glycerin content (greater than 20 wt%) which hardens during cooling during production and can then be easily removed from the stick mold.

[0012] The problem is surprisingly solved by a cosmetic lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, b) a second emulsifier from the group of compounds polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, c) sunflower wax, wherein the preparation is free from mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the preparation contains carnauba wax.

[0013] The problem is also surprisingly solved by a method for producing a lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion, wherein the oil phase a) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, c) Sunflower wax and d) Carnauba wax, wherein the preparation is free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and cross-linked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the glycerol phase and the oil phase are first combined and homogenized at a temperature of greater than or equal to 80 °C.

[0014] Although the person skilled in the art is familiar with WO 2021 / 239384, this document could not have pointed the way to the present invention.

[0015] Within the scope of the present disclosure, the terms "according to the invention", "preparation according to the invention", etc., always refer to the preparations and processes according to the invention, i.e., also to preparations with which the process according to the invention is implemented.

[0016] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains glycerin in an amount of 21 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0017] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains water in a concentration of less than 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0018] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate in a concentration of 1 to 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0019] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the preparation contains polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate in a concentration of 0.5 to 2.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0020] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains sunflower wax in a concentration of 1.0 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0021] Advantageous embodiments within the meaning of the present invention are also characterized in that the preparation contains carnauba wax in a concentration of 0.3 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0022] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the preparation contains behenyl behenate (INCI: Behenyl Behenate).

[0023] In such a case, according to the invention, it is preferred if the preparation contains behenyl behenate (INCI: Behenyl Behenate) in a concentration of 1.0 to 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0024] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera alba).

[0025] In such a case, according to the invention, it is preferred if the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera alba) in a concentration of 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] Furthermore, the lipstick preparation may contain the ingredients usual for such products, for example, other lipophilic components, active ingredients such as coenzyme Q10, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, β-alanine, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, thiamidol; allantoin, vitamin E or vitamin E acetate, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts, licochalcone A and / or plant extracts.

[0027] The inventive method is advantageously characterized in that, after homogenization at a temperature of greater than or equal to 80 °C, the preparation is cooled to 70 to 75 °C while stirring and then poured into a mold for pens and cooled to room temperature in this mold at a cooling rate of 0.2-0.4 °C / second.

[0028] Furthermore, it is advantageous for the method according to the invention if, after cooling to room temperature, the pen-shaped mass (pen lead) is demolded and transferred into a storage container for pen-shaped preparations. Examples

[0029] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and total quantity or total weight of the preparations. INCI Example A Example B Example C Example D Phase A Behenyl Behenate 5 4 4 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil 57,5 50,8 46,3 47,3 Cera Alba 4 Copernicia Cerifera Cera 0,3 0,5 1,5 0,5 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil 10 10 10 10 Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera 1 2,5 2 2,5 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 1,4 1,4 1,4 1,4 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate 0,8 0,8 0,8 0,8 Phase B Glycerin 21 26 28 30 Aqua 3 4 6 3,5 100 100 100 100 Preparation of solid formulation:

[0030] Heat phase A to 90°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 85°C while stirring. Slowly add phase B to phase A, stirring at 800-1200 rpm. Stir the emulsion at 80°C for 20 minutes. Then pour into the mold at 70-75°C. Allow to cool at room temperature for 15 minutes. The cooling rate is approximately 0.3°C / sec. Then allow to cure for a further 30 minutes at -18°C. Recommended equipment: IKA mixer with suitable dissolver. Production of cream formulation:

[0031] Heat phase A to 90°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 85°C while stirring. Slowly add phase B to phase A, stirring at 150 rpm. Homogenize the hot emulsion. Then stir again at 50-70 rpm while cold. Homogenize the emulsion again at 30°C.

Claims

1. Cosmetic lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion comprising a) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, b) a second emulsifier from the group of compounds Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, c) sunflower wax, the preparation being free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and crosslinked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the preparation comprises carnauba wax.

2. Process for producing a lipstick based on a glycerin-in-oil emulsion, the oil phase comprising a) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, c) sunflower wax and d) carnauba wax, the preparation being free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, polyethylene waxes, polyacrylates and crosslinked acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, characterized in that the glycerin phase and the oil phase are first combined and homogenized at a temperature of in each case greater than / equal to 80°C.

3. Lipstick according to Claim 1 or process according to Claim 2, characterized in that the preparation comprises glycerin in an amount of 21% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

4. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises water in a concentration of less than 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

5. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate in a concentration of 1% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

6. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate in a concentration of 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises sunflower wax in a concentration of 1.0% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises carnauba wax in a concentration of 0.3% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises behenyl behenate (INCI: Behenyl Behenate).

10. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises behenyl behenate (INCI: Behenyl Behenate) in a concentration of 1.0% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

11. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba).

12. Lipstick or process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) in a concentration of 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Process according to any of Claims 2 to 12, characterized in that, after the homogenization at a temperature of greater than / equal to 80°C, the preparation is cooled to 70°C to 75°C with stirring and then cast into a casting mould for sticks and cooled therein to room temperature at a cooling rate of 0.2-0.4°C / second.

14. Process according to Claim 13, characterized in that, after the cooling to room temperature, the stick-shaped compound (stick core) is demoulded and transferred into a storage container for stick-shaped preparations.