Combination of a cross-linked, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and a non-cross-linked, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid as defined in the invention.

Description

Title of the invention: Association of a cross-linked hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight and a non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight. TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to the particular combination of a cross-linked hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight and a non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight, intended to provide an immediate smoothing effect and / or an increase in the density and / or volume of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Hyaluronic acid is one of the essential constituents of the extracellular matrix. In the skin, it is synthesized by fibroblasts from which it is secreted into the extracellular space. Hyaluronic acid is particularly involved in the structure and organization of the dermis, helping to ensure its firmness and elasticity. In addition, hyaluronic acid has a strong water retention capacity. It therefore plays a key role in regulating skin hydration.

[0003] For many years, it has been possible to industrially produce hyaluronic acid, particularly by bacterial fermentation, and the cosmetics industry commonly uses this molecule for its anti-aging and moisturizing properties.

[0004] Structurally, hyaluronic acid is a polymer formed by the repetition of disaccharide monomers, themselves consisting of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine linked together by alternating glycosidic bonds [3-1,4 and [3-1,3. Like any polymer, hyaluronic acid is a macromolecule whose molar mass can vary, depending on the number of repetitions, from a few thousand Daltons to several million (approximately 5000 to 20000000 Da).

[0005] To achieve an immediate smoothing effect, which is also a factor in anti-aging, it is common to add fillers to cosmetic formulations to blur the visual and tactile irregularities of the skin and thus reduce, through optical effect, the signs of aging, including wrinkles and fine lines. However, it is known that fillers negatively impact the moisturizing effect provided by hyaluronic acid.

[0006] There is therefore a need to provide new moisturizing cosmetic compositions which also provide an immediate smoothing effect for the skin and / or lips.

[0007] The Applicant has developed new cosmetic compositions to meet this need. Indeed, surprisingly, the Applicant was able to demonstrate that the particular combination of at least one high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid and at least one low molecular weight non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid makes it possible to significantly increase the hydration and immediate smoothing effect of keratin materials. The Applicant was also able to show that this combination makes it possible to obtain a smoothing and plumping effect on the lips and the area surrounding them, in particular an improvement in the smooth, supple and plump appearance of the lips was observed. The combination of at least one high molecular weight non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid and at least one low molecular weight non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid does not, however, make it possible to obtain the desired performance, highlighting the essential role of the cross-linking of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0008] This particular combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention is therefore particularly advantageous for providing both a moisturizing effect and an immediate smoothing effect on the skin and / or lips and thus preventing and / or reducing the signs of skin aging and / or conferring a volumizing, lifting and smoothing effect on the lips, but also for preventing and / or reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Summary of the invention

[0009] A first aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 2000 KDa or one of its salts and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than or equal to 300 KDa or one of its salts.

[0010] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 3000 KDa.

[0011] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight less than or equal to 200 KDa.

[0012] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER.

[0013] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid is chosen from the products with INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE, and HYALURONIC ACID.

[0014] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a crosslinking of 0.001% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 1%, preferably 0.1% to 0.6%.

[0015] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid are each present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

[0017] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it comprises less than 5% filler, in particular less than 2% filler, preferably less than 1% filler or even is filler-free.

[0018] Preferably, said cosmetic composition is characterized in that it is in the form of a topical composition for the skin and / or the lips, in particular in the form of a cream, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, mask or a lip balm.

[0019] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a composition as defined above.

[0020] Preferably, said cosmetic process is characterized in that it is intended to promote the hydration of keratin materials and / or an immediate smoothing effect of keratin materials and / or promote the firmness and / or elasticity and / or density and / or volume of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and thus prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular prevent and / or reduce a loss of firmness and / or elasticity, and / or density and / or volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or the appearance of wrinkles, in particular around the lips and / or striations on the lips.

[0021] Preferably, said cosmetic process is characterized in that said composition is applied to healthy subjects showing signs related to aging of the skin and / or lips, in particular a loss of firmness and / or elasticity, and / or density and / or volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or wrinkles of the skin and / or on the contour of the lips and / or thin lips and / or lips showing ridges.

[0022] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid. having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 2000 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 3000 KDa or one of its salts and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than or equal to 300 KDa or one of its salts, as a combination of active ingredients to provide an immediate smoothing effect on keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or lips. DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0023] [Fig.l] In-vivo effects of the association of hyaluronic acids on hydration and immediate smoothing effect.

[0024] [Fig.2] Representation of the 3 areas studied during the clinical evaluation by the panel expert. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] Association of particular hyaluronic acids according to the invention

[0026] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the combination of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid.

[0027] Surprisingly, the Applicant was able to show that the combination of these two particular hyaluronic acids in the same cosmetic composition produces a synergistic effect, thus reinforcing the benefits provided individually by each of these hyaluronic acids.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the hyaluronic acids used according to the invention are implemented according to the invention in the form of a powder or a gel in cosmetic compositions.

[0029] When hyaluronic acid is in powder form, it is generally present at 100% as active ingredient.

[0030] When the hyaluronic acid is in gel form, it is generally present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the gel.

[0031] By "hyaluronic acid" or "HA" is meant a polymer formed by the repetition of disaccharide monomers consisting of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine linked together by alternating glycosidic bonds [3-1,4 and [3-1,3. Naturally present in a linear form, the hyaluronic acid macromolecule can also exist in a crosslinked form. By "crosslinked hyaluronic acid" is meant that the hyaluronic acid chains are linked together by covalent or ionic bonds, thus creating an ordered three-dimensional network. Depending on the different applications, it is possible to produce crosslinked hyaluronic acid with different degrees of crosslinking. Crosslinked polymers based on hyaluronic acids are obtained by methods well known to those skilled in the art. Typical examples of crosslinking agents currently used to produce crosslinked hyaluronic acid are divinyl sulfone (DVS), 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether, water-soluble carbodiimides, and crosslinkers containing multiple amine groups.

[0032] By 'hyaluronic acid salt' is meant in particular sodium hyaluronate, potassium hyaluronate, or any other cosmetically acceptable hyaluronic acid salt.

[0033] Hyaluronic acid polymers can be of variable size, in particular depending on the number of repetitions and the degree of crosslinking. Typically, hyaluronic acid has a molar mass of between a few thousand Daltons and several million, such as for example between 103 and 107 Da, i.e. between 1 and 10,000 KDa.

[0034] High molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid

[0035] The combination of active ingredients according to the invention therefore comprises at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid or one of its salts.

[0036] According to the present invention, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a degree of crosslinking ranging from 0.001% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 1% and preferably from 0.1% to 0.6%.

[0037] According to the present invention, we will speak of “high molecular weight hyaluronic acid” when it has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 1000 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1200 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1400 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 2000 KDa, such as for example greater than or equal to 3000 KDa.

[0038] According to the present invention, when we speak of molecular weight or molecular mass of hyaluronic acid, it is meant that it is the "average" molecular mass (or average molecular weight) of the hyaluronic acid molecules constituting the raw material used. Indeed, the raw materials used as sources of hyaluronic acids comprise hyaluronic acid polymers whose molar mass can vary slightly. These variations in molecular mass are notably linked to the fact that the number of basic units (i.e., disaccharide monomers) included in the hyaluronic acid molecule at the time of its polymerization varies slightly. Thus, when we speak of the 'molar mass of hyaluronic acid' or 'average molar mass of hyaluronic acid', it is meant that the molar mass is "approximately" the indicated mass.In particular, the molar mass of hyaluronic acid indicated can vary by ±20%, preferably ±15% and even more preferably ±10%.

[0039] Thus, according to the present invention, when we speak of a hyaluronic acid with a molar mass equal to 1000 KDa, we mean that the average molar mass of said acid hyaluronic acid is approximately 1000 KDa but may be between 800 and 1200 KDa, preferably between 850 and 1150 KDa and more preferably between 900 and 1100 KDa.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in the form of a gel. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably the product marketed under the name “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100” by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd. “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100” is a hyaluronic acid gel comprising from 1% to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the product. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 1000 KDa to 1800 KDa. The product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetics Ingredients): SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA.

[0041] According to another particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in the form of a powder. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably the product with the trade name “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd. “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” is a hyaluronic acid in powder form, 100% pure, that is to say composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass greater than or equal to 3000 KDa. The product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER.

[0042] In its capacity as a cosmetic active ingredient, high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect.

[0043] In particular, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid, preferably the product with the trade name “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200”, is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid

[0045] The combination of active ingredients according to the invention also comprises at least one low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid or one of its salts.

[0046] According to the present invention, we will speak of “low molecular weight hyaluronic acid” when it has a molecular weight less than or equal to 500 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 400 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 300 KDa.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used according to the present invention, in combination, has a molecular weight less than or equal to 500 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 400 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 300 KDa and preferably greater than or equal to 50 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 100 KDa. In particular, according to a particular embodiment, its molecular weight ranges from 100 KDa to 300 KDa.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used according to the present invention, in association, has a molecular weight less than or equal to 200 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 150 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 100 KDa and preferably greater than or equal to 10 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 50 KDa. In particular, according to a particular embodiment, its molecular weight ranges from 10 KDa to 100 KDa.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used according to the present invention, in association, has a molecular weight less than or equal to 100 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 50 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 10 KDa and preferably greater than or equal to 1 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 5 KDa. In particular, according to a particular embodiment, its molecular weight ranges from 5 KDa to 10 KDa.

[0050] According to the present invention, said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid may be in the form of a gel or in the form of a powder. Advantageously, it is in the form of a powder.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name “Bashyal powder” by the company Soliance. The product “Bashyal powder” is a hyaluronic acid in powder form, 100% pure, that is to say composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 100 KDa to 300 KDa. “Bashyal powder” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE.

[0052] According to another particular embodiment, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name "Oligo HA" by the company Sochibo. The product "Oligo HA" is a hyaluronic acid in powder form, 100% pure, that is to say composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 5 KDa to 10 KDa. The “oligo HA” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: HYALURONIC ACID.

[0053] In its capacity as a cosmetic active ingredient, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in an amount effective for obtaining the desired effect.

[0054] In particular, the low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, preferably the product with the trade name "Bashyal powder" or the product with the trade name "Oligo HA", is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Cosmetic and galenic compositions according to the invention

[0056] In the context of the present invention, the combination of hyaluronic acids described above is notably used for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions suitable for topical application to keratin materials, notably to the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or the lips.

[0057] Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid as defined above or one of its salts and at least one low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid as defined above or one of its salts.

[0058] By "cosmetic composition" is meant any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0059] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0060] By "keratin materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly the human skin and / or lips. In particular, this will be the skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and the lips.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid having the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA, in particular the active ingredient marketed under the name “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid having the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, in particular the active ingredient marketed under the name “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co.,Ltd.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, having the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE, in particular the active ingredient marketed under the name “Bashyal powder” by the company Soliance.

[0064] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, having the INCI name: HYALURONIC ACID, in particular the active ingredient marketed under the name “Oligo HA” by the company Sochibo.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: • high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Phylcare® HyacrossTM TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER,

[0066] and • low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Bashyal powder” by the company Soliance, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE.

[0067] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: • high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Phylcare® HyacrossTM TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER,

[0068] and • low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Oligo HA” by the company Sochibo, with the INCI name: HYALURONIC ACID.

[0069] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises said hyaluronic acids, respectively high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect.

[0070] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, each in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, each of the hyaluronic acids used according to the invention is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of raw material (weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] When the hyaluronic acids are dispersed in a gel-forming solvent, they are each present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of active material (hyaluronic acid polymer) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Advantageously, said cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid in a ratio (by weight of raw material) high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid / low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid of between 0.01 and 100, preferably between 0.1 and 10, most preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0074] If we reason in terms of weight of active material of hyaluronic acid polymer, the ratio of high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid to said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid will generally range from 0.1 to 10, in particular from 0.5 to 2.

[0075] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or lips.

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or lips.

[0077] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, as defined above, and in addition one or more acceptable cosmetic excipients from among those known to those skilled in the art with a view to obtaining a composition for topical application.

[0078] The invention therefore also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition in the form of a topical composition for the skin and / or the lips, in particular in the form of a cream, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, mask or a lip balm.

[0079] The composition of the invention may also further comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The cosmetic adjuvants advantageously used in the composition of the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise one or more cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, preferably chosen from the products with the INCI name polyglycerin-3 and polyglycerin-6.

[0082] As cosmetic ingredients based on polyglycerols which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the references marketed by the company SAKAMOTO PGL-S with the INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-3 POLYGLYCERIN 310 with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-4 POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-6 and AQUA (WATER) POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-10 and AQUA (WATER).

[0083] The Applicant has in fact been able to show that the use of polyglycerols, in particular in association with at least one crosslinked hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight as defined above or one of its salts and at least one non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight as defined above or one of its salts, makes it possible to further improve the plumping effect of the lips, and in particular the immediate and / or long-term plumping effect.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least 0.5% of polyglycerols, in particular at least 1% of polyglycerols, preferably at least 2% of polyglycerols, in particular chosen from the products with the INCI name polyglycerin-3 and polyglycerin-6.

[0085] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 10% polyglycerols, in particular less than 8% polyglycerols, preferably less than 6% polyglycerols, in particular chosen from the products with the INCI name polyglycerin-3 and polyglycerin-6.

[0086] Depending on the nature of the composition, one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may also be selected. All excipients commonly used in the preparation of cosmetic compositions intended for use on keratin materials may be used in the present invention. Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable excipients are among polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, electrolytes, pH adjusters, preservatives, colorants, nacres, pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises less than 5% of fillers, in particular less than 2% of fillers, preferably less than 1% of filler, in particular of filler with a soft focus effect.

[0088] However, according to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is free of filler, in particular filler with a soft-focus effect. Indeed, if fillers with a soft-focus effect advantageously make it possible to obtain an immediate smoothing effect, to gain in viscosity and to have a less shiny appearance upon application, the latter can negatively impact the moisturizing effect of hyaluronic acid.

[0089] By "fillers" is meant platelet-shaped particles, spherical or oblong, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying effect. By "blurring effect" filler is meant an effect which camouflages the microreliefs of the skin and thus makes it possible to attenuate, by optical correction effect, imperfections of relief and / or color, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores and spots. Cosmetic processes and uses

[0090] The cosmetic processes and cosmetic uses described below are intended for application to keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, preferably skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck, and healthy lips of 'healthy' subjects.

[0091] The keratin materials according to the invention are in particular healthy keratin materials (“healthy” subjects), that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be part of a pathological state (“unhealthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). We will speak indifferently of healthy skin and / or lips or skin and / or lips in the rest of the description.

[0092] Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as described above.

[0093] In the context of the present invention, said cosmetic process is intended to promote the hydration of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips.

[0094] In the context of the present invention, said cosmetic process is also intended to provide an immediate smoothing effect on keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0095] By "smoothing effect" is meant that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to reduce roughness and / or skin microrelief. By "immediate smoothing effect" is meant that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a smoothing effect within one hour after application of said composition.

[0096] Thus, in particular through its effects on hydration, roughness, and skin microrelief, said cosmetic process of the invention makes it possible to reduce the signs of skin aging.

[0097] In the context of the present invention, said cosmetic process is also intended to promote the firmness and / or elasticity of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and thus prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular prevent and / or reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

[0098] Thus, the cosmetic process of the invention also has particularly interesting anti-aging properties.

[0099] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and one low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid as defined above as a combination of active ingredients to provide an immediate smoothing effect on keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0100] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the cosmetic processes and uses according to the invention comprise: • high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Phylcare® HyacrossTM TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER,

[0101] and • low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Bashyal powder” by the company Soliance, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE.

[0102] According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the cosmetic processes and uses according to the invention comprise: • high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Phylcare® HyacrossTM TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER,

[0103] and • low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, in particular the active ingredient with the trade name “Oligo HA” by the company Sochibo, with the INCI name: HYALURONIC ACID.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects having dry skin.

[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

[0106] According to another particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects showing signs linked to aging of the skin, in particular wrinkles.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects having dry lips and / or thin lips and / or lips presenting ridges and / or wrinkles around the lip contour.

[0108] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0109] Example 1 _ Study of the immediate smoothing effect _ of the skin 1-1 Study protocol Purpose of the study

[0110] The aim of the study is to evaluate and compare the immediate smoothing effect on the microdepressional network or RmD (before and 1 hour after application) of one or more products by the skin replication method.

[0111] The immediate smoothing effect of the different products was evaluated on male or female volunteers, all aged at least 35 years, and not presenting any skin disease in the area evaluated. Principle of measurement

[0112] Replicas of the skin surface are taken at different times during the study. These replicas are imprints of the skin surface which are then used to evaluate the cosmetic effects of the active ingredients tested. These replicas are processed by image analysis using Quantilines software.

[0113] The replicas are taken by applying, on the test area, 1 adhesive ring of 24 mm diameter. Then using a spatula, the Silflo silicone casting resin (Flexico) plus catalyst (Flexico) is spread inside the ring. After drying, the replica is then peeled off the surface of the skin.

[0114] The replica is illuminated by a grazing illuminating lamp at an angle of incidence of 35° to generate shadows behind each line of the skin surface. These shadows are then analyzed on the video images of the replica using the Quantilines software, which calculates parameters representative of the skin surface.

[0115] The replicas are positioned relative to the light source so as to maximize shading (north-south orientation).

[0116] The replicas taken after treatment are strictly repositioned in relation to those taken before treatment.

[0117] The surface of the replica is divided by 90 equidistant lines, for each of which the software calculates the following parameters: • Ra is the average roughness, the ratio of the integrated area of the length profile to the length of the profile. Average Ra is the arithmetic mean of the Ra values of all profiles (in arbitrary units). • Rz is the average amplitude of the peak on the profile considered. Each profile is divided into 5 segments of equal length for each of which the amplitude of the peak Rzi is calculated. The average Rz is the arithmetic mean of the Rzi values of all profiles (in arbitrary units). • Rm is the maximum roughness (the maximum roughness between the 5 segments analyzed). • Surface area: corresponds to the factor between the actual length of the skin and the length that can be seen. This is the smoothing of the skin and the highlighting of microwrinkles. The more microwrinkles the skin has, the more the Surface area increases. The result is displayed in the "Surface area" result window as a %.

[0118] The measurements were taken on the skin of the forearm, before application of the product being evaluated and then 1 hour after application. The product being evaluated was spread by a technician at a rate of 2 pL / cm2. Evaluation criteria

[0119] The main evaluation criteria are Rm, Rz, Ra and Surface.

[0120] These parameters decrease if the treatment has a beneficial effect on skin smoothing. The product can be said to have a smoothing effect on the skin if at least two of the main evaluation criteria decrease significantly.

[0121] The difference between the value before and the value one hour after application is calculated for each parameter, each volunteer and each product. These differences are compared by analysis of variance. If they are significant, the products are classified by the Newman-Keuls test. Statistical analyses

[0122] The statistical method used is analysis of variance (ANOVA). It was assumed that the data follow the normal distribution. With ANOVA, the Student Newman-Keuls test is performed for multiple comparisons of means and determination of the similarity group.

[0123] Sample size: A sufficient number of volunteers should be included to allow the evaluation of 12 subjects.

[0124] Degree of significance: risk a less than or equal to (< or =) 5%.

[0125] Calculation methods: • Effect of the product on the skin:

[0126] For each parameter and each product, calculation and comparison by ANOVA of the means, before treatment (t0) and the times after treatment (h).

[0127] The percentage change is calculated using the following equation:

[0128] VARi% = (E - Po) / Po* 100

[0129] where:

[0130] Po: average of the parameter of the treated area at time t0.

[0131] P;: average of the parameter of the treated area at time h.

[0132] Percentages are calculated only if the differences are significant compared to the pre-treatment values.

[0133] 1- 2: Commercial references of the cosmetic active ingredients used in the examples High molecular weight hyaluronic acid

[0134] • “Hyacross TL200”

[0135] Commercial product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” produced by the company Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co.,Ltd, having the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER.

[0136] Crosslinked hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight greater than or equal to 3000 KDa. • “Hyaluronate Na HPM”

[0137] Commercial product “bio-sodium hyaluronate powder” produced by the company Sochibios, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE.

[0138] Non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 KDa to 1500 KDa.

[0139] Low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid • “Bashyal”

[0140] Commercial product “Bashyal powder” produced by the company Soliance, with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE.

[0141] Hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight ranging from 100 KDa to 300 KDa. • “Oligo HA”

[0142] Commercial product “Oligo HA” produced by the company Sochibo, with the INCI name: HYALURONIC ACID.

[0143] Hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight ranging from 5 KDa to 10 KDa.

[0144] Whether alone or in combination, these active ingredients have been used in the examples to an individual concentration ranging from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. 1- 3: Formulations evaluated

[0145] [Tables 1] Composition Placebo Content (%) Water QSP 100 Glycols 12 Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 20) 0.03 to 0.35 Preservatives 0.27

[0146] Different hyaluronic acids, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, of high and low molecular weight were tested, alone and in combination, in the formula described above.

[0147] [Tables2] Formula No. Test Composition of the evaluated formula Prod - 1 Comparative test Placébo (without hyaluronic acid) Prod - 2 Comparative test Placébo + Hyaluronate Na HPM uncrosslinked at 0.5% (high PM uncrosslinked) Prod - 3 Comparative test Placébo + Hyacross TL200 crosslinked at 0.5% (high PM crosslinked) Prod - 4 Comparative test Placébo + Bashyal at 0.3% (low PM uncrosslinked) Prod - 5 Comparative test Placébo + Hyaluronate Na HPM uncrosslinked at 0.5% + Bashyal at 0.3% Prod - 6 According to the invention Placébo + Hyacross TL 200 crosslinked 0.5% + Bashyal 0.3% Prod - 7 Comparative test Placébo + Hyaluronate Na HPM uncrosslinked at 0.5% + 01 igo HA 0.3% Prod - 8 According to the invention Placébo + Hyacross TL200 crosslinked at 0.5% + Oligo HA 0.3%

[0148] The placebo corresponds to a simplex formulation composed of water, glycols and preservatives. To obtain similar viscosities between the different tests, a A viscosifier (Carbopol Ultrez 20 = acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer neutralized to pH around 6 with sodium hydroxide) was added. The viscosifier level was adjusted in the different formulas to maintain an equivalent viscosity. Method of preparing formulas

[0149] a. Heat phase A to 80°C (Water + preservatives); b. Add carbopol ultrez 20 to phase A under deflocculation at 300 rpm until the grains disappear; c. Add a 10% sodium hydroxide solution to phase A at 500 rpm until a gel forms; d. Weigh the glycols (Glycerin / Butylene glycol / propane diol / pentylene glycol) in a capsule; e. Wet the hyaluronic acid(s) (HA) in the glycol mixture until a homogeneous paste is formed; f. Add the glycols / AH mixture obtained in step (e) to phase A obtained in step (c) at 60°C under a deflocculator at 600 rpm; g. Cool under deflocculator at 400 rpm to 30°C; h. Engine shutdown and water compensation.

[0150] 1- 4: R esults of the study on the immediate smoothing effect

[0151] The results of this study are presented in [Fig. 1].

[0152] Surprisingly, it has been observed that the particular association of certain types of hyaluronic acids makes it possible to produce a synergistic effect on the immediate smoothing effect.

[0153] In particular, the combination of a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid such as for example “Bashyal” or “Oligo HA”, with a high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyacross TL 200” makes it possible to obtain significant immediate smoothing results.

[0154] Furthermore, it has been observed that the combination of these same low molecular weight hyaluronic acids with a high molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyaluronate Na HPM” does not allow this immediate smoothing effect to be obtained.

[0155] These results therefore show that, surprisingly, the crosslinking of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid polymer is essential to obtain an immediate smoothing effect. Example 2: Study of skin hydration 2-1 Study protocol Purpose of the study

[0156] The aim of the study is to evaluate and compare the short-term moisturizing effect (6 hours and 24 hours) of one or more products by measuring the variation in the electrical capacity and impedance of the skin, using a coma meter.

[0157] The moisturizing effect of the different products was evaluated on male or female volunteers, all aged at least 18 years, and not presenting any skin disease in the area evaluated. Principle of measurement

[0158] The corneometer measures the change in electrical capacitance as a function of the water content of the skin (change in the dielectric constant of the skin). Its probe consists of two electrodes, which are used to generate an electric field on the surface of the skin. The capacitance of the electrode system and the skin is influenced by changes in the dielectric constant of the biological medium in contact with the probe. The more hydrated the skin, the higher the dielectric constant. An alternating current is applied to the electrodes. The time required to reach a given potential difference is inversely proportional to the capacitance of the system, and an increase in the dielectric constant of the stratum corneum is recorded by the corneometer as an increase in the frequency of the alternating current. Changes in capacitance are expressed in arbitrary units.

[0159] Impedance indicates the degree of hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis. The dielectric constant of the skin is related to the water content of the skin. The measurement of electrical properties is recognized as an objective method for assessing the hydration of the stratum corneum (E. Berardesca - EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods - Skin Research and Technology 1997; 3: 126-132).

[0160] The corneometer determines the skin's capacitance, Cx, which is part of the formula defining impedance:

[0161] Z = [Rx2 + (1 / 2 ir fCx)2] L2

[0162] Where: Z: impedance

[0163] Rx: resistance (resistance = 1 / conductance)

[0164] f: frequency of alternating current

[0165] Cx: electrical capacity or capacitance

[0166] Measurements are taken on the forearms. The areas are protected from friction by rings held in place by a hypoallergenic, stretchy, non-occlusive adhesive fabric (Hypafix from Smith & Nephew) between each measurement and are removed just before the 15-minute stabilization period.

[0167] Three successive measurements are carried out with the corneometer after 15 minutes of stabilization, which allows the area to be adapted to the ambient conditions of the measurement room (temperature: 22°C + / - 2°C and relative humidity: 50% + / - 10%).

[0168] There is no prior preparation of the skin. The product tested is applied by a technician before the start of the measurements, in one go, at a rate of 2 pL per cm2.

[0169] On the morning of the study (before measurements), volunteers use only their usual toiletries. No other products should be used during the study.

[0170] Evaluation criterion

[0171] Electrical capacity, or capacitance, is expressed in arbitrary units on a scale of approximately 0 to 150. The higher the value, the greater the hydration. Statistical analyses

[0172] The statistical method used is analysis of variance (ANOVA). It was assumed that the data follow the normal distribution. With ANOVA, the Student Newman-Keuls test is performed for multiple comparisons of means and determination of the similarity group.

[0173] Sample size: A sufficient number of volunteers should be included to allow the evaluation of 10 subjects.

[0174] Degree of significance: risk a less than or equal to (< or =) 5%.

[0175] Calculation methods:

[0176] - The untreated area is considered as a product.

[0177] - The factors of the analysis are: the volunteers, the time of measurement and the products.

[0178] 1- Global ANOVA, all factors combined on the raw data. The graph residual allows to detect outliers.

[0179] 2- Calculate the average values of the 3 measurements: grouping of the averages.

[0180] 3- Global ANOVA, all factors combined on the means for the validation of the grouping (comparison with the averages of 1-).

[0181] 4- ANOVA on the mean values of all products and volunteers combined at To (before application) to compare the measurement sites to To.

[0182] 5- Calculate the changes compared to the value before application: T; - To (=AT)

[0183] With:

[0184] T;: hydration at h

[0185] To: hydration of the same area at t0

[0186] 6- ANOVA on AT, all products & volunteers combined for each time of measure to compare the product at each time.

[0187] 7- Global ANOVA on AT, all factors together (without To) to compare overall the products all together. A product may not be considered in the analysis to more accurately compare other products.

[0188] 8-

[0189] a) Calculation of percentages to compare the effect of the different products in relation to the untreated area:

[0190] Only if the differences from the untreated area (or the reference) are significant.

[0191] The percentage is calculated for each volunteer:

[0192] VARi% = (((Tr t -Tr o)-(Tnt t -Tnt 0WTnt,)xl00

[0193] With:

[0194] - Tq ■ hydration of the treated at h

[0195] - Tr0: hydration of the treated to

[0196] - Tnt;: hydration of the untreated control at f

[0197] - Tnt0: hydration of the untreated control at t0

[0198] b) Calculation of the percentages of the results without the untreated area:

[0199] The percentage variation is calculated as follows from the averages:

[0200] VARi% = (Ti - To) / To* 100

[0201] With:

[0202] To: hydration at the time "before application

[0203] T; : hydration at time f

[0204] Percentages are only calculated if the differences are significant compared to the time "before application".

[0205] 9- Global ANOVA on the percentages to obtain the means in %.

[0206] 2- 2: Commercial references of the cosmetic active ingredients used in the examples

[0207] The commercial references used in this example are the same as in Example 1-2 above. 2-3: Formulations evaluated

[0208] The formulations evaluated in this example are the same as in Example 1-3 above. 2-4: Results of the study on the moisturizing effect

[0209] The results of this study are presented in [Fig. 1].

[0210] Surprisingly, it has been observed that the particular association of certain types of hyaluronic acids makes it possible to produce a synergistic effect on hydration. Hydration at 6 and 24 hours

[0211] The results show that for the placebo composition and the compositions comprising only one hyaluronic acid “Bashyal” or “Hyacross TL 200” (comparative), the measured hydration is between 13% and 22% at 6 hours and between 14% and 21% at 24 hours ([Fig.l]).

[0212] Surprisingly, the results show that for the composition comprising the combination “Bashyal” + “Hyacross TL 200” (according to the invention), the hydration is 34% at 6 hours (vs 13 to 22% for the comparatives) and 28% at 24 hours (vs 14 to 21% for the comparatives) ([Fig.l]).

[0213] The combination of a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid such as for example “Bashyal” with a high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyacross TL 200” (according to the invention) makes it possible to obtain an increase in hydration.

[0214] Furthermore, it has been observed that the combination of “Bashyal” with a high molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyaluronate Na HPM” (comparative) does not allow such an increase to be obtained. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) at 6 and 24 hours

[0215] The results show that for the placebo composition and the compositions comprising only one hyaluronic acid “Bashyal” or “Hyacross TL 200” (comparative), the measured insensible water loss is between -12% and -14% at 6 hours and between -5% and -13% at 24 hours ([Fig.l]).

[0216] Surprisingly, the results show that for the composition comprising the combination “Bashyal” + “Hyacross TL 200” (according to the invention), the insensible water loss is -21% at 6 hours and -17% at 24 hours ([Fig.l]).

[0217] The combination of a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid such as for example “Bashyal” with a high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyacross TL 200” (according to the invention) makes it possible to reduce transepidermal water loss.

[0218] Furthermore, it has been observed that the combination of “Bashyal” with a high molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid such as “Hyaluronate Na HPM” (comparative) does not allow such an effect to be obtained. Conclusion

[0219] These results therefore show that, surprisingly, in the context of an association between a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the crosslinking of the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid polymer is essential to obtain an improved moisturizing effect.

[0220] Example 3: Study on the plumping and smoothing effect of the lips 3-1 Study protocol Purpose of the study

[0221] The aim of this study was to evaluate to what extent the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention can provide a plumping and smoothing effect on the lips, the lip contour and the nasolabial area. To this end, the effects of a test formula comprising the combination of a high-weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid molecular weight and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid was evaluated on a panel of subjects. The formulas are described below. Subjects included in the study

[0222] The effects were evaluated on Caucasian female volunteers. These volunteers, or subjects, were divided into two groups depending on the formula to be tested, test formula or control formula. - Group 1: 17 volunteers, average age: 45.6 + / - 6.7 years (between 37 and 57 years). - Group 2: 15 volunteers, average age: 47.5 + / - 4.9 years (between 39 and 56 years).

[0223] Volunteers had all skin types (no selection on skin type) and were all users of lip care products. In addition, the volunteers included in this study all had: • wrinkles around the lips, • a lack of volume in the lips, and • lips that appear poorly hydrated.

[0224] Formulas evaluated to test the effect of the association of hyaluronic acids according to the invention

[0225] The formulas tested correspond to a basic cosmetic formulation allowing the cosmetic efficacy of active ingredients of interest to be evaluated. This basic formula, also called control composition, is described in Table 3.

[0226] Table 3: Basic formula also called control composition

[0227] [Tables3] Control composition Content (%) Water QSP 100 Vegetable oil 38 Hydroxystearic acid 1.2 Gelling agent (bentone) 13 Vegetable wax 5 Cellulose 2 Glycols 10 Carbopol 0.2 Preservatives 0.3

[0228] During this study, group 2 received the control formula (CTL formula) corresponding to the basic cosmetic formula alone (table 3), therefore not containing the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention.

[0229] For its part, group 1 received the test composition (formula 2HA), that is to say a basic cosmetic formula also containing the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention: • “Hyacross TL200”

[0230] Commercial product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” produced by the Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd., with the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER. Cross-linked hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight greater than or equal to 3000 KDa. • “PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER”

[0231] Commercial product “PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER” produced by the company Givaudan. Hyaluronic acid with an average molecular weight of less than 15 KDa.

[0232] Table 4: Formula 2HA also called test composition

[0233] [Tables4] Test composition (according to the invention) Content (%) Water QSP 100 Vegetable oil 38 Hydroxystearic acid 1.2 Gelling agent (bentone) 13 Vegetable wax 5 Cellulose 2 Glycols 10 Carbopol 0.2 Hyacross TL200 0.5 PRIMALHYAL ULTRAFILLER 0.3 Preservatives 0.3

[0234] The formulas evaluated (control formula or 2HA formula) were applied to the lips and lip contour twice a day, morning and evening, for the duration of the study, i.e. 28 days. 3-2: Results 3.2.1. Study 1

[0235] The plumping effect of the tested formulations (described in paragraph 2-1 above) was evaluated by a panel of experts immediately after application, then at 8 hours and 24 hours after application, and finally at the 7th and 28th days of the study.

[0236] The plumping effect was assessed by measuring the curvature of the upper lip.

[0237] The results show that the 2HA formula significantly reduces the curvature of the upper lip immediately after application. The reduction in this curvature reflects the increase in lip volume. In addition, and unlike the control formula, this effect is maintained over time since a significant effect is still observed at 8 hours and 24 hours versus a non-significant effect for the control formula). This effect is also observed at the 7th and 28th days for the 2HA formula only.

[0238] Thus, the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to act on plumping the lips from the moment of its application with a proven long-term effect. 3.2.2. Study 2 - Clinical evaluation

[0239] As part of this study, a clinical evaluation was carried out by a qualified evaluator. The effects of the tested cosmetic formulations (described in paragraph 2-1 above) were evaluated on 3 areas of the face (all including the lips). The criteria evaluated are: the appearance of the lip area (area 1), the appearance of the lip contour area (area 2), and the appearance of the wide area surrounding the lips (area 3). Areas 1, 2 and 3 are shown in [Fig.2].

[0240] [Tables5] T4S / T0 Formula 2HA Formula CTL Zone 1: Lip area Smooth appearance of lip contour ++ + Supple appearance of lips +++ NS Plump appearance of lips ++ + Lip health (pink color) +++ ++ Zone 2: Lip contour Smooth appearance of lip contour wrinkles +++ +++ Zone 3: Large area around the lips Lifted appearance of the skin +++ ++ Distance between the nose and the lips (lifting of the lips and Cupid's bow) ++ + Smooth appearance of the skin +++ ++

[0241] T4S = 4 weeks after the start of the study; T0 = at the start of the study, before the first application of the tested products, NS = Not Significant

[0242] Compared to the control formula, we note that the 2HA formula makes it possible to obtain better results for all the criteria evaluated.

[0243] These results reflect the cosmetic interest of the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention. This combination advantageously makes it possible to obtain a smoothing and plumping effect on the lips and the area surrounding them, in particular an improvement in the smooth, supple and plump appearance of the lips and an improvement in the health of the lips (pinkish color) is observed. There is also a smoothing of the wrinkles around the lips and more generally of the skin around the lips. 3- 3: Conclusions

[0244] These studies, aimed at evaluating the plumping and smoothing effect of cosmetic compositions comprising the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention, on the lips and the area of the face surrounding the lips, show that the combination of hyaluronic acids according to the invention allows the 2HA formula to be more effective than the control formula with a long-term action on smoothing, suppleness and plumping.

[0245] Example 4: Cosmetic formulations according to the invention

[0246] The compositions are prepared according to the conventional methods used in the cosmetic field. Plump face

[0247] [Tableauxô] INGREDIENTS % PURIFIED WATER QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.2700 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20 0.0700 10% SODIUM SOLUTION 0.2100 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL MB 3.0000 1.3 VEGETABLE BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.0000 PROPANEDIOL 3.0000 PENTYLENE GLYCOL VEG 1.0000 HYACROSS TL 200 (according to the invention) 0.5000 BASHYAL POWDER (according to the invention) 0.3000

[0248] Plump visage is a moisturizing and smoothing treatment for the face, ideal for application in the morning and / or evening. Applied to the skin of the face and / or neck, particularly around wrinkles and fine lines, it provides an immediate smoothing effect, reducing roughness and smoothing skin microrelief. The skin is visibly smoother, clearer, younger. Lip plump

[0249] [Tables?] INGREDIENTS % TRI CAPRAT / CAPRYLAT GLYCEROL MB 9.0000 FAT 30 SENSIVA SC 50 0.3000 PURIFIED WATER QSP 100 HYACROSS TL 200 (according to the invention) 0.2000 OLIGO HA (according to the invention) 0.3000 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL MB 10.0000 POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB 5.0000 PGL-S MB 1.0000 AQUAXYL 3.0000 D.PANTHENOL 1.0000

[0250] Lip plump is a moisturizing and plumping treatment for the lips. After application to the lips, fine lines are less visible, the lips appear fuller and plumper. The smoothing effect is immediate.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 2000 KDa or one of its salts and a low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than or equal to 300 KDa or one of its salts, said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid each being present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 3000 KDa.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid has an average molecular weight less than or equal to 200 KDa.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has the INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid is chosen from the products with INCI names: * SODIUM HYALURONATE, and * HYALURONIC ACID.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a crosslinking of 0.001% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 1%, preferably 0.1% to 0.6%.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid and said low molecular weight non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid are each present in the composition in one content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises less than 5% filler, in particular less than 2% filler, preferably less than 1% filler or even is filler-free.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of a topical composition for the skin and / or the lips, in particular in the form of a cream, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple emulsion, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, mask or a lip balm.

11. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.

12. Cosmetic process according to claim 11, characterized in that it is intended to promote the hydration of keratin materials and / or an immediate smoothing effect of keratin materials and / or promote the firmness and / or elasticity and / or density and / or volume of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and thus prevent and / or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular prevent and / or reduce a loss of firmness and / or elasticity, and / or density and / or volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or the appearance of wrinkles, in particular around the lips and / or lip lines.

13. Cosmetic process according to claim 12, characterized in that said composition is applied to healthy subjects showing signs related to aging of the skin and / or lips, in particular a loss of firmness and / or elasticity, and / or density and / or volume of the skin and / or lips, and / or wrinkles of the skin and / or on the contour of the lips and / or thin lips and / or lips with ridges.

14. Cosmetic use of at least one high molecular weight cross-linked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 2000 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 3000 KDa or one of its salts and of a low molecular weight non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than or equal to 300 KDa or one of its salts, as a combination of active ingredients to provide an immediate smoothing effect on keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

Images