COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

A novel sunscreen composition using a UV filter and emollient system addresses the challenges of high SPF, stability, and matte finish without octocrylene, homosalate, and titanium dioxide, achieving effective photoprotection with a dry feel and oil control.

FR3136372B1Active Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022010866
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-06-10
Filing Date
2022-10-20
Publication Date
2025-08-01
Estimated Expiration
2042-10-20

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic sunscreen compositions face challenges in achieving high SPF, stability, and a matte finish without using UV filters like octocrylene and homosalate, which are environmentally and health-concerning, and titanium dioxide, which causes a white film on the skin.

Method used

A novel cosmetic sunscreen composition combining a UV filter system with an emollient system, comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and an emollient system with isopropyl myristate, isononanoate, and diisopropyl sebacate.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides high SPF, a dry feel, oil control, and stability, while avoiding the drawbacks of octocrylene, homosalate, and titanium dioxide, ensuring a stable and effective photoprotection for keratinous materials.

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Abstract

COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) a UV filter system; and (b) an emollient system. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND USE OF A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising (a) a UV filter system; and (b) an emollient system. The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Photoprotection of keratinous materials, including skin and hair, is considered of great importance in order to protect against sun damage, sunburn, photoaging, as well as to reduce the risks of developing skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation. There are generally two types of UVA / UVB cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.

[0003] The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen composition is directly related to the quantity and type of UV filters contained therein. In particular, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun's rays, measured by the Protection Index (IP) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, in particular a minimal UVA protection factor, while having a satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but non-greasy feel upon application.

[0004] Among the widely used UV filters are octrocrylene and homosalate. However, concerns have been raised about the use of these UV filters in cosmetic sunscreen compositions, as these raw materials are seeing their effects on the environment studied more thoroughly, particularly with regard to biodegradation difficulties. In addition, these UV filters are also being questioned in terms of human health and aquatic organisms.

[0005] Replacing octocrylene and homosalate in a cosmetic sunscreen composition is not an easy task, as these UV filters also act as emollients in the final composition, which affects the stability of the entire composition. Attempts to compensate for the removal of these UV filters by increasing the amount of remaining UV filters in the composition have proven insufficient. Further modifications are necessary to achieve a stable composition.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need for a novel cosmetic sunscreen. without the UV filters octocrylene and homosalate, which retain good cosmetic properties such as a high SPF, which are not heavy on the skin and which can control and reduce the oiliness of the skin after their application, leaving the skin with a matte finish, which is stable.

[0007] Furthermore, it is also desirable to remove titanium dioxide from cosmetic sunscreen compositions, as this ingredient is associated with the formation of a white film on the skin, after application of the cosmetic composition.

[0008] That being said, the objective of this invention is to provide a stable cosmetic sunscreen composition without octocrylene and homosalate UV filters, preferably without titanium dioxide, with high SPF.

[0009] The inventors of the present application have surprisingly succeeded in developing such a novel cosmetic sunscreen composition by combining a UV filter system with an emollient system. Summary of the invention

[0010] The present invention relates to novel cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising

[0011] (a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyltriazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate; and

[0012] (b) an emollient system comprising isopropyl myristate, isononanoate isononyl and diisopropyl sebacate.

[0013] The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic sunscreen composition.

[0014] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] In one embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:

[0016] (a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate; and

[0017] (b) an emollient system comprising isopropyl myristate, isononanoate isononyl and diisopropyl sebacate

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the UV filter system of the present invention ranges from about 15.0 to about 31.0%, from about 17.5 to about 27.5%, from about 20.0 to about 25.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In another preferred embodiment, said UV filter system comprises from about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, from about 3.0 to about 5.5% by weight of ethylhexyl salicylate, from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, from about 3.0 to about 5.0% by weight of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, from about 3.0 to about 4.5% by weight of ethylhexyl triazone, from about 3.0 to about 6.0% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and from about 1.0 to about 3.0% by weight of methylene bis-benzotriazol tetramethylbutylphenol (and) poly-glyceryl-10 laurate, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the emollient system of the present invention ranges from about 5.0 to about 15.0%, from about 7.5 to about 12.5%, from about 9.0 to about 11.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In another preferred embodiment, said emollient system comprises from about 0.5 to about 3.0% by weight of isopropyl myristate, from about 2.0 to about 5.5% by weight of isononyl isonanoate, and from about 2.5 to about 7.5% by weight of diisopropyl sebacate, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition further comprises silica silylate, in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 2.5%, from about 0.2 to about 2.3%, from about 0.3 to about 1.5%, from about 0.5 to about 1.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0023] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, compounds, fillers, fragrances, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0024] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention has a protection factor (SPF) ranging from 30 to 99, preferably from 40 to 80, more preferably about 80. In various embodiments, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may have a protection factor of 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or 99.

[0025] In one embodiment, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may have a protection factor of 80.

[0026] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention can be used as a daily product for photoprotection of keratinous materials with a high SPF, with a dry feel, oil control and reduction, and good stability. Terms

[0027] As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with "one or more" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0028] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to infer a sub-range, etc.

[0029] The terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0030] The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

[0031] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the expression "a mixture of" also relates to "mixtures of." Throughout the disclosure, the expression "a mixture thereof" is used, after a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof." The expression "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of the elements A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0032] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0033] Other than in the working examples or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which may include + / - 10%, + / - 8%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, + / - 1%, or + / - 0.5%.

[0034] “Substituted” as used herein means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[0035] Similarly, the phrase "a salt thereof" also refers to "salts thereof." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0036] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, limiting.

[0037] All components and elements positively presented in the present disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims. In other words, the compositions of the present disclosure may be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the present disclosure.

[0038] All publications and patent applications cited herein are incorporated by reference, and for all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated as being incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure shall prevail. Silica silylate

[0039] When present in the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, silica silylate, which could also be referred to as "silica aerogel," is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. Silica aerogels are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, such as, but not limited to, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2). This type of drying helps prevent shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, C.J., and Scherer, G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0040] If present, the silica silylate (e.g., hydrophobic silica silylate particles) has a surface area per unit mass (SM) of from about 500 to about 1500 m2 / g, or alternatively about 600 to about 1200 m2 / g, or alternatively about 600 to about 800 m2 / g, and a size, expressed as volume median diameter (D[0.5]), of from about 1 to about 30 qm, or alternatively about 5 to about 25 qm, or alternatively about 5 to about 20 qm, or alternatively about 5 to about 15 qm. The surface area per unit mass can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1. The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

[0041] Particle size can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as a Malvern MasterSizer 2000 machine. The data are processed using Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles") Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0042] The particles used in the present invention, if present, may advantageously have a tapped density ranging from about 0.04 g / cm3 to about 0.10 g / cm3 or alternatively from about 0.05 g / cm3 to about 0.08 g / cm3. In the context of the present invention, this density, called tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the graduated cylinder is then placed on a Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 machine; the graduated cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured on the graduated cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).

[0043] According to one embodiment, the silica silylate particles have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of about 5 to about 60 m2 / cm3, or alternatively of about 10 to about 50 m2 / cm3, or alternatively of about 15 to about 40 m 2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM.r where r is the tapped density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0044] In some embodiments, the silica silylate particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from about 5 to about 18 mL / g, or alternatively from about 6 to about 15 mL / g, or alternatively from about 8 to about 12 mL / g. The oil absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. Wp is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. Wp corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below: An amount = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isonanoate) is then added dropwise.After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and the addition of oil continues until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated using the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in mL) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. .

[0045] In the context of the present invention, silica silylate is a "hydrophobic silica", i.e., any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, particularly dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface modified by silylation is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

[0046] Suitable examples of hydrophobic silica silylate may include, but are not limited to however, be limited to aerogels sold under the trade names VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) and VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), both available from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Michigan). VM-2260 particles have an average particle size of approximately 1,000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. VM-2270 particles have an average particle size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Another suitable example of a hydrophobic silica aerogel may include, but is not limited to, aerogels commercially available from Cabot Corporation (Billerica, Massachusetts) under the trade name Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200. Additional UV filters

[0047] In addition to the UV filters present in the UV system of the present cosmetic sunscreen composition, said composition may comprise at least one additional UV filter selected from commonly used UV filters, excluding octocrylene and Thomosalate.

[0048] According to the present invention, the concentration of T at least one additional UV filter ranges from about 15.0 to about 35.0%, from about 16.0 to about 34.0%, from about 17.0 to about 33.0%, from about 18.0 to about 32.0%, from about 19.0 to about 31.0%, from about 20.0 to about 21%, from about 20.0 to about 28.0%, from about 21.0 to about 27.0%, from about 22.0 to about 26.0%, from about 23.0 to about 25.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Suitable UV filters of the present invention could be the following:

[0050] Oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

[0051] By "oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient" is meant any organic compound for shielding UV rays, which can be entirely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in an oily phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an oily fatty phase.

[0052] Non-limiting examples of oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, particularly those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in EP669323 and US2463264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; of methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) as described in applications US5237071, US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screen polymers and screen silicones as described in patent application WO 93 / 04665; alkyl-styrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI 133981, merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04 / 006878, WO 05 / 058269 and WO 06 / 032741; and mixtures thereof, the entire contents of the patents and patent applications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.

[0053] As examples of other suitable oil-soluble sunscreen ingredients, mention may be made of those indicated below under their INCI name:

[0054] Cinnamic derivatives:

[0055] Examples of suitable cinnamic derivatives include, but are not limited to, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl me-thoxycinnamate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

[0056] Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

[0057] Examples of suitable dibenzoylmethane derivatives include, but are not limited to, isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

[0058] Salicylic derivatives:

[0059] Examples of suitable salicylic derivatives include, but are not limited to, dipropylene glycol salicylate and TEA salicylate.

[0060] Beta,beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives:

[0061] Examples of suitable beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives include, but are not limited to, etocrylene.

[0062] Benzophenone derivatives:

[0063] Examples of suitable benzophenone derivatives include, but are not limited to, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate or in admixture with octyl methoxycinnamate.

[0064] Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:

[0065] Examples of suitable benzylidenecamphor derivatives include, but are not limited to, manufactured 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, manufactured polyacry-lamidomethyl benzylidene camphor.

[0066] Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:

[0067] Examples of suitable phenylbenzotriazole derivatives include, but are not limited to, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion.

[0068] Triazine derivatives:

[0069] Examples of suitable triazine derivatives include, but are not limited to, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-is triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, the symmetrical triazine screening agents described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, Patent Application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM Inc., West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-l,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-l,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, which are included in patent applications WO / 06 / 035, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992 and WO 2006 / 034985).

[0070] Anthranilic derivatives:

[0071] An example of a suitable anthranilic derivative includes, but is not limited to, methyl anthranilate.

[0072] Imidazoline derivatives:

[0073] An example of a suitable imidazoline derivative includes, but is not limited to, ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

[0074] Benzalmalonate Derivatives:

[0075] An example of a suitable benzalmalonate derivative includes, but is not limited to, a polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for example, polysilicone-15.

[0076] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

[0077] An example of a suitable 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative includes, but is not limited to, 1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.

[0078] Benzoxazole Derivatives:

[0079] An example of a suitable benzoxazole derivative includes, but is not limited to, 2,4-bis[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl) imino-l,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The oil-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of about 15.0 to about 25.0%, about 16.0 to about 24.0%, about 17.0 to about 23.0%, about 18.0 to about 22.0%, about 19.0 to about 21.0%, about 20.0 to about 20.5%, from about 20.0 to about 22.0%, from about 20.0 to about 25.0%, and preferably from about 18.0 to about 21.0%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient

[0082] By "water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient" is meant any organic compound for shielding UV radiation, which can be entirely dissolved in molecular or miscible form in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0083] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredients useful in the invention include, for example, benzophenone-4, aminobenzoic acid (PABA), 4-bis(polyethoxy)-para-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA), benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidole tetrasulfonate (disodium bidisulizole), and tris-biphenyl triazine; derivatives and salts thereof; naphthalene bisimide derivatives such as those described in European Patent Application EPI990372 A2, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference; and cationic salts and quaternary derivatives of cinnamido amine as described in United States Patent 5,601,811, all of which is incorporated herein by reference, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, for example methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferably used.

[0085] The water-soluble organic sunscreen ingredient is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10.0% by weight, preferably in an amount of about 0.5 to about 8.0% by weight, and most preferably about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0086] In addition to the essential components described above, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, preservatives, surfactants and their mixtures.

[0087] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or deionized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The water can also include reconstituted thermal water, that is, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water.

[0088] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, compromised by the envisaged addition.

[0089] Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, styrene / acrylates copolymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] A non-limiting example of a preservative that may be used in accordance with the invention includes phenoxyethanol.

[0091] Additional suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, denatured alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Suitable surfactants may be selected, inter alia, from potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and inulin lauryl carbamate.

[0093] In various embodiments, the solvent is present in a concentration of about 15 to 100% by weight, or about 25 to about 80% by weight, or about 30 to about 70% by weight, or about 35 to about 60% by weight, or preferably about 40 to about 50% by weight, and more preferably about 50 to about 55% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the combinations and / or compositions of the present disclosure.

[0094] Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, triethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

[0095] The composition may comprise at least one dye / pigment, preferably iron oxides.

[0096] Fatty or oily substances by way of example include, but are not limited to: limit, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, stearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, neopentyl glycol diethyl hexanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0097] The composition may also comprise at least one filler, such as silica and / or cellulose.

[0098] The additional ingredients, not including solvents, may represent from 17.0 to about 21.0%, such as 18.0 to about 20.0% or such as from 18.5 to about 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0099] By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

[0100] PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0101] A non-limiting example concerning the preparation of the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be the following:

[0102] Step (A): Main tank - hot oil phase comprising oily raw materials, preservatives, vitamins and emulsifiers at a temperature ranging from about 75°C to about 80°C;

[0103] Step (B): Secondary tank - Aqueous phase at room temperature comprising aqueous raw materials;

[0104] Step (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by mixing; and

[0105] Step (D): the fillers are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (C) and mixed until homogeneous, at a temperature below approximately 30°C. Embodiments

[0106] An example of a suitable cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0107] - from about 22.0 to about 25.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate;

[0108] - from about 8.5 to about 11.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and diisopropyl sebacate;

[0109] - from about 0.5 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, of silica silylate;

[0110] - from about 30.0 to about 40.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position, of water; and

[0111] - from about 25.0 to about 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Another example of a cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention may comprise:

[0113] - from about 24.0 to about 31.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, methoxyphenyltriazine bis-ethylhexylphenol, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbu-tylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate;

[0114] - from about 7.0 to about 11.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and dii-isopropyl sebacate;

[0115] - from about 30.0 to about 45.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, water, and

[0116] - from about 25.0 to about 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com position, of additional cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof. EXAMPLES Examples 1 to 6

[0117] A suitable composition according to the state of the art is in the form of Examples 1 to 3 and suitable cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are in the form of Examples 4 to 6, as follows:

[0118] [Tables 1] Function Ingredient Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 UV filter phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.0 3.0 2.0 2.5 2.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.75 2.25 1.0 2.0 butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 4.5 3.75 4.5 4.0 5.0 ethylhexyl salicylate - 4.0 4.5 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.75 4.5 5.5 4.25 4.75 titanium dioxide 1.5 - - - - 0.75 ethylhexyl triazone 3.0 3.5 4.0 3.25 3.75 3.5 4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0 4.5 UV filter terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid 3.0 4.0 1.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 0.5 1.25 1.0 1.5 0.75 1.0 octocrylene 2.0 3.0 - - - - - homosalate 2.0 4.0 - - - - - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3.0 4.0 4.5 5.5 5.5 6.0 4.5 5.5 5.0 6.0 3.0 5.0 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate - - 1.5 2.0 0.5 1.5 1.5 2.5 1.0 2.0 methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl-butylphenol (and) polyglyceryl-10 laurate) 2.0 3.5 2.0 3.0 1.5 2.5 1.25 2.75 1.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 Emollient isopropyl myristate - - - 0.5 2.0 2.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 Isononyl isononanoate 4.0 5.0 4.0 5.5 4.5 5.5 2.0 4.0 3.5 5.0 4.0 5.5 Diisopropyl sebacate 2.0 3.0 2.5 3.0 2.5 3.5 2.5 5.0 4.5 5.5 4.5 7.5 Active compound Disodium EDTA 0.1 - - - 0.003 0.003 Triethanolamine 2.5 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 Zinc PCA - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Vitreoscilla ferment - - 0.25 0.25 - - Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate - 0.3 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 mannose - - - 0.5 0.5 0.5 hydroxyacetophenone - 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 fatty compound stearyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 silica filler 5.0 4.0 5.0 4.25 5.25 4.0 5.0 4.5 5.0 5.0 5.5 silica filler (and) titanium dioxide 5.0 - - - - - silica silylate 0.4 0.4 4.0 0.1 1.0 0.5 1.25 0.5 1.5 0.75 2.5 cellulose - 0.15 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 perfume perfume 0.5 - - 0.65 - - Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate polymer 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lauryl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer 0.2 - - - - - Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Preservative phenoxyethanol 0.7 - - - - - Silicon caprylyl methicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Solvent water QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP Glycerin 2.0 1.0 2.0 1.5 3.0 1.5 2.5 1.75 2.25 2.0 2.5 propylene glycol - - - - 1.0 1.0 pentylene glycol 2.0 2.0 3.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 1.75 2.25 1.5 2.0 caprylyl glycol 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 surfactant stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 potassium cetyl phosphate 1.0 1.0 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 poloxamer 338 0.3 - - - - - sodium methyl stearoyl taurate 0.5 0.5 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 poloxamer 338 - 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5 0,5 plant extract maltodextrin (and) Bixaorellana seed extract - - 0.25 0.25 - - vitamin niacinamide - - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 tocopherol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 , TESTS

[0119] Test 1 - Protection Index (IP)

[0120] The inventive cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 5 and Ex. 6 were tested to measure their IP according to the ISO 24444-2019 (IP) method, in two phases.

[0121] In the first phase (screen phase), the cosmetic compositions were applied to 5 subjects in order to access the approximate IP factor. The cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 obtained an average static IP of 88.2 (10.8) and an adjusted final IP of 77.4, and the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 6 obtained an average static IP of 85.9 (12.7) and an adjusted final IP of 73.2.

[0122] In phase two, only the composition of Ex. 5 was tested, on 10 subjects. The composition according to Ex. 5 obtained an average static PI of 92.0 (6.2) and an adjusted final PI of 85.8.

[0123] The results of the reference formula, tested in parallel, were integrated into the international database and presented statistical results (Z value) <1.6, showing that the results of the formulas under test are validated.

[0124] TEST 2 - UVA Protection Index (IP-UVA) in vivo

[0125] An evaluation of the screen effect of the UVA protection index was carried out with the cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 5 and Ex. 6, in a study carried out according to the ISO 24442-2011 method (UVA in vivo), with two phases - phase 1 (screen) and phase 2 (supplement).

[0126] In Phase 1, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 demonstrated an average in vivo IP-UVA of 29.0 (± 0.0), and the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 6 had an average in vivo IP-UVA of 26.7 (± 4.0).

[0127] For phase 2, only the composition according to Ex. 5 was tested with a larger group of subjects, and demonstrated an in vivo IP-UVA of 27.8 (± 1.8).

[0128] Test 3 - Comparative Test

[0129] The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention according to Ex. 4 was compared to a state-of-the-art cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1, which comprises octrocrylene and homosalate, as well as titanium dioxide.

[0130] Both compositions were tested on a group of women, aged 18 to 55, who used cosmetic sunscreen compositions daily for at least 1 year and 6 months, with oily or combination skin.

[0131] According to the women on trial, the textures of the compositions according to Ex. 4 (inventive) and Ex. 1 (state of the art) were very similar. However, the cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 4 (inventive) demonstrated better resistance to water and sweat, without ash effect, while maintaining a similar SPF profile.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising: (a) a UV filter system comprising phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and polyglyceryl-10 laurate; and (b) an emollient system comprising, based on the total weight of the composition: - from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of isopropyl myristate; - from 2.0 to 5.5% by weight of isononyl isononanoate; - from 2.5 to 7.5% by weight of diisopropyl sebacate; the composition not including octocrylene and homosalate.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the UV filter system is from 15.0 to 31.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the UV filter system comprises: - from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; - from 3.0 to 5.5% by weight of ethylhexyl salicylate; - from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; - from 3.0 to 5.0% by weight of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; - from 3.0 to 4.5% by weight of ethylhexyl triazone; - from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; - from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate; - from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol laurate and polyglyceryl-10 laurate; relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the emollient system is from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, in which it comprises in in addition to silica silylate, in the range of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises cosmetically acceptable ingredients selected from active compounds, fatty compounds, fillers, perfumes, polymers, solvents, vitamins, additional UV filters, preservatives, surfactants and mixtures thereof.