COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENTS OF KERATINOUS SUBSTANCE

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENTS OF KERATINOUS SUBSTANCE The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one skin-conditioning active agent; (b) at least one water-soluble acid; (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water, wherein the amount of (b) the water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may include hydrophobic pigments with a uniform dispersion thereof and a skin-conditioning active agent without precipitation thereof. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substance. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, for delivering the composition into the keratinous substance. ART CONTEXT

[0002] For cosmetic purposes, the surface of the skin or lips is often colored or tinted. For example, makeup cosmetic products such as foundation and lipstick are widely used to color or tint the skin, especially the skin of the face and lips. The coloring or tinting by makeup cosmetic products is temporary and can be easily removed from the skin and similarly with, for example, cleansing products. Thus, users of makeup cosmetic products need to color their skin and / or lips daily.

[0003] One of the possible options for achieving lasting colouring effects on the skin or lips is to apply colouring agents inside the skin or lips.

[0004] However, the topical application of a formulation containing coloring agents does not allow sufficient penetration of the coloring agents into the skin or lips. A thin layer of the stratum corneum of the skin or lips constitutes a major obstacle to the substances penetrating the skin or lips. Therefore, the most important factor in delivering coloring agents into the skin or lips is penetration through the stratum corneum.

[0005] The use of single-needle devices, known as tattooing devices, is well known for the deep delivery of coloring materials into the skin. US patent B-9393395 is an example of such devices. These devices are used by experts, known as tattoo artists, with caution because a single needle oscillates or vibrates at a high frequency, and skill and time are required to create the correct tattoo design using only one needle.

[0006] Document 2021 / 125067 discloses the use of a microneedle array for delivering coloring agents into the superficial layer of the skin for long-lasting skin coloring. A water-soluble dye is used as the coloring agent. Thus, in document WO 2021 / 125067, a composition comprising A water-soluble dye is used in combination with a microneedle array.

[0007] On the other hand, active skincare agents are often applied to the skin's surface. It is preferable for these active skincare agents to penetrate the skin in order to ensure cosmetic effects. However, it is difficult for active skincare agents to penetrate the skin due to the barrier effects of the stratum corneum.

[0008] Document 2019 / 230990 discloses the use of a microneedle array with microneedles containing C-glycoside, which can act as a skin-conditioning active agent to enhance the skin penetration of C-glycoside. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0009] It is important that coloring agents, which penetrate a keratinous substance such as the skin for cosmetic purposes, be uniformly dispersed within the keratinous substance, in terms of aesthetic cosmetic effects. For example, if hydrophobic pigments are used as coloring agents, uniform dispersion of the hydrophobic pigments within a keratinous substance is preferable. Therefore, in this case, the use of a composition that uniformly includes hydrophobic pigments is preferable.

[0010] On the other hand, to have hybrid cosmetic effects of colouring and skin care, it is possible to consider the use of a composition which includes not only colouring agents such as hydrophobic pigments, but also active skin care agents.

[0011] If a skin-care active agent is included in a composition, it is preferable that the composition include water to dissolve the skin-care active agent. Without water, the skin-care active agent may not dissolve sufficiently in the composition and may precipitate, for example, in the form of crystals.

[0012] However, if a skin care active agent is included with hydrophobic pigments in the same composition, it is difficult to increase the amount of water in the composition because a higher amount of water can negatively affect the uniform dispersion of the hydrophobic pigments in the composition.

[0013] The present invention aims to provide a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, in which the composition can include at least one hydrophobic pigment in uniform dispersion and at least one active skin care agent without precipitation thereof.

[0014] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

[0015] (a) at least one active skin care agent;

[0016] (b) at least one water-soluble acid;

[0017] (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

[0018] (d) at least one polyol;

[0019] (e) water,

[0020] in which

[0021] the quantity of (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0022] the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The active skin care agent may be water-soluble, preferably selected from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0024] The quantity of the (a) active skin care agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The (b) water-soluble acid can be chosen from organic acids, preferably hydroxy acids, and more preferably lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and a mixture of these.

[0026] The quantity of the (b) water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The (c) hydrophobic pigment may have at least one hydrophobic coating; preferably selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxides and mixtures thereof, with at least one hydrophobic coating; and more preferably selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxides treated with triacyl monoalkyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

[0028] The quantity of the (c) hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] The (d) polyol can be chosen from diols, preferably alkylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture of these.

[0030] The quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil, preferably chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils.

[0033] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps:

[0034] application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0035] application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0036] The device used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be or include a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are able to penetrate the keratinous substance, thus delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0037] The present invention also relates to a device for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

[0038] the composition according to the present invention; and

[0039] at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0040] The device in the necessary according to the present invention may be or include a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance, thus delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0041] The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition in a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, in order to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin-care effects. Brief description of the drawings

[0042] [Fig.1] Fig.1 shows a schematic view of a device which is preferably used for the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0043] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, in which the composition can include at least one hydrophobic pigment in uniform dispersion and at least one non-precipitating skin-care active agent.

[0044] Thus, the composition according to the present invention can uniformly include at least one hydrophobic pigment as well as at least one active skin care agent.

[0045] The uniform dispersion of hydrophobic pigments in the composition according to the present invention can provide uniform coloring effects. The "uniform" dispersion of hydrophobic pigments here means that the hydrophobic pigments do not aggregate to form clumps.

[0046] The composition according to the present invention can offer lasting coloring effects when used in combination with a device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can also offer uniform skin care effects, since the active skin care agent(s) can be dissolved in the composition without any precipitation, reflecting the uniform distribution of the active skin care agent in the composition.

[0048] Thus, the present invention can offer a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with uniform coloring and care effects.

[0049] The present invention can also provide a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with long-lasting coloring effects and / or enhanced skin care effects such as improved whitening effects.

[0050] One aspect of the present invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

[0051] (a) at least one active skin care agent;

[0052] (b) at least one water-soluble acid;

[0053] (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

[0054] (d) at least one polyol;

[0055] (e) water,

[0056] in which

[0057] the quantity of (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0058] the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps:

[0060] application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0061] application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0062] Another aspect of the present invention is a device for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

[0063] the composition according to the present invention; and

[0064] at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0065] Another aspect of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, in order to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin-care effects.

[0066] According to certain aspects of the present invention, a composition according to the present invention is used in combination with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, to deliver the composition into a keratinous substance. The device can deliver the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the microneedles of the microneedle sheet can perforate the surface of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips to create fine holes or passages through which the composition according to the present invention, comprising at least one skin-care active agent and at least one hydrophobic pigment, can pass into the skin or lips. Thus, the skin-care active agent and the hydrophobic pigments can penetrate the skin or lips through the holes or fine passages so that they can pass through the stratum corneum and / or reach the base of the stratum corneum. Furthermore, the skin-care active agent and the hydrophobic pigment can pass through the layer cornea to reach one of the lower layers of the epidermis, such as a granular layer, a spinous layer and a basal layer.

[0068] The hydrophobic pigment can remain for a long time in a keratinous substance such as skin and lips. This could produce lasting coloring effects.

[0069] On the other hand, the active skin care agent can offer enhanced skin care effects, such as better whitening effects, because it can reach the skin directly without the barrier of the stratum corneum.

[0070] Since microneedles do not cause pain, the cosmetic process and the necessary equipment according to the present invention can offer painless cosmetic treatments.

[0071] Furthermore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be carried out in a relatively short time.

[0072] Thus, the present invention is convenient for cosmetic or non-therapeutic treatments. For example, the present invention can be used as a non-invasive means of concealing skin imperfections such as brown spots and pores for an extended period, for example, from a few days to a few weeks.

[0073] The composition, cosmetic process, use and similar properties according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0074] [Composition]

[0075] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0076] (a) at least one active skin care agent;

[0077] (b) at least one water-soluble acid;

[0078] (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

[0079] (d) at least one polyol;

[0080] (e) water,

[0081] in which

[0082] the quantity of (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0083] the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The composition can be used as a pretreatment composition for a keratinous substance, before applying a device, such as a microneedle device, to the keratinous substance to deliver the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance, such as under the stratum corneum of the skin.

[0085] Thus, the first aspect of the present invention may be a composition for use in cosmetic treatments using a device to deliver the composition into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance, for example, by applying the device to the superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0086] It is preferable that the composition to be used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention be in the form of a liquid at room temperature (for example, 25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), which has a viscosity of less than 1000 cP, preferably less than 500 cP, and more preferably less than 200 cP.

[0087] (Skin care active agent)

[0088] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one skin-care active agent. Only one type of (a) skin-care active agent may be used, but two or more different types of (a) skin-care active agents may be used in combination.

[0089] It is preferable that the (a) skin care active agent has a logP value between -4.5 and 4.5, preferably between -4.0 and 4.0, and more preferably between -3.5 and 3.5. It may be preferable that the logP value of the (a) skin care active agent be between -1.0 and 1.0, and more preferably between -0.5 and 0.5.

[0090] A log P value is the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. Log P values ​​are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of a given compound in octan-l-ol and water. Log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages, which determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. For example, the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Protection Agency can be mentioned.

[0091] The values ​​can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67 software; they can also be obtained from QSAR Exploration: Hydrophobic, Electronic and Sterile Constants (ACS Professional Reference Book, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0092] The (a) skin care active agent may be in the form of a salt. Salts of the (a) skin care active agent include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base.

[0093] It is preferable that the (a) skin care active agent be soluble in water and preferably have a water solubility of 0.1 g / mL or more, in particular 0.5 g / mL or more, at a pH of 7 at 25 °C.

[0094] It is preferable to choose the (a) active skin care agent from among anti-aging agents such as anti-wrinkle agents; depigmenting agents such as whitening agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0095] As (a) active skin care agent, mention may be made of vitamin B3 and its derivatives.

[0096] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula: — R

[0097] in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0098] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0099] The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0100] Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0101] As (a) active skin care agent, mention may also be made of tranexamic acid and its derivatives.

[0102] Examples of tranexamic acid derivatives include tranexamic acid dimers (such as trans-4-(trans-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyl)aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid hydrochloric acid), tranexamic acid and hydroquinone esters (such as trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylate), tranexamic acid and gentisic acid esters (such as 2-(trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyloxy)-5-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts), and tranexamic amides (such as trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane methylamide). carboxylic acid and its salts, and trans-4-(p-methoxymethylmethylmethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid and its salts), and similar compounds.

[0103] It is preferable that the (a) skin-care active agent be water-soluble, more preferably chosen from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0104] The quantity of the (a) active skin care agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Furthermore, the quantity of (a) skin care active agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The quantity of (a) skin care active agent in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] (Water-soluble acid)

[0108] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble acid. Only one type of (b) water-soluble acid may be used, but two or more different types of (b) water-soluble acids may be used in combination.

[0109] The (b) water-soluble acid may have a solubility in water at pH 7 below 25 °C of 10 g / 100 mL or more, preferably 20 g / 100 mL or more, and preferably 30 g / 100 mL or more.

[0110] The (b) water-soluble acid can be an organic or inorganic acid.

[0111] The organic acid may be chosen from carboxylic acids, amino acids, hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

[0112] The carboxylic acid can be chosen from monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The monocarboxylic acid may be chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid and a mixture of these.

[0114] The dicarboxylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid and a mixture of these.

[0115] The acidic amino acid may be chosen from the group consisting of glutamic acid, aspartic acid and a mixture of these.

[0116] The hydroxy acid can be chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, gluconic acid and a mixture of these.

[0117] The inorganic acid may be hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and a mixture of these.

[0118] The (b) water-soluble acid may not be a fatty acid comprising 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0119] It is preferable to choose the (b) water-soluble acid from among the organic acids, more preferably the hydroxy acids, and even more preferably lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and a mixture of these.

[0120] The quantity of (b) water-soluble acid in the composition according to the present invention is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] The amount of (b) water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] The quantity of the (b) water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] (Hydrophobic pigment)

[0125] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment. A single hydrophobic pigment or a combination of several different hydrophobic pigments may be used.

[0126] In the present invention, the term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored particles, inorganic or organic of any form, which are insoluble in a physiologically acceptable medium and are intended to color a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

[0127] It is preferable that the size of (c) hydrophobic pigment be greater than 100 nm. For the purposes of the present invention, the "size" of a particle means a volume-average diameter. The volume-average diameter can be determined by diffraction of light using, for example, a laser particle size analyzer, such as a Malvern Mastersizer, in which particles to be evaluated are dispersed in a liquid medium, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate. According to a mode of In implementation of the present invention, the size of the hydrophobic pigment can range from 100 nm to 25 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 pm.

[0128] It is preferable to choose (c) the hydrophobic pigment from among hydrophobic coated pigments. A "hydrophobic coated pigment" means any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" means any compound soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" means any compound insoluble in water.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are chosen from inorganic and organic pigments.

[0130] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that corresponds to the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of inorganic pigments include metallic oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue, as well as metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. These inorganic pigments may, in particular, be selected from among the metallic oxides.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic pigments, in particular the metal oxides, present in the composition to be used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention are selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxide. It may be preferable for titanium dioxide, as an inorganic pigment, to have a particle size equal to or greater than 0.1 µm, more preferably 0.2 µm or more, and even more preferably 0.3 µm or more.

[0132] The term "organic pigment" means any pigment corresponding to the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine compounds, metal complex type compounds, and isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalate compounds.

[0133] The organic pigment(s) may be selected, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the color index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the color index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments coded in the index of color under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments coded in the color index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments coded in the color index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0134] Pigment coating:

[0135] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.

[0136] For the purposes of the present invention, the "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent, absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment. Thus, hydrophobic pigments can be surface-treated pigments.

[0137] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.

[0138] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0139] According to one embodiment, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0140] The hydrophobic pigment may also include at least one coating comprising at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example, at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound may be selected from a metal hydroxide such as aluminum hydroxide and metal chlorides such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.

[0141] The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0142] The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of solid pigment particles by simple mixing with agitation of the particles and said surface treatment agent, possibly with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the composition to be used for the present invention.

[0143] The coating can be achieved, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a Covalent bonding between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in document US-B-4 578 266.

[0144] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0145] Lipophilic or hydrophobic compound:

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from silicon-based surface treatment agents; fluorinated surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface treatment agents; metallic soaps; fatty acids; N-acylaminated acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; monoalkyl triacyl titanate such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof, as explained below.

[0147] Silicon-based surface treatment agent;

[0148] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a silicon-based compound, i.e. a silicon-based surface treatment agent.

[0149] The silicon-based surface treatment agent may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate (co)polymers, silicone resins and mixtures thereof, as explained below.

[0150] Organopolysiloxanes are defined as a compound having a structure comprising alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms.

[0151] i) Organopolysiloxanes

[0152] It is preferable to choose organopolysiloxanes from among non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.

[0153] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0154] The alkoxy group can be represented by the radical RO- so that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl radicals, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0155] One method for preparing pigments surface-treated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists of dispersing the pigments in a solvent organic and then the silicone compound is added. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds can be created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the silicon-based surface treatment agent can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, specially selected from polydimethylsiloxanes.

[0157] In a particular form, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, such as the commercial product sold under the name KF9908® by Shin-Etsu, may be used.

[0158] ii) Silane derivatives

[0159] It is preferable to choose silane derivatives from among alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes.

[0160] Silanes with alkoxy functionality are particularly described by Witucki in "A Silane Primer, Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxy Silanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

[0161] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0162] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes bearing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino and imino is described in patent application JP-A-H07-196946. They are also suitable for processing pigments.

[0163] iii) (Co)Silicon-acrylate polymers

[0164] Grafted silicone-acrylic (po)polymers having a silicone skeleton as described in US patents Nos. 5,725,882, 5,209,924, 4,972,037, 4,981,903, 4,981,902 and 5,468,477 and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0,388,582 may be used.

[0165] Other silicone-acrylate (co)polymers may be silicone (co)polymers comprising in their structure the motif of formula (I) below:

[0166] wherein the radicals Gi, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a Cr-Cio alkyl group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a residue polymer resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer that can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer between 0 and 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

[0167] Preferably, the above formula motif (I) has at least one of the following characteristics, and even more preferably all of them:

[0168] - the Gi radicals denote an alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;

[0169] - n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent radical in Ci-C3 of preferably a propylene radical;

[0170] - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; and

[0171] - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of au minus one monomer of the type alkyl (meth)acrylate (in Ci-CiO), preferably such as isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.

[0172] Examples of silicone (co)polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type linking chain motif, mixed polymer motifs of the poly(meth)acrylic and poly(meth)acrylate type.

[0173] Other examples of silicone (co)polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate polymer motifs are grafted via a thiopropylene-type linking chain motif.

[0174] iv) Silicone resins

[0175] The silicone-based surface treatment agent can be selected from silicone resins.

[0176] The term “resin” refers to a three-dimensional structure.

[0177] Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

[0178] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer motifs it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of motif.

[0179] The letter M represents the monofunctional motif of formula (CH3)3SiOi2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this motif.

[0180] The letter D denotes a difunctional motif (CH3)2SiO2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0181] The letter T represents a trifunctional motif of formula (CH3)SiO3 / 2.

[0182] In the motifs M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by an R group other than a methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon-based radical (in particular alkyl) containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or a hydroxyl group.

[0183] Finally, the letter Q designates a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 motif in which the silicon atom can be bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0184] Various resins with different properties can be obtained from these different motifs, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or motifs), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.

[0185] Here are some examples of these silicone resins that can be mentioned:

[0186] - siloxysilicates, which can be trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3XSiXO]xX(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ patterns) in which x and y are integers between 50 and 80;

[0187] - polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiO3 / 2)x (T motifs) where x is greater than 100 and of which at least one of the methyl radicals can be replaced by an R group as defined above; and

[0188] - polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in none of the methyl groups in which are substituted by another group. These polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US-B-5 246 694.

[0189] Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those sold:

[0190] - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK®, such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating CH3SiO3 / 2 motifs (T motifs), which may also comprise up to 1 wt% of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 (D motifs) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000; and

[0191] - by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L® which is composed of patterns T of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and contains Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprises 98% T motifs and 2% D dimethyl motifs and contains Si-OH end groups, or also under the reference KR-251, comprising 88% T motifs and 12% D dimethyl motifs and contains Si-OH end groups.

[0192] Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, possibly in powder form. These resins are sold under the references SRI 000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230®, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803®, Wacker 803® and 804®, by the Wacker Corporation Corporation.

[0193] It is also possible to mention trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J® by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749® and DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.

[0194] As examples of commercial references for pigments treated with a silicone compound, we can mention: red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

[0195] Fluorinated surface treatment agent;

[0196] The pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a compound of fluoro nature, i.e. a fluorinated surface treatment agent.

[0197] Fluorinated surface treatment agents may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

[0198] The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" refers to an alkyl radical in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0199] Perfluoropolyethers are notably described in patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade name Fomblin® by the company Montefluos.

[0200] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in patent application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl diethanolamine phosphates sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® may be used.

[0201] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluoro aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluoro organic hydrocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

[0202] Among the perfluoroalkanes, we can mention the range of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0203] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and the perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), we can mention perfluorodecalin sold under the name of Flutec PP5 GMP® by the company Rhodia, perfluoro(methyldecalin) and the perfluoro(alkylcyclohexanes in C3-C5) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0204] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, we can mention the derivatives of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and the hydrogenated derivatives of perfluorophenanthrene such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0205] Among the perfluoroarenes, we can mention the derivatives of perfluoronaphthalene, for example perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-l-naphthalene.

[0206] Examples of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorinated compound include:

[0207] - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the Daito Kasei company;

[0208] - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by Daito Kasei;

[0209] - black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL100® by Daito Kasei;

[0210] - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by Daito Kasei;

[0211] - yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference Yellow iron oxide BF-25-3® by Toshiki company;

[0212] - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and

[0213] - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under reference T 9506® by Warner-Jenkinson.

[0214] Fluorosilicone surface treatment agent;

[0215] The pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a fluorosilicone compound, i.e. a fluorosilicone surface treatment agent.

[0216] The fluorosilicone compound may be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialcoxysilanes.

[0217] Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0218] Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones can be represented by the following formula (II):

[0219] (II) in which:

[0220] - R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

[0221] - Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0222] - m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably from 20 to 100; and

[0223] - n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably from 1 to 100.

[0224] By way of examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a compound fluorosilicone, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

[0225] Other lipophilic surfactants;

[0226] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from:

[0227] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; metallic soaps that may be specifically mentioned include fatty acid metallic soaps containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and, in particular, those containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of the metallic soap may, in particular, be zinc or magnesium. Metallic soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, and zinc stearate, as well as mixtures thereof;

[0228] ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid;

[0229] iii) N-acylamino acids or their salts, which may comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, an N-acylamino acid derivative may, in particular, be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate. This is, for example, the NAI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;

[0230] iv) lecithin and its derivatives, such as hydrogenated lecithin, for example HLC surface treatment sold by LCW;

[0231] (v) Monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacyl titanate, also called monoalkyl titanate, may be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, where R is an alkyl group and R' is an acyl group, which may be the same or different. In some embodiments of monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is a C1.5 alkyl group, in particular a C1.4 alkyl group, and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or a derivative of acrylic acid, for example methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid. The acyl groups in particular are derived from a C6-3 fatty acid, more particularly from a C12-24 fatty acid, and even more particularly from a C6-2 fatty acid. These fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, or oleic acid. The acyl groups of these triacyl titanates may be identical or different. The preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate, see publication of US patent application No. 2005 / 0019284 (especially paragraphs

[0038] -

[0052] ).According to another preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl (ITT) titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate, or isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate. Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl (ITT) titanate, also known as isopropyl titanium triisostearate (INCI name: Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate). The pigment treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate. The pigment treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate.A pigment treated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate can be treated solely with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate, or with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent like polydimethylsiloxane. For example, a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). A pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate can be treated solely with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent, such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent like polydimethylsiloxane.Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade names BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI177891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-12® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-12® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BRO-12® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo; .

[0232] vi) isostearyl sebacate;

[0233] vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or synthetic polar waxes;

[0234] viii) fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

[0235] ix) phospholipids; and

[0236] x) their mixtures.

[0237] The waxes mentioned above may be those generally used in cosmetics, as defined below.

[0238] These may include hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated waxes, possibly comprising ester or hydroxyl groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0239] The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included among polar waxes.

[0240] In particular, polar waxes have an average Hansen solubility parameter Δa at 25 °C, such that Δa>0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and even better Δa>1 (J / cm3)1 / 2:

[0241] in which ôp and ôh are, respectively, the polar contributions and the contributions of the specific interaction types to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0242] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0243] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0244] - ôh characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0245] Solubility parameters are calculated using HSPiP v4.1 software.

[0246] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0247] A polar wax is notably formed from molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N and P).

[0248] Non-limiting examples of these polar waxes that may be mentioned include natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax and montan wax.

[0249] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from N-acylaminated acids or their salts, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate, silicone surfactants, natural vegetable or animal waxes, hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

[0250] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylaminated acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0251] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, hydrophobic coated pigments selected from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei, will be used.

[0252] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, hydrophobic coated pigments chosen from titanium dioxides and iron dioxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) will be used; reference may be made to those sold under the trade references BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI177891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.

[0253] The quantity of the (c) hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] The quantity of the (c) hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 45% by weight, and more preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] (Polyol)

[0257] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

[0258] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0259] The (d) polyol may be a C2-Ci2> polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0260] The (d)-polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (d)-polyol may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0261] The (d) polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

[0262] It is preferable to choose the (d) polyol from among the diols, preferably alkylylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof

[0263] The amount of the (d) polyol(s) may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] Thus, the (d) polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0266] (Water)

[0267] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0268] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0269] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] Furthermore, the quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 12% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0271] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 12% by weight, and more preferably between 5% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0272] (Oil)

[0273] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0274] The term "oil" here means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0275] The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0276] The (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0277] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0278] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane, for example.

[0279] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0280] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0281] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0282] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicapryl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0283] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0284] Reference may be made in particular to: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0285] As ester oils, sugar esters and C6-C30 fatty acid diesters, and preferably C2-C22-H, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0286] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0287] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched C6-C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably C12-C22* If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0288] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0289] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and mixed palmitostearate esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0290] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0291] One example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0292] By way of examples of preferable ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate / caprate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isonanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0293] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0294] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and their compounds.

[0295] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0296] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0297] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0298] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly from:

[0299] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold notably under the name "Volatile Silicone® 7207" by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "Volatile Silicone® 7158" by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "Silsoft 1217" by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: ps DD ------ DAD — CK j CH.. with D": """ ® with D*: If O II CHA CgH1?

[0300] Reference may also be made to mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0301] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 °C in accordance with ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0302] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0303] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:

[0304] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0305] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0306] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0307] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0308] Reference may also be made to polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0309] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0310] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0311] in which

[0312] Ri at Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, linear, cyclic or branched in Ci-C30, preferably hydrocarbon radicals in CrCi2, and more preferably hydrocarbon radicals in Ci-C6, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0313] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0314] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0315] The products sold under the following names are examples that may be mentioned:

[0316] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0317] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0318] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0319] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0320] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0321] As a phenyl silicone oil, it is preferable to use phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the formula above).

[0322] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0323] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0324] - lower linear or branched alkanes, optionally cyclic in CC6- Ci6. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0325] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam# and squalane.

[0326] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0327] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols containing 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

[0328] The fatty alcohol may conform to the R-OH structure in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0329] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0330] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0331] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and preferably linear or branched Ci2-C2o alcohols, saturated.

[0332] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from among all linear or branched saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among linear or branched saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols may be used more preferentially. Linear or branched saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used more preferentially. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0333] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0334] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] It is also preferable to choose the (f) oil from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0336] Preferably, the (f) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (in CrCi2) (for example, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated alcohol-type oils (in Ci2-C30) such as octylodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0337] It is preferable to choose the (f) oil from among the polar oils, and more preferably from among the ester oils.

[0338] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0339] Furthermore, the quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0340] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0341] (Optional ingredients)

[0342] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, in particular, surfactants or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, perfumes and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0343] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the compound(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0344] (Preparation)

[0345] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared, for example, by mixing the essential ingredients above and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary.

[0346] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means, such as a mixer, can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0347] [Cosmetic process]

[0348] The cosmetic process according to the present invention for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips comprises the steps:

[0349] application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0350] application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0351] The above device is not limited as long as it can deliver the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance, in particular through the stratum corneum of the skin or lips.

[0352] The device can apply energy, for example light, sound, heat and vibration, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

[0353] Preferably, the device is or comprises a microneedle sheet including a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating a keratinous substance, thereby delivering the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance. The device and the microneedle sheet will be described later.

[0354] The step of applying the composition according to the present invention to a keratinous substance can be carried out using any applicator such as a brush.

[0355] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention be applied to the keratinous substance in combination with at least one porous sheet such as a woven or non-woven fabric, in order to obtain good contact of the composition with the keratinous substance and good cosmetic effects on the desired site of the keratinous substance.

[0356] A porous sheet can absorb and retain the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, the application of a porous sheet can facilitate contact of the composition with the keratinous substance, which can contribute to good cosmetic effects on the keratinous substance.

[0357] The type of combination described above is not limited. Thus, a porous sheet can be applied to the keratinous substance before applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. It is also possible to apply a porous sheet to the keratinous substance after applying the composition to the keratinous substance.

[0358] It is preferable that the application step of the device on a keratinous substance be performed for a desired area on the keratinous substance. For example, it is preferable that the application site of the device be able to move on the surface of the keratinous substance, provided that the device is capable of delivering the composition according to the present invention to the desired area on the keratinous substance.

[0359] It is preferable to apply the device to the keratinous substance without a drying step of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous substance. In other words, it is preferable that the device be applied to the keratinous substance so that the device is able to deliver the composition into the keratinous substance before the composition is dry or when the keratinous substance is wet.

[0360] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance.

[0361] After the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance, the composition according to the present invention can be removed from the surface of the keratinous substance.

[0362] It is preferable that the cosmetic process according to the present invention further include the step of maintaining or removing the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous substance after the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance and before the step of removing the composition according to the present invention from the surface of the keratinous substance, because the composition can effectively penetrate the keratinous substance via, for example, the holes formed on and in the keratinous substance by micro-needles.

[0363] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be intended for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, preferably skin, and more preferably facial skin.

[0364] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be used to improve the aesthetic appearance of a keratinous substance, for example, by coloring and / or caring for (for example, by whitening) the keratinous substance such as skin.

[0365] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide a keratinous substance with uniform color and conditioning effects, as well as long-lasting coloring and enhanced conditioning effects. Therefore, for example, the makeup effects provided by the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be maintained for a long period, for example, on a face even if sebum or sweat is present or if rain falls on the face.

[0366] However, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not correspond to skin tattooing, which is a semi-permanent coloring, because skin tattooing is accompanied by pain. Furthermore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention colors a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as the skin and lips, and consequently, the color provided by the cosmetic process according to the present invention can only last, for example, a few weeks, which is not a semi-permanent coloring.

[0367] [Necessary and Use]

[0368] The present invention also relates to a device for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

[0369] the composition according to the present invention; and

[0370] at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0371] The composition according to the present invention can be contained in any container such as a container commonly used for cosmetic purposes.

[0372] The necessary equipment can preferably be used to carry out the cosmetic process in accordance with the present invention.

[0373] The above device is not limited as long as it can deliver the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance, in particular through the stratum corneum of the skin or lips.

[0374] The device can apply energy, for example light, sound, heat and vibration, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

[0375] Preferably the device is or comprises a microneedle sheet including a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet so that the microneedles are capable of penetrating a keratinous substance, thereby delivering the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0376] Below, an embodiment of a microneedle sheet and a device with the microneedle sheet is described.

[0377] {Micro-needle sheet]

[0378] The microneedle sheet may comprise a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet.

[0379] A device with the microneedle sheet, to be used for the present invention, can be a cosmetic device, preferably a cosmetic device for a keratinous substance, and more preferably a cosmetic device for the skin, in particular the skin of the face, as well as the lips.

[0380] (Micro-needles)

[0381] The microneedle sheet may include several microneedles.

[0382] The microneedles are present on the surface of a substrate sheet. The microneedles may be present on 50% or more, preferably 70% or more, and preferably 90% or more of the surface of the substrate sheet.

[0383] It is preferable that the micro-needles be present on one of the surfaces of a substrate sheet.

[0384] It is preferable that the microneedles of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention be designed to penetrate or enter the stratum corneum of the skin, in particular the skin of the face, as well as the lips.

[0385] A microneedle can be of any size and shape suitable for perforating the stratum corneum. It may be preferable for microneedles to be designed to pierce and penetrate the stratum corneum. Microneedles can create openings or passages in the stratum corneum.

[0386] If necessary, the height of the microneedles can be adjusted to allow penetration of the epidermis and / or dermis of the skin, preferably of the epidermis, and more preferably of one of the layers of the epidermis.

[0387] The shape of the microneedles is not limited as long as the shape is a "needle." It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the microneedles for the present invention can take any reasonable shape, including, but not limited to, pyramids, cones, rods, and / or pillars. As such, the microneedles may have the same diameter at the tip as at the base or may be tapered in the direction from base to tip.

[0388] For example, the shape of the microneedle may be a triangular pyramid, a square pyramid, or a pentagonal pyramid. The microneedle may also be cylindrical, preferably with a point that can be formed by cutting the cylinder diagonally. The cross-section of the microneedle may take any geometric shape, including circular, triangular, square, rectangular, polyhedral, regular or irregular, and the like. In one embodiment of the present invention, a group of microneedles may take the form of hollow microcapillaries. However, for the present invention, solid (non-hollow) microneedles may be preferable.

[0389] Reference is therefore made to "microneedles" as the type of microprotrusion or microprojection used. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that in many cases, the same inventive principles apply to the use of other microprotrusions or microprojections for penetrating the skin. Other microprotrusions or microprojections may include, for example, microblades as described in US Patent No. 6,219,574 and Canadian Patent Application No. 2,226,718 and edged microneedles as described in US Patent No. 6,652,478.

[0390] The height or length of the microneedle of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention can be from 10 to 500 microns, preferably from 30 to 300 microns, and more preferably from 50 to 150 microns.

[0391] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the micro-needle is in the form of a cone.

[0392] The cone may include a distal end such as a point and a base. The base may be circular or oval in shape.

[0393] The height or length of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may be between 10 and 500 microns, preferably between 30 and 300 microns, and more preferably between 50 and 150 microns.

[0394] The base of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may have a diameter or width of 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns. If the base of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is oval or elliptical in shape, the length of the major axis or the width of the oval may be 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns.

[0395] The microneedle may have a side ratio (length / width at the base) of at least about 3:1, at least about 2:1 or at least about 1:1. The ratio (height of the cone) / (diameter of the base of the cone) of the microneedle may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and preferably 2.0 or more.

[0396] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the micro-needle is pyramid-shaped, such as a triangular pyramid and a square pyramid.

[0397] The pyramid may include a distal end such as a point and a base. The shape of the base may be triangular or square.

[0398] The height or length of the pyramid of the microneedle of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may be between 10 and 500 microns, preferably between 30 and 300 microns, and more preferably between 50 and 150 microns.

[0399] The base of the microneedle pyramid of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may have a width of 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns. If the base of the microneedle pyramid of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is triangular or square, the side length or the width of the triangle or square may be 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns.

[0400] The microneedle may have a side ratio (length / width at the base) of at least about 3:1, at least about 2:1 or at least about 1:1. The ratio (height of the pyramid) / (width of the base of the pyramid) of the microneedle may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and preferably 2.0 or more.

[0401] It may be preferable that the microneedle be able to penetrate into a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, to a depth of 200 microns or less, preferably 180 microns or less, and more preferably 160 microns or less.

[0402] A very narrow spacing of microneedles may not provide the microneedles with sufficient surface area, so the microneedles do not penetrate the skin. On the other hand, a spacing that is too wide may also lead to a problem whereby an individual microneedle may not have sufficient pressure to penetration. Thus, it may be preferable for a microneedle array pitch to be between 400 and 700 microns, and more preferably between 400 and 500 microns.

[0403] The number of microneedles and the spacing between microneedles depend on certain factors such as the desired color pattern and the width of a microneedle. For example, if a color pattern with a width of 0.5 microns is desired, the use of a microneedle sheet with a (2x2) microneedle array with a spacing of 0.5 mm may be the most appropriate.

[0404] In one embodiment of the present invention, the density of microneedles can be from 100 to 2000 microneedles / cm2, preferably 200 to 1000 microneedles / cm2, and even more preferably 200 to 500 microneedles / cm2.

[0405] It is preferable that the microneedles cannot be dissolved.

[0406] The microneedle "not dissolving" means that the microneedle cannot break down or disintegrate inside a keratinous substance such as skin and lips for example, a natural moisturizing factor or external moisture.

[0407] It is preferable that the microneedles not be soluble in water.

[0408] Microneedles can be made of organic or inorganic materials. Examples of organic materials include synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polypropylene, and photosensitive resins, biodegradable plastics, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Examples of inorganic materials include metals, such as stainless steel, nonmetals such as silicon, glass, and ceramics, and mixtures thereof. Any other material suitable for implantation in the skin or body may also be used.

[0409] It is preferable that microneedles be sterile or sterilized before use. It is preferable that microneedles be used only once and therefore be disposable.

[0410] It is preferable that the microneedles be composed of inorganic materials, preferably metals or non-metals, and even more silicon (in particular, monocrystalline silicon).

[0411] It is also preferable that the microneedles be solid (not hollow).

[0412] The microneedles themselves can be any color. However, it may be preferable for the microneedles not to include any coloring agent intended to color a keratinous substance.

[0413] (Substrate sheet)

[0414] The microneedle sheet may include a substrate sheet on which the microneedles are present or placed.

[0415] The backing sheet and microneedles can be separated or integrated.

[0416] For example, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may comprise at least one common material. Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may be a single element comprising at least one common material. Preferably, the single element may be prepared using the same material.

[0417] On the other hand, the substrate sheet may be different from or separate from the microneedles. For example, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may be made of different materials. In this case, the substrate sheet may be chosen, for example, from masks, wipes, patches, and, in general, all types of porous substrate sheets. Preferably, these substrate sheets have an oblong structure, i.e., a thickness less than the dimensions of the plane in which they are defined.

[0418] The substrate sheet can be cut to take the form of a stamp, a disc, a mask, a towel, a glove, a pre-cut roll or any other shape suitable for cosmetic use.

[0419] (Preparation)

[0420] There are no limitations as to the manner in which the microneedle sheet for use in the present invention can be prepared. It is possible to prepare the microneedle sheet for use in the present invention using conventional technologies such as molding, 3D printing, metalworking, and the like.

[0421] The shape of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is not limited and can be any such as the shape of the lips or a shape suitable for application under the eyes, depending on the target of application of the microneedle sheet.

[0422] {Device}

[0423] The microneedle sheet can be applied, as a device, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips so that the microneedles are able to penetrate the keratinous substance.

[0424] It is preferable that the microneedles be able to penetrate the keratinous substrate repeatedly.

[0425] The method of performing repeated microneedle penetrations into a keratinous substance is not limited. For example, repeated penetrations can be performed by tapping several times with the fingers on the back surface of the substrate sheet of the microneedle sheet so that the microneedles on the front surface of the substrate sheet can repeatedly penetrate the keratinous substance.

[0426] In addition, it is preferable to perform repeated microneedle penetrations using vibrations towards a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

[0427] For example, as shown in [Fig. 1], a sheet of microneedles 1 can be connected to an oscillator 2 that can produce vibrations in the direction of the surface of a keratinous substance, corresponding to the up and down direction in [Fig. 1]. The type of oscillator 2 is not limited as long as it can produce vibrations. For example, oscillator 2 can be made of a piezoelectric element. Of course, any other actuator that can move repeatedly, preferably vibrate, towards a keratinous substance can be used instead of oscillator 2.

[0428] In [Fig.1], the microneedle sheet 1 can move up and down according to the vibrations caused by the oscillator 2. Therefore, the microneedles on the microneedle sheet 1 can repeatedly penetrate a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

[0429] It is preferable that the oscillator 2 be connected to a head that can serve as a receiver for the microneedle sheet 1, and that the substrate sheet of the microneedle sheet 1 be attached to the head. Thus, the vibrations caused by the oscillator 2 can be transmitted to the head. Then, the microneedle sheet 1 can also vibrate via the head.

[0430] It is preferable to use a device comprising a vibration system for the microneedle sheet 1. For example, the device may include the oscillator 2 and the head which is connected to the oscillator 2, as well as a battery, such as a dry cell battery, which can drive the oscillator 2 and a control means for controlling the frequency of the vibrations caused by the oscillator 2. By way of example, a device disclosed in document WO 2011 / 115602, may be used as the above device.

[0431] When using the above device, the microneedle sheet 1 can be mounted on the oscillator head 2 and can be applied to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips so that the microneedles of the microneedle sheet 1 can repeatedly penetrate the keratinous substance.

[0432] The frequency of vibration or tapping is not limited. For example, the frequency may be between 1,000 and 10,000 per minute, preferably between 1,000 and 8,000 per minute, and more preferably between 3,000 and 6,000 per minute.

[0433] It may be preferable to regulate the pressure used to penetrate the microneedles into a keratinous substance. The pressure may depend on certain factors such as the type of microneedles and the type of staining.

[0434] Tapping or vibrating the microneedles allows for continuous and stable skin perforation and can reduce the force required to drive the microneedle into the keratinous substance. This can also produce a massaging effect on the treated area of ​​the keratinous substance, allowing for better diffusion or dispersion of the hydrophobic pigment(s) within the keratinous substance.

[0435] The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, in order to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin-care effects.

[0436] More specifically, the use according to the present invention may include

[0437] the first application on a keratinous substance whose composition conforms to the present invention; and

[0438] the second application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet so that the microneedles are able to penetrate the keratinous substance, in order to provide a keratinous substance such as skin or lips with uniform color and skin care effects.

[0439] It is preferable that the microneedles be able to penetrate the keratinous substrate repeatedly. The repetitions can be based on vibration or tapping of the microneedle foil.

[0440] Another aspect of the use according to the present invention may be the composition according to the present invention, for use in the uniform coloring and / or bleaching of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips in combination with a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet where the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance, preferably with repetitions, and more preferably with repetitions based on vibration or tapping of the microneedle sheet.

[0441] According to the above requirements and uses of the present invention, the microneedles of a microneedle sheet can deliver hydrophobic pigment(s) and / or active skin-conditioning agent(s) into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloration and skin-conditioning effects. Furthermore, according to the above requirements and uses of the present invention, they can provide a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with long-lasting colouring effects and / or enhanced skin care effects such as improved whitening effects.

[0442] EXAMPLES

[0443] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the present invention. [Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3]

[0444] [Preparation]

[0445] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as active substances.

[0446] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 2 Comp. Ex. 3 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 Tranexamic Acid 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Dipropylene glycol q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 Titanium dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Isopropyl titanium triisostearate 27 27 27 27 Iron oxides (and) Isopropyl titanium triisostearate 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 Citric acid 1 - 1 5 Water 8 8 15 8 Pigment dispersion Good Good Bad Bad Crystallization Good Bad Good Good

[0447] [Evaluations]

[0448] (Pigment dispersion)

[0449] The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 immediately after preparation were observed visually using a polarized optical microscope and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0450] Good: No pigment aggregation was observed.

[0451] Bad: Pigment aggregation was observed.

[0452] The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0453] (Crystallization)

[0454] The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 immediately after preparation were observed visually using a polarized optical microscope and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0455] Good: No crystals were observed.

[0456] Bad: A crystal was observed.

[0457] The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0458] (Summary)

[0459] In the composition according to example 1, the hydrophobic pigments were uniformly dispersed and the active skin care agent was dissolved without precipitation of crystals.

[0460] Thus, the composition according to Example 1 can offer uniform coloring and skin care effects, particularly when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with a device enabling the composition to be delivered into the superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

[0461] In the composition according to comparative example 1, which does not include water-soluble acid, the hydrophobic pigments were dispersed uniformly, but the skin-care active agent caused them to form crystals, meaning that the skin-care active agent could not be dissolved uniformly.

[0462] In the composition according to comparative example 2, which includes a relatively large amount of water, the hydrophobic pigments could not be dispersed uniformly, while the active skin care agent was dissolved without precipitation of crystals.

[0463] In the composition according to comparative example 3, which includes a relatively large amount of water-soluble acid, the hydrophobic pigments could not be dispersed uniformly, while the active skin-care agent was dissolved without crystal precipitation.

[0464] Thus, the compositions according to comparative examples 1-3 cannot offer uniform coloring and care effects, particularly when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with a device enabling the composition to be delivered into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one skin-care active agent; (b) at least one water-soluble acid selected from lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and a mixture thereof; (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment selected from mixtures of iron oxides and titanium dioxides, with at least one hydrophobic coating; (d) at least one polyol; (e) water, wherein the amount of (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the skin care active agent is water-soluble, preferably selected from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (c) hydrophobic pigment is treated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (d) polyol is selected from diols, preferably alkylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one oil, preferably selected from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils.

6. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps of: applying to the keratinous material the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5; and application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

7. A cosmetic process according to claim 6, wherein the device comprises a microneedle sheet including a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance, thereby delivering the composition into the superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

8. Necessary for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising: the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5; and at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

9. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, in order to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin-care effects.

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