Process for treating keratinous materials using a compound resulting from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate and a crosslinking agent

FR3142893B1Active Publication Date: 2026-08-28LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022013272
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-12-13
Publication Date
2026-08-28
Estimated Expiration
2042-12-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for keratin materials, such as skin, lips, and eyelashes, fail to provide a non-sticky, glossy, and persistent deposit that is resistant to water and fats, while also offering shine and transparency.

Method used

A process involving the application of a compound resulting from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate, along with a crosslinking agent, to keratin materials, optionally with cosmetic active ingredients, to create a persistent and resistant deposit.

Benefits of technology

The process results in a non-sticky, glossy, and persistent deposit on keratin materials that is resistant to water, sebum, and fats, while providing shine and transparency.

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Abstract

Title: Process for treating keratinous materials using a compound from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate, and a crosslinking agent. The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratinous materials, and especially to that of skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows. It aims to provide a process applying to keratinous materials in one or more steps i) at least one compound of formula (I) from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate (ACAC) and ii) at least one crosslinking agent. The invention also relates to a composition comprising ingredients i) and ii) as well as a kit comprising i) and ii).
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Description

Description Title of the invention: A process for treating keratinous materials using a compound resulting from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate and a crosslinking agent

[0001] — The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratinous materials, and in particular those related to skincare and / or makeup and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows. Its aim is to offer a process implementing on keratinous materials in one or more steps i) at least a compound of formula (I) resulting from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate (ACAC) and ii) at least one crosslinking agent. The invention also relates to compositions comprising ingredients i) and ii) and a kit comprising i) and ii).

[0002] — Cosmetic products conventionally require the implementation of one or several film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratinous materials, and in particular meeting detailed expectations below.

[0003] — Thus, in the field of skin and lip makeup, it is particularly duly expected that the deposit formed does not transfer upon contact with fingers or the clothes.

[0004] It must also exhibit good resistance to contact with water, particularly rain or during showering, or even from perspiration and sebum, or even at contact with food fats, especially cooking oils, when this A deposit forms on the lips. Furthermore, this deposit must be comfortable, even bright.

[0005] — To achieve this, it is used in makeup products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows or lipsticks, and more specifically in their organic phases, particularly oily ones, dispersions of particles of Nanoscale polymer, as a film-forming agent. Thus, document EP 749 '747 proposes using polymer dispersions in hydrocarbon oils acrylics stabilized with dibloc polystyrene copolymers / copoly(ethylene-propylene). Document FR 1 362 795 describes, for its part, the use of dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles in hydrocarbon oils. As for document WO 2010 / 046229, it proposes dis- persions in isododecane of acrylic polymers stabilized by sta- polymers bilious.

[0006] … Furthermore, US patent 2006 / 0079599 describes a tissue adhesive based on medical polymers, including polyvinyl alcohol polymers with ACAC groups associated with polyamines in hydrogel form. This document does not describe the use of poly(thi)ol ACAC associated with crosslinking agents and possibly cosmetic active ingredients for application to keratin materials to create a non-sticky, low-transfer, glossy, comfortable, and long-lasting deposit on said materials. There remains a need for cosmetic compositions intended for application to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows that provide a non-sticky deposit that transfers little or not at all, is shiny, comfortable, and long-lasting. There also remains a need for compositions that are resistant to water and grease, particularly sebum. There also remains a need for compositions that provide qualities of brilliance and transparency. The present invention is specifically designed to meet all or part of these needs. These problems are solved by implementing a process for treating keratinous materials by applying the following to said materials: 1) at least one compound of formula (I) resulting from the condensation of poly(thi)ol and acetoacetate (ACAC) as well as its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, and solvates such as hydrates: [Chem. 1]: _ 'oO Le) FOX} rê b 5 Formula (I) in which: R' represents a versatile hydrocarbon radical in C> to C,4, particularly in C3 to C, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, R! being further: a) possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups OH, amine -N(R)2 with R representing a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, carboxy -C(O)-OH, a vinyl group, and / or b) possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, carbonyl -C(O)-, amine -N(R'), or their combinations such as ester -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, urethane -N(R')-C(O)-O- or -OC(O)-N(R')-, urea -N(R')-(CO)-N(R')-, or carbonate -OC(O)-O-, where R° represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by at least one hydroxyl group (OH), or possibly substituted by -XC(O)-C(R,(R,)-C(O)-R? preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom, a (C,-C,)alkyl group; R? represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C, at C, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or tert-butyl, more preferably methyl; Rs and RP, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C,-C4,)alkyl group, preferably hydrogen; X is a heteroatom or group chosen from O, S, N(R') or , -S-CH, - C(0O)-O-, -OC(O)-CH--S-, -OC(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(0)-O-, N(R')-C(O)-N(R”)-, preferably X represents O; n denotes an integer from 2 to 10, particularly from 3 to 8; and ii) at least one crosslinking agent; and iii) possibly at least one cosmetic active ingredient. The inventors have thus found, surprisingly, that the application of ingredients i), ii) and possibly iii) to keratinous materials provides a residual effect on the keratinous materials treated with this combination, particularly with regard to liquid fats such as oils and water. For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated: By "cosmetic active ingredient": we mean an organic or organosilicon compound, or a mineral compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition to have an effect on keratinous materials, whether that effect is immediate or resulting from repeated applications. Examples of assets In cosmetics, we can mention colored or non-colored, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds. such as optical brighteners, or UVA and / or UVB filters, anti- active ingredients ages or intended to provide a benefit to the skin such as active ingredients having an action on the barrier function, deodorant actives, anti- actives perspirants, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, hy- agents Draining agents, sebum-regulating agents, agents designed to combat effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal agents, perfumes, and coloring materials such as direct dyes or pigments, of pigments are preferred. Preferably, cosmetic actives are chosen from a) coloring materials chosen from pigments, direct colorants, and their mixtures, b) care actives for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures. For the purposes of this invention, "fatty substance" means a compound organic insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); furthermore, fats are soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as halogenated solvents like chloroform, dichloromethane, lower alcohols like ethanol, or aromatic solvents like benzene or toluene. "(Hetero)aryl" means aryl or heteroaryl groups; "(Hetero)cycloalkyl" means cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups. The "aryl" or "heteroaryl" radicals, or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical, can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom, chosen from: a C,-C4 (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl radical, preferably C,-C4; a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; a hydroxy group; a C,-Cz alkoxy radical; a Cz-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical: an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in C,-C5, C,-Cs, preferably in C;-C4; an acylamino radical (-NR-COR”) in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C,-Cz and the radical R° is an alkyl radical in C,-C; ; a carbamoyl radical ((R),N-CO-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C,-C4; an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'SO;-NR-) in which the R radical re- presents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C,-Cz and the R°_re- radical presents an alkyl radical in C,-C,, a phenyl radical; an aminosulfonyl radical ((R):N-SO--) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a C,-C alkyl radical; ; a carboxylic radical in acidic or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted); a cyano group (CN); a polyhalogeno(C,-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF;); The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom chosen from the following groups: hydroxy, C,-C4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy, C>-C4, alkylcarbonylamino ((RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R° is a hydrogen atom, a C;-C alkyl radical, and the radical R is a Cy-C, amino alkyl radical substituted by one or two identical or different C,-C, alkyl groups; alkylcarbonyloxy ((RCO-O-) in which the radical R is a C,-C, amino alkyl radical substituted by one or two identical or different C,-C alkyl groups; : alkcoxycarbonyl ((RO-CO-) in which the radical R is a C,-C,, amino alkyl radical substituted by one or two identical or different C,-C4 alkyl groups; a cyclic radical, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl or heteroaryl radical, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups; A hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it contains one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds; an "aryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic hydrocarbon group, condensed or not, comprising 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferentially the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl; a "heteroaryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or not, comprising 5 to 14 links, 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopy-razolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzo-triazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazo-pyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenooxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyl-triazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl; A "cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" radical is a non-aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing 5 to 14 carbon atoms, and which may have 1 to several insa- turations, preferably the cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group; a "heterocyclic" or "heterocycloalkyl" radical is a non-aromatic mono- or polycyclic cyclic radical, condensed or not, containing 3 to 9 links, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is selected from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane; an "alkyl" radical is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, particularly in C,-C, preferably in C,-C; An "alkoxy" radical is an alkyl-oxy radical in which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in C,-C; preferably in C1. a "(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" radical designates an alkyl radical in C,-C5, preferably in C,-C, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals, preferably substituted by 1 to 4 hydroxy groups, more particularly between 1 and 3; A "sugar" radical is a monosaccharide or disaccharide radical. Examples of sugar radicals include: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, or lactose; by "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula C,(H,O0), with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and solvates such as hydrates; By "disaccharide" we mean a di-osidic sugar which is a compound consisting of two oses linked together by O-osidic bonds said compounds being made up of two monosaccharides (also called mono-osidics) as defined above said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the mono-osidic units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in the anomer "(alpha) or B®(beta), each osidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and its solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more specifically, these are polymers formed from two sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[C,(H2O),)]z- or - [(CH:O),]z-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, and y an integer that represents x - 1; By "polysaccharide" we mean a poly-osidic sugar which is a polymer consisting of several oses linked together by O-osidic bonds said polymers being made up of monosaccharide units (also called mono-osidics) as defined above said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the mono-osidic units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in (alpha) or B@(beta) anomer, each osidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides;more particularly refers to polymers formed from a certain number of sugars (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[C «(H:O),)]u- Or -[(CH,O),]u-, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x = 6, and y an integer which represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly inclusively between 3 and 3000, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferably between 10 and 2300, particularly inclusively between 15 and 1000, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferably between 25 and 200: ; by "salt of organic or mineral acid", more particularly means a) addition salts with a particular organic or mineral acid selected from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid HSO, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O);OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O);OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; vii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; viii) of phosphoric acid H;PO; ; ix) of triflic acid CF,SO;H and x) of tetrafluoroboric acid HBF, ;xi) of carboxylic organic acids R°-C(O)-OH (?z) formula (T'z) in which R° represents a (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl, (hetero)aryl(C,-Ca)alkyl such as benzyl, or (C,-C,o)alkyl said alkyl group being optionally substituted preferably by one or more hydroxy groups, amino radicals, or carboxy groups, R° preferably designating a (C,-Cs)alkyl group optionally substituted by 1, 2 or 3 hydroxy groups, or more preferably carboxy groups monocarboxylic acids of formula (T'z) are chosen from acetic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from acetic acid and lactic acid; and polycarboxylic acids are; chosen from tartaric acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof; and xii) amino acids having more carboxylic acid radicals than amino groups such as gamma-carboxyglutamic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, in particular gamma-carboxyglutamic acid; or b) addition salts with an organic or mineral base such as hydroxides of alkali metals, alkali-o-meter metals, carbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, bicarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, addition salts with so-called basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, addition salts with amines possibly hydroxylated; An "anionic counterion" is an anion or anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including C,-C, alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O),O- such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O):O- such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O- such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) arylsulfates: Ar-OS(O)O- such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy-sulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O- such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS(O):O-, xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate. The "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched C,-C alcohols, linear or branched such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol; By "chromophore" we mean a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound capable of absorbing in the UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength λ, between 250 and 800 nm; Preferably the chromophore is colored, i.e., it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, chromophores appear colored to the eye; particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ulmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag "Dies, General Survey", § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color); A "UV-A filter" is a chromophore made from a compound that filters (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. We can distinguish between short-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm) and long-wave UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm). By "UV-B filter" we mean a chromophore derived from a compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet UV-B rays at a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm. By "anhydrous" we mean a quantity of less than 5% by weight of water, preferably- ideally less than 3% water by weight, better less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition in question C1, C2, C3 or C4 even more preferentially the composition is free of water. The terms "coloring agent" and "coloring matter" are equivalent; Unless otherwise specified, the bounds delimiting the extent of a range of values ​​are included within that range of values. Unless otherwise stated, the quantities indicated are expressed as mass percentages. Process for treating keratinous materials The first object of the invention is a one- or multi-step process applied to keratinous materials, particularly skin: 1) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above and below; 11) at least one crosslinking agent as defined below; and iii) possibly at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined above. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process of the invention implements the simultaneous application of ingredients i), ii), and possibly iii). According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the process comprises at least 2 steps in which ingredients i), and ii) and optionally iii), (the latter ingredient being able to be found together with ingredient i) and / or with ingredient(s) ii)) are applied in separate, successive steps to the keratinous materials. According to a particular embodiment, ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratinous materials, then ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratinous materials, it being understood that ingredient(s) iii) when present may be applied together with i) and / or ii). According to another particular embodiment, ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratinous materials, then ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratinous materials, it being understood that ingredient(s) iii) when present may be applied together with i) and / or ii). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a process for making up the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, preferably making up the skin and lips. According to another embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a skin care process. According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials of the invention implementing ingredients i), ii) and possibly iii), is a treatment for skin care. According to another aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials of the invention using ingredients i), ii) and possibly iii), is a process for making up the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows. According to one embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials involves: a composition, called "Cl", comprising 1) at least one compound of formula (D or (Ia) as defined above and below and possibly iii) at minus one cosmetic active ingredient as defined above and below; of preferably the Cl composition does not include a crosslinking agent; a composition, called "C2", comprising 1) at least one compound of formula (D or (Ia) as defined above and below and ii) at least one agent re- ticulant as defined below and possibly iii) at least one asset cosmetics as defined previously and below; a composition, called "C3", comprising 1) at least one compound of formula (D or (Ia) as defined above and below, ii) at least one agent re- iii) ticulant as defined below and iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as defined previously; and / or a “C4” composition comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent such as defined below and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as defined above and below; preferably the C4 composition does not does not include compound of formula (I) or (Ia); a “C5” composition comprising iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as defined above and below; preferably composition C5 does not does not include i) a compound of formula (I) nor ii) a crosslinking agent such as defined below; it being understood that: the process uses together or separately i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined above and below and ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined below; and Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 and CS can be anhydrous, aqueous such that hydroalcoholic products and / or include one or more fatty substances (iv) including one or more preferably volatile oils as defined below After. According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials, and in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or The eyebrows of the invention implements a composition, referred to as "CI", comprising i) as defined above and below and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active as defined below, in particular chosen from a) coloring agents such as pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, b) actives for the care of keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures, and in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment. According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials and in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows of the invention implements a composition, called "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above and below and ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined below and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active as defined above. According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials and in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows of the invention implements a composition, called "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined below and iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined above. According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials and in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows of the invention implements a composition called "C1" and a composition called "C4", said composition "C1" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (D) as defined above and below and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active as defined above, and said composition "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined below and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active as defined above. According to another variant of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) i) and possibly iii) are applied together (i.e., simultaneously) to the keratinous materials in a first step, and then in a subsequent step the ingredient(s) ii) and possibly iii) are applied to said materials. According to a particular embodiment of the process, in the first step, composition "C1" is applied to the keratinous materials, and then a composition "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined above is applied to said materials. According to yet another variant of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) ii) and optionally iii) is / are applied to the keratinous materials, then the ingredient(s) i) and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined above are applied to said materials. In particular, composition C4 is applied to the keratinous materials and then composition C1 is applied. The Cl, C2, C3, C4 and / or CS compositions of the process of the invention which comprise at least one fat, in particular at least one oil and water, may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion. The C1, C2, C3, C4 and / or CS compositions of the process according to the invention can therefore be applied directly as such to the target keratinous materials or even be formed directly on the surface of these keratinous materials. According to the invention, three modes of implementation are distinguished, called "1-step application mode", "2-step application mode" and "3-step application mode". According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in one step by applying to the keratinous materials the composition C2 or C3 as defined above. The term "one-step application method" refers to the direct application to the target keratinous materials of a single composition conforming to the invention, namely composition C2 or C3. After application of composition C2 or C3, a durable and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The resulting deposit is also resistant to cooking oils, water, sebum, and friction. According to another embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in two steps. The term "2-step application method" refers to the successive application, on the target keratinous material, of two different compositions, for example C1 and C4, or C2 and C4, or C3 and C4. Preferably C1 then C4, C2 then C4, or C3 then C4. According to another embodiment, the process of the invention is carried out in 3 steps. The term "3-step application method" refers to the sequential application of three distinct compositions, C1 to CS. According to this application method, one example involves the successive application to keratinous materials of: a) a composition C1, then B) a composition C4, then y) a composition C5, preferably C1 then C4 or CS then C4. Another option involves the sequential application to keratinous materials of: a) a composition, for example C4, and b) a composition C1 or C2, and y) a composition C5, preferably with composition C4 being applied before composition C1. In 2 or 3 step application methods, the composition applied first, for example C1, is conventionally referred to as the "base coat" and the composition(s) superimposed on it are generally referred to as the "top coat". After applying the different compositions CI to C5, a persistent and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The resulting deposit is also resistant to ali- oils. comments, water and shampoos. According to a particular method of embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratinous materials. According to a particular embodiment, the keratinous materials are dried after application of compositions C1 to CS, in particular after application of each different composition. According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a method of skin makeup, in particular of the lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, comprising a step of application on the skin or said lips or eyelashes or eyebrows, of a C2 or C3 composition, in particular containing at least one coloring material as defined above and more particularly at least one pigment. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of applying makeup to keratinous materials, in particular skin, especially lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least the sequential application: - of a C1 composition as defined previously; then - of a C4 composition as defined previously; It is understood that compositions C1 and / or C4 contain at least one coloring matter as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition C1 comprises at least one pigment. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of applying makeup to keratinous materials, in particular skin, especially lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least the sequential application: - of a C1 composition as defined previously; then - of a C4 composition as defined previously; then - of a CS composition as defined previously; It is understood that compositions C1 and / or C4 and / or C5 contain at least one colorant as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition C5 comprises at least one pigment. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of applying makeup to keratinous materials, in particular skin, especially lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least the sequential application: of a C2 or C3 composition as defined above; and of a C4 composition as defined above; provided that compositions C2 or C3 contain at least iii) a colouring material as defined below, and / or composition C4 contains at least one colouring material as defined below, preferably composition C2 or C3 includes at least one pigment. i) Compound of formula (I) The first ingredient(s) 1) of the process of the invention is / are chosen from among the compounds of formula (I) as defined above. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the ingredient(s) i) is / are chosen from those of formula (la) as well as their optical isomers, geometric isomers, their salts, and their solvates such as hydrates: [Chem. 2]: (there) T © Èo 3 A 4 (0 Formula (Ia) in which: R! is such as defined previously, particularly represents a radical po- lyvalent hydrocarbon in C, to C,4, particularly in C--C,,, of preference in C4, -C,,, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, R! being further: a) possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups OH, and / or b) possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, -N(R'), preferably interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, in which R° is as defined in formula (I); R? is such as defined previously, preferably R” represents a group (C, -Cs)alkyl, linear or branched, preferably a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or t-butyl, preferably methyl; and n being such as defined previously, preferably n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 8. According to one embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that re- represents R! represents a versatile hydrocarbon radical in C; to C, linear or branched, unsaturated monocyclic or bicyclic, preferably monocyclic, and aromatic such as phenyl. According to another embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that R! represents a Cs to Cy2 saturated monocyclic or bicyclic hydrocarbon polyvalent radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, -N(R')-, in which R° represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms. Preferably, R! represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide motif, in particular a disaccharide, on which n hydroxyl groups have been substituted by n -OC(O)-CH,-C(O)-R? groups, with R° as defined above and n as defined above. Suitable monosaccharides according to the invention include, but are not limited to, ribose, glucose, mannose, galactose, fructose, sorbose. According to one embodiment, the disaccharides are selected from cellobiose, maltose, lactose, raffinose, sucrose, trehalose, melibiulose, melibiose, mannobiose, kojibiose, nigerose, isomaltose, rutinose, rutinulose, xylobiose According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that R! represents a versatile acyclic hydrocarbon radical in C; to C,., preferably in C;-C,,, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n denotes an integer from 2 to 8, more particularly n denotes an integer from 3 to 6, more particularly from 3 to 5. According to one embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n equals 2. According to another embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n equals 3. According to another embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n equals 4. According to another embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n equals 5. According to yet another embodiment, the compounds of formula (I) and (Ia) are such that n equals 6. In one variant of the invention, the compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined above is a mixture of (poly)acetoacetylated compounds of different structures. More specifically, the compound(s) of formula (I) and (la) are chosen from the following compounds, as well as their optical isomers, their salts, and solvates such as hydrates: [Table 1] 5 %$ Î î Ë Ë À ; se a Bu A he ua it | (compound) | Chemical Name Chemical Structure CAS No. (3-oxo-1,1-01,7-heptanediyi) ester? At | 700865-73-2 of butanoic acid THE ANUS ei (2) 3-oxo-t.1{1,8- > ® octanediyl) ester. to At The 88 0e em LÉ Lee |e2036-20-0 of butanoic acid pbs ae Se Se Y Ÿ | 5 Eat THE decanediyl ester | 501426-98-8 | of butancic acid Î $ È to in which R1, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH group; it being understood that at least two R1 radicals represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH, preferably at least three R1 radicals represent -C(O)-CH 2-C(O)-CH, Preferably the compounds chosen from (18), (21), (41) and (44) and better (21), (41) and (44). The compound(s) of formula (I) or (a) as defined above are preferably present in a mass ratio of 0.2% to 100%, particularly 0.5% to 60%, and more particularly 5% to 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition C1, C2, or C3 containing them. In particular, the crosslinking agent(s) and the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) are preferably present in a mass ratio of 7% to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them. The compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) may be obtained by (Poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of dicarbonyl reagent with a nucleophilic reagent R'(XH), comprising n equivalents of nucleophilic -XH functions according to the following scheme: [Chem 3]: È U4 FT ÔÈ 29003 Rx ü ST UX RU me ni LE, RE 1 To i ROM $. l ue ser n°7 hr | gê ea St d ' far LS 5 Diagram in which: R!, R?, Ré, RP and n are such as defined for the compound of formula (I) and ; R° represents a hydrogen atom, a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, or an electrofuge group such as CHalz, or Hal; C- SO, - as in triflate, with Hal, identical or different, representing an atom halogen; X' represents an oxygen atom, or sulfur, preferably O. These (poly)condensation methods are known to those skilled in the art; examples include "From rigid and flexible foams to elastomers via Michael addition chemistry", Polymer, 106, 128-139, (2016), "Dynamic Curing Agents for Amine-Hardened Epoxy Vitrimers with Short (Re)processing Times", Macromolecules, 53(7), 2485-2495 (2020), "Super photo-base initiated organic-inorganic hybrid coatings by plural-cure mechanisms", Progress in Organic Coatings, 127, 222-230 (2019) or patent application PL159100: Method for manufacturing acetylacetate esters. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R'(XH) is selected from the acyclic polyols R'(OH), in particular selected from glycerol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, trimethylolethane, pentamethylene glycol, trimethylpentanediol, pentyl glycol, isosorbide, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, hexamethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,2-propanediol; 1,3-propanediol; 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol; 2,4-butanediol, 3,4-butanediol; 1,4-Pentanediol; 1,5-pentanediol, 2,2,4-Trimethyl-1,3-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,10-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, hexyleneglycol, isoprene glycol. In one variant, R'(XH) is selected from the cyclic polyols R'(OH), in particular selected from among the monosaccharides and disaccharides, as defined above, alone or in mixtures. Preferably R'(XH), is chosen from among the polyols R'(OH), alone or in mixtures including trimethylolethane, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, glycerol, glucose, sucrose and sorbitol. According to another variant R(XH), is chosen from among the diamines R''(NH,), notably hydroxyalkylated aliphatic diamines such as o,o”-bis(diethanolaminomethyl)-p-nonylphenol, N,N,N,N"-tetra(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine (Quadrol L, available from BASF) and N,N,N,N-tetra(2-hydroxyethyl)ethylenediamine, and mixtures thereof. According to another advantageous embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of propylenedioxy carbonyl reagent with a polyamine nucleophilic reagent R'(NH₂), comprising n equivalents of -NH₂) nucleophilic functions, according to the following scheme: [Chem. 4]: has pr + UP { oO ÔO UŸ Rè is gr "9 + R'uren n, ve; os 4 | 07 S07 SR | marPr cream L so : | IQ + R'rbA 3 À RE PCR | 2 PR ErDRX LR# H;, Diagram in which: R'!, R?, Re, and n are such as defined for the compound of formula (I) R!-NH, is notably chosen from among ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, Cadaverine, hexamethylenediamine, 1,2-diaminopropane, 1,2-Diaminocyclohexane, phenylenediamine; and RP' and R°', whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C,-C,)alkyl group. This type of synthesis process according to scheme 2 is known to those skilled in the art; for example, one can cite "Acetoacetylation with 2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-1,3-dioxin-4-one: a convenient alternative to diketene”, Journal of Organic Chemistry, S0(14), 2431-5, (1985) or “Synthesis of new Biginelli poly-condensates: renewable materials with tunable high glass transition temperatures”, Polymer International, 70(5), 506-513 (2021). According to another advantageous variant, the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of diketene reagent with a nucleophilic reagent R'(X), comprising n equivalents of nucleophilic functions -XH according to the following scheme: [Chem.5] oO ôÈ R'(XH}, = ; “Yerrereeereaczcacretecccccencocrcocrer n + | peser -nH,0 pd T4 QUE Diagram in which: R!, and n are such that defined for the compound of formula (I) X' represents an oxygen atom, or a sulfur atom, or N(R') with R°=H. This type of process is known to those skilled in the art. Examples include "Acetoacetamides, 2-hydroximinoacetoacetamides, and 2,3-bis(hydroximino)-butyramides”, Journal fur Praktische Chemie (Leipzig), 323(2), 337-44, (1981) or Angewandte Makromolekulare Chemie, 9, 96-105, (1969). ii) Cross-linking agent The process of the invention employs ii) one or more crosslinking agents. For the purposes of the invention, the term "crosslinking agent," also referred to as R, designates a compound capable of forming a crosslink with at least one ACAC functional group of the compound of formula (I) or (Ia): at least one covalent bond, at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and / or at least one coordination link, and thus crosslink the compound of formula (I) or (Ia). Preferably, the term crosslinking agent designates a compound capable of forming at least one covalent bond with an ACAC functional group of compounds of formula (I) or (Ia). For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "crosslinking agent" and "crosslinking agent" are understood to be equivalent. Compositions C2, C3, and C4 contain at least one crosslinking agent. The compositions of the invention may comprise an oily phase, an aqueous phase, or may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion. Composition C4 may be an aqueous composition. According to one aspect, the process of the invention implements a composition called "C3", in particular cosmetic for keratinous materials, and in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for care, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent and iii) at least one cosmetic active as defined above, and in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment. The crosslinking agent(s) as defined above are preferably present in a mass ratio of 0.2% to 60%, particularly 0.5% to 40%, and more particularly 5% to 40% relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. In particular, the crosslinking agent(s) and the compound(s) of formula (I) or (La) are preferably present in a mass ratio of 7% to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them. More specifically, the crosslinking agent(s) R suitable for the invention can be chosen from compounds with amine, thiol, acrylate and / or carbonyl functional groups, such as a ketone or aldehyde functional group. A crosslinking agent R can also refer to a metal alkoxide. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, and / or metal alkoxide compounds, (and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol and (poly)acrylate compounds and mixtures thereof. (Poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds are defined as compounds having at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (such as a ketone or aldehyde) or acrylate function respectively. A. (Poly)amine compounds According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine compounds. The (poly)amine compound can in particular be chosen from polyamine compounds having several primary and / or secondary amine groups or from amino alkoxysilanes, and more particularly from amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds, and their mixtures. The (poly)amine compound may be a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, including a non-polymeric compound; they may be acyclic or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, Si(R'), N(R'), preferably O, Si(R'), or their combinations such as -Si(R'),-O- or -O-Si(R'), with R° identical or different, represents a (C1-Cz)alkyl group such as methyl, and R°' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cz)alkyl group, preferably hydrogen. By "non-polymer compound" we mean a compound that is not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers. Examples of (poly)amine compounds include N- methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexy 1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methyl bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, 1,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamines (respectively priamineTradeMark 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine, i.e., contain a single primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH). The (poly)amine compound(s) may be chosen from among the amino alkoxysilanes, in particular those of formula R°,Si(OR'2),(R3), in which: - R', is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C,-C hydrocarbon chain substituted by a group chosen from among the primary amine groups NH; or secondary -N(H)R with R representing a C,-C, alkyl, aryl, or benzyl group substituted by an amino group or by a C,-C aminoalkyl group; R°, which may be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group C(O), R°, being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom, - R'2 and R°3, whether identical or different, represent a (C,-Cs)alkyl group, linear or branched. - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and - x represents an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z+x=3. In particular, R° is an acyclic chain. Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group -NH4 or -N(H)R, where R represents a C4-C4 alkyl, a C4-C cycloalkyl, or a C4 aromatic. More preferably, R° is a linear saturated C4-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH4. Even more preferably, R' is a linear saturated C4-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH4. In particular, R°3 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably R' represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R°» represents the ethyl group. In particular, R°3 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; preferably, R°3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'; represents the methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3. In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from among the amino alkoxysilanes containing only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH₂), such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, the 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxy-silane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethy!)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane. Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and N- @-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES). The (poly)amine compound may also be chosen from among amine polymers, in particular having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mol⁻¹ to 1,000,000 g.mol⁻¹, preferably ranging from 500 g.mol⁻¹ to 500,000 g.mol⁻¹, and preferably ranging from 500 g.mol⁻¹ to 100,000 g.mol⁻¹. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine and selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular of formula (IV) H,N-ALK-Si(R>,)(R>;)-O-[ Si(R>,\(R?1)-O]," SiI(R?2(R?1)-R°4(IV) Formula (IV) in which ALK represents a (C,-C4)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as propylene, R',, and R3, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (C,-C,)alkyl group such as methyl, and R°4 represents a (C,-C;)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably in C, such as n-butyl, n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 500 to 3000 g.mol!. As an example of polydimethylsiloxanes (TV), one can cite those sold under the names "MCR-A11" and "MCR-A12" by the company Gelest. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are diaminized, i.e., contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH₂). More particularly, of a formula chosen from compounds with formulas (V) and (VD): ALK[(O-ALK')n-NH;]> (V) or H2N-ALK-Si(R")2-[O-Si(R")21n-O-Si(R)>-ALK"-NH (VD formulas (V) and (VI) in which ALK and ALK*, identical or different, represent a (C,-C4)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as propyl R°, identical or different, represents a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, where m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the value of m is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the compound (V) or (VI) ranges from 500 g.mol-! to 55000 g.mol!. Examples of compounds with formula (VI) include those sold under the names "DMS-A11", "DMS-A12", "DMS-A15", "DMS-A21", "DMS-A31", "DMS-A32" and "DMS-A35" by the company Gelest. The (poly)amine compound(s) which are diaminized are particularly the diamine polyethers, notably of formula H,N-ALK-O-[ALK*-O],-ALK''-NH; with ALK, ALK' and ALK'', identical or different, representing a (C,-C; Jalkylene, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine or compounds; in particular known under the reference Jeffamine from the Huntsman company; and more particularly polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol with, -diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine, i.e., contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH₂). More particularly, triamine polyethers, notably of the formula ALK'''[(O-ALK'),-NH₂]; with n and ALK' as defined above and ALK'''*, representing a trivalent (C, -Cs)alkylene group, linear or branched, and ne representing an integer greater than or equal to 0. As (poly)amine compounds which are triamine, triamine polyethers are particularly cited, and in particular polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, c-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the denominations Jeffamine T-403. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprise more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH). In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide, poly(2-aminoethyl) methacrylate. Preferably, polyamine compounds are chosen from chitosans (especially poly(D-glucosamine), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains. According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are specifically chosen from among the amino poly(alkylene (Cz-Cs)imines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, particularly poly(ethyleneimine), especially that sold under reference 408700 by Aldrich Chemical or under the denomination- commercial formulation Lupasol by BASF, in particular with molecular weights between 1,200 and 25,000; poly(allylamine), in particular that sold under reference 479136 by Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those marketed under the name Lupamin® 9030 by BASF; polyamino acids with NH groups, such as polylysine, in particular that sold by INC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular that sold by CarboMer Inc; polyvinyl amino alcohol, in particular that sold by CarboMer Inc; acrylamido(C,-Cg)alkylamine-based copolymers, in particular acrylamidopropylamine-based copolymers; and poly(D-Glucosamine) for example sold under the reference Kionutrime CSG® by the company Kytozyme. According to one embodiment, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains are chosen from the following formulas (VII): R,-Si(R,)(Re)-O-[Si(R,)(Re)-01]n-[Si(ALK!-NH)(R:)-01,-Si(R,(Re)-R,( VII) Formula (VII) in which R,, identical or different, represents a hydroxy or (C,-C4)alkyl group, R, and Rc, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (C,-C,)alkyl group such as methyl, ALK! represents a (C,-Cs )alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly interrupted by an N(H) group, and n are integers greater than or equal to 1, preferably m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound of formula (VII) ranges from 1000 g.mol⁻¹ to 500000 g.mol⁻¹. According to an advantageous variant, the formula (VI) is such that R, Rp, and Re represent a methyl group, ALK represents a propylene group, and the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mol to 55000 g.mol. Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI) include those sold under the names "AMS-132", "AMS-152", "AMS-162", "AMS-163", "AMS-191", and "AMS-1203" by the company Gelest. According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that R, represents a hydroxyl or (C,-C;)alkyl group such as methyl, ALK! represents a (Cs-Ce)alkylene group substituted by an NH group, preferably ALK! represents -(CHz); - N(H)-(CH;).-, and m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound of formula (VI) ranges from 5000 g.mol-! to 500000 g.mol-!. As an amino polymer, we can also mention polytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) with, w-diamine, polybutadienes with, β-diamine. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from (poly)amine compounds, in particular selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicones, polyglucosamines, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, and even more preferably selected from the poly(D-Glucosamine), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), the 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aminopropy terminal groups at the end of the chain], and even more preferentially is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES). A. (Polov)thiol compounds According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds also called "(poly)mercapto". The (poly)thiol compound can in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic. In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is siliconed, that is to say, it comprises one or more thiol groups, it also comprises at least one siloxane chain. In one particular embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Polythiol silicones are an example. The (poly)thiol compound used in a composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from among non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds. By "non-polymer compounds", in the sense of the present invention, we mean compounds that are not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers. According to one embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s), which is organic and non-polymer, have the formula (VIII) below, as well as its solvates such as its hydrates: L(SH), (VIID Formula (VIII) in which: - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably n is between inclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5; - L designates a multivalent group (at least divalent), in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being possibly interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as —O-, —OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R.(R4)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C,-Cg)alkyl group such as methyl; and / or L being possibly replaced by one or more groups chosen from: -N(R,)R,. and (X°),-C(X)-(X)-R,; with X, X' and X"', identical or different, represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(R;) group; a, and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b equals 16 R, and R, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (C,-Cs)alkyl group, or aryl(C,-C,)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably R, and R, represent a hydrogen atom; and R. and R4, identical or different, represent a (C 1-Cs)alkyl, aryl(C,-C4)alkyl or (C,-Cs)alkoxy group. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among polythiol compounds, in particular polythiol compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are non-polymeric, in particular of formula (VIII) defined above, in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably p is an integer inclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5. The (poly)thiol compound(s) suitable for the invention are preferably dithiol compounds. Preferably, L denotes a multivalent radical in the Cz-C3 group, particularly a linear one. Preferably, the fat-soluble polythiol is a diol in the Cz-C3 group, particularly a linear one. Advantageously, the Cz-Cy chain is a hydrocarbon chain, that is, one composed of carbon and hydrogen. In particular, the fat-soluble polythiol is a linear diol in the Cz-C6 group, particularly in the C0-C4 group. Examples of (poly)thiol compounds with formula (VII) include, in particular, 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol, and 1,18-octadecanedithiol. Preferably, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol are used, preferably 1,12-dodecanedithiol. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiolated compound(s) is chosen from thiolated alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of formula (VIID) below: R°,-Si(OR°,)z(R';), (VII) Formula (VII) in which: @ R', is a C;-C;2 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, substituted by one or more groups chosen from the following groups: - thiol, and - aryl, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino, the aryl group being substituted by one or more thiol groups, or thiol(C,-C;)alkyl, preferably thiol(C,-C;)alkyl, and - R°, is possibly interrupted in its hydrocarbon chain by one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, a carbonyl group C(O), or their combination such as ester -C(O)-O-, or amide —C(O)-N(H)-, R°, being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom, @ R'; and R'3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atom(s) such as methyl, @ z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and @ x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3. Preferably, R'» represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethyl. Preferably, R'; represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl. Preferably, R' is an acyclic chain, particularly R' is a linear or branched C,-C, hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, substituted by one or more thiol groups, preferably substituted by a thiol group. Preferably, R' is a linear saturated C,-Cg hydrocarbon chain substituted with a thiol group, R'> represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, z is equal to 3. According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are chosen from those of the following formula (IX) (R'O)(R°)(R3)Si-[CH(R)].-[N(R*)-L'],-SH (IX) Formula (IX) in which: @ p is equal to 0 or | ; and t is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2 ; @ R! represents a (C,-Ce)alkyl radical; @ R? and R, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from: a (C,-C«)alkyl group, in particular in C,-C, such as methyl; a (C,-C«)alkoxy group, in particular (C,-C4alkoxy such as methoxy; @ R° and R°*, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or an (C,-Cg)alkyl group such as methyl; @ L' represents a linear or branched divalent, saturated hydrocarbon radical, in C,-C 20- According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxane compounds are chosen from those of the following formula (IX): (R"O)(R'\(R>)Si-CH(R*)-CH(R5)-(L2),- SH (IX) Formula (IX) in which: @ q equals 0 or 1; @ X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably sulfur; @ R'! denotes a (C,-Cs)alkyl radical; @ R””and R*, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from: - a (C,-Cs)alkoxy group, in particular at C1-C4; - a (C,-Cg)alkyl radical; @ R° represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C,-C4 possibly substituted by an amino, thiol or hydroxy group; @ R“ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C,-C4, in particular methyl; @ L' represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched saturated in C,-C 20, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and / or possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy, thiol or amino groups. Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from the 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-butanol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanol, 11-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-1-propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-1-propanethiol. Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysily1)-1-propanethiol (14814-09-6). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds. Poly(poly)thiol compounds can be homopolymers, copolymers, star, comb, brush, and dendritic polymers with hydroxyl and / or thiol motifs. The polymers can be of natural origin, such as polysaccharides, poly- peptides, or synthetic compounds such as acrylics, polyesters, and polyglycols. Thiol motifs may be present as terminal or pendant groups. Examples include the polymers described in the following scientific articles: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, CG Overberger et al, Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http: / / pac.jupac.org / publications / pac / pdf / 1962 / pdf / 0402x052 1.pdf; EP 1,247,515 A2: US 3,676,440; and EP 1,572,778. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds of the invention are preferably organic and / or silicone-based, more preferably of formula (X): POLY(SH), (X) Formula (X) in which: @ q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3; @ POLY denotes a polymeric radical, preferably carbon-based or silicone-based; POLY possibly being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Ra)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C,-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl; and / or POLY being possibly substituted by one or more halogen atoms, or a group chosen from R,(R£)N- and -(X*),-C(X)-(X Ra 5 - X, X' and X”', whether identical or different, represent an atom of oxygen, sulfur, or a group N(R;); - a, and b equal to 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b equals 1; - R, and R', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (C,-Cy0)alkyl group, or an aryl(C,-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, preferably R, and R', represent a hydrogen atom; and - R, and Ra, identical or different, represent a (C,-C,0)alkyl, aryl(C,-C4)alkyl or (C,-C,0)alkoxy group. The methods for preparing the (poly)thiol polymeric compounds implemented according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are described below without limitation. The (poly)thiol polymeric compounds implemented according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization or polycondensation of monomer units with thiol or protected thiol functions, optionally by co-polymerization or co-polycondensation of monomer units lacking thiol functions or protected thiol functions. According to one embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol polymeric compounds used according to the invention are polymers soluble in cosmetic media, particularly in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media. They are more preferably obtained from amine polymers and their ammonium salts or from polyhydroxylated polymers. According to another embodiment of the invention, the thiolated polymers used according to the invention are polymers soluble in lipophilic media. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY denotes a carbon and / or silicon polymeric radical, preferably silicon, POLY being able to further contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and / or one or more functions selected from the functions, (thio)esters, (thio)ketones, (thio)amides, (thio)ureas, (thio)carbamates, and / or be substituted by one or more (C,-C,o)alkyl, linear or branched, (C,-Cyo)alkoxy, linear or branched groups, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functions may be borne by the substituent(s). The average molecular weight in molar weight of polythiol polymer compounds, such as those of formula (X), is generally between 500 and 400,000 g.mol-1, preferably between 500 and 150,000 g.mol-1. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compounds are selected from polyorganosiloxanes having thiol groups on terminal chains such as those of formula (XD: HS-L*-Si(R#)(RP)-O-[Si(R#)(RE)-O],-Si(R°)(RE)-L*-SH (XD) Formula (XI) in which: @ R: and R°, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (C,-C,)alkyl group such as methyl, (C,-C4)alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl(C,-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl(C,-C4)alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (C,-C,,)alkyl such as methyl, @n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1, and more particularly the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of silicone is between 500 and 55000 g.mol-*; particularly n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 50, and preferably between 10 and 30, and @ L“ and LS, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, in particular represent a covalent bond, a (C,-Cs)alkylene, (C,-Cg)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(C,-Cs)alkylene, (C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy(C,-Cs)alkylene, (C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy(C,-Cs)alkylenoxy or oxy(C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy(C,-Ce)alkylene group, preferably a (C,-Cs)alkylene, (C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(C,-Cg)alkylene, or (C,-Cg)alkylene-oxy(C;-Cs)alkylene. Preferably, (poly)thiol compounds are poly-thiol polyorganosiloxanes, and more preferably polythiol polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular chosen from those with formula (XID): HS-L#-Si(CH,),-O-[Si(CH)--O],-Si(CH-),-L*-SH (XII) Formula (XIN) in which: @ L“ and L5, are as defined previously in formula (XD), in particular L* and L° represent a (C,-Cs)alkylene, (C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(C 1-Cs)alkylene, or (C,-Cs)alkylene-oxy(C,-Cs)alkylene group, more preferably a divalent group selected from —R,—, —-OR>—, —R,—O-, —R,-OR,—, preferably —R, —OR,—, with R, representing a linear or branched (C,-Cs)alkylene group, preferably linear, such as ethylene or propylene, preferably n-propylene; and © n is such as defined in the formula (XD. Examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XII) include mercaptosiloxane or thiol siloxanes, in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference X-22-167B and mercapto-siloxane, in which the mercapto functions are pendant, marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-2001, or polydimethylsiloxane in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain by thio-n-propyl groups, 80-120 marketed by Gelest under the name DMS — SM 21. Preferably, polythiol compounds are polyorganosiloxanes containing thiol groups on side chains such as those of formula (XI): Rs-S1(Rb)(Re)-O-[Si(R#)(Rb)-O] 7 -[S1(RE)(ALK,-SH)-O],-S1i(RP)(Re)-Re (XIII) Formula (XIII) in which: @ R;, and R°, are such as defined in formula (XI) and R* is such as defined for R: and R®, preferably Re, RP, and R, identical, represent a (C,-C,)alkyl group such as methyl, @ R* can also represent a (C,-C,)alkyl group substituted by a (C, -C,)alkylamino or amino, or thiol group, preferably (C,-C,)alkyl such as methyl; @ ALK, represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen (in particular O), a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O, or S, or their combinations such as -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALK, represents a (C,-C;)alkylene group, more preferably (C,-Cz)alkylene such as propylene; @ net m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol-!. Examples of polythiol compounds with formula (XIII) include those sold by Genesee Polymers under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP-710s, preferably GP-367 marketed by Genesee Polymers. Polythiol compounds include polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least two thiol groups, such as, for example, the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest in https: / / www.gpesilicones.com / products / silicone-fluids / mercapto-functional, https: / / www.shinetsusilicone-global.com / products / type / oil / detail / search / deg07.shtml, and 1053 _Reactive Silicones_Silanes / Silicones — Gelest. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers bearing at least one thiol group such as thiol PAMAMs. For reference, the (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least two thiol groups such as those of formula (XIII). A. Carbonyl (polv) compounds According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound. In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is selected from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4-acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2-ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarboxaldehyde, phthaldialdehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4'-biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides such as oxidized inulins, particularly those with the formula (II) as defined below. Particularly (poly)carbonyl compounds comprise a Cs-C7 carbocycle, saturated or unsaturated, preferably aromatic such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic such as terephthaledhyde. According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound(s) are chosen from non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups and optionally one or more anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably carboxy or carboxylate groups. The non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides according to the invention can be represented by the following formula (IT): P-(CHO), (COOQ), (II) formula (IT) in which: P represents a polysaccharide chain preferably made up of mono- saccharides comprising 5 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms and more particularly 6 carbon atoms: Q is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions from an alkali metal, or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, gold amines organic compounds such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-amino propanediol-1,2- and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline, m+nest greater than or equal to 1, meest such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)), is included in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably 0.005 to 1.5. nest such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS(COOX)), is included in the range from 0 to 2, preferably from 0.001 to 1.5. By degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharides according to the invention, we mean the ratio between the number of carbons oxidized to an aldehyde or carboxylic group for all repeating motifs and the number of elementary monosaccharides (even those opened by pre-oxidation) constituting the polysaccharide. The CHO and COOX groups can be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example on carbon atoms 2, 3 or 6, of a 6-carbon saccharide motif; Preferably, oxidation can take place in carbon 2 and 3, more particularly from 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number of the rings that may have been opened. The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably chosen from celluloses, starches, maltodextrins, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, polyxylans and tragacanth gums and their derivatives. By derivative, we mean compounds obtained by chemical modification of the aforementioned compounds. These may be esters, amides, or ethers of said compounds. Oxidation can be carried out according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854 161 or in the article "Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses" by E. Fredon et al, Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pages 1 to 12 (2002). Another oxidation process is described in the article "Water-soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion" in Industril Crops and Products 7, RE Wing, JL Willet 45-52 (1997). According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is combined in its processing with an amine catalyst as described in the articles Progress in Coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in Coating 135, 510-516 (2019), preferably the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), the DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably chosen from among DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[S.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[S.4.0]undec-7-ene). A. (Poly)acrylate compounds According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound. By "(poly)acrylate" we mean a compound which includes at least one acrylate ester group H,C=C(R")-C(O)-Y- with R° representing a hydrogen atom or (C 1-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R* represents a hydrogen atom, and Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably O. More particularly, the (poly)acrylate(s) of the invention are of formula (XIV) L[-YC(O)-C(R:)=CH;], (XIV) Formula (XIV) in which q, and L, are such as defined in formula (VIID); Ÿ and Re are such as defined previously, preferably Y = O and R° = H. According to a preferred embodiment the compounds of formula (XIV) are such that L represents a di or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and R° represents a hydrogen atom. According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compounds are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes having at least one acrylate group on the side chain such as those with the formula: Rs-Si(RP)(Re)-O-[SI(R)(R®)-0]y-[Si(R")(ALK,-YC(O)-C(R°)=CH2)-0],-Si(R°)(R#)- R« (XV) Formula (XV) in which: @ R«, R°, and RS, are such as defined in formula (XII), preferably, represent a (C,-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl, @ ALK, is as defined for formula (XIII), preferably ALK, represents a (C,-Cs)alkylene group, more preferably (C,-C4)alkylene such as propylene; and @ net m, identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol-!; @ Y is as defined previously, preferably O. More specifically, the (poly)acrylate compound can be selected from 1,3-butanedioldiacrylate, 1,4-butanedioldiacrylate, di(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, glycerol 1,3-diglycerol diacrylate, glycerol propoxylate (1PO / OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxylate diacrylate, hydroxypivalyl hydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol propoxylate (1PO / OH) diacrylate, pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, pentaerythritol triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02.6]decanedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylate (1EO / OH) methyl ether diacrylate, and trimethylolpropane. propoxylate triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethy-lolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, trimethylolpropane tri-acrylate and tris[2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl]isocyanurate. The (poly)acrylate compound can also be chosen from N,N'-methylene bis-acrylamide. According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is combined in its processing with an amine catalyst as described, for example, in the articles Progress in Coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in Coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine and DMAP. (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferentially chosen from DBU (1,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (1,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (1,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (1,8-Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene). More specifically, (poly)acrylate compounds are chosen from those of formula (XIV), notably trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), notably copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropylmethylsiloxane. A. Metal alkoxides According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound selected from the following metal alkoxides of formulas (XIV,), (XTV;), (XTV.) and (XTVd) and their mixtures: M-(OR,), (XIV,) RM-(OR,),1 (XIV,) (R10),-1-MR"-M"-(OR1")n-1 (XTV;) RM(R")-(OR1)a2 (XXIV4) Formulas (XIV,), (XIV,), (XTV;) ct (XTV;) in which: - M and M, identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the alkaline earth metals, transition metals, lanthanide metals, post-transition metals such as aluminum or tin, and metalloids such as boron; preferably transition metals such as Ti and post-transition metals such as aluminium; - net n° represent respectively the valences of the atoms represented by M and M'; - R, and Ry', identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon group being optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N; and / or said hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or carbonyl groups; -RetR, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, in particular O or N and / or said hydrocarbon group possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy or carbonyl groups; - R" represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a divalent hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, especially O or N, with R2 representing a hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, M and M), identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the transition metals such as titanium, or zirconium or the alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, more preferably chosen from among the transition metals such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferably titanium. Preferably, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from alkoxides of formula (XTV,) as defined above. According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are more particularly chosen from alkoxides of formula (XIV,), in which: - M represents an atom chosen from among the transition metals, the metals of the lanthanide family, the post-transition metals such as aluminium, tin, the metalloids such as boron, or the alkaline earth metals such as magnesium or calcium; - n represents the valence of the atom represented by M; - R,, represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. According to another, more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from among the alkoxides of formula (XIV), in which M re-presents an atom chosen from among the transition metals such as zirconium or titanium, the lanthanide family metals, the post-transition metals such as aluminium, tin, the metalloids such as boron, and the alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; R, re- represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the organo-metallic compound(s) are chosen from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OCH5);), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH,CH.,CH;);), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH;).);), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH,CH,CH,CH;), zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH.);)s), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC,H;);), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH,CH,CH;),), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH:);)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH,CH.CH,CH;);), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)s);), 2-ethylhexyl titanium oxide (Ti(OCH,CH(C:Hs)(CH2);CH3)+), and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of formula (XXIV,) preferably in which M represents an atom selected from the transition metals, in particular titanium such as titanium butoxide. According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from the compounds A) (poly)amines, B) (poly)thiols, C) (poly)carbonyls, D) (poly)acrylates, and preferably from the compounds A) (poly)amines and B) (poly)thiols. Specifically, said (poly)amine compounds A) are chosen from a) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine), b) diamine polyethers, particularly polyethylene glycol α,γ-diamine (with an amine function at the end of the chain) and 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,1-tridecanediamine, c) triamine polyethers such as polyetheramine (or jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes such as APTES, e) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains such as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. In particular, said (poly)thiol compounds B) are chosen from a) polydialkyl-siloxanes with thiol functions, and b) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions, particularly are chosen from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain (such as mercaptopropyl), particularly those of formula (XIII) In particular, said compounds (poly)acrylate D) are chosen from those of formula (XIV) in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV) in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropyl methylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate. iii) Cosmetic active ingredient According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more cosmetic active ingredients. More specifically, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, or CS implemented comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients. In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) of the invention is / are selected from a) coloring materials (or coloring agents) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, b) active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, preferably skin, c) UV filters, and d) mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, at least one cosmetic agent is chosen from coloring materials, preferably chosen from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures, more preferably pigments. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible cosmetic active ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Coloring agents According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more coloring materials. More particularly in the process of the invention at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implemented, comprises at least one colouring material, particular or not, water-soluble or not, and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition considered. For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of a professional. Preferably, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, or C5 comprises at least one coloring material selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably pigments; more preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are selected from carbon black, iron oxides, particularly yellow, red, and black, and iron oxide-coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, particularly blue and violet such as BLUE 1 LAKE, and azo pigments, particularly red such as D&C RED 7, an alkali metal salt of red. lithol such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferentially red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments especially red ones such as D&C RED 7. Pigments For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratinous materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight. Suitable pigments for the invention include, in particular, organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. These pigments may be synthetic or natural. They may be in powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated. For example, these pigments may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as pearlescent or glitter pigments, and mixtures thereof. A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among mineral pigments. The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium, or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron, or chromium. It could also be a pigment with a structure such as sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30. Alternatively, it could be a pigment with a structure such as silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment with this structure is the one marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P; this pigment consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments can be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides. A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among organic pigments. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on organic pigments. Examples of organic pigments useful in the present invention include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex pigments, isoindolinone, isoindoline, and quinacridone. périnone, pérylène, dicétopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphé- nylméthane et quinophtalone.In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. . As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 11710); COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); COSMENYL ORANGE GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085); COSMENYL CARMINE FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); COSMENYL VIOLET RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); BLACK COSMENYLR: Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266). The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core. Organic pigment can also be a lacquer. By "lacquer" we mean dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. Examples of inorganic substrates onto which dyes are adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Carminic acid is one example of a dye adsorbed onto organic substrates. Other colorants known by the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), and D&C Yellow 1. O (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, Sudan Red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beetroot juice and caramel. Examples of lacquers include the product known as D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 : 1). The pigment can also be a special effects pigment. By "special effect pigments," we mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy, and clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinct from colored pigments that provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or conventionally transparent tint. There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter. The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm. Pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, possessing one or more functionalities with a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also possess at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of C, Ca, and polyols such as glycerol and diglycerin are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by Avecia, poly(12-hydroxystearate) with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by Avecia, poly(12-hydroxystearate) (CTFA) sold under the name Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the name Arlacel P100 by Unigema, and mixtures thereof. Other dispersants usable in the compositions of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17. 000 sold by Avecia, polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. In one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes described above, and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are selected from mineral, mineral-organic, or organic pigments. According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface by an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is a coloring material chosen from one or more direct colorant(s). The term "direct dye" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, distinct from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic. Among the suitable direct dyes for the invention are azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Examples include the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (A) and (B) below and the azo cationic dyes of formulas (C) and (D) below: Hét+-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q- Hét+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q (A) (B) Het+-N=N-Ar, Q Ar-N=N-Ar",Q (C) (D) Formulas (A) to (D) in which: - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (C,-Cz)alkyl group such as methyl; - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C,-Cz)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium; - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as (C,-C; J)alkyl possibly substituted, (C,-C;)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(C,-C; \(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, aryl(C,-Cs)alkylamino, and N-(C,-C;)alkyl-N-aryl(C,-C; )alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group; - Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such as phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (C,-Cz)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C,-Cs)(alkyl)amino, (C;-C; )alkoxy or phenyl groups; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C,-C;)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group; or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het* and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together form with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C,-C; Jalkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group; - Q represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate. In particular, we can mention the endocyclic cationic direct dyes of azo and hydrazono of formulas (A) to (D) as defined above. More specifically, the endocyclic cationic direct dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954. Preferably, the following direct dyes of formulas (E) and (F): = = a° FA se RÉ—N" green 0% eut 5 LOS do da ù 0 The R° % N mm | 0 rs nm) # pri 1 Jen 7N (TR L Pm Q ç LS a! (Fy Formula (E) or (F) in which: - R! represents a (C,-C,)alkyl group such as methyl; - R? and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; - R* represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C; - Cs)alkyl possibly substituted, (C,-C;)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(C,-C; (alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R* is a hydrogen atom; - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH; - Q is an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly ha- such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. In particular, the dyes of formula (E) and (F) are selected from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, and Basic Orange 31, or their derivatives, with Q being an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. The direct dyes can be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances. By "anionic direct dyes" we mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO;R" or SO;R° substituent with R° designating a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic direct dyes can be chosen from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarymethane dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes. Among the natural direct dyes usable according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used. Preferably, direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes. Colouring materials, preferably pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them. The direct colorant(s) may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition which contains them. Preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient(s), in particular the colouring material(s) and more particularly the pigment(s), are introduced into at least C1, C2, C3, C4 or C5 compositions. active ingredients in skincare According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more active skincare ingredients. More specifically, in the process of the invention according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4, or C5 used comprises one or more active ingredients, preferably at a concentration of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in question. In particular, the active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic and / or one lipophilic active ingredient, and preferably a hydrophilic active ingredient. The term “hydrophilic active” refers to a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds. The cosmetic active ingredient(s) may be chosen from among: a) vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, especially tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives; b) humectants, in particular urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, and xylityl glucoside, and in particular glycerol; c) C-glycoside compounds; d) antioxidant compounds; e) anti-aging actives, in particular hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;f) skin care agents selected from allantoin, panthenol and protein hydrolysates; g) polyphenols, including escin, ruscus, diosmin, hesperidin, resveratrol, and h) mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implemented, comprises a moisturizing agent (also called a humectant). Preferably, the active ingredient is a moisturizing agent, and in particular is glycerin (glycerol). The active ingredient(s) may in particular be present in the composition or container(s) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight. UV filters According to one embodiment of the invention, the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS used comprises, as a cosmetic active ingredient, at least one UV filter. The UV filter(s) is / are a UV filter commonly used in cosmetics. It may be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV filters authorized in cosmetics. The UV filters suitable for the invention can be of different types. They can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic. By "lipophilic UV filter" we mean any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase. By "hydrophilic UV filter" we mean any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in mi-cellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase. The term "insoluble UV filter" refers to any cosmetic or dermatological filter that is neither defined as a lipophilic nor a hydrophilic UV filter, and that is in the form of particles in an aqueous or oily liquid phase. The UV filters in the composition according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection. According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention, preferably cosmetic, may include at least one organic and / or mineral UV filter (UV radiation filters from sunlight). In particular, the UV filter(s) are selected from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Organic UV filters may also be selected from anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, particularly those cited in US patent 5,624,663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives, as described in patents EP 6,693,230 and US 2,463,264; and p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives. the derivatives of methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole), as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119;Benzoxazole derivatives, as described in patent applications EP O 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications WO 04006878, WO 05058269 and WO 06032741 and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of organic UV filters in the compositions according to the invention varies from 1% to 50%, preferably from 1% to 40%. % by weight, and again for example goes from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The UV filter(s) can be mineral UV filters, which are generally pigments. These pigments can be coated or uncoated. Thus, mineral UV filters can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, titanium oxides treated with silicone, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the CI to C5 compositions according to the invention are free of mineral UV filters. According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) present in the compositions according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition C1 to CS containing them. For example, it ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions Cl to C5 according to the invention further comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more mineral UV filters. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise an association of UV filters as described in patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or application US 2014 / 0134120. Preferably the process for treating keratinous materials, in particular skin, and the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implement or include one or more coloring materials chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red such as D&C RED 7, alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferably red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red such as D&C RED 7. Advantageously, the process of treating keratinous materials is a makeup process, particularly for the skin, especially a process for lip makeup, mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, and foundation. iv) Fatty phase - fatty substances According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention implements a or several fatty substances, particularly one or more oils, preferably volatile. More particularly in the process of the invention at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implemented in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase. In particular, at least one of the compositions implemented in process C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS comprises one or more fats, particularly one or more oils, preferably volatile. By "oil" we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) is / are chosen from volatile oils, in particular: * hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: - C;-C;5 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as C,:-C;5 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the commercial names of Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), more preferably isododecane; - linear alkanes for example in C,1-C16, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and their mixtures as well as mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); - cyclic, non-aromatic, Cs-C alkanes; volatile; # short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; * hydrocarbon carbonate oils of structure R°,-OC(O)-O-R'; in which R°, and R'. independently designate a C,-C alkyl group; linear, branched or cyclic, preferably a C,-C alkyl group; advantageously, chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; * Ether oils of formula R,-OR; in which R, and Ra independently denote a C4-C alkyl group; linear, branched or cyclic, preferably a C4-C alkyl group;; *silicone oils, in particular those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, silicone oils possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylocty]trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethy]trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially the volatile oil(s) b) are chosen from among the Cs-C,s alkanes, particularly branched ones such as isododecane. In particular, at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or C5 used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oils, in particular selected from: * non-volatile fluorinated oils, in particular chosen from among fluorinated polyethers, as well as from among fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones; * non-volatile silicone oils, in particular chosen from the following non-volatile silicones with INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; and their mixtures. * non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C,sC,, such as mixtures whose INCI names are (C,sC,9)alkane, (C,2-Ca,)alkane, (C»1-Czs)alkane, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not; v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures; # non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils that can be chosen from: 1) Fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C,0-C:6, preferably mono-alcohols; advantageously, alcohols in C,0-Cx are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; li) triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C3 to C5, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated saturated; examples include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as their mixtures; iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR” in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid remainder comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R° represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10;in particular selected from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, diethyl 2-hexanoate propylene glycol and their mixtures, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; (iv) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; (v) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C1-C;s alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; vi) linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; vil) fatty alcohol or Cz4-Ca3 branched fatty acid esters such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2-tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate; vili) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer such as dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; ix) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; x) di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer; and xii) their mixtures; * Non-volatile carbonate oils may be chosen from carbonates of the formula R,-OC(O)-OR, with Ry and Ra, identical or different, representing an alkyl chain from C4 to Cy2, and preferably from C1 to C0, linear or branched; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate; dineopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; dineoheptyl carbonate; diheptyl carbonate; diisononyl carbonate; or dinenonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate; * oils called non-volatile ether oil of formula R,-OR; in which R, and Rade independently denote a linear, branched, or cyclic Cs-C alkyl group, preferably a Ce-C;3 alkyl group, and preferably a Cs-Cy alkyl group. It may be preferable for R, and R; to be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, and 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl. group 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and a group 2- (1,3,3-trimethylbutyl) - . 5,7,1-trimethyloctyl. As a cyclic alkyl group, one can cite a cy- group. clohexyl, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, dilaury ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof; more preferably c) the non-volatile oil(s) is / are chosen from among the polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range; the mixtures of Cy5-C;5 Alkane, and from among the linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR” in which RC(O)-O represents a carboxylic acid remnant comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R° represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as defined above in particular isononyl isononanoate. Most preferably the process of the invention uses one or more hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-Cy5 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes such as C13-Cy5 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane. In particular, the quantity of oil(s) in at least one of the compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implemented in the process is between 1 and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 10% and 90% by weight, preferably between 25% and 75%, better between 30% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Litions: According to one embodiment, the process for treating keratinous materials uses water and the composition(s) Cl to C5 used in the process of the invention include water. According to an advantageous variant, C1 is aqueous or hydroalcoholic, According to an advantageous variant, C2 is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. According to an advantageous variant, C3 is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. According to an advantageous variant, C4 is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. According to an advantageous variant, C5 is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, C1 is an anhydrous composition. According to another variant, C2 is anhydrous. According to another variant, C3 is anhydrous. According to yet another variant, C4 is anhydrous. According to yet another variant, CS is anhydrous. In particular, C1 and / or C4 is / are anhydrous. In particular, C4 is anhydrous and comprises at least one oil, notably volatile oil such as isododecane. The Cl to C5 compositions implemented in the process of the invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents. An "organic solvent" is defined as an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically altering it. Examples of organic solvents include: a) Cz-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), especially those with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment the composition further comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin. In particular, compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or C5 (preferably C2 or C3) are aqueous or hydroalcoholic (ethanol / water mixture in particular in volume ratio between 1 / 99 and 99 / 1, more particularly between 10 / 90 and 90 / 10, even more particularly between 20 / 80 and 80 / 20, preferably 40 / 60 to 60 / 40 such as 50 / 50). Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS may be in anhydrous form, water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion. Adjuvants The compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 or CS implemented in the process of the invention may further include one or more adjuvants selected from perfumes, preservatives, fillers, free radical scavengers, polymers, thickeners or film-forming agents, surfactants, trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, and propellants. Another object of the invention is a composition C1, preferably aqueous or hydroalcoholic, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) and iii) possibly at least one active ingredient as defined above, preferably at least one coloring matter, such as at least one pigment as defined above; and possibly iv) one or more fats as defined above. Another object of the invention is a C2 composition, preferably aqueous or hydroalcoholic, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinker as defined above and iii) optionally at least one active ingredient as defined above; and optionally iv) one or more fatty substances as defined above. Another object of the invention is a C3 composition, preferably aqueous or hy- droalcoolic, which comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined above and iii) at least one active ingredient as defined above; and optionally iv) one or more fatty substances as defined above. Another object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the C1 C2 or C3 composition which comprises iii) one or more cosmetic active(s) as defined above and optionally iv) one or more fatty substances as defined above, in particular for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the makeup of keratinous materials, in particular skin such as lips, eyelashes or eyebrows. Kit According to yet another aspect, the present invention also relates to a multi-compartment kit or device, particularly for cosmetic purposes, for keratinous materials, especially for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips, eyelashes, and eyebrows, comprising: - at least one compartment containing at least one ingredient 1) of formula (I) or (la) as defined above and possibly at least iii) a cosmetic active, in particular comprising composition C1 as defined above; - at least one compartment separate from the one containing i) and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined above, and possibly iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular containing composition C4; and - optionally, at least one compartment separate from those containing 1) and ii) and containing iii) at least one cosmetic active, identical or different from that / those possibly contained in the compartments comprising i) and ii) and as defined above, in particular containing composition C5. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Quantities are indicated as a percentage by weight. Examples This é | : KLEX 730 made by KING industrial [Chem. 5]: Compound 2 Glucose with acetoacetate function (5eq) Compound 2 was synthesized according to the following scheme: [Chem. 6]: R1 7 Ho Be eo x o 0 HO ke>—o CH, o —ezzréctécéssamsantétécétéisnisssmnteqe: Ft HEF—07 7 D CH SX nomm( » BE discount a1—ommm( ; 4 150°C > Oo OH Rt R 1 Scheme in which R1 identical or different represents a hydrogen atom or a -methylcarbonylmethylcarbonyl group -C(O)-CHz-C(O)-CH;, it being understood that at least two R1 radicals represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH,. In a 1-liter three-necked flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and a distillation column, 100 g of D-glucose and 482.90 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140 °C–150 °C) for 5 h. After 5 h, NMR confirms the grafting of the acetoacetate group. The reaction mixture is then concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 150 °C under continuous vacuum. A very viscous, dark brown liquid is obtained, which, upon analysis, corresponds to the expected product. Compound 3 Mannose with acetoacetate function (5 eq) Ri HO To Oo oO x is 8. © S = HE AA = 54 He->—0 cH gr—4 HC _ / “ û R1—oum( » am —omm( > XX + —mseaenzezz az nn Man © 150°C Pau % = ® nave > The 0 1 ee R1 Scheme in which R1 identical or different represents a hydrogen atom or a -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH group; it being understood that at least two R1 radicals re- represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CHs. In a three-liter flask equipped with mechanical stirring and a distillation column, 100 g of D-mannose and 482.90 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140 °C–150 °C) for 5 h. After 5 h, NMR confirms the grafting of the acetoacetate group. The reaction mixture is then concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 150 °C under continuous vacuum. A viscous yellow liquid is obtained, corresponding after analysis to the expected product. Compound 4 Xylitol with acetoacetate function (5eq) oO D DH Ri “a v H0vee9 SC COH CH = Hc->—0 ct HC — The Re ' HC Ri Ri Ye 3 —_—— me PS 0” aa 150% aa OH OH good 3 Or by 4 The OH OH oO 5 m7 Its Scheme in which R1 identical or different represents a hydrogen atom or a -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH group, it being understood that at least two radicals R1 re- represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH;. In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and a distillation column, 25 g of xylitol and 142.69 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140 °C–150 °C) for 5 h. After 5 h, NMR confirms the grafting of the acetoacetate group. The reaction mixture is then concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 150 °C under continuous vacuum. A highly viscous brown liquid is obtained, which, upon analysis, corresponds to the expected product. C é n°5 Sorbitol with etoacetate function (6: The Ç at qt a Rt Ra c hard Na "4 4 o © to to ro 50 4 - 5 $s A HG > ot, tu0 } To On MC Rs To o Pr coma SE Spa A « - a OH OH _0 oO nm a 2 °. OH OH 7° x Scheme in which R1 identical or different represents a hydrogen atom or a -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH group; it being understood that at least two radicals Rl re- present -C(O)-CH--C(O)-. In a three-liter flask equipped with mechanical stirring and a distillation column, 100 g of sorbitol and 573.20 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140°C–150°C) for 5 h. After 5 h, NMR confirms the incorporation of the acetoacetate group. The reaction mixture is then concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 150°C under continuous vacuum. A viscous, orange-yellow liquid is obtained, which, upon analysis, corresponds to the expected product. Compound No. 6 Sorbitol with acetoacetate function (3eg) ss 2 4 or M, JO æ a on 4; ; , ; ' 2 #es—0 CH, “e °” * = ms e 2 He Ho #0 $ AA di wa = aan EC - = F3 NV — — nm ï 0” eo A a Faith NE xa OH OH a EE D 8 ma” Na Scheme in which identical or different RI represents a hydrogen atom or a -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH group, it being understood that at least two Rl radicals re- present -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH,. In a three-liter flask equipped with mechanical stirring and a distillation column, 100 g of sorbitol and 260.54 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140°C–150°C) for 5 hours. After 5 hours, NMR confirms the grafting of the acetoacetate group. The reaction mixture is then concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 150°C under continuous vacuum. A viscous yellow liquid is obtained, corresponding after analysis to the product - (3-Aminopropyli tiethoxysilane deffamine T403 I Potyetheramine {Mw=44%gimol} sold by Sigma- / drich AHEV {81 gl'eq) (APTES} CAS No.: 919-30-2 + qe Mon 1 90 cs se Jeponia ie0° aa May #00 your ass, whore A PP us #0 4,7,00-Troxa-1 1-tridecanediamine | | VEGETABLE CHITOSAN. Marketed by Sigma-Aldrioh COLY(R-GLUCOSAMINE) - u Commercial Reference: NSCAS 4246-51-39 KIONUTRIME CSG age mage X% | mare Der Na £, 6. pd Qi —— Ï 205 + Q pr 0 | mas t ; Ni à È èn Atteue comes out |. ecrntanes Polydimethylsioxane) bis(3- C aminopropyl) terminated (PDMS-Bis-cetearyt amodimethicone diNH:) marketed by Momentive CAS number: 106214-84-0 Performance Nateriais CAS No.: 106214-84-0 Mn = 50,200g / word JNA1 OS US TUE ça fem sis =} | BSCIORE EG ECHO Emitted | are THE LE Me Lies à Li, de Pan è. êe (4-65 | (MERCAPTOPROPYL)METHYLSILOXANE] RCAFSOPROPYEIME THYLSILOKAN —DIMETHYLSILOXANE COPOLYMER marketed by Gelest x. : Refowant © hide Reteuan $ covacniate [4-65 ; ; | (MERCAPTOPROPYL)METHYLSILOXANE] || Trimethylolpropane triacrylate — DIMETHYLSILOXANE COPOLYMER marketed by Sigma-Aldrich marketed by Gelest CAS Number: 15625-89-5 ANISSAC- 41772873 {CAS No. 192783-03-5} Molecular weight; 5.060-5 5C0 y sn T S; At 04 Ho 5 ONE “His Sex Ô2 EM are Cu. x #2 “qe Ho vortr= out-gr agro SR pan Ac pr Lannion Terephthalaldehyde marketed by Sigma-AldrichNE CAS: 623-27-8 | pe HO + pri = Implementation of the invention Implementation in one simple step: The compounds of formula (I) 1 to 6 with acetoacetate functional groups and the crosslinking agents 1 to 10 are mixed together before application to Maprecos Bioskin synthetic skin (Bioskin plate #10) (Equivalent elastomeric skin support). The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate. After application to a sample of Bioskin synthetic skin and evaporation of the volatile solvents, non-transfer, non-sticky deposits resistant to food oils, sebum, and water are obtained for application to said synthetic skin. Application in 2 steps: apply base coat A then top coat A or apply base coat B then top coat B The base coat composition, containing an acetoacetate compound, is prepared using a Speed ​​Mixer (2 minutes at 3500 rpm). This base coat is applied to a Bioskin-type vitro substrate (an elastomeric skin-simulating substrate) using a film applicator (wet thickness 100 µm). The coating is left to cure for 24 hours. A top coat-type composition containing a crosslinking compound is then applied. After 24 hours of drying, the resulting deposits are evaluated. Base coat A: deposition of a compound | with 6 acetoacetate functional groups alone or diluted in volatile solvents such as ethanol, water, isododecane or a mixture of isododecane / ethanol or ethanol / water. Optionally, a crosslinking agent may be introduced into this phase to perform pre-crosslinking. Or Base Coat B: application of a crosslinking agent 1 to 10. Top coat A: application with a crosslinking agent 1 to 10. Or Top coat B: deposition of a compound | to 6 to functions acetoacetate alone or diluted in volatile solvents such as ethanol, water, isododecane or a mixture of isododecane / Ethanol or Ethanol / water. Base coat compositions comprising compound(s) 1 to 6 with acetoacetate functions (base coat A) or crosslinking agent(s) 1 to 10 (base coat B) were applied to a Bioskin-type in vitro support using a film applicator (wet thickness 100 µm). The deposit was allowed to dry for 24 hours. The new material generated, after evaporation of volatile solvents, produces non-transferable, non-sticky deposits that are resistant to food oils, sebum and water for skin application. Tape resistance A piece of Scotch tape (3M Scotch® Magic!'M 810; 1 = 19 mm x L = 5 cm) is applied to the deposit. A weight of approximately 1070 g is applied to the tape for 30 seconds. The tape is then removed and placed on a microscope slide to observe the result. The film's adhesion to the substrate is thus evaluated. Resistance to olive oil / water / sebum 0.5 mL of olive oil or water is applied to the formulation film. After 5 minutes, the olive oil, water, and sebum are removed by 15 passes with a cotton ball. The film's deterioration following contact with the aggressor droplet is then observed. Bioskin formulation fragmentation test As with the olive oil and tape resistance tests, films are applied to a Bioskin sample. After a day of drying, the Bioskin plate is stretched 10 times by hand. Then the result can be observed on the formulation film (fragmentation or not). For each association, the evaluations were conducted for the base coat alone. after drying and on the [Base coat] + [Top coat] system after drying. The evaluation is done as follows: +++: Cosmetic property rated as very effective ++: Cosmetic property rated as moderately effective +: Cosmetic property rated as having poor performance O0: Cosmetic property evaluated as not performing Resistance to olive oil, sebum and water 0.5 mL of olive oil or water is applied to the deposit. After 5 minutes, the olive oil or water is removed by 15 passes with a cotton ball. The deterioration of the deposit resulting from its contact with the olive oil or water is thus observed. The resistance is evaluated according to the following scale: +++: no damage to the deposit, which is as it was originally; ++: a little bit of transfer but the deposit is as it was originally; +: the deposit is slightly altered and some transfer is observed; 0: the deposit is completely degraded and there is a lot of transfer onto the cotton. Example 1: Compound 1 with ACAC functional groups with crosslinking agent 1! amine in ethanol — Î gesture [Table 1]: — 1 step [Table 1]: |ingredients [Composition A° (% ma*) |Composition A (% ma*) jme 1 to function [io [io ACAC Crosslinking 1 amine | jo Pigment: iron oxide 3 3 Ethanol + + I. # 387 * active ingredient Result after application in 1 step: [Table 2]: | Properties | Fragmentation | [Olive Oil Resistance 0 [Properties |Fragmentation Resistance [Water Resistance |Olive Oil Resistance Sebum Comp. A 0 0 0 0 Comp. A' ++ +++ +++ +++ It appears that applying composition A according to the process of the invention significantly improves the persistence with respect to olive oil, of sebum and water, In addition the fragmentation test is significantly better than that obtained with the reference composition A°. Example 2: Molecule 1 crosslinked with amino compound 1 in isododecane / ethanol — 1 step [Table 3]: [Ingredients _ [Composition B(% ma*) Compound 1 with ACAC function 20 Crosslinking agent 1 amine 20 Pigment: iron oxide 3 Isododecane 15 Ethanol e * active ingredient Result after application in 1 step: [Table 4]: Olive oil resistance |Properties |Fragmentation Resistance [Water Resistance |Olive Oil Resistance Sebum Comp. B [+++ [+++ [+++ days It appears that the application of composition B according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain very high-performance cosmetic results. Example 3: Compound 1 with amine crosslinking agent 2 in hydroalcoholic solvent — 1 step [Table 5]: Ingredients Composition C (% ma) Compound 1 with function ACAC 20 Crosslinking 2 Amino acid APTES 20 |Pigment: iron oxide 3 Water (pH= 1) € Ethanol 1 Result after application in 1 step: [Table 6]: | Properties Water resistance [Sebum and olive oil resistance] It appears that applying composition C according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain very effective water, olive oil, and sebum resistance. Example 4: Compound 6 with ACAC function with crosslinking agent 8 Polyacrylate + catalyst — 1 step [Table 7]: [Ingredients Composition D° (% Composition D(% maa.*) ma*) Compound 6 with ACAC function |25 25 Crosslinker 8 polyacrylate | qr Pigment: yellow iron oxide |S 5 [preacorse |- To -7-ene water / ethanol 50 / 50 v / v re 52.5 * active ingredient, Result after application in 1 step: [Table 8]: [Properties | Scotch tape test | Fragmentation Resistance [Water resistance | Olive oil Comp. D° 0 0 0 0 Comp. D fr fs ++ +++ Comp. D +++ +++ I +++ It appears that the application of composition D according to the process of the invention significantly improves the persistence with respect to olive oil and water. Furthermore, the Scotch tape and fragmentation tests are significantly better than those obtained with the reference composition D°. Example 5: Compound 6 with dicarbonyl crosslinking agent 9 + catalyst — 1 step [Table 9]: LE EE 71€ | Ingredients fon E° (% [Composition E (% ma*) | ma*) Compound 6 with ACAC function | 25 5 Dicarbonyl crosslinker 9 | 11,6 [sprint | 05 -ene Pigment: yellow iron oxide |5 5 Water / ethanol! 50 / 50 v / v 70 57.9 * active ingredient, Result after application in 1 step: [Table 10]: | Properties | Fragmentation Scotch tape test 0 1 [Resistance Resistance Olive oil Water 0 0 Comp.E° jo qe 0 0 Comp. E +++ +++ +++ +++ It appears that the application of composition E according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a very effective olive oil retention, and the scotch tape and fragmentation tests are also very effective. Example 6: Compound 3 with ACAC function with amine crosslinker 3 then with amine crosslinker 6 — 2 steps [Table 11]: | Ingredients Composition F° (% g Composition F (% g ma*) maa.*) 25 25 Compound 3 with ACAC function 8 fo D&CRed7 3-Amine Crosslinking Agent Solvent: Water / Ethanol 5 5 65 * active ingredient [Table 12]: Composition G (% ma*) | Ingredients 2nd STEP Crosslinking 6-amino | Isododecane 5.95 * active ingredient Results after application in 1 or 2 steps! | Properties |Fragmentation Scotch tape test | |Sebum resistance | 5 + 0 Composition F then G (2 gestures) |+++ Composition F° (1 gesture) 0 It appears that applying composition F followed by G in two steps according to the process of the invention results in a very effective residual effect on olive oil and sebum. The same is true for the Scotch tape and fragmentation tests, which are also effective. Example 7: Compound 3 with ACAC function using amine crosslinker 3 followed by amine crosslinker 4 — 2 steps [Table 13]: Composition F (% g ma*) Ingredients: GESTE Compound 3 with ACAC function, D&C Red 7, 3-amino crosslinker, Solvent: Water / ethanol [Table 14]: [Table 15]: Composition H (% ma*) Ingredients 2nd STEP Crosslinking 4-amine [eme 5.95 * active ingredient Result after application in 2 steps: [Table 16]: |Properties |Fragmentation Resistance Olive oil resistance |sebum Composition F then H [+ [++ [++ It appears that applying composition F then H in two steps according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a residual effect on olive oil and sebum. The same is true for the fragmentation test. Example 8: Compound 3 with ACAC function using amine crosslinker 3 followed by thiolated crosslinker 7 — 2 steps The procedure was carried out as in example 7 with an initial step performed with composition F except that the second gesture was carried out with composition I instead of composition H. [Table 17]: Composition I (% ma*) [Ingredients 2nd STEP Crosslinking 7-thiol Isododecane] 5.95 * active ingredient Result after application in 2 steps: [Table 18]: | Properties |Fragmentation Scotch tape test Resistance | Sebum and water resistance Olive oil resistance [+++ [++ [+++ [+++ [+++ Composition FpuisI Example 9: Compound! with ACAC functions with 3-amino crosslinking agent then 3-amino crosslinking agent — 2 steps [Table 19]: Ingredients Composition J° (% g ma*) Compound 1 with ACAC function | 25 D&C Red 7 8 Solvent: Water / ethanol mo [Table 20]: Composition J (% g ma*) Ingredients for the GESTE compound: ACAC D&CRed7 function, 3-amino crosslinker, water / ethanol [Table 21]: Ingredients Composition K (% ma*) * active ingredient Result after application in 1 or 2 steps: [Table 22]: | Properties | Test of | Fragmentation Test of |Fragmentation Resistance |Resistance |Resistance to tape, oil, sebum, and water 1 | Olive oil resistance | Compositions J jrs [rs [+ [++ [+ then K (2 gestures) Composition Jo eo eo Jo Jo Je It appears that applying composition J and then K in two steps, according to the process of the invention, results in significantly better resistance to olive oil, sebum, and water than the one-step process using composition J. The same is true for the fragmentation and Scotch tape tests. Residual shine Gloss retention test Compositions comprising an acetoacetate compound, a crosslinker, and a solvent are applied using a wet 100 µm applicator to a Leneta plate. Using a glossmeter, the gloss is measured at a 20° angle of incidence on the plate, then the gloss of the deposit is measured 2 hours and 24 hours after application. Next, 0.5 ml of water is applied to the deposit for 5 minutes, and then the area is rubbed with cotton (15 passes). The gloss is then measured on the treated area. Example 10: Compound 1 with ACAC functional groups and an amine crosslinker 3 [Table 23]: Composition L % ma. Compound 1 with ACAC functions 20 Crosslinking agent 3 amine 17 Ethanol = *my active ingredient [Table 24]: [Brillience card |Brillience after |Brillience after |Brillience after L leneta (UB) 2H (UB) 24H (UB) friction (UB) (Result 452 65.3 64.4 “|62.2 Vs. Scale of |Low Gloss Glossy Glossy gloss gloss (UB) = Unit of gloss The film retains its shine after contact with water or after rubbing.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for treating keratin materials, in one or more steps by applying to said materials: 1) one or more compounds of formula (I) as well as its optical isomers, geometric isomers, its salts, and its solvates such as hydrates: F fe) Fe 5 | 0 a LR R m4 1 Formula (I) in which: R! represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon radical from C> to Cy, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, R! being furthermore: a) optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy OH, amine -N(R), groups, with R representing a (C,-C)alkyl group such as methyl, or carboxy -C(O)-OH, a vinyl group, and / or b) optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, carbonyl -C(O)-, amine -N(R'), or combinations thereof, in which R° represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, or optionally substituted by -XC(O)-C(R,(R;)-C(O)-R? ; R? represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical of C, to Ce, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a group (C,-C4)alkyl such as methyl or tert-butyl more preferably- tially methylated; Rs, and RP, identical or different, represent an atom hydrogen or a (C,-C4)alkyl group, preferably hydrogen; X is a heteroatom or group selected from O, S, N(R') or, -S-CH-C(0)-O-, -OC(O)-CH--S-, -OC(O)-N(R')-, N(R')-C(0)-O-, -N(R')-C(0)-N(R”)-; n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 10, particularly from 3 to 8; and 11) at least one crosslinking agent; and iii) possibly at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

2. Method according to the preceding claim in which the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from those of formula (Ia) as well as their optical isomers, geometric isomers, their salts, and their solvates such as hydrates: SF ss ae y (a pal Formula (Ia) in which: R! is as defined in claim 1, particularly represents a polyvalent C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical of particularly in C,-C,,, preferably in C4-C;, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or not, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or not, R! being in addition: a) optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy OH groups, and / Or b) optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, -N(R'), preferably interrupted by one or several oxygen atoms in which R° is as defined in the re- vindication | ; R? is as defined in claim 1, preferably R? represents a linear or branched (C,-Cs)alkyl group, of preferably a (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or t- Butyl preferably methyl; and n being as defined in claim 1, preferably n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 8.

3. A method according to any preceding claim in which the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) is(are) such that: R! represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon radical in ©; to C3, linear or branched, unsaturated monocyclic or bicyclic, preferably mono- cyclic, and aromatic such as phenyl, or R! represents a polyvalent hydrocarbon radical from C; to C;, saturated mono- cyclic or bicyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, -N(R'), in which R° represents a hydrogen atom, a group alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; preferably R! represents a unit monosaccharide or polysaccharide, especially disaccharide on which n hydroxy groups have been substituted by n - groups OC(O)-CH,-C(O)-R? with R? and n as defined in any previous claim, or R! represents a polyvalent acyclic hydrocarbon radical of C> to C2, preferably C7-Cyp, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated saturated preference; preferably R! represents a mono-saccharide or poly- unit saccharide, especially disaccharide on which n hydroxy groups have been substituted by n groups -OC(O)-CH,-C(O)-R* with R? such that previously defined and n as previously defined.

4. A method according to any preceding claim in which the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) is(are) such that: n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 8, more particularly n denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6, more particularly from 3 to 5.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compound(s) of formula (I) or (Ia) is(are) chosen among : Chemical name Chemical structure fi Ï T 3; $ ee frompcsé! Chemical name CAS No. D Feotidr heptanediyi) ester. | 700865-73-2 | of butanaic acid | æ Foxo-1147,8- octanediyl ester. |es2230-200 ditanaic acid $ $% 5 * 5 3-0x0-$,1-{4,10- decanediyl} ester | 501426-82-8 | of butanoic acid 3 # Fo; {4} VAR INDE EME ESISE Chemical structure. lCRÉCAS | * & 3-oxo-1,f-{4,3- = & % propanediyf) d'acide | Ÿ L î |trasse-06-7 butanoique PT TT TO OT; ' i «$, Re A HE Ï Ÿ 5 % F3] Tox-7bayr2éhyr | re 13propanedsiemes | 3 1 mul |tasu2s-10-5 butanoic dagide 1 AA AT =, >" A SNS A" on and x and TOO _ _ 1.3-propanediy!} $ $ $ ÿ [58213755 (éd baanaa 1 AA AA AA aa 5 Fous 2x dimethyl-1-{1- |sezca-e4 | metutéthu: 3- af na propanediyyj ester i Ÿ $ d'acid butanoique ha La a pu + propanedyl ester î Ï Ÿ Ê of butanoic acid PSS AA . Us 3-oxo-1,1415- ; - pentanediyl) ester ÿ Î $ 2 |356420-0 of butanic acid A. LEA N CAS FRORL EcAPRG Chemical structure {5 (Fox 2 xx % “somomsé Chemical name “CAS {1} [3-0x0- 11-222" +. dimethyl-t,3- |teare-sr-e propanediyl} ester —* butanoic acid |" °° EVE NE 8 © 8 : #: dimethyl-t,3- at 3 Î ; | 14276-67-6 |propanediyl} butanic acid ester | OT OA {2} 3-0xa-1 4-butanediyne & +8 acid ester Ï Ï “ | 13018-41-2 |butanoic | 0 ET Te A na 1van eee 1 8 8 ethanediyl ester Ë Ë |sers-s0s of butanoic acid by LÉ 8 € | 5459-04-1 ë #* 75) |2-6x0-1.2-ethanedifi ua mt acid ester Ÿ Ë > 4 |butanoic p= As ue SES 498) S-OX0- EL EMNBREQT | & 8 Ç ester of acid Î Ï 89-04-41 |butanoic | a 7 Se” 8 V5 Por TIRE s | 2388-18-3 15) 3-ox0-1,.1-{1,6- 9 € hexanediyl) ester Ÿ Ï [205-163 d’acide butansique | TN g LSSS 3-0xo-t1,6-hexanediy È # ester d’acide butanoique (8CH 116) |Qa7-oxobutanute) — de 1,1-[2.2-Bisf(4 3- _ > |320t8-50-3 dloxobutoxy)méthyi- - pl 1.3-propanediyl} î À nes et 5 SX / 8 À {compound} Chemical name s CAS No. 7 Rie(3-oxobutanvate) è 8 de 1.1-{22- Ÿ À |51980-20-2 Bis{hydroxyméthyf}- A ee 1.3-propanediylt An a Rig(3-oxobutanvate)? $ of 1.4{22- A pe 1980-20-2 | Bisihydroxymethyli- | 4 Se ' 1.3-propanediyi} a # ba EU {8} = % Linc® Ps gr, > RAT ® ë {4s) 3-oxe-t,3,5- $ = benzenetriyl ester À À [120973-05-5 of butanoic acid ASS * 1 2? oh LL. (1) 1 | PS green ee {28} TE OS > = (26) 3-0xe-1,2 4- benzenetriyi ester |t25264-06-4 of butanoic acid È Kg” # | i $Ç YU € AA, L À i » ri a} SN LA. ANA AA in Taacetoacetate of T5 [22206250 frimethylofpropane Ag KFLEX 7301 go »# 2 Tracetoacetate of > fimethyloipropane Fa 8 pa259 |Ferateiprop À KFLEX 73014 % $ $ en ä î | Se SS Sp À # {comgosé Ne 'us 5 > jom chemical Chemical structure 2 T- FE eu" 2360524-48- $ 5 . ps say ë& $ te F TY |66229-33-2 D {23} F-0x0-2-butyl-2-[3,3- j doxchuteneimétbuil- 16229-33-2 |4 3-propanediyi butanoic acid ester The À * [butanoic acid The | tr PA TS Po {24} À 4-dimethyl-3-0xe-, | 4 > 1,402 2-bisft4 4 4 5 1579231-50- dimethyd-1,3- ' ro à 3 7 ésxopentilonsimoih | jm} YÈ-T,3-propanediyl} sf su pd ester of pi TE Î pentanoic acid. X à ù 8 à y + {24} À 4-dimethyl-3-0xe-, 1 f en 4-42 2-bis[it4 4" | turned to 187$234-50- | dimethyl-1.3- tof : + ; ésxopentilonsimoit | £ Bees AA {-1,3-propanedi ne APR SSSR pe a ST ï us oi i pentanoic. to to a ; é a {25} tia(3-oxobutanoate) $ 2 $ $ de t.1,4"{4,2,3- Ÿ À . î À 5079-58-7 |peopanetriyls PSE a ser IEEE ANR | = to # $ of 11,441.23- Ÿ 2 Ÿ © |o073-ge-7 peopanetriyl PS ASS, age 20 A 08 Ÿ Ù & Ÿ Chemical structure (compound) Chemical name CAS No. {26} meso-erythritol tetraacetoacetate Le91 EUS-ICSIDECSHLE GE & | | meso-erythritol! + 4} +, {° . c LG Su, 555 @7 aD-Glucapyranose, - 1.23 4 6-pentakis:3- | 169533-28-3 | oxobutanoate} gs Ï ; $8 Î lives” Na LE rat 5 rt O0 PA to = s to - sh, {28} 5-amino-2-F2.3 4-tris- os = O-41.3-dioxobetyt{-0- > 8 2254710-55- |xylopyranosylfoxy- ot at 7 of benzoic acid tf Te 5 + se ges ga NA A À Fe # EE CE = =$ mr Chemical Structure , and isoposed) om chemical. N°CAS &28 23,4 8-tetrakis(3- oxobutanaste) de œ- 1236300-t0- |D-Glucopyranoside 8 1,3 4 &-tetrakis-0- £1.3-dloxehatuttF-D- fructofuranosyt, #3 3 59e if the next mark to $ > |A TO AT AT, PRE 4 Ta Ÿ is PEN < AE OX OT is % & | Re {30 B-Glucopyranose. pentakis(3- | 26481-26-4 |axobutancate) Ds z = ft j ga VUS agree Nm gage rs 6 LÀ Sa? 28 8 5 , Gi |D-Guce (ASF # » dorhydro 25bat>| , pÀ0Ï [bessera425 oxobutancate) 44 A, pu£l 4 Seepse” NN £ 05 Ad. À ? rie \ CE Te € pt » + % s TA Ii HS cb, At 7 PTS Step foot E King CRE 4, + f A. me et CASE NUMBER THREE Chemical structure (33) of hexa-acetoacetate of A ? ge fcemanse} | Chemical Name CAS No. G3) hexa-acetoacetate of | sorbitol | Edit C PS ÿ ï $$ 8 € > 5 A ÿ % Ÿ TE ! 28% g + > eh Ps 5 gt for sg é, 5 sos ee 2 {35} D-Glucitol, 4-GBD- = galaciopyranoayl-, Ÿ soost polyacetoncelate Ses < NN. 4 x J < / x tr R” «° # »% *, Rs {38} Sucrose, * TE polyacetacelate ie, 2 H ; qe Eee a, 17° Na s 5 1 to ee \ , z OH mint LA Chemical Structure yes 100 &+ 4 s fcameesé Chemical name CAS number {40} Glucose + poiacetacetate vs *, ç «, / 0 to © % 10 i & ; or 4 st > 3 {st Mannose poiyacetoacetate and % M “x > a et. = No f Pi to => and Xa = t42) You! polyacetoacetate KI &i “e pr >” 8 8 m7 “in 443) Sorhitoi Ua — polyacetacetate > 2” = nt Xe 2° THE NN IS Ai G = 2 is Po Seat RA = H where -C(O}-CH:-C(O)-CH3 it being understood that at least two of the radicals R represent -C{O)-CH,-C{O)-CH3, preferably the 6 radicals R3 are identical and represent | AMV PE PSN PT -C{O)-CH:-C{O-CH3 Chemical structure PR. fronnacÿ> Chemical name CAS No. 44) — at Sa y ri 8” ÿ PONS ë to mr” Sa R4 = Hou -C(O)-CH-C(0)-CH3 it being understood that at least two of the radicals RŸ represent CIOI-CH-CIO\-CHI preferably the 5 - -C{O)-CH.-C{O)-CH3, preferably the 5 AT radicals are identical and represent -EXG}-CH,-C{O-CH3 7%5) ras 5 © rar qq | Ad | H « to to 8) 2552365 5; | ; ; | PP Se” | VIN ESP EEE Te E” {47} 4396 14-56-5 i Î Î Î (SES SSES $ ÿ @s) |56169-35-1 î 3 My ae s + _ — S $ ; AU i UA $ $ in which RI, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a group -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH, it being understood that at least two radicals RI represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH;, preferably at least three radicals R1 represent -C(O)-CH,-C(O)-CH,, More preferably the compounds chosen from (18), (41) and (44).

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the crosslinking agent(s) ii) is (are) chosen from the compounds: (poly)amines, (poly)thiolated, (poly)carbonylated, (poly)acrylates, and / or metal alkoxide, (and their mixtures, and preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiolated and (poly)acrylate compounds and their mixtures.

7. A method according to any preceding claim in in which the crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from compounds (poly)amines chosen from a) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine), b) polyether diamines particu- lly polyethylene glycol to, w-diamine (with function amine at the end of the chain) and the 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,1-tridecanediamine, c) polyethers triamines such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), d) ami- noalkoxysilanes such as APTES and e) polydialkyl- siloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of chain or on side chains, particularly polidi- methylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups such as poly(dimethoxysiloxane) terminated with bis(3-aminopropyl) (PDMS-diNH;) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains such as as bis-cetearyl amodimethicone; And (poly)thiolated selected from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, and b) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions, par- are particularly chosen from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions preferentially polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain (such as mercaptopropyl) in particular those of formula (XIII) Re-Si(Rb)(Re)-O-[Si(R«)(Re)-O],-[Si(RP)(ALK,-SH)-O],-Si(RP)(Re)-R# (XIII) Formula (XIIT) in which: Rs, and RP, are as defined in formula (XI) and R* is such as defined for R: and RP, preferably R*, RP, and Ré, identical, represent a (C,-Cs)alkyl group such that methyl, Re can also represent a (C,-Cs)alkyl group substituted by a (C,-C4)alkylamino or amino group, or thiol, preferably (C,-C,)alkyl such as methyl; ALK, represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, even- permanently interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such than oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen (especially O), a group (thio)carbonyl C(X) with X representing O, or S, or their as- associations such as —O—, —-OC(O)- or —C(O)-O-, of preferably ALK, represents a (C,-Cs)alkylene group, plus preferentially (C,-C4)alkylene such as propylene; net m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of said polyorgan- nosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol!; (poly)acrylate of formula (XIV) L[-YC(O)-C(R:)=CH2]; (XIV) Formula (XIV) in which: q, represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, of preference n is inclusively between 2 and 10, of preference between 2 and 5; L denotes a multivalent group (at least divalent). in par- particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon atoms and / or silicon, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon atoms and / or silicon, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being possibly interrupted and / or terminated by one or several heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their associations such as —O-, —OC(X)-, N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(R.)(R4)-O- with R representing an atom hydrogen or a (C,-Cs)alkyl group such as methyl; and / Or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(R,)R,, and {(X),-CO)-{X Ra; with X, X' and X', identical or different, represent an atom of oxygen, sulfur, or a group N(R,); a, and b being equal to A or 1, of preferably the sum of a + b is worth ! ; R, and R,, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (C,-Cs)alkyl, or aryl(C,-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, of preferably R, and R, represent a hydrogen atom; and R. and Ra, identical or different, represent a (C,-C«)alkyl, aryl(C,-C 4)alkyl or (C,-Cs)alkoxy. Re representing a hydrogen atom or (C,-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably R* represents an atom of hydrogen, and ŸY representing an oxygen atom or an amino group - N(H)-, preferably O being as defined above, of preferably Y = O and R* = H, preferably L represents a di or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and R° represents an atom of hydrogen; preferably the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

8. A method according to any preceding claim which involves in work iii) one or more cosmetic agent(s) chosen from (a) coloring materials such as pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, b) the active ingredients for the care of keratin materials, skin preference, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures; preferably at least one cosmetic agent is chosen from the materials coloring agents, preferably chosen from pigments, dyes direct and their mixtures, more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides including yellow, red and black and iron oxide coated micas, triaryimethane pigments, particularly blue and purple ones such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, especially red ones such as D&C RED 7 alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, even more preferably iron oxides red, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, especially red such as D&C RED 7.

9. A method according to any preceding claim which implements in work iv) one or more fatty substances, particularly one or several oils, preferably volatile.

10. | A method according to any preceding claim which implements in work iv) one or more volatile oil(s) chosen from: * hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably : - branched C;-C,s alkanes such as isoalkanes such as iso- alkanes such as C,;-C,; Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane, more preferably isododecane; - linear alkanes, for example C,,-C15, Alone or in mixtures, by example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isopa- refined such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n- tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof as well as mixtures of n-undecane {C11) and n-tridecane (C13); - volatile, non-aromatic, Cs-Cs2 cyclic alkanes; * short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total such as than ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; * carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R°,-OC(O)-O-R', in which R°, and R'; independently denote an alkyl group C4-C; linear, branched or cyclic, preferably a C alkyl group; -C,, advantageously chosen from dibutylcarbonate or dipentyl- carbonate; *# ether oils of formula R,-OR; in which R, and R, denote independently a C,-C alkyl group; linear, branched or cyclic, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group; “silicone oils comprising in particular, from 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, these silicone oils possibly comprising groups alkyl or alkoxy having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as dime- thicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSk, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dode- camethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cy- clotetrasiloxane, decamethyl] cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cy- clohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl tri- siloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, de- camethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and their mixtures; more preferably the volatile oil(s) iv) are chosen from Cg-Cy5 alkanes, in particular branched ones such as isododecane.

11. | Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, which uses: a composition, called “Cl”, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in a any of claims 1 to 5 and optionally iii) to less one cosmetic active ingredient as defined in any claims 1 or 8; a composition, called “C2”, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in a any of claims 1 to 5 and ii) at least one agent crosslinker as defined in any one of the claims indications 1, 6 or 7 and possibly iii) at least one active such as defined in any one of claims 1 or 8; a composition, called “C3”, comprising 1) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in a any of claims | to 5, ii) at least one re- crosslinker as defined in any one of the claims 1, 6 or 7 and iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined in any one of claims 1 or 8; and / or a composition “C4” comprising ii) at least one re- crosslinker as defined as defined in any of the claims 1, 6 or 7 and optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined in any of the resale indications 1 or 8; a “C5” composition comprising iii) at least one active ingredient cosmetic as defined in any of the resale indications 1 or 8 and below; it being understood that: the method implements together or separately i) at least a compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in a any of claims | to 5 and ii) at least one agent crosslinker as defined in any one of the claims indications 1, 6 or 7; and compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5 may be anhydrous, aqueous such as hydroalcoholic and / or include one or several fatty substances iv) as defined in the claims 9 or 10.

12. The method of claim 11 which is performed in one gesture by ap- application of composition C2 or C3 as defined in the claim indication 11 on keratin materials.

13. Method according to claim 11 which is carried out in two gestures by ap- plication successive application, on keratin materials, of two different compositions for example C1 and C4, or C2 and C4, or C3 and CA, preferably CI then C4, C2 then C4, or C3 then C4 such that defined in claim 11.

14. Method according to claim 11 which is carried out in three gestures by ap- successive plications, on keratin materials, either ") of a composition C1, then 3) of a composition C4, then y) of a composition C5 as defined in the resale- indication 11, preferably C1 then C4 respectively C5 then CS respectively C4; either (a) of a composition C4, and (a) of a composition C1 or C2, and then y) of a composition CS as defined in the claim 11, preferably composition C4 is applied before composition C1.

15. A method according to claim 11 or 13 which is a method of ma- keel of keratinous materials, particularly of the skin in particular lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, including the se- quantitative: - of a composition C1 as defined in claim 11; then - of a composition C4 as defined in claim 11; it being understood that compositions C1 and / or C4 contain at least a coloring matter as defined in claim 8, preferably at least one pigment. more preferably the composition C1 comprises at least one pigment; Or - of a composition C1 as defined in claim 11; then - of a composition C4 as defined in claim 11; then - of a composition C5 as defined in claim 11; it being understood that the compositions Cl and / or C4 and / or C5 contain at least at least one coloring matter as defined in claim 8, preferably at least one pigment, more preferably the composition C5 includes at least one pigment.

16. Composition C1, as defined in claim 11, of preferably aqueous or hydroalcoholic, which comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in any of claims | to 5 and iii) possibly at least one asset such as defined in claim 1 or 8, preferably at least one material coloring agent, such as at least one pigment; and optionally iv) one or several fatty substances as defined in claim 9 or 10.

17. Composition C2, as defined in claim 11, of preferably aqueous or hydroalcoholic, which comprises i) at least one compound of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in any of claims | to 5, ii) at least one crosslinker as defined in a any of claims |, 6 or 7 and iii) optionally at least an asset as defined in claim 1 or 8; and optionally iv) one or more fatty substances as defined in claim 9 or 10.

185. Composition C3 as defined in claim 11, which includes iii) one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) as defined in claim 1 or 8 and optionally iv) one or more bodies fat as defined in claim 9 or 10.

19. Cosmetic use of composition C1, C2 or C3 according to claim- dication 16 to 18, in particular for the treatment of keratin- tinics, in particular for the makeup of keratin materials in particular the skin such as lips, eyelashes or eyebrows.

20. Multi-compartment kit, in particular cosmetic, comprising: - at least one compartment containing at least one ingredient i) of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in any one of the re- indications 1 to 5 and possibly at least Lii) a cosmetic active ingredient such as as defined in any one of claims 1 or 8, in particular comprising composition C1 as defined in claim 11 ; - at least one compartment separate from that which contains 1) and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined in any one of claims 1, 6, and 7 optionally iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined in any one of claims 1 or 8, in particular containing composition C4 as defined in claim 11; and - optionally, at least one compartment distinct from those which contain i) and ii) and containing iii) at least one cosmetic active ingredient as defined in any one of claims 1 or 8, identical to or different from that / those possibly contained in the compartments comprising i) of formula (I) or (Ia) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 and ii) at least one crosslinking agent as defined in any one of claims 1, 6, and 7.