Composition comprising a natural or naturally derived coloring matter, reflective glitter, at least one oil and / or solid fat, and process for its application

Abstract

Composition comprising a natural or naturally derived coloring matter, reflective glitter, at least one oil and / or a solid fat, and a method for implementing it. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one natural or naturally derived coloring matter; (ii) at least one material with an optical effect distinct from the coloring matter (i) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or at least one solid fat, or a mixture thereof; (iv) optionally water at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Title of the invention: eDescription Title: Composition comprising a natural or naturally derived coloring matter, reflective glitter, at least one oil and / or solid fat, and a method for implementing it technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, and in particular of the lips, new compositions which are particularly interesting with regard to the aesthetic performance, and in particular in terms of colour effects, which they provide to the user when applied to them, in particular on the lips. Previous technique

[0002] In general, cosmetic compositions must provide an aesthetic effect, and in particular a color effect, when applied to the skin and / or lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time.

[0003] Thus, the development of new formulations dedicated to makeup and / or lip care, possessing advantageous properties and aesthetics, is a permanent objective.

[0004] Skincare and / or makeup compositions generally include synthetic coloured species, soluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0005] In particular, glitter can be used in cosmetic compositions to obtain colour and shine effects.

[0006] US patent application 2019 / 0314261 A1 describes novel reflective glitter based on cellulose or its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate. Compositions containing such glitter exhibit particularly advantageous sensory qualities, including brilliance, softness, and coverage.

[0007] However, the use of glitter in cosmetic compositions can also produce undesired colour and shine effects, which are insufficient or even considered unsightly under certain conditions. Description of the invention

[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide cosmetic compositions containing reflective glitter, in order to take advantage of their cosmetic properties, but without the insufficient color and visual effects that can result from their use.

[0009] The present invention aims in particular to propose new compositions Colored cosmetics containing reflective glitter to create unique and pleasant shimmering effects on keratinous materials, particularly the lips. These formulations must also exhibit good stability and sensory characteristics, while being environmentally friendly.

[0010] The present invention also aims to provide compositions obtained from natural components of natural origin.

[0011] Indeed, consumer habits and expectations are increasingly shifting towards products that are more environmentally friendly, particularly those of natural origin.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new compositions, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0013] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Summary of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one natural or naturally derived colouring substance; (ii) at least one optical effect material distinct from the colouring material (i) selected from reflective glitters comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone-based, or at least one solid fat, or a mixture thereof; (iv) possibly water with a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the compositions according to the invention, comprising a natural or naturally derived coloring matter, at least one oil and / or solid fat, and optionally water in a limited amount, make it possible to obtain surprising color and visual effects in the presence of reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or one of its derivatives. In particular, it is possible to obtain colored brilliance effects different from that of the reflective glitter.

[0016] In particular, the use of reflective glitter, for example silver glitter, in a composition according to the invention, makes it possible to obtain surprisingly colored, rather than silver, reflections, for example gold or pink, which are pleasing to the eye. both visually and aesthetically for the user when applying the composition to keratinous materials. Similarly, and unexpectedly, the incorporation of these glitter particles into the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain novel and aesthetically pleasing color and visual effects.

[0017] This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

[0018] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows. Detailed description

[0019] The composition according to the invention is cosmetic and generally suitable for topical application to the skin. It therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., one compatible with the skin.

[0020] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0021] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0022] Natural or naturally derived colouring matter (i)

[0023] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one colouring material (i) natural or of natural origin.

[0024] By “natural” compound is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or from a biotechnological process, in particular from cell or microbiological cultures, for example of fungi or bacteria.

[0025] The term "naturally derived compound" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of the compound, and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as described above. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Cosmos (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, version 3.1 of June 1, 2020) or possibly defined by the Afnor 16-128 standard.

[0026] According to the invention, a compound is considered more particularly to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the weight ratio of natural constituents to non-natural constituents that compose it is greater than 1.

[0027] The natural or naturally derived colouring matter is more particularly chosen from among anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, carotenoids, apocarotenoids, caramel, tannins, curcuminoids, flavonoids, carmine, betanin, riboflavin, spirulina, quinizarin, sandalwood, and chlorophyll, and preferably from among anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, carotenes, in particular beta-carotene, lycopene, xanthophylls, in particular capsanthin, capsorubin and lutein, annatto, curcumin, bixin, norbixin, spirulina, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] The colouring material(s) may be water-soluble or fat-soluble.

[0029] Water-soluble colouring material, and more generally water-soluble compound, means a colouring material or compound having a solubility in water, measured at 25 °C, of ​​at least 0.01 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, coloured or not).

[0030] The term liposoluble colouring material, and more generally liposoluble compound, means a colouring material or compound having a solubility in one or more fats, measured at 25 °C, of ​​at least 0.01 g / l.

[0031] Natural or naturally derived colouring materials may be in powder form, in extract form, in dispersion or in solution form in at least one oil, preferably non-volatile, advantageously of ester type, or even a vegetable oil, or in emulsion form, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0032] They may optionally be used in the form of composite pigments or lacquers. This type of coloring material (composite pigments, lacquers) is described later in the description and reference may be made to it. Preferably, if the natural or naturally derived coloring material(s) is / are in such a form, it / they may be combined with at least one compound, preferably natural or of natural origin, chosen for example from clays, such as montmorillonites, maltodextrins, starch, aluminum salts, alum, alone or in mixtures.

[0033] As proanthocyanidins, the following proanthocyanidins could be particularly suitable for carrying out the invention: Al, A2, Bl, B2, B3 and CL

[0034] Anthocyanins are substituted glycoside salts and acyl glycosides of 2-phenylbenzopyrilyum.

[0035] Anthocyanidins are algycone compounds of anthocyanins.

[0036] The basic structure of anthocyanidins consists of a chromane nucleus (C6-cycle A and C3-cycle C) and a second aromatic cycle (C6-cycle B) in position 2, as represented in the formula below. [Chem.l]

[0037]

[0038] 1 Pelargonium (Pg) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=H; R4'=OH; R5'=H

[0039] 2 Cyanidin (Cy) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=OH; R4'=OH; R5'=H

[0040] 3 Delphinidin (Dp) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=OH; R4'=OH; R5'=OH

[0041] 4 Peonidin (Pn) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=0me; R4'=OH; R5'=H

[0042] 5 Petunidin (Pt) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=0me; R4'=OH; R5'=OH

[0043] 6 Malvidin (Mv) R3=OH; R5=OH; R6=H; R7=OH; R3'=0me; R4'=OH; R5'=0me

[0044] The different anthocyanidins differ in the number and position of the hydroxyl and / or methyl ether groups linked to their position 3, 5, 6, 7, 3', 4' and / or 5'.

[0045] More than thirty-one monomeric anthocyanidins have been identified. However, 90% of naturally occurring anthocyanins are represented by six structures (30% cyanidins (2), 22% delphinidins (3), 18% pelargonidins (1) and for the remaining 20% ​​peonydines (4), malvidins (6) and petunidins (5)).

[0046] These six anthocyanidins are the best known anthocyanidins.

[0047] The colour of anthocyanidins differs with the number of hydroxyl groups attached to the molecules and more particularly present at the level of ring B.

[0048] The color of the molecule changes from orange to violet with the number of hydroxyl motifs present on its structure.

[0049] Glycosylation of anthocyanidins has the effect of stimulating their red color, while the presence of blue aromatic or aliphatic acyl motifs has an essential effect on their stability and solubility.

[0050] These colorants can in particular be characterized by the following CAS numbers: 134-01-1, 134-04-3, 528-53-0, 528-28-5, 643-84-5, 1429-30-7, 11029-12-2, etc... and defined by "CTFA - International Color Handbook", Third Edition, CTFA, p. 856-857.

[0051] These colorants can be found in many plants such as, for example, aronia, bilberry, cranberry, purple or black carrot, blackcurrant, cherry, red cabbage, poppy, strawberry, geranium, pomegranate, hibiscus, purple corn, blueberry, sweet potato, red radish, black grape, sorghum, elderberry.

[0052] Preferably, the colorants are chosen from those derived from radish (INCI name: Raphanus Sativus Root Extract), sweet potato (INCI name: Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract).

[0053] The colorants used in the context of the present invention can be in powder form, in extract form, in solution form, in emulsion form or in dispersion form.

[0054] Among the commercial products suitable for carrying out the invention, we can mention the products CD Radish Red Powder C (Omya), Natpure Xfine Red Radish or Natpure Xfine Purple Sweet Potato (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies), Microzest 25 Carrot Pink (Lessonia), New Red 1805 (Naturex).

[0055] The colorants described in application WO 2017 / 162599 may also be suitable. In particular, the natural colorants used in this patent application may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising the colorant in the aqueous phase, in the presence of a vegetable oil, such as coconut oil, and a polymeric surfactant with an HLB between 3 and 7 and a molecular weight greater than 800, such as Polyglycerol 6 polyricinoleate.

[0056] Among the xanthophyll dyes, examples include capsanthin, cap-sorubin, astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, diatoxanthin, flavoxanthin, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, fucoxanthin, and lutein.

[0057] Other examples of carotenoids include beta-carotenes, lycopenes, and crocin. Among apocarotenoids, bixin and norbixin can be mentioned.

[0058] With regard to curcuminoids, one can cite curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin.

[0059] Also suitable among the flavonoids are catechin, epicatechin gallate, quercetin, luteolin; neoflavonoids such as brazilin, brazilein, derivatives of hematoxilin (logwood black), hematein, chalcones.

[0060] Among the tannins, we can mention hydrolyzable tannins such as ella-gitannins, condensed tannins.

[0061] These colorants can be found in many animal and plant species, such as crustaceans, shrimp, krill; green, brown or red algae; certain plants such as tomato, yellow to red pepper, corn, orange peel, annatto, saffron, turmeric, paprika, dandelion, marigold, gardenia, extracts of oak, quebracho, logwood, pemambouc, among other things.

[0062] Also suitable are betanine, ribloflavin, caramel, carmine, spirulina, quinizarin (madder), sandalwood, and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

[0063] According to one embodiment of the invention, said natural or naturally derived colouring material(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Optical effect material (ii) selected from reflective glitter

[0065] As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one optical effect material (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprising cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative.

[0066] More particularly, said reflective particles are chosen from among non-coloured, coloured, holographic, multicoloured or silver reflective particles, preferably holographic or silver.

[0067] By "holographic effect" is more particularly an effect with color changes, producing for example iridescent rainbow colors.

[0068] For the purposes of this invention, "reflective glitter" refers to small particles comprising a sheet or film on which at least one metallic species, in particular aluminum, is deposited. Reflective particles can take on a wide variety of shapes. For example, glitter can be cubic, platelet, or needle-shaped, or it can be formed or cut to a specific shape, such as a hexagon, oval, circle, square, etc.

[0069] The sequins have, in particular, a maximum diameter size in the principal direction of particle extension. This diameter ranges in particular from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably from 100 pm to 400 pm.

[0070] In particular, the glitter according to the invention comprises a support containing at least 60% by weight of cellulose and / or one of its derivatives.

[0071] Cellulose derivatives can be selected from cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose propionates, cellulose acetate propionates, cellulose butyrates, cellulose acetate butyrates, regenerated celluloses or cellulose hydrates, such as cellophane, and mixtures of two or more cellulose derivatives.

[0072] It is not excluded that the flakes may also be composed of other additional products, distinct from cellulose and its derivatives, such as po- acid lylactic acid (PLA), polyvinyl alcohol, polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) or polybutylene adipate terephthalate.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 70% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 80% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and preferably at least 90% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the sequins according to the invention comprises at least 95% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, in particular at least 99% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, preferably at least 99.5% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives, and even more preferably at least 99.9% by weight of cellulose or its derivatives.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose or one of its derivatives, more preferably, the support for the glitter is exclusively composed of cellulose or cellulose acetate.

[0076] However, the glitter carrier may also include additives such as anti-blocking or lubricating agents. The glitter carrier may contain from 0% to 2.5% by weight of additives, more preferably from 0% to 1% by weight of additives.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, the support may also be free of additives.

[0078] The glitter support is also coated with a metallic pigment, in particular an aluminum pigment, a copper pigment, a silver pigment, a gold pigment, or an alloy of these metals. More preferably, the metallic pigment is an aluminum pigment.

[0079] The glitter can be coated on one side, two sides or entirely.

[0080] The glitter according to the invention is, in particular, silver or with a holographic effect graphic, and advantageously biodegradable.

[0081] Such reflective glitter is described in particular in US applications 2020 / 0214951 and US 2019 / 0314261.

[0082] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the glitter is chosen from the glitter marketed by Sigmund Lindler, preferably from the glitter marketed by Sigmund Lindler under the names Biosparkle® and Pure nature®.

[0083] Preferably, the reflective glitter is chosen from uncoloured particles or particles with a holographic or silver effect, preferably with a holographic or silver effect.

[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose or cellulose acetate, and more preferably cellulose acetate.

[0085] Preferably, the glitter comprises a support comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose or cellulose acetate.

[0086] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises glitter composed of cellulose or cellulose acetate, silvered and biodegradable.

[0087] More specifically, the glitter used is Sigmund Lindler glitter, more specifically glitter from the BioSparkle® and Pure Nature® ranges.

[0088] According to one embodiment of the invention, said optical effect material(s) (ii) selected from reflective glitter comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils and / or solid fats (iii)

[0089] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or at least one solid fat, or a mixture thereof.

[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil (iii).

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, said oil(s), non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or said solid fat(s), or mixtures thereof, is / are present in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Non-volatile oils

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil.

[0093] By "oil" is meant liquid compounds, immiscible in water, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa).

[0094] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0095] The term "hydrocarbon oil" classically refers to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the invention contain only atoms of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and possibly nitrogen.

[0096] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. Liquid polyester

[0097] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0098] Liquid polyester is understood to mean polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25 °C).

[0099] In the context of the present invention, "unsaturated fatty acid" means fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bond).

[0100] Representative examples of these unsaturated fatty acids include palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0101] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by intermolecular polymerization reaction, in particular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially at C16-C22, and more particularly at C18.

[0102] In particular, the liquid polyester used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by total or partial hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds, preferably total.

[0103] It can also be obtained from a mixture containing it. In such a case, it is preferable to use a mixture in which the content of this diacid dimer is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferably greater than 95% by weight, the remainder of the mixture being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0104] Furthermore, according to a first embodiment of the invention, the liquid polyester can be obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one C3-C4 diol, preferably linear, preferably saturated.

[0105] Preferably, the diol is 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

[0106] In particular, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferably between 1200 and 1800 g / mol.

[0107] More specifically, polyesters have a viscosity between 3000 and 400,000 cSt at 40 °C.

[0108] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or of dilinoleic acid and 1,3-propanediol.

[0109] We can cite in particular the dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H, the dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast Green 3000.

[0110] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the liquid polyester can be obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is in the form Ci6-C32, preferably in Ci6-C22*.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" refers more particularly to saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above.

[0112] It should be noted that the diol dimer may also contain other components, for example, a triol trimer, a monoalcohol, and ether-like compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimeric acid and / or its lower alcohol ester, used as a raw material. Products with a diol dimer content exceeding 70% by weight may be used, but a high-purity diol dimer is preferred, such as a compound with a diol dimer content exceeding 90% by weight.

[0113] Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid in particular in Ci6 to C32, such as those mentioned above, in particular in Ci6 to C22, and more particularly in Ci8.

[0114] According to a particular embodiment, the diol dimer is derived from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of dilinoleic diacid.

[0115] More specifically, this refers to the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acidic functions. The diol dimer may be in saturated form, i.e., containing no carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, any carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are all or partially hydrogenated after esterification of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer. Hydrogenated forms, particularly fully hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

[0116] By way of illustration of esters suitable for the invention, the following products (INCI name) may be cited in particular: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate marketed in particular by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as liquid polyester, at least one compound (INCI names), alone or in mixtures, selected from Dimer Di-linoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 40% to 70% by weight of liquid polyester(s) obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 40% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] According to one variant, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil (iii) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0120] According to one embodiment, the oil (iii) is selected from non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and preferably saturated.

[0121] Non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0122] Said nonpolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin and in particular selected from: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly those containing Ci5-C28, especially mixtures with INCI names such as: C1549 Alkane (INCI name), Ci8 2i Alkane (INCI name), C2i_28 Alkane (INCI name), such as the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, and Emogreen L19 marketed by Seppic, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the products in the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - Polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, - Polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range marketed by ExxonMobil, - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0123] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil (iii) is selected from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils.

[0124] More particularly, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or of (poly)glycerolated groups.

[0125] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0126] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is selected from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl di-methicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] These products are marketed in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning, Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures.

[0128] Preferably, the non-volatile oil (iii) is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosane, C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and mixtures thereof, and / or from non-phenylated silicone oils selected from dimethicone, phenylated silicones, in particular trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from said non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils. Polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils

[0129] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, as well as their mixtures. Vegetable oils

[0130] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from vegetable oils, and their mixtures.

[0131] Examples of vegetable oils include those selected from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, and oil of pumpkin, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, castor oil, lesquerella oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and their mixtures.

[0132] Preferably, the vegetable oil is not chosen from castor oil and lesquerella oil. More particularly, the vegetable oil is chosen from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, alone or in mixtures. Non-hydroxylated ester oils

[0133] According to one embodiment, the oil (iii) is selected from ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 70 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic.

[0134] More specifically, said esters are chosen from monoesters and polyesters, other than the aforementioned liquid polyesters, such as for example: - monoesters, saturated or unsaturated, of monocarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, in particular Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate of alcohols in the 2 to 5 groups, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, palmitate of 2-Ethylhexyl, 2-Hexyldecyl laurate, 2-Octyldecyl palmitate, 2-Octyldodecyl myristate, - Diesters, for example, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene dioctanoate glycol, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, - Tricarboxylic acid and monoalcohol triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, - total esters of glycerin, diglycerin, pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, capric acid triglyceride alone or in mixtures, such as capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, Ci8-36 acid triglycerides, decyl-2 tetradecanoate triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate (INCI name, for example Supermol L products from Croda), - and mixtures thereof. Hydroxylated ester oils

[0135] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil (iii) is selected from hydroxylated esters, in particular from hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 20 to 70, such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate.

[0136] Examples also include partial esters of glycerin or polyglycerin comprising 2 to 8 glycerol units, such as glycerin stearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 dii-sostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof. Ether or carbonate oils

[0137] According to one embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil (iii) can be selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which the R, R' groups, identical or not, represent a hydrocarbon group comprising fewer than 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16. For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned. Fatty alcohol

[0138] According to one embodiment, the oil (iii) is selected from C8-C30 alcohols, more particularly mono-alcohols, liquid at room temperature, saturated or unsaturated, including lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, undecyl pentadecanol alcohol, octyldodecanol, as well as mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as mixtures of C30-C50 alcohols, C20-C40 alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil (iii) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof; more particularly chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils chosen from non-hydroxylated ester oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils preferably with the exception of castor oil, lesquerella oil, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from squalane, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0140] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, of non-volatile oil(s) (iii) selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oils

[0141] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one volatile oil, selected from hydrocarbon or silicone oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0142] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular going to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly going to 1300 Pa.

[0143] Volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (i.e. non-polar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen).

[0144] In particular, they can be chosen from among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, - linear alkanes, for example in Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, and - their mixtures.

[0145] Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0146] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0147] If the composition includes at least one volatile oil, this is more particularly chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from hydrocarbon oils.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises (iii) at least one hydrocarbon or silicone oil in a content greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one volatile oil, its content is preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not include any volatile oil.

[0150] In particular, the content of non-volatile oil(s) may also be up to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0152] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil.

[0153] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from polar hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils non-polar, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0154] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils selected from non-hydroxylated ester oils other than said liquid polyester, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils preferably with the exception of castor oil, lesquerella oil, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils selected from non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than said liquid polyester, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils preferably with the exception of castor oil, lesquerella oil, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] According to a further particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile oil selected from non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, from polar hydrocarbon oils selected from esters comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 70 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, devoid of free hydroxyl group, vegetable oils, preferably with the exception of castor oil, lesquerella oil; dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, alone or in mixtures.

[0157] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from squalane, preferably squalane of vegetable origin, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0158] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil with a content greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] The content of non-volatile oil(s) may also be up to 80% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] The composition according to the invention more particularly comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, at a content ranging from 20% to 70% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] More particularly, the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) other than polyester obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or silicone oil(s) represents from 10% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon oil selected from castor oil, lesquerella oil, hydroxylated esters, and fatty alcohols, then its content is preferably less than 7% by weight, and more particularly less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More precisely, this content would be less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the content of this compound(s) in the composition remains lower than that of the other non-volatile oils previously described that are present in the composition. solid fats

[0163] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fat (iii), in particular selected from waxes, preferably different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, pasty fatty compounds, or mixtures thereof. Waxes

[0164] The composition according to the invention may include at least one wax, preferably different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin - INCI name).

[0165] By waxes, we mean solid fatty compounds, insoluble in water, in particular having a melting point between 40 °C and 120 °C, more advantageously between 45 °C and 100 °C, and even more preferably from 50 °C to 100 °C.

[0166] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0167] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of wax of approximately 5 mg is placed in a "capsule" crucible "Airtight aluminum." The sample is subjected to an initial heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20 °C to 120 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During this second heating, the melting point of the solid fat is measured. This point corresponds to the peak of the most endothermic point on the observed melting curve, representing the variation in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0168] More specifically, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, ester hydrocarbon waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, that is to say, comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure, we can mention in particular polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0170] Among the hydrocarbon ester waxes, we can mention fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total C16-C30 glycerol and carboxylic acid esters, these waxes not comprising a free hydroxyl group, waxes of animal or vegetable origin with the exception of camauba wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0171] In particular, mention may be made of fatty acid ester waxes of the formula Ri COOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen. In particular, cetyl palmitate and C2O-C4O alkyl stearates may be used as waxes. Such waxes are notably sold under the name Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Mixtures of Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols may also be used, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.

[0172] Also suitable as ester waxes are the diesters of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0173] The total esters of a carboxylic acid in C16-C30 can also be used, saturated, with glycerol, for example tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tri-behenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixture.

[0174] Waxes of animal or vegetable origin may also be used, with the exception of camauba wax, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

[0175] It would also be possible to use at least one wax chosen from those obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil. In particular, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, and hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190.Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol include those sold under the names Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 and Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.

[0176] Among the possible waxes, one can also mention fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-triacontanol alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols), and mixtures of C3O-C5O and C2O-C4O alcohols. For example, one can cite the waxes marketed under the name Performacol by NuCera Solutions.

[0177] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one wax other than trihydroxystearin, this is preferably selected from beeswax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] If the composition includes it, the wax content(s) is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly varies from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] If the composition is in a non-solid form, then the wax content(s), if the composition includes, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] If the composition is in solid form, then the wax content(s) is more particularly from 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises at least one wax selected from hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lesquerella oil, canauba wax, alcohol waxes, or mixtures thereof, then its content would preferably be less than 7% by weight, more particularly less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More precisely, this content would be less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] In particular, the content of this / these compound(s) in the composition remains lower than that of the other waxes previously described which are present in the composition.

[0183] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include camauba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lesquerella oil, alcohol waxes, or mixtures thereof. Pasty compounds

[0184] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one paste-like compound, more particularly apolar or polar hydrocarbon.

[0185] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic solid compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point below 25 °C.

[0186] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0187] In the case of a pasty compound, however, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then is cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A pasty fat is said to be in a solid state. A fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0188] Among the pasty compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention Vaseline (INCI name Petrolatum) among the nonpolar hydrocarbon compounds (in other words, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure).

[0189] Among polar pasty hydrocarbon compounds, ester-type compounds are used more particularly.

[0190] Examples include lanolins and their derivatives, such as acetylated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Also suitable are butters of vegetable origin such as shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] We can likewise mention esters derived from pentaerythritol, such as products with INCI names Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate, triglycerides of saturated fatty acids or of hydrogenated fatty acids such as products with INCI names Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, and their mixtures.

[0193] Vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil, can also be used as a paste compound, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as the products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (for example marketed under the name Risocast DA-L, by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) or Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate (marketed in particular under the name Salacos HCISV-L by the company Nisshin OilliO), may be suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0195] Among the paste-like compounds, we can also mention Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name), notably marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, or diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters, such as the products marketed under the Plandool brand such as Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the name Plandool G, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the names Plandool H or Plandool S, marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical Company.

[0196] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the paste compound(s) are selected from vegetable butters, vegetable oils that are totally or partially hydrogenated, preferably partially hydrogenated except for hydrogenated castor oil, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate / Tetraisostearate, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] If the composition includes them, the content of pasty fatty compound(s) will in particular range from 0.5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] According to a first variant, more particularly the content of pasty fatty compound(s) varies from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] According to a second variant, the content of pasty fatty compound(s) varies from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickening agent

[0200] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent. Silicas

[0201] The composition according to the invention may also include, as a lipophilic thickening agent, pyrogenated silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Pyrogenated silica

[0202] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0203] Hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0204] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0205] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material contraction. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0206] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0207] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0208] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0209] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0210] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hy- silica aerogel particles drophobes used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0211] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

[0212] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0213] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0214] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0215] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0216] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100, Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0217] Preferably, aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0218] Preferably, if the composition includes silica, this is chosen from fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Glyceryl trihydroxystearate

[0219] The lipophilic thickening agent usable within the scope of the present invention may also be glyceryl trihydroxystearate (or trihydroxystearin – INCI name), which is therefore the triester of glycerin and 12-hydroxystearic acid. This product is, for example, marketed under the name Thixcin® by Elementis Specialties.

[0220] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, this compound is preferably used in the composition preparation process at a temperature below its melting point. However, it is not excluded to work with it like wax, that is, at a temperature above its melting point.

[0221] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least glyceryl trihydroxystearate. Dextrin esters

[0222] According to another embodiment, the lipophilic thickening agent is chosen from dextrin esters, more particularly, a dextrin and fatty acid ester, preferably in C8-C30.

[0223] More particularly, the dextrin and fatty acid ester corresponds to the formula (I):

[0224] [Chem.2]

[0225] in which: - the Rb radicals R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, or even 12 to 18, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said Rb radicals R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, specifically between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40.

[0226] Preferably, the three radicals RB R2 and R3 are different from hydrogen, leading to dextrin esters having the following formula (II):

[0227] [Chem.3]

[0228] in which: - the radicals R'b, R'2 and R'3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, possessing 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, specifically between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40.

[0229] In particular, the radicals -OCOR'i, -OCOR'2 and / or -OCOR'3 may be selected from among the radicals caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin palmitate and / or dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, notably under the name Rheopearl from Chiba Floor Milling Co. Clays

[0231] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may include at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from clays, natural or synthetic, in particular made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, for example a chloride, in C10 to C22, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0232] They can be chosen from among bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0233] Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites.

[0234] More particularly, the clays are lipophilic and chosen in particular from among the hectorites modified by a halide, in particular chloride, of ammonium in C22 C10, such as the hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.

[0235] If the composition according to the invention included such clays, their content would preferably not exceed 2% by weight, preferably not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise clay, modified or unmodified.

[0237] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated, the glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and preferably glyceryl trihydroxystearate.

[0238] When the composition includes it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent(s) represents more particularly 2% to 10% by weight, preferably 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] It should be noted that if the lipophilic thickening agent is or includes glyceryl trihydroxystearate, then the content of this ingredient is preferably such that it does not exceed 8% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0240] More specifically, the glyceryl trihydroxystearate content ranges from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxylated solvents

[0241] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one hydroxylated solvent, more particularly chosen from mono-alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0242] The hydroxylated solvent may also be selected from C2-C8 liquid polyols at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups. Examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] If the composition contains them, then the content of hydroxylated solvents is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight. Advantageously, if the composition contains them, the content of hydroxylated solvents varies from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0244] It should be noted that if the composition includes water, then the quantity of water and hydroxylated solvents is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydroxylated solvent, in particular selected from mono-alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and polyols that are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 free hydroxylated groups. Additional coloring agents

[0246] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises an additional colouring material distinct from materials (i) and (ii) chosen from pigments or nacres, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from nacres. Mother-of-pearl

[0247] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0248] The nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0249] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0250] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0251] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chromalite and Duochrome (on a mica base) marketed by the Engelhard company, Timiron, Colorona, Microna mother-of-pearls, marketed by the Merck company, Prestige mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the Eckart company and Sunshine synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the Sun Chemical company.

[0252] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to D50 (average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to the person skilled in the art) of at least 70 pm, preferably at least 100 pm.

[0253] By way of example, if the composition contains them, such mother-of-pearl may be present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0254] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one pigment, distinct from the materials (i) and (ii).

[0255] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or gold Organic pigments, insoluble in aqueous or oily media, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0256] These pigments can be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0257] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, we can mention zirconium or cerium oxides, titanium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0258] These pigments may also be organic pigments or in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0259] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0260] Advantageously, the pigments may have undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0261] The hydrophobic treatment agent may, for example, be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoropolyether perfluoroalkyl groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0262] N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0263] The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0264] Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

[0265] Other products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0266] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0267] By way of example, if the composition includes pigments, their content shall remain less than 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. In particular, the composition shall not include pigments. Lacquers

[0268] By "lacquer" is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0269] The lakes can be selected from organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes, in particular azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes.

[0270] The lacquer can be supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.

[0271] On peut notamment citer les laques connues sous les dénominations suivantes : D&C Red n° 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 19 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Aluminium / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red n° 30 lake, D&C Red n° 31 Calcium lake,D&C Red n° 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 36 lake, D&C Red n° 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue n° 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green n° 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n° 10 Aluminum, lake, D&C Orange n° 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n° 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n° 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n° 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminum lake.

[0272] According to a particular embodiment, said lacquer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] In particular, the composition according to the invention does not comprise lacquers. Fillers

[0274] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more fillers conventionally used in makeup and / or skincare compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are distinct from the colorants.

[0275] These charges are colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0276] Whether mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, they impart softness, a matte finish, and uniformity to the makeup composition. Furthermore, these fillers effectively combat various aggressions such as sebum and perspiration.

[0277] By way of illustration of these fillers, the following may be cited: mica, silica, kaolin, poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile chloride like Expacel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789, can also be used.

[0278] In particular, if the composition includes such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.3 to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional components

[0279] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional compound selected from mono- or poly-oxyalkylated derivatives, the alkyl group(s) is / are in C2-C3, mono- or poly-glycerolated, oils, waxes or paste compounds described above, as well as their mixtures.

[0280] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional compound(s).

[0281] If, however, the composition included them, their content would preferably be less than 7% by weight, and more particularly less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More precisely, this content would be less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0282] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the overall content of water and / or hydroxylated solvent(s) and / or additional compound(s) and / or glyceryl trihydroxystearate and / or castor oil, lesquerella oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated and / or carnauba wax and / or fatty alcohol(s), liquid or solid and / or hydroxylated ester oil(s), if one or more are present, is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0283] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may also further contain at least one adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.

[0284] Examples include preservatives, antioxidants, surfactants, moisturizing agents, perfumes, bactericides, etc.

[0285] These additives and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the desired property of the composition of the invention, in particular, they must not impair the stability properties of the color. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of optional additive(s) varies between 2% and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0286] The composition according to the invention is preferably anhydrous, but may optionally include water.

[0287] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a water content of less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition according to the invention is water-free. Method for preparing the composition

[0288] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner.

[0289] Thus, the compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

[0290] The compositions can be prepared at room temperature (25 °C) or under heat.

[0291] For example, the aqueous and oily phases can be pre-prepared from separately, then mixed together before the introduction of the powdered compounds.

[0292] The composition according to the invention can be packaged in any suitable container. Cosmetic composition and use

[0293] The compositions according to the invention may be solid or non-solid.

[0294] Thus, according to a first variant, the compositions according to the invention are liquid, and can be of creamy or pasty texture. Viscosity measurement protocol

[0295] Viscosity measurement is carried out at 25 °C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 wheel, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0296] In particular, the viscosity at 25 °C of a composition according to the invention varies from 6 Pa.s to 18 Pa.s, preferably from 6 Pa.s to 15 Pa.s.

[0297] According to a second variant, the compositions according to the invention are in solid form.

[0298] A "solid composition" is defined as a composition that does not flow under its own weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure after one hour. The composition may thus be in solid form in a pot, on a pallet, or in the form of a stick.

[0299] Protocol for measuring the hardness of a composition in stick form

[0300] The composition in stick form is kept at 20 °C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement.

[0301] The measurement is carried out at 20 °C and consists of cutting transversely a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire of diameter 250 pm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.

[0302] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-1, is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company Indelco-Chatillon.

[0303] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values ​​read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nm⁻¹ using the equation shown (Y x 10⁻³ x 9.8) / L.

[0304] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention, when in solid form, advantageously exhibits a hardness at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure of between 80 and 200 Nm-1, and preferably between 100 and 200 Nm-1, even more particularly between 100 and 150 Nm-1, or even 130 Nm-1.

[0305] A composition according to the invention may more particularly be a makeup and / or skin care and / or lip composition, in particular lip care.

[0306] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic lip makeup composition.

[0307] A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a face or body care product or a sunscreen product.

[0308] A composition of the invention is in particular a composition intended to be applied to a keratinous material, in particular the lips, such as for example a lipstick, a lip balm or a lip gloss.

[0309] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is a lipstick, a lip balm or a lip gloss.

[0310] Examples of liquid formulations include lip glosses or lip stains.

[0311] The composition according to the invention can preferably be applied using an applicator, in particular a dipping applicator, for example using a flocked dipping applicator.

[0312] According to another aspect of it, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, in particular to said lips, a composition as defined above.

[0313] In particular, the process is a cosmetic process for lip makeup and / or lip care, comprising at least one step of applying to said lips, a composition as defined above.

[0314] Preferably, the process is a cosmetic lip makeup process, comprising at least one application step on said lips, of a composition as defined above.

[0315] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0316] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0317] In the description and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages (i.e., mass percentages). Percentages are therefore expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure. spherical, unless otherwise stated.

[0318] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. Example 1

[0319] Composition 1 according to the invention was prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 1. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0320] [Tables 1] Ingredients Quantity White base 85.00 Lycopene (LYC-O-MATO 10 Lycored) 4.00 Annatto (Yellow / Orange - OS - L - HO600480. Naturex) 6.00 SILIGLAM Pure Bio Sparkle Silver 1601A-50A-2Hex Sigmund Lindner reflective glitter 1.00 SILIGLAM Pure Bio Sparkle Silver 1610A-50A-2hex Sigmund Lindner reflective glitter 4.00

[0321] The white base has the following composition:

[0322] [Tables2] Ingredients Quantity Pentylene Glycol 1.11 Ethanol 1.11 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride (DUB MC T 7030 / MB marketed by Stearinerie Dubois) 10.00 Trihydroxystearin (Thixcin R PC marketed by Elemenfis) 3.45 Pentaerylthrityl Tetraisostearate (J&lee 7181 marketed by Oleon) 27.11 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA 7 marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical) 55.55 Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS marketed by Evomk Goldschmidf) 1.67 Preparation of the white base:

[0323] In the tank (multilab type), the fats (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, capric / caprylic triglyceride) and the polyglyceryl-4 dii-sostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate are added and the mixture is blended at 47 °C.

[0324] Once the phase is homogenized, the gelling agent (trihydroxystearin) is added and The whole thing is placed under agitation for 10 minutes; the temperature remaining below 55 °C.

[0325] After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the whole is cooled while maintaining agitation.

[0326] Preparation of the colored composition according to the invention:

[0327] Natural colorants are added to the previously prepared white base and the mixture is homogenized using a planetary mixer (Speedmixer brand) 2x2 min at 3000 rpm.

[0328] Reflective glitter is added and stirring is continued until homogenized.

[0329] The coloured composition thus obtained is packaged in a gloss-type hot water bottle equipped with a plunging applicator. Results

[0330] The composition according to the invention thus obtained is stable without decantation of the glitter. The glitter is very visible in the mixture and has a reflection that is no longer silvery but golden, red, or orange.

[0331] The composition applies easily, precisely, and without dripping. The resulting deposit is flexible, comfortable, homogeneous, and slightly sticky. The deposit is very glossy with colored, shimmering dots.

[0332] An aesthetic, sparkling and coloured effect according to the invention is also obtained by replacing the natural colourings with capsanthin / capsorubin, paprika and / or a carotenoid (b-carotene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin), an anthocyanin, and mixtures thereof, at appropriate levels according to the desired colour. Example 2

[0333] Composition 2 according to the invention was prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 3. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0334] [Tables3] Ingredients Quantity Pentylene Glycol LOI Ethanol LOI Caprylic / Capric triglyceride (DL® MC? marketed by Stearirierie Dubois) 9.05 Trihydroxystearin (Thixcin R PCcafnmercïü / isé by Elemeiïïis) 3.13 Pentaerylthrityl Tetraisostearate (Jo / ee 7181 marketed by Oleon) 24.56 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA 7 marketed. £ <7r Nippon i Fine Chemical) 50.33 Polyglyceryl diisostearate / polyh (holan GPS marketed by- Evt ydmxyste imk Gald trate / sebacate tchmidt) 1.51 Carmine 1.00 Mother-of-pearl (C^-6775 Sunshine Spectral Puss< (and) SwuheticFluorpklo^opité) 7 Sun Che Friendly - Iron Oxides 2.40 Mother-of-Pearl (Helips RIÔÔR, Topy) 1.00 SILIGLAM Pure Nature Silver 1719-2hex Reflective Glitter (0.15 mm) Sigmund Lindner 3.00 SILIGLAM Pitre Nature Silver 171 0A-50-2E [EX Sigmund Lindner 2.00 Preparation of the composition:

[0335] In a tank (multilab type), the fats (dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, capric / caprylic triglyceride) and polyglyceryl-4 dii-sostearate / polyhydroxy stearate / sebacate are added and the mixture is blended at 47°C.

[0336] Once the phase is homogenized, the gelling agent (trihydroxystearin) is added and the mixture is placed under agitation for 10 minutes; the temperature remaining below 55 °C.

[0337] After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the whole is cooled while maintaining agitation.

[0338] Carmine is added and the mixture is homogenized using a planetary mixer (Speedmixer brand) 2x2 min at 3000 rpm.

[0339] The nacres are then added, followed by the reflective glitter, and agitation is continued until homogenization.

[0340] The coloured composition thus obtained is packaged in a gloss-type hot water bottle equipped with a plunge applicator. Results :

[0341] The composition according to the invention thus obtained is stable without decantation of the flakes. These are very visible in the mixture and have a red or pinkish hue rather than a silvery one.

[0342] The composition applies easily, precisely, and without dripping. The resulting deposit is flexible, comfortable, homogeneous, and slightly sticky. The deposit is very glossy with colored, shimmering dots.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one natural or naturally derived coloring matter; (ii) at least one material with an optical effect distinct from the coloring matter (i) chosen from reflective flakes comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative; (iii) at least one oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or at least one solid fatty substance, or one of their mixtures; (iv) optionally water at a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, said natural or naturally occurring coloring matter(s) (i) being chosen from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, carotenoids, apocarotenoids, caramel, tannins, curcuminoids, flavonoids, carmine, betanin, riboflavin, spirulina, quinizarin, sandalwood, and chlorophyll, and preferably from anthocyanins, anthocyanidins, proanthocyanidins, carotenes, in particular beta-carotene, lycopene, xanthophylls, in particular capsanthin, capsorubin and lutein, annatto, curcumin, bixin, norbixin, spirulina, and their mixtures.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said natural or naturally occurring coloring matter(s) (i) being present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being chosen from uncolored particles or particles with a holographic or silver effect, preferably particles with a holographic or silver effect.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being chosen from reflective flakes comprising at least cellulose or cellulose acetate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being chosen from flakes comprising a carrier comprising at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, of cellulose and / or cellulose derivative, preferably cellulose or cellulose acetate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) being chosen from particles having a maximum diameter size in the main direction of extension of the particle ranging from 0.02 mm to 7.0 mm, in particular ranging from 0.05 mm to 6.0 mm, more particularly from 0.06 mm to 2.0 mm, preferably ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, more preferably ranging from 100 pm to 400 pm.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said optical effect material(s) (ii) chosen from reflective flakes comprising at least cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative being present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said oil(s), non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, or said solid fatty body(ies), or their mixtures, being present in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil (iii), in particular chosen from liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably chosen from Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Di-linoleate, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 20% to 70% by weight of liquid polyester(s) obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil (iii) chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, and mixtures thereof; more particularly chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, polar hydrocarbon oils chosen from non-hydroxylated ester oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, ether or carbonate oils, vegetable oils preferably with the exception of castor oil, lesquerella oil, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof;and preferably chosen from squalane, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, oleyl erucate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, olive oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, or mixtures thereof.;

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 10% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 40% by weight, of non-volatile oil(s) (iii) chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from vegetable oils, non-hydroxylated ester hydrocarbon oils other than liquid polyesters obtained from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated ester oils, ether or carbonate oils, alcohol oils, as well as mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty substance (iii), in particular chosen from waxes, preferably other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, preferably chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, fatty acid ester waxes, in particular cetyl palmitate, polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, ozokerite, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably present in a content less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty substance (iii), in particular chosen among the pasty compounds, preferably chosen from vegetable butters, fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, preferably partially hydrogenated with the exception of hydrogenated castor oil, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxy stearate / Tetraisostearate, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Di-linoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one lipophilic thickening agent, in particular chosen from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof, and preferably being glyceryl trihydroxystearate.

17. Composition according to the preceding claim, said lipophilic thickening agent(s) being present in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydroxylated solvent, in particular chosen from mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and polyols which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an additional coloring material distinct from materials (i) and (ii) and chosen from pigments or nacres, and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from nacres.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is liquid, and preferably that it has a viscosity ranging from 6 Pa.s to 18 Pa.s, more preferably ranging from 6 Pa.s to 15 Pa.s.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for lip makeup.

22. Cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step application to said keratin materials, in particular to said lips, of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.