Perfumed cosmetic composition in the form of an alcohol-free emulsion

Abstract

Perfumed cosmetic composition in the form of an alcohol-free emulsion. Composition, particularly cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, the oil and aqueous phases being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, characterized in that: a) the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least microcrystalline cellulose, and b) the dispersed oil phase comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or even at least 30%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Perfumed cosmetic composition in the form of an alcohol-free emulsion

[0001] The present invention relates to a new alcohol-free perfumed cosmetic composition which can, for example, be an eau de toilette, an eau de Cologne, a perfume extract, a perfume spirit or an eau de parfum depending on the perfume content it contains and the notes it expresses.

[0002] This perfume composition has excellent properties such as kinetic stability and the ability to be sprayed in the form of fine particles, as well as the absence of a sticky feeling to the touch, and even the olfactory fidelity of the perfume and the persistence of the perfume note over time after application.

[0003] There is a growing consumer demand for alcohol-free perfumes, particularly on the grounds that alcohol is not good for the skin and that skin irritations can occur with other cosmetic products containing alcohol.

[0004] Thus, there is a consumer need for alcohol-free perfumed products.

[0005] However, alcohol, such as ethanol, plays an important role in perfume formulation due to its high capacity to dissolve perfumes.

[0006] Numerous approaches have been explored to prepare suitable cosmetic perfumes that do not contain alcohol. For example, one approach relies on oil-in-water emulsified compositions comprising surfactants, particularly non-ionic ones, in high concentrations (generally more than 10% by mass) to dissolve the perfumes (WO 2017 / 059513 and CN 103637942). However, this approach is unsatisfactory because the high quantities of surfactants required to dissolve the perfumes (i) induce a stickiness that impairs sprayability, (ii) affect the olfactory quality of the perfumes, and (iii) can lead to stability problems.

[0007] Therefore, there is a need to propose an alcohol-free perfume formula that offers great sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory properties of perfumes.

[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide a perfumed cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (or "direct emulsion") which contains very small amounts of alcohol, or no alcohol at all, while ensuring the stability of the emulsion over time, satisfactory or even excellent sprayability, and olfactory stability over time.

[0009] In particular, an object of the present invention is to provide a perfumed cosmetic composition that allows for high sprayability, while retaining the same quality and same properties as classic alcohol-based perfume compositions, such as olfactory properties and long-term stability.

[0010] The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oily phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, the oily phase and the aqueous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, characterized in that:

[0011] a) the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least microcrystalline cellulose, and

[0012] b) the dispersed oily phase comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or even at least 30%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] Preferably, in a composition according to the invention, the dispersed oily phase further comprises at least one lipophilic cationic compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function and / or the continuous aqueous phase further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0014] Contrary to expectations, the inventors observed that the presence of microcrystalline cellulose makes it possible to obtain a perfumed cosmetic composition in the form of a stable oil-in-water emulsion (or "direct emulsion"), even with very small amounts of alcohol, or no alcohol at all, while ensuring the emulsion's stability over time, satisfactory or even excellent sprayability, and long-lasting olfactory stability. The invention also makes it possible to obtain perfumed compositions that do not leave a sticky feeling.

[0015] Stability can be appreciated with the naked eye, and can be considered as the absence of creaming and / or the absence of phase separation between the dispersed oily phase and the continuous aqueous phase.

[0016] In the context of the present invention, the term "emulsion" may be referred to interchangeably as "dispersion".

[0017] According to the invention, the pH of a composition is typically between 4.0 and 8.0, in particular between 5.0 and 7.0.

[0018] Unless otherwise indicated, in all that follows, it is assumed that we are at ambient temperature (for example T=25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg, i.e. 1.013.105 Pa or 1013 mbar).

[0019] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is not in the form of a nanoemulsion and / or does not comprise a high amount of surfactant(s), in particular non-ionic surfactants.

[0020] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, by weight of surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a microemulsion. continuous aqueous phase

[0022] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, is not solid at room temperature and at room pressure, that is to say, it is able to flow under its own weight.

[0023] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0024] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the continuous aqueous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of the continuous aqueous phase.

[0025] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least microcrystalline cellulose, in particular as defined below.

[0026] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase may further comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant, in particular as defined below.

[0027] Preferably, a composition, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise carbomer (or acrylic polymer).

[0028] Preferably, a composition, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise a base, in particular alkali metal hydroxide, and especially NaOH (or sodium hydroxide).

[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, and in particular the continuous aqueous phase, has a high shear viscosity, as measured at 25°C and under a shear stress of 100 s1, less than or equal to 150 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 100 mPa.s, in particular less than or equal to 90 mPa.s, better less than or equal to 80 mPa.s, and preferably between 50 mPa.s and 150 mPa.s, in particular between 60 mPa.s and 135 mPa.s, and most particularly between 70 mPa.s and 90 mPa.s.

[0030] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is sprayable.

[0031] For the purposes of this invention, "sprayable" or "sprayable" refers to the ability of a composition to be sprayed in the form of fine droplets using spray-type delivery devices (pumps) or even pressurization devices (aerosols). In other words, a composition according to the invention is advantageously a sprayable composition.

[0032] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, has a yield stress value less than or equal to 10 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 8 Pa, particularly less than or equal to 5 Pa, and in particular less than or equal to 1 Pa.

[0033] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, has a yield stress value between 0.05 Pa and 10 Pa, preferably between 0.5 Pa and 8 Pa, and better between 1 Pa and 5 Pa.

[0034] The viscosity and yield stress value are measured by the following method:

[0035] All measurements are performed using a Ta instrument DHR10 rheometer equipped with a 40 mm diameter oscillating element forming a 1° cone, with a measurement gap of 29 µm. The rheometer is controlled by Trios software. Measurements are carried out at 18°C, the temperature being controlled by a Peltier device. The rheological behavior is measured using a flow sweep protocol. Once the sample is in place and the temperature of 18°C ​​is reached, the sample is left to rest for 60 seconds to allow stress to dissipate. It is then subjected to a logarithmic shear sweep between 0.01 and 500 s⁻¹ with 5 points per decade. The viscosity (mPa·s) and stress (Pa) curves are plotted using Trios software. Analysis of the stress curve by the software by applying the Herschel-Bulkley model allows the rheological behavior to be expressed according to the following equation.

[0036] t - Tq + kÿ\ if t > t0

[0037] where T is the shear stress; is the yield stress value; k is the consistency coefficient; T is the shear rate and n is the flow index.

[0038] A composition according to the invention satisfying the viscosity and yield stress values ​​described above presents a non-obvious compromise between the kinetic stability of the emulsion, its liquid consistency, and its sprayability. This compromise is achieved, in particular, through the presence of microcrystalline cellulose in a continuous aqueous phase. Microcrystalline cellulose

[0039] Microcrystalline cellulose (or “microcrystalline cellulose”) is generally prepared from wood pulp: said pulp is cut into small particles which are chemically hydrolyzed, in particular with a mineral acid, then a filtration and drying step takes place.

[0040] According to a first embodiment, the microcrystalline cellulose can be in the form of particles. Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose has a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 5 to 140 pm.

[0041] Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose is chosen from a microcrystalline cellulose whose median diameter is less than 30pm and is preferably of 1Opm. Alternatively, microcrystalline cellulose preferably has a median diameter of 130 pm.

[0042] The median diameter is a parameter well known to those skilled in the art which can be measured according to techniques well known to them, such as, for example, laser particle size analysis or selective sieving.

[0043] Such microcrystalline cellulose is notably marketed by FMC Bio-polymers under the name of Avicel or by the company JRS.

[0044] According to a second embodiment, the microcrystalline cellulose can be in the form of a fiber, preferably having an average diameter of 2 to 5 nm. The average diameter of the fibers means the average diameter of the fibers by volume.

[0045] Such microcrystalline cellulose is notably marketed by IWASE COSFA under the name Rheocrysta C-2SN.

[0046] According to a third embodiment, microcrystalline cellulose can be in the form of a mixture (or association or coupling) with a natural gum, in particular a cellulose or xanthan gum. This can then be referred to as co-treated (or functionalized) microcrystalline cellulose; in particular, it is understood to designate microcrystalline cellulose onto which a natural gum is bonded (or grafted).

[0047] Such co-treated microcrystalline cellulose is notably marketed by CFF GmbH & Co. KG under the name Sensocel stab 026 or Sensocel stab 026N.

[0048] Preferably, the microcrystalline cellulose is a co-treated microcrystalline cellulose, preferably with a natural gum, in particular a cellulose or xanthan gum, and especially a cellulose gum.

[0049] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and better from 1% to 2.5%, by weight of microcrystalline cellulose relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase. Natural gums

[0050] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase may further comprise at least one natural gum.

[0051] As can be seen from example 1, such a compound is advantageous in that it allows access to an alcohol-free perfume formula with even improved properties in terms of sprayability, stability and olfactory properties of perfumes.

[0052] Preferably, a natural gum is chosen from cellulose, starch, xanthan gum, inulin, gellan, pullulan, curdlan, gum arabic, amylopectin, dextran, hemicellulose, and mixtures thereof, in particular cellulose and / or xanthan gum, and especially cellulose.

[0053] According to a first embodiment, the natural gum is a free raw material, that is to say, used as such. In other words, the natural gum is not in a form associated (or coupled) with another raw material, and in part- microcrystalline cellulose in particular.

[0054] According to another embodiment, the natural gum is used in a form associated (or coupled) with another raw material, and in particular with microcrystalline cellulose. In other words, in this embodiment, such a natural gum is not a free raw material. Such a coupled form is advantageous in that it allows for improved incorporation of the microcrystalline cellulose into the continuous aqueous phase.

[0055] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 5%, and better from 0.3% to 2.5%, by weight of natural gum(s) relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase. Non-ionic surfactants

[0056] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase may further comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0057] As can be seen from example 2, such a compound is advantageous in that it allows access to an alcohol-free perfume formula offering great sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory properties of perfumes.

[0058] Nonionic surfactants are used in the continuous aqueous phase and are therefore hydrophilic. All or part of the nonionic surfactants can naturally position themselves at the water / oil interface due to their intrinsic amphiphilic properties.

[0059] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds known in themselves (for example, on this subject, “Handbook of Surfactants”, by MR Porter, Blackie & Son Publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

[0060] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are chosen from those having an HLB value between 5 and 15, in particular between 7 and 13, and better between 8 and 10.

[0061] The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of monooxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxy-alkylene motif is, more specifically, an oxyethylene or oxypropylene motif, or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene motif.

[0062] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is a polyglycerol surfactant, in particular Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name CREMOPHOR GS32.

[0063] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and in particular from 1% to 5%, by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase. Alcohols

[0064] The continuous aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, in particular less than 2%, better less than 1%, and most particularly less than 0.5%, or even is devoid of alcohol(s), in particular ethanol.

[0065] The term "alcohol" includes, in particular, a lower alkyl alcohol. A lower alkyl alcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Ethanol is one such lower alkyl alcohol.

[0066] The composition is preferably free of any lower alkyl alcohol.

[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, "ethanol-free" or "alcohol-free" may also to designate a cosmetic that is prepared by a preparation process preferably not including any step of adding a lower alkyl alcohol and no step of mixing an alkyl alcohol with other ingredients.

[0068] However, it cannot be excluded that traces of lower alkyl alcohols, in particular traces of ethanol, may be present in some of the ingredients used in preparing the composition according to the invention, particularly in certain perfumes. Acids

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase may further comprise at least one acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, polyacrylic acid, phytic acid, phosphoric acid, polyaspartic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, or more generally a polyacid, and mixtures thereof, and particularly citric acid.

[0070] Such an embodiment is advantageous in that it allows for further improvement of the kinetic stability of a composition according to the invention. Dispersed fat phase

[0071] A composition according to the invention comprises a dispersed fatty phase (or oily phase).

[0072] For obvious reasons, the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed oily phase are immiscible. By "immiscible" or "non-miscible" in the context of the present invention, it is understood that the solubility of a first phase in a second phase is advantageously less than 5% by mass, and vice versa.

[0073] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and in particular from 20% to 30%, by weight of fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In the context of the present invention, the oily phase is in the form of drops, which may be referred to interchangeably as "drops (Gl)".

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, all or part of the drops Gl may be microscopic. By "microscopic" or "microscopic drop," we mean To designate, within the meaning of the present invention, dispersed phase droplets not visible to the naked eye. Thus, according to this particular embodiment, the dispersed oil phase droplets advantageously have a diameter of less than 250 pm, preferably a diameter of less than 125 microns, in particular a diameter of less than 75 pm.

[0076] According to another particular embodiment, all or part of the G1 drops may be macroscopic. For the purposes of this invention, "macroscopic" or "macroscopic drop" refers to dispersed phase drops visible to the naked eye. Thus, according to this particular embodiment, the drops have a diameter greater than or equal to 250 pm, in particular greater than or equal to 500 pm, preferably greater than or equal to 750 pm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 pm, or even between 250 pm and 3,000 pm, preferably between 500 pm and 2,000 pm, and in particular between 750 pm and 1,000 pm.

[0077] Determining the size (or diameter) of the drops is a matter of general knowledge for a person skilled in the art. Perfumes

[0078] The dispersed oily phase comprises at least one fragrance.

[0079] For obvious reasons, a perfume according to the invention is a lipophilic agent, that is to say soluble or dispersible in an organic solvent, in particular an oil.

[0080] A "perfume," also referred to interchangeably as "perfuming agent," "perfume juice," or "perfume concentrate," within the meaning of the present invention, may be selected from compounds having the INCI name "Parfum" or "Fragrance," and mixtures thereof. The term "perfume" within the meaning of the present invention also includes essential oils.

[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "perfume" does not refer to a mixture comprising a perfume concentrate and alcohol.

[0082] The perfumes that can be used according to the invention are ingredients commonly used in perfumery. Their nature does not require a more detailed description here, which could not, moreover, be exhaustive, as those skilled in the art are able to choose them based on their general knowledge and according to the desired olfactory effect. These perfumes belong to chemical classes as varied as alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, acetates, nitriles, terpene hydrocarbons, nitrogenous or sulfurous heterocyclic compounds, as well as essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. Many of these ingredients are listed in reference texts such as S. Arctander's book, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals, 1969, Montclair, New Jersey, USA, or its more recent editions, or in other works of a similar nature, as well as in the more recent scientific and patent literature relating to the art of perfumery.

[0083] For example, a perfume is a compound or a mixture of compounds at least by Essentially volatile at room temperature, and with a detectable odor, a perfume composed of essential oils is generally diluted to express its full olfactory potential. This potential is a perception that evolves throughout the day after application to the surface to be treated, thanks to the presence of several fragrant organic compounds with varying volatilities. The creation of a perfume includes a step of combining several fragrant raw materials to give the fragrance composition a top note, a middle note, and a base note.

[0084] A perfume can be prepared from natural or synthetic organic perfumed materials.

[0085] Examples of natural perfumed materials are extracts of flowers, stems, leaves, fruits, barks, roots, woods, herbs, grasses, resins, balms, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] These vegetable perfumery materials may be essential oils, such as bergamot, rose, lavender, sandalwood, cardamom, sage, chamomile, clove, lemon balm, mint, cinnamon leaf, juniper, vetiver, frankincense, galbanum, labdanum, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Examples of perfumery materials of synthetic origin are hedione, ethylene brassilate, habanolide, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate. , benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenyl alkylcyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate, benzyl ether, linear alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyl oxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, ionones such as alpha-isomethyl ionone, methyl cedrylketone, anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, terpineol, terpenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] These compounds often come in the form of a mixture of two or more of these odorous substances.

[0089] The characteristics of a composition according to the invention are such that they allow high levels of perfume(s), without prejudice to the kinetic stability and sprayability of the composition.

[0090] Thus, the dispersed oily phase comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or even at least 30%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular as defined below.

[0091] In particular, the dispersed fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may advantageously include 5% to 30%, and preferably 10% to 20%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Also, the composition may advantageously comprise from 10% to 100%, preferably from 20% to 99.95%, in particular from 30% to 99%, or even from 40% to 90%, and especially from 50% to 80%, by weight of perfume(s) in relation to the total weight of the dispersed oil phase. Lipophilic cationic compounds

[0093] According to the invention, the dispersed oily phase may further comprise at least one lipophilic (or liposoluble) cationic compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function.

[0094] As can be seen from example 2, such a compound is advantageous in that it allows access to an alcohol-free perfume formula offering great sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory properties of perfumes.

[0095] Unless otherwise stated, "lipophilic cationic compound", "cationic type compound" or "cationic compound" means a compound having cationic type chemical functions.

[0096] In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, "cationic-type chemical function" means a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a BH+ function. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the cationic-type compound therefore contains chemical functions in the form B, or in the form BH+, its conjugate acid.

[0097] As an example of cationic type chemical functions, ammonium, sulfonium or phophonium functions, and preferably ammonium, can be cited.

[0098] Thus, a lipophilic cationic compound comprises at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, preferably present in the form of ammonium cations.

[0099] The lipophilic cationic compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function can be selected from at least one polymer modified by a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, a cationic surfactant, and their mixture.

[0100] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.05% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and better from 0.2% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic ca-tionic compound(s) comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0101] Polymer modified by a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function ternary

[0102] In the context of this application, a polymer modified by a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function may be designated interchangeably by "lipophilic cationic polymer", "cationic-type polymer" or "cationic polymer".

[0103] As an example of a cationic type polymer, one can cite any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least a part bears cationic type chemical functions, such as primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine functions.

[0104] Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function.

[0105] Examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary and secondary amine functions.

[0106] We can also mention derivatives of amodimethicone, such as for example amodimethicone copolymers, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.

[0107] Examples include bis-isobutyl PEG-14 / amodimethicone copolymer, Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone.

[0108] Preferably, a cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, such as amodimethicone.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer is amodimethicone, in particular as described in WO2019002308, or a compound of formula (I) or formula (IV) described in patent application filed under No. FR2205166. Cationic surfactants

[0110] A cationic surfactant according to the invention is lipophilic and can be chosen from any lipophilic cationic surfactant known to a person skilled in the art.

[0111] Preferably, the cationic surfactant is chosen from those marketed by SurfactGreen under the names CosmeGreen ES 1822+ (INCI: Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol) or CosmeGreen MB 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate), or from those marketed by Inolex under the name KerazyneMB (INCI: Polyester-11), and their mixtures. Oils

[0112] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oil.

[0113] The term "oil" means a liquid fat at room temperature.

[0114] Examples of oils that can be used in a dispersion of the invention include:

[0115] - vegetable-derived hydrocarbon oils, such as jojoba oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0116] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0117] - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid in C8 to C29, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, in C3 to C30, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0118] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0119] - silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or non-volatile linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, including cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, hanging from or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0120] - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or even octyldodecanol;

[0121] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

[0122] - and their mixtures.

[0123] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed oil phase may comprise at least one oil having a density at 20°C of at least 0.90 g / cm³, preferably a density between 0.95 g / cm³ and 1.10 g / cm³. Such an embodiment is advantageous in that it further improves the kinetic stability of a composition according to the invention.

[0124] Preferably, the oily phase does not comprise silicone oil, and preferably does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).

[0125] Naturally, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any oils and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0126] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises from 1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 20%, and better from 5% to 10%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase. Additional component(s)

[0127] According to the invention, a composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed oily phase, may further comprise at least one additional compound other than the perfumes, microcrystalline cellulose, hydrophilic non-ionic surfactants, lipophilic cationic compounds, natural gums and oils mentioned above.

[0128] A composition according to the invention may further comprise powders; reflective particles, in particular glitter, especially as defined in FR3082731; coloring agents, in particular selected from water-soluble or insoluble, fat-soluble or insoluble, organic or inorganic coloring agents, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; fillers, especially as described in FR1755907; pigments; pearlescent pigments; emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, especially as described in EP2353577; soft-focus fillers; texturizing agents, especially polyethylene glycols (e.g.marketed under the name Carbowax) or glycerin; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; chelating agents; emollients; hydrophilic and / or lipophilic gelling agents, including those described below; pH modifiers, osmotic strength modifiers and / or refractive index modifiers, etc... or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0129] As an additional compound, a composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed oily phase, may further comprise at least one biological / cosmetic active ingredient, in particular selected from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, agents of Quaternary ammonium compounds, antioxidants, active ingredients that stimulate the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules, skin-relaxing agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents and / or anti-aging agents, and mixtures thereof. Such active ingredients are described in particular in FR1558849.

[0130] As an additional compound, a composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed oily phase, may further comprise at least one hair active, in particular as described in the patent application filed under No. FR2206462.

[0131] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0132] A lipophilic gelling agent, i.e., soluble or dispersible in the fat phase, may be selected from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; solid fats at ambient temperature and pressure, in particular waxes, pasty fats, butters; and mixtures thereof, and preferably from polymeric gelling agents. Such lipophilic gelling agents are described in particular in WO2019002308.

[0133] Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the present invention are dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates. Examples of dextrin and fatty acid esters include dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates, and mixtures thereof. Notable examples include the dextrin and fatty acid esters marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate) by Miyoshi Europe, as well as the dextrin palmitate marketed by The Innovation Company.

[0134] Mention may also be made of THIXCIN® R from Elementis Specialties (INCI: Trihy-droxystearin), OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer from the company Lubrizol (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), Oilkemia™ 5S CC polymer, (INCI: INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer), Estogel M from PolymerExpert (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), EMC30 (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Castor Oi 1 / 1 PDI Copolymer), Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer as well as its derivatives, in particular marketed respectively under the names Estogel Green (or Estogel G) and Estogel Green 40 by PolymerExpert, and their mixtures.

[0135] Advantageously, a lipophilic gelling agent is a heat-sensitive gelling agent. Hydrophilic gelling agents

[0136] A hydrophilic gelling agent, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water, may be chosen from:

[0137] - natural gelling agents, in particular selected from seaweed extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, microbial exudates, such as alcasealan marketed by Hakuto (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents, particularly hyaluronic acid,

[0138] - semi-synthetic gelling agents, in particular selected from derivatives of the cellulose and modified starches,

[0139] - synthetic gelling agents, in particular selected from homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), associative polymers, of those described in FR2999921,

[0140] - other gelling agents, in particular selected from clays, glycerin, and

[0141] - their mixtures.

[0142] These hydrophilic gelling agents are described in more detail in FR3041251.

[0143] Advantageously, a hydrophilic gelling agent is a thermosensitive gelling agent.

[0144] Preferably, a composition according to the invention does not include:

[0145] - of lecithin or one of its derivatives, in particular does not include hyaluronic acid drugged;

[0146] - polyvinylpyrrolidone;

[0147] - of hydrogenated polyisobutene (or hydrogenated polyisobutene);

[0148] - of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate and / or sodium caproyl / lauroyl lactylate; and / or

[0149] - Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride. ISO 16 128

[0150] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a percentage of ingredients of natural origin greater than or equal to 95%, preferably greater than or equal to 96%, in particular greater than or equal to 97%, better greater than or equal to 98%, and most particularly greater than or equal to 99%, according to ISO 16128.

[0151] In other words, a composition according to the invention is devoid of, or comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 4%, in particular less than 3%, better less than 1%, and most particularly less than 0.5% by weight, ingredients of non-natural origin according to ISO 16128.

[0152] A method for calculating the percentage of ingredients of natural origin according to the ISO 16128 standard is described in WO2022167567.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase can itself be in the form of a direct emulsion.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed oily phase can itself be in the form of a reverse emulsion. Preparation process

[0155] The preparation of the continuous aqueous phase and the dispersed oily phase of a composition according to the invention falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0156] The preparation of a composition according to the invention also falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. By way of illustration, a composition according to the invention can be obtained by means of non-micro / milli-fluidic manufacturing processes, such as for example by Rayneri stirring, or by means of micro / milli-fluidic manufacturing processes, for example those described in WO2010063937, FR2964017, WO2012089820, WO2021037999, WO2022106361, EP2292752, EP0525731, EP1020177, EP1025842. Uses

[0157] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is directly usable, after the aforementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic one.

[0158] The compositions according to the invention can therefore be used in particular in the cosmetic field.

[0159] They may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients or compounds, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0160] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0161] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is represented directly by the aqueous continuous phase as described above.

[0162] In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium suitable for cosmetic applications, and suitable in particular for the application of a composition of the invention on a keratinous material, in particular the skin and / or hair, and more particularly the skin.

[0163] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously a perfume composition. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an eau de toilette, an eau de Cologne, a perfume extract, a perfume spirit, a perfume veil, an eau de parfum, or an eau de parfum.

[0164] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously a perfume composition, in particular an alcohol-free perfume composition, in liquid form intended to perfume an individual after spraying or application to the skin, hair and / or clothing. Such a product is not rinsed off after application.

[0165] A perfumed composition will thus be distinguished from a perfumed composition. Indeed, a cosmetic composition can be perfumed without being perfumed.

[0166] Thus, preferably, a composition according to the invention is not dedicated to the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material.

[0167] The invention also relates to a bottle provided with an application means and a packaging means, said packaging means containing a composition as described above.

[0168] A composition according to the invention is preferably topical.

[0169] The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process, in particular for perfuming a keratin material or a garment, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin material and / or said garment at least one composition according to the invention.

[0170] The present invention further relates to the use of at least one composition according to the invention, for perfuming a keratin material or a garment.

[0171] The present invention further relates to the use of at least one composition according to the invention, to improve the persistence of the olfactory rendering of a perfume composition comprising less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even devoid of alcohol(s), in particular ethanol.

[0172] The invention also relates to a cosmetic base, a detergent or an air freshener comprising at least one composition as described above.

[0173] The present invention further relates to the use of at least one composition according to the invention, to mask bad odors.

[0174] The composition will preferably be applied / used by means of a spraying device (or means).

[0175] Throughout the description, the expression "including one" shall be understood as synonymous with "including at least one", unless otherwise specified. The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified. EXAMPLES

[0176] Example 1: Comparative study concerning the continuous phase

[0177] A comparative study is carried out on the 5 compositions described in the table below. These compositions are prepared using a non-microfluidic process with rotor / stator stirring.

[0178] [Tables] COMPOSITION AB c DE Phase Details Inv. Comp. Comp. Inv. Inv. Trade name INCI name %m in the phase Aqueous phase (OF) Reverse osmosis water Aqua QSP* A Glycerin codex Glycerin 5 A MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG Pentylene Glycol 2 A Microcare PE Phenoxyethanol 0.8 A Rheocrysta C-2SN(1) Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Water 30 0 0 0 0 B Natrathix bio cellulose Cellulose Gum 0 1 0 0 0 B Kelcogel CG-HA Gellan Gum 0 0 0.2 0 0 B SENSOCEL STAB 026 Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum 0 0 0 1.5 0 B SENSOCEL STAB 026-N Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose 0 0 0 0 1.5 B Total 100 Oily phase (IF) Perfume - QSP* D CAS-3131 Amodimethicone 0.2 D Total 100

[0179] (1) Rhéocrysta C-2SN comprises 2% Microcrystalline Cellulose; the OF comprises Therefore, 0.6% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose relative to the weight of the OF. Preparation protocol:

[0180] - Mix the raw materials A in a container under stirring at temperature ambient (= mixture 1).

[0181] - Add raw material B to mixture 1 while stirring at room temperature until homogenized (= mixture 2).

[0182] - In parallel, mix the raw materials D in a container under stirring at room temperature (= mixture 3).

[0183] - Add mixture 3 to mixture 2 (in a weight ratio of 12.2% IF / 87.8% OF) Stir at room temperature until homogenized.

[0184] The emulsions formed are then packaged in a 100 ml bottle equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump.

[0185] Rating criteria:

[0186] From the table below, we aim to obtain a composition with the highest possible total score. A score of 0 for any parameter is disqualifying.

[0187] [Tables2] RATING CRITERIA 0 1 2 Stability® Phase separation of OF and IF completely separated Creaming of IF rises but no coalescence Absence of phase separation and creaming Sprayability® Poor sprayability and / or delivery. Average sprayability and / or inhomogeneous delivery. Good sprayability with homogeneous delivery,

[0188] ® Stability is evaluated by centrifugation; 80 ml of the composition to be tested is placed in a SIGMA brand centrifuge for 12 minutes at 3500 revolutions per minute (radius approximately 13 cm).

[0189] (3) Good sprayability is characterized by delivery in the form of a cloud, and therefore the absence of a jet.

[0190] Results:

[0191] [Tables3] ABCDE Tests Inv. Comp. Comp. Inv. Inv. Stability 1 0 1 2 2 Sprayability 2 NA® 0 2 2 High Shear Viscosity'4 135 NA® NA® 70 73 Pour Point(4) 4.59 NA® NA® 3.78 2.86

[0192] (4) The viscosity and yield stress are measured by the method described above previously.

[0193] (5) NA = Not Applicable because not evaluated due to a stability score of 0 and / or sprayability.

[0194] Conclusion:

[0195] The stability test of test B led to release phenomena (separation of the two phases IF and OF) and was judged unstable.

[0196] Test C is not satisfactory in terms of sprayability. Identical results to test C were obtained with a similar test (not described above) in which gellan gum was replaced by xanthan gum (Rhodicare T) at 0.5%.

[0197] Tests A, D, and E relate to alcohol-free fragrance compositions that offer satisfactory sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory properties of the fragrance agent. These are the only compositions comprising at least microcrystalline cellulose.

[0198] These properties are further improved when the continuous aqueous phase also includes a natural gum (tests D and E), with test D even being preferred to test E.

[0199] Tests A, D, and E exhibit excellent properties in terms of fragrance rendering and fidelity, as well as the persistence of the fragrance note over time after application. These tests A, D, and E are further advantageous due to the absence of a sticky sensation to the touch.

[0200] Tests A', D' and E' were carried out, the compositions of which differ from tests A, D and E by the absence of amodimethicone. The results obtained in terms of stability and sprayability are slightly lower than those obtained with tests A, D and E, but remain satisfactory.

[0201] Example 2: comparative study concerning the fatty phase

[0202] A comparative study is carried out on the 5 compositions described in the table below. These compositions are prepared using a non-microfluidic process. thanks to a Silversion.

[0203] [Tables4] COMPOSITION FGHIJ Phase e Details Comp Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Trade Name INCI Name %w in phase Aqueous Phase (OF) Osmosis Water Aqua QSP* A Glycerin codex Glycerin 5 A MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG Pentylene Glycol 2 A Microcare PE Phenoxyethanol 0.8 A VIVAPUR CS TEX SUN Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum 2 B CREMOPHOR GS32 (i.e., non-ionic TA) Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate 0 0 0 3 0 C Total 100 Oily Phase (IF) Parfum - QSP* D Eumulgin VL 75 (i.e., non-ionic TA) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Poly-glyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 4 0 0 0 0 D CAS-3131 Amodimethicone 0 0.2 0 0 0 D CosmeGreen ES1822+ (i.e., TA cationic) Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol 0 0 0.8 0 0 D CosmeGreen MB1618 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate 0 0 0 0 0.5 D (ie cationic TA) Miglyol 829 eco Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 0 0 0 0 2 D Total 100

[0204] Preparation protocol:

[0205] - Mix the raw materials A in a container under stirring at temperature ambient (= mixture 1).

[0206] - Add raw material B to mixture 1 while stirring at room temperature until homogenized (= mixture 2).

[0207] - When present, add raw material C to mixture 2 while stirring in the bath heat to 80°C until homogenized (= mixture 3).

[0208] - In parallel, when present, mix the raw material D in a container under stirring at room temperature (for tests F and G) or in a water bath at 80°C (for tests H and J) (= mixture 4).

[0209] - Add mixture 4 to mixture 2 (mixture 3 for test I) (in a ratio (by weight 12.2% IF / 87.8% OF) under stirring at room temperature until homogenized.

[0210] The emulsions formed are then packaged in a 100 ml bottle equipped with a spray-type dispensing pump.

[0211] Scoring criteria: see example 2.

[0212] Results:

[0213] [Tables5] FGHIJ Tests Comp. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Stability 0 2 1 1 2 Sprayability NA® 2 2 2 2 High Shear Viscosity'4 NA® 85 89 88 79 Pour Point(4) NA® 4.06 4.73 3.57 4.04

[0214] Conclusion:

[0215] The stability test of test F led to release phenomena (separation of the two phases IF and OF) and was judged unstable.

[0216] Tests G to J relate to alcohol-free fragrance compositions that offer satisfactory sprayability while maintaining the stability and olfactory properties of the perfume agent.

[0217] The G to J tests exhibit excellent properties in terms of fragrance rendering and fidelity, and the persistence of the fragrance note over time after application. These G to J tests are further advantageous due to the absence of a sticky sensation to the touch.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being immiscible with each other at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, characterized in that: a) the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least microcrystalline cellulose, and b) the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or even at least 30%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition has a high shear viscosity, as measured at 25°C and under a shear stress of 100 s1, of less than or equal to 150 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 100 mPa.s, in particular less than or equal to 90 mPa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 80 mPa.s.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the composition is sprayable, and preferably the continuous aqueous phase has a flow threshold value less than or equal to 10 Pa, in particular less than or equal to 8 Pa, very particularly less than or equal to 5 Pa.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and better still from 1% to 2.5%, by weight of microcrystalline cellulose relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the continuous aqueous phase further comprises at least one natural gum, preferably chosen from cellulose, starch, xanthan, rinulin, gellan, pullulan, curdlan, gum arabic, amylopectin, dextran, hemicellulose, and mixtures thereof, and in particular chosen from cellulose and / or xanthan.

6. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the composition comprises from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 5%, and better still from 0.3% to 2.5%, by weight of natural gum(s) relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic cationic compound comprising at least one primary amine function, secondary, tertiary or quaternary and / or the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the lipophilic cationic compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function is chosen from at least one polymer modified by a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, a cationic surfactant, and their mixture.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 8, in which the composition comprises from 0.05% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and better still from 0.2% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic cationic compound(s) comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

10. Composition according to claim 7, in which the composition comprises from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and in particular from 1% to 5%, by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises from 10% to 100%, preferably from 20% to 99.95%, in particular from 30% to 99%, or even from 40% to 90%, and very particularly from 50% to 80%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises from 5% to 30%, and preferably from 10% to 20%, by weight of perfume(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises from 1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 20%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises from 5% to 50%, preferably from 10% to 40%, and in particular from 20% to 30%, by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, in particular less than 2.5%, or even is free of alcohol(s), in particular ethanol, relative to the total weight of the com- position.

16. Non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment, in particular of perfuming a keratin material or a garment, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material and / or said garment at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

17. Use of at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, for perfuming a keratin material or a garment.