Cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers

Abstract

Cosmetic Treatment Process for Keratin Fibers The invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers (12), comprising the following steps: a) applying a cosmetic composition (14) containing at least 5% water by mass to the keratin fibers; and b) exposing said keratin fibers to microwave radiation. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino acid and / or at least one amino alcohol, in salified or non-salted form; the pH of the cosmetic composition is greater than or equal to 9; and the total thiol concentration of the cosmetic composition is less than 0.1% by mass relative to the total mass of said cosmetic composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition does not contain a significant amount of disulfide bond reducing agent. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers, preferably hair, said process comprising the following steps: a) first application to the keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition comprising at least 5% by mass of water; then b) first exposure of said keratin fibers to microwave radiation.

[0002] Such a process, for example described in documents WO2011141882 and WO2013183021 on behalf of the Applicant, is intended, in particular, for shaping keratin fibers. Such a process aims, for example, to shape hair into curls, waves, or straight hair.

[0003] Known processes of this type do not always allow for rapid and efficient hair shaping, nor for lasting hold of the shape obtained.

[0004] Document WO2011141882 also cites hair styling techniques based on breaking disulfide bonds (-SS-) present in keratin. These techniques, particularly those based on compositions containing thiols, can cause damage to keratin fibers.

[0005] The present invention aims to propose a process of the aforementioned type, leading to a rapid, efficient and durable shaping of keratin fibers, while preserving the integrity of said fibers.

[0006] To this end, the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process of the aforementioned type, in which: the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino acid and / or at least one amino alcohol, in salified or non-salted form; the pH of the cosmetic composition is greater than or equal to 9; a total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 0.1% by mass relative to a total mass of said cosmetic composition; and preferably, the cosmetic composition does not contain a significant amount of disulfide bond reducing agent.

[0007] According to other advantageous aspects of the invention, the cosmetic treatment process comprises one or more of the following features, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations:

[0008] - the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino acid, said amino acid comprising at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function, preferably at least one carboxylic acid function;

[0009] - at least one amino acid comprises a single carboxylic acid function and / or a single amine function;

[0010] - at least one amino acid is chosen from taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine and isoleucine; and preferably chosen from glycine, lysine and arginine;

[0011] - the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino alcohol, said amino alcohol comprising an alkane group and an amine group, the alkane group being preferentially unbranched, and / or the amine group being preferentially a primary amine, the amine alcohol more preferentially comprising an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group;

[0012] - the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino alcohol, said amino alcohol being chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-l-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-l,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, l-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-l-propanol, 3-amino-l-propanol, 4-amino-l-butanol, 5-amino-l-pentanol, 6-amino-l-hexanol, and l,3-diamino-2-propanol; and preferably chosen from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-l-propanol, and l-amino-2-propanol;

[0013] - a total concentration of amino acids and amino alcohols, in salt form or not, in the cosmetic composition is between 1% and 25% by mass, preferably between 2% and 15% by mass, more preferably between 3% and 10% by mass, relative to a total mass of said cosmetic composition;

[0014] - the pH of the cosmetic composition is greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 10 and 12, more preferably between 10 and 11;

[0015] - the cosmetic composition further comprises an alkalizing agent selected from the hydroxides, silicates and carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals; and / or an acidifying agent selected from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid and phosphoric acid;

[0016] - step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is implemented at a radiation power between 10 W and 300 W, preferably between 20 W and 100 W;

[0017] - step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is implemented at a radiation frequency between 500 MHz and 300 GHz, preferably between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, more preferably between 900 MHz and 5 GHz, even more preferably between 2 GHz and 3 GHz;

[0018] - the cosmetic treatment process further comprises a step c) of putting under tension of the keratin fibers, step b) of exposure to microwave radiation being carried out on the keratin fibers under tension;

[0019] - step c) of energizing the keratin fibers is implemented by in rolling of said keratin fibers on a support;

[0020] - the keratin fibers under tension are arranged in a closed chamber during step b) of exposure to microwave radiation;

[0021] - the process further comprises the following steps: d) second application on the keratin fibers of the cosmetic composition; then e) second exposure of said keratin fibers to microwave radiation; steps d) and e) being carried out at least one month after steps a) and b).

[0022] The invention will be better understood upon reading the following description, given solely by way of non-limiting example and made with reference to the drawings in which:

[0023] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] is a schematic view of an assembly for the implementation of a process according to an embodiment of the invention.

[0024] Figure 1 shows an assembly 10 for implementing a method according to an embodiment of the invention. The method relates to the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as a strand of hair 12. A similar method and the associated implementation assembly are described in the previously cited documents WO2011141882 and WO2013183021.

[0025] The assembly 10 includes in particular: a cosmetic composition 14; a device 16 for exposure to microwave radiation; and optionally a support 18 for keratin fibers.

[0026] The cosmetic composition 14 is an aqueous composition. By aqueous, it is understood that it comprises at least 5% by mass of water relative to the total mass of the composition. The total mass of the composition is determined, for example, by considering a weight of said composition at a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1 atm.

[0027] More preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least 25% by mass of water, even more preferably at least 50% by mass of water, relative to a total mass of the composition.

[0028] The cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one amino acid and / or at least one amino alcohol, in salified or non-salted form.

[0029] Furthermore, the pH of the cosmetic composition is greater than or equal to 9.

[0030] Furthermore, the total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 0.1% by mass relative to the total mass of said cosmetic composition. A thiol is defined as an organic compound comprising an -SH group.

[0031] More generally, cosmetic composition 14 does not contain a significant amount of disulfide bond reducing agent.

[0032] In particular, cosmetic composition 14 does not contain a significant amount of an agent such as a thiol, an alkali sulfite, a phosphine or a hydride.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one amino acid, said amino acid comprising at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functional group, more preferably at least one carboxylic acid functional group. Even more preferably, the at least one amino acid comprises a single carboxylic acid functional group.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one amino acid comprises a single amine function.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one amino acid is selected from taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine, and isoleucine; and preferably from glycine, lysine, and arginine. More preferably, at least one amino acid is glycine, with the formula H2N-CH2-COOH.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 comprises at least one amino alcohol, said amino alcohol comprising an alkane group and an amine group. More preferably, the alkane group is unbranched and / or the amine group is a primary amine. Even more preferably, the amino alcohol comprises an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group.

[0037] Preferably, at least one amino alcohol is chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-l-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-l,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, l-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-l-propanol, 3-amino-l-propanol, 4-amino-l-butanol, 5-amino-l-pentanol, 6-amino-l-hexanol, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol and l,3-diamino-2-propanol; and more preferably chosen from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-l-propanol, and l-amino-2-propanol.

[0038] According to one embodiment, at least one amino acid or alcohol is in salified form, that is to say that the compound is in ionic form and associated with a counter-ion, mineral or organic.

[0039] The salts are for example chosen from among the salts of mineral or organic acids, in particular: halides and in particular chlorides or hydrochlorides; acetates; carbonates; hydrogen carbonates; phosphates; citrates.

[0040] According to a preferred embodiment, a total concentration of amino acids and amino alcohols, in salified or non-salted form, in the cosmetic composition 14 is between 1% and 25% by mass, more preferably between 2% and 15% by mass, even more preferably between 3% and 10% by mass, relative to a total mass of said cosmetic composition.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is greater than or equal to 10. More preferably, the pH of the cosmetic composition 14 is between 10 and 12, even more preferably between 10 and 11.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises an alkalizing agent selected from hydroxides, silicates and carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably alkali; and / or an acidifying agent selected from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid and phosphoric acid.

[0043] Alternatively, the pH is achieved using the amino compounds present in the composition, said composition preferably comprising at least one amino acid and at least one amino alcohol. In this case, preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 does not comprise an additional alkalizing agent.

[0044] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 further comprises one or more compounds selected from: solvents; silicone or non-siliconized fats; anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, silicone or non-siliconized; polymers, preferably anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric treating or thickening polymers; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents.

[0045] Preferably, the cosmetic composition 14 is in liquid or viscous form, for example in the form of a serum, gel or cream.

[0046] The microwave radiation exposure device 16 comprises a microwave generator 20. In the embodiment of the invention shown in [Fig. 1], the device 16 further comprises an antenna 22 and an enclosure 24.

[0047] In the embodiment shown, the generator 20 is capable of implementing an exposure of the keratin fibers to microwave radiation at a radiation power between 10 W and 300 W, preferably between 20 W and 100 W.

[0048] In the embodiment shown, the generator 20 is capable of implementing an exposure of the keratin fibers to microwave radiation at a radiation frequency between 500 MHz and 300 GHz, preferably between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, more preferably between 900 MHz and 5 GHz, even more preferably between 2 GHz and 3 GHz.

[0049] Preferably, the generator 20 includes an electronic module that stores a program in which the microwave power and frequency are set, and optionally an exposure time. Preferably, the generator 20 further includes an interface allowing a user to select microwave exposure parameters for the keratin fibers.

[0050] In the embodiment shown, the antenna 22 comprises a rod 26 and a base 28. The rod 26 forms a free end of the antenna 22. The base 28 extends the rod 26 and is connected to the generator 20 by an electrical connection cable 30.

[0051] The enclosure 24 is intended to contain the keratin fibers, in particular the wick 12 of hair, during exposure to microwave radiation. For this purpose, the enclosure 24 is configured to receive the antenna 22, as detailed below.

[0052] For example, the assembly 10 comprises a housing 32 including two similar elements 34, articulated to each other. Each element 34 has a cavity 36 delimited by an edge 38. The enclosure 24 is formed by the housing 32 arranged in a closed configuration, the edges 38 of the two cavities 36 being in contact with each other, said cavities 36 forming the enclosure 24.

[0053] One end of each cavity is extended by a groove 40. In closed configuration, the grooves 40 form an opening for the passage of the cable 30.

[0054] Preferably, each cavity 36 has walls 42 coated with an insulating material, allowing the microwaves to be contained inside the enclosure 24.

[0055] In the embodiment shown, the edge 38 of at least one of the cavities 36 has a series of notches 44 suitable for receiving keratin fibers, as detailed below.

[0056] Other enclosures usable within the framework of the present invention are described in the previously cited document WO2011 / 141882.

[0057] The support 18 is intended to apply tension to the keratin fibers during their exposure to microwave radiation. In the embodiment shown, the support 18 has a tubular shape. More precisely, the support 18 is of the roller or curler type.

[0058] In particular, the support 18 is intended to be received in the enclosure 24 during the exposure of the keratin fibers to microwave radiation. More specifically, the support 18 comprises: an external surface 46 of revolution, adapted to allow winding of the strand 12 of hair; and an internal space 48, open at at least one end, adapted to allow insertion of the rod 26 of the antenna 22 into said internal space.

[0059] In the embodiment shown, the device 16 and the support 18 are configured for shaping the strand 12 of hair into a curly or wavy form. In an alternative not shown, the support is designed to apply tension to the keratin fibers in an elongated or flattened configuration, to allow for their straightening. Similarly, the microwave radiation exposure device, in particular the enclosure, is configured to receive such a support.

[0060] A cosmetic treatment process according to an embodiment of the invention, implemented using the assembly 10 described above, will now be described.

[0061] We consider a lock 12 of hair forming part of a user's hair.

[0062] In a first step of the process, the strand 12 of hair is impregnated with a dose of cosmetic composition 14.

[0063] In a second step, the drill bit 12 is wound around the support 18, so that to be put under tension. In particular, a first part 50 of the strand 12, including the tips of the hair, is in contact with the external surface 46 of the support; and a second part 52 of said strand 12, located on the side of the user's skull, is kept under tension at a distance from said external surface 46.

[0064] The second winding step can be carried out before, after or simultaneously with the first impregnation step.

[0065] Preferably, the drill bit 12 is then held around the support 18 by a fastening element such as a clamp.

[0066] In a third step, the wick 12 and the support 18 are assembled to the device 16. More specifically, the rod 26 of the antenna 22 is inserted into the support 18. Then, said antenna 22 is placed in the cavity 36 of a first element 34 of the housing, the cable 30 being placed in the groove 40. The wick 12 is arranged so that the second part 52 of said wick 12 is placed in the notches 44 of the edge 38 of the cavity 36. Next, the second element 34 of the housing is folded down, so as to place said housing in a closed configuration and to form the enclosure 24. The second part 52 of the wick 12 emerges outside said enclosure, through openings formed by the notches 44.

[0067] In a fourth step, the generator 20 emits microwaves at a parameterized power and frequency. Via the antenna 22, the first part 50 of the wick 12, arranged inside the enclosure 24, is thus exposed to microwave radiation.

[0068] Microwaves, in reaction with the water contained in the cosmetic composition 14, allow in particular the generation of heat in the core of the keratin fibers and generate chemical reactions between said fibers and compounds present in the cosmetic composition 14. In particular, microwaves generate chemical reactions between the keratin fibers and the amino compound(s) of the cosmetic composition 14.

[0069] The duration of the fourth microwave exposure stage is, for example, on the order of a few minutes. Preferably, the duration of the fourth microwave exposure stage is between 1 minute and 30 minutes, more preferably between 1 minute and 10 minutes.

[0070] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process includes a step of rinsing the strand 12 of hair, preferably with water, after the fourth step of exposure to microwaves.

[0071] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process further comprises a step of applying a treatment composition to the hair strand 12, said treatment application having an acidic pH. Said step of applying a treatment composition is carried out after the fourth exposure step to microwave. Said step of applying a treatment composition can be carried out before or after a rinsing step as described above.

[0072] The cosmetic treatment process described above allows for quick and effective hair styling, particularly in curly, wavy, or straight styles. The styling provides satisfactory hold, typically lasting several months.

[0073] In addition, the treated hair is not or only slightly damaged by the cosmetic treatment, which allows for frequent renewal of said treatment.

[0074] Such a cosmetic treatment is therefore suitable for frequent hair reshaping, in order to vary the physical appearance of users on demand. EXAMPLE

[0075] A 2.7 g, 27 cm length of natural straight hair, moistened, was treated as follows.

[0076] The strand is shampooed and towel-dried, then an aqueous composition according to the invention comprising at least one amino acid is applied with a bath ratio of 0.74 g of formula per 1 g of hair at a minimum, in a regular and homogeneous manner along the strand.

[0077] The lock of hair is then wrapped and secured around a curler using a clip.

[0078] The curler is then placed inside the cavity and then treated under irradiation microwave for a total of 9 min and 15 s, with a power of 50 W for 3 min then a power of 40 W for 6 min 15 s.

[0079] The end of treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing as appropriate.

[0080] [Table 1] The following Table 1 provides information on the aqueous composition applied. Components Quantity in % by weight Glycine 4.28 Citric acid monohydrate 6.93 Sodium hydroxide (30% solution) 19.0 Water q.s.p. 100

[0081] Table 1

[0082] This process allows the strand (initially straight) to be shaped, the resulting strand is permanently curled.

Claims

Claims

1. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers (12), preferably hair, said method comprising the following steps: a) first application to the keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition (14) comprising at least 5% by mass of water; then b) first exposure of said keratin fibers to microwave radiation; the method being characterized in that: - the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amino acid and / or at least one amino alcohol, in salified form or not; - the pH of the cosmetic composition is greater than or equal to 9; - a total concentration of thiols in the cosmetic composition is less than 0.1% by mass relative to a total mass of said cosmetic composition; and - preferably, the cosmetic composition does not contain a significant quantity of disulfide bond reducing agent.

2. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 1, in which the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amino acid, said amino acid comprising at least one carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function, preferably at least one carboxylic acid function.

3. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 2, in which the at least one amino acid comprises a single carboxylic acid function and / or a single amine function.

4. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the at least one amino acid is chosen from taurine, lysine, arginine, histidine, glycine, valine, proline, alanine, leucine and isoleucine; and preferentially chosen from glycine, lysine and arginine.

5. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amino alcohol, said amino alcohol comprising an alkane group and an amine group, the alkane group preferably being unbranched, and / or the amine group preferably being a primary amine, the amino alcohol more preferably comprising an unbranched alkane group and a primary amine group.

6. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition (14) comprises at least one amino alcohol, said amino alcohol being chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, 2-methyl-2-amino-1,3-propanediol, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, 1-amino-2-propanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 6-amino-1-hexanol, and 1,3-diamino-2-propanol; and preferably chosen from monoethanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-l-propanol, and l-amino-2-propanol.

7. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which a total concentration of amino acids and amino alcohols, in salified form or not, in the cosmetic composition (14) is between 1% and 25% by mass, preferably between 2% and 15% by mass, more preferably between 3% and 10% by mass, relative to a total mass of said cosmetic composition.

8. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the pH of the cosmetic composition (14) is greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 10 and 12, more preferably between 10 and 11.

9. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition (14) further comprises an alkalizing agent chosen from hydroxides, silicates and carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals; and / or an acidifying agent chosen from hydrochloric acid, citric acid, acetic acid and phosphoric acid.

10. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is carried out at a radiation power of between 10 W and 300 W, preferably between 20 W and 100 W.

11. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, in which step b) of exposure to microwave radiation is carried out at a radiation frequency of between 500 MHz and 300 GHz, preferably between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, more preferably between 900 MHz and 5 GHz, even more preferably mainly between 2 GHz and 3 GHz.

12. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising a step c) of tensioning the keratin fibers (12), step b) of exposure to microwave radiation being carried out on the tensioned keratin fibers.

13. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 12, in which step c) of tensioning the keratin fibers is carried out by winding said keratin fibers (12) on a support (18).

14. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 12 or 13, in which the keratin fibers under tension are arranged in a closed enclosure (24) during step b) of exposure to microwave radiation.

15. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising the following steps: d) second application to the keratin fibers of the cosmetic composition (14); then e) second exposure of said keratin fibers to microwave radiation; steps d) and e) being carried out at least one month after steps a) and b).

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