Compact powder with a powder phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a non-ionic surfactant with HLB ≤ 8.0, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil

Abstract

Compact powder with a powdery phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of ≤ 8.0, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a compact powder, comprising at least: a) a powdery phase greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, etc.) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8 at 25°C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and e) at least one non-volatile oil;said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition by a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) injection into a mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, of said intermediate composition, and 2) elimination of the water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.;

Description

Title of the invention: Compact powder with a powder phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a non-ionic surfactant of HLB < 8.0, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials in the form of a compact powder, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) a powdery phase greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) at least one non-volatile oil, and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and (ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and; e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; said compact powder being prepared by a wet process with water from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), 30 to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said intermediate composition (“wet process with water”).

[0002] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition used for the preparation of such a cosmetic composition, a method of manufacturing this cosmetic composition, as well as a method of coating the skin with said cosmetic composition.

[0003] Skin care and / or makeup compositions are generally used to give an attractive color to the skin, such as the face, but also to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles.

[0004] The above-mentioned powders mainly have the function of providing color, mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin, of improving the hold of the foundation or, if used alone, of providing coverage (foundation powder, eye shadow, blush). These galenic forms are particularly appreciated by users for their lightness, softness and non-sticky or greasy feel.

[0005] Generally speaking, these compositions combine a generally predominant powdery phase with a binding phase most often represented by a liquid fatty phase. The powdery phase is essentially formed of fillers combined with pigments, the quantity of the latter being modulated to provide the desired makeup effect, generally colored.

[0006] To obtain a composition in compacted solid form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder and shaped for example by compression.

[0007] However, these compact powders have the particular disadvantage of being fragile. Thus, when the percentage of pigments increases within the product, its manufacture and compaction become complicated or even impossible to carry out on an industrial level given the quality and productivity requirements. In addition, large quantities of powder phase in the compact powder do not give satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is removed from its packaging and / or when it is applied to the surface of the skin to be made up. It is also difficult for the formulator to obtain good hold of the product on the skin. To overcome these disadvantages, if the quantity of fatty binder is increased, this composition will tend to wax, that is to say to harden during use to the point of preventing removal.

[0008] Among the qualities sought for compact makeup powders, we can cite: - good cohesion and homogenization of the composition, - good impact resistance, - a good texture, - appropriate hardness, - good adhesion to the skin, - good sampling regardless of the applicator (in terms of sufficient quantity of product); - comfort on application without drying effect on the skin, - good powder holding properties - good sensory properties at the time of sampling - good sensory properties at the time of application of the product.

[0009] 11 is known from the prior art, in particular in patents EP2640343B1, EP2640342B1, EP2773428B1, FR2982153B1, FR2985181B1, to manufacture such compact powders from an aqueous intermediate composition comprising from 30 to 60% by weight of water, a powdery phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an elastomer of organopolysiloxane, an emulsifying system and at least one non-volatile oil in a wet preparation process with water called "WET PROCESS WITH WATER", to inject one or more powder(s) of given shade into a respective mold or cup. Said aqueous and oily intermediate composition allows the fluidification of the powder and the formation of a slurry called "slurry", its shaping by injection into a mold or cup then the elimination of the aqueous phase, in particular by placing the composition under vacuum during the injection step followed by drying in an oven to obtain the final compact powder.

[0010] However, some of these formulations are not fully satisfactory in terms of picking up the powder from its packaging (pick-up) and in terms of depositing the product on the skin ("pay-off"), particularly with certain applicators such as sponge applicators and brushes.

[0011] There therefore remains a need to produce new compact cosmetic powders for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as skin obtained by the wet process with water for which the collection and application regardless of the applicator, in particular a brush, are improved compared to the compact powders known from the prior art as mentioned above.

[0012] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective is achieved with a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) a powdery phase greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) at least one non-volatile oil, and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and (ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and; e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition by a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) injection into a mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, of said com- intermediate position, and 2) removal of the aqueous phase from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0013] The compact powder according to the invention has, whatever the shade, a pleasant creamy texture, good cohesion and homogenization, good sensory properties, good impact resistance, ease of collection and application to keratin materials such as the skin whatever the applicator and in particular with a brush.

[0014] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0015] The present invention therefore relates to a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) a powdery phase greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (b) at least one non-volatile oil, and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and (ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and; e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition by a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) injection into a mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, of said intermediate composition, and 2) removal of the aqueous phase from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0016] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0018] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids).

[0019] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms are intended to denote: - by "solid", the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa), that is to say a composition of high consistency, which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - by "compact powder", a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compacting or preferably pressing during manufacture. In particular, when carrying out a measurement by Zwick, the measurement of this hardness is carried out by means of a truncated measuring tip and a measuring force is applied to the sample to be tested.

[0021] The tip penetrates the sample, and the durometer measures the distance it moves in the powder. This movement is translated into Shore A hardness units.

[0022] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 3.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, or even is free of water.

[0023] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 90.0%, better still 95.0%, or even 97.0%.

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the content of non-volatile matter.

[0025] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured by means of a potentiometer according to method 19003-01

[0026] The Dry Extract content is calculated as follows: Dry Extract Content (expressed in % by weight) = 100 x (Dry Mass / Wet Mass). Powder phase

[0027] A solid composition according to the invention has a pulverulent phase content greater than or equal to 35.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 50 to 80% by weight, better still from 60 to 75% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The powdery phase preferably comprises at least one filler and more preferably at least one filler and at least one particulate coloring matter. Fillers

[0029] By "fillers" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give the composition softness, mattness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0030] The filler or fillers used in the composition of the invention is (are) chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers and their mixtures.

[0031] The filler or fillers used in the composition of the invention is (are) present in the composition of the invention, preferably, at a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, silica, magnesium and aluminum silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 300®; Sunsphere H-33®, Sunsphere H-51® marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen® marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, perlite powders, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (TeflonO), lauroyl-lysine, starches such as native corn starches with the INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, modified starches such as aluminum starch octenyl-succinate (DRY FLO), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearl®, for example), spherical organopolysiloxane elastomer powders with INCI name: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL TREFIL E-506 S SILICONE POWDER®, DOWSIL 9506 POWDER® de DOW CORNING CHEMICAL), polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer, marketed under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® by the company TOSHIKI, Carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba and synthetic wax,such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS; fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, single or organized, for example braided, hollow or solid. Their shape can be of any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their section can be included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 pm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 pm and better still from 1 pm to 50 pm; and their mixtures.

[0034] According to a particular form, the filler or fillers used in the composition of the invention is (are) chosen from talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, magnesium and aluminum silicates, lauroyl lysine, native starches such as native corn starches with the INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH; and mixtures thereof. Particulate coloring matter

[0035] The particulate coloring matter(s) according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from pigments, nacres, reflective particles and mixtures thereof. Pigments

[0036] By “pigments” is meant particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

[0037] The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0038] Among the mineral pigments, we can cite titanium dioxides, oxides zirconium or cerium, as well as zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), chromium oxides, manganese violet, blue, pink or ultramarine violet, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

[0039] The organic pigments can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes.

[0040] Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0041] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic coloring materials cited above are mentioned in the work “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association”.

[0042] A composition according to the invention may comprise a pigment content of less than or equal to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mother-of-pearl

[0043] By "mother-of-pearl" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0044] Examples of nacres include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0045] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow color or reflection, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, purple and / or copper.

[0046] As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super Bronze® (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite);copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opale G005® (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.;

[0047] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0048] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

[0049] Finally, as examples of mother-of-pearl, we can also cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004® (silver flakes).

[0050] A composition according to the invention may comprise a nacre content of less than or equal to 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Reflective particles

[0051] The term “reflective particles” means particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) constituting it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.

[0052] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

[0053] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.

[0054] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

[0055] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

[0056] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.

[0057] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

[0058] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.

[0059] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0060] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

[0061] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS® by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550®, GF 2525® by the same company.

[0062] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE® by the company ECKART.

[0064] According to a particular form of the invention, the particulate coloring matter(s) is (are) chosen from - titanium dioxides (CI: 77891) such as the commercial product HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® sold by the company VENATOR; - yellow iron oxides (CI: 77492), red iron oxides (CI: 77491), black iron oxides (CI: 77499), and their mixtures such as commercial products sold under the name SUNPURO® from the company SUN; - pearlescent agents such as those based on mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, such as the product sold under the trade name TIMIRON PEARL SHEEN MP 30® by the company MERCK; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide, such as the product sold under the trade name RONAFLAIR LOW LUSTER PIGMENT® by the company MERCK; - bismuth oxychloride such as the product sold under the trade name RONAFLAIR LF 2000® by the company MERCK; - their mixtures. Non-volatile oil

[0065] The composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0066] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature. (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 105 Pa). These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0067] The non-volatile oil or oils may be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0068] The non-volatile oil or oils is (are) present in the composition of the invention, preferably at a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0070] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0071] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104); - their mixtures. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0072] As an example of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate; triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and, in particular, from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil,rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil plant, and, watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, in particular those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or in particular those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a residue of at least one linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, such as for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, stearate octyldodecyl stearoyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates,and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; , - pentaerythritol esters, such as dipen-taerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids, - copolymers of dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters, such as dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, - copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, alcohol oleic; - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; - their mixtures.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils is (are) chosen from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof and more particularly chosen from isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl dodecanol and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0074] As non-volatile silicone oils, we can cite: - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) in particular, with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s (est), in particular 350 mm2 / s (est) such as the commercial products sold under the names BELSIL DM 350® from the company WACKER, XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID® 350CS by the company DOW CORNING; polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 150 mm2 / s (est), in particular 100 mm2 / s (est) such as the commercial products sold under the names BELSIL DM 100® from WACKER, XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 100CS® by DOW CORNING. - phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. Organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form

[0075] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil.

[0076] These particular elastomers, when combined with the pulverulent phase required elsewhere according to the invention, make it possible to obtain properties of softness as well as comfort (flexibility of the deposit) at the level of the deposits formed on the skin from the compositions comprising them.

[0077] By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to return to its original shape after stretching.

[0078] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopo-lysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

[0079] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

[0080] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0081] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0082] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0083] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0084] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be easily miscible with compound (B).

[0085] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0086] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydroge- copolymers trimethylsiloxy-terminated nosiloxane, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0087] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the straight chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0088] In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0089] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.

[0090] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0091] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0092] It is advantageous if the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0093] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

[0094] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0095] Organopolysiloxane elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.

[0096] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

[0097] The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl units.

[0098] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from those with the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3.

[0099] The organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

[0100] According to a particular form, the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a hydrocarbon oil of the isoalkane type, in particular isododecane.

[0101] According to another particular form, the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 mm2 / s at 25°C.

[0102] Mention may in particular be made of the organopolysiloxane elastomers in gel form with the following INCI names: - DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “KSG-6®” and “KSG-16®” from the company Shin Etsu; - CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE such as “KSG-15®”, - CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “DC9040®”, “DC9045®” and “DC5930®” from Dow Corning, - DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “DC9041®” from the company Dow Corning.

[0103] In a particularly preferred manner, an organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel with the INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “KSG-6®” and “KSG-16®” from Shin Etsu Company

[0104] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer or elastomers in gel form is (are) present in a dry matter content greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a ratio such that the mass proportion of organopolysiloxane elastomer relative to the powder phase is between 0.05 and 0.35, preferably from 0.10 to 0.20, and even more preferably from 0.10 to 0.12. Emulsifying system

[0106] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying system comprising: (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic chemical compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity in its structure. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilicity Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method.

[0108] i) Non-ionic surfactant(s) with HLB less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C

[0109] The non-ionic surfactant(s) with HLB less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C is (are) preferably chosen from: - esters and ethers of oses such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan esters such as sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sesquioleate sorbitan, methyl glucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tri-behenate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose hexa-erucate, and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by the company ICI or SPAN 65V from the company UNIQEMA; - esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and of polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyglycerolated diisostearate, polyglycerolated isostearate, polyglycerolated monostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, diethylene glycol (di-)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl penta-diisostearate, glyceryl caprate / caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate; - oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols which may contain from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72® marketed by the company UNIQEMA, oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol; - fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicone compounds, having for example from 3 to 20 oxyalkylenated units and in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated dimethicones; - the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company DOW CORNING; and their mixture(s).

[0110] According to a particularly preferred form, the non-ionic surfactant(s) with HLB less than 8.0 at 25°C is chosen from sorbitan esters, in particular sorbitan monoisostearate.

[0111] The total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C is preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C varies from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) Lysophospholipid

[0112] A lysophospholipid designates a phospholipid having lost one or more acyl groups by enzymatic hydrolysis, in particular by a phospholipase-type enzyme.

[0113] Among the lysophospholipids used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of: - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline also called lysolecithin (LPC) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Inositol (LPI) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Ethanolamine (LPE) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Acid (LPA); - their mixtures.

[0114] More preferably, the lysophospholipid is Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline also called lysolecithin (LPC) with the following structure:

[0115] [Chem.l] where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.

[0116] The Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin used in the composition of the invention is preferably present in a soybean seed extract, in particular an extract with the INCI name: GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT.

[0117] More preferably, said soybean seed extract with the INCI name: GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT is in the form of a mixture of said extract with glycerin. More particularly, said mixture comprises from 64 to 82% by weight of glycerin and from 18-36% by weight of GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT soybean seed extract relative to the total weight of the mixture, such as the product sold by the company Kemin under the trade name LYSOFIX LIQUID®.

[0118] Preferably, the mixture of glycerin and soybean seed extract with the INCI name: GLYCERIN (and) GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT is present in a concentration ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0119] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.

[0120] For the purposes of the present application, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. More particularly, the function performed by these hydrophilic gelling agents is to structure the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition, in such a way as to maintain a structured composition once the water has been removed from said composition. This gelling agent may be introduced with the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition or with the powder phase. This gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition.

[0121] The gelling agent that can be used according to the invention can in particular be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (q = 1 Hz) by a flow threshold (je) at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C* can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer considered.

[0122] The gelling agent may be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to adjust the rigidity modulus G*(1Hz, 25°C) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10000 Pa, in particular ranging from 10000 Pa to 100000 Pa.

[0123] The method for measuring these composition parameters is for example described in application EP1534218 in the paragraph entitled “rheological characterization”. Thickening fillers

[0124] Thickening fillers can fulfill this function of gelling the aqueous phase. Such fillers preferably comprise a clay capable of swelling in water and / or hollow mineral or organic microspheres.

[0125] The clay present in the composition according to the invention is a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration.

[0126] Clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described for example in the work "Minéralogie des argiles, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson".

[0127] Clays are silicates containing a cation advantageously chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations and their mixtures.

[0128] Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as from the vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites.

[0129] These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with the skin.

[0130] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the clay capable of swelling in water used is chosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites, and more particularly hectorites and bentonites.

[0131] As clay capable of swelling in water which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) such as the products sold by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG®, Laponite RD®, Laponite RDS® (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC® by the company RHEOX; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated ones, such as the product sold by the company Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum Ultra®, or calcium silicates and in particular that in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C®.

[0132] Preferably, when a thickening filler is used as a hydrophilic gelling agent, such as a clay, at least one separate additional filler is provided in said powder phase of the composition.

[0133] The clay may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and better still 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polymeric hydrophilic thickeners

[0134] More particularly, this gelling agent can be chosen from the following polymeric thickeners: - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names “VERSICOL F®” or “VERSICOL K®” by the company ALLIED COLLOID, “UTRAHOLD 8®” by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K® type, and salts, in particular sodium, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the INCI name: SODIUM ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name SODIUM ACRYLATE COPOLYMER (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE) sold under the name “LUVIGEL EM ®” by the company, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names “RETEN®” by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name “DARVAN N°7®” by the company VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name “HYDAGEN F ®” by the company HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, CARBOPOL ETD 2020® and even more preferably PEMULEN TR-2®; - AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL®® or SIMULGEL® type marketed by the company SEPPIC, in particular a copolymer with the INCI name POLY-ACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7; - AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS® type marketed by the company CLARIANT, and their mixtures.

[0135] Other examples of polymeric thickeners include: - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as - galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellan gum, Carob gum, Fennugreek gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay), guar hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, xanthan gums; - alginates and carrageenans; - glycoaminoglycans; - deoxyribonucleic acid; - muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and their mixtures.

[0136] According to a particularly particular embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from associative polymers.

[0137] By "associative polymer" within the meaning of the present invention, we mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric. Associative anionic polymers

[0138] Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly among those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or their mixtures, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

[0139] CH2 = C(R')CH2 O BnR (I) in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0140] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

[0141] Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.

[0142] Among the associative anionic polymers, according to a preferred embodiment, there may be copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0143] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0144] As an example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (comprising 20 EO units) or Aculyn 28® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylene behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (25EO).

[0145] As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type. Mention may be made, as an example, of the anionic polymers described and prepared, according to the patents US3915921 and US4509949. Cationic associative polymers

[0146] As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with amino side groups.

[0147] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular, - quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

[0148] Polyacrylates with amine side groups, quaternized or not, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth 20 type (poly-oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20).

[0149] The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0150] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the products QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA.

[0151] Examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains include polymers 8781-121B® or 9492-103® from the company NATIONAL STARCH. Non-ionic associative polymers

[0152] The non-ionic associative polymers may be chosen from: - celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (Cl6 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, - celluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) ether nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain, - copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with a fatty chain; - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, - copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, - associative polyurethanes

[0153] Associative polyurethanes are non-ionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated (the polyurethanes can then be called polyether polyurethanes) and hydrophobic blocks which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0154] In particular, these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C6 to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0155] Associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers can also be in graft or star form. Preferably, associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0156] According to a preferred embodiment, a non-ionic associative polymer of the polyether polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

[0157] As an example of polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer C16-OE120-C16® from the company SERVO DELDEN (under the name SER AD FX1100®, molecule with urethane function and weight average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated unit.

[0158] As associative polyether polyurethane polymer, it is also possible to use Rhéolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolate 208® or 204® or Rhéolate FX 1100® by Elementis with the INCI name STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. RHOM & HAAS DW 1206B® product with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0159] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD 1070® from the company SERVO DELDEN, Rhéolate 255®, Rhéolate 278® and Rhéolate 244® sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product Aculyn 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol 44® from the company ROHM & HAAS, or even Borchigel LW 44® from the company BORCHERS, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - guar hydroxypropylguar which can be modified, in particular hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methyl arboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay), guar hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium chloride, - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol; - anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22® by Rohm & Haas, - non-ionic associative polymers of the polyurethane polyether type, such as STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER sold under the name Rhéolate FX 1100® by Elementis). Amphoteric associative polymers

[0161] Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of amphoteric polymers, crosslinked or not crosslinked, branched or not branched, capable of being obtained by copolymerization 1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb): [Chem 2] [Chem 3] in which R4 and R5, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R6, R7 and R8, identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5, A- is an anion from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide: [Chem 4] (V) 9 H >0 1 in which R9 and RIO, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; ZI represents an OH group or an NHC(CH3)2CH2SO3H group; 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI): [Chem 5] RC“CRw»COXRt1 fVI) ' h •" in which R9 and RIO, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and RI 1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; 4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) being able to be quaternized for example by a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0162] The monomers of formula (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: - dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate, - diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, - dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, - dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized for example by a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0163] More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.

[0164] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

[0165] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0166] The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N,N'-methylene bis-acrylamide, triallyl methyl ammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

[0167] The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as non-ionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0168] The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to approximately 1.

[0169] The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers have a weight-average molecular mass greater than 500, preferably between 10,000 and 1,000,000 and even more preferably between 100,000 and 8,000,000.

[0170] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 to 99 mol %, more preferably from 20 to 95 mol % and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 to 80 mol %, more preferably from 5 to 80 mol % and even more preferably from 25 to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 and 70 mol %, more preferably between 1 to 50 mol % and even more preferably between 1 to 10 mol %. The crosslinking or branching agent when present is preferably between 0.0001 and 1 mole% and more preferably still between 0.0001 and 0.1 mole%.

[0171] Preferably the molar ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) varies from 20:80 to 95:5 and more preferably from 25:75 to 75:25.

[0172] The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are for example described in patent application WO9844012.

[0173] The amphoteric polymers particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, and more par- particularly xanthan gums.

[0175] The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition in a dry matter content ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Intermediate composition

[0176] The present invention relates to an intermediate composition comprising at least the ingredients a), b), c), d) and e) of the composition of the invention as defined above and f) from 30 to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

[0177] Said intermediate composition is in the form of a mud or "slurry" and is intended to be injected into a mold or cup. It comprises a non-volatile phase comprising the components a), b), c), d), e) found in the composition of the invention in the form of a compact powder to be applied to the keratin material such as the skin and a volatile phase consisting of water, used as a solvent to allow the injection molding of said composition. The water is intended to be eliminated at least in part or even completely from said composition to be applied by the user.

[0178] The non-volatile phase of the intermediate composition comprising components a), b), c), d), e) is preferably present at a content of 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Manufacturing process

[0179] The present invention also relates, according to a third aspect, to a process for manufacturing the solid composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention from an intermediate composition as defined above.

[0180] This method comprises the steps: - injection into a cup or mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, of said intermediate composition, and - removing water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0181] The intermediate composition can be passed through a device of the Pilote Back Injection Machine® type sold by the company PLASTICO (SPAIN). The latter is injected into one or more molds, or cups, within which the water carrying the powder phase is then eliminated. This water can advantageously be eliminated by vacuuming and / or steaming and / or microwave drying and / or freeze-drying and / or infrared drying of said intermediate composition. The advantage of such devices is that they can be equipped with several injection heads, thus making it possible to easily and simultaneously produce several distinct compositions in the form of compact powder, for example of different shades. Adjuvants

[0182] The composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, moisturizing agents, UV filters, perfumes.

[0183] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Cosmetic applications

[0184] The composition of the invention in the form of compact powder can be a skin care product.

[0185] The composition of the invention in the form of compact powder may be a skin makeup product, in particular for the face such as a foundation, for the cheeks such as a blush, for the eyelids such as an eyeshadow. Together

[0186] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: (i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element; and ii) a makeup and / or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

[0187] The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a box.

[0188] The closure element may be in the form of a lid or a tear-off seal. In particular, this closure element may comprise a cap mounted to be movable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s).

[0189] It is understood that in the context of the present invention the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0191] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present application. Examples

[0192] Example 1 according to the invention was prepared a composition of the invention comprising as emulsifying system, the combination of Sorbitan Isostearate and a lysophospholipid in the form of a mixture comprising from 64 to 82% by weight of glycerin and 18-36% by weight of GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT soybean seed extract relative to the total weight of the mixture (LYSOFIX LIQUID®).

[0193] An example outside the invention was prepared, identical to Example 1 but containing Sorbitan Isostearate alone.

[0194] An example 1b outside the invention was prepared, identical to example 1b, comprising as emulsifying system, Sorbitan Isostearate associated with the surfactant Polysorbate-80 in place of the lysophospholipid.

[0195] [Tableauxl] Phases 1( Composés Exl Exl a Exl b BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE / CI 77163 (RONAFLAIR LF 2000® - MERCK) 4,0 4,0 4,0 MICA (MEARLMICA SV® - BASF) 1,6 1,6 1,6 TALC (IMERCARE PHARMA 5T® - IMERYS) 15,9 15,9 15,9 MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE / ARGILLA (VEEGUM HV GRANULES® de VANDERBILT) 0,5 0,5 0,5 AMIDON DE MAÏS ZEA (MST® de LCW SENSIENT) 2,0 2,0 2,0 LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPE LL® -AJINOMOTO) 9,9 9,9 9,9 GOMME DE XANTHANE (KELTROL CG-T® de CP KELCO) 0,2 0,2 0,2 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE ( SYNAFIL S 1050® - ECKART) qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 TITANIUM DIOXIDE / CI 77891 (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® - VENATOR) 2,2 2,2 2,2 IRON OXIDES / CI 77499 (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® -SUN) 0,2 0,2 0,2 IRON OXIDES / CI 774910 (SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® - SUN) 0,7 0,7 0,7 IRON OXIDES / CI 77492 (SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® -SUN) 1,6 1,6 1,6 2 MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE / CI 77891 (TIMIRON PEARL SHEEN MP 30® - MERCK) 9,9 9,9 9,9 MICA (and) BARIUM SULFATE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE CI 77891 (RONAFLAIR LOW LUSTER PIGMENT® - MERCK) 9,9 9,9 9,9 3 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (SPAN 120® - CRODA)) 3,0 3,0 3,0 GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT / GLYCINE SOJA SEED EXTRACT (LYSOFIX LIQUID® - LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS (IFF)) 1,0 M.A * 0 0 POLYSORBATE-80 (TWEEN 80® - CRODA) 0 0 1,0 ISOTRIDECYL ISONONANOATE (WICKENOL 153® - ALZO) 3,0 3,0 3,0 PETROLATUM (ULTIMA EP WHITE PET USP® - CALUMET SPECIALTY) 1,0 1,0 1,0 OCTYLDODECANOL (EUTANOL G® - BASF) 4,0 4,0 4,0 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 1 1 1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,7 0,7 0,7 4 DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL TREFIL E-506 S SILICONE POWDER® - DOW CORNING) 0,3 0,3 0,3 DIMETHICONE 76% en poids (and) DL METHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 24% en poids (KSG-16® - SHIN ETSU) 3,7 3,7 3,7 *M.A. = matière active Procédé de préparation :

[0196] The procedure below was implemented to carry out examples 1, 1a and 1b. Preparation for phase 1:

[0197] In a large stainless steel bowl, the compounds of phase 1 and the pigments of phase 1 were weighed and then ground in the Robot-coupe, first once for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then three times for one minute at 3000 rpm. Preparation of phase 2:

[0198] In a second cup, the mother-of-pearl from phase 2 was weighed and added to phase 1, the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2) was ground in the Robot-coupe (R5 or R5 plus) twice for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm. Incorporation of phase 3:

[0199] The compounds of phase 3 were weighed into a 250 ml beaker and then heated in a water bath at 75°C. When phase 3 had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator (TURBOTEST 33 / 300 PH® - RAYNERI, VMI group) until a vortex formed (approximately 300 rpm) and then added with stirring via the lid of the robot-coupe once a minute at 1500 rpm, to the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2). Preparation for phase 4:

[0200] The compounds of phase 4 previously mixed in the deflocculator were weighed in a small stainless steel cup, added to the rest of the preparation, then ground in the robot-coupe, first once for one minute at 1500 rpm, then twice for two minutes at 3000 rpm and finally once for one minute at 3000 rpm. Finalization of the preparation:

[0201] Each powder obtained was then diluted in demineralized water. The quantity of water is between 30 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in order to obtain a viscosity suitable for a so-called Pilot Back Injection machine sold by the company PLASTICO (SPAIN). This Back Injection machine made it possible to inject the “powder-water” mixture, also called slurry, through the bottom of the cup and to simultaneously suck up part of the dilution water. Throughout the injection of the product, the injection mold was placed under vacuum in order to allow the elimination of the water which was sucked up and recovered in the vacuum trap. The vacuum thus made it possible to promote the filling of the cup and its homogenization.

[0202] The injected back pieces are then placed in a ventilated oven at 50°C until their weight no longer changes. The product was then considered dry. Each powder obtained contained 0.5% by weight of water. Hardness measurement

[0203] A Zwick hardness measurement was carried out on each compact powder obtained. It was carried out using a truncated measuring tip and applied a measuring force on the sample to be tested. The tip penetrates the sample, and the durometer measures the distance it moves in the powder. This movement is translated into Shore A hardness units. The cup is placed in its center under the measuring tip and the value is read on 3 different cups to take an average.

[0204] Results:

[0205] [Tables2] Formula Exl (invention) Ex la (outside invention) Ex 1b (outside invention) Average hardness 6.0 11.0 11.7

[0206] It was observed that Example 1 according to the invention comprising, as emulsifying system, Sorbitan Isostearate and a lysophospholipid had an average hardness approximately twice lower than that of Example 1a outside the invention comprising Sorbitan Isostearate alone and that of Example 1b outside the invention comprising Sorbitan Isostearate combined with Polysorbate-80.

[0207] Measurement of deposit intensity (pay off) / homogeneity of sponge deposit

[0208] MATERIAL - LANCOME DUAL FINISH® sponge applicator - Supplale® support (manufacturer IDEMISTUPETROCHEMICAL, composition: collagen sheet with artificial relief glued to a fabric) preheated on a heating plate at 32°C; - Cup already used at least once and not visually damaged Principle of measurement

[0209] A piece of Supplale® was placed on the heating plate to temper it to 32°C.

[0210] Each product to be tested was sampled by performing a transverse movement 3 times, holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the powder and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0211] Then each product to be tested was placed on the Supplale by performing a transverse movement once, holding the sponge at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the Supplale® and parallel to the direction of movement. The application surface is approximately 7 cm long by the width of the sponge.

[0212] The result obtained was then noted on a scale of 0 to 5 according to intensity in relation to pre-established limits. 5 is equivalent to very good 4 is equal to good 3 is equivalent to medium 2 equals mediocre 1 equals low 0 equals impossible.

[0213] A deviation of at least 1 is considered significant.

[0214] The results of the comparative tests are shown in the table above.

[0215] [Tables3] Formula Exl (invention) Ex la (excluding invention) Ex 1b (excluding invention) Pay off intensity 5 4 2 Pay off homogeneity 5 2 4

[0216] It was observed that Example 1 according to the invention comprising the emulsifying system Sorbitan Isostearate and a lysophospholipid exhibited a more intense and more homogeneous deposit of the product on the skin (payoff) compared to Example 1a outside the invention comprising Sorbitan Isostearate alone and Example 1b outside the invention comprising Sorbitan Isostearate combined with Polysorbate-80.

Claims

1.

2.

3.

4.

5. Claims Solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) a powdery phase greater than or equal to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one non-volatile oil, and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and; e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising f) water in a content ranging from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), by a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) injection into a mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, of said intermediate composition, and 2) removing water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step. Composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 3.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, or even is free of water. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a dry extract content greater than or equal to 90.0%, better still 95.0%, or even 97.0%. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the content of powder phase is greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 50 to 80% by weight, better still 60 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the powdery phase comprises at least one filler, and more preferably at least one filler and at least one particulate coloring matter.

6. Composition according to claim 5, where the filler or fillers used in the composition of the invention is (are) present at a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 35 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the filler or fillers is (are) chosen from talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, magnesium and aluminum silicates, lauroyl lysine, native starches such as native corn starches with INCI name: ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH; and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to claim 5 where the particulate coloring matter(s) is (are) chosen from pigments, nacres, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the particulate coloring matter(s) is (are) chosen from: - titanium dioxides (CI: 77891); - yellow iron oxides (CI: 77492), red iron oxides (CI: 77491), black iron oxides (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof; - pearlescent agents such as those based on mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide; - bismuth oxychloride; - mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the pigment content is less than or equal to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, and preferentially from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, where the nacre content is less than or equal to 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 50% by weight, and preferentially from 20 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil or oils is (are) present in the composition of the invention, preferably at a content ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile oil or oils is (are) chosen from esters of synthesis, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl dodecanol and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is chosen from those with the following INCI names: - DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE; - DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) CYCLOPENTASILOXANE; - CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, - DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, and more particularly DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer or elastomers in gel form is (are) present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein T (the) non-ionic surfactant(s) with HLB less than 8.0 at 25 C is chosen from sorbitan esters, in particular is sorbitan monoisostearate.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, and more particularly varies from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the lysophospholipid is chosen from: - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline also called lysolecithin (LPC) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Inositol (LPI) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Ethanolamine (LPE) - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Acid (LPA); - their mixtures.

19. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the lysophospholipid is Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin (LPC) of the following structure: ch3 H3c—N—CH3 TV ^R ?ï° VA OH R 0 where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.

20. Composition according to claim 19, wherein Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin is present in a soybean seed extract, in particular an extract with the INCI name: GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT.

21. Composition according to claim 20, wherein the extract of INCI name: GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT is in the form of a mixture of said extract with glycerin, and more particularly a mixture comprising from 64 to 82% by weight of glycerin and 18-36% by weight of GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT soybean seed extract by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

22. Composition according to claim 21, wherein the mixture of glycerin and GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT is present in a concentration ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, and more particularly from xanthan gums.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) present in a dry matter content greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Intermediate composition comprising at least ingredients a), b), c), d) and e) of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims and f) from 30 to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

26. An intermediate composition according to claim 25, wherein the non-volatile phase comprising components a), b), c), d), e) is preferably present at a content of 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. A method of manufacturing the solid composition in the form of a compact powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24, comprising at least the following steps: - injecting the intermediate composition according to claim 25 or 26 into a cup or mold, preferably through the bottom of the latter, and - removing water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step, in particular by vacuuming and / or steaming and / or microwave drying and / or freeze-drying and / or infrared drying of said intermediate composition.

28. Cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element; and ii) a solid composition in the form of a compact powder as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24 arranged inside said compartment(s).

29. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition in the form of a compact powder according to any one of claims 1 to 24.