Two-step process for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials; fixing composition

Abstract

Two-step method for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials; fixing composition The present invention relates to a method for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) application to the surface of the keratin material of a first layer consisting of a care and / or makeup composition (B); 2) application to the first layer thus formed of a second fixing layer by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one fixing anionic polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type;and (b) at least one fixing amphoteric polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from:i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group,ii) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, andiii) at least one basic comonomer; and(c) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol; and(d) at least one plasticizer and (e) at least one propellant.;

Description

Title of the invention: Two-step process for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials; fixing composition

[0001] The present application relates to the field of coating keratin materials, in particular skin.

[0002] Currently, on the market for the care and makeup of keratin materials such as skin, many products claim to have all-day hold, resistance to external aggressions such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc. (long-lasting foundation), non-transfer of the product onto substrates such as clothing and comfort in application. Long-lasting products for the face, usable at home, are mainly based on synthetic film-forming polymers in the presence of organic solvents. For compositions for facial makeup, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a film-forming agent, such as the compound with the INCI name: Trimethylsiloxysilicate or a compound with the INCI name: Polypropylsilsesquioxane, or a silicone acrylate copolymer such as the product with the INCI name: Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer).

[0003] In addition to these long-lasting products, the current trend is towards semi-permanent makeup. More specifically, in recent years, classic makeup products have encountered competition from the semi-permanent makeup market in professional salons. This is found in the complexion sector (freckles, moles or the entire face, healthy glow effect or healthy complexion). This new trend is pushing consumers to seek longer and longer wear for greater practicality (avoiding the need to apply and remove makeup daily, a healthy glow effect upon waking, etc.).

[0004] Aerosol products for facial care and / or makeup are known on the market for fixing previously applied makeup. They generally contain, in an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or anhydrous alcoholic medium, a fixing polymer such as the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer with the INCI name: VP / VA Copolymer and at least one propellant: butane, propane, isopropane. Examples include the products Schwarzkopf Clock Block Make-Up Fixing Spray® (Henkel), Diego Dalla Palma Make-Up Fixer® (AGGF Cosmetic Group, Italy) and Make-Up Fixing Spray Catrice Haute Couleur® (Cosnova). Also included are the aqueous fixing aerosol with the film-forming polymers VP / Eicosene Copolymer and Di-methicone Crosspolymer.

[0005] Also known are makeup fixing sprays containing in an alcoholic medium a fixing polymer such as the copolymer Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer such as the commercial product Make-Up Fixing Spray My Health Mood Care® (Aeroflex Indûstria de Aerossol), the hydroalcoholic product April Skin Fixing Make-Up Fixer® with the film-forming polymer Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

[0006] However, these compositions are not fully satisfactory in terms of hold, particularly in terms of resistance to external aggressions such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, in terms of non-transfer and / or in terms of comfort on application, particularly due to the deposit of a film which crumbles (friable) and / or the tightness of the skin due to the lack of flexibility and elasticity of the deposited film.

[0007] The aim of the present invention is to propose new aerosol devices for fixing a care product and / or makeup for keratin materials such as the skin which offer excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup, good non-transfer properties on substrates such as clothing as well as comfort on application to keratin materials resulting in particular in the deposition of a flexible, elastic and non-friable film.

[0008] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a method for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) application to the surface of the keratin material of a first layer (“Base-Coat”) consisting of a care and / or makeup composition (B); 2) application to the first layer thus formed, of a second fixing layer (“Top Coat”) by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one fixing anionic polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type; and (b) at least one amphoteric fixing polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer; and (c) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol; and (d) at least one plasticizer and (e) at least one propellant.

[0009] Said aerosol device is capable, by spraying the composition (A), on the first layer consisting of the composition (B), of producing a homogeneous film, of long-lasting, non-transfer and comfortable to apply, notably resulting in the absence of stickiness and tightness on the skin.

[0010] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0011] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a method for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) application to the surface of the keratin material of a first layer (“Base-Coat”) consisting of a care and / or makeup composition (B); 2) application on the first layer thus formed, of a second fixing layer (“Top Coat”) by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one fixing anionic polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type; and (b) at least one amphoteric fixing polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer; and (c) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol; and (d) at least one plasticizer and (e) at least one propellant.

[0012] A second object of the present invention is a cosmetic set or kit with two separately packaged components comprising: 1) the aerosol device containing composition (A) and 2) the composition (B) of care and / or makeup.

[0013] A third subject of the present invention is a composition (A) as defined above not containing silicone, hydrocarbon propellant and hydrofluorocarbon agent. Definitions

[0014] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids), the lips and / or its appendages such as the eyelashes or eyebrows, and more particularly the skin.

[0015] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate no unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0016] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any material obtained by the (co)polymerization of monomers. These monomers may be identical or different. Unless otherwise indicated, the term polymers therefore encompasses both homopolymers and copolymers.

[0017] Unless otherwise indicated, when the compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts or their solvates, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean. In particular, by crotonic acid polymers, by acid comonomers containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, by basic comonomers, are also understood their corresponding salts.

[0018] For the purposes of the invention, the term "fixing polymer" means any polymer capable, after application to keratin materials, in particular the skin, of forming a strong film, in particular having good adhesion and good resistance to external aggressions such as water, sebum, mechanical friction as well as good non-transfer properties.

[0019] By "silicone" is meant any compound formed from a silicon-oxygen chain -Si-O-Si-O-Si-O in which organic groups are attached to the silicon atoms.

[0020] By “hydrocarbon” is meant any compound consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0021] By "hydrofluorocarbon" is meant any compound consisting exclusively of carbon atom(s), hydrogen atom(s) and fluorine atom(s).

[0022] By “composition not containing silicone” is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compound, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of silicone compound.

[0023] By "composition not containing hydrocarbon propellant" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of hydrocarbon propellant, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of silicone compound.

[0024] By "composition not containing a hydrofluorocarbon propellant" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of hydrofluorocarbon propellant, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of silicone compound. Composition (A) (Top Coat)

[0025] The composition (A) according to the invention packaged in an aerosol device comprises, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one anionic fixing polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type; and (b) at least one amphoteric fixing polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer; and (c) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol; and (d) at least one plasticizer and (e) at least one propellant.

[0026] Anionic fixing polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type (a)

[0027] The fixing anionic polymers (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type which can be used in the composition (A) of the invention, can be chosen from those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl, allylic or methallyl ester monomer of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid.

[0028] The fixing anionic polymers (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type can be neutralized from 0 to 100% by a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH) or by an organic base such as amines and amino alcohols. 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl, also called aminomethyl propanediol or AMPD, or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, also called aminomethylpropanol (AMP), will be used more particularly, preferably 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, also called aminomethylpropanol.

[0029] Such polymers are described, among others, in French patents nos. FR1222944, FR1580545, FR2265782, FR2265781, FR1564110 and FR2439798.

[0030] Commercial products falling into this class are the commercial products RESYN® 28-2930 and RESYN® 28-1310 marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL having respectively the INCI name: VA / CROTONATES / VINYL NEO-DECANOATE COPOLYMER which is a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer and VA / CROTONATES COPOLYMER which is a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer.

[0031] We can also cite the commercial products LUVISET® CA 66 sold by the BASF company, ARISTOFLEX® A60 sold by CLARIANT company with the INCI name VA / CROTONATES COPOLYMER as well as the commercial products MEXOMERE® PW or MEXOMERE® PAM sold by CHIMEX company with the INCI name: VA / VINYL BUTYL BENZOATE / CROTONATES COPOLYMER which is a vinyl acetate / butyl-vinyl benzoate / crotonic acid terpolymer

[0032] According to a particularly preferred form, a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer with the INCI name: VA / CROTONATES / VINYL NEODECANOATE COPOLYMER will be used, such as the commercial product RESYN® 28-2930 marketed by the company AKZO NOBEL.

[0033] According to a particularly preferred form, the fixing anionic polymer(s) (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is (are) present at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Amphoteric polymer fixing (b)

[0034] The amphoteric fixing polymers (b) are polymers comprising units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer.

[0035] The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides i) more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide as well as the corresponding methacrylamides.

[0036] The acid comonomers ii) containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as the alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

[0037] The basic comonomers iii) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine-substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. More particularly, they are chosen from aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

[0038] We will use more particularly the copolymer with the INCI name OCTYLA- CRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, such as products sold under the names AMPHOMER®, AMPHOMER® LV71 or BALANCE® 47 by the company AKZO NOBEL.

[0039] According to a particularly preferred form, the fixing amphoteric polymer(s) (b) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). C2-C4 monoalcohol (c)

[0040] The composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0041] The C2-C4 mono-alcohol(s) is (are) then preferably present at a total content ranging from 20 to 95% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Plasticizer (d)

[0042] By "plasticizer" is meant an organic chemical compound, which is in the solid state or in the liquid state, at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa), and which is added to a composition comprising different types of polymerizable ingredients (monomers), to make the polymers more flexible, more flexible, and / or improve its mechanical resistance. Plasticizers are known to those skilled in the art, for example "Plasticizers", Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Technology, Helmut Reinecke, Rodrigo Navarro, Monica Pérez, https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471440264.pst245.pub215 September 2011.

[0043] The plasticizing agents within the meaning of the invention preferably have a molecular weight of between 100 and 1000 g / mol, particularly between 200 and 700, preferably between 250 and 500.

[0044] The agents are furthermore organic compounds consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and silicon atoms, in particular chosen from oxygen and silicon atoms, preferably at least 3 heteroatoms, even more preferably between 4 and 10 heteroatoms, and which may have one or more aryl groups such as benzyl. In particular they comprise one or more groups chosen from esters, phthalate, benzoate, sulfonate, citrate, and siloxane,

[0045] Preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates and siloxanes and their mixtures.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II) below: [Chem 1] R”-0-C(0)-L-[C(0)-0 (I) in which: - Rh, and R', identical or different, represent a (Cl-C20)alkyl group, aryl such as phenyl, aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl such as n-butyl; - n is 1, 2 or 3, preferably 2; and - L represents a (1) C1-C10, di, tri or tetravalent alkyl group, preferably (C2-C8)trivalent alkyl, said di, tri or tetravalent alkyl possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, (2) di or trivalent cycloalkyl, or 3) di, tri or tetravalent aryl, preferably di or trivalent phenyl, preferably L represents a group (1) [Chem 2] in which: - Ri, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Cl-ClO)alkyl group, aryl such as phenyl, aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably aryl such as phenyl, - Rk, identical or different, preferably identical, represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy, (Cl-C6)alkyl, or (Cl-C6)alkoxy group, - L' represents a group chosen from a) divalent C2-C10 alkyl, preferably divalent (C4-C8)alkyl, which may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, and / or interrupted by one or more divalent groups -Si(Rj)(Rk)- with Rj and Rk as defined above, b) di- or trivalent cycloalkyl, c) di-, tri- or tetravalent aryl, and d) -Si(Rj)(Rk)-, preferably L' represents a group d) -Si(Rj)(Rk)-.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I'): [Chem 3] RW-C(O)-L-[C(O)^> in which: - Rh, and R', identical or different, represent a (Cl-C6)alkyl, aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl such as n-butyl; - n is 1, or 2, preferably 2; and - L represents a group a) C2-C6 alkyl, di, tri or tetravalent, preferably (C2-C8) trivalent alkyl, said alkyl possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably substituted by a hydroxy group.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (II) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II'): [Chem 4] R* OO R' ' ; If^ R kZ \pJ h KK h RR in which: - Ri, identical or different, preferably identical, represents an aryl group such as phenyl, aryl(Cl-C4)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably aryl such as phenyl, and - Rk, identical or different, preferably identical, represents a group represents (Cl-C6)alkyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl such as methyl.

[0049] Particulièrement le ou les plastifiants de l’invention sont choisis parmi : di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP), diisoheptyl phthalate, (DIHP), diheptyl phthalate (DnHP), di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), diheptylnonyl phthalate (DnHNP), di-n-octyldecylphthalate (DNODP), diheptylnonylundecylphthalate (DnHNUP), diisononyl phthalate (DINP), dinonyl phthalate (DNP), d-in-nonyl phthalate (DnNP) diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP), di-n-nonyldecylundecyl phthalate (DnNDUP), dinony-lundecyl phthalate (DnNUP), diundecyl phthalate (DUP), diisoundecyldode-cylphthalate (UDP), ditridecyl phthalate (DTDP), di(2-ethylhexyl)teraphthalate (DOTP), butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP), diheptylnonyl adipate (DnHNA), di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (DEHA), diisononyl adipate (DINA), diisodecyl adipate (DIDA), triheptylnonyl trimellitate (TnHNTM), tri(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate (TOTM), triisononyl trimellitate (TINTM), di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate (DOS), di(2-ethylhexyl) azelate (DOZ), tributyl citrate,triethyl citrate and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane. ,

[0050] Preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from tri(Cl-C6)alkylcitrates such as tributyl citrate and triethylcitrate and more particularly triethyl citrate.

[0051] Preferably, the plasticizing agent(s) according to the invention do not include any silicon atom in their structure.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) is / are present in a total amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the fixing polymers (a) and (b).

[0053] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Propellant

[0054] The aerosol device according to the invention comprises one or more propellant agent(s) (e).

[0055] The propellants (e) can be chosen from compressed gases or liquefied gases.

[0056] Examples of compressed gases include air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compressed gas is carbon dioxide.

[0057] As examples of liquefied gases, mention may be made of dimethyl ether, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethane, 1,1-difluoroethane; volatile hydrocarbons, such as in particular C3-C5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the hydrocarbons are chosen from propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, alone or as a mixture.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the propellant preferably comprises one or more liquefied gases, preferably dimethyl ether.

[0059] According to the invention, the propellant(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, better still from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises dimethyl ether, the dimethyl ether content ranging from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, better still from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Water (f)

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises (f) water. More preferably, the water content in composition (A) varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0062] The water may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0063] Water can form an aqueous phase with any type of water-soluble or miscible ingredient (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as the lower monoalcohols having 2 to 4 carbon atoms mentioned above, polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0064] The compositions (A) not containing silicone, hydrocarbon propellant and hydrofluorocarbon propellant are novel as such and constitute another subject of the invention. Aerosol device

[0065] The aerosol device comprising the composition (A) according to the present invention consists of a container containing said composition (A), and a means for spraying said composition.

[0066] The propellant(s) may be packaged together with the other components of composition (A) or separately. The contents described above are understood to include the propellant(s), whether they are packaged together or separately from the other components of composition (A).

[0067] The composition (A) according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example a single-block device, which comprises a spraying means and a container.

[0068] The spraying means generally consists of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle through which the composition of the invention is sprayed.

[0069] The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymeric material or metal, and optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish.

[0070] Composition (B) for care and / or makeup (Base Coati

[0071] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention are preferably chosen from gels, creams, milks, lotions.

[0072] Preferably, the compositions (B) according to the invention may be anhydrous formulations or aqueous formulas. They may be liquid or solid such as hot-cast products or loose or compact powders.

[0073] The term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition or even less than 1% by weight, or even free of it. of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water provided by the ingredients in the form of a mixture.

[0074] The care and / or makeup compositions (B) according to the invention may be chosen from aqueous dispersions, oily compositions, or multi-phase compositions such as emulsions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, two- or three-phase compositions. Suitable compositions (B) according to the invention may contain one or more compounds which are well known to those skilled in the art and generally present in foundations.

[0075] The compositions (B) according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as: - volatile organic solvents and / or non-volatile organic solvents; - active ingredients such as moisturizers like hydroxyethylurea, vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - ceramides; - UV filters; - coloring matters such as powdered coloring matters, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - the charges; - perfumes - the conservatives - and their mixtures.

[0076] Such compositions (B) are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment, composition (B) is a skin care product, in particular a sun product, a product for oily skin, a product for dry skin, an anti-aging product.

[0078] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (B) is a facial makeup product such as a foundation; an eyelid makeup product such as an eyeshadow; a cheek makeup product such as a blush; a lip makeup product such as lipsticks; a product for makeup of the eyelashes or eyebrows such as mascaras, eyeliners.

[0079] Obviously, a person skilled in the art will adapt the nature of the compounds and the dry extract content of the composition using his general common knowledge to prepare a composition which can be used in the context of the invention.

[0080] For high viscosity compositions (B), such as thick creams, the viscosity, measured at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 4.5 Pa.s at a shear rate of 200 s 1 and less than or equal to 50 Pa.s (using a Brookfield Rheomat RM 180® viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in order to stabilize the rotation speed and the viscosity).

[0081] For the more fluid compositions (B), the viscosity may be less than 4.5 Pa.s, for example between 1 mPa.s (or leps) and 4.5 Pa.s at a rate at a shear rate of 200 s 1 (using a Brookfield Rheomat RM 180® viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in order to stabilize the rotation speed and the viscosity). Water-in-oil emulsions

[0082] According to a particular form, the composition (B) of the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion", also called "inverse emulsion", is intended to denote any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye. Emulsifiers with HLB < 8.0

[0084] The compositions (B) according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion generally comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0, preferably non-ionic.

[0085] According to a particular form, the emulsifying surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0 is (are) present at contents ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB is less than or equal to 8.0 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0087] Examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; surfactants silicones such as dimethicone copolyols such as the one with the INCI name DL METHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE sold under the brand name X-22-6711D® by the company SHIN ETSU, the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid®" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol such as CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0088] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars. As alkylated esters of polyol, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV)®» from the company CRODA.

[0089] As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, the diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GPS ® by the company Evonik, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] According to a particular form of the invention, the emulsifying surfactant may be chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers.

[0091] By "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.

[0092] The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, those with the INCI name can be used following: Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cro s spoly mer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, et leurs mélanges.

[0094] Ils sont notamment commercialisés sous les dénominations KSG® par la société Shin Etsu "KSG-210®" (Nom INCI : Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-Cro s spoly mer "KSG-310®" Nom INCI : PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Minerai Oil ; "KSG-320®" Nom INCI : PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Iso-dodecane ; "KSG-330®" Nom INCI : PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Triethyl-hexanoin ; "KSG-340®" INCI name: Squalane and PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

[0095] They are notably marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name "Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend ®"; INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer We can also mention the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend ® by the company DOW CORNING for the compound with the INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer.

[0096] As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, the following compounds with INCI names can be used: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] They are notably sold by the company Shin Etsu under the following names “KSG-710®”; INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone “KSG-810®”; INCI name: Ore Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-820®”; INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-830®”; INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-840®”; INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer. Aqueous phase

[0098] The aqueous phase of a composition (B) according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises water and optionally one or more ingredients, soluble or miscible in said aqueous phase such as water-soluble solvents.

[0099] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" designates a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure).

[0100] The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0101] Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0102] The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80%, better still from 5% to 60% by weight and preferably from 10% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition (B).

[0103] According to a particular form, the water is present in a concentration ranging from 5 to 95% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (B). Oily phase

[0104] The oily phase of a composition (B) according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises at least one oil and optionally compounds soluble or miscible in said oily phase.

[0105] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0106] An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions (A) according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0108] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an alternative embodiment, oils of vegetable origin are preferred.

[0109] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure is less than 0.13 Pa.

[0110] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil formed from a silicon-oxygen chain -Si-O-Si-O-Si-O in which organic groups are attached to the silicon atoms.

[0112] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil comprising at least carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally in addition oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0113] The oily phase may be present in the composition (B) according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, and even more preferably from 25 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Volatile oils

[0114] The volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the compositions (A) according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes.

[0115] Mention may in particular be made of C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0116] Mention may also be made of branched C8-Ci6 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used.

[0117] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0118] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0119] As examples of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Cio ), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Cn), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0121] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0122] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0123] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3) is used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.

[0124] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly is isododecane.

[0125] As volatile silicone oils, volatile silicones may also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 5 centistokes (5 mm2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which may be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile oils

[0126] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, we can notably cite: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of hep- tanoic or octanoic acid, or wheat germ oils, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; shea butter; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ®, squalane, paraffin oils, and their mixtures, - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that RI + R2 is >10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate 2-octyl-decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate;polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters; - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures.

[0127] The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or at the ends of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring matter

[0128] According to a particular form of the invention, the composition (B) according to the invention additionally comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.

[0129] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

[0130] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition (B) and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0132] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti 2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0133] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0134] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 100 nm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0135] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0136] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0137] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter being preferably present in the phase oily composition (B) according to the invention.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0139] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0140] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium Triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0142] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0143] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0144] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0145] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP1184426B1. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0146] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0147] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0148] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0149] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0150] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or not, and their mixtures.

[0151] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well than pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0152] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is (are) present, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Charges

[0153] According to a particular form of the invention, composition (B) additionally comprises at least one filler.

[0154] By fillers, we mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0155] The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Examples include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine] powders, polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylates, polyurethane powders such as hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by the company TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), micronized wax particles, in particular Camauba microwaxes such as those sold under the name “MicroCare 350®” by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes such as those sold under the name “MicroEase 114S®” by the company MICRO POWDERS,microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Camauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names “MicroCare 300®” and “310®” by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Camauba wax and synthetic wax such as those marketed under the name “MicroCare 325®” by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names “MicroPoly 200®”, “220®”, “220L®”, and “250S®”, by the company MICRO POWDERS, and those marketed under the name “CERAPURE H5-C” by the company SHAMROCK, or polypropylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the name “MATTEWAX” by the company MICRO POWDERS; lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expancel® (Nobel Industrie),acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders notably described in patent EP 293795; Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The fillers may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.8 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0157] Method for fixing a care and / or makeup product of composition (B)

[0158] The present invention also relates to a method for fixing a product of care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as skin, comprising the following steps: a) application to the surface of the keratin material of a first layer (“Base-Coat”) consisting of a care and / or makeup composition (B); b) application to the first layer thus formed, a second fixing layer (“Top Coat”), consisting of composition (A) as defined previously, by spraying using the aerosol device containing it.

[0159] The pause time of the care and / or makeup composition (B) will vary according to its galenic form.

[0160] The drying time of the composition (A) Top Coat will generally be a few seconds.

[0161] Preferably, the composition (A) packaged in an aerosol device will be sprayed at a distance ranging from 10 to 15 cm from the area of keratin material to be treated.

[0162] It is understood that in the context of the present invention the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0164] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present invention.

[0165] Examples (Al). (Aa). (Ab). (Ac). (Ad). (Ae) and (B)

[0166] The following fixing Top Coat compositions were prepared

[0167] [Tables 1] ingredients W (invention Coir Ab] :A; comparative Camp :] (Ad] 3ra® Comparative (Ae) Comparative AfWŒETHYL qs 3$ qs qs qs PROPANOL neutralizes neuîr atisaflon swntraii sation neufraiisata Reiiir&tisatæn FRAGRANCE 0.2 12 £y 1 &.2: 12 ; ALCOHOL CEMAT. ISO qs > lOD qsp :se qspTOO qsp ïoo WATER 8 S 6 S: 6 OCTYL4CRYLAMID&' ACRYLATES; BLHYLÂMiNGETHYL METHACRYLATE CQPOLYMER fAMPHOMER®LY7î - AKZD NOBEL; OA in material aeLve ..................... 9F3 enptatsfee-■ 0.6 in rrsiiéœ aciive. VAÆRQTOMATESA4NYL NEODECANOATE:> ers "active GOPOLYfÆR {RESiNE 28-2fi3G® -AKEO NOBEL' t< in material 6, active material 6 ACRYlATES / T-BUTYLACRYLAMiOE GOWLYMER (ULTRAHOLD STRWG® -BASF; - - - :TP.ÎETHYL GHR^TE 8.66 C C.66 DiMETHYL ETHER 40 AS 4£ 40 40

[0168]

[0169] Each of these compositions was introduced into an aerosol device comprising an aluminum container, a COSTER® valve (Internal nozzle: 0.4 / Internal restriction: 2.5), with a 4mm stem, a BUTYL® internal seal and a MILANO © diffuser with a V06.235 nozzle. The following Base Coat (B) foundation composition was prepared:

[0170] [Tables2] Preparation of composition (B)

[0171] The components of phase al were weighed and the mixture was stirred at 55°C to obtain a homogeneous phase, then cooled to 30°C. Then the components of phase a2 were weighed and introduced into phase al

[0172] The aqueous phase b was emulsified in phase a with stirring for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm.

[0173] To prepare phase c, the pigments and pearlescent agents were ground in an air jet mill with 11.1% of their weight in synthetic fluorphlogopite. Then c was introduced into emulsion a + b with stirring for 10 minutes at 1500 rpm.

[0174] In vitro hold test of the product obtained after application of the base coat foundation (B) and the fixing composition (A) top coat aerosol

[0175] The hold of the makeup was evaluated on a Supplale® support and Martindale® heating plate after application of the Base Coat foundation (B) and spraying of each of the Top Coat aerosol fixing compositions (Al), (Ab), (Ac), (Ad) and (Ae). MATERIALS USED

[0176] Substrates - White Supplale® strip 150cmx25cm (Supplier: Soudotique); - White Wypall® round, 38mm diameter (Supplier: PLG-KIMBERLY CLARK).

[0177] Devices - Eppendorf® electronic pipette; - Heating tray - Martindale® - IMEC® hyperspectral HSI camera connected to a computer - HIROX® camera connected to a computer

[0178] Preparation of each product sample obtained by application of the base coat foundation fB) and each top coat aerosol fixing composition fAl). fAb). fAc). fAd) and f Ae)

[0179] The heating plate was turned on at 32°C.

[0180] The area for applying the foundation deposit (8cm x 2.5cm corresponding to a deposit surface of 20cm2) was marked in the center of the white Supplale® strip with a pencil.

[0181] The Eppendorf® pipette was programmed for 50pL samples

[0182] Each foundation sample (B) was taken using the pipette and deposited 50ql on one side of the application area (8cm x 2.5cm)

[0183] Each foundation sample (B) was applied to a strip of Supplale® with a single finger on the application area, making 10 passes from left to right, then 10 additional passes from right to left, ensuring even distribution over the entire application area.

[0184] The deposit of each sample was left to dry for 3 hours on the heating plate at 32°C.

[0185] Each strip of Supplale® covered by the Base Coat foundation (B) was suspended vertically and the aerosol containing one of the Top Coat fixing aerosol compositions (Al), (Ab), (Ac), (Ad), (Ae) was applied at a distance of 20 cm in 3 back and forth movements from bottom to top. Then, it was left to dry for 30 minutes.

[0186] For each product thus obtained, the variation in the spectral angle AS and the variation in the % transfer were measured on an average of two tests.

[0187] The in vitro hold and non-transfer on Supplale® of the foundation (B) covered by each of the aerosol fixing compositions (A) was given by the graphical representation of the variation of the spectral angle AS as a function of the variation of the % transfer. The lower the variation of the spectral angle AS, the stronger the in vitro "hold". The lower the variation of % transfer, the better the non-transfer effect.

[0188] The results obtained are shown in the following table:

[0189] [Tables3] In vitro performance (Ai; invention (AbJ Comparative (Ac) Comparative (Ad) Comparative (Aei Comparative variation of the spectral angle AS |||l^l / l 20 / Üfï 1B / variation of the % of transfer illiiiili 10 / GQQ2 10 / û.

[0190] It was observed that the fixing composition (Al) Top Coat of the invention comprising a total quantity of active polymer material equal to 6.6% by weight, namely the combination of the anionic copolymer of crotonic acid VA / CROTONATES / VINYLDECANOATE COPOLYMER (6%) and the amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (0.6%) and a plasticizing agent TRIETHYL CITRATE led, after spraying on the Base Coat layer of foundation (B), to better hold compared to - to comparative example (Ab) comprising 6.6% by weight of anionic crotonic acid copolymer VA / CROTONATES / VINYLDECANOATE COPOLYMER alone - to comparative example (Ac) comprising 6.6% by weight of amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER alone; - to the comparative example (Ad) of identical composition but not containing a water-insoluble plasticizing agent; - to comparative example (Ae) comprising 6% by weight of another anionic polymer fixing ACRYLATES / t-BUTYLACRYLAMIDE COPOLYMER and 0.6% by weight amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.

[0191] It was observed that the fixing Top Coat composition (Al) of the invention led, after spraying on the Base Coat layer of foundation (B), to a better non-transfer effect compared to the compositions outside the invention (Ab) and (Ad).

[0192] II / Sensory tests on the films formed by the aerosol fixing compositions

[0193] For each of the Top Coat aerosol fixing compositions (Al), (Ac) and (Ae), 8 g of the product to be tested was placed in a petri dish with Teflon and left to dry for 2 days in a controlled atmosphere (24 hours at 20% humidity).

[0194] Criteria of flexibility, elasticity and friability of the film obtained

[0195] The performance in terms of flexibility, elasticity and friability of the film formed by each of the Top Coat fixing compositions (Al), (Ac) and (Ae) were evaluated blindly by 13 experts. 1. Flexibility

[0196] Gesture: each of the experts folded the film between their fingers and rated its flexibility from 0 to 5 with 5: very flexible and 0: rigid.

[0197] [Tables4] Flexibility iAIJ invention (Ac[ outside the invention comprising the amphoteric fixing polymer OCTYLACRYLAMiDE' ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER iAe) outside the invention comprising another anionic fixing polymer ACRYLATES / t- BUTYLACRYLAMiDE COPOLYMER Average 4.15 1.62 Standard deviation 0.90 1.13 0.87 1. Elasticity / Elastic deformation

[0198] Gesture: each of the experts pulled on the film and noted its return to the initial position on a scale of 0 to 5 with 5: very deformable and 0: not deformable.

[0199] [Tables5] Elasticity A invention (Ac) excluding invention (Ae) excluding invention Average 3.69 0.92 iOi Standard deviation 1131 1.19 1.32 1. Friability

[0200] Each of the experts observed whether the film crumbled easily or not by rating it on a scale of 0 to 5 with 5: very crumbly and 0: not crumbly.

[0201] [Tableauxô] Friability (Al) invention (Ac) excluding invention Average 0.06 2.85 Standard deviation 0.28 1.68

[0202] It was observed that the fixing composition (Al) Top Coat of the invention comprising a total quantity of active polymer material equal to 6.6% by weight, namely the combination of the anionic copolymer of crotonic acid VA / CROTONATES / VINYLDECANOATE COPOLYMER (6%) and the amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (0.6%) and a plasticizing agent TRIETHYL CITRATE produced a film having better elasticity and flexibility properties compared to - example (Ac) outside the invention comprising 6.6% by weight of amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER alone; - in example (Ae) comprising 6% by weight of another anionic polymer fixing ACRYLATES / t-BUTYLACRYLAMIDE COPOLYMER and 0.6% by weight of amphoteric polymer OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.

[0203] It was also observed that the fixing Top Coat composition (Al) of the invention produced a non-friable film unlike the composition outside the invention (Ac).

Claims

Claims

1. Method for fixing a care and / or makeup product for keratin materials such as the skin, comprising at least the following steps: 1) application to the surface of the keratin material of a first layer consisting of a care and / or makeup composition (B); 2) application to the first layer thus formed of a second fixing layer by spraying with an aerosol device containing a composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) at least one fixing anionic polymer of the crotonic acid copolymer type; and (b) at least one fixing amphoteric polymer chosen from polymers comprising units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer;and (c) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol; and (d) at least one plasticizer and (e) at least one propellant.;

2. Process according to claim 1, where in composition (A), the fixing anionic polymer(s) (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is (are) chosen from those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or crosslinked, or another vinyl, allylic or methallyl ester monomer of an α- or [3-cyclic] carboxylic acid.

3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in composition (A), the anionic fixing polymer (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is - a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer with INCI name: VA / CROTONATES / VINYL NEODECANOATE COPOLYMER; - a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer with INCI name: VA / CROTONATES; or - a vinyl acetate / butylvinyl benzoate / crotonic acid terpolymer with INCI name: VA / VINYL BUTYL BENZOATE / CROTONATES COPOLYMER, and more particularly a vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer with INCI name: VA / CROTONATES / VINYL NEODECANOATE COPOLYMER

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in the composition (A), the fixing anionic polymer(s) (a) of the crotonic acid copolymer type is (are) present at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, where in composition (A), the amphoteric fixing polymer (b) is the terpolymer with INCI name: OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, where in the composition (A), the fixing amphoteric polymer(s) (b) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in composition (A), the C2-C4 monoalcohol (c) is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in composition (A), the C2-C4 mono-alcohol(s) (c) is (are) present at a total content ranging from 20 to 95% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, where in composition (A), the plasticizer(s) (d) is (are) chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates and siloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in composition (A), the plasticizer(s) (d) is (are) chosen from tri(Cl-C6)alkylcitrates such as tributyl citrate and triethylcitrate and more particularly triethyl citrate.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in the composition (A), the plasticizer(s) (d) is / are present in a total amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the fixing polymers (a) and (b).

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where in the composition (A), the plasticizer(s) (d) is / are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

13. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the propellant (e) is dimethyl ether.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where the propellant(s) (e) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 20 to 70% by weight, preferably from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, better still from 35 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, where the composition (A) additionally comprises (f) water, preferably at a content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (B) comprises at least one additive chosen from - volatile organic solvents and / or non-volatile organic solvents; - active ingredients such as moisturizers, vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - ceramides - UV filters; - coloring materials such as powdery coloring materials, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - fillers; - perfumes - preservatives - and their mixtures.

17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is a skin care product, in particular a sun product, a product for oily skin, a product for dry skin or an anti-aging product.

18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (B) is a facial makeup product such as a foundation; an eyelid makeup product such as an eyeshadow; a cheek makeup product such as a blush; a lip makeup product such as a lipstick; an eyelash or eyebrow makeup product such as a mascara or an eyeliner.

19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase.

20. Method according to claim 19, wherein the composition (B) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises one or more emulsifying surfactants, preferably non-ionic, with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

0.

21. Process according to claim 20, where the emulsifying surfactant(s) with HLB less than or equal to 8.0 is (are) present at contents ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

22. A separately packaged two-component cosmetic set or kit comprising 1) the aerosol device containing the composition (A) as defined in the method according to any one of claims 1 to 15 and 2) the composition (B) as defined in the method according to any one of claims 1, 16 to 21.

23. Composition (A) as defined in the process according to any one of claims 1 to 15 not containing silicone, hydrocarbon propellant and hydrofluorocarbon agent.