skin care process
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-10-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-17
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for skin care. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a method of skin treatment, comprising the application of a composition disclosed in the present invention, which provides an enhanced feeling of transformation and good stability, a method of preparing a cosmetic product comprising a composition as disclosed in the present invention, as well as non-therapeutic uses of the composition according to the present invention, in particular for treating the skin. CONTEXT
[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms, and ultraviolet damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and sun exposure.
[0003] The sensation of transformation together with stability are sought as one of the most desirable properties in the cosmetics / personal care industry.
[0004] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0005] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.
[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] As such, consumers want new and improved compositions that are more durable and can provide personal care / makeup products with an improved transformative feel and good stability. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY
[0008] The inventors have discovered a skin treatment method comprising the application of a composition to the skin, wherein the composition comprising A combination of (a) first polysaccharides with (b) second polysaccharides as described herein can not only maintain good stability, but also enhance the sensation of transformation.
[0009] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the present invention to prepare a cosmetic product for skin treatment.
[0010] The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of the composition according to the present invention for skin treatment. This use may manifest itself as a skin treatment method, comprising the application of the composition to the skin.
[0011] Optionally, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a liquid emulsion, for example, water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion, water-in-oil-in-water (O / W / O) emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, further optionally comprising an acceptable or similar active agent.
[0012] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0013] Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising one" shall, unless otherwise stated, be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one".
[0014] Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with "comprising" or similar should be understood as encompassing a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting substantially of" and a preferred embodiment defined with "consisting of".
[0015] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more", including one, two, where applicable, three and the like.
[0016] The term "approximately" when referring to a value specifically means that a measurement can be rounded to the value using a standard convention for rounding figures. For example, "approximately 1.5" is between 1.45 and 1.54. All values stated herein may be modified by the term "approximately" if the above meaning is desired, or may be quoted without the term, whether or not the term "approximately" is specifically defined (or absent) in conjunction with any particular value in the specification.
[0017] All ranges and values disclosed here are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a subrange, etc.
[0018] As used here, the term "skin" refers to all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the "skin" according to the present invention is the face, or the neck, in particular the face.
[0019] As used here, the term "ionizable group" means any group which, either by its intrinsic chemical nature or depending on the environment and / or the pH of the environment in which it is present, can be in ionic form.
[0020] By "sensation of transformation" is meant the following phenomenon: the product (for example, in the form of a gel or an emulsion), which may even be thick, is transformed into a fluid or even into water upon application to the skin, as if it were on the skin. During this transformation, an aqueous film is visible (visible water droplets). Process
[0021] An object of the present invention is to provide a skin treatment method, comprising applying to the skin a composition according to the present invention, so as to provide a sensation of transformation as disclosed in the present invention.
[0022] First polysaccharides
[0023] The composition used in the present invention comprises at least one first polysaccharide.
[0024] The first polysaccharide is a polysaccharide, in which its monomer has both a main chain and a side chain and has at least one ionic group or at least one ionizable group in the main chain, the first polysaccharides have the following formula (I):
[0025] (I)
[0026] in which • R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or • M belongs to an ionic group or an ionizable group, represents of preferably a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; preferably, M represents a counterion selected from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine; • n represents at least 200, preferably at least 1000, in particular at least 3000, or less than 20,000, in particular less than 10,000, or from 500 to 10,000, in particular from 1000 to 7000.
[0027] Preferably, the first polysaccharides are chosen from the following polysaccharides: diutan gum, welane gum, and mixtures thereof; preferably, diutan gum.
[0028] Preferably, the first polysaccharides are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.02% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] Second polysaccharides
[0030] The composition used in the present invention comprises a second polysaccharide, in which the monomer has a main chain and no side chain and has at least one ionic group or at least one ionizable group in the main chain, the second polysaccharides being selected from the following or mixtures thereof: i. a polysaccharide having the following formula (II):
[0031] (II)
[0032] in which • M' belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; preferably, M represents a counterion chosen from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine; • represents at least 200, preferably at least 250, in particular at least 1000, or less than 10,000, in particular less than 8000, or from 200 to 7000, in particular from 220 to 6000, notably from 250 to 5000; i. a polysaccharide selected from the following substances: carrageenan, gelatin, chitosan such as hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, alginates such as sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, pectin, sclerotium gum, or derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] Preferably, the second polysaccharides are chosen from the following substances: carrageenan, gellan gum, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof; preferably gellan gum.
[0034] Gellan gum is a linear anionic heteropolysaccharide based on oligoside motifs composed of four saccharides (tetrasaccharides). D-glucose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid in a 2:1:1 ratio are present in gellan gum as monomeric components. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.
[0035] Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked at positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxyl groups esterified with a methanol group. Approximately 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain at positions 1 and 2. The α-galacturonic acid molecules bear carboxyl groups. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions when they are in the COO⁻ form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules. In nature, a certain proportion of carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group.The natural degree of esterification of a pectin can range from 70% (apple, lemon) to 10% (strawberry), depending on the source. By using pectins with a high degree of esterification, it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH3 groups to obtain weakly esterified pectins. Depending on the proportion of methylated and unmethylated monomers, the chain is therefore more or less acidic. HM (high methoxy) pectins are thus defined as having a degree of esterification greater than 50%, and LM (low methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification less than 50%. In the case of amidated pectins, the -OCH3 group is substituted by an -NH2 group. Pectins are notably sold by Cargill under the name Unipectine™, by CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.
[0036] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae, and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide motifs, are composed of two D-galactopyranose motifs linked alternately by α(1,3) and [3(1,4)] bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20 to 50%), and the αD-galactopyranosyl residues may be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and Depending on the position of the sulfate ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenan are distinguished: kappa-carrageenan, which has one sulfate ester group; iota-carrageenan, which has two sulfate ester groups; and lambda-carrageenan, which has three sulfate ester groups. Carrageenan is composed primarily of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine, and / or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate esters. Carrageenan is sold, notably, by SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel®, and Genuvisco®.
[0037] Chitosan is a linear polysaccharide composed of randomly distributed [3-(1→4)] D-glucosamine (deacetylated unit) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated unit). It is prepared by treating the chitinous shells of shrimp and other crustaceans with an alkaline substance, such as sodium hydroxide.
[0038] Preferably, the second polysaccharides are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.02% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] Preferably, the weight ratio of the first polysaccharides to the second polysaccharides is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, even from about 2:1 to about 1:2, or is even about 1:1, in particular is from about 1:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:4, or even from about 1:2 to about 1:3.
[0040] Salts
[0041] Furthermore, the present composition used in the present invention comprising a first polysaccharide and a second polysaccharide may further comprise a salt, for example a salt obtained by an acid and / or a base.
[0042] For example, the acid may be chosen from citric acid, maleic acid, acetic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid and the like, and mixtures thereof; the bases such as sodium and calcium hydroxide, sodium and calcium phosphate, such as monosodium phosphate or disodium phosphate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide, triethylamine potassium hydroxide and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Advantageously, the present composition used in the present invention, comprising a first polysaccharide and a second polysaccharide, further comprises the salt component; the present composition has a sensation of transformation even improved.
[0044] Preferably, the salt is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% by weight to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 2% by weight to about 12% by weight, or from about 4% by weight to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] Oily phase
[0046] The composition used in the present invention may include an oily phase.
[0047] The oily phase of the composition used in the present invention may comprise fatty substances of any kind and appropriate levels which are known to those skilled in the art.
[0048] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight).
[0049] The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.
[0050] Fatty substances include liquid fatty substances (oils) and non-liquid fatty substances such as solid or gaseous fatty substances.
[0051] Here, oils refer to fatty substances (i) having a melting point less than or equal to 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 20 °C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). In other words, these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure and are not in a solid or gaseous state.
[0052] The oils may be selected from mineral oils, vegetable or synthetic oils, and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. For example, vegetable oils may be selected from jojoba oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, safflower oil, or grapeseed oil; mineral oils may be selected from liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated isoparaffins, or isohexadecane; synthetic oils may be selected from paream, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl octanoate, polyisobutylene, ethylhexyl palmitate, or alkyl benzoate; silicone oils, including volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes. (PDMS), cyclodimethylsiloxanes or cyclomethicones, as well as mixtures of these oils.
[0053] The non-liquid fatty substances may be selected from sorbitan fatty esters, fatty acid esters such as stearate esters, behenate esters, arachidate esters, palmitate esters, fatty acid esters of a sugar and mixtures thereof. In other cases, non-liquid fatty substances may be selected from purcelline oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, dii-sopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters and esters of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0055] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one fatty substance selected from diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Aqueous phase
[0057] Preferably, the composition used in the present invention comprises an aqueous phase of any kind and appropriate contents which are known to a person skilled in the art.
[0058] The expression "aqueous phase" here refers to everything that constitutes the dispersed phase, namely: water, water-miscible organic solvents and water-soluble or water-dispersible additives.
[0059] Water-miscible organic solvents that may be mentioned include, for example, linear or branched monoalcohols containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols containing 4 to 80 ethylene oxides; and polyols, for example glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol and butylene glycol.
[0060] Water-soluble additives that may be mentioned, for example, include mono-, di- or trivalent mineral salts; water-soluble UV-protective agents; and sugars such as glucose, sucrose, trehalose, sorbitol, lactose, fructose, xylose or maltose.
[0061] More preferably, the present skin treatment method comprises applying a composition according to the present invention to the skin so as to provide a transformative sensation as disclosed herein
[0062]
[0063]
[0064]
[0065]
[0066]
[0067] invention, wherein the composition comprises the following elements, relative to the total weight of the composition, (a) at least 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one first polysaccharide selected from diutan gum, welane gum and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight of at least a second polysaccharide selected from carrageenan, gellan gum, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof. Preparation process The present invention also relates to providing a method for preparing a composition according to the present invention, comprising the following steps: 1. providing a first polysaccharide, having the following formula (I): in which • R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or • M belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; preferably, M represents a counterion selected from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine. • n represents at least 200, preferably at least 1000, in particular at least 3000, or less than 20,000, in particular less than 10,000, or from 500 to 10,000, in particular from 1000 to 7000; and 1. Supply of a second polysaccharide selected from the following or mixtures thereof: i. a polysaccharide having the following formula (II): (II) in which • M' belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; preferably, M represents a counterion chosen from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine; • represents at least 200, preferably at least 250, in particular at least 1000, or less than 10,000, in particular less than 8000, or from 200 to 7000, in particular from 220 to 6000, notably from 250 to 5000; i. a polysaccharide selected from the following substances: carrageenan, gelatin, chitosan such as hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, alginates such as sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, pectin, sclerotium gum, or derivatives thereof; 1. Optionally, supply of additives, such as a salt, for example, comprising one or more acids and one or more bases; 2. Mixing of the first polysaccharides, the second polysaccharides and optionally additives at 50-90 °C, then 3. cooling, such as to room temperature, so as to form a mixture of these.
[0068] Preferably, the first polysaccharide is a diutan gum.
[0069] Preferably, the first polysaccharides are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.02% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Preferably, the second polysaccharide is a gellan gum.
[0071] Preferably, the second polysaccharides are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.02% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.05% by weight to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] Preferably, the first polysaccharide is a diutan gum and the second polysaccharide is a gellan gum.
[0073] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the first polysaccharides to the second polysaccharides ranges from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, even from about 2:1 to about 1:2, or is even about 1:1, in particular ranges from about 1:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:4, or even from about 1:2 to about 1:3.
[0074] Preferably, the composition further comprises a salt, for example a salt obtained by an acid and / or a base. Preferably, the acid, such as lactic acid, is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% by weight to about 8% by weight, or in particular from about 2% by weight to about 7% by weight, or even from about 3% by weight to about 6% by weight, or even from about 4% by weight to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the base, such as NaOH, is present in an amount ranging from about 0.25% by weight to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 8% by weight, or particularly from about 1% by weight to about 6% by weight, or even from about 1.5% by weight to about 5% by weight, or even from about 2% by weight to about 4% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.
[0075] Preferably, optionally, the weight ratio of the acid to the base goes from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 4:1 to about 1:4, or from about 3:1 to about 1:3, even from about 2:1 to about 1:2, or is even about 1:1, in particular goes from about 1:1 to about 5:1, preferably from about 2:1 to about 4:1, or even from about 2:1 to about 3:1. cosmetic uses
[0076] Another object of the present invention is to provide a use of a cosmetic product comprising a composition according to the present invention for treating the skin, so as to provide a sensation of transformation as disclosed in the present invention.
[0077] Preferably, a cosmetic product comprises a composition as disclosed in the present invention, and optionally other functional agents, for example, non-limited active agents, solubilizers, cosmetically acceptable carriers and the like to provide a cosmetic product including a composition having good stability and an improved transformation sensation.
[0078] More exhaustive but not exhaustive lists of useful components in the compositions disclosed herein are presented below.
[0079] According to the present invention, the composition further optionally comprises at least one active agent, which is almost any acceptable active agent in a cosmetic product, and / or any suitable emollient.
[0080] The compositions optionally include one or more solubilizers. Various solubilizers are well known in the art and may be useful for the compositions described herein. In some cases, the one or more solubilizers may be, for example, one or more cosmetically acceptable hydrotopes.
[0081] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one preservative, conventionally used for cosmetic products.
[0082] For example, preservatives can be used according to the present invention comprising methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, an amino acid-based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like.
[0083] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without however limiting its scope. EXAMPLES
[0084] The quantities / concentrations of ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below are expressed as % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition / formula. I. Preparation
[0085] 1. The raw materials used in the examples of the invention and the comparative examples.
[0086] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier DIUTAN GUM KELCO-CARE™ DIUTAN GUM LUBRIZOL GELLAN GUM KELCOGEL® CG LA CP KELCO
[0087] 2. Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4:
[0088] Compositions of the invention No. 1 to 3 and comparative compositions No. 1 to 4 were prepared as indicated in Table 2.
[0089] Preparation process: • Diutan gum (if applicable), gellan gum (if applicable), xanthan gum (if applicable), lactic acid, NaOH and water were added to a main tank and thoroughly mixed at 80 °C to obtain a mixture; • the resulting mixture was cooled to 25 °C.
[0090] [Tables2] Expl Exp2 Exp3 Cepl Cep2 Cep3 Cep4 Diutan gum 0.1 0.15 0.05 0.2 0.1 Gellan gum 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.2 0.1 Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 Lactic acid 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 NaOH 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 2.82 WATER (QS) Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100
[0091] II. Evaluation of the compositions of the invention and comparative studies 1. Rheological characterizations
[0092] The rheology was measured using a rheology measuring instrument with the Anton Paar MCR301 rheological testing machine, spindle code model: cc027.
[0093] Test model: amplitude sweep
[0094] Shear stress: 0.01-200%
[0095] Shear speed: 10 s 1
[0096] K = (G0'-G1') / y
[0097] AG = G0'-G0”
[0098] G0': the initial storage module
[0099] G0' ': the initial lost module
[0100] Gl': the storage module when the curves G' and G" begin to intersect.
[0101] y: shear stress.
[0102] Stability was determined using the centrifugal technique. Weigh 10 g of each composition, then place each composition in a centrifuge at a speed of 900 rpm for 1 hour. Next, remove each composition from the centrifuge and observe it. If there is no separation of water, the composition is evaluated as "stable," otherwise as "unstable." Here, the term "separation of water" means that the composition system is not stable; the aqueous phase is at least partially separated from the composition.
[0103] The compositions of the present invention and comparatives were evaluated and the results of the tests were presented in Table 3 as follows.
[0104] [Tables3] Expl Exp2 Exp 3 Cepl Cep2 Cep3 Cep4 Centrifugation (900 rcf, Ih) Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable: Water Separation Stable Unstable: Water Separation K 6.78 2.0 16.11 0.89 30.01 0.97 4.05 AG 22.8 10.18 42.52 5.02 198.27 2.6 4.5 Results of the trials
[0105] The K value and the AG value can be used to evaluate the sensation of transformation. The higher the values of K (K = (G0'-G1') / y) and AG (AG = G0'-G0”), the greater the improvement in the sensation of transformation and stability.
[0106] Compositions are considered acceptable if they have a K value greater than 2 and an AG value greater than 10.
[0107] All compositions of the invention are considered acceptable and have a good sense of transformation and good stability.
[0108] As for Cepl, Cepl compositions including only component (a) first polysaccharide without component (b) second polysaccharides, exhibit less good rheological characterizations, and are not considered acceptable, compared to compositions according to the present invention (for example, Examples 1-3).
[0109] As for Cep2, the Cep2 composition including only the component (b) second polysaccharides without the component (a) first polysaccharide exhibits less stability and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (for example, Examples 1-3).
[0110] As for Cep3, the Cep3 composition including component (a) first polysaccharide and a polysaccharide (which is not a second polysaccharide according to the present invention) without component (b) second polysaccharides, exhibits less good rheological characterizations, and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (for example, Examples 1-3).
[0111] As for Cep4, the Cep4 composition including component (b) second polysaccharides and a polysaccharide (which is not a first polysaccharide according to the present invention) without component (b) first polysaccharides, exhibits less good rheological characterizations and less good stability, and is not considered acceptable, compared to the compositions according to the present invention (for example, Examples 1-3).
[0112] This means that the combination of the present first polysaccharides and the second polysaccharides disclosed in the present invention has shown synergistic effects, having both improved stability (e.g., after centrifugation, there is no separation) and an improved transformation sensation (having both higher K and AG values). III. Conclusion
[0113] The combination of the first polysaccharides present and the second polysaccharides disclosed in the present invention is superior in terms of beneficial properties, for example, improved stability and transformation sensitivity, compared to the comparative one. Furthermore, the compositions of the present inventions are more durable.
[0114] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a subrange, etc.
Claims
1. Claims A method of treating skin comprising applying a composition to the skin, wherein the composition comprises: (a) a first polysaccharide, wherein the first polysaccharide has the following formula (I): (I) in which - R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or - M belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably M represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; - n represents at least 200; and (b) a second polysaccharide selected from the following or mixtures thereof: (i) a polysaccharide having the following formula (II):
2.
3.
4.
5.
6. in which - M' belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably M represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; - n' represents at least 200; (ii) a polysaccharide selected from the following substances: carrageenan, gelatin, chitosan such as hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, alginates such as sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, pectin, sclerotium gum, or derivatives thereof. The method of claim 1, wherein M and M', identical or different, independently represent a counterion selected from a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, ammonium ion or a counterion derived from an organic amine. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein n represents at least 1000, in particular at least 3000, or less than 20,000, in particular less than 10,000, or from 500 to 10,000, in particular from 1000 to 7000. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein n' represents at least 250, in particular at least 1000, or less than 10,000, in particular less than 8000, or from 200 to 7000, in particular from 220 to 6000, in particular from 250 to 5000. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first polysaccharides are selected from the following polysaccharides: diutan gum, welan gum, and mixtures thereof, preferably diutan gum. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second polysaccharides are selected from the following substances: carrageenan, gellan gum, pectin, chitosan and mixtures thereof, preferably gellan gum.
7.
8.
9. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the first polysaccharide is diutan gum and the second polysaccharide is gellan gum. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises a salt, for example a salt obtained with an acid and / or a base. A process for preparing a cosmetic product comprising a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps: (1) providing a first polysaccharide, having the following formula (I): (I) in which - R represents a radical chosen from rhamnose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, or - M belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; - n represents at least 200; and (2) providing a second polysaccharide selected from the following or mixtures of these: (i) a polysaccharide having the following formula (II):
10. in which - M' belongs to an ionic group or to an ionizable group, preferably represents a counterion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, or a counterion derived from an inorganic ammonium or an organic amine; - n' represents at least 200; (ii) a polysaccharide selected from the following substances: carrageenan, gelatin, chitosan such as hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, alginates such as sodium alginate, potassium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, pectin, sclerotium gum, or derivatives thereof; (3) optionally, providing additives, such as a salt, for example, comprising one or more acids and one or more bases; (4) mixing the first polysaccharides, the second polysaccharides and optionally additives at 50-90°C, then (5) cooling, such as at room temperature, so as to form the mixture thereof. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic product comprising a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7 or of a cosmetic product obtained by the process as claimed in claim 9 for the treatment of the skin.