Water-soluble extract of defatted Moringa oleifera seeds and its cosmetic uses

Abstract

Cosmetic use of delipidated seed extracts of Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of delipidated Moringa oleifera seeds and its cosmetic uses

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroethanolic extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which simultaneously combats the aging of the skin and hair, allows its detoxification and purification, and combats oxidative stress and free radicals.to reduce localized fat deposits and to restore and protect the skin barrier function by influencing intercellular cohesion and the microbiota via its microbiome. All of this results in better quality and more beautiful skin and hair through topical application.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to achieve better results, in line with the increasingly important trend in cosmetics known as skinimalism, even frugality, positive contributions to the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] In the context of the invention, a multifunctional active ingredient or multifunctional extract will be called an active ingredient or extract having several different and complementary efficacies at several levels of the skin structure in order to make it possible to produce a cosmetic composition with the least amount of extract and active ingredient possible.

[0004] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its surface stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions. where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each of the epidermal cells, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and intricate metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the physiological expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0005] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0006] Among all the plants studied, Moringa oleifera, from the Moringaceae family, has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil obtained from its seeds. Indeed, Moringa oleifera oil is used in food but also for a wide variety of internal and external treatments, such as for treating acne and eczema. It has antimicrobial properties and is used in cosmetics to treat skin and hair.

[0007] Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family is a fast-growing tree that produces fruits in the form of long capsules arranged in diffuse or drooping clusters containing about thirty oily seeds and 3 wings each.

[0008] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Moringa oleifera for therapeutic as well as cosmetic purposes.

[0009] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition for topical use.

[0010] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0011] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0012] It was while studying the properties of various water-soluble extracts of Moringa oleifera seed, after delipidation obtained following one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes in normal human keratinocytes that the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these Moringa oleifera extracts have numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0013] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as seeds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0014] The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera&c of the Moringaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0015] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a multifunctional and water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleiferae of the Moringaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0016] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition made from a defatted seed extract of African Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin in order to combat skin and hair aging, detoxify and purify the skin, fight oxidative stress and free radicals, reduce localized fat deposits, and restore and protect the skin barrier function by acting on intercellular cohesion and the microbiota via its microbiome. All of this results in improved and more beautiful skin and hair through topical application.

[0017] The invention also relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition made from an extract of delipidated seeds of African Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to purify both the skin and the water contained in the aqueous phase of cosmetic formulations and compositions containing it.

[0018] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors, and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of defatted seeds of Moringa oleifera of the family Moringaceae are used to advantageously utilize a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously combats skin and hair aging, promotes detoxification, fights oxidative stress, reduces localized fat deposits, and restores and protects the skin barrier function by influencing intercellular cohesion and the microbiota through its microbiome. All of this results in improved and more beautiful skin and hair through topical application.

[0019] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous, glycerinated, or hydroethanolic extracts of defatted Moringa oleifera seeds on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (single strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction).Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow, in a single experiment, an estimate of the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0020] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0021] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Moringa oleifera seeds from the Moringaceae family is made from seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds.

[0022] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0023] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0024] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of defatted seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family was made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in the same cosmetically acceptable solvents prior to use.

[0025] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition and in which this extract allows the aqueous phase to be kept pure.

[0026] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0027] The effects of different plant extracts on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) were investigated. More specifically, a full transcriptome analysis, i.e., the analysis of all genes expressed at a given time, was performed using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0028] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Moringa oleiferae of the Moringaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0029] Then, by selecting the most relevant gene or genes, this method allows for the selection of the optimal protocol(s) to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family, the Glutathione peroxidase 2 (GPX2) gene was used to determine that delipidated seeds, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, resulted in an increase in expression of over 155% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this GPX2 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 227.08, while in keratinocytes exposed to the selected water-soluble extract of Moringa oleifera, the signal intensity was 579.44, representing a 2.55-fold stimulation of gene expression under the experimental conditions, known as a fold change.

[0030] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0031] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of defatted seeds of Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family, obtained by dehulling the pod and then drying. The seeds, thus separated from their pods, are then dried and defatted by one or more cold pressings, followed by oven drying for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution, or a water / glycerol mixture, or by maceration in glycerol alone, and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent, or dried again, or freeze-dried, or even zeodrated.When applied topically to healthy skin, this product combats skin and hair aging, promotes detoxification and purification, fights oxidative stress and free radicals, reduces localized fat deposits, and restores and protects the skin barrier function by influencing intercellular cohesion and the microbiota via its microbiome. All of this results in healthier, more beautiful skin and hair through topical application.

[0032] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated and then dried seeds.

[0033] This allows for the production of a water-soluble extract of defatted Moringa oleifera seeds from the Moringaceae family, characterized in that it is intended for application to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the fight against skin and hair aging, its detoxification and purification, the fight against oxidative stress and free radicals, the reduction of localized fat deposits, and the restoration of the skin barrier function by acting on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome. All of this results in better quality and more beautiful skin and hair.

[0034] Or more precisely, a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted seeds of Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family for its use in the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by skin aging, a decrease in its detoxification and purification, a decrease in its ability to fight oxidative stress and free radicals, an increase in localized fat deposits, a decrease in its barrier effect, its intercellular cohesion and its microbiota via its microbiome, all linked to an under-expression of Glutathione peroxidase 2 (GPX2), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) of Glutamate-cysteine ​​ligase (GCLC) and keratin 1 (KRT1) or, on the contrary, in the context of the overexpression of Metalloproteinases 1,3 and 10 (MMP 1,3,10) or of proteinase Adam 19 (ADAM 19).

[0035] Indeed: Glutathione peroxidase 2 (GPX2) has a decreasing level of expression in senescent cells or cells whose aging has been induced by H2O2 compared with young cells. Desmoglein, on the other hand, is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, predominantly expressed in the outermost layers of the epidermis. It is responsible for the adhesive properties of the desmosomes, which act like snap fasteners, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential for the skin's barrier function and cohesion. Its production is also stimulated by this hydrophilic and water-soluble extract of Moringa oleifera seeds. Glutamate-cysteine ​​ligase (GCLC) plays a role in glutathione metabolism and biosynthesis, as well as in responding to oxidative stress and free radicals, ultimately influencing aging, acting in concert with GPX2 and KRT1. Keratin 1 (KRT1), a cytokeratin and intermediate filament of the cytoskeleton, plays an important role in maintaining the skin barrier, keratinization, and epidermal cell formation. Matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMPI) is a gene encoding a structure-maintaining protein of chromosome 4 whose overexpression is detrimental to cellular and tissue function: Qncogenesis.2017 Mar; 6(3): e301. doi: 10.1038 / oncsis.2017. The Adam 19 proteinase (ADAM 19) which is overexpressed in cases of obesity and localized adipocyte overload.

[0036] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleiferae of the Moringaceae family intended for use in the treatment or prevention of skin and hair aging, situations requiring its detoxification and purification, combating oxidative stress and free radicals, reducing localized fat deposits, and restoring and protecting the skin barrier function by acting on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome optimized by analyzing gene expression at the genome level (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by hybridization on DNA microarrays.

[0037] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition for topical application to healthy skin in order to advantageously utilize a multifunctional active ingredient that both better combats skin and hair aging and allows for its detoxification. and its purification, to fight against oxidative stress and free radicals, to have an effect of reducing localized fat deposits as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function by playing on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome, all of which allows for better quality and more beautiful skin and hair.

[0038] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nanoemulsion, a pseudoemulsion, an aqueous gel, a fatty gel, a hydroalcoholic gel, a suspension, a lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0039] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera&c of the Moringaceae family, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0040] All this therefore allows the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family, for topical application on healthy skin in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which allows both to better combat the aging of the skin and hair, to allow its detoxification and purification, to fight against oxidative stress and free radicals, to have an effect on reducing localized fatty deposits as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function by acting on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome, the whole allowing to obtain better quality and aesthetically more beautiful skin and hair.

[0041] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously utilizes a multifunctional active ingredient to simultaneously combat skin and hair aging, promote detoxification and purification, fight oxidative stress and free radicals, reduce localized fat deposits, and restore and protect the skin barrier function. by playing on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome, the whole allows to obtain, by topical route, better quality and more aesthetically beautiful skin and hair including the topical administration of a cosmetic composition made from a water-soluble extract of delipidated Moringa oleiferact seeds optimized by the use of the analysis of the full genome expression of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of a prior roasting, the % of delipidated and dried seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0042] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0043] Example 1. Obtaining water-soluble extracts from delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera. Extracts of defatted seeds of Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family are made by hulling the pod followed by an initial drying. The seed, thus separated from its pod, is then dried and delipidated by one or more cold pressings, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added proteins, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or by maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated seeds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call the extracts obtained and used in the following examples EMO (for Moringa oleifera Extract).

[0044] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The assay medium consisted of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of GPX2, DSG1, MMPI, and ADAM19 obtained with this methodology and with EMO for Moringa Oleifera delipidated seed extract shows the signal intensity obtained for the control and for the EMO assay: Signal intensity for Glutathione peroxidase 2 (GPX2): - Control: 227.08 - EMO: 579.44 - Change rate: 2.55 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Desmoglein 1 (DSG1): - Control: 37.34 - EMO: 285.50 - Change rate: 7.65 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMPI): - Control: 420.32 - EMO: 178.60 - Change rate: 0.42 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for ADAM 19 proteinase (ADAM 19): - Control: 131.93 - EMO: 65.40 - Change rate: 0.50 - Regulation: DR

[0045] In the examples below, which give examples of the realization of these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EMO for Moringa Oleifera delipidated seed extract

[0046] Example 3 According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Moringa oil............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone.........................................................2.00 g EMO..................................................................................3.00 g Dextran........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 35 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 1 hour after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number, length, and width of wrinkles had significantly decreased, and 95% of users reported more hydrated skin.

[0047] Example 4 According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EMO..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.....................................................................0.867 g - Moringa oil........................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings...................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use, 25 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0048] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - EMO..................................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 35 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of users.

[0049] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol.............................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.............................................................................0.05 g - EMO..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 35 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application and softer and younger-looking for 69% of users after 4 weeks of daily use.

[0050] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protégin.........................................................................19g - Glycerin......................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil...........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - EMO..................................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative................................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp..............................................................100 g

[0051] Examples. Oil-in-water gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Moringa oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume..............................................................0.4 g - EMO..................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0052] Example 9. Glycerinated concentrate -Glycerin.......................................................................65 g - EMO..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine................................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid.............................................................1 g - Perfume..........................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a multifunctional and water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of Moringa oleifera of the family Moringaceae and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which advantageously may be that used as a solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Moringa oleifera seeds of the Moringaceae family is made from seeds previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the beans or seeds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the Moringaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said extract of delipidated seeds of Moringa oleifera of the family Moringaceae has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted seeds Moringa oleifera from the Moringaceae family represents 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that allows both better combating of skin and hair aging, detoxification and purification, combating oxidative stress and free radicals, reducing localized fat deposits and restoring and protecting the skin barrier function by acting on intercellular cohesion and on the microbiota via its microbiome, the whole resulting in better quality and more aesthetically pleasing skin and hair.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for its use in preventing the negative effects caused by skin aging, a decrease in its detoxification and purification, a decrease in its ability to combat oxidative stress and free radicals, an increase in localized fat deposits, and a decrease in its effect barrier, its intercellular cohesion and its microbiota via its microbiome, all tested by the use of the analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of cultured human keratinocytes in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of a prior roasting, the % of delipidated and dried seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.