Extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of defatted almond extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family presenting a multifunctional effect and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerinated or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated kernels of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxbnrghiidc of the Zygophyllaceae family in order to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient which both strengthens and promotes the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, and slowing down and regulating desquamation,to enhance skin elasticity on the surface, to strengthen the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, to reduce the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, to protect skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, to limit the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the skin's natural protective function against the genome and maintaining homeostasis, also allowing for the recycling of degraded skin molecules, and regulating epidermal cell senescence and the chronic skin inflammation that gradually develops with age.

[0002] It is known that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan, and even a slow cosmetics approach (ecological, healthy, intelligent, and reasonable) that takes into account the skin's real needs, advocating the use of fewer ingredients (skinimalism) to achieve better results, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin, and realistic promises. One response to this concern could be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional, and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic formulations.

[0003] Many people believe that the skin surface to which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case, and the epidermis, including its surface stratum corneum, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors, and inhibitors of inhibitors ensure a balance and a Homeostasis varies with the time of day, the seasons, and age. Each of the epidermal cells, and particularly the keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibits a complex and fine metabolism leading to cell maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most efficient extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii, both from the African Meliaceae family, have numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil. Indeed, the oil of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii, called Soump oil in Senegal, is a medicinal oil rich in properties, used for a wide variety of external treatments. It exhibits, among other things, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antimicrobial actions and is used for skin and hair.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghiiafricain for therapeutic as well as cosmetic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another object of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] In the context of the invention, a water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant, such as almonds, is understood to be the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent, such as water itself, a hydroethanolic solution, or glycerin, and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be directly formulatable to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at concentrations of approximately 0.1% to 5%, or stored in a dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol, or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0010] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their kernels, contain a significant amount of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came about to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0011] It is by studying the properties of different aqueous extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii kernels after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes, the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii had many properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional actives, since a given extract could have many complementary properties and reduce the use of many different active substances.

[0012] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0013] Therefore, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated kernels of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii Africana of the Zygophyllaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient that both strengthens and promotes the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, and slowing down and regulating desquamation,to enhance skin elasticity on the surface, to strengthen the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, to reduce the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, to protect skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, to limit the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the skin's natural protective function against the genome and maintaining homeostasis, also allowing for the recycling of degraded skin molecules, and regulating epidermal cell senescence and the chronic skin inflammation that gradually develops with age.

[0014] The applicant has indeed tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii from the Zygophyllaceae family on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes, and particularly by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed Ribonucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on Deoxyribonucleic Acid (DNA) microarrays. The principle of the DNA microarray is based on the property of denatured DNA (simple strand) to spontaneously reform its double helix when in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips thus constitute a massive approach that the inventor used because they allow, in a single experiment, an estimation of the expression of tens of thousands of genes.

[0015] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0016] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii kernels of the Zygophyllaceae family is made from kernels previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the kernels.

[0017] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0018] In the context of the invention, "from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0019] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0020] Advantageously, the composition is such that the water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] In the context of the invention, "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of delipidated extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0022] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More Specifically, a complete transcriptomic analysis (full transcriptome), that is, the set of genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 "full human transcriptome" chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0023] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, allows us to choose, based on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has shown the interest of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii among other plants thus tested.

[0024] Then, by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method makes it possible to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here, for Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii, the Paxillin protein gene (PXN) was used to determine that it was the delipidated kernels, subsequently extracted in a simple solvent, that allowed for an increase in expression of more than 60% upon contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK).The relative expression of this PXN gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 20.36, while in keratinocytes exposed to the water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghiiainsï selected, there was a signal intensity of 32.58, i.e., a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or rate of modification, under experimental conditions, of more than 1.6 times (32.58), this stimulation of PXN expression remaining, however, within a very physiological range.

[0025] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are well established.

[0026] These tests demonstrate the value of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, obtained by mechanically separating the almonds from the seeds and then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroalcoholic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or even lyophilized or even zeodrated, which has the effect, with the help of a single multifunctional extract, of strengthening and promoting the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thus improving the effect of the skin barrier, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening the surface elasticity of the skin, strengthening the mechanoreceptors of the skin as well as its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin which gradually sets in during its aging.

[0027] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated and then dried almonds.

[0028] This allows for obtaining a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii African of the Zygophyllaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening surface skin elasticity, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and skin homeostasis,This also allows for the recycling of degraded skin molecules, the regulation of epidermal cell senescence, and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually develops during aging.

[0029] Or more precisely, a water-soluble extract of defatted kernels of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family for its use in the treatment or prevention of decreased cohesion of epidermal cells, impaired skin barrier function, impaired homeostasis, impaired protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, impaired regulation of desquamation, impaired skin surface elasticity, impaired functioning of skin mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, and impaired increase in the spread of possibly damaged skin cells linked to underexpression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p 53) and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) in skin cells or in the context of overexpression of genes promoting skin problems, senescence and chronic inflammation that gradually set in during aging, such as Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5).

[0030] Here, by skin mechanoreceptor, we mean structures sensitive to mechanical deformation, such as even a light massage. Mechanoreceptors are composed of several molecules organized around praxillin, forming a so-called focal adhesion complex, and cytoskeletal components such as intracellular actin, which, through these focal adhesions, is coupled with the extracellular matrix.

[0031] Indeed, praxillin also allows for the fixation, propagation, and migration of cells, such as during epidermal differentiation, ensuring the maturation of keratinocytes into comeocytes. It is often said that without their anchors, the focal adhesions organized around praxillin, cells would slip. Praxillin also plays a role, thanks to these focal adhesion structures, in the cohesion of epidermal cells, the skin barrier effect, protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, the regulation of desquamation, and the skin's surface elasticity. Protein 53 (p53) regulates the fate of damaged cells by preventing them from propagating. Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) promotes skin cell homeostasis and protects skin stem cells, including hair cells, thus promoting their regrowth, allows firming effects without risk of fibrosis and has promelanin-like effects. Nima-related kinase 2 (NEK2), a centrosomal protein kinase, increases in cancers, and much research is being conducted to find NEK2 inhibitors: Cell Cycle. 2016; 15(7): 895-907. doi: 10.1080 / 15384101.2016.1152430. Insulin-like growth factor binding protein 5 (IGF5), on the other hand, is capable of inducing senescence (Mol Biol Cell. (2007) 18:4543-52. doi: 10.1091 / mbc.e07-03-0280). Clearly, preventing skin cells from expressing too much NEK2 and IGF5 is highly beneficial for maintaining healthy skin.

[0032] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, intended for use in the treatment or prevention of decreased cohesion between epidermal cells and the barrier effect. cutaneous, its homeostasis, protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, regulation of desquamation, surface skin elasticity, the functioning of skin mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, and the increased propagation of potentially damaged skin cells, characterized in that aqueous, hydroethanolic, or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of enhancing the expression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p53), and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) in skin cells and reducing the expression of Nima-related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor-binding protein 5 (IGF5), optimized by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by microarray hybridization. DNA.

[0033] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition for topical application on healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously strengthens and promotes the cohesion of epidermal cells, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin surface elasticity, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells and thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, and strengthening the skin's natural protective effect on the genome and homeostasis.This also allows for the recycling of degraded skin molecules, the regulation of epidermal cell senescence, and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually develops during aging.

[0034] For cosmetic use, the interest then becomes apparent in a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), a microemulsion, a twin-phase emulsion, a PIT emulsion, a nanoemulsion, a pseudoemulsion, an aqueous gel, a fatty gel, a hydroalcoholic gel, a suspension, a lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented as creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0035] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, said composition is characterized in that it is in the form of a a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0036] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening the skin's surface elasticity, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors as well as its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and skin homeostasis,This also allows for the recycling of degraded skin molecules, the regulation of epidermal cell senescence, and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually develops during aging.

[0037] A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously utilizes a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously strengthens and promotes the cohesion of epidermal cells, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin surface elasticity, reinforcing the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells and thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the skin's natural protective effect on the genome and homeostasis, and also recycling degraded skin molecules.to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually develops during aging, including the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and optimized by the use of whole genome expression analysis (full genome) of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of its properties as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the benefit or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature, of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0038] The invention also relates to the aforementioned composition, for its use in the treatment or prevention of decreased cohesion of epidermal cells, the skin barrier effect, its homeostasis, protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, regulation of desquamation, surface skin suppleness, the functioning of skin mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, increased spread of potentially damaged skin cells linked to underexpression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p 53) and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) in skin cells, or in the context of overexpression of genes promoting skin problems, senescence and chronic inflammation that gradually develop during aging,such as Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5). ,

[0039] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0040] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii kernels. Extracts of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family are made by mechanically separating the almonds from the seeds and then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then by extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or again dried or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or they can be dried, dehydrated, freeze-dried or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water acting as a solvent. We will call the extracts obtained and used in the following examples EB (for Balanites Extract).

[0041] Example 2. Tests and examples of results. The biological model: Third-pass normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25 ng / ml and EP at 25 µg plus gentamicin 25 µg. The assay medium consisted of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25 µg / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours, then in test medium for an additional 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the compounds under investigation, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate (n=3). At the end of incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell mats were rinsed with a PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, the culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNAs (aRNAs) was carried out using the "GeneChip 3'IVT Express" kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. The hybridization of labeled and fragmented RNAs on the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was carried out on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix ® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45 °C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - 2 pm resolution) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the result examples below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps validated the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data were transferred and formatted in a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and facilitate its use. The "fold change" thresholds or rate of change (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - overexpression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of "fold change" or rate of change for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. The filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of PXN and IGFBP5 thus obtained with this methodology with EB for Balanites delipidated almond extract, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the EB assay: Signal intensity for Praxilline (PXN), probe 1: - Witness: 20.36 - EB: 32.58 - Change rate: 1.60 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Praxilline (PXN), probe 2: - Witness: 36.24 - EB: 53.13 - Change rate: 1.47 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Insulin-like growth factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5): - Witness: 135.73 - EB: 56.98 - Change rate: 0.42 - Regulation: DR

[0042] In the examples below, which give examples of the realization of these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EB for the extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii.

[0043] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EB..............................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol..................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative......................................................................0.867 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin.....................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Dyes.........................................................................0.0002 After 4 weeks of use, 25 volunteers aged 20 to 70 years old saw their skin appear significantly more hydrated.

[0044] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetylphosphate............................................1.50g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid............................................................1.00 g Sterylic alcohol ethoxylate (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Ketostearyl alcohol....................................................1.80 g Preservative................................................................0.15 g Baobab oil........................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone...........................................................2.00 g EB..................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin.............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 32 volunteers, skin appeared smoother just 2 hours after each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length, and their width had significantly decreased, and 95% of the skin felt more hydrated. users.

[0045] Example 5. Oil-in-water emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil...................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative....................................................................0.3 g - EB..........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.....................................................100 g. After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 25 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly firmer for 100% of users.

[0046] Example 6. Liposome cream: - Cetyl alcohol..........................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative..............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.........................................................................0.05 g -EB..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 32 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application and firmer for 70% of users after 4 weeks of use.

[0047] Example 7. Water / Oil Emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin....................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.........................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g -EB..........................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................................0.02 g - Preservative...............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.............................................................100 g

[0048] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol..........................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil...............................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g -EB..........................................................................................0.1g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0049] Example 9. Glycerin Concentrate - Glycerin.................................................................65 g -EB..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine..........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................... 1 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp...............................................................100 g

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds by cold pressing, one to three times successively, of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle which may advantageously be that used as a solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during extraction and is selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii kernels of the Zygophyllaceae family is made from kernels previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the kernels.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 3 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the family Zygophyllaceae comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that said extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the family Zygophyllaceae has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent selected from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family representing from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / O), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, oily gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, lyophilized gel or emulsion and / or any of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and may be in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a jelly lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a hydrating serum, a wrinkle-enhancing serum, a moisturizing body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application on healthy skin with the aim of advantageously utilizing a multifunctional active ingredient that simultaneously strengthens and promotes the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin surface elasticity, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells and thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, and strengthening the skin's natural protective effect on the genome and homeostasis.allowing for the recycling of,

10. degraded skin molecules, to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging, all linked to an under-expression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p 53) and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) of skin cells or even in the context of the over-expression of genes that promote skin problems, its senescence and the chronic inflammation that gradually sets in during aging, such as Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5). A cosmetic skincare method for healthy skin that advantageously utilizes a multifunctional active ingredient to simultaneously strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells, thereby improving the skin barrier effect, preventing the effects of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, enhancing skin surface elasticity, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells and thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the skin's natural protective effect against the genome and maintaining homeostasis, and also recycling degraded skin molecules.to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually develops during aging, including the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii, tested using full-genome expression analysis of cultured human keratinocytes to determine all of its properties, as well as the optimization of its preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration stages, the benefit or not of prior roasting, the percentage of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying, and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.