UV PROTECTION COMPOSITION
A composition with specific ratios of oil, solid lipophilic UV filter, monoalcohol, and polyamide polycondensate enhances SPF and stability, addressing the limitations of existing sunscreen formulations.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreen compositions do not provide a high enough sun protection factor (SPF) and often lack stability and fluidity, which are essential for effective UV protection.
A composition comprising at least one oil, a solid lipophilic UV filter, a monoalcohol in C10_3, and a polyamide polycondensate, with specific weight ratios and concentrations to enhance SPF and maintain fluidity and stability.
The composition achieves a higher SPF value while maintaining good fluidity and stability, ensuring effective UV protection without crystallization of the solid lipophilic UV filter over time.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: UV PROTECTION COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition capable of effectively protecting against UV rays. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] In general, UV filters are used to provide protection against UV (ultraviolet) rays. Numerous sunscreen compositions designed to protect the skin against UV-A and / or UV-B rays have been proposed to date.
[0003] These sunscreen compositions often take the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, gels, or non-aqueous products that contain, at various concentrations, one or more insoluble and / or fat-soluble and / or water-soluble UV filters, organic and / or inorganic, capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation. These UV filters and their quantities are chosen according to the desired sun protection factor (SPF).
[0004] The sun protection factor (SPF) mathematically expresses the ratio between the dose of UV radiation required to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV screen agent and the dose of UV radiation required to reach the erythematogenic threshold without the UV screen agent.
[0005] To date, some prior art documents relating to sunscreen compositions comprising an SPF enhancer such as hollow particles to increase UV protection effects have been published. However, there is a need for a composition with a higher sun protection factor, which can be represented by a higher UV absorbance of the composition. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition that can have an increased FPS value and good fluidity.
[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one oil; b. at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; c. at least one monoalcohol in C10_3; and d. at least one polyamide polycondensate,
[0008] in which
[0009] The quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition is 10% in weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0010] the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0011] The (a) oil can be chosen from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
[0012] The ester oil may be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The liquid lipophilic UV filter can be chosen from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The (b) solid lipophilic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] The quantity of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The (c) monoalcohol in Ci_3 can be ethanol.
[0018] The quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition according to the present invention can range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (d) polyamide polycondensate may be a copolymer of ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer.
[0020] The quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1.5% to 7% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, of preferably a cosmetic composition with UV protection, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin with UV protection.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a use of (d) at least one poly-condensate of polyamide in a composition, comprising a. at least one oil; b. at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and c. at least one monoalcohol in C1.3,
[0025] in which
[0026] the quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0027] the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less,
[0028] in order to improve the UV protection capacity of the composition. Best embodiment of the invention
[0029] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to offer a composition that can have an increased FPS value and good fluidity.
[0030] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one oil; b. at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; c. at least one monoalcohol in C10_3; and d. at least one polyamide polycondensate,
[0031] in which
[0032] the quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in C[3] in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0033] the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0034] In the composition according to the present invention, the (d) polyamide polycondensate can act as an FPS enhancer. The FPS value of the composition according to the present invention can be higher than that of a composition that is identical to the composition according to the present invention, except that the composition does not include the (d) polyamide polycondensate. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can have an increased FPS value. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is capable of effectively protecting against UV rays.
[0035] However, an excessive amount of polyamide polycondensate(s) can have a negative effect. Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the amount of polyamide polycondensate(s) is limited so as that the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0036] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can exhibit good fluidity such as low viscosity, as well as good texture such as freshness, due to the presence of (c) monoalcohol in Ci_3 in the composition in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can also be stable so that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time.
[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is useful as a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for UV protection, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for skin protection against UV.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]
[0040] The composition according to the present invention comprises a. at least one oil; b. at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; c. at least one monoalcohol in C10_3; and d. at least one polyamide polycondensate,
[0041] in which
[0042] the quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci 3 in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0043] the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0044] (Oil)
[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0046] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination with one another. This oil or these oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.
[0047] The (a) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0048] The (a) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0049] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0051] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0052] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0053] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0054] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and alcohols in CrC22ja can also be used, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26.
[0055] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0056] Sugar esters and fatty acid diesters of C6-C3O and preferably C2-C22 fatty acids can be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides or oligosaccharides. or polysaccharides.
[0057] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0058] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the C6-C30, and preferably in the C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0059] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0060] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0061] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0062] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0063] By way of examples of preferable ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] Ester oil can be derived from an aromatic carboxylic acid such as benzoic acid, and from a monoalcohol such as a C12-C15 alkanol. Examples of such an ester oil include C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
[0065] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, trili- glyceryl nolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0066] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from among liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0068] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0069] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0070] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from: i. Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylal-kylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:
[0071] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; i. Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the Toray Silicone Company. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex
[0072] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0073] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0074] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0075] Among silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0076] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0077] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from: • Lower C6-Cl6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0078] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0079] The quantity of hydrocarbon oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] The quantity of hydrocarbon oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] The quantity of hydrocarbon oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.1% and less than 30% by weight, preferably greater than 0.5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 1% and less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] In one embodiment, the (a) oil can be chosen from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
[0083] As ester oils, those described above may be used.
[0084] It is preferable that the ester oil be chosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, Cl2-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.
[0085] The quantity of ester oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] The quantity of ester oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] The quantity of ester oil(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 45% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] The term “liquid” here means being liquid at 25 °C under 1 atm.
[0089] The term “UV” here means ultraviolet radiation and includes the UV-B region (260 to 320 nm wavelength) and the UV-A region (320 to 400 nm wavelength).
[0090] The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0091] Examples of liquid lipophilic UV filters include salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds and benzalmalonate compounds.
[0092] Examples of salicylic compounds include homosalate, marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Symrise.
[0093] Examples of cinnamate compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "PARSOL CX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by Symrise, dii-sopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate cinoxate and dimethoxycinnamate, and DEA methoxycinnamate and its salts.
[0094] Examples of [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds include octocrylene, marketed under the name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, and etocrylene, marketed under the name "UVINUL N35" by BASF.
[0095] Examples of benzalmalonate compounds include polyorganosiloxanes containing a fraction of benzalmalonate, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name "Parsol SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0096] It is preferable that the liquid lipophilic UV filter be chosen from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and their mixtures.
[0097] The quantity of the liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] The quantity of the liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if any, in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] The quantity of the liquid lipophilic UV filter(s), if any, in the com position according to the present invention can range from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] Furthermore, the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] (Solid lipophilic UV filter)
[0104] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter. Only one type of solid lipophilic UV filter may be used, but two or more different types of solid lipophilic UV filters may be used in combination.
[0105] The term “UV” here means ultraviolet radiation and includes the UV-B region (260 to 320 nm wavelength) and the UV-A region (320 to 400 nm wavelength).
[0106] The term “lipophilic” here means that a substance is soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0107] The term "solid" here means being solid at 25 °C under 1 atm.
[0108] The (b) solid lipophilic UV filter used in the present invention may include, but not limited to, triazine compounds, a dibenzoylmethane compound, phenylbenzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds and dibenzoylmethane compounds, and merocyanine compounds.
[0109] Examples of triazine compounds include ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name "UVINUL T-150" by BASF; diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 2V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine; 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine; and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, marketed under the brand name " TINOSORB S » by Ciba Geigy.
[0110] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include butylmethoxydiben-zoylmethane or avobenzone sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products.
[0111] Examples of phenylbenzotriazole compounds include drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie.
[0112] Examples of triazine compounds include bis-(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by BASF, ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, and triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups such as those described in EP0841341, in particular the 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl] propyl)amino]-s-triazine.
[0113] Examples of para-aminobenzoic acid compounds include para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name "ESCALOL 5972" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and their salts such as those sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
[0114] Examples of benzylidenecamphor compounds include 3-benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK, polyacryla-midomethyl benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX, and terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex.
[0115] Examples of phenylbenzimidazole compounds include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0116] Examples of imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene propionate dioxoimidazoline.
[0117] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include butyl methoxydiben-zoylmethane, marketed in particular under the brand name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche, and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
[0118] Examples of merocyanine compounds include octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate.
[0119] It is preferable that the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter be selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] The quantity of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Furthermore, the quantity of the(b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] The quantity of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] (Monoalcoholic in
[0124] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one Ci-3 monoalcohol. Only one type of Ci-3 monoalcohol may be used, but two or more different types of Ci-3 monoalcohols may be used in combination.
[0125] The (c) monoalcohol in C[3] includes 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The (c) monoalcohol in C[3] may be chosen from monovalent aliphatic alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol. Preferably, the (c) monoalcohol in C[3] is ethanol.
[0126] The quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in C[3] in the composition according to the present invention is 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] The composition according to the present invention may also exhibit good fluidity such as low viscosity and good texture such as freshness, due to the presence of (c) monoalcohol in C[3] in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] The quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci 3 in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci 3 in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] The composition according to the present invention can also be stable so that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time, in particular if the amount of the (c) monoalcohols in Ci_3 is 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition according to the present invention can range from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] (Polyamide polycondensate)
[0133] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate. Only one type of polyamide polycondensate may be used, but two or more different types of polyamide polycondensates may be used in combination.
[0134] The term "polycondensate" means, in the context of the present invention, a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functional groups.
[0135] The term "polymer" means, in the context of the present invention, a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs, and even better 10 or more repeating motifs.
[0136] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensates may in particular be selected from polyamide polymers comprising a) a polymer backbone having repeated hydrocarbon motifs having at least one non-pending amide motif and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain comprising at least four carbon atoms and which are bonded to these hydrocarbon motifs.
[0137] The term “functionalized chains” means, for the purposes of the present invention, an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups selected in particular from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane and polysiloxane groups. Furthermore, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains may be at least partially replaced by fluorine atoms.
[0138] The expression "repeated hydrocarbon motifs" means, in the context of the present invention, a motif comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, bearing hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic. These motifs also each include at least one amide group which is advantageously non-pendulous and which is found in the polymer backbone.
[0139] Advantageously, the dangling chains are directly linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the polymer backbone.
[0140] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may comprise, between hydrocarbon motifs, silicone motifs or oxyalkylene motifs.
[0141] Moreover, the (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may advantageously comprise from 40% to 98% of fatty chains, relative to the total number of amide motifs and fatty chains and better still from 50% to 95%.
[0142] Preferably, the dangling fatty chains are linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of the polymer. In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40% to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and even better from 50% to 95%.
[0143] Advantageously, the (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may have a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 (in particular from 1,000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (in particular from 1,000 to 50,000), and more particularly from 1,000 to 30,000, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000, and better still from 2,000 to 10,000.
[0144] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate is insoluble in water, particularly at 25 °C. In particular, it does not comprise an ionic group.
[0145] Preferred lipophilic polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the present invention include polyamides branched by dangling fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 120, and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide backbone via at least one L-linking group. The L-linking group can be selected from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiourea, and thiourethane groups. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide backbone.
[0146] These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (in particular having from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) and an amine selected from diamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines having at least two carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer resulting from a fatty acid comprising an ethylenic unsaturation having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably 16 with 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic, or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine, or hexamethylenediamine. The triamine is, for example, ethylenetriamine. For polymers comprising one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 36 carbon atoms, and even better 12 to 24, and even better 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for example, 18 carbon atoms.
[0147] The (d) lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may be selected in particular from the following polymers of formula (A):
[0148] in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, • R'i independently represents, in each case, a fatty chain and is chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least one carbon atom and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; • R'2 independently represents, in each case, a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 52 carbon atoms; • R'3 independently represents, in each case, an organic group comprising at least one atom chosen from among the atoms of carbon, hydrogen or nitrogen, provided that R'3 comprises at least 3 carbon atoms; • R'4 independently represents, in each case: a hydrogen atom, a alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a direct bond to at least one group selected from R'3 and another R'4 such that, when said group is another R'4, the nitrogen atom to which both R'3 and R'4 are bonded is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R'4-N-R'3, provided that at least 50% of the R'4 groups represent a hydrogen atom, and
[0149] L represents a bonding group, preferably selected from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiourea or thiourethane, optionally substituted by at least one R'i group as defined above.
[0150] According to one embodiment, these polymers are chosen from polymers of formula (A) in which the bonding group L represents an ester group -C(=O)-O-.
[0151] These polymers are more specifically those described in Union Camp US patent document no. 5,783,657.
[0152] Each of these polymers can satisfy, in particular, the following formula (B):
[0153] in which: • m denotes an integer number of amide motifs such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; • Ri is in each case independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; • R2 independently represents, in each case, a hydrocarbon group in C4 to C42> provided that 50% of the R2 groups represent a hydrocarbon group in C30 to C42; • R3 independently represents, in each case, an organic group with at least two carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms;
[0154] and • R4 independently represents, in each case, a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group in Ci to Cio or a direct bond to R3 or to another R4 so that the nitrogen atom to which both R3 and R4 are bonded is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4-N-R3, with at least 50% of the R4 groups representing a hydrogen atom.
[0155] In the specific case of formula (B), the terminal fatty chains optionally functionalized in the sense of the present invention are terminal chains linked to the final nitrogen atom of the polyamide skeleton.
[0156] In particular, the ester groups of formula (B), which are part of the terminal and / or hanging fatty chains within the meaning of the present invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and even better from 20 to 35%.
[0157] In addition, m advantageously represents an integer from 1 to 5 and even better greater than 2.
[0158] Preferably, Ri is an alkyl group at C2 to C22 and preferably at C22 to C6. Advantageously, R2 may be a hydrocarbon (alkylene) group at C42. Preferably, at least 50% and even better at least 75% of the R2 groups are groups having 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R2 groups are groups hydrogenated in C4 to Ci9 and even in C4 to Ci2.
[0159] Preferably, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group from C2 to C36 or a polyoxyalkylene group and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group from C2 to C12.
[0160] Hydrocarbon groups can be saturated or unsaturated and linear, cyclic or branched. Furthermore, alkyl and alkylene groups can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched.
[0161] Generally, polymers of formula (B) are supplied in the form of polymer mixtures, knowing that these mixtures may also include a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (B) where na has the value 0, i.e. a diester.
[0162] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, a mixture of copolymers of a condensed C36 diacid with ethylenediamine is used; the terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid ends with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (also known as cetearyl alcohol) (INCI name: Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer). Its weight-average molecular weight is preferably 6000. These mixtures are sold, in particular, by Arizona Chemical under the trade names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 VG, respectively, as an 80% gel (as active ingredient) in mineral oil and a 100% gel (as active ingredient). They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C.
[0163] Polyamide polycondensates corresponding to the general formula (A) may also be cited as polymers comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymer backbone via at least one tertiary amide linker group (also known as amide-terminated polyamide or ATPA). For further information on these polymers, see US Patent No. 6,503,522.
[0164] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, and di(Ci4-Ci8)alkylamine(s) (INCI name: Ethylenediamide / Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-Ci4-Ci8 Alkyl Amide) will be used in particular. This copolymer is sold in particular under the trade name Sylvaclear A200V by Arizona Chemical.
[0165] According to another embodiment, the polyamide of formula (A) may also be a poly(ester-amide) comprising ester ends (ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) or ETPEA), such as, for example, those whose preparation is described in US patent document No. 6,552,160.
[0166] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, and Neopentyl glycol and stearyl alcohol (INCI name: Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine / Neopentyl Glycol / Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer). This copolymer is sold, in particular, under the trade name Sylvaclear C75 V by Arizona Chemical.
[0167] Other examples of polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the present invention include those comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymer backbone via at least one ether or polyether linking group (in which case it is referred to as an ether-terminated poly(ether)amide). These polymers are described, for example, in US patent document no. 6,399,713.
[0168] The (d) polyamide polycondensate according to the present invention may advantageously have a softening point above 65 °C, which may be up to 190 °C. Preferably, it has a softening point ranging from 70 to 130 °C, and even better from 80 to 105 °C. Polyamide is, in particular, a non-waxy polymer.
[0169] As (d) polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the present invention, one may also mention polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent whole motifs being condensed via an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in particular those sold under the Versamid® brand by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or under the Onamid® brand, in particular Onamid S or C, by Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. These resins have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, refer to US patent documents no. 3,645,705 and US patent no. 3,148,125. More specifically, Versamid® 930 or 744 are used.
[0170] Polyamides sold by Arizona Chemical under the Uni-Rez brand names (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold by Henkel under the Macromelt 6212 brand name can also be used. For further information on these polyamides, see US patent document no. 5,500,209.
[0171] It is also possible to use polyamide resins derived from plants, such as those described in US patent no. 5,783,657, and US patent no. 5,998,570.
[0172] In particular, it is preferable that the (d) polyamide polycondensate be an ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer.
[0173] The quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 7.0% by weight or less, preferably 6.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 6.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0175] The quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6.5% by weight, and more preferably from 1.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] (Water)
[0177] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be anhydrous.
[0178] The term "anhydrous" here means that the composition according to the present invention can contain only a small amount of water, preferably no water at all. Thus, the amount of water may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contain no water.
[0179] (Other aspects)
[0180] According to the present invention, the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
[0181] It has been discovered that an excessive amount of polyamide polycondensate(s) can negatively amplify the SPF value of the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, in the composition according to the present invention, the amount of polyamide polycondensate(s) is limited so that the weight ratio between the amount of polyamide polycondensate(s) and the amount of oil(s) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less. By limiting the amount of polyamide polycondensate(s), the composition according to the present invention can have a sufficiently increased SPF value.
[0182] Furthermore, the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 or more, preferably 0.02 or more, and more preferably 0.03 or more.
[0183] Thus, the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01 to 0.15, preferably from 0.02 to 0.14, and more preferably from 0.03 to 0.13.
[0184] (Other ingredients)
[0185] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned components, components typically used in cosmetics, specifically surfactants or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners other than ingredient (d), volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, silicones and silicone derivatives other than ingredient (a), natural extracts derived from animals or plants, waxes, and the like, within a range that does not hinder the effects of the present invention.
[0186] The composition according to the present invention may include the above optional additive(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Preparation]
[0187] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients (a) to (d), as essential ingredients, and the optional ingredient(s), as explained above.
[0188] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0189] The composition according to the present invention can be uniform.
[0190] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, gel, or transparent or translucent solid. In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a liquid, gel, or transparent solid, since the crystallization of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter can be reduced or avoided.
[0191] Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmittance with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency was measured with a V-550 (JASCO) with a 2 mm wide cell as the average of the visible light transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm)). The measurement is made on the undiluted composition. The blank is determined with distilled water.
[0192] The composition of the present invention may preferably have a transparency greater than 50%, more preferably greater than 60%, more preferably greater than 70%, even more preferably greater than 80%, and most preferably greater than 90%. [Process]
[0193] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process cosmetic for a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. The keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, mucous membranes, lips, nails, and the like.
[0194] Since the composition according to the present invention includes (b) a solid lipophilic UV filter, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used to protect a keratinous substance from UV rays. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a sunscreen product.
[0195] Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for UV protection, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for skin protection against UV. [Use]
[0196] According to the present invention, (d) polyamide polycondensate can function as an FPS amplifier, i.e. an agent for increasing the capacity to protect against UV rays.
[0197] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to the use of (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate in a composition comprising: a. at least one oil; b. at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and c. at least one monoalcohol in C10_3,
[0198] in which
[0199] the quantity of the (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
[0200] the weight ratio between the quantity of the (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less,
[0201] in order to improve the UV protection capacity of the composition.
[0202] The improvement in UV protection capacity of the above composition can be determined by increasing the SPF value of the composition.
[0203] The above composition may exhibit good fluidity as well as good texture.
[0204] Good fluidity here means that the viscosity of the composition is sufficiently low, such as less than 10 mPa.s at 25 °C under atmospheric pressure.
[0205] The right texture here includes a feeling of comfort to the touch, such as freshness.
[0206] The above composition may also exhibit good stability.
[0207] Good stability here means that no crystal of the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is observed over time, such as at least over one week.
[0208] It is preferable that the above composition should exhibit good fluidity as well as at least one of good stability and good texture, and more preferably both good fluidity, good stability and good texture.
[0209] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those for the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0210] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1]
[0211] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1. The numerical values of the quantities of components shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 1 correspond to those of the claims.
[0212] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 (a) Isopropyl myristate 11.15 11.15 11.15 11.15 Diisopropyl sebacate 5 5 5 5 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 4 4 4 4 Dicaprylyl carbonate 10 10 10 10 Alkyl benzoate Cl2-15 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 (b) Ethylhexyl triazone 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4 4 4 4 Drometrizole trisiloxane 5 5 5 5 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2 2 2 2 (c) Ethanol qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO (d) Dilinoleate copolymer ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer 3 2 1 - Weight ratio (d) / (a) 0.086 0.057 0.029 - SPF 229 140 30 16 Fluidity Good Good Good Good Texture Good Good Good Good Stability Good Good Good Good [Reviews]
[0213] (FPS)
[0214] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was shaken 10 times in a stoppered container to ensure homogeneity. Each homogeneous composition was transferred onto a plate (Helio HD 6 plate, PMMA, roughness: 6 µm) using an adjustable pipette at a concentration of 0.8 mg / cm² of the plate and then spread evenly with the fingers. The coated plate was air-dried for 15 minutes at room temperature. The resulting sample plate was placed in a Labsphere ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (UV-2000 model from Solar Light Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). UV irradiation took place at 12 points on the sample plate. The in vitro FPS value was calculated from the observed absorbance model.
[0215] The results are shown on the "FPS" line in Table 1.
[0216] (Fluidity)
[0217] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was measured using a CP10 viscometer (Gilson.com) at 25 ± 2 °C. The results were categorized according to the following criteria:
[0218] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0219] Poor: 10 mPa.s or more
[0220] The results are shown on the "Fluidity" line in Table 1.
[0221] (Texture)
[0222] Each panelist applied the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 to the skin to evaluate the texture for each composition, and rated them according to the following criteria.
[0223] Good: Fresh
[0224] Correct: Rather fresh
[0225] Bad: Not fresh
[0226] The results are shown on the "Texture" line in Table 1.
[0227] (Stability)
[0228] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was poured into a glass vial and maintained at a temperature of 4 °C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter conditions of each composition was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0229] Good: No crystals were observed
[0230] Bad: A crystal has been observed.
[0231] The results are shown on the "Stability" line in Table 1.
[0232] (Summary)
[0233] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which include an ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer, corresponding to ingredient (d) of claim 1, may have an increased SPF value. It is clear from Examples 1 to 3 that the higher the above weight ratio, the higher the SPF value.
[0234] Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not include ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer, has a lower SPF value. [Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3]
[0235] The following compositions according to Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the components indicated in Table 2. The numerical values of the quantities of components The values shown in Table 2 are all based on the "% by weight" of active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 2 correspond to those of the claims.
[0236] [Tables2] Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 (a) Isopropyl myristate 9 9 9 9 Diisopropyl sebacate 7 7 7 7 Dicaprylyl carbonate 9 9 9 9 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 5 5 Octocrylene 7 7 7 7 Homosalate 10 10 10 10 (b) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 3 3 (c) Ethanol qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO (d) Ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer 3 5 7.5 10 Weight ratio (d) / (a) 0.064 0.106 0.160 0.213 SPF 80 128 62 20 Fluidity Good Good Good Good Texture Good Good Good Good Stability Good Good Good Good [Reviews]
[0237] (FPS)
[0238] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 was shaken 10 times in a stoppered container to ensure homogeneity. Each homogeneous composition was transferred onto a plate (Helio HD 6 plate, PMMA, roughness: 6 µm) using an adjustable pipette at a concentration of 0.8 mg / cm² of the plate and then spread evenly with the fingers. The coated plate was air-dried for 15 minutes at room temperature. The resulting sample plate was placed in a Labsphere ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (UV-2000 model from Solar Light Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). Irradiation with the rays UV radiation was applied at 12 points on the sample plate. The in vitro FPS value was calculated from the observed absorbance pattern.
[0239] The results are shown on the "FPS" line in Table 2.
[0240] (Fluidity)
[0241] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 was measured using a CP10 viscometer (Gilson.com) at 25 ± 2 °C. The results were categorized according to the following criteria:
[0242] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0243] Bad: 10 mPa.s or more
[0244] The results are shown on the "Fluidity" line in Table 2.
[0245] (Texture)
[0246] Each panelist applied the compositions according to Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 to the skin to evaluate the texture for each composition, and rated them according to the following criteria.
[0247] Good: Fresh
[0248] Correct: Rather fresh
[0249] Bad: Not fresh
[0250] The results are shown on the "Texture" line in Table 2.
[0251] (Stability)
[0252] Each of the compositions according to Examples 4 and 5 and Comparative Examples 2 and 3 was poured into a glass vial and maintained at a temperature of 4 °C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter conditions of each composition was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0253] Good: No crystals were observed
[0254] Bad: A crystal was observed.
[0255] The results are shown on the "Stability" line in Table 2.
[0256] (Summary)
[0257] Compositions according to Examples 4 and 5, which include an ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer, corresponding to ingredient (d) of claim 1, in an amount such that the weight ratio between the amount of ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer and the amount of oils is 0.15 or less, may have a sufficiently increased SPF value.
[0258] Furthermore, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which include a copolymer of ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer, corresponding to ingredient (d) of claim 1, in an amount such that the weight ratio between the amount of ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer and the amount of oils is greater than 0.15, may have a reduced SPF value, compared to that obtained by the composition according to Example 5.
[0259] The above results mean that the quantity of ingredient (d) in the composition according to the present invention must be limited in order to obtain a sufficiently increased SPF value. Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5
[0260] The following compositions according to Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5, shown in Table 3, were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 3. The numerical values of the quantities of the components shown in Table 3 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials. The symbols (a) to (d) in Table 3 correspond to those of the claims.
[0261] [Tables3] Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 (a) Isopropyl myristate qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO qsplOO Diisopropyl sebacate 7 7 7 7 7 7 Dicaprylyl carbonate 9 9 9 9 9 9 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 5 5 5 5 Octocrylene 7 7 7 7 7 7 Homosalate 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 (b) Butyl methoxydibenzylmethane 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 (c) Ethanol 10 20 30 40 - 5 (d) Ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer 5 5 5 5 5 5 Weight ratio (d) / (a) 0.061 0.069 0.081 0.096 0.054 0.057 Fluidity Good Good Good Good Poor Poor Stability Good Good Good Good Good Good [Reviews]
[0262] (Fluidity)
[0263] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 was measured using a CP10 viscometer (Gilson.com) at 25 ± 2 °C. The results were categorized according to the following criteria:
[0264] Good: less than 10 mPa.s
[0265] Bad: 10 mPa.s or more
[0266] The results are shown on the "Fluidity" line in Table 3.
[0267] (Stability)
[0268] Each of the compositions according to Examples 6 to 9 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 was poured into a glass vial and maintained at a temperature of 4 °C for 1 week. An optical microscope image under polarized filter conditions of each composition was observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0269] Good: No crystals were observed
[0270] Bad: A crystal has been observed.
[0271] The results are shown on the "Stability" line in Table 3.
[0272] (Summary)
[0273] Compositions according to Examples 6 to 9, which include ethanol, corresponding to ingredient (c) of claim 1, in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, may exhibit good fluidity.
[0274] Furthermore, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which include ethanol, corresponding to ingredient (c) of claim 1, in an amount of less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, could not exhibit good fluidity.
[0275] The above results mean that the quantity of ingredient (c) in the composition according to the present invention must be 10% by weight or more in order to obtain good fluidity.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; (c) at least one Ci_3 monoalcohol; and (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate, wherein the amount of (c) Ci_3 monoalcohol(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the amount of (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) to the amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) oil is selected from ester oils and liquid lipophilic UV filters.
3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the ester oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the liquid lipophilic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) solid lipophilic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, dro-metrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (c) monoalcohol in Cl 3 is ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (d) polyamide polycondensate is an ethylenediamine di-linoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is anhydrous.
9. Cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on the keratinous substance.
10. Use of (d) at least one polyamide polycondensate in a composition, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one solid lipophilic UV filter; and (c) at least one C1.3 monoalcohol, in which the quantity of (c) monoalcohol(s) in Ci_3 in the composition is 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio between the quantity of (d) polyamide polycondensate(s) and the quantity of (a) oil(s) in the composition is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.14 or less, and more preferably 0.13 or less, in order to improve the UV protection capacity of the composition.