Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms

A cosmetic composition with Fagus sylvatica bud extract, glycolic acid, and minimal surfactants and ethanol ensures clean phase separation and enhances skin appearance by reducing swirls and pore size, addressing the demixing issues in two-phase cosmetics.

FR3158636A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024000951
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-01-31
Publication Date
2025-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing two-phase cosmetic compositions with plant extracts suffer from rapid demixing and unsightly swirl formation at the interface, which is exacerbated by the use of ethanol, which is undesirable for sensitive skin types.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase with Fagus sylvatica bud extract, glycolic acid, and a linear diol, with minimal surfactants and ethanol, ensuring clean phase separation and absence of swirls.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves good demixing quality, improving skin radiance, complexion evenness, and reducing pore size while avoiding ethanol-related skin issues.

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Abstract

Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, as well as the use of said composition for the care of keratin materials.
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Description

Title of the invention: Two-phase composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in particular skin care.

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular a non-therapeutic method, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials. Prior art

[0003] Compositions consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known as "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0004] A relatively rapid demixing of the two phases as well as a clear interface between the two phases after their use constitutes one of the desired qualities of two-phase compositions. Indeed, obtaining a clear and rapid phase shift is desirable. for various reasons, including that poor separation of the two phases is perceived as unsightly by users.

[0005] Furthermore, depending on the cosmetic active ingredients used in these two-phase compositions such as plant extracts, demixing may be more or less compromised with the appearance of a poor quality interface, in particular with the formation of swirls at this interface.

[0006] A solution known to those skilled in the art is the addition of ethanol to this type of two-phase composition. However, the use of ethanol in cosmetic compositions is less appreciated by consumers, particularly those with reactive or sensitive skin.

[0007] Thus, there remains a need for new two-phase compositions consisting of two distinct immiscible phases incorporating cosmetic active ingredients of the plant extract type, comprising little or no ethanol and exhibiting good demixing qualities resulting in a clean interface and the absence of swirls in the aqueous phase. Statement of the invention

[0008] The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

[0009] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract such as a Fagus sylvatica bud extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as caprylyl glycol, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition; makes it possible to ensure good demixing quality, in particular by obtaining a clean interface between the two phases and by the absence of swirls in the aqueous phase.

[0010] The composition according to the invention also has desquamating properties.

[0011] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the evenness of the complexion, the softness of the skin; to reduce the size of the pores of the skin. Summary of the invention

[0012] The present invention therefore has as its first subject a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less of 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.

[0014] A third object of the present invention is the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.

[0015] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows. Definitions

[0016] “Keratin materials” means the skin of the body or face, the lips, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the nails, and the hair of a human being.

[0017] By "skin" is meant the entire skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, hands or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0018] By “cosmetic composition” is meant a composition particularly suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0019] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the condition in question.

[0020] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" designate the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0021] By “topical use or application” is meant a use or application on the surface of the keratin materials considered, preferably on the surface of the skin considered.

[0022] By “treatment” we mean a non-therapeutic treatment capable of producing an aesthetic effect without preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic molecule, that is to say that it has two parts of different polarity, in general one is lipophilic (soluble dispersible in an oily phase), the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0024] Among the surfactants, there are anionic, cationic, non-ionic surfactants, in particular alkyl glycosides such as decyl glucoside, and amphoteric surfactants. Detailed description Composition

[0025] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition not comprising ethanol.

[0026] Preferably, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 50 / 50 and 99 / 1, more preferably between 70 / 30 and 99 / 1, even better between 80 / 20 and 98 / 2.

[0027] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, more preferably, less than 0.01% by weight of surfactant, even better, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactant (0%).

[0028] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably, the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of alkyl glucoside, more preferably, less than 0.01% by weight of alkyl glucoside, even better, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of alkyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of alkyl glucoside (0%).

[0029] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.2% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition comprises less than 0.1% by weight of decyl glucoside, more preferably, less than 0.01% by weight of decyl glucoside, even better, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.001% by weight of decyl glucoside relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of decyl glucoside (0%).

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of ethanol, more preferably, less than 0.5% by weight of ethanol, even better, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is completely free of ethanol (0%). Plant extract

[0031] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one plant extract.

[0032] Said plant extract used in the composition according to the invention has one or more cosmetic activities, preferably, said plant extract has a desquamation activity of keratin materials, preferably of the skin.

[0033] Advantageously, said plant extract comprises at least one compound chosen from amino acids, lipids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one compound chosen from amino acids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Advantageously, said plant extract is a plant extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family.

[0035] The Fagaceae family, formerly Cupuliferae, includes dicotyledonous plants, it includes 7 to 9 genera, the best known being Castanea (chestnut), Fagus (beech), Quercus (oak).

[0036] More specifically, the genus Fagus (beech) includes around ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe is Fagus sylvatica.

[0037] Advantageously, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, preferably said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus, more preferably, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, Fagus sylvatica, even better said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvatica L.

[0038] Advantageously, said plant extract is an extract of a part of a plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, preferably buds.

[0039] More preferably, said plant extract is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica.

[0040] Even more preferably, said plant extract is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.

[0041] Said plant extract can be obtained from a preliminary stabilization step, in particular by Ultra High Frequencies (UHF) of the harvested plant or part of the plant, preferably buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefosse SA, corresponding to American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), entitled: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.

[0042] This stabilization step ensures that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.

[0043] Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare an extract according to the invention.

[0044] As a plant extract suitable for the invention, mention may be made of aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent extracts.

[0045] Preferably, said plant extract is an aqueous extract.

[0046] Preferably, said plant extract is a mixture of several plant extracts.

[0047] By aqueous solvent is meant any solvent consisting entirely or partly of water. Mention may be made of water itself, hydro-alcoholic solvents in any proportion or solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may be made in particular of ethanol.

[0048] Extraction can be done at room temperature, cold or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.

[0049] An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, preferably from the Fagaceae family, more preferably a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, of the genus Fagus, even better a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, of the species Fagus sylvatica, in a cold aqueous solution, then a second step of removing the suspended particles from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution resulting from the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.

[0050] The extract obtained can then be lyophilized by any conventional lyophilization methods. This gives a powder which can be used directly or mixed in a suitable solvent before use.

[0051] For example, we can cite an extract of beech bud (Fagus sylvatica) such as that marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0052] Said at least one plant extract may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.02% to 0.5% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycolic acid

[0053] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises glycolic acid.

[0054] Glycolic acid belongs to the chemical family of α-hydroxy acids.

[0055] Mention may in particular be made of glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL.

[0056] Glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, even better in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Glycolic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better, in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Diol having 3 to 8 carbon atoms

[0058] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “diol” means any organic molecule comprising two free hydroxyl groups.

[0060] A diol suitable for the invention is a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and carrying two -OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a diol which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of linear alkyl type having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and carrying two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0061] The diols which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear diols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably those chosen from propane diol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferably, those chosen from pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, even better, those chosen from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, said diol is caprylyl glycol.

[0063] For example, we can cite caprylyl glycol marketed under the name ALEEN-8® by the company MINNASOLVE.

[0064] Said diol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even better, in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0065] The aqueous phase may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned compounds, water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s).

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0067] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, even better from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, even better from 80% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Among the organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature - 25°C) there may be mentioned alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols other than those mentioned above; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol, and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol, and glycerin.

[0070] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, even better from 4.0 to 5.5. Fat phase

[0073] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, and optionally other fatty substances such as pasty and / or solid fatty substances.

[0074] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, “oil” means a liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0077] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Raynerie stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0078] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0079] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organo-polysiloxane.

[0080] By “fluorinated oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0081] By "apolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil which does not comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

[0082] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0083] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.

[0084] Volatile oils

[0085] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapor pressure is less than 5 Pa, more particularly the flash point of which is less than 90°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 1 Pa, even more preferably the flash point of which is less than or equal to 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 5 Pa and even more preferably the flash point of which is less than 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 100 Pa.

[0087] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils such as:

[0088] hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: - branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example marketed by INEOS, more preferably isododecane; - linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF; - volatile C5-C12 cyclic, non-aromatic alkanes; - short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example, sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA; - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' 1-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R' 1 and R'2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which RI and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable that RI and R2 are identical. As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group. As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.

[0089] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicone oils such as:

[0090] silicone oils comprising in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dodecamethylpenta-siloxane such as the reference DM-FLUID-2cs marketed by SHIN-ETSU or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane such as the reference XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLO-HEXASILOXANE marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

[0091] Non-volatile oils

[0092] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0093] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0094] Among the non-volatile oils, we can cite: - non-volatile fluorinated oils which may in particular be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752; - the non-volatile silicone oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltri-methicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0095] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures;- non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in C14-C30, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE;(v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, (vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), (vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and (viii) their mixtures; - polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which may be chosen from: • fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26, liquid at room temperature (25°C), preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; as examples, mention may in particular be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter;as well as their mixtures; ; linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10.Examples of such esters include, for example, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate caprate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and their mixtures, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, . isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; and mixtures thereof; hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, benzoic acid 2-phenyl ethyl ester, butyl octyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyl tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with the INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer of fatty acid and dimer diol such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; synthetic ether of formula R1-O-R2 in which RI and R2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical. As a linear alkyl group, there may be mentioned a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. As a branched alkyl group, there may be mentioned a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of cyclohexyl group, 3-methylcyclohexyl group and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group, di-lauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof. Among the non-volatile ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference CETIOL OE marketed by BASF; • carbonates of formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, identical or different, represent a C4 to C12 alkyl chain, and preferably from C6 to C10, linear or branched; the carbonate oils can be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by the company BASF, di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, marketed under the name TEGOSOFT DEC® by the company Evonik, dipro-pylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 Ail from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; di neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate; • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / l-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name); • higher C6-C26 fatty acids that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; and • their mixtures.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil is a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil chosen from i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example example the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures.

[0097] In an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil is a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, in particular of natural origin, chosen from ii) squalane such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C14-C30, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, and viii) their mixtures. Additional compounds

[0098] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise other compounds other than those mentioned above.

[0099] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise additional α-hydroxy acids other than glycolic acid.

[0100] The additional α-hydroxy acids may be chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably, said additional α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, further said additional α-hydroxy acids is lactic acid.

[0101] Mention may be made of lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC ULTRAPURE (90% lactic acid in water) by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVA VEIS.

[0102] The additional α-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better, in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one [3-hydroxy-acid.

[0104] Advantageously, the [3-hydroxy-acids] are chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (I):

[0105] [Chem.l] (I)

[0106] in which: - the radical Ra designates: - an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; - an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which can be conjugated; - an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

[0107] said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Rb is a hydroxyl group;

[0108] as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base and their mixtures.

[0109] According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes: - a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or - an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds;

[0110] said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0111] as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0112] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (I), mention may be made of: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy 5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts.

[0113] The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. More particularly, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used. N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is offered under the name MEXORYL SAB® by CHIMEX.

[0114] Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia. Organic bases include amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting. The compounds of formula (I) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, and EP A-570,230.

[0115] Preferably, said [3-hydroxy-acid] is salicylic acid such as that marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMA-CEUTICAL.

[0116] Said [3-hydroxy-acid] and / or its derivatives, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (II)

[0118] [Chem.2] R^O-PfOXOHM, (II)

[0119] where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

[0120] By alkyl radical is meant a linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0121] Preferably, the alkyl radical is not substituted.

[0122] More preferably, the alkyl radical is linear saturated cyclic.

[0123] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.

[0124] Preferably, n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7. Preferably, n = 6.

[0125] Preferably, the phosphonic derivatives of formula (II) are such that R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7 such as 6.

[0126] Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (II) is phytic acid.

[0127] As an example, we can cite the compound sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS

[0128] under the name “PHYTIC ACID”.

[0129] Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0130] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidant agents, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] The composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase product, even more preferably in the form of a two-phase lotion.

[0133] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "two-phase" or "two-phase composition" means a composition consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest. They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, this must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases on the skin or keratin material where it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term “phase separation” or “demixing”.

[0134] Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0135] Said composition is preferably implemented, within the framework of a use or a treatment method according to the invention, by topical route.

[0136] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may in particular be made of a patch, a cotton pad or a wipe.

[0137] The composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to the skin, preferably the composition according to the invention is not rinsed after being applied to the skin. Use and Method of Treatment

[0138] The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be facial or body care products.

[0139] The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

[0140] These compositions can therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.

[0141] According to another of its objects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for the care of the keratin materials.

[0142] According to another of its objects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, to treat and / or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0143] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials.

[0144] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0145] A cosmetic implementation of the invention is therefore intended only for aesthetic defects of the skin, and therefore does not exert a therapeutic effect.

[0146] The present invention aims at a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care implementation of a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition.

[0147] The methods and uses implemented within the framework of the present invention also relate to the desquamation of the skin, the improvement of the radiance of the skin, the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, the improvement of the softness of the skin, the reduction of the roughness of the skin, the reduction of the microrelief of the skin, the reduction of the size of the pores of the skin.

[0148] Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless otherwise specified.

[0149] Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "between x and y" or "ranging from x to y" corresponds to an inclusive range, that is to say that the values x and y are included in the range.

[0150] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” must be understood as being synonymous with “one or more” unless otherwise specified.

[0151] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, the % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.

[0153] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as appropriate, cited by chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

[0154] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

[0155] Example - Evaluation of the quality of the interface of compositions according to the invention vs. comparative compositions A. Composition of the different phases of the two-phase system Composition of the aqueous phases Number El E2 E3. E4 E5 ES AND FAGUS SYLVATKA SOUTH EXTRACT1!' :3J% 3.1% 11% 31% 3.1% 3.1% LACTIC ACDE^ - - 1ÿ83% - - 1.83% ACDE GLYCOUQUE® - - - - 2C6% 2.G6% 2.06% CAPRYLYL GLYCOL(<- ... - - 0 21% 0.21% - AND HANOL - - - - - - - ACDE SALJCYUQUE'% — - - - BUTYLENE GLYCOL - - - - - - phytic ACID® - - - - - SODIUM HYDROXDE QS pH-4.8 QS pH=4.8 QS pH=4.8 QS pH=4.S QS pH=4.8- QS pH=4.8 QS WATER 100% QS 100% QS 100% QoS 100% QoS 100% QS 100% QS 100% Number ES E& E10 Eli El 2 ET3 FAGUS SYLVABCA BUD EXTRACT 3 1% 3.1% 3.1% 31% 3.1% 31% LACTIC ACID®' 1.83% 1.83%. - 1.83% - - GLYCOLIC ACID® - 2.06% 2 08% 2.06% 2 06% 2.06% CAPRYLYL GLYCOU* 0.21% gs 0' - - 0.21% 0.21% ETHANOL - - 3% 3% - - SALICYLIC ACID*5* - - - - 0.21% - BUTYLENE GLYCOL - - - - - - PHYTIC ACID^ - - - - - 0.31% SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS pH=4.8 QS pH=4.8 QS pH=4.8 QS pH=4.8 QS pH-4.8 QS pH-4.8 WATER QS 100% QS100% QS 100% QS 100% QS100% QS 100%

[0158] (1) beech bud extract (Fagus sylvatica) marketed under the name of GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE at 1.2% by weight of active ingredient in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

[0159] (2) lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS at 90% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0160] (3) glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% by the GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL company at 70% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0161] (4) caprylyl glycol marketed under the name A-LEEN 8 by the company MINNASOLVE at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0162] (5) salicylic acid marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0163] (6) phytic acid sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS under the name “PHYTIC ACID” mination at 50% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0164] The various aqueous phase compositions mentioned above were prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for a person skilled in the art. Compositions of the oily phases Number H1 Hz H3 Cl 5-19 ALKANE 7? 100% 90% - ISONONYL ISONONANOATE ® - - 90% VIDS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL / VITIS VINIFERA SEED OÏL ® 10% 10%

[0166] (7)C15-19 Alkane marketed under the name EMOGREEN L15 by the company SEPPIC at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0167] ® ISONONYL ISONONANOATE marketed under the name DUB ININ by the Stéarinerie Dubois company at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0168] w VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL marketed under the name REFINED AND STABILIZED GRAPE SEED OIL by the company HUILERIES DE LAPALISSE at 99.6% by weight of active ingredient.

[0169] The various oily phase compositions mentioned above were prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for a person skilled in the art. Preparation of the two-phase compositions

[0170] The two-phase lotion type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for a person skilled in the art.

[0171] [Tables4] Composition according to the invention - Biphasic Lotion grams per 100 grams (%) Fatty phase 3 Aqueous phase 97 A. Results: Evaluation of the quality of the interfaces of the different two-phase systems

[0172] Evaluation protocol:

[0173] After bringing the two phases into contact in a glass bottle, the bottle is shaken 10 times.

[0174] 24 hours after stirring the quality of the interface is evaluated. For this the bottle is leaning sideways to assess the amount of swirls passing from the interface to the aqueous phase.

[0175] The quantity of volutes obtained with the different two-phase systems was evaluated:

[0176] [Tables5] Test outside the invention Test outside the invention Test outside the invention Test 7 2 3 Aqueous phase 97% El 97% E2 97% E3 Oily phase 3% H t 3% H1 3% H1 Description of aqueous phase Water Water Plant extract Water Plant extract Lactic acid Deseripfdn oily phase Non-polar oil Non-polar oil Non-polar oil- Evaluation of the products RAS Volutes +++a Volutes Conclusion Acceptable Not acceptable Not acceptable

[0177] [Tableauxô] Test outside the invention Test outside the invention Test according to the invention Test according to the invention Test 4 5 6 7 Aqueous phase 57% E4 97% E5 9 / % E6 7% E t Oily phase 3% H2 3% H2 3% H2 3% H2 Description of the aqueous phase Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Water Plant extract GlycoBic acid Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Glycolic acid Water Plant extract Glycoic acid Lactic acid Description of the oily phase Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Evaluation of the volutes Volutes +++ Volutes + RAS Volutes ++++ Conclusion Not acceptable Not acceptable Acceptable Not acceptable

[0178] [Tables?] Test outside the invention Test according to the invention Test outside the invention Test outside the invention Test 8 9 13 11 Aqueous phase 97% ES 97% E9 97% EW 97% Eli Oily phase 3% H2: 3% H2 3% H2 3% H2 Description of aqueous phase Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Lactic acid Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Glycolic acid Lactic acid Water Plant extract Glycolic acid Ethanol Water Plant extract Glycolic acid Lactic acid Ethanol Description of oily phase Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Evaluation of volutes Volutes RAS RAS RAS Conclusion Not Acceptable Acceptable Acceptable

[0179] [Tables8] Test according to the invention Test according to the invention Test according to the invention Test 12 13 14 Aqueous phase 97% E12 97% El 3 97% E9 Oily phase 3% H2 3% H2 3% H3 Description of aqueous phase Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Glycolic acid Salicylic acid Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Glycolic acid Physical acid Water Plant extract Caprylyl glycol Glycolic acid Lactic acid Description of oily phase Non-polar oil Plant oil Non-polar oil Plant oil Polar oil Plant oil Evaluation of volutes RAS RAS RAS Conclusion Acceptable Acceptable Acceptable

[0180] Conclusion: The results of these tests show a significant improvement in the interface thanks to the combination of glycolic acid and caprylyl glycol for compositions which do not include ethanol.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises at least one plant extract, at least glycolic acid, and at least one linear diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, said composition comprising less than 0.2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and said composition comprising less than 2% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said plant extract comprises at least one compound selected from amino acids, lipids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said plant extract comprises at least one compound selected from amino acids, sugars, polyphenols, alkaloids, terpenes, terpenoids, phenolic compounds such as polyphenols, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, is a plant extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, preferably said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus, more preferably, said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, Fagus sylvatica, even better said plant extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvatica L.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said plant extract is an extract of a part of a plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, more preferably, said plant extract is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica, even more preferably, said plant extract is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said plant extract is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 2% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.02% to 0.5% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content of at least 0.5% by weight, even better in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is selected from propane diol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is selected from pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof, even better said at least one diol having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms is caprylyl glycol.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one diol is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even better, in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, more preferably, less than 0.01% by weight of surfactant, even better, less than 0.001% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of ethanol, more preferably, less than 0.5% by weight of ethanol, even better, less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 50 / 50 and 99 / 1, more preferably between 70 / 30 and 99 / 1, even better between 80 / 20 and 98 / 2.

14. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for the care of keratin materials.

15. Cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for the care of keratin materials.

Citation Information

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