Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application of at least one bismuth salt and optionally water

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, nails and / or skin, comprising at least the use on said keratin materials of at least one bismuth salt and optionally water.

Description

Title of the invention: Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application of at least one bismuth salt and optionally water

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular nails, lips and / or skin, comprising at least the use on said keratin materials of at least one bismuth salt, as well as its solvates such as its hydrates, and optionally water.

[0002] In the cosmetic and dermatological field, keratin materials, in particular nails, lips and / or skin, are generally subjected to external aggressions, in particular to shocks and / or atmospheric aggressions, for example pollution and / or bad weather, to mechanical treatments, such as repeated rubbing, and / or to chemical treatments, such as repeated washing, contact with more or less hard water, and other solvents that can damage the skin such as vinegar. Keratin materials are thus constantly attacked, causing them to wear over time, resulting in a progressive reduction in their cosmetic and / or mechanical properties.

[0003] The skin and lips can in particular become dry and dehydrated due to external atmospheric aggressions and / or makeup compositions. In addition, the mechanical properties of the nails can decrease due to shocks, abrasion and / or contact with water, organic solvents commonly used in cosmetics and / or detergents.

[0004] In order to overcome such drawbacks, it is usual to use compositions capable of forming coatings on keratin materials intended to protect them from external aggressions as well as mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0005] However, such coatings still too often have the disadvantage of not being sufficiently resistant, in particular to water, ambient humidity, detergent products such as soaps, shower gels, etc. and / or to friction, without affecting the properties conferred on keratin materials.

[0006] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed on the keratin materials can be sticky and cause problems of discomfort upon application or over time, on the skin, lips and / or nails.

[0007] Furthermore, such coatings can easily fade over time, thus degrading the protection provided to keratin materials.

[0008] Thus there is a real need to implement a process making it possible to protect effectively keratin materials, in particular the lips, nails and / or skin, without inducing the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e. leading to the formation of a coating that remains resistant over time and / or to external aggressions and / or mechanical treatments and / or chemical treatments while minimizing discomfort problems on said materials.

[0009] In other words, one of the aims of the present invention is to provide a coating capable of effectively protecting keratin materials while being resistant, in particular to repeated rubbing, to water, to ambient humidity, to washing, in particular to detergent products, to impacts, and / or to mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0010] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular nails, lips and / or skin, comprising at least the use on said keratin materials of at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and optionally water.

[0011] According to an advantageous variant, the subject of the process of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of wet keratin materials, in particular nails, lips and / or skin, comprising at least the use on said wet keratin materials of at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates with or without water, preferably without water.

[0012] The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve the objectives as described above, that is to say that it leads to the formation of a homogeneous coating capable of effectively protecting keratin materials and which is resistant over time to external aggressions, in particular shocks and / or atmospheric aggressions such as ambient humidity and / or water, to mechanical treatments, such as rubbing, and / or to chemical treatments, in particular washing with water and / or shower gels or soaps, to makeup processes or to the application of compositions intended for the nails.

[0013] The deposits or coatings thus formed on the keratin materials exhibit in particular good resistance to external aggressions, such as water, ambient humidity, oils, particularly food oils, vinegar, sweat, sebum and / or shower gels, soaps, ensuring good resistance over time.

[0014] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed do not stick to the touch and transfer little, if at all, which makes it possible to minimize problems of discomfort at the time of application and / or after application.

[0015] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed have the advantage of not flowing from the surface of the keratin materials, which is of great interest in being able to clearly delineate the contours, in particular if the cosmetic composition comprising the salt(s) of Bismuths and their solvates such as hydrates also include one or more pigments and / or one or more colorants, and which is intended for makeup of the lips, facial skin or nails.

[0016] In other words, the coatings thus obtained remain stable over time on the surface of keratin materials.

[0017] By "stable coating" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the coating, formed on the surface of the substrate, has a viscosity and a visual appearance which, at atmospheric pressure and constant temperature (25°C), do not change or change little over a period ranging from one hour to several days.

[0018] Advantageously, when the method according to the invention is implemented on the skin, in particular of the face, and / or the lips, the coating thus formed is in particular resistant to water, oil or even vinegar.

[0019] Advantageously, when the method according to the invention is implemented on the nails, the coating thus formed is in particular resistant to abrasion, in particular to repeated dry rubbing, to impacts and / or to organic solvents usual in cosmetics.

[0020] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0022] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0023] Similarly, the expression "at least" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "greater than or equal to". Bismuth salt(s)

[0024] As indicated above, the process according to the invention uses on the keratin materials one or more bismuth salts as well as its solvates such as hydrates.

[0025] The bismuth salt(s) may be in powder form or in an organic solvent.

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bismuth salt(s) are in the form of salts free from organic solvent.

[0027] According to another embodiment of the invention, the bismuth salt(s) are in an organic solvent.

[0028] Preferably, the organic solvent is a solvent facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) polar protic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, in par in particular (C2-C4)alkanols such as ethanol, b) polar aprotic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, such as bl) di(Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, in particular diethyl ether, or di(Ci-C4)alkyl ketones, in particular acetone, and b2) (Ci-C4)alkyl (CrC4)carboxylates such as ethyl acetate, preferably the solvent is chosen from polar aprotic solvents bl).

[0029] The bismuth salt(s) may be organic or inorganic bismuth salts.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, bismuth salts are understood to mean the hydrated or non-hydrated forms.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) not in the form of a pigment.

[0032] The bismuth salt(s) is or are in particular different from pigments, in particular special effect pigments, in particular pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0033] The bismuth salt(s) is(are) in particular different from bismuth oxychloride.

[0034] In other words, the bismuth salt(s) is or are in particular different from bismuth oxychloride, in particular different from pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, preferably different from special effect pigments, and more preferably different from pigments.

[0035] Thus the bismuth salt(s) is or are in particular different from bismuth oxychloride, preferably are different from pigments.

[0036] The bismuth salt(s) which can be used in the present invention may be chosen from: • bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride BiCl3, • bismuth nitrate (Bi(NO3)3, • bismuth sulfate, • bismuth phosphate, • (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylates of bismuth and possibly of alkali and alkaline earth metals, such as potassium bismuth subcitrate, or bismuth acetate (Bi(CH3COO)3), • bismuth (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylates such as bismuth methacrylate (Bi(CH2C(CH3)CO2)3), bismuth acrylate, • bismuth (poly)(Ci-C6)alkoxide such as bismuth (iso)propoxide Bi(OCH2CH2CH3)3, • (poly)(hydroxy)aryl(poly)carboxylates such as Bismuth subsalicylate and bismuth salicylate.

[0037] Preferably, the bismuth salt(s) are inorganic bismuth salts.

[0038] In other words, the bismuth salt(s) are preferably chosen from bismuth mineral acid salts.

[0039] Preferably, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) chosen from bismuth halide(s), bismuth nitrate and mixtures thereof.

[0040] More preferably, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) chosen from bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride. Process

[0041] As indicated above, the method according to the invention uses on keratin materials, preferably skin, nails and / or skin, at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as the hydrates as defined above and optionally water.

[0042] The method according to the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0043] The method according to the invention is notably different from a method for coloring keratin materials.

[0044] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method allows the formation of an uncolored coating on keratin materials. According to this option, the method does not use dyes or pigments.

[0045] Preferably, the keratin materials can be dry or wet.

[0046] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method implements on wet keratin materials, preferably pre-wet skin, pre-wet lips (with water or saliva), pre-wet nails and / or nails, at least one bismuth salt and its solvates such as hydrates. The bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such as hydrates may be present in this process in an aqueous composition or in powder form, preferably in powder form.

[0047] The method according to the invention can be implemented on any type of keratin material, in particular on any type of skin, lips and / or nails, in particular damaged or sensitized skin.

[0048] Advantageously, the method according to the invention is implemented on the skin.

[0049] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method uses water. The bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above and water can be formulated in the same composition or in separate compositions.

[0050] The bismuth salt(s) may be formulated in a solid composition A, preferably free of organic solvent.

[0051] According to another embodiment, the bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such that the hydrates as defined above are found in one or more organic solvent(s) (composition A'), preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular bl) as defined above.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, the solid composition A may be in the form of powders, paste, particles (for example spherical particles such as small beads or granules). Preferably, the solid composition A is in the form of powders or particles.

[0053] By "powder" is meant a composition A in powder form, preferably essentially free of dust (or fine particles). In other words, the particle size distribution is such that the weight ratio of particles which have a size less than or equal to 50 μm (fines ratio), preferably less than or equal to 45 μm (fines ratio) is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of particles (particle size evaluated using a RETSCH AS 200 DIGIT granulometer; Oscillation height: 1.25 mm / sieving time: 5 minutes).

[0054] By “particles” is meant small fractionated objects formed of solid particles aggregated together, of variable shapes and sizes. They may be of regular or irregular shape. In particular, they may be spherical (such as granules, pellets, balls), square, rectangular, or elongated such as rods. Spherical particles are particularly preferred.

[0055] Preferably, the solid composition A is in the form of powders.

[0056] Preferably, the solid composition A consists of one or more salt(s) of bismuth as well as their solvates such as hydrates as defined above.

[0057] Preferably, the solid composition A comprises one or more bismuth salts as well as their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and their mixtures, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0058] Advantageously also, the solid composition A consists of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate and / or their mixtures, preferably bismuth chloride.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition A' comprises one or more bismuth salts as well as their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0060] Water may be formulated into an aqueous composition B.

[0061] By "aqueous" is meant a composition B comprising at least 10% by weight of water, preferably at least 20% by weight of water, more preferably at least 40% by weight of water, better still at least 50% by weight of water, even better still at least 65% by weight of water, in particular at least 80% by weight of water.

[0062] Advantageously, the aqueous composition B consists of water.

[0063] The aqueous composition B can be applied in the form of a liquid composition or in the form of a spray.

[0064] Solid composition A and aqueous composition B are two distinct compositions.

[0065] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises at least the implementation on said keratin materials: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0066] According to a first embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises at least the application to said keratin materials: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0067] According to this first embodiment, the solid composition A and the aqueous composition B can be applied simultaneously or sequentially to the keratin materials, preferably to human skin, lips and / or nails.

[0068] Preferably, in accordance with this first embodiment, the solid composition A and the aqueous composition B can be applied sequentially to the keratin materials.

[0069] Thus, solid composition A can be applied to the keratin materials and then aqueous composition B is applied.

[0070] Alternatively, the aqueous composition B can first be applied to the keratin materials so as to moisten them, then the solid composition A is applied to the moistened keratin materials.

[0071] In other words, in accordance with the first embodiment, the method according to the invention preferably comprises at least the successive application to said keratin materials: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, preferably chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0072] Advantageously, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin materials: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, preferably chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride, then - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0073] As a variant, in accordance with the first embodiment, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin materials: - at least one aqueous composition B, then - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined above, notably chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0074] Preferably, the step of applying the solid composition A comprising one or more bismuth salts as defined previously includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0075] Preferably, the step of applying the aqueous composition B includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0076] According to a second embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises: - at least the mixture of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined above and at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C, - at least the application to said materials of at least said composition C.

[0077] Thus, in accordance with this second embodiment, compositions A and compositions B, as defined above, are mixed and then the resulting composition C is applied to the keratin materials.

[0078] In other words, composition C results from the mixing of solid composition A and aqueous composition B.

[0079] The resulting composition C is applied immediately after or after on the keratin materials.

[0080] Preferably, composition C is an aqueous solution comprising one or more bismuth salt(s) as defined above.

[0081] Preferably, composition C is an aqueous solution comprising one or more inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0082] According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin materials: - at least one composition A' comprising at least one bismuth salt, and at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular bl) as defined above; then - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0083] Preferably, the step of applying the solid composition A' comprising one or more bismuth salts as defined above and one or more solvents, includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0084] According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises at least the implementation on said keratin fibers: - at least the mixture of a composition A' comprising: • at least one bismuth salt as defined previously, and • at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is(are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular b 1) as defined above; and - at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C', then the application to said fibers of at least said composition C'.

[0085] Thus, in accordance with this third embodiment, compositions A' and compositions B, as defined above, are mixed and then the resulting composition C is applied to the keratin materials. Preferably, the amount of the organic solvent(s), in particular the solvent(s) facilitating the evaporation of water, is less than 20%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, better still less than or equal to 5%, even better still less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A'.

[0086] In other words, composition C' results from the mixing of composition A' and aqueous composition B.

[0087] The resulting composition C' is applied immediately after or after on the keratin materials.

[0088] Preferably, composition C' is an aqueous solution comprising one or more bismuth salt(s) as defined above.

[0089] The bismuth salt(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C or C'.

[0090] Preferably, the exposure time of composition C on the keratin materials can vary from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0091] The solid composition A or A', the aqueous composition B and / or the composition C or C' may optionally contain one or more additives such as preservatives, pH agents, buffer, viscosifying agent, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or zwitterionic polymers.

[0092] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples Example 1

[0093] First, a bismuth chloride powder is applied to the skin and distributed over the entire surface.

[0094] Water is then applied to the skin.

[0095] A whitish and homogeneous coating is obtained on the skin and it is found that this coating is resistant to repeated dry rubbing and to time for a period of several days. Example 2

[0096] An aqueous solution of 4% by weight of bismuth chloride relative to the total weight of the solution is prepared.

[0097] The resulting mixture is then applied to the skin without delay.

[0098] We observe the formation of a whitish coating on the skin which is resistant all day without running. Example 5: Analysis of abrasion resistance

[0099] The protocol of example 1 is reproduced on five plates of several tens of square micrometers.

[0100] After a period of 4 days after the formation of the coating, each plate is subjected to the following abrasion test: Abrasion test:

[0101] Ions: Argon

[0102]

[0103]

[0104] Scan: 1.5 Abrasion time: 1 cycle of 2 minutes Quantitative analysis of the surface of the plates shows that the presence of bismuth and chloride is detected.

Claims

1.

2.

3. Claims Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular nails, lips and / or skin, comprising at least the use on said keratin materials of at least one bismuth salt and its solvates such as hydrates, and optionally water. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are different from bismuth oxychloride, preferably are different from pigments. Process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are chosen from: - bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride BiCl3, - bismuth nitrate (Bi(NO3)3, - bismuth sulfate, - bismuth phosphate, - bismuth (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylates and possibly alkali and alkaline earth metals, such as potassium bismuth subcitrate, or bismuth acetate (Bi(CH3COO)3), - bismuth (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylates such as bismuth methacrylate (Bi(CH2C(CH3)CO2)3), bismuth acrylate, - bismuth (poly)(Ci-C6)alkoxide such as bismuth (iso)propoxide Bi(OCH2CH2CH3)3, - (poly)(hydroxy)aryl(poly)carboxylates such as Bismuth subsalicylate and Bismuth salicylate.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, preferably chosen from bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate and mixtures thereof, even more preferably is bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least the implementation on said keratin materials of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and of at least one aqueous composition B.

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least the successive application to said keratin materials of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt and at least one aqueous composition B.

7. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises: - at least the mixture of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 and at least one aqueous composition B as defined in claim 5 or 6, to obtain a composition C, - at least the application to said materials of at least said composition C.

8. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least the implementation on said keratin materials: - of at least the mixture of a composition A' comprising: • at least one bismuth salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and • at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) polar protic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, in particular (C2-C4)alkanols such as ethanol, and b) polar aprotic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, such as b1) di(CrC4 )alkyl ethers, in particular diethyl ether, or di(CrC4 )alkyl ketones, in particular acetone, and b2) (C1-C4 )carboxylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl such as ethyl acetate, preferably di(Ci-C4)alkyl ethers,

9. - of at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C', then the application to said materials of at least said composition C', Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C'.