Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising a step of applying at least one alkoxysilane, a film-forming polymer and a coloring agent, and a heat treatment step

By applying alkoxysilanes, film-forming polymers, and coloring agents with heat and water vapor treatment, the process addresses the issue of color durability and uniformity on keratin fibers, resulting in a resistant and smooth color coating.

FR3158645A1Active Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024000723
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-01-25
Publication Date
2025-08-01
Estimated Expiration
2044-01-25

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair coloring methods, particularly temporary and non-permanent methods, result in colorations that are not resistant to shampooing and external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing, and rubbing, leading to poor durability and uneven color distribution.

Method used

A process involving the application of an alkoxysilane composition, a film-forming polymer, and a coloring agent followed by heat and water vapor treatment to create a resistant, homogeneous color coating on keratin fibers.

Benefits of technology

The process achieves a smooth and durable colored coating on hair that withstands shampooing and external aggressions like brushing and perspiration without damaging the hair.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (I') or (II), the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer, and the application of heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
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Description

Title of the invention: Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising a step of applying at least one alkoxysilane, a film-forming polymer and a coloring agent, and a heat treatment step

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II), the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer, and the application of heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers. Said composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0002] In the field of coloring keratin fibers, in particular human fibers, it is already known to color keratin fibers by different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.

[0003] There are essentially three types of hair coloring processes: a) so-called permanent coloring, the function of which is to bring about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation; b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes. c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “makeup” process.

[0004] For this last type of coloring, it is known to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber.

[0005] However, the colorations obtained by this coloring method have the disadvantage of having low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and / or rubbing.

[0006] There therefore remains a need to have a process for coloring keratin fibers, particularly hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampooing and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing and / or rubbing, without damaging the hair.

[0007] Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampooing and various attacks that the hair may be subjected to, such as brushing, perspiration and / or friction, without damaging the hair.

[0008] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the present invention.

[0009] The subject of the present invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II) as described below, b) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one film-forming polymer, (c) a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is implemented before steps b) and c).

[0010] It has been found that the keratin fibers treated according to the process of the invention have good coloring. More particularly, the treated keratin fibers have a homogeneous and smooth colored sheath.

[0011] Furthermore, by using this process according to the invention, colored coatings are obtained on the keratin fibers which are resistant to shampooing and external aggressions which the keratin fibers may be subjected to such as brushing, rubbing and perspiration.

[0012] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

[0013] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. - the expression "between...and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from...to..." and may be substituted for it, and implies that the terminals are included. - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" within the meaning of the present invention, we mean a strictly higher, respectively strictly lower open interval, and therefore that the limits are not included. - By “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we mean in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone" means all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. - an “alkyl” radical designates a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent C1-C10 saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group, - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms. carbon, more preferably between 6 and 12 mono / bi / or tri / cyclic carbon atoms, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (CrC4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl”, as defined previously.

[0014] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also meant.

[0015] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0016] Composition A: The method according to the invention comprises at least the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II).

[0017] Alkoxysilanes of formula (I), (D or (II): According to the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (I') or (II) below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures.

[0018] The compounds of formula (I) or (I') are of the following formulas: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; Rb and Rc; identical or different represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1.

[0019] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane (APMDES), 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane and N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane.

[0020] APTES can for example be purchased from the company DOW CORNING under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE or from the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name SILSOFT A-1100 or from the company SHIN ETSU under the name KBE-903.

[0021] The compounds of formula (I) may also designate DYNASYLAN SIVO 210 or DYNASYLAN 1505 sold by the company EVONIK.

[0022] 3-ureidopropyltrimethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company Gelest under the name SIU9058.0.

[0023] N-cyclohexylaminomethyl triethoxysilane can for example be purchased from the company WACKER under the name GENIOSIL XL 926.

[0024] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (T), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of N,N-Bis[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]ethylenediamine (CAS RN: 74956-86-8), Nl,Nl-Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-l,2-ethanediamine (CAS RN: 457065-96-2), 1,2-ethanediamine, Nl-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-Nl-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]- (CAS RN: 1638528-78-5), and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as an ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.

[0026] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which Ra represents an ethoxy group, Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, A represents a propylene and r denotes an integer equal to 0.

[0027] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane of formula (I) is 3 - aminopropyltriethoxy silane (APTES).

[0028] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (!), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (I), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane in composition A ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 0.75% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0029] The compounds of formula (II) are of the following formula: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; provided that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom; - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of the following formula (IIa): , (Ha) in which Rn represents a hydroxy group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably methyl.

[0030] Among the alkoxysilanes of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures, mention may in particular be made of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS), methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), dimethyldiethoxysilane (DMDES), diethyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltriethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenylmethyldiethoxysilane, diphenyldiethoxysilane, benzyltriethoxysilane, benzylmethyldiethoxysilane, di-benzyldiethoxysilane, acetoxymethyltriethoxysilane and their mixtures.

[0031] TEOS can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® A or Dynasylan® A SQ.

[0032] MTES can for example be purchased from the company EVONIK under the name Dynasylan® MTES.

[0033] DMDES can for example be purchased from the company GELEST under the reference SID3404.0.

[0034] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - Ra represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy; or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group, preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms optionally substituted by an aryl group; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0; - Rf represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl.

[0035] More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), their oligomers and / or their mixtures are such that: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methoxy or an ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) are methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).

[0037] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II), its oligomers and / or their mixtures are present in composition A in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 75%, more preferably still from 3% to 45% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, always better still from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Preferably, when composition A comprises methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), the total content of methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) and / or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 75%, more preferably still from 3% to 45% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, still better still from 10% to 40% by weight, or even from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oligomer" means an alkoxysilane comprising at least 2 silicon atoms obtained by oligomerization or polymerization of the compounds of formula (I), (I') or (II); preferably 2 to 10 times, more preferably 2 to 5 times, the same unit of formula (I), (I') or (II).

[0039] Preferably, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (T) or (II), and their mixtures.

[0040] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from the compounds of formula (I), the compounds of formula (II), their oligomers, and their mixtures. More preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from the compounds of formula (I), the compounds of formula (II), and their mixtures.

[0041] Preferably, the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] More preferably, composition A comprises at least one first alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) or (I'), and at least one second alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II).

[0043] More preferably still, composition A comprises at least one first al- coxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (I), and at least one second al-coxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II).

[0044] Even better, composition A comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as first alkoxysilane, and at least one second alkoxysilane chosen from methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Most particularly preferably, composition A comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as first alkoxysilane, and methyltriethoxysilane as second alkoxysilane.

[0046] Preferably, the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably still from 10% to 70% by weight, better still from 20% to 60% by weight, even better still from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0047] Preferably, when the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, and mixtures thereof, the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably still from 10% to 70% by weight, better still from 20% to 60% by weight, even better still from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0048] Organic solvents: Preferably, composition A used in the process according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0049] As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] More preferably, composition A comprises ethanol.

[0052] Preferably, the total content of organic solvent(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0053] Preferably, composition A is anhydrous.

[0054] By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight. weight, better less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, it does not include water (0%).

[0055] In particular, said anhydrous composition does not include water added during its preparation, any residual water possibly present being able to come from the raw materials used during the preparation.

[0056] Composition B: The method according to the invention comprises at least the application to the keratin fibers of at least one composition B comprising at least one film-forming polymer.

[0057] Composition B is different from composition A previously described. Advantageously, composition B does not comprise the same ingredients as composition A.

[0058] Film-forming polymers: Composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer.

[0059] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophilic film-forming polymers, hydrophobic film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The term “hydrophobic polymer” means a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C strictly less than 1% by weight.

[0061] By “hydrophilic polymer” is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C greater than or equal to 1% by weight.

[0062] By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film.

[0063] According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophobic film-forming polymers.

[0064] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising: - film-forming polymers soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium. - film-forming polymers dispersible in an organic solvent medium, this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called “NAD (non-aqueous dispersions)”. - film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, this means that the polymer forms a water-insoluble phase, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, the polymer particles being able to be stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent. These polymer particles are often called "latex"; in this case, the composition must comprise an aqueous phase.

[0065] Among the hydrophobic film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures.

[0066] As hydrophobic film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers, polyisoprenes.

[0067] Non-ionic, amphoteric, anionic or cationic hydrophobic film-forming polymers may be used.

[0068] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, methacrylic acid copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylalcohol copolymers, vinylacetate copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.

[0069] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins; butadiene; isoprene; styrene; vinyl ethers, esters or amides; esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid containing a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl group, a C6-C10 aryl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0070] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may in particular be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers may be obtained from monomers chosen from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, isononyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl acrylate or phenyl, or mixtures thereof.

[0071] For example, we can cite the ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer marketed under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN® by the company Dow.

[0072] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may in particular be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which may be obtained from amides of acid monomers, mention may be made of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth)acrylamides, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0073] Mention may also be made of copolymers whose CTFA name (4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH as well as copolymers whose CTFA name is Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, such as the products sold under the name DERMACRYL® LT or DERMACRYL® 79 by the company NATIONAL STARCH. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from anionic copolymers.

[0074] Preferably, the anionic copolymers according to the invention are copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or (meth)acrylic acid esters containing a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C6 alkyl group, as described under the INCI name Acrylates.

[0075] Such copolymers are marketed by the company ROHM AND HAAS under the name Aculyn®33.

[0076] Copolymers of unsaturated ethylenic acid esters and alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used according to the invention. Such unsaturated ethylenic acid esters are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid, and such alkoxylated fatty alcohols are in particular steareth-20 and ceteth-20.

[0077] Examples include Aculyn®22 (Acrylates / steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn®28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Amino-acrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or SOLTEX OPT (acrylates / Ci2-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer) marketed by ROHM AND HAAS.

[0078] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can also be chosen from homo- Polymers and copolymers can be obtained from vinyl monomers. Examples include homopolymers or copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylca-prolactam, vinyl N-alkyl(Ci-C6) pyrroles, vinyl oxazoles, vinyl thiazoles, vinylpyrimidine or vinylimidazole.

[0079] Examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers that can be used in the invention include the copolymer of VP / vinyl laurate, VP / vinyl stearate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / hexadecene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V216, VP / eicosene marketed by ISP under the name Ganex V220, VP / triacontene or VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

[0080] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers which can be obtained from olefins such as ethylene, propylene, butenes, isoprene, butadienes.

[0081] In one embodiment, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer according to the invention is a block copolymer comprising at least one block consisting of styrene or styrene-derived units (for example methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene). The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, or even a multiblock, star or radial copolymer. The copolymer comprising at least one styrene block may further comprise, for example, an alkylstyrene block (AS), an ethylene / butylene block (EB), an ethylene / propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA) or a combination of these blocks.The copolymer comprising at least one block consisting of styrene or styrene-derived units may be a diblock or triblock copolymer, and in particular of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those marketed or manufactured under the name “Luvitol HSB” by the company BASF SE.

[0082] Preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinylalcohol (co)polymers, vinylacetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, acrylic acid ester (co)polymers, ethylene (co)polymers, acrylamide (co)polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0083] More preferably, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof.

[0084] According to another preferred embodiment, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from hydrophilic film-forming polymers.

[0085] Nonionic, anionic or cationic hydrophilic film-forming polymers may be used.

[0086] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be chosen from vinyl-pyrrolidone (co)polymers, vinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co)polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co)polymers.

[0087] Preferably, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, more preferably vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers.

[0088] Examples that may be mentioned are vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® K by the company BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 by the company BASF SE.

[0089] The PVP K30 polymer marketed by Ashland Inc. (ISP, POI Chemical) can also be used. PVP K30 is a cold water soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone polymer with CAS number 9003-39-8 and molecular weight 40,000 g / mol.

[0090] Other vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers suitable for the invention are marketed under the trade name LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 by the company BASF SE.

[0091] Mention may also be made of the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers marketed under the name Luviskol® by the company BASF SE, in particular the non-ionic polymers Luviskol® VA64 and Luviskol® VA73 (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers).

[0092] Mention may also be made of styrene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymers.

[0093] Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40.

[0094] Vinylpyrrolidone / DMAPA acrylate copolymers may be marketed by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Styleze CC-10.

[0095] As vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, mention may be made of copolymers obtained by reaction of N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one monomer chosen from N-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide or vinylca-prolactam.

[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) are selected from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof.

[0098] More preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid ester homopolymers or copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Even more preferably, the film-forming polymer(s) are chosen from ethylene homopolymers or copolymers; better still ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymers.

[0100] Preferably, the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 20% by weight, even better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0101] Preferably, the total content of ethylene homopolymer(s) and copolymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 20% by weight, even better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0102] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition B does not comprise alkoxysilane of formula (I), (!') or (II) as described previously.

[0103] Preferably, composition B comprises water.

[0104] Preferably, the total water content in composition B ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 98% by weight, more preferably still from 50% to 97% by weight, better still from 60% to 96% by weight, and even better still from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0105] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in the com position A, on the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; more preferably between 2 and 16; even more preferably between 5 and 15

[0106] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane and methyltriethoxysilane in composition A, to the total content of ethylene homopolymer(s) and copolymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; more preferably between 2 and 16; even more preferably between 5 and 15.

[0107] Composition A and / or B: Composition A and / or composition B used in the process according to the invention comprises (comprise) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Composition A and / or composition B used in the process according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one non-ionic, preferably non-associative, cellulose polymer.

[0108] Coloring agents: Composition A and / or composition B comprises (comprise) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0109] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures.

[0110] Preferably, composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) one or more pigments.

[0111] Preferably, the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments.

[0112] By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight (i.e. gram of pigment per liter of water).

[0113] The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the Kirk-Othmer encyclopedia of chemical technology and in the Ullmann encyclopedia of industrial chemistry.

[0114] They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.

[0115] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

[0116] The pigments may for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The pigment may be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, titanium oxide and stannic oxide (tin oxide).

[0118] The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment" we mean any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

[0119] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, qui-nacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0120] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0121] As an example, we can also cite organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: - COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); - COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); - ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); - COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); - VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); - COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); - COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

[0122] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These pigments composites may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

[0123] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0124] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0125] Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. We can also cite the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0126] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0127] The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. Special effect pigments are understood to mean pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

[0128] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as pearlescent pigments, interference pigments or glitter.

[0129] Examples of special effect pigments that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3), Syncrystal pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2-SnO2), and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2O3).

[0130] We can also mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the BASF company under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK company under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF company under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.;

[0131] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0132] Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

[0133] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum may also be considered.

[0134] The special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.

[0135] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.

[0136] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.

[0137] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

[0138] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

[0139] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.

[0140] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

[0141] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a metallic material.

[0142] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0143] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

[0144] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

[0145] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

[0147] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.

[0148] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

[0149] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 5 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 7 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 10 nm and 50 qm.

[0150] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

[0151] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium.In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C2o fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.

[0152] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

[0153] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.

[0154] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.

[0155] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.

[0156] The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially.

[0157] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

[0158] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

[0159] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0160] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.

[0161] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.

[0162] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment like the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment like the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment like the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in the coloring composition.

[0164] By "sub-micronic" or in English "sub-micronic" is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (pm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 pm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 pm.

[0165] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

[0166] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, different from the alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or formula (T) previously described in the application. Among the suitable dispersing agents, mention may be made of: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041, and Tego® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403, Tego® RC 1412, by Evonik.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes of formula (I) or of formula (T) previously described in the application and are cationic.

[0168] Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic, organic pigments or special effect pigments.

[0169] In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

[0170] In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.

[0171] In another variant of the invention, the pigments according to the invention are special effect pigments, preferably pearlescent pigments, more preferably colored pearlescent pigments. Direct dye

[0172] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

[0173] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic, for example cationic or anionic, or non-ionic.

[0174] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.

[0175] The direct dyes may be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes may be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.

[0176] A titre d’exemple de colorants acides on peut citer : Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2 ; Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow; Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38 ;

[0177] A titre d’exemple de colorants azo anioniques pyrazolones on peut citer : Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76Acid Yellow 17 ;

[0178] As an example of anthraquinone dyes, we can cite: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet No. 2 Acid Black 48;

[0179] Examples of nitrated dyes include: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; examples of dyes of formula (XXII') include: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

[0180] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0181] Examples of xanthene dyes include: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9.

[0182] Examples of indolic dyes include: Acid Blue 74;

[0183] Examples of quinoline dyes include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

[0184] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna may also be used.

[0185] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.

[0186] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition A and composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and composition B.

[0187] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition A ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0188] Preferably, the total content of coloring agent(s) in composition B ranges from 0.001% to 20%, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0189] Preferably, the total content of pigment(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.

[0190] Preferably, the total content of pigment(s) in composition A ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0191] Preferably, the total content of direct dye(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.

[0192] Preferably, the total content of direct dye(s) in composition A ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0193] Non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer: Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one non-ionic, preferably non-associative, cellulose polymer.

[0194] The non-ionic non-associative cellulosic polymer is different from the film-forming polymers mentioned above.

[0195] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic polymer” means any polysaccharide polymer having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by beta-1,4 bonds.

[0196] By "non-associative cellulose polymer", it is meant according to the invention that the cellulose polymers do not contain a C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0197] The non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymers may be selected from alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g. Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4)-alkyl(Ci-C4)celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL), and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0198] Preferably, the non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) are chosen from hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0199] More preferably, the non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) are hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).

[0200] More preferably, composition A and / or composition B comprises (include) hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).

[0201] In particular, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcellulose sold by the company Ashland Inc. under the trade name NATROSOL 250 HHR PC and hydroxypropylcellulose sold by the company Ashland Inc. under the trade name KLUCEL MF PHARM HY-DROXYPROPYLCELLULOSE.

[0202] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic cellulose polymer(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.

[0203] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic, non-associative cellulose polymer(s) in composition A and / or composition B ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A and / or composition B.

[0204] When composition A and / or composition B according to the invention comprises (comprise) water, the pH of composition A and / or composition B is preferably alkaline; more preferably, the pH of composition A and / or composition B is between 9 and 11.

[0205] For the purpose of adjusting the pH, composition A and / or composition B may further comprise an alkaline agent or an acid.

[0206] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition B according to the invention comprises an alkaline agent.

[0207] The pH of the compositions is measured at room temperature.

[0208] As an alkaline agent, mention may be made of ammonia, alkanolamines, and / or basic amino acids.

[0209] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylaminomethane.

[0210] More preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine and / or 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.

[0211] For the purposes of the invention, the term "amino acid" means organic compounds having two functional groups: both a carboxyl group -COOH or carboxylate and an amine group -NH2, the amine group optionally being methylated, i.e. in the form -NR2 or N+R3, where at least one R=CH3.

[0212] Preferably, the amino acid(s) are chosen from aminocarboxylic acids such as alpha-aminocarboxylic acid.

[0213] By "basic amino acid" is meant amino acids having an isoelectric point greater than 7.

[0214] Preferably, the basic amino acid(s) are chosen from arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine, more preferably arginine and / or lysine.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment, composition A and / or composition B may comprise an inorganic alkaline agent, preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and / or potassium carbonate.

[0216] Composition A and / or composition B may also comprise acidifying agents to adjust the pH. Preferably, the acidifying agents are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid and / or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Composition A and / or composition B according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0218] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, oxidizing agents, thickening agents other than the polymers previously described, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, dispersants, solubilizing agents, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, fillers, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Composition A and / or composition B may be applied in particular to keratin fibers such as hair in the form of a spray, cream, gel, or mousse.

[0220] According to a particular embodiment, composition A according to the invention is an anhydrous liquid or an anhydrous gel.

[0221] According to a particular embodiment, composition B according to the invention is a dispersion.

[0222] According to one embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane as described previously and at least one pigment as described previously.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises at least one alkoxysilane of formula (I) as described previously, at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described previously, and at least one pigment as described previously.

[0224] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition A according to the invention comprises 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), and at least one pigment.

[0225] According to a preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof, and at least one non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymer as described above.

[0226] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition B according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof, and at least one non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymer chosen from hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0227] Process for coloring keratin fibers The process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition A b) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition B, different from composition A, (c) a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is implemented before steps b) and c).

[0228] Preferably, composition A and composition B are compositions for coloring keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0229] Compositions A and B according to the invention can be used on dry or wet keratin fibers, as well as on all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the keratin fibers are washed before the application of compositions A and B according to the invention.

[0231] The application of compositions A and B according to the invention to keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush or with the fingers.

[0232] Composition A and composition B may be applied simultaneously or sequentially. Preferably, composition A and composition B are applied sequentially.

[0233] According to the invention, step a) is implemented before steps b) and c).

[0234] Steps a) and b) of applying compositions A and B according to the invention to the keratin fibers, is generally implemented at room temperature (between 15 and 25°C).

[0235] After application of composition A or composition B to the keratin fibers, it is preferable to have a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A or composition B on said fibers.

[0236] According to a particular embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers such as hair comprises: o) the preparation of composition A according to the invention by mixing a first composition A' and a second composition A” in which the first composition A' comprises: - at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (!) as described above, their oligomers and / or their mixtures, and - at least one alkoxysilane of formula (II) as described above, its oligomers and / or their mixtures and the second composition A' ' includes: - at least one non-associative non-ionic cellulose polymer as described above, and - at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and their mixtures, a) the application to said keratin fibers of composition A according to the invention, o') optionally a leave-on time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular of 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably of 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition A on said fibers, b) the application of composition B according to the invention comprising at least one film-forming polymer as described previously, o”) optionally a exposure time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes, in particular 20 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes of composition B according to the invention on said fibers, and c) a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers.

[0237] According to the invention, preferably there is no step of rinsing the keratin fibers after step a) and before step b) or c).

[0238] The term “rinsing step” means the application of water to the keratin fibers.

[0239] After step b) of application of composition B according to the invention, the kéra fibers tinics may optionally be subjected to a step d) of drying the keratin fibers, without the addition of water vapor, using for example a hair dryer.

[0240] Drying step d) can be carried out for a period of between 20 seconds and 2 minutes.

[0241] Step d) of drying can be carried out using absorbent paper, a hair dryer, a hair dryer or even in the open air.

[0242] Preferably, drying step d) is carried out using a hair dryer at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly at a temperature greater than 30°C and less than 100°C.

[0243] The optional drying step d) does not apply water vapor to the keratin fibers, and constitutes a separate and different step from step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers.

[0244] According to a preferred embodiment, step d) of drying the hair in the air or with a hair dryer is carried out before step c). According to a particular embodiment, step c) is carried out on previously dried hair.

[0245] After applying composition B according to the invention to the keratin fibres, one can wait at least 10 seconds, preferably at least 30 seconds before step d) of drying the keratin fibres.

[0246] The method according to the invention comprises a step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers, such as the hair.

[0247] Preferably, step c) is carried out before and / or after step b). In other words, step c) is carried out after step a) and before step b), or step c) is carried out after step b), step b) being carried out after step a) according to the invention.

[0248] According to a particular embodiment, step c) is implemented after step a) and after step b).

[0249] Step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers can be carried out using a heating tool delivering water vapor.

[0250] According to the invention, during step c) of the method according to the invention, the application of heat and the application of water vapor are carried out simultaneously on the keratin fibers.

[0251] Preferably, the heating tool delivering water vapor is a steam iron such as a Steampod® iron.

[0252] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “iron” means a device for heating keratin fibers, bringing said fibers into direct contact with the heating device.

[0253] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "steam irons" means irons which include a device which emits water vapor.

[0254] As examples of steam irons that can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made of all types of steam iron, and in particular, in a non-limiting manner, those described in US patent 11,470,938.

[0255] Step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers can be carried out by successive separate touches of a few seconds, or by progressive movement or sliding along the keratin fibers, in particular along human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0256] Preferably, step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers is carried out in continuous movement from the root to the tip of the keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, in one or more passes, in particular in one to twenty passes.

[0257] Advantageously, the speed of each pass of the heating tool delivering water vapor can range from 0.5 cm to 15 cm of keratin fibers / second; preferably from 0.5 cm to 5 cm of keratin fibers / second; more preferably from 1 cm to 3 cm of keratin fibers / second.

[0258] Advantageously, the flow rate of steam delivered by the heating tool is between 0.5g and 10g of water vapor / minute; preferably between 0.8g and 5g of water vapor / minute.

[0259] Preferably, during step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers, the temperature applied to the keratin fibers is between 150°C and 230°C; more preferably between 180°C and 220°C; and even more preferably between 200°C and 210°C.

[0260] During step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers, a mechanical action on the locks can be exerted such as combing, brushing, or passing the fingers through.

[0261] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0262] Examples: In the examples below, temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and corresponds to room temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise stated.

[0263] The following compositions are prepared (in g / 100g of raw material as is) [Tables 1] Composition A' 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)(1) 24 Triethoxymethylsilane (MTES - CAS # 2031-67-9)® 72 Ethanol Qsp 100

[0264] [Tables2] Composition A” Pigment (3) 10 Hydroxypropylcellulose (4) 4 Ethanol Qsp 100

[0265] [Tables3] Composition B Ethylene / sodium acrylate copolymer (5) 15 Hydroxyethylcellulose (6) 2 Water Qsp 100

[0266] (1) Sold under the trade name KBE-903 by the company Shin Etsu;

[0267] (2) Sold under the trade name TRIETHOXYMETHYLSILANE by Sigma-Aldrich Company;

[0268] (3) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TIN OXIDE sold under the trade name SYNCRYSTAL SILK SILVER by the company Eckart;

[0269] (4) Sold under the trade name KLUCEL™ PHARM HYDROXY- PROPYLCELLULOSE by Ashland Company;

[0270] (5) Sold under the trade name ECOSMOOTH SATIN by the company Dow Corning (25% active ingredient in water);

[0271] (6) Sold under the trade name NATROSOL™ 250 HHR CS by the Ashland Company. Protocols:

[0272] PI Protocol: Compositions A' and A” are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 to obtain composition A.

[0273] Composition A according to the invention is applied by finger to 6 strands M1 to M6 of natural dry hair that is 90% white, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair.

[0274] The hair strands are left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The hair strands are not rinsed.

[0275] Composition B is then applied with the finger at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair, on the 6 strands of hair previously treated with composition A.

[0276] The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

[0277] The strands of hair are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.

[0278] Of the 6 locks of hair treated with compositions A and B according to the invention, 3 locks of treated hair undergo an application of heat and water vapor (invention), and 3 other locks of treated hair M4 to M6 undergo an application of heat using the same tool but without the use of water vapor (comparative).

[0279] The application of heat and water vapor to the strands of hair is carried out using a steam iron (3 passes per strand, from the root to the tip), respectively: - Ml: the Steampod® 2 at 210°C and delivering 3.5g of water vapor / min; - M2: the Steampod® 3 at 210°C and delivering 0.8g of water vapor / min; - M3: Démeliss® at 210°C and delivering 5g of water vapor / min; - M4: the Steampod® 2 at 210°C, without adding water vapor to the hair; - M5: the Steampod® 3 at 210°C, without adding water vapor to the hair; and - M6: Démeliss® at 210°C, without adding water vapor to the hair.

[0280] For strands M4 to M6, the Steampod® 2, the Steampod® 3 and the Démeliss® do not deliver water vapor to the hair. For strands M4 to M6, these are used as a straightening iron.

[0281] Protocol P2: Compositions A' and A” are mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 to obtain composition A.

[0282] Composition A according to the invention is applied with the finger to 2 strands M' 1 and M' 2 of natural dry hair that is 90% white at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair.

[0283] The hair strands are left for 5 minutes at room temperature. The hair strands are not rinsed.

[0284] Then, on the 2 locks of hair treated with composition A according to the invention, the lock of treated hair M' 1 undergoes an application of heat and water vapor (invention), and the lock of treated hair M'2 undergoes an application of heat but without the use of water vapor (comparative).

[0285] The application of heat and water vapor to the lock of hair M' 1 is carried out using a steam iron of the Steampod® 2 type at 210°C and delivering 3.5g of water vapor per min (3 passes per lock, from the root to the tip).

[0286] For the M'2 strand, the Steampod® 2 does not deliver water vapor to the hair. For the M'2 strand, it is used as a straightening iron at 210°C.

[0287] Composition B is then applied with the finger at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of hair, on the 2 locks of hair M' 1 and M' 2 previously treated. by composition A, as well as by heat and water vapor.

[0288] The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

[0289] The strands of hair are then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.

[0290] The strands of hair treated M1 to M6 according to the PI protocol or M' 1 and M'2 according to protocol P2 are left at room temperature for 24 hours.

[0291] The locks of hair thus colored are subjected to shampooing in order to evaluate the tenacity (remanence, resistance) of the coloring obtained by shampooing, according to the shampooing protocol described below. Shampoo protocol:

[0292] The following shampoo is carried out on all the strands obtained after according to the PI protocol or the P2 protocol above.

[0293] The hair strands are washed using a standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux), at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair.

[0294] The hair strands are then rinsed, combed and dried with a hairdryer. Results:

[0295] The color persistence of the highlights after shampooing was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0296] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0297] The persistence of the color is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 1 shampoo according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color is persistent / resistant to shampoos.

[0298] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation: ae - ■' V

[0299] In this equation, for the persistence of the coloring to shampoos, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after having undergone shampooing, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.

[0300] The results obtained with wicks M1 to M6 of protocol 1 are indicated in the table below:

[0301] [Tables4] Steam Wicks Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE M4 (Comparative if) Without 0 42.70 19.49 13.40 - Without 1 48.41 15.71 15.38 7.13 Ml (Invention) With 0 42.67 19.08 14.53 - With 1 44.10 18.95 17.09 2.94 M5 (Comparative if) Without 0 39.44 24.22 17.68 - Without 1 41.17 17.60 14.84 7.41 M2 (Invention) With 0 38.37 22.54 15.32 - With 1 37.84 21.41 15.97 1.41 M6 ( Compurut if) Without 0 43.39 19.06 15.43 - Without 1 47.50 15.60 15.83 5.39 M3 (Invention) With 0 41.57 21.17 15.37 - With 1 42.60 21.54 18.11 2.95

[0302] The results obtained with the wicks M' 1 and M'2 of protocol 2 are indicated in the table below:

[0303] [Tables5] Steam Wicks Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE M'2 (Compurut if) Without 0 37.64 21.57 15.53 - Without 1 45.85 13.82 14.91 11.31 M'1 (Invention) With 0 36.59 20.21 14.53 - With 1 39.53 18.01 14.86 3.69

[0304] The locks of hair colored according to the invention by the PI protocol or the P2 protocol with an application of heat and water vapor, have low AE values compared to the locks of hair colored by the PI protocol or the P2 protocol with an application of heat but without the application of water vapor to the keratin fibers.

[0305] The colored coatings of the keratin fibers obtained with the coloring process according to the invention comprising a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers (steam iron), have better persistence to shampooing than the colored coatings of the keratin fibers obtained with the comparative coloring process comprising a step of applying heat without adding water vapor to the keratin fibers (straightening iron).

Claims

Claims

1. Process for coloring keratin fibers comprising at least the following steps: a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition A comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (I), (!') or (II) below, their oligomers and / or their mixtures: in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb and Rc; identical or different represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group, it being understood that if Ra does not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb and Rc cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; - Rd and Re, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl group having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aminoalkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH - Q represents a carbonyl group (CO); - r denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1; in which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; - Rb represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular an ethyl group; - Rc represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as a methyl, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by an aryl group; an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as an ethoxy; or an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; provided that if Ra and Rc do not represent an alkoxy group, then Rb cannot represent a hydrogen atom - k denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably ranging from 0 to 3 - Rf represents a hydrogen atom; an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; or a group of formula (IIa) below: z (Ha) in which Rn represents a hydroxy group (OH); an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, b) a step of applying to the keratin fibers at least one composition B, different from composition A, comprising at least one film-forming polymer; c) a step of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers; it being understood that: - composition A and / or composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; and - step a) is carried out before steps b) and c).

2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkoxysilane(s) in composition A are chosen from said compounds of formula (I), said compounds of formula (II), their oligomers, and their mixtures.

3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that composition A comprises at least one first alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) or (I') and at least one second alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II); more preferably composition A comprises at least one first alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formulas (I) and at least one second alkoxysilane chosen from said compounds of formula (II).

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, or an alkoxy group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, preferably an ethoxy; - Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethyl; - Rd and Re, identical, represent a hydrogen atom or Rd denotes a hydrogen atom and Re denotes a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical such as cyclohexyl; - A independently represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 linear or branched carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S, NH or a carbonyl group (CO), preferably NH; - r denotes an integer equal to 0.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) of formula (I) in composition A are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) for which: - Ra represents an ethoxy group, - Rb and Rc are identical and represent an ethyl, - Rd and Re represent a hydrogen atom, - A represents a propylene, and - r denotes an integer equal to 0.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compound(s) of formula (II) in composition A are chosen from those for which: - Ra represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rb represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl; - Rc represents an alkoxy group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 2 carbon atoms such as methoxy or ethoxy - k denotes an integer equal to 0; - Rf represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as a methyl or an ethyl;preferably methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) or methyltriethoxysilane (MTES).;

7. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A ranges from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably still from 20% to 60% by weight, better still from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer(s) in composition B are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) homopolymers, acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and mixtures thereof; preferably homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of alkoxysilane(s) in composition A, to the total content of film-forming polymer(s) in composition B is between 1 and 20; preferably between 2 and 16; more preferably between 5 and 15.

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A and / or composition B further comprises at least one non-ionic non-associative cellulose polymer chosen from hydroxy(Ci-C4) alkylcelluloses, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A is anhydrous.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A further comprises at least one organic solvent; preferably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof; more preferably ethanol; and even more preferably at least one organic solvent in a total content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight. weight, better from 5% to 55%, and even better from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight in composition A.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a step d) of drying the keratin fibers, carried out after said step b) of applying at least one composition B to the keratin fibers.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that during step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers, the temperature applied to the keratin fibers is between 150°C and 230°C; preferably between 180°C and 220°C; and more preferably between 200°C and 210°C.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step c) of applying heat and water vapor to the keratin fibers is carried out by means of a heating tool delivering water vapor, preferably a steam iron.

Citation Information

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