Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or its derivatives and at least one phosphonic derivative

A composition combining Fagaceae extracts, α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acid, and phosphonic derivatives effectively treats oily skin by reducing sebum production and improving skin texture, addressing hyperseborrhea and skin imperfections without irritation.

FR3158647A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024000955
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-01-31
Publication Date
2025-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current treatments for oily or oily-prone skin and associated aesthetic skin defects, such as hyperseborrhea, are not entirely satisfactory due to side effects like irritation and lack effective ingredients to reduce sebum production and skin imperfections.

Method used

A composition comprising an extract of the Fagaceae family, specifically Fagus sylvatica buds, combined with α-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acid, β-hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, and a phosphonic derivative like phytic acid, effectively inhibits sebocyte lipid production, reducing sebum secretion and improving skin texture.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides desquamating properties, enhances skin radiance, reduces pore size, and improves skin uniformity and softness while addressing oily skin and associated defects without irritation.

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Abstract

Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or its derivatives and at least one phosphonic derivative The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) (I) where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, as well as the use of said composition for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one p-hydroxy acid or its derivatives and at least one phosphonic derivative Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in particular skin care, more particularly the care of oily or oily-prone skin as well as the aesthetic skin defects associated with such skin.

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I). The invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular a non-therapeutic method, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular a non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects. Prior art

[0003] Sebum normally constitutes a moisturizing agent of the epidermis and can be involved in the homeostasis of the epidermis, and in particular in the proliferation and / or differentiation of epidermal cells.

[0004] It is the natural product of the sebaceous gland which constitutes an annex of the pilosebaceous unit. It is essentially a more or less complex mixture of lipids. Classically, the sebaceous gland produces squalene, triglycerides, aliphatic waxes, cholesterol waxes and, possibly, free cholesterol (Stewart, ME, Semin Dermatol 11, 100-105(1992)). The action of bacterial lipases converts a variable proportion of the triglycerides formed into free fatty acids.

[0005] The sebocyte constitutes the competent cell of the sebaceous gland. The production of sebum is associated with a terminal differentiation program of this cell. During this differentiation, the metabolic activity of the sebocyte is essentially focused on the biosynthesis of lipids (lipogenesis) and more specifically on the neosynthesis of fatty acids.

[0006] Oily or hyperseborrheic skin is characterized, in particular, by excessive secretions and excretions of sebum. Classically, a sebum level greater than 200 pg / cm2 measured at the forehead is considered characteristic of such oily skin. Such skin is often associated with dilated pores. The appearance and / or visibility of pores is also a characteristic of oily skin. The shine of the skin is also linked to the dilation of pores, hence the interest in finding active ingredients to reduce the size of dilated pores, a manifestation felt as skin imperfections or aesthetic defects.

[0007] Such skin is also often associated with a thick skin texture, an alteration of the skin surface which may be a consequence of the lack of desquamation, such as a state of roughness of the skin, an irregular relief, manifestations felt as skin imperfections or aesthetic defects.

[0008] To combat hyperseborrhea, various compounds have already been proposed which, when applied topically to the skin, are capable of reducing lipogenesis at the level of sebocytes and consequently limiting the production of sebum. The treatments currently available for hyperseborrhea are not entirely satisfactory, particularly with regard to the side effects frequently associated with them, such as irritation with certain topicals such as retinoids and benzoylperoxides.

[0009] There therefore remains a need for new active ingredients capable of exerting a beneficial cosmetic action on oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects, in particular a beneficial cosmetic action on skin imperfections. Statement of the invention

[0010] The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

[0011] The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a composition comprising an extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, such as a Fagus sylvatica bud extract, two α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, a β-hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, and a phosphonic derivative such as phytic acid, allows better inhibition of the production of lipids by sebocytes in comparison with each of the compounds taken separately or with such a composition in the absence of lactic acid. The composition according to the invention thus proves to be useful for effectively preventing and / or treating oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects, in particular with skin imperfections.

[0012] The composition according to the invention also has desquamating properties.

[0013] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the uniformity of the complexion, the softness of the skin; to reduce the size of the pores of the skin. Summary of the invention

[0014] The present invention therefore has as its first subject a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I)

[0015] [Chem.l] (I)

[0016] where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

[0017] The second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, to treat and / or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0018] A third object of the invention is the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0019] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows. Definitions

[0020] The term “keratin materials” means the skin of the body or face, the lips, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the nails, and the hair, of a human being.

[0021] By "skin" is meant the entire skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, hands or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0022] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0023] As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific condition and / or the elimination of said symptoms as well as the complete disappearance of the condition in question.

[0024] In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" designate the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

[0025] By “topical use or application” is meant a use or application on the surface of the keratin materials considered, preferably on the surface of the skin considered. Detailed description Composition

[0026] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and / or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I):

[0027] [Chem.l] (I)

[0028] where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

[0029] Extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family

[0030] The Fagaceae family, formerly Cupuliferae, groups together dicotyledonous plants; it includes 7 to 9 genera, the best known being Castanea (chestnut), Fagus (beech), Quercus (oak).

[0031] More specifically, the genus Fagus (beech) includes around ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe is Fagus sylvatica.

[0032] Advantageously, said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus, more preferably, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, Fagus sylvatica, even better said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvaticaL.

[0033] Advantageously, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a part of the plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, preferably buds.

[0034] More preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica.

[0035] Even more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.

[0036] Said extract can be obtained from a preliminary stabilization step, in particular by Ultra High Frequencies (UHF) of the harvested plant or part of the plant, preferably buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefosse SA, corresponding to American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), entitled: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.

[0037] This stabilization step thus guarantees that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.

[0038] Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare an extract according to the invention.

[0039] As extracts suitable for the invention, mention may be made of aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent extracts.

[0040] By aqueous solvent is meant any solvent consisting entirely or partly of water. Mention may be made of water itself, hydro-alcoholic solvents in any proportion or solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may be made in particular of ethanol.

[0041] Extraction can be done at room temperature, cold or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.

[0042] An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the Fagaceae family, preferably a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the genus Fagus, even better a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the species Fagus sylvatica, in a cold aqueous solution, then a second step of removing the suspended particles from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution resulting from the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.

[0043] The extract obtained can then be lyophilized by any conventional lyophilization methods. This gives a powder which can be used directly or mixed in a suitable solvent before use.

[0044] For example, we can cite an extract of beech bud (Fagus sylvatica) such as that marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0045] Said extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a-hydroxy acids

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “at least two α-hydroxy acids” means at least two distinct α-hydroxy acids.

[0047] Advantageously, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, even better said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid.

[0048] It being understood that the composition according to the invention may comprise other α-hydroxy acids, in addition to said two α-hydroxy acids.

[0049] Mention may in particular be made of glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL.

[0050] In addition, mention may be made of lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC ULTRAPURE (90% lactic acid in water) by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS.

[0051] Said at least two α-hydroxy acids may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, even better from 0.03% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] More preferably, when said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid, then: - glycolic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - lactic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. P-hydroxy acid and / or its derivatives

[0053] Advantageously, the [3-hydroxy-acids] are chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (II):

[0054] [Chem.2] CK .OH / Rb R a.,..

[0055] (He) in which: the radical Ra designates: - an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; - an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which can be conjugated; - an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

[0056] said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Rb is a hydroxyl group;

[0057] as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base and their mixtures.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes: a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds;

[0059] said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0060] as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0061] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy 5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts.

[0062] The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. More particularly, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used. N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is offered under the name MEXORYL SAB® by CHIMEX.

[0063] Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia. Among organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, and EP A-570,230.

[0064] Preferably, said at least one [3-hydroxy-acid] is salicylic acid such as that marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL.

[0065] Said [3-hydroxy-acid(s) and / or its derivatives, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Phosphonic derivative

[0066] By alkyl radical is meant a linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

[0067] Preferably, the alkyl radical is not substituted.

[0068] More preferably, the alkyl radical is linear saturated cyclic.

[0069] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.

[0070] Preferably, n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7. Preferably, n = 6.

[0071] Preferably, the phosphonic derivatives of formula (I) are such that R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7 such as 6.

[0072] Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.

[0073] As an example, we can cite the compound sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS

[0074] under the name “PHYTIC ACID”.

[0075] Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Physiologically acceptable environment

[0076] In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0077] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0078] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0079] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of an aqueous phase and a non-emulsified fatty phase, in particular in the form of a two-phase.

[0080] The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s).

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, even better from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, even better from 80% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] .

[0085] Among the organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature - 25°C) we may mention alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, and glycerin.

[0086] The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance such as one or more oil(s).

[0089] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0091] For the purposes of the present invention, “oil” means a liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0092] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0093] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0094] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0095] By “fluorinated oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0096] By "apolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil which does not comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

[0097] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon oils mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0098] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.

[0099] Volatile oils

[0100] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0101] According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapor pressure is less than 5 Pa, more particularly the flash point of which is less than 90°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 1 Pa, even more preferably the flash point of which is less than or equal to 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 5 Pa and even more preferably the flash point of which is less than 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 100 Pa.

[0102] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils such as:

[0103] hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular: - branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example marketed by INEOS, more preferably isododecane; - linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (Cl3) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF; - volatile C5-C12 cyclic, non-aromatic alkanes; - short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example, sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA; - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R' 1-O-C(O)-O-R'2 in which R'1 and R'2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably R' 1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which RI and R2, which may be identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable that RI and R2 are identical. As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group. As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.

[0104] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile silicone oils such as:

[0105] silicone oils comprising in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the DM-FLUID-2cs reference marketed by SHIN-ETSU or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane such as the XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE reference marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

[0106] Non-volatile oils

[0107] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

[0108] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0109] Among the non-volatile oils, we can cite: - non-volatile fluorinated oils which may in particular be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752; - the non-volatile silicone oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as their mixtures.

[0110] These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures; - non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in C14-C30, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the INEOS Oligomers company, the products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures; polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be chosen from: • saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, liquid at room temperature (25°C), preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; • triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; as examples, mention may in particular be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pothnarron, pumpkin, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter;as well as their mixtures; ; • linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10. Examples of such esters include, for example, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene diheptanoate glycol, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate,isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; and mixtures thereof; , hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, benzoic acid 2-phenyl ethyl ester, butyl octyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyl tetradecanoate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with the INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer fatty acid and dimer diol such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; synthetic ether of formula R1-O-R2 in which RI and R2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for RI and R2 to be identical. As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.As a branched alkyl group, there may be mentioned a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As a cyclic alkyl group, there may be mentioned a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group., dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof. Among the non-volatile ether oils, we can cite dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference CETIOL OE marketed by BASF; . carbonates of formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, identical or different, represent a C4 to C12 alkyl chain, and preferably from C6 to C10, linear or branched; the carbonate oils can be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by the company BASF, di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, marketed under the name TEGOSOFT DEC® by the company Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 Ail from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; di neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate; • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name); • higher C6-C26 fatty acids that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; and • their mixtures.

[0111] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W). The proportion of fatty substances in the emulsion can range from 1 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0113] The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.01% by weight of emulsifier and / or co-emulsifier, preferably less than 0.001% by weight of emulsifier and / or co-emulsifier relative to the total weight of the composition, even better the composition according to the invention is completely free (0%) of emulsifier and / or co-emulsifier.

[0115] The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, even better from 4.0 to 5.5. Additives

[0116] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidant agents, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0119] It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled solution, a dispersion of the lotion type, preferably two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type, or even in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or even a stick. It may be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency. It may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase product, even more preferably in the form of a two-phase lotion.

[0121] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "two-phase" or "two-phase composition" means a composition consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest. They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material to which it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0122] Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the topical application and administration envisaged.

[0123] A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or even of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0124] Said composition is preferably implemented, within the framework of a use or a treatment method according to the invention, by topical route.

[0125] The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may in particular be made of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

[0126] The composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to the skin, preferably the composition according to the invention is not rinsed after being applied to the skin. Use and Method of Treatment

[0127] The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be facial or body care products.

[0128] The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

[0129] These compositions can therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.

[0130] According to another of its objects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, to treat and / or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0131] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and / or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and / or associated aesthetic skin defects.

[0132] A cosmetic implementation of the invention is therefore only aimed at aesthetic defects of the skin, and therefore does not exert a therapeutic effect.

[0133] The present invention aims at a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care implementation of a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition.

[0134] The methods and uses implemented within the framework of the present invention also relate to the desquamation of the skin, the improvement of the radiance of the skin, the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, the improvement of the softness of the skin, the reduction of the roughness of the skin, the reduction of the microrelief of the skin, the reduction of the size of the pores of the skin.

[0135] By “treatment” we mean a non-therapeutic treatment capable of producing an aesthetic effect without preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

[0136] Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless otherwise specified.

[0137] Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "between x and y" or "ranging from x to y" corresponds to an inclusive range, that is to say that the values x and y are included in the range.

[0138] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” must be understood as being synonymous with “one or more” unless otherwise specified.

[0139] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, the % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.

[0141] The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as appropriate, cited by chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

[0142] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Examples

[0143] Example 1: Evaluation of the inhibition of lipid production by sebocytes A. Compounds tested#

[0144] The compounds tested alone are listed in Table 1 and the mixtures in Table 2.

[0145] [Tables 1] Tested compounds Stock solution Tested concentrations Fa gus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATTEFO SSE)* 10% in the test medium 0.003% Salicylic acid** 10% in the test medium 0.002% Glycolic acid*** 10% in the test medium 0.02% Phytic acid**** 10% in the test medium 0.003% Lactic acid***** 10% in the test medium 0.018%

[0146] * beech bud extract (Fagus sylvatica) marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE at 1.2% by weight of active ingredient in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

[0147] **salicylic acid marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0148] ***glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL at 70% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0149] ****phytic acid sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS_under the name “PHYTIC ACID” at 50% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0150] *****lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS at 90% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0151] [Tables2] Combinations Mixture tested Concentrations tested Mixture 1 (outside the invention) Fagus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATT EFOSSE) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid (F.sylavatica ex. + SAc + GAc + PAc) 0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0. 003% Mixture 2 (according to the invention) Fagus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATT EFOSSE) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid + Lactic acid (F.sylavatica ex. + SAc + GAc + PAc + LAc) 0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0. 003%:0.018% A. Materials and Methods#

[0152] Sebocytes were seeded in a 96-well plate and cultured for 24 hours in culture medium. The medium was then replaced with a test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds, the combinations, or the reference compound (1 μM Olumacostat glasaretil) and the cells were pre-incubated for 4 hours. Then, the inducer (lipogenic mixture containing vitamin C, vitamin D3, insulin and calcium) was added and the cells were incubated for 7 days. Halfway through, i.e. after 3 days of incubation, half of the medium was removed and the treatments were renewed (including stimulation of the lipogenic mixture). An unstimulated control condition was performed in parallel. All experimental conditions were performed in n = 3.

[0153] After incubation, the cells were rinsed, fixed and permeabilized. The lipid droplets contained in the cells were labeled using a specific fluorescent lipid probe Bodipy® (Invitrogen, ref. D3922) labeling mainly neutral lipids. In parallel, the cell nuclei were colored using a solution of Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide, Sigma, ref. B1155). Image acquisition was performed using the INCell 2200 Analyzer™ (GE Healthcare). Ten pictures were taken per well for each labeling (x20 objective lens) and the labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity normalized to the total number of cells (Digital Data Integration with Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).

[0154] Statistical analysis was performed using GrapPad Prism software. A. Results

[0155] The results are presented in tables 3 and 4 above.

[0156] [Tableaux3] Traitement CoœæRtratïcn Production de lipides (Mo^nne| ET P ■ témorQ w Contrôle non stimule - 4 0 <0fG001 àj 's E y?î s & 4*1 TJ £ QU Témoin - 100 3 - OlumacostM glasaretil 1 78 7 0,0301 LÀO 02% 84 15 0,1144 F. sytoïïŒ ex, + Sac + GAc + PAc EN t*5 o di OO oo pO O È» O 56 s 0,0002 E SÿtoïïGS ex. * Sac * GAc * PAC .+ LAc* 003 : »2 : 0.02: 0,003 : 0.018 33 8 <0f0G01

[0157] [Tableaux4] Traitement Concentration Production de lipides (Moyenne] ET P Tefnssn] Contrôle non stimulé - 13 5 ai ha ys 4s Ê a Témoin - 100 s - Qiumaœstat giasaretii 1 67 il G,W7 SAc 0,002¾ 85 3 0,1785 E syfvodw ex,. 107 25 0.5548 GAt Û.&2H 89 7 0.3307 PAc 0,..053¾

[0158] Conclusion: mixture no. 2 according to the invention (Fagus sylvatica bud extract + salicylic acid + glycolic acid + phytic acid + lactic acid, has a more powerful inhibitory effect (69% of inhibition, see Table 3) compared to each of the compounds tested alone or to mixture No. 1 not including lactic acid. Thus, these results show that the composition according to the invention has better performance, in particular a synergistic effect to inhibit the production of sebum by sebocytes, and is therefore useful for the prevention and / or treatment of oily skin.

[0159] Example 2: Clinical evaluation of a composition according to the invention A. Evaluated composition#

[0160] The two-phase lotion type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for a person skilled in the art.

[0161] [Tables5] Composition according to the invention - Two-phase lotion grams per 100 grams (%) Fatty phase 3 Aqueous phase 97

[0162] [Tableauxô] Composition of the fatty phase INCI name / Chemical name grams per 100 grams (%) C15-19 ALKANE qs 100 VEGETABLE OIL 10.034 ANTIOXIDANT 0.3 SOOTHING ACTIVE 6.66

[0163] [Tables?] Composition of the aqueous phase INCI name / Chemical name grams per 100 grams (%) WATER qs 100 GLYCOLS 4.2 PH ADJUSTER qs pH 4.8 SALICYLIC ACID** 0.206 PHYTIC ACID**** 0.31 LACTIC ACID***** 1.8319 GLYCOLIC ACID*** 2.0618 ANTIOXIDANT 0.21 FAGUS SYLVATICA BUD EXTRA CT* 3.1 DESQUAMANT AGENT 0.0001

[0164] * beech bud extract (Fagus sylvatica) marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE at 1.2% by weight of active ingredient in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

[0165] **salicylic acid marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

[0166] ***glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL at 70% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0167] ****phytic acid sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS_under the name “PHYTIC ACID” at 50% by weight of active ingredient in water.

[0168] *****lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS at 90% by weight of active ingredient in water. A. Results

[0169] The composition according to the invention of the two-phase lotion type was evaluated on the skin condition of 60 women of Asian origin of phototypes II to V, applied twice a day for 6 weeks (42 days) on the bare skin of the face. The evaluation is carried out using a clinical rating: Scale rated in 10 points (0: None to 9: severe).

[0170] P-values were adjusted using the Bonferroni method for 3 comparisons to protect against type I error (alpha = 0.05). i. Scale rated in 10 points at D42

[0171] [Tables8] J0 Mean ± SD t-dev J42 Mean ± SD t-dev J42 - J0 Mean ± SD Skin tone uniformity (n = 61) visual (0: very equal to 9: uneven) 4.36 ± 0.78 3.80 + 0.87 -0.56 + 0.56 Adjusted p-value (Bonferroni adjustment) Wilcoxon (English only) s;p <o,oooi % de variation - 12.8 % Douceur de la peau : Tex ture (n=61 )tactile 4,72 ± 0,66 4,02 + 0,67 -0,70 + 0,53 Valeur de p ajustée (Ajustement Bonferroni) Wilcoxon (en anglais seulement) s;p<o,oooi (0: very smooth to 9: not smooth) % change - 14.9% Skin radiance (n=62) visual (0: very radiant to 9: dull) 4.16 + 0.71 3.35 + 0.83 -0.81+0.70 Adjusted p-value (Bonferroni adjustment) Wilcoxon (English only) s;p <o,oooi % de variation -19.4% Visibilité des pores (n=6 0) taille et nombre (0 : pas de pore visible à 9 : pore très visible) 4,22 + 0,98 3,82+1,27 -0,40 + 0,64 Valeur de p ajustée (Ajustement Bonferroni) Wilcoxon (en anglais seulement) s; P<0,0001 % de variation - 9.5 %

[0172] J, : statistically significant decrease in scores

[0173] S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

[0174] NS: statistically insignificant comparison with p>0.05 i. Counting red and brown marks, at D42

[0175] [Tables9] J0 Mean ± t-standard deviation J42 Mean + t-standard deviation J42 - J0 Mean + SD Red and brown marks (n = 46) 9.11 + 5.40 7.48 + 5.47 -1.63 + 2.74 Adjusted p-value (Bonferroni adjustment) Student SiP = 0.0004 % variation - 17.9%

[0176] J, : statistically significant decrease in scores

[0177] S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

[0178] NS: statistically insignificant comparison with p>0.05

[0179] The results of these analyses show a statistically significant improvement in the uniformity of the complexion (more even complexion), the softness of the skin (softer skin), the radiance of the skin (more radiant complexion), the visibility of pores (less visible pores), the presence of red and brown marks (reduced red and brown marks) at D42 compared to D0.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one [3-hydroxy acid] and / or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus, more preferably, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata, Fagus engleriana, Fagus grandifolia, Fagus hayatae, Fagus japonica, Fagus longipetiolata, Fagus lucida, Fagus orientalis, Fagus sinensis, Fagus sylvatica, even better said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvaticaL.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a part of a plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica, even more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least one [3-hydroxy-acid] is salicylic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said [3-hydroxy-acid(s) and / or its derivative(s) is / are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably said at least two α-hydroxy acids are selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, even better said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, even better from 0.03% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which: i. glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and ii. lactic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is such that R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7 such as 6.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said phosphonic derivative is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Citation Information

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