COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES FOR PROCESSING KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for processing keratinous substrates, such as skin and / or hair, where the compositions comprise (a) at least one alkali carbonate, (b) at least one polyol, (c) water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (d) at least one fatty acid. The at least one carbonate and the at least one polyol are present in the composition as an associated network. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratinous substrates, such as skin or hair. BACKGROUND

[0002] Consumers wish to improve the appearance and / or feel of their skin and / or hair. For example, people with dry skin or hair may want to moisturize and / or hydrate their skin or hair to improve its appearance and feel. Attributes desired by consumers include, for example, deep and lasting hydration and / or moisturization without a greasy feel. In addition, better conditioning or long-lasting cosmetic benefits are also desired.

[0003] Current products and technologies aim to hydrate and / or moisturize the skin and hair by superficially coating the surface with humectants and / or oils. The humectants remain on the surface of the skin or hair, acting as a conduit between the skin or hair and the external environment. However, while the objective is to increase the moisture content of the skin or hair, the opposite effect, such as dry skin or dry, frizzy hair, can often occur due to an imbalance of water between the skin or hair fibers and the external environment. Furthermore, the superficial coating can be easily removed by rinsing or washing, so long-term hydration and its associated benefits are not achieved.

[0004] The present inventors have now discovered, in an astonishing way, a synergistic combination of ingredients which unexpectedly offers excellent penetration and moisture retention benefits to keratinous substrates such as skin and hair, the benefits of which are long-lasting.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good carbon index. natural and / or naturally derived materials, and more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. SUMMARY

[0007] It has been discovered in an astonishing and unexpected manner that the compositions and processes according to the disclosure can increase and / or improve the moisture content of keratinous substrates, can reduce the moisture loss of keratinous substrates and / or can offer beneficial cosmetic properties to keratinous substrates.

[0008] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to compositions for the treatment of keratinous substrates, such as skin and / or hair, the compositions comprising (a) at least one alkali carbonate, (b) at least one polyol, (c) water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, (d) at least one fatty acid and (e) optionally at least one pH corrector, wherein the at least one alkali carbonate and the at least one polyol are present in the composition in the form of an associated network. In preferred embodiments, the molar ratio of the alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) in the composition and / or network ranges from less than 1:3 to about 1:50, for example from about 1:4 to about 1:20, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:15, more preferably from about 1:7 to about 1:13, more preferably still from about 1:9 to about 1:11, or is most preferably about 1:10.

[0009] Preferably, at least one alkali carbonate is selected from sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, zinc carbonate, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the alkali carbonate(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of potassium carbonate. In various embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or an associated network may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, more preferably still from about 0.75% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] Optionally, at least one polyol may have a molar mass less than about 500 g / mol, preferably less than about 400 g / mol, more preferably less than about 300 g / mol, more preferably still less than about 200 g / mol, most preferably less than about 150 g / mol. For example, the polyols may be selected from sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, isomalt, glycerol, and combinations of two or more of these in preferred embodiments. In particularly Preferred polyol(s) comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycerol. In various embodiments, the total amount of polyols in the composition and / or associated network ranges from about 1% to about 25%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, more preferably from about 4% to about 13%, most preferably from about 5% to about 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] Preferably, at least one fatty acid has a carbon chain portion of four to twenty-eight carbon atoms, such as eight to twenty-six carbon atoms, such as twelve to eighteen carbon atoms. Preferably, this carbon chain portion comprises uninterrupted carbon atoms. According to certain preferred embodiments, the fatty acid is selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepenic acid, oleic acid, eladic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoeladic acid, alpha linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, eruvic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their combinations.According to some other preferred embodiments, the fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepia, oleic acid, and combinations thereof. Lauric acid and oleic acid are particularly noteworthy. In various embodiments, the total amount of fatty acid in the composition and / or associated network ranges from about 0.25% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 4%, and more preferably still from about 1% to about 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one alkali carbonate, preferably including potassium carbonate, (b) at least one polyol, preferably including glycerol, (c) water, (d) at least one fatty acid, and (e) at least one pH adjuster, and optionally at least one additional component selected from the active agents and auxiliary components, wherein the at least one alkali carbonate and the at least one polyol are present in the composition in the form of an associated network, and the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) in the network ranges from about 1:4 to about 1:20, for example from about 1:5 to about 1:15, preferably from about 1:7 to about 1:13, more preferably from about 1:9 to about 1:11, or most preferably is about 1:10.

[0013] For example, in preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one alkali carbonate, (b) at least one polyol, (c) water, (d) at least one fatty acid, and (e) at least one pH adjuster, and optionally at least one additional component selected from the active agents and auxiliary components, in which the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) are present in the composition in the form of an associated network; the total amount of alkali carbonate(s) ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, most preferably from about 0.75% to about 3%; the total quantity of polyol(s) ranges from about 1% to about 25%, preferably from about 2% to about 20%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, most preferably from about 4% to about 12%;the total amount of fatty acid ranges from about 0.25% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 4%, more preferably still from about 1% to about 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition; the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) ranges from about 1:4 to about 1:20, such as from about 1:5 to about 1:15, preferably from about 1:7 to about 1:13, more preferably from about 1:9 to about 1:11, or most preferably from about 1:10; and the pH of the composition is greater than about 7, preferably ranging from about 7 to about 14, from about 7 to about 12, from about 7.5 to about 10, or from about 7.5 to about 9.

[0014] The disclosure also relates to processes for treating keratinous substrates such as skin and / or hair using the compositions according to the disclosure, for example to increase the moisture content of keratinous substrates, provide better penetration and / or retention of moisture, provide revitalizing benefits and / or provide cosmetic benefits such as smooth texture, shine, reduction of dryness, etc., to keratinous substrates.In some embodiments, a composition as disclosed may be applied to the keratinous substrate, optionally left on the keratinous substrate for a period ranging from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 48 hours, preferably from approximately 1 minute to approximately 24 hours, more preferably from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 12 hours, most preferably from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 9 hours, and optionally the removal of the composition after the application period, for example by rinsing or wiping the keratinous substrates. The keratinous substrates may optionally be cleaned after the application period. For example, in an embodiment where the keratinous substrates are keratin fibers such as hair, the hair may be cleaned with shampoo after the application period.

[0015] The disclosure also relates to processes for preparing compositions for treating keratinous substrates, the processes comprising (i) preparing a simplex solution by combining at least one alkali carbonate, at least one polyol, and optionally water, wherein the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) in the simplex solution ranges from less than 1:3 to about 1:50, for example from about 1:4 to about 1:20, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:15, more preferably from about 1:7 to about 1:13, most preferably from about 1:9 to about 1:11, to form an associated network of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s); (iii) optionally heating the simplex solution; (iii) the addition of at least one solvent selected from water and / or non-aqueous solvents to the simplex solution to form the composition; (iii) the addition of at least one fatty acid and (iv) the optional addition of at least one pH adjuster to the composition.The processes in some preferred embodiments include heating the simplex solution in (ii) to a temperature from about 35 °C to about 100 °C, preferably from about 50 °C to about 100 °C, most preferably from about 75 °C to about 90 °C, and subsequently cooling the simplex solution. The processes in some preferred embodiments include adding at least one pH adjuster to the composition to achieve a pH from about 7 to about 14, such as from about 7 to about 11, preferably from about 7.5 to about 10.5, more preferably from about 8 to about 10. The processes in some preferred embodiments include adding at least one additional component selected from the active agents and auxiliary components to the composition.

[0016] The disclosure also relates to compositions for treating keratinous substrates prepared by the composition preparation processes, as well as processes for treating keratinous substrates with compositions prepared by the processes, for example, to increase the moisture content of keratinous substrates, provide better moisture penetration and / or retention, provide revitalizing benefits and / or provide cosmetic benefits such as smooth texture, shine, reduced dryness, etc., to keratinous substrates. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0017] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratinous substrates, such as skin and hair. The compositions and processes disclosed provide increased moisture and moisture retention to the keratinous substrates, which has proven surprisingly and unexpectedly durable. The disclosure also relates to manufacturing processes for the compositions. COMPOSITIONS

[0018] The compositions according to this disclosure comprise (a) at least one alkali carbonate, (b) at least one polyol, (c) water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent, (d) at least one fatty acid, and (e) optionally at least one pH adjuster. The compositions may optionally comprise at least one active agent and / or at least one auxiliary component.

[0019] The alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) are present in the composition as an associated network, and therefore the compositions comprise an associated network of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s). As used herein, the terms "network" and "associated network" are used interchangeably to signify that the components in the composition are associated with one another rather than being present in the composition separately. The association of components in a network may be chemical or physical. For example, the components may be hydrogen-bonded to one another. However, it should be understood that the compositions according to the disclosure may also include one or more of the network components when such component(s) is / are not part of the network.For example, compositions may include one or more networks of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s), and compositions may include one or more alkali carbonates and / or polyols separated from the network(s). Alkaline carbonates

[0020] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one alkali carbonate. In some embodiments, the compositions and / or the associated network may comprise more than one alkali carbonate, for example at least two alkali carbonates, at least three alkali carbonates, etc.

[0021] In various embodiments, at least one alkali carbonate may be selected from alkali carbonates, alkali bicarbonates, or combinations thereof. For example, alkali carbonates may be selected from sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, zinc carbonate, or combinations of two or more of these. Alkaline bicarbonates may, for example, be selected from sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the alkali carbonate comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of potassium carbonate.

[0022] In various embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%, and from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%. % to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 1.25% to approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from approximately 0.2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.3% to approximately 2.4%, from approximately 0.4% to about 2.3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.2%, from about 0.6% to about 2.1%, from about 0.7% to about 2%, from about 0.8% to about 1.9%, from about 0.9% to about 1.8%, from about 1% to about 1.7%, from about 1.1% to about 1.6%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network may range from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, as well as from about 0.75% to about 1.75%, or from about 1% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] In other preferred embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network may be in the range of approximately 4% to approximately 20%, approximately 4% to approximately 18%, approximately 4% to approximately 16%, approximately 4% to approximately 14%, approximately 4% to approximately 12%, approximately 4% to approximately 10%, approximately 5% to approximately 20%, approximately 5% to approximately 18%, approximately 5% to approximately 16%, approximately 5% to approximately 14%, approximately 5% to approximately 12%, approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 20%, from approximately 6% to approximately 18%, from approximately 6% to approximately 16%, from approximately 6% to approximately 14%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 7% to approximately 20%, from approximately 7% to approximately 18%, from approximately 7% to approximately 16%, from approximately 7% to approximately 14%, from approximately 7% to approximately 12%, from approximately 7% to approximately 10%, from approximately 8% to approximately 20%, from approximately 8% to approximately 16%, from approximately 8% to approximately 14%, from approximately 8% to approximately 12%, from approximately 8% to approximately 10%, from approximately 9% to approximately 18%, from about 9% to about 16%, from about 9% to about 14%, from about 9% to about 12%, from about 9% to about 10%, or may be about 8%, about 9%, about 10%, about 11%, about 12%, about 13% or about 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in preferred embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates ranges from about 5% to about 18%, more preferably from about 6% to about 15%, most preferably from about 8% to about 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0024] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polyol. In some embodiments, the compositions and / or the associated network may comprise more than one polyol, for example at least two polyols, at least three polyols, etc.

[0025] The term "polyol," as used herein, refers to an organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, for example, at least three hydroxyl groups, such as trehalose. In various embodiments, polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, such as from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms. Optionally, the polyols are selected from alkane polyols. In some embodiments, the polyols are not selected from sugar alcohols or their derivatives.

[0026] In various embodiments, the polyols that may be chosen include polyols with a molar mass less than about 500 g / mol, for example less than about 450 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 350 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, less than about 250 g / mol, less than about 200 g / mol, less than about 175 g / mol, less than about 150 g / mol, less than about 125 g / mol, or less than about 100 g / mol.

[0027] By way of example only, polyols that may be selected include glycerol (glycerin), sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, isomalt, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or a mixture of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the solvent comprises, consists mainly of, or consists of glycerol.

[0028] In various embodiments, the total amount of polyols present in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from approximately 1% to approximately 25%, as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 14%, from approximately 1% to approximately 13%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 11%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 25%, from approximately 2% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 14%, from approximately 2% to approximately 13%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 11%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 25%, from approximately 3% to approximately 20%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%from approximately 3% to approximately 14%, from approximately 3% to approximately 13%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 11%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 25%, from approximately 4% to approximately 20%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 14%, from approximately 4% to approximately 13%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 11%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7% from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 25%, from approximately 5% to approximately 20%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 14%, from approximately 5% to approximately 13%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5% to approximately 11%, from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%of approximately 5% to approximately 7% by weight, or of approximately 5% to approximately 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of polyols in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from approximately 5% to approximately 12%, such as from approximately 5.5% to approximately 11%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6.5% to approximately 9.5%, from approximately 7% to approximately 9%, or from approximately 8% to approximately 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In various embodiments, the total amount of polyols ranges from about 50% to about 95%, such as from about 55% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 85%, from about 55% to about 80%, from about 55% to about 75%, from about 55% to about 70%, from about 60% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 85%, from about 60% to about 80%, from about 60% to about 75%, from about 60% to about 70%, from about 65% to about 90%, from about 65% to about 85%, from about 65% to about 80%, from about 65% to about 75%, from about 65% to about 70%, from about 70% to about 90%, from about 70% to about 85%, from about 70% to about 80%, from about 70% to about 75%, from about 75% to about 90%, from about 75% to about 85%, from about 75% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of polyols may range from about 60% to about 90%, more preferably from about 70% to about 85%, most preferably from about 75% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In certain preferred embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose quantities of alkali carbonates and polyols such that the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) present in the composition and / or in the associated network is less than 1:3 and greater than approximately 1:50, for example, ranging from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:50, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:45, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:40, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:35, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:30, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:25, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:20, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:15, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:10, from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:50, from about 1:5 to about 1:45, from about 1:5 to about 1:40, from about 1:5 to about 1:35, from about 1:5 to about 1:30, from about 1:5 to about 1:25, from about 1:5 to about 1:20, from about 1:5 to about 1:15, or from about 1:5 to about 1:10.In some preferred embodiments, the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) may range from about 1:4 to about 1:20, from about 1:5 to about 1:15, from about 1:7 to about 1:13, or from about 1:9 to about 1:11, for example a molar ratio of about 1:4, about 1:5, about 1:6, about 1:7, about 1:8, about 1:9, about 1:10, about 1:11, about 1:12, about 1:13, about 1:14, about 1:15, about 1:16, about 1:17, about 1:18, about 1:19, or about 1:20, or may be in a range having any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds. Fatty acids

[0031] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one fatty acid. In some embodiments, the compositions and / or the associated network may comprise more than one fatty acid, for example, at least two fatty acids, at least three fatty acids, etc. The term "fatty acid," as used here, refers to a compound having at least one carboxylic acid and having at least one aliphatic (carbon) chain that is unsaturated or saturated with respect to hydrogen atoms. In some embodiments, only one aliphatic (carbon) chain is present. In some embodiments, only one acid group A carboxylic acid is present. In some embodiments, only one aliphatic (carbon) chain is present and only one carboxylic acid is present. In some embodiments, the aliphatic (carbon) chain is unbranched.

[0032] The portion of the carbon chain of the fatty acid can be from four to twenty-eight carbon atoms, such as from eight to twenty-six carbon atoms, such as from twelve to eighteen carbon atoms.

[0033] The number of carbon atoms in the portion of the carbon chain identified above may be uninterrupted. By uninterrupted, it is understood that in the compound, the identified number of carbon atoms has no non-carbon atoms between them. According to other embodiments, the portion of the carbon chain is both uninterrupted and unbranched.

[0034] According to certain embodiments, the fatty acid is selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepenic acid, oleic acid, eladiic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoeladic acid, alpha linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, eruvic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their combinations.

[0035] According to some other embodiments, the fatty acid is selected from a group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepia, oleic acid and combinations thereof. Oleic acid and lauric acid are particularly noteworthy.

[0036] In various embodiments, the total amount of fatty acids in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, as from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.25% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.75% to about 10%, from about 0.75% to about 9%, from about 0.75% to about 8%, from about 0.75% to about , 7%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.75% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 1.25% to approximately 10% from about 1.25% to about 9%, from about 1.25% to about 8%, from about 1.25% to about 7%, from about 1.25% to about 6%, from about 1.25% to about 5%, from about 1.25% to about 4%, from about 1.25% to about 3%, from about 1.25% to about 2.5%, from about 1.25% to about 2%, or from about 1.25% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network ranges from about 0.2% to about 2.5%, from about 0.3% to about 2.4%, from about 0.4% to about 2.3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.2%, from about 0.6% to about 2.1%, from about 0.7% to about 2%, from about 0.8% to about 1.9%, from about 0.9% to about 1.8%, from about 1% to about 1.7%, from about 1.1% to about 1.6%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or in the associated network may range from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or from about 0.75% to about 1.75%, or from about 1% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. pH adjusters

[0037] The compositions according to this disclosure have a pH greater than or equal to 7, such as a pH in the range of approximately 7 to approximately 14, approximately 7 to approximately 13, approximately 7 to approximately 12, approximately 7 to approximately 11, approximately 7 to approximately 10, approximately 7 to approximately 9, approximately 7.5 to approximately 14, approximately 7.5 to approximately 13, approximately 7.5 to approximately 12, approximately 7.5 to approximately 11, approximately 7.5 to approximately 10, approximately 7.5 to approximately 9, approximately 7.5 to approximately 10.5, or approximately 8 to approximately 10. For example, the pH of the composition may be approximately 7.5, approximately 8, approximately 8.5, approximately 9, approximately 9.5, about 10, about 10.5, about 11, about 11.5, about 12, about 12.5, about 13, about 13.5 or about 14, or may be in a range having any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.Consequently, where appropriate, the compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one pH adjuster. In various embodiments, the pH adjuster is chosen from compounds that can lower the pH of the composition, for example, inorganic acids. or commonly used organics such as citric acid, lactic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, hydrochloric acid, etc. Solvents

[0038] The compositions according to this disclosure comprise at least one solvent selected from water and / or non-aqueous solvents. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise water in an amount ranging from about 60% to about 98%, from about 70% to about 95%, or from about 80% to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one non-aqueous solvent. If present, the non-aqueous solvent(s) may be selected from, for example, monoalcohols, polyols other than those described above, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicone oils, liposomes, laminar lipid materials, or any mixture thereof. Active agents

[0040] Optionally, the compositions may comprise one or more active agents. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least two active agents, at least three active agents, etc. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one active agent.

[0041] As other non-limiting examples, vitamins and vitamin derivatives or probiotics, as well as their salts, may be included. By way of example only, compositions may include panthenol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof.

[0042] By way of further examples, phenolic and polyphenolic compounds may be included. For example, lignans, humates, flavones, chalcones, tannins, phenolic acids, catechins, anthocyanins, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, or phenylpropanenoids may be chosen. Some non-limiting examples are baicalin, resveratrol, ferulic acid, ellagic acid, and salicylic acid.

[0043] Other examples of facultative active agents include acid salts (e.g., sodium citrate and / or sodium lactate), ceramides, cholesterols, sphingosines, C-glycosides, sugars (e.g., monosaccharides such as glucose, fructose and / or pentose, disaccharides such as sucrose, maltose and / or lactose, etc.), nucleic acids, α- and α-hydroxy acids, botanical extracts, silicates, aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES), dihydroxyacetone (DHA), peptides, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In certain embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more active agents selected from vitamins, vitamin derivatives, prodrugs of vitamins, peptides, amino acids or their salts, aminosulfonic acids or their salts, acid salts, polyphenolic compounds, moisturizing agents or combinations of two or more thereof.

[0045] If present, the total quantity of the active agent(s) and / or the quantity of individual active agents may be in the range of about 0.001% to about 10%, such as about 0.001% to about 9%, about 0.001% to about 8%, about 0.001% to about 7%, about 0.001% to about 6%, about 0.001% to about 5%, about 0.001% to about 4%, about 0.001% to about 3%, about 0.001% to about 2%, about 0.001% to about 1%, about 0.001% to about 0.5%, from approximately 0.001% to approximately 0.1%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1%, from approximately 7% %, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in various embodiments, the total quantity of active agent(s) and / or the quantity of individual active agents may be less than approximately 10%, less than approximately 9%, less than approximately 8%, less than approximately 7%, less than approximately 6%, less than approximately 5%, less than approximately 4%, less than approximately 3%, less than approximately 2%, or less than approximately 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of individual active agents and / or the quantity of individual active agents may range from approximately 0.001% to approximately 5%, such as, for example, from approximately 0.001% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.005% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 0.01% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0046] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Useful auxiliary components include, but are not limited to, clays (e.g., kaolinite, bentonite, hectorite, smectite, etc.), dyes and / or pigments for coloring the composition, rheology modifiers (thickeners), humectants, structuring agents, gloss enhancers, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, opacifiers, sunscreens, etc. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one auxiliary component.

[0047] Optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15%, such as from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The compositions according to the disclosure may be in any form, such as a serum, an emulsion, a gel, a liquid, etc., and may be leave-on or rinse-off compositions. II. PROCESSES

[0049] The disclosure also relates to processes for treating keratinous substrates with compositions as disclosed. For example, the processes may include processes for increasing or improving moisture in keratinous substrates, processes for reducing moisture loss in keratinous substrates, processes for revitalizing keratinous substrates, etc. The processes may also be processes for treating hair with compositions as disclosed, for example by increasing or improving moisture in hair fibers, reducing moisture loss from hair fibers, revitalizing hair, such as by improving smooth texture, manageability (e.g., fewer flyaways) and hair strength, reducing frizz and / or improving curl definition and / or the evenness of curly hair.

[0050] Typically, the processes for treating keratinous substrates with compositions according to the disclosure include applying the composition to the keratinous substrates, and optionally removing the composition after a certain period of time, for example by rinsing or wiping the composition off the keratinous substrate.The period of time during which the composition is left on the keratinous substrate ("resting period" or "setting period") can vary, but can range from about 30 seconds to about 48 hours, such as about 30 seconds to about 24 hours, about 30 seconds to about 12 hours, about 30 seconds to about 6 hours, about 30 seconds to about 2 hours, about 30 seconds to about 1 hour, about 30 seconds to about 45 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 30 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 20 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 15 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 10 minutes, about 30 seconds to about 5 minutes, or about 30 seconds to about 2 minutes.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the rest period can range from about 1 minute to about 2 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, or from about 15 minutes to about 40 minutes, such as about 30 minutes. In other preferred embodiments, . The resting period can range from about 1 hour to about 24 hours, from about 2 hours to about 12 hours, or from about 3 hours to about 9 hours; for example, the composition can be left on the keratinous substrate overnight.

[0051] Optionally, the composition can be applied to the keratinous substrate and left on the keratinous substrate until the keratinous substrate is subsequently washed off as part of ordinary personal hygiene. As such, in certain embodiments, the composition can be considered a "pre-wash" or "pre-shampoo" treatment composition.For example, an exemplary and non-limiting process according to the disclosure includes applying a composition according to the disclosure to the skin or hair and leaving it on for a period, for example, for a period ranging from about 1 minute to about 24 hours, such as from about 5 minutes to about 12 hours, or from about 15 minutes to about 9 hours, for example, overnight, or from about 1 minute to about 2 hours, from about 5 minutes to about 1 hour, from about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, or from about 15 minutes to about 40 minutes, such as about 30 minutes, and then washing the skin or hair.

[0052] Surprisingly, the compositions and processes for treating keratinous substrates according to the disclosure have proven extremely effective not only in increasing the moisture content of keratinous substrates, but also in maintaining their moisture content, for example, by reducing the amount of moisture lost from the keratinous substrates. This would be the result of an unexpected synergistic interaction of the components described herein. Furthermore, although the compositions are alkaline, they do not damage the keratinous substrates, for example, keratinous fibers such as hair. This would also be considered a result of the synergistic interaction of the components described herein.

[0053] Without being bound by theory, it is thought that one or more fatty acids can stabilize hair proteins, resulting in a high denaturation temperature.

[0054] The processes for manufacturing compositions according to the disclosure therefore include the preparation of an associated network of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s). For example, a simplex solution of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) may be prepared, which may include added water, but is preferably prepared with a minimal amount of added water, or even without added water. Without being limited to any one theory, it is believed that by preparing a simplex solution as described, the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) form a hydrogen-bonded network.

[0055] For example, a simplex solution of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) can be prepared by combining the alkali carbonate(s), the polyol(s), and optionally a small amount of water, and stirring until the alkali carbonate dissolves. and that the network forms. In various embodiments, the amount of water in the simplex solution can be up to about 10%, for example, can range from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, based on the total weight of the simplex solution. In some embodiments, no water is added to the simplex solution. Optionally, one or more of the active agents described above may also be included in the simplex solution, and the active agent(s) may therefore also be present in the network.

[0056] The process may optionally take place at room temperature or may be elevated, for example, may go from about 22 °C to about 25 °C, from about 25 °C to about 100 °C, from about 35 °C to about 100 °C, from about 50 °C to about 100 °C, from about 75 °C to about 100 °C, from about 25 °C to about 90 °C, from about 35 °C to about 90 °C, from about 50 °C to about 90 °C, or from about 75 °C to about 90 °C.

[0057] Preferably, the simplex solution is prepared by including quantities of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) such that the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) present in the simplex solution, and therefore the lattice, is less than 1:3 to greater than approximately 1:50, for example, ranging from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:50, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:45, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:40, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:35, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:30, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:25, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:20, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:15, from approximately 1:4 to approximately 1:10, from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:50, from about 1:5 to about 1:45, from about 1:5 to about 1:40, from about 1:5 to about 1:35, from about 1:5 to about 1:30, from about 1:5 to about 1:25, from about 1:5 to about 1:20, from about 1:5 to about 1:15, or from about 1:5 to about 1:10.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the molar ratio of the alkali carbonate(s) to the polyol(s) in the simplex solution may range from about 1:4 to about 1:20, from about 1:5 to about 1:15, from about 1:7 to about 1:13, or from about 1:9 to about 1:11, for example a molar ratio of about 1:4, about 1:5, about 1:6, about 1:7, about 1:8, about 1:9, about 1:10, about 1:11, about 1:12, about 1:13, about 1:14, about 1:15, about 1:16, about 1:17, about 1:18, about 1:19, or about 1:20, or may be within a range using any of the above values ​​as bounds. upper and lower. Preferably, the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s) in the simplex solution is about 1:10.

[0058] In some embodiments, the simplex solution comprises water and the molar ratio between the alkali carbonate(s) and water ranges from about 10:1 to about 1.10, such as from about 5:1 to about 1.5, for example from about 4:1 to about 1:4, from about 3:1 to about 1:3, from about 2.5:1 to about 1,2,5, from about 1:2 to about 2:1, from about 1.75:1 to about 1:1,75, from about 1.5:1 to about 1:1,5, from about 1.25:1 to about 1:1,25, from about 1.2:1 to about 1:1,2, or from about 1.1:1 to about 1:1,1. For example, the molar ratio of alkali carbonate(s) to water can be approximately 5, 4.5, 4, 3.5, 3, 2.5, 2, 1.9, 1.8, 1.7, 1.6, 1.5, 1.4, 1.3, 1.2, 1.1, 1, 0.9, 0.8, 0.7, 0.6, or 0.5, or it can be within a range using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds. Optionally, if present, the amount of water in the simplex solution is such that the molar ratio of alkali carbonate(s) to water is approximately the same, that is, approximately 1:1.

[0059] Once the alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) network is formed, the network can be included in the compositions as disclosed above. For example, a simplex solution of alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) can be prepared as described here, and the simplex solution can then be added to or diluted with water and / or a non-aqueous solvent to form a composition as disclosed. The pH of the composition can optionally be adjusted to the target pH by adding a pH adjuster. Several alkali carbonate(s) and polyol(s) networks can be included in the compositions, where the alkali carbonate(s) and / or polyol(s) in each network can be identical or different from those in the other network(s). Additional components such as one or more active agents and / or auxiliary components can also be optionally included in the compositions.However, a qualified person will ensure that no components or quantities of components are included in the simplex solution and / or composition that could decrease the network interaction of the alkali carbonate(s) and the polyol(s).

[0060] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It is understood that all definitions in this document are provided only within the meaning of this disclosure.

[0061] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" (or "comprehension", "having" and "include") are used in their open, non-limiting sense.

[0062] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural, unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms "a," "an," "the," "the," and "at least one" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expressions "one or more" and "at least one" are interchangeable and expressly include individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Similarly, the expression "one of his / her / their salts" also refers to "his / her / their salts."Thus, when the disclosure refers to "at least one item selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts, or mixtures thereof", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, one or more salts of A, one or more salts of B, one or more salts of C, one or more salts of D, one or more salts of E and one or more salts of F may be included.

[0063] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either one or the other.

[0064] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) can be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, from A + D, from A + C + D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components can be used individually or in any of their combinations.

[0065] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of conciseness, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value given that would be reasonably deduced by a person skilled in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for that value.

[0066] All ranges and quantities indicated herein are assumed to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound, and all bounds are assumed to be inclusive unless expressly stated otherwise. Thus, a range from "1% to The phrase "10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc., are understood to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly stated, unless expressly stated otherwise. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is understood to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "approximately". The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Unless expressly stated otherwise, "approximately" means + / - 5%. Similarly, all range boundaries are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2:1.

[0067] As the expression is used here, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is expected that this component will in fact be present in the composition, namely, present in an amount greater than 0%.

[0068] All quantities and ratios herein are given on the basis of the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise stated. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages herein are given by weight of active ingredient.

[0069] As used herein, the expression "application of a composition to keratinous substrates" and its variations are intended to refer to the contact of keratinous substrates, including hair and skin, with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also mean the contact of keratinous substrates with an effective amount of the composition.

[0070] As used herein, the term “salts” throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.

[0071] As used in this document, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not significantly affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions as disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not significantly affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions as disclosed). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or no amount of the specified material. Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "substantially free" of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The expression "substantially free" or "substantially free," as used here, may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

[0072] As used herein, the term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of keratinous substrates, such as skin and / or hair.

[0073] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process presented herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly state an order to be followed by its steps, or where it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred. EXAMPLES

[0074] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1# - Simplex Solutions

[0075] The following three simplex solutions were prepared to form three different associated networks of potassium carbonate and glycerol.

[0076] Example AI - Simplex solution with water

[0077] Potassium carbonate, glycerol, and deionized water were mixed in a molar ratio of approximately 1:10:1 while stirring at a temperature of approximately 80 °C until the potassium carbonate dissolved and the solution was substantially homogeneous. The solution was allowed to cool to room temperature. It was observed that the solution was very viscous.

[0078] Example IB - Simplex solutions without water

[0079] Two separate simplex solutions were prepared. Potassium carbonate and glycerol were mixed in a molar ratio of approximately 1:10 while stirring at a temperature of approximately 80 °C until the potassium carbonate dissolved and the solution was substantially homogeneous. The solution was allowed to cool to room temperature. The procedure was repeated, but the molar ratio between potassium carbonate and glycerol was approximately 1:5. In both procedures, the solutions were observed to be very viscous. Example 2 - Compositions

[0080] The inventive and comparative compositions below have been prepared.

[0081] Comparative example Cl was prepared by diluting the simplex solution prepared in example IA with water and a pH corrector to obtain a composition containing 1.3% potassium carbonate and 8.7% glycerol, with the remainder being water and pH corrector.

[0082] Inventive composition 2A according to the disclosure was prepared by diluting the simplex solution prepared in Example IA with water and a pH adjuster, adding fatty acid, and mixing until uniform. This mixture was then diluted with water to obtain a composition with 1.3% potassium carbonate, 8.7% glycerol, and 1.5% oleic acid. Inventive composition 2B was prepared similarly, but sufficient lauric acid was added to give a composition with 1.3% potassium carbonate, 8.7% glycerol, and 1.0% lauric acid. Example 3# - Instrumental Tests

[0083] The following tests were carried out to evaluate the mechanical integrity of the fibers and the thermal integrity of the fibers conferred to the hair by inventive and comparative compositions. Example 3A-1

[0084] Two strands of curly hair (CP3-4) were rinsed, washed, rinsed again, and left to air dry overnight under ambient conditions. Equal amounts (approximately 1 gram per gram of hair) of water, composition 2A, composition 2B, or composition Cl were applied to separate strands and massaged into the hair. The strands were left for 30 minutes under ambient conditions. Then, the strands were shampooed, rinsed, and left to air dry overnight under ambient conditions.

[0085] Mechanical Integrity of Fibers: The treated hair fibers were then subjected to a tensile test using a Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT). The dry tensile strength was evaluated using the Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT 675), available from Dia-Stron Ltd of Andover, New Hampshire. Fifty fibers were used per test. A tensile speed of 40 mm / min was used. The cross-sectional area of ​​the fibers was measured using a double-ended FDAS 770 method. The Young's modulus (elasticity, MPa) was determined from the test.

[0086] The results of the Young's Module evaluation are presented in Table 1 below:

[0087] [Tables 1] Composition Young's Modulus (MPa) Water 3602 Cl 3700 2A 3582 2B 3622

[0088] A lower Young's modulus reflects softer and more flexible hair fibers. Example 3A-2

[0089] Thermal integrity of the fibers: The treated hair fibers were then subjected to a differential scanning calorimetry test using the DSC 2500 with TRIOS software from TA Instruments of New Castle, Delaware. Each sample was tested four times (n = 4).

[0090] Seven to eight (7-8) mg of finely cut hair fibers were added to the large volume stainless steel tray and 50 ft of deionized water were added, the tray was then sealed using a crimping gauge.

[0091] The DSC trays were equilibrated overnight, then the samples were heated from 50 °C to 180 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / min.

[0092] The Trios software provides the denaturation temperature; the Td value in degrees C, which represents the crosslinking density of the hair matrix, the increase in Td indicates the interaction of the active hair protein and the matrix protein.

[0093] The results of the Td evaluation are presented in Table 2 below:

[0094] [Tables2] Composition Denaturation temperature Td (°C) Water 149.3 Cl 148.6 2A 149.5 2B 150.0

[0095] Higher denaturation temperatures probably represent stabilized proteins in the hair fiber (more stable proteins require more energy to denature proteins in hair).

[0096] Overall, the results of the instrumental tests seem to indicate that the addition of the fatty acid provides sweetness and more stable proteins, compared to compositions without it.

[0097] The above examples confirm that the compositions and processes according to the disclosure provide surprisingly and unexpectedly improved softness and reinforcement compared to the compositions and processes not in accordance with the disclosure.

Claims

Demands

1. Keratinous substrate treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one alkali carbonate; (b) at least one polyol; (c) at least one fatty acid and (d) water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and wherein at least one carbonate and at least one polyol are present in the composition in the form of an associated network.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one alkali carbonate is selected from sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, lithium carbonate, zinc carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, or combinations of two or more of these.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of alkali carbonates in the composition and / or associated network ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, more preferably still from about 0.75% to about 4%, most preferably from about 1% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polyols in the composition and / or associated network ranges from about 1% to about 25%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, more preferably still from about 4% to about 13%, most preferably from about 5% to about 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one fatty acid has a carbon chain portion of four to twenty-eight carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one fatty acid has a carbon chain portion of eight to twenty-six carbon atoms.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carbon chain portion comprises uninterrupted carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is selected from a group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepenic acid, oleic acid, eladiic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoeladic acid, alpha linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosopentanoic acid, eruvic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and combinations thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is selected from a group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sepic acid, oleic acid and combinations thereof.

10. Hair treatment method, the method comprising: - applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 onto the keratinous substrate; - removing the composition from the keratinous substrate after a period of application ranging from about 30 seconds to about 48 hours, preferably from about 1 minute to about 24 hours, more preferably from about 5 minutes to about 12 hours, most preferably from about 10 minutes to about 9 hours; and - cleaning the keratinous fibers with a shampoo composition after the application period.