Non-transfer skincare and / or makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group, - at least one volatile oil, and - optionally in addition at least one coloring material.

Description

Title of the invention: Non-transferable skincare and / or makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to skincare and / or makeup compositions of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips, having good hold and 'non-transfer' properties. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There is a strong consumer demand for skincare and makeup products that have good hold on keratinous materials, particularly skin or lips, and that are resistant to rubbing and transfer on skin or any surface (clothing, glass, cup...).

[0003] The prior art is known to use retention polymers, particularly silicone-based polymers, volatile oils, and waxes, especially in solid compositions, but the effectiveness of retention and non-transfer and / or the sensory experience (non-sticky, comfortable appearance) on the skin or lips is not always optimal.

[0004] Consequently, there remains a need to develop new cosmetic products comprising at least volatile oils and exhibiting improved non-transfer properties, without compromising on the desired hold and sensory properties (non-sticky, comfort).

[0005] The Applicant has demonstrated that the association in a cosmetic composition comprising at least volatile oils, of a silicone-polyurethane polymer and a pullulan modified by at least one silicone group, made it possible, compared to each of the polymers alone, or to other associations of pullulan modified by at least one silicone group with other silicone film-forming polymers, to improve the performance of non-transfer and of lasting over time, while keeping a comfortable film on the skin or lips. Description of the invention

[0006] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0007] - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0008] - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group,

[0009] - at least one volatile oil, and

[0010] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter.

[0011] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition with a cosmetic purpose, that is to say aesthetic, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0012] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0013] By "keratinous materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin and / or its appendages, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, and more particularly human skin and / or lips.

[0014] According to a particular mode, the composition is anhydrous.

[0015] By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0016] According to another particular mode, the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, in particular water-in-silicone (W / Si).

[0017] The composition of the invention may be a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0018] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is liquid.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid composition" means a liquid to fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid compositions.

[0020] According to another embodiment, the composition is solid.

[0021] By "solid composition" according to the invention, we mean a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0022] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0023] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular the sticks, can be measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting transversely a stick of product with a diameter between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in revolution, using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 µm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer. For a stick with a composition intended for application to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 30 to 150 Gf, in particular from 40 to 120 Gf.

[0024] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-forming process based on the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular, when the hardness is less than 100 g, the stick-forming process known as "back-fill," consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred to a forming process consisting of pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0025] The compositions of the invention have good non-sticky film properties, non-transfer film properties, film hold-up over time, in particular 4 hours after application, and film comfort over time.

[0026] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0027] The stickiness of the film is evaluated for example after the film has completely dried, by pinching the lips.

[0028] The film's non-transferability is assessed, for example, by placing a tissue between the lips and pinching them together to evaluate the transfer onto the tissue. Non-transferability can also be assessed by touching the film with a finger, kissing the hand, or applying a piece of fabric or a glass slide to the lips (pressure non-transfer assessment). The presence or absence of color transferred onto the surface (hand, finger, fabric, glass, etc.) is then observed; this approach seeks compositions with good pressure resistance.

[0029] The film's durability is assessed, for example, 4 hours after application, by a visual assessment of the film's presence and homogeneity.

[0030] The comfort of the film over time is, for example, evaluated 4 hours after application, by a sensory evaluation of the sensation of dryness of the lips.

[0031] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0032] A first object of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0033] - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer,

[0034] - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group,

[0035] - at least one volatile oil, and

[0036] - possibly in addition at least one coloring matter. Silicone-polyurethane polymer

[0037] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer.

[0038] By “silicone-polyurethane polymer”, we mean here any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and methane bonds.

[0039] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0040] Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups corresponds to formula (I)

[0041] wherein R is chosen independently at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl group; preferably, R is chosen from linear, cyclic or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, optionally substituted, including, without limitation, C1-C8 methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, allyl or aryl groups, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl,

[0042] wherein each of the above R groups may optionally be substituted by one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, and a halogen, in particular fluorine, as illustrated by fluoroalkyl (perfluoroalkyl) groups such as mono-, di-, and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 substituted amino alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula -(CH2)i 6-NRN2 and -(CH2)i-6-NRn-(CH2)i 6-NRN2 where Rn is typically hydrogen, but may also be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, and analogous group; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH2CH2O)n-, propylene oxide groups corresponding to the formula -(CH(CH3)CH2O)n- and combinations thereof; and amine oxide functions, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and / or carboxylate, or analogues; or

[0043] in which R may include an additional group - L-OH;

[0044] wherein L represents either a bond or a bonding group; preferably L is a bonding group selected from divalent hydrocarbons having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as for example an alkyl group in Cl-CIO, including, without limitation, divalent groups of formula -(CH2)m0-, preferably -(CH2)i_6-, and more preferably, L is -CH2CH2CH2-;

[0045] and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0046] Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group; more preferably, R represents a methyl group in all or almost all occurrences, meaning that R represents a methyl group in more than 90% of occurrences, in particular in more than 95% of occurrences, or even in more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane having, for example, the structure of formula la: (there) 3 HO--L—'Si--O-|~St--O—Si--L~—OH CH3 L CHt J CH 3 n

[0047] in which L and n are such as defined previously.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups includes a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ib: ÇHj CH3 (Ib) OH”CH2”C H2”CH2~Si—0“ “ Si”—O~ —Si — CH,” Œ2” CHj-OH CH? - CH3 _ CH3 n

[0049] where n is as defined above.

[0050] The diisocyanate may in particular conform to the formula O=C=NR'-N=C=O, where R1 is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R1 may be selected from a cyclic alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, or alkyl-aryl group.

[0051] or linear, cyclic or branched arylalkyl, optionally substituted, including, without limitation: i. a group of formulas: """yCrijy MO

[0052] ii. a formula group: iii. a group of formulas:

[0053]

[0054] iv. a group of formulas: v. a group of formulas:

[0055]

[0056]

[0057]

[0058] and combinations thereof. The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents. In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0059] In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0060] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or essentially consists of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0061] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0062] Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0063] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) rw Fr» 1 rw (Ib) OH“CÏV~Cï^"CH2~Si“G—'Œ2~œ2~C«é-OH CH, [ Œ3 j CH, he

[0064] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0065] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the context of the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where unit A has the structure of formula II:

[0067] in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to the formula I, a and Ib, and where unit B has the structure of formula III:

[0068] where RI is as defined above, and in which units A and B are arranged according to a linear, branched or cyclic configuration, and preferably linear.

[0069] The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II are a group IV such as:

[0070] in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent a -LO- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which in turn may be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, an R group as defined above, or a terminal group.

[0071] When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they may be present as T or Q type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as shown above, and Q indicates that both R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

[0072] These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone-polyurethane polymer copolymer and T resin or Q resin, branched or grafted.

[0073] Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer can be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V: O [ R 1 RO (V) H y M i 0 H œN—R1—'N—€ Q—L“T~Si--Of-Si—L—O—C N'—R:'"NCO HH lR JR

[0074] in which R, R1 and L are as defined above, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

[0075] The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups bearing one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog thereof.

[0076] The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib and Ib typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

[0077] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or essentially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0078] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0080] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is for example available from Siltech Corporation in the form of a premix in isododecane, under the trade reference SILMER UR 5050 (45% dry matter of polymer in isododecane).

[0081] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemisqualane.

[0082] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0083] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer present in the composition of the invention is the reaction product

[0084] - of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the formula structure (Ib) „„ r (ib) —O~y~Sî'— 0¾ L CHj J Œs iï

[0085] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

[0086] - with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of the 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 2% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition. Pullulan modified by at least one silicone group

[0088] The composition of the invention comprises at least one pullulan modified by a silicone group.

[0089] According to a particular method, the pullulan modified by a silicone group is selected from trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulanes.

[0090] For the purposes of the present invention, "alkyl" means a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, in the C1-C20 position, preferably in the Cl-Cl2 position, and more preferably in the C1-C6 position. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group, such as a methyl or ethyl group, is attached to a linear alkyl chain. Examples of alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, and n-pentyl.

[0091] Thus, the liposoluble polymer of the invention is advantageously a pullulan modified by a silicone group selected from trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulanes preferably bearing an alkyl group in C1-C6. In this embodiment, the liposoluble polymer is more preferably TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (INCI name), for example marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the trade name TSPL-30-ID-F.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, pullulan modified by a silicone group is selected from trialkylsiloxysilyl-carbamoyl pullulanes preferably bearing an alkyl group in C1-C6, said liposoluble polymer being more preferably TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYLPULLULAN.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, pullulan modified by at least one silicone group is present in an active material content ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight of active material, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pullulan modified by at least one silicone group is present in an active ingredient content higher than the active ingredient content of the silicone-polyurethane polymer. Oily phase

[0095] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0096] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils.

[0097] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0098] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil.

[0099] By "volatile oil" according to the present invention, we mean an oil that has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 minutes, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 minutes and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the following protocol:

[0100] 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate at using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0101] This material is spread by hand over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber with a temperature control of 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0102] [Math.l] % serdas mass ——---— with mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tl5min, t30min or tô0min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0103] The volatile oil or oils are in particular chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0105] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, means an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0106] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0107] The volatile oil may be chosen in particular from among silicone oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and cyclomethicones. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, l,l,l,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, in particular dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0108] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0109] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, - linear C9-C14 alkanes, - esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, - the ethers, - dialkoxymethane, - carbonates, - and their mixtures.

[0110] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil or oils present in the composition of the invention are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular C8-Ci6 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] As C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, we can mention in particular the C8-Ci6 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®.

[0112] Examples of linear C9-C14 alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.

[0113] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes may be used, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0114] More particularly, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (Cn / Cu) mixture, of a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) or of a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / C14).

[0115] Examples include alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0116] - C9-C14, C10-C14, Cl1-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0117] - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0118] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, and

[0119] - their mixtures.

[0120] As optionally hydroxylated esters, one may mention in particular esters comprising preferably between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of monoalcohol in C2-C6 and of monocarboxylic acid in C3-C6, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0121] As C8-Ci6 branched esters, one can cite in particular isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0122] Examples of ethers, in particular monoethers, include ethers having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms in total, for example such as the dipentylether.

[0123] Examples of dialkoxymethane include dialkoxymethanes with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, or dibutoxymethane. Such compounds are marketed, in particular, under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively, by the company Lambiotte.

[0124] Examples of carbonates include carbonates having from 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0125] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon volatile oil selected from the group consisting of C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil or oils are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 10 to 65% by weight, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), in particular selected from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-CM linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients (optional)

[0128] The composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional ingredient selected from non-volatile oils, oil-phase gelling and / or structuring agents, additional polymers distinct from silicone-polyurethane polymers and pullulan modified with a silicone group, surfactants, C2-C5 monoalcohols, fillers, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular water-in-silicone, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one surfactant, advantageously a silicone surfactant. Non-volatile oils

[0130] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more non-volatile oils, in particular selected from silicone, phenylated or unphenylated non-volatile oils, hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents

[0132] The composition also generally includes at least one oil or fat phase gelling or structuring agent.

[0133] The terms "fat-phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" refer to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents may be mineral and / or organic gelling agents.

[0134] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent, chosen in particular from inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The fat-phase structuring agents used according to the invention are in particular solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C.

[0136] These structuring agents are in particular chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, in particular from 55 to 80°C.

[0138] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0139] In a particular embodiment, in the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition may comprise at least one gelling agent and / or fat phase structuring agent chosen from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] In the case of a solid composition, such as "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents", modified clays may be cited in particular. Modified clays (also called organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected in particular from quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0141] The clays are in particular natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, especially hectorites and montmorillonites. Preferably, they shall be hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals in Cl4-C20, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0142] As a preferred modified clay, one can cite in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the product with INCI name: COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (and) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE marketed under the name BENTONE GEL CCC V MB by the company Elementis.

[0143] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, may also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0144] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point of 65 to 75°C.

[0145] Examples of "fatty alcohols" suitable for the invention include behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0146] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one wax.

[0147] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0148] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] In a solid composition of the invention, the total wax content will generally range from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% and preferably from 15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] The "pasty fats" usable as fat phase structuring agents are defined as fats with reversible liquid / solid change of state, exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0151] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, in particular diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol(s) or acid(s) function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters such as Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649 MB), polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and their mixtures.In the case of a liquid composition according to the invention, it may advantageously be used as additional lipophilic gelling agents, in particular modified clays as described above, organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. Additional polymers (strength)

[0152] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise, in order to improve the film's adhesion properties, additional polymers distinct from the silicone-polyurethane and pullulan polymers modified with a silicone group. These polymers may be hydrophilic (particularly in the case of compositions of the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion) or lipophilic.

[0153] Examples of hydrophilic polymers include polymers with the INCI name 'VP / VA COPOLYMER' such as that sold under the name PVP / VA S 630.

[0154] As additional lipophilic polymers distinct from silicone-polyurethane polymers and pullulan modified with a silicone group, the following may be mentioned in particular: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers, - Polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, - styrene and indene copolymers, such as the compound with INCI name hydrogenated styrene / methyl styrene / indene copolymer (Regalite RI 100 CG), - sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate, - plant resins, such as candelilla resin, - silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate polymers, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - silicone elastomers, in particular non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, and - their mixtures.

[0155] As non-emulsifying elastomers, one can for example use those of INCI name 'dimethicone crosspolymer' sold under the names DOWSIL Silicone Elastomer Blend such as those carried in a non-volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL, 9041" and "DOWSIL, EL-9241 DM" (dimethicone & dimethicone crosspolymer) by the Dow Chemical Company, as well as those carried in a volatile oil sold under the name "DOWSIL EL-8040 ID", "DOWSIL EL-9140 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9240 DM", "DOWSIL EL-9048", "DOWSIL 9040", "DOWSIL 9045", "DOWSIL EB-9586", "DOWSIL 9546" by the Dow Chemical Company. We can also mention non-emulsifying elastomers carried in a volatile oil, such as those with the INCI name 'Polysilicone-11' such as those sold under the names GRANSIL such as GRANSIL-RG12 (isododecane & polysilicone-11).

[0156] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0157] The term "fillers" means particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong particles, colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0158] The fillers may in particular be chosen from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; carbonate of calcium, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (e.g. nylon); powders of polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acids, silicone resin powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof. Coloring agents

[0159] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0160] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0161] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0162] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. The lipophilic treatment agent is in particular chosen from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and their mixtures, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0164] These colouring materials, particularly when they are pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0165] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0166] Among the "mineral pigments", examples include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0167]

[0168]

[0169]

[0170]

[0171]

[0172]

[0173] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet. Examples of "organic pigments" include D&C Red No. 19; D&C Red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red No. 36 ;; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D &C red n° 3; D &C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a solid anhydrous composition, particularly for the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, which is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) OH—CH2-CH2~CHs CHj CH3 'Si™ rh CH3 l CHj -CHy-ŒrOH (Ib)

[0174]

[0175]

[0176] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof, - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group, selected from trialkylsiloxysilyl-carbamoyl pullulanes preferably bearing an alkyl group in C1-C6, said modified pullulan being more preferably TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYLPULLULAN - at least one volatile oil selected from among C8-C16 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof,

[0177] - at least one coloring matter,

[0178] - at least one oil-phase structuring agent, selected in particular from waxes, Pasty compounds and their mixtures,

[0179] - possibly in addition at least one non-volatile oil selected from the silicone-containing, phenylated or non-phenylated non-volatile oils, hydrocarbon non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof, and

[0180] -optionally in addition at least one additional lipophilic polymer distinct from silicone-polyurethane and pullulan polymers modified by at least one silicone group, selected in particular from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers, sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), and mixtures thereof.

[0181] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a water-in-silicone emulsion, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0182] - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, which is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (Ib) ÇHj [ çh3 1 CH, { M j ' I i ch3 L ch3 J at

[0183] wherein n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof,

[0184] - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group, selected among the trialkylsiloxysilyl-carbamoyl pullulanes preferably bearing an alkyl group in C1-C6, said modified pullulan being more preferably TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYLPULLULAN

[0185] - at least one volatile oil selected from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, the alkanes linear C9-C14 compounds, and their mixtures

[0186] - at least one coloring matter,

[0187] - at least one surfactant, advantageously silicone-based, and

[0188] - at least one charge. GALENIQUE

[0189] The composition of the invention will advantageously be in the form of an anhydrous composition or a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a water-in-silicone emulsion.

[0190] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation, a foundation stick, a corrector, a blush or a cheek powder, preferably a foundation, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss, a lip lacquer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

[0191] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is a liquid composition or a solid composition.

[0192] According to a first mode, it will be a liquid or fluid composition.

[0193] In particular, it will then be a liquid composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin such as an eyeliner, an eyeshadow, a foundation or a corrector, or a composition for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or preferably a composition for the lips such as a gloss or a lip lacquer.

[0194] According to a second mode, it will be a solid composition.

[0195] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid composition, in particular in the form of a stick, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a solid composition for the skin such as an eyeshadow, a skin stick (in particular a foundation stick, a color corrector, an eyelid stick, an eyebrow pencil or an eye pencil), or preferably a solid composition for the lips such as a lip stick (in particular a lip balm or a lipstick stick).

[0196] The different embodiments of the compositions according to the invention are described above. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0197] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0198] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a non-sticky, comfortable film with improved long-lasting and non-transfer (under pressure) properties.

[0199] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0200] Example 1: Effect of combining silicone-polyurethane polymer and pullulan modified by a silicone group in a solid anhydrous composition

[0201] A solid anhydrous lipstick composition according to the invention (combination of the two polymers) was compared to similar compositions comprising only one of the two polymers, with equivalent active polymer content (total of 5% MA* of polymer).

[0202] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient (chemical name or INCI / trade name) % by weight (3% MA* TSPL + 2% MA* Si Imer) Invention % by weight (5% MA* TSPL) Comparative % by weight (5% MA Si Imer) Comparative Al WAXES (SUNFLOWER WAX, BEESWAX, CARNAUBA WAX) 17.00 17.00 17.00 Al BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE E-2 (SOFTISAN 649 MB) 10.00 10.00 10.00 Al ANTIOXIDANT 0.03 0.03 0.03 A2 PIGMENTS (TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND IRON OXIDES) 8.00 8.00 8.00 A2 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DE SODORISE) 16.80 16.80 16.80 A3 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DE SODORISE) QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO B1 ISODODECANE & TRIMETHYLSILO XYSILYLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (TSPL-30-ID) 10.00 (3.00 MA*) 16.60 (5.00 MA*) / B2 ISODODECANE & BIS-HYDROXYPRO PYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYM ER (SILMER UR-5050) 5.00 (2.00 MA*) / 12.50 (5.00 MA*) C ISODODECANE 7.00 5.40 9.50

[0203] MA* = polymer active ingredient

[0204] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0205] Phase Al (waxes, paste, antioxidant) is weighed and heated and mixed under a deflocculator in a water bath at 95 °C;

[0206] When everything is homogeneous, phase A2 (pigments and part of C9-C12 alkanes) is added and left to be stirred for 15 minutes; pass 3 min in the ultra-turrax® until perfect homogenization of the pigment pastes;

[0207] The composition is returned to the deflocculator at 95°C in order to add B1 (TSPL-30-ID) then B2 (Silmer UR-5050) then C (Isododecane) and let it stir for 10 min with slow stirring.

[0208] The lipstick composition is hot-poured into a back-fill mechanism.

[0209] The stickiness, non-transfer, film adhesion and comfort properties of each of the compositions are evaluated on a panel of 4 people (n=4) according to the following protocol:

[0210] Lipstick compositions are applied to the lips. Drying time is 10 minutes before evaluation. The 4 criteria are evaluated as follows: Film Stickiness Evaluation#

[0211] - After the film has completely dried - By pursing the lips Evaluation of Non-Transfer

[0212] - On a handkerchief placed between the lips, with pursing of the lips - Evaluation of the Transfer on the Handkerchief Evaluation of the film's performance

[0213] - Test duration: 4 hours - Visual evaluation of the film's presence and homogeneity after 4 hours. Evaluation of the film's comfort over time.

[0214] - Sensory evaluation after 4 hours - Sensation of dry lips or comfort

[0215] The evaluations are carried out according to the following notations:

[0216] [Tables2] Film stickiness after 10 minutes: No transfer after 10 minutes. Film hold after 4 hours: Film comfort after 4 hours: +++: Very Sticky +: Slightly Sticky X: Not sticky +++: No transfer +: Very slight transfer X: Significant transfer +++: 4-hour hold ++: 2-hour hold X: < 2-hour hold +++: Very Comfortable ++: Comfortable X: uncomfortable (dry thread)

[0217]

[0218]

[0219]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222] The results are presented in the following table: [Tables3] Polymers (total content 5% MA*) Adhesive Non-transfer Film adhesion Comfort Combination TSP L-30-ID SILMER UR-50 50 (invention) + +++ +++ ++ TSPL-30-ID alone (comparative) X +++ ++ ++ Silmer UR-5050 alone (comparative) +++ + ++ ++ These results show that Silmer alone with 5% MA* provides good film adhesion at 2 hours and is comfortable, but is very sticky and exhibits very slight transfer; TSPL-30-ID alone with 5% MA* provides good film adhesion at 2 hours and is comfortable, without transfer or stickiness. Combining the two polymers with a total MA* content of 5% improves the film's adhesion properties at 4 hours with very good non-transfer and without increasing stickiness, resulting in a film that remains comfortable. Example 2: Comparison of the silicone-polyurethane polymer with other hydrophobic film-forming polymers in the combination of the invention Other combinations of silicone film-forming polymers were tested with TSPL-30-ID, respectively: KP-561 P with INCI name: ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, and DOWSIL FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE with INCI name: ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER and ISODODECANE. [Tables 4] Pharma Ingredient (chemical name or INCI / commercial name % by weight % by weight % by weight) ids ds (3% MA* (3% M (3% MA TSPL + 2 A* TSP * TSPL + % MA* FL + 2% 2% MA A 4004ID MA* Si Imer) Inventi on * KP-561 P) Compar atif ) Compara tif Al CIRES (CIRE DE TOURNESOL, CIRE D’ABEI LLE, CIRE DE CARNAUBA) 17.00 17.00 17.00 Al BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (S OFTISAN 649 MB) 10.00 10.00 10.00 Al ANTIOXYDANT 0.03 0.03 0.03 A2 PIGMENTS (DIOXYDE DE TITANE ET OXYD ES DE FER) 8.00 8.00 8.00 A2 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DESOD ORISE) 16.80 16.80 16.80 A3 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DESOD ORISE) QsplOO QsplOO QsplOO B1 ISODODECANE & TRIMETHYLSILOXYSIL YLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (TSPL-30-ID) 10.00 (3.00 M A*) 10.00 (3.00 MA *) 10.00 (3.00 MA* ) B2 ISODODECANE & BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER (SILM ER UR-5050) 5.00 (2.00 M A*) / / B2 ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYM ETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER and ISODO DECANE (DOWSIL FA 4004 ID SILICONE A CRYLATE) / / 5.00 (2.00 MA* ) C ACRYLATES / STEARYL ACRYLATE / DIME THICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYME R (KP-561 P) / 2.00 (2.00 MA *) / C ISODODECANE 7.00 10.00 7.00

[0223]

[0224]

[0225] MA*: active polymer material The compositions are prepared as in example 1 according to the following protocol: The Al phase (waxes, paste, antioxidant) is weighed and heated and mixed. under a deflocculator in a water bath at 95 °C;

[0226] When everything is homogeneous, phase A2 (pigments and part of C9-C12 alkanes) is added and left to be stirred for 15 minutes; pass 3 min in the ultra-turrax® until perfect homogenization of the pigment pastes;

[0227] The composition is returned to the deflocculator at 95°C in order to add phases B (B 1 then B2) and C and to stir for 10 min with slow stirring.

[0228] The composition is hot-poured into a back-fill mechanism.

[0229] Compositions are evaluated following the same protocol as described in Example 1 and with the same notations.

[0230] The results are presented in the following table:

[0231] [Tables5] Polymers (total content 5% MA*) Adhesive Non-transfer Film adhesion Comfort Combination TSP L-30-ID + SILMER UR-50 50 (invention) + +++ +++ ++ Combination TSP L-30-ID + KP-5 61 P (comparative) + + ++ X TSPL-30-ID + Dowsil FA 4004 ID + + XX

[0232] These results show that TSPL-30-ID, in association with other silicone film-forming polymers such as KP-561 P and respectively Dowsil FA 4004 ID, compared to the association according to the invention with Silmer UR-5050, do not give the desired properties of non-transfer, film strength at 4H and film comfort after 4h.

[0233] Example 3: Solid anhydrous composition of lipstick

[0234] [Tableauxô] Phase Ingredient (chemical name or INCI / trade name) % by weight Al NATURAL WAXES (NESOL TOWER WAX, BEESWAX, CA RNAUBA WAX) 17.00 Al BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPAT E-2 (SOFTISAN 649 MB) 10.00 Al DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETH ICON (KF-56 A) 10.00 Al ANTIOXIDANT 0.03 A2 PIGMENTS (TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND IRON OXIDES) 8.00 A2 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) 16.80 A3 C9-C12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK DEODORIZED) QsplOO B1 ISODODECANE & TRIMETHYLSILO XYSILYLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (TSPL-30-ID) 10.00 (3.00 MA*) B2 ISODODECANE & BIS-HYDROXYPR OPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOL YMER (SILMER UR-5050) 5.00 (2.00 MA*) C ISODODECANE 7.00

[0235] MA*: polymer active ingredient

[0236] The composition is prepared according to the protocol described in example 1.

[0237] When applied to the lips, it provides a comfortable, non-transferable film with good long-lasting performance, with comfort further enhanced by the presence of phenyl silicone oil (KF-56A).

[0238] Example 4: Fluid anhydrous composition for lips

[0239] [Tables?] Phase e Ingredient (chemical name or INCI / trade name) % by weight Al DIMETHICONE & DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOWSIL EL 92 41 DM) 24.00 (3.6% MA*) Al ISODODECANE & POLYSILICONE -11 (GRANSIL RG-12) 22.00 (3.52% MA*) Al DIMETHICONE (KF-96L 1.5 CS) 17.50 A2 ISODODECANE & BIS-HYDROX YPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER (SILMER UR-5050) 1.00 (0.40 MA*) A3 ORGANIC PIGMENTS 6.8 A3 C9-C12 ALKANE QsplOO A3 LAURYL PEG-10 TRIS(TRIMETHY LSILOXY)SILYLETHYL DIMETHI CONE & TOCOPHEROL (DOWSIL ES-5300) 0.20 B ISODODECANE & TRIMETHYLS ILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYL PUL LULAN (TSPL-30-ID) 5.00 (1.50 MA*) C Fillers 4.50 D TRIBEHENIN and CIRE DE CANDEL ILLA 5.00

[0240] MA*: polymer active ingredient

[0241] The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0242] Phase Al is weighed in the main beaker and placed under a deflocculator at 600 rpm for 20 min at room temperature;

[0243] Phase A2 is pre-mixed in a capsule and added to Al, then mixed for 5 min at 800 rpm;

[0244] Phase B is added to the final beaker and mixed for 5 min at 800 rpm;

[0245] Phase C is added to the final beaker and mixed for 5 minutes at 800 rpm. Rayneri; Phase A is placed in a water bath, heated to 80 °C under a deflocculator;

[0246] Phase D is weighed in a capsule and melted on a hot plate;

[0247] Phase D is added to the main beaker, mixed for 10 min, then heating is stopped, and the composition is cooled to 45°C under low stirring;

[0248] The composition is finally poured at 45°C.

[0249] When applied to the lips, it provides a comfortable, non-transfer film with good long-lasting performance.

[0250] Example 5: Effect of combining silicone-polyurethane polymer and pullulan modified by a silicone group in a water-in-silicone emulsion

[0251] A water-in-silicone composition comprising the combination of polymers according to The invention was prepared and evaluated in comparison to the same composition comprising only TSPL with equivalent MA* content.

[0252] [Tables8] Phase Ingredient (chemical name or INCI / commercial name) % by weight (2.4% MA * TSPL + 0.8% MA * Silmer) invention % by weight (3.2% % MA* TSP L alone) comparatif Al DIMETHICONE (KF-96L 1.5 CS) 7.65 7.65 Al ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 4.50 4.50 Al CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE & PENTA ERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXY HYDROCINNAMATE & TRIISOPROPANOLAMINE (ABIL EM 180) 0.50 0.50 Al PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE (KF-6028) 4.00 4.00 Al ISODODECANE & DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTO RITE & PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE GEL ISD V MB) 8.30 8.30 A2 PIGMENTS (TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND IRON OXIDES) TREATED SODIUM MYRISTOYL GLUT AMATE AND ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 13.00 13.00 A2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE & STEARIC ACID & ALU MINA (SP SOLAVEIL 1.50 A3 CELLULOSE 0.50 0.50 B1 PURIFIED WATER COSM qsplOO qsplOO B1 GLYCEROL and 1.3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 4.00 4.00 B2 VP / VA COPOLYMER (PVP / VA S 630) 0.20 0.20 . B3 ALCOHOL 96.2% VOL KG 10.00 10.00 B3 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 Cl ISODODECANE & BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DI METHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER (SILMER U R-5050) 2.00 (0.80 MA *) / C2 ISODODECANE & TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILY LCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (TSPL-30-ID) 8.00 (2.40 MA *) 10.67 (3.20 MA *)

[0253] MA*= polymer active ingredient

[0254] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0255] Phase Al is weighed in the main beaker and mixed with ultra-turrax® at room temperature;

[0256] Phase A2 is weighed into a capsule and passed through the tri-cylinder (3 passes) to disperse the pigments. Phase A2 is then added to phase Al under ultra-turrax;

[0257] Phase A3 is added to Al + A2 under ultra-turrax®;

[0258] Phase B1 is weighed in a beaker and dispersed in the deflocculator at temperature ambient;

[0259] Phase B2 is weighed and dispersed in B1;

[0260] Phase B3 is weighed and added to B1 + B2;

[0261] When B is homogeneous, phase B is emulsified in phase A by gradually increasing the speed up to 800 rpm;

[0262] Phase Cl is weighed in a cup and added to the main beaker;

[0263] Phase C2 is weighed in a cup and added to the main beaker;

[0264] The foundation composition is then mixed for 20 minutes at 800 rpm.

[0265] The non-transfer property was evaluated on 4 panelists (n=4) according to the protocol following :

[0266] 50mg of composition is applied to the forearm over an area of ​​5x5cm;

[0267] The spread film is left for 15 minutes (drying time) before evaluation;

[0268] A paper tissue is applied to the spread film of the composition by applying pressure with the hand (100g);

[0269] The non-transfer of the composition onto the handkerchief is assessed visually, according to the following notations:

[0270] +++: no transfer

[0271] ++: very slight transfer

[0272] + : Slight transfer

[0273] X: transfer onto the handkerchief

[0274] The composition according to the invention (combination of the two polymers) is evaluated with a non-transfer rating '+++' (no transfer), whereas the comparative composition with TSPL alone with equivalent active ingredient content is evaluated with a non-transfer rating '+' (slight transfer).

[0275] These results show that the association according to the invention improves the non-transfer properties, compared to the TSPL polymer alone.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one silicone-polyurethane polymer, - at least one pullulan modified by at least one silicone group, - at least one volatile oil, and - optionally in addition at least one coloring matter.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular having the formula structure (Ib) ch3 Fçh3 'j OH “CHj ~ai2”Œ2-si—Oj-Si—O 4“Si •— 0¾ ~ Œ2- ai r OH CH, lŒj j CHj il in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexyl methane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the pullulan modified by a silicone group is selected from trialkylsiloxysilyl-carbamoyl pullulanes preferably bearing an alkyl group in Cl-C6, said modified pullulan being more preferably TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYLPULLULAN.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, esters, optionally hydroxylated, in particular C8-C16 branched esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is present in a content of 0.2% to 8% by weight of active polymer (dry matter), preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably again 0.8% to 2% by weight of active polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that pullulan modified by at least one silicone group is present in an active material content of 0.2% to 15% by weight of active material, in particular 1% to 5% by weight of active material, preferably 1.5% to 3% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in a content of 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional ingredient selected from non-volatile oils, oil-phase gelling and / or structuring agents, additional polymers distinct from silicone-polyurethane polymers and pullulan modified with a silicone group, surfactants, C2-C5 monoalcohols, fillers, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is in the form of an anhydrous composition or a water-in-oil emulsion.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a liquid composition or a solid composition.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a skin composition such as eyeliner, eyeshadow, foundation, foundation stick, concealer, blush or cheek powder, preferably a foundation, or a composition for eyelashes such as mascara, or preferably a composition for

12. lip products such as lip gloss, lip lacquer, lip balm or lipstick stick. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on the keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.