REFRESHING, STABLE, NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH A HIGH WATER CONTENT

Abstract

STABLE, NON-GREASY REFRESHING COMPOSITION WITH A LARGE QUANTITY OF WATER The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value greater than 4; (b) at least one wax; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-ionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and (e) water, wherein the amount of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.The composition according to the present invention is stable despite containing a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing sensation such as a water spray sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feel. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: Stable, non-greasy cooling composition with a high water content. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, which comprises a large amount of water but is stable, and which can provide a comfortable texture. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Giving the skin a comfortable texture is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin care cosmetic products.

[0003] In particular, a refreshing sensation (caused, for example, by a transformation of texture which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which can allow the liquid to flow out of the composition) such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, during application, as well as a non-greasy sensation after application, are always necessary for consumer satisfaction during use.

[0004] It should be noted that a composition that is unstable and easily causes the structure of the composition to collapse often provides a comfortable texture. This means that it is difficult to offer both a feeling of comfort during use and good stability.

[0005] To date, several technologies concerning O / W type compositions that provide improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, WO2024 / 106520 discloses a stable composition that can provide a texture transformation.

[0006] However, sufficient research has not yet been carried out on W / O type compositions which are stable and can provide a cooling sensation during application, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation after application.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In order to provide a refreshing sensation such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, during application, it has already been proposed to increase the amount of water in the W / H type composition.

[0011] However, a large quantity of water in a W / H type composition results in a high proportion of aqueous droplets, which tend to be larger and also closer together. Therefore, for these compositions, there is an increased risk of coalescence between the droplets, leading to destabilization of the composition.

[0012] An objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition that can provide a refreshing sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation, despite the composition including a large amount of water.

[0013] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

[0014] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0015] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0016] (b) at least one wax;

[0017] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0018] (d) at least one oil; and

[0019] (e) water,

[0020] in which

[0021] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0022] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0023] The (a) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, preferably esters of (i-1) at least a polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and more preferably in the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0024] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0026] The quantity of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The difference between the HLB values ​​of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0028] The (b) wax may be selected from polar waxes, preferably polar ester waxes, more preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and even more preferably from the group consisting of jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, oryza sativa (rice) bran wax, and a mixture thereof.

[0029] The quantity of the (b) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The (c) hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and, preferably, from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and one of their mixtures.

[0031] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The (d) oil can be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, such as ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0033] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder.

[0035] The (f) powder can be chosen from the fillers, preferably silicas, and more preferably porous silicas.

[0036] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material. Best embodiment of the invention

[0037] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition that can offer a refreshing sensation, as well as a reduced or non-greasy sensation, despite the fact that the composition includes a large amount of water.

[0038] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:

[0039] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0040] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0041] (b) at least one wax;

[0042] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0043] (d) at least one oil; and

[0044] (e) water,

[0045] in which

[0046] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0047] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0048] The composition according to the present invention is stable although the composition includes a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing sensation such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, as well as a slightly or non-greasy sensation.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after preparation and for a long time afterward, even when subjected to temperature changes from cool to warm. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for extended periods, even during temperature fluctuations in summer.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention can provide a sensation of freshness such as a sensation of being sprayed with water, preferably during application.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention can provide a textural transformation during application, preferably at the beginning of application. Textural transformation here means a change in the texture of a gel or cream, for example, into a liquid, which corresponds to a change in the physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the composition's structure that could allow the liquid to flow from the composition. The textural transformation can provide a cooling sensation.

[0052] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a reduced or non-greasy sensation, preferably after application.

[0053] The term “greasy” here means a property which gives an oily sensation to the skin.

[0054] The composition according to this includes (d) oil, and (b) wax which has properties similar to those of oil; the composition may cause an oily or greasy feeling after application.

[0055] However, the composition according to the present invention may not provide any oily or greasy sensation, or may provide a reduced oily or greasy sensation, although the composition includes (d) oil and (b) wax.

[0056] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a comfortable texture, in particular an excellent feel during and after application of the composition.

[0057] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention includes a very limited or zero amount of silicone. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.

[0058] The composition according to the present invention and similar will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0059] The composition according to the present invention includes:

[0060] (al) at least a first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0061] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0062] (b) at least one wax;

[0063] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic;

[0064] (d) at least one oil; and

[0065] (e) water,

[0066] in which

[0067] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0068] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. (First fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

[0069] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less. Only one type of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, or two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.

[0070] The (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant.

[0071] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid be biodegradable, and preferably be highly biodegradable or have high biodegradability. Here, the term "highly biodegradable" or "high biodegradability" refers to biodegradability classified as "readily biodegradable" in accordance with the test methodology according to OECD biodegradation test procedure 301B, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0072] The (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 1 or more, preferably of 2 or more, and more preferably of 3 or more.

[0073] The (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 1 to 4, preferably 2 to 4, more preferably 3 to 4.

[0074] The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. HLB values ​​can be calculated using the formula HLB = 20*(1S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.

[0075] If two or more first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0076] The first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be a non-polymerized or a polymeric polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid. "Non-polymerized fatty acid" and "polymerized fatty acid" here refer respectively to a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid. "Polymerized fatty acid" includes, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxy acids, in which each hydroxy acid comprises 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0077] It is preferable that the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0078] It is more preferable that the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be chosen from the esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0079] (i-1) Polyglycerol can be represented by the following chemical formula: OH OH

[0080] in which "n" designates the degree of condensation, which can range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7 and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, "n" designates 5.

[0081] Preferably, the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid comprises 10 or fewer glycerol units, preferably 8 or fewer glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or fewer glycerol units. In particular, it is preferable that the first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid comprises 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0082] The (ii-1) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxy acids.

[0083] In one embodiment, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer can be a fatty acid polycondensate that can be formed by the reaction of the carboxyl group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid with the hydroxyl group and the carboxyl acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids. In other words, the (al) The first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0084] When the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is a polymer, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0085] The hydroxy acid can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C10 -C26, preferably in Ci2-C24, more preferably in Ci4-C22 and even more preferably in Ci6-C20, having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.

[0086] Ricinoleic acid is an example of hydroxy acids, in particular unsaturated hydroxy acids, and has a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid can be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, giving the polyricinoleate. Thus, the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), that is, a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0087] The first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate (HLB: 4.0), PG4 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), PG5 polyricinoleate (HLB: 2 or less), PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.3), and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from among polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, more preferably from the esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and even more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and one of their mixtures.

[0089] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, of preference of 10% by weight or less, and more preferably of 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] The quantity of the first (al) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

[0092] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a2) at least one second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4. Only one type of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, or two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.

[0093] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant.

[0094] It is preferable that the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be biodegradable, and preferably be highly biodegradable or have high biodegradability. Here, the term "highly biodegradable" or "high biodegradability" refers to biodegradability classified as "readily biodegradable" according to the test methodology of OECD biodegradation test procedure 301B, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0095] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably of 7 or less, and more preferably of 6 or less.

[0096] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB value greater than 4 and 8 or less, preferably greater than 4 and 7 or less, more preferably greater than 4 and 6 or less.

[0097] The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium”) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. HLB values ​​can be calculated using the formula HLB = 20*(1S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.

[0098] If two or more (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values ​​of all the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0099] The (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a non-polymer fatty acid polyglyceryl ester or a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. "Non-polymer fatty acid" and "polymer fatty acid" here refer to a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid, respectively. "Polymeric fatty acid" includes, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxy acids, in whereby each hydroxy acid comprises 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0100] It is preferable that the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be a polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.

[0101] It is more preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid be chosen from the esters of:

[0102] (i-2) at least one polyglycerol;

[0103] and

[0104] (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids,

[0105] (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and

[0106] (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.

[0107] (i-2) Polyglycerols can be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0108] in which "n" designates the degree of condensation, which can range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7 and more preferably from 3 to 5. More preferably still, "n" designates 3.

[0109] Preferably, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 10 or fewer glycerol units, preferably 8 or fewer glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or fewer glycerol units. Preferably, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0110] The (ii-2) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxy acids.

[0111] In one embodiment, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a fatty acid polycondensate that can be formed by the reaction of the carboxyl group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid with the hydroxyl group and the carboxyl group of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids. In other words, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0112] When the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is a polymer, the fatty acid fraction of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0113] The hydroxy acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C10-C26, preferably in C12-C24, more preferably in C14-C22 and even more preferably in C16-C20, having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.

[0114] According to one embodiment, the (ii-2) saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacid polycondensate is a polymer of hydroxyacids which may be polyhydroxystearic acid such as (12-hydroxystearic) polyacid.

[0115] According to one embodiment, the (iii) aliphatic monocarboxylic acid (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated), linear or branched, may contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and arachidic acid, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid (C18).

[0116] According to one embodiment, the (iv) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) may contain from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid and dodecanedioic acid, in particular sebacic acid (Cio).

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment, the above esters can be obtained by esterification of:

[0118] (i-21) polyglycerols with 2 to 10, preferably 3 to 8, and more preferably 4 to 6 glycerol motifs;

[0119] and

[0120] (ü-21) polyhydroxystearic acids,

[0121] (iii1) linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0122] (iv1) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0123] Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20% and 40%, preferably between 40% and 70%.

[0124] According to a more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-2) esters can be obtained by esterification of:

[0125] (i-2") polyglycerol with 4 glycerol motifs;

[0126] and

[0127] (ü-2") poly(12-hydroxystearic acid),

[0128] (iii") isostearic acid, and

[0129] (iv") sebacic acid.

[0130] Such poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol esters are described in US application 2005 / 0031580.

[0131] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the above ester may be a compound represented by the following chemical formula:

[0132] in which

[0133] PHS designates a polyhydroxystearic acid residue, and

[0134] IS denotes an isostearic acid residue.

[0135] The above compound may be named polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is sold, for example, under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Evonik.

[0136] Preferably the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from among the polymeric fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, more preferably the esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and even more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0137] The amount of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] The amount of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The quantity of the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] (HLB difference)

[0141] The difference between the HLB values ​​of the (al) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0142] If the difference between the HLB values ​​of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more, the stability of the composition according to the present invention under temperature changes can be further improved. (Wax)

[0143] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one wax. Only one type of wax may be used, or two or more different types of waxes may be used in combination.

[0144] The term “wax” is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, as a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[0145] The melting point of the wax here refers to a temperature at which all the wax is melted.

[0146] The (b) wax may have a melting point of 50 °C to 120 °C, preferably of 60 °C to 110 °C, and more preferably of 70 °C to 100 °C.

[0147] (b) wax can be crystalline and, consequently, (b) wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of (b) wax can begin at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company.

[0148] The (b) wax can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0149] According to the present invention, (b) wax, as a lipophilic thickener, can increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0150] The (b) wax can be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0151] It is preferable that (b) wax be chosen from among polar waxes.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax for which the solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is anything other than 0 (J / cm3)1^.

[0153] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: “The three-dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0154] According to this Hansen space:

[0155] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0156] - ôh characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0157] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor, hydrogen, etc.) and

[0158] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + 0^)½.

[0159] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1^.

[0160] The (b) wax may be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0161] Preferably the (b) wax has a chemical structure formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0162] The (b) wax may include hydrocarbon, fluorinated, or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. The term "fluorinated wax" means a wax comprising at least one fluorine atom, in particular comprising at least one perfluoro group. The term "silicone wax" means a wax containing at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, the (b) wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0164] As a hydrocarbon wax, a wax selected from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

[0165] The expression "ester wax" is understood according to the present invention as a wax comprising at least one ester functional group.

[0166] According to the present invention, the expression "alcohol wax" refers to a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

[0167] The following elements can be used in particular as ester waxes:

[0168] - ester waxes such as those selected from: i. Waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N, or P, and whose melting point varies from 25 °C to 120 °C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or a C2O-C4O alkyl stearate may be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydropolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®, and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.

[0169] One can also use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as Licowax KPS Flakes wax (INCI name: Glycol Montanate) sold by the Clariant company. i. bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate), sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. - Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iii. Also included are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190. waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57. iv. We can also mention beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerol beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, lignite wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

[0170] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a polar wax derived from plants, such as jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and acacia decurrens flower wax.

[0171] According to another embodiment, the (b) wax can be an alcohol wax.

[0172] Alcohol waxes that may be cited include, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol Wax from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0173] The (b) wax may be a silicone wax, for example silicone-coated beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is devoid of any silicone wax.

[0174] The (b) wax may be selected from polar waxes, preferably polar ester waxes, more preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and even more preferably jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, oryza sativa (rice) bran wax and a mixture thereof.

[0175] The quantity of the (b) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The quantity of the (b) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The quantity of the (b) wax(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0178] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener preferably selected from nonionic polysaccharides. If two or more such hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be identical or different.

[0179] The (c) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0180] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0181] Non-ionic polysaccharides may be selected from non-cellulosic polysaccharides.

[0182] Non-cellulosic polysaccharide here refers to polysaccharides that are not derived from cellulose. Thus, cellulose and its derivatives, such as polyquaternium-10, are not included within the scope of non-cellulosic polysaccharide.

[0183] The nonionic polysaccharide may have a linear or branched structure, preferably a linear structure.

[0184] The nonionic polysaccharide can be a homopolysaccharide comprising a single type of monosaccharide, or a heteropolysaccharide comprising two or more different types of monosaccharide.

[0185] It is preferable that the nonionic polysaccharide be biodegradable. The term "biodegradable" means that the nonionic polysaccharide can be degraded or broken down in the environment or in or on a living organism due, for example, to the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the environment or in or on the living organism. Similarly, the biodegradable nonionic polysaccharide can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0186] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is chosen from a non-ionic polysaccharide, be derived from natural resources, such as plants and microorganisms.

[0187] Examples of nonionic polysaccharides derived from plants include: modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, mannans, glucomannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, xyloglucans, arabinogalactans, agar, locust bean gum or carob gum, tamarind seed gum, dextrin, galactomannans, such as tara gum, guar gums, and their nonionic derivatives (e.g. hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

[0188] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elementary fractions which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these fractions and their arrangement allow us to distinguish amylose (a linear polymer) from amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0189] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0190] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0191] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or acylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0192] Guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0193] Modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified by hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0194] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0195] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0196] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0197] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120 and Jaguar HP-120 by the Solvay company.

[0198] It is more preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is chosen from a non-ionic polysaccharide, be chosen from those derived from microorganisms, which may be called non-ionic “biopolysaccharides”.

[0199] Microorganism-derived polysaccharide or biopolysaccharide refers to a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria. Microorganism-derived polysaccharides can be produced by the fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.

[0200] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may contain motifs selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof.

[0201] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms can optionally be chemically modified.

[0202] Examples of non-ionic biopolysaccharides include cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0203] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener be chosen from among non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and more preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum and one of their mixtures.

[0204] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener not be chosen from among the [3-glucans.

[0205] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] The quantity of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0208] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0209] The (d) oil(s) may constitute a fatty phase, which may be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0210] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0211] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0212] The (d) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0213] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0215] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane-type oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0216] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0217] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0218] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0219] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0220] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0221] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids and preferably C2-C22 fatty acids may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to Compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0222] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0223] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the C6-C30, and preferably in the C2-C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated range. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0224] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0226] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0227] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0228] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, the following may be cited, for example: diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0230] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0231] - linear or branched C5-Ci9 alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0232] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0233] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0234] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0235] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0236] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0237] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any saturated linear or branched C6-C3O fatty alcohols. Among saturated linear or branched C6-C3O fatty alcohols, saturated linear or branched Ci2-C2O fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any saturated linear or branched Ci6-C2O fatty alcohols may be used more preferentially. Branched Ci6-C2O fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0238] Examples of fatty alcohols include isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0239] It is also preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0240] The (d) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, such as ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0241] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)

[0244] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0245] (e) water can constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0246] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55% by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 50% and 85% by weight or less, preferably greater than 55% by weight and 80% by weight or less, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight and 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Powder)

[0249] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder. If two or more powders are used, they may be identical or different.

[0250] According to the present invention, the (f) powder is insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water.

[0251] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "insoluble powder" means a powder whose solubility in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25 °C is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and most preferably without solubility.

[0252] The (f) powder is in the form of one or more particles.

[0253] The diameter of the (f) powder is not limited. The average particle size of the (f) powder may be 10 nm or more, preferably 50 nm or more, and more preferably 100 nm or more, and / or may be 1000 µm or less, preferably 500 µm or less, and more preferably 300 µm or less. Thus, the (f) powder may have an average particle size from 10 nm to 1000 µm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 µm, and more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm. The average particle size may be a volume-average particle size that can be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

[0254] The (f) powder is preferably in the form of a solid.

[0255] The (f) powder can be selected from the fillers.

[0256] The term "charge" should be understood as meaning a colourless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle that is insoluble in any liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0257] The charge(s) (c) may be inorganic or organic, and may be spherical or oblong in shape, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic and similar).Examples include, but are not limited to, talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite; powders made of polyamide (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene; powders made of polyurethane; powders made of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®); lauryllysine; starch; hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those made of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymers; and silicone resin microbeads. (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles formed from polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, the . magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, porous silica, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.

[0258] It is preferable that the (f) powder be chosen from among the fillers, more preferably silicas, and more preferably porous silicas.

[0259] The quantity of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] The quantity of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The quantity of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Silicone)

[0262] If the composition contains silicone(s), one, two or more silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0263] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein means, in accordance with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure of varying molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and essentially comprising a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=), the optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular alkyl radicals of the form C1.C10, and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl, and aryl radicals, and in particular phenyl radicals.

[0264] The silicone(s), if present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention, may be volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone or combinations thereof.

[0265] The silicone(s) may be selected from, but not limited to, organopolysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, amino-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, carboxyl-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, aliphatic alcohol-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, aminopolyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. The silicone(s) may be chosen from among polydialkylsiloxanes, such as a polydimethylsiloxane, and amino-modified silicones, and in particular chosen from among amino-modified silicones.

[0266] In one embodiment, the silicone can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, amino-modified silicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones.

[0267] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. Examples of polydialkylsiloxanes include linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups and polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl terminal groups. Examples of polyalkylarylsiloxanes include linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes.

[0268] According to the present invention, the expression "amino-modified silicone", or aminosilicone, designates any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

[0269] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0270] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention does not include silicone. (Optional ingredients)

[0271] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically cationic, anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. other than ingredients (a1) and (a2), preservatives, or similar, in a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0272] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of silicone(s) in order to be environmentally friendly.

[0274] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include silicone.

[0275] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction such as the polyoxyethylene fraction, in particular polyoxyalkylene-alkyl ether surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene-alkyl ether surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene sorbitol fatty acid ester surfactant(s) polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,Polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactants, such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactants, and polyoxyalkylene phytosterol surfactants, such as polyoxyethylene phytosterol surfactants, are being used in an environmentally friendly manner.

[0276] The quantity of the surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any surfactant including at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction. (Methods of implementation)

[0277] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0278] 0.01% to 15% by weight of (al) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0279] 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0280] 0.01% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one wax;

[0281] 0.001% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from the non-ionic polysaccharides;

[0282] 0.1% to 30% by weight of (d) at least one oil; and

[0283] more than 50% by weight of (e) water,

[0284] in which

[0285] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0286] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0287] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (al1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value of 4 or less, selected from the esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids;

[0288] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (a2') at least one second polyglyceryl ester of acid fat having an HLB value greater than 4, selected from the esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0289] 0.05% to 15% by weight of (b1) at least one wax selected from polar waxes;

[0290] 0.005% to 5% by weight of (c1) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from the non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms;

[0291] 0.5% to 25% by weight of (d') at least one oil selected from the ester oils; and

[0292] more than 55% by weight of (e) water,

[0293] in which

[0294] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0295] According to another, more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0296] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (al") polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate;

[0297] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (a2") polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate;

[0298] 0.1% to 10% by weight of (b") at least one polar ester wax;

[0299] 0.01% to 1% by weight of (c") sclerotium gum;

[0300] 1% to 20% by weight of (d”) at least one oil selected from the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols; and

[0301] more than 60% by weight of (e) water,

[0302] in which

[0303] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. (Preparation)

[0304] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0305] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer. (Shape)

[0306] The composition according to the present invention may be of the E / H type.

[0307] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of aqueous phases may be dispersed in the oily phase. In this case, the aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the oily phase is a continuous phase.

[0308] The aqueous phase may include the (c) hydrophilic thickener and (e) water.

[0309] The fatty phase may include the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, the (b) wax and the (d) oil.

[0310] Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / H type composition, comprising:

[0311] a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0312] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0313] (a2) at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value greater than 4;

[0314] (b) at least one wax;

[0315] (d) at least one oil,

[0316] and

[0317] a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0318] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic; and

[0319] (e) of water,

[0320] in which

[0321] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0322] the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0323] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 12% by weight or more, and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0324] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 28% by weight or less, and more preferably 26% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0325] The quantity of the fat phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 12% to 28% by weight and more preferably from 14% to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0326] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more and, more preferably, 74% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0328] The quantity of aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 74% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0329] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a W / O emulsion, since ingredients (a1) and (a2) can function as an emulsifier. [Application, process and use]

[0330] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material such as skin.

[0331] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for the treatment of keratinous material such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratinous material.

[0332] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous material such as skin, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0333] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as skincare products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0334] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.

[0335] The care product may be a lotion, a cream and the like.

[0336] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used as a skin care composition

[0337] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0338] (al) at least one first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0339] (a2) at least one at least a second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having a HLB value greater than 4;

[0340] (b) at least one wax; and

[0341] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from non-polysaccharides ionic

[0342] in a composition comprising:

[0343] (d) at least one oil; and

[0344] (e) of water,

[0345] in which

[0346] the quantity of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55 % by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0347] the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone,

[0348] in order to stabilize the composition

[0349] and / or

[0350] in order to cause a transformation in the texture of the composition when applied to a keratinous material such as skin, preferably at the beginning of the application, and / or to reduce the oily appearance of the keratinous material after application.

[0351] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) at least one powder.

[0352] The explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (f) of the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0353] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-6 [Preparation]

[0354] The following compositions, in the form of O / W emulsions, according to Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components indicated in Table 1 as follows: 1. Mixing the ingredients from rows A of Table 1 at 80-90 °C to form a uniform mixture of phase A; 2. Mixing the ingredients from rows B of Table 1 at 80-90 °C to form a uniform mixture of phase B; 3. Adding the uniform mixture of Phase B to the uniform mixture of Phase A, gradually using a propeller mixer to form a uniform phase (Phases A and B); and 4. Cooling of the phase uniformly to room temperature.

[0355] The numerical values ​​of the quantities of components indicated in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0356] [Tables] Pha Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex. se com com com com com com com p. 1 p. 2 p. 3 p.4 p. 5 p. 6 A (a 1) Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate ** (HLB: 3.3) 0.55 0.55 0.9 - 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 (a 2) Polyglyceryl-4*2 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (HLB: 5) 0.35 0.35 0.9 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 (d) Ethylhexyl palmitate 9.6 9.6 9.6 9.6 12 9.6 9.6 38.4 (b) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 - 2.4 2.4 2.4 Butyr ospermum Parkii butter (Shea) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 4.8 B (c) Sawn gum 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 - - 0.05 Xanthan gum - - - - - - 0.05 - Glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sorbitol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Pentylene glycol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Chlorphenesin 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Magnesium sulfate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (e) Water 68.9 5 68.4 5 68.9 5 68.9 5 68.9 5 69 68.9 5 36.5 5 (f) Silica - 0.5 - - - - - - Cooling sensation Very good Very good Very good Very good Very good Very good Very bad Non-greasy sensation Good Very good Good Good Very good Good Very bad Stability Very good Very good Bad Bad Very bad Bad Very bad

[0357] 1: SY-Glycer CRS-75 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.)

[0358] 2: ISOLAN GPS (Evonik Industries AG) [Reviews] (Refreshing sensation)

[0359] Five professional panelists evaluated the "water spray sensation" during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it in a circular motion to their skin. The panelists rated the water spray sensation during application from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0360] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the sensation of water spray is clearly felt at the beginning of the application)

[0361] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the sensation of water spray is felt at the beginning of the application)

[0362] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (the sensation of water spray is barely felt at the beginning of the application)

[0363] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the sensation of water spraying is not felt at all at the beginning of the application)

[0364] The results are shown in Table 1. (Non-greasy feel)

[0365] Five professional panelists assessed the "non-greasy feel" after applying the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their skin to assess the non-greasy feel after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

[0366] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the bolding is not noticeable at all after application)

[0367] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the bolding is barely noticeable after application)

[0368] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (the bold text is noticeable after application)

[0369] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the bolding is clearly noticeable after application)

[0370] The results are shown in Table 1. (Stability)

[0371] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was poured into a glass bottle and maintained in the following temperature variation cycle at 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C and 45 °C for 2 months.

[0372] Temperature variation cycle: a. maintaining the composition at 4 °C for 6 hours; b. increasing the temperature of the composition to 25 °C over a period from 6 a.m.; c. increasing the temperature of the composition to 37 °C over a period of 6 hours; d. increasing the temperature of the composition to 45 °C over a period of 6 hours; and e. decrease in the temperature of the composition to 4 °C.

[0373] Ten cycles were carried out and the defects in the composition were evaluated between each cycle. In particular, each composition was studied in terms of the degree of change in appearance (e.g., syneresis, separation and creaming), color (e.g., yellowing and browning) and odor (e.g., bad odor) of the composition, and evaluated according to the following criteria:

[0374] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

[0375] Good: Few changes in appearance, color and odor were observed.

[0376] Bad: Changes in appearance, color, and odor have been clearly observed.

[0377] Very bad: Significant changes in appearance, color and odor have been noted.

[0378] The results are shown in Table 1. (Summary)

[0379] As is clear from Table 1, the composition according to the present invention (Examples 1 and 2) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-greasy feel after application; and stability under temperature variations during 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a1), (a2), (b), and (c) and (e) in the presence of ingredients (d) and (e). Example 2 shows that the addition of ingredient (f) can further improve the non-greasy feel after application. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, an excellent feel and stability over a long period, even in the event of temperature changes.

[0380] Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include ingredient (a2) (second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester), showed lower stability.

[0381] The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include ingredient (al) (first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester), also showed lower stability.

[0382] The composition according to Comparative Example 3, which did not include ingredient (b) (wax), also showed lower stability.

[0383] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which did not include ingredient (c) (a hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides), also showed lower stability. It should be noted that xanthan gum has carboxy groups and is therefore an anionic polysaccharide.

[0384] The composition according to Comparative Example 6, which includes a smaller amount of water, could not provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-greasy feeling after application; and stability in the event of temperature changes for 2 months.

Claims

Demands

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acids having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acids having an HLB value greater than 4; (b) at least one wax; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and (e) water, wherein the amount of (e) water is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 55% by weight, and more preferably greater than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition does not comprise silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl polymeric esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acid polycondensate, (iii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or branched, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the difference between the HLB values ​​of the (a1) first fatty acid polyglyceryl and the (a2) second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (b) wax is selected from polar waxes, preferably polar ester waxes, more preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants, and even more preferably from the group consisting of jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, oryza sativa (rice) bran wax, and a mixture thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) hydrophilic thickener is selected from non-ionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) oil is selected from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, such as ethylhexyl palmitate.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one powder.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 4 or less; 0.01% to 15% by weight of (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value greater than 4; 0.01% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one wax; 0.001% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; 0.1% to 30% by weight of (d) at least one oil; and more than 50% by weight of (e) water, wherein

10. the composition does not include silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous material.