SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKEUP OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reacting a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups; (ii) at least one high-viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and combinations thereof; and (iii) at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.Figure for the abridged version: none.

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to a lip care and / or makeup composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive features of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to changing the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a wide variety of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the wearer's mood.

[0003] To date, certain cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or skincare and / or lips have been developed.

[0004] Lipsticks that deliver a matte makeup finish are popular with consumers.

[0005] For most matte lipsticks, oil-absorbing fillers and silicone elastomers are used to create a matte and smooth effect to evenly color the entire lip without color difference.

[0006] For some lipsticks that deliver a matte finish on the lips, some of them give a feeling of heaviness and / or dryness, which is not desirable.

[0007] Therefore, there is a need to develop a lipstick that can deliver a good matte finish and a lightweight, non-drying feel. Summary of the invention

[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a lipstick which can deliver a good matte finish and sensations of light weight and non-dryness.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for lip care and / or makeup, which can deliver a good matte finish and sensations of light weight and non-dryness.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reaction of a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups; ii. at least one high-viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and combinations thereof; and iii. at least one load having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g.

[0011] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of components (i) to (iii) mentioned above, the composition according to the present invention can deliver a good matte finish and sensations of low heaviness and non-dryness.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above on the keratinous materials.

[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0015] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0016] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0017] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically cited features as well as any optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically cited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, if necessary, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0019] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention comprises: i. at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reaction of a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups; ii. at least one high-viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and combinations thereof; and iii. at least one load having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g. Cross-linked silicone polymers

[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reaction of a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups.

[0023] Preferably, the at least two vinyl groups are bonded to a silicon atom.

[0024] Preferably, the at least two vinyl groups are located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

[0025] The crosslinked silicone polymer can be obtained by hydrosilylation reaction of the first and second organopolysiloxanes mentioned above, in the presence of a catalyst and an oil, under reaction conditions known to those skilled in the art. The catalyst can be hexachloroplatinic acid or a platinum complex.

[0026] Alternatively, a crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between the first and second organopolysiloxanes described above, in the presence of a catalyst and an oil, can be used.

[0027] The oil used for preparing the crosslinked silicone polymer may be a non-volatile or volatile oil. Isododecane, dimethicone, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane will be cited as solvents.

[0028] Preferably, at least one of the first and second organopolysiloxanes mentioned above mainly comprises dimethylsiloxane motifs, the other motifs possibly being methylhydrogenosiloxane motifs for the first organopolysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy motifs for the second organopolysiloxane.

[0029] As used herein, the term "mainly" means more than 50 mol%, relative to the total mole number of motifs.

[0030] Preferably, the first organopolysiloxane is chosen from among the polydimethylsiloxanes and the poly(dimethyl)(methylhydrogeno)siloxanes comprising at least one Si-H bond.

[0031] Preferably, the second organopolysiloxane is chosen from among the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising two vinyl groups at one end position.

[0032] More preferably, the second organopolysiloxane is chosen from among the copolymers of bis-vinyldimethicone, methylvinylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy termination, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy termination and dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy termination.

[0033] The first organopolysiloxane and the second organopolysiloxane are preferably used in proportions such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms and the total amount of vinyl groups is between 1.5 / 1 and 20 / 1.

[0034] Preferably, the crosslinked silicone polymer is chosen from the reaction products of a first organopolysiloxane chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and poly(dimethyl)(methylhydrogeno)siloxanes comprising at least one Si-H bond, with a polydimethylsiloxane comprising two vinyl groups (more specifically vinyldimethyl groups), preferably located at the end position of the chain.

[0035] Such a polymer is available under the Gransil brand, for example the product Gransil PC-12 or Gransil DMG-6 / LC.

[0036] The crosslinked silicone polymer may be ungelled or gelled with a solvent for said polymer.

[0037] In this description, the term "gelled" means "gelled with a solvent for the polymer".

[0038] The crosslinked silicone polymer is preferably in the form of a gel in the composition.

[0039] For example, the crosslinked silicone polymer gel comprises gelled crosslinked silicone polymer particles trapping molecules of a solvent, which solvent represents between 10% and 95% by weight of the gel. The proportion of solvent contained in the gel can range from 60% to 95% by weight, for example, from 80% to 90% by weight. Such a crosslinked silicone polymer gel can be manufactured by applying high shear to crosslinked silicone polymer particles (which have been previously synthesized from the two organopolysiloxanes described above), said shear being carried out in the presence of a solvent for the crosslinked silicone polymer particles. The shear can be produced in a high-pressure homogenizer, so as to obtain polymer particles gelled with said solvent.

[0040] The solvent that gels the crosslinked silicone polymer particles can be a non-volatile oil or a volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils, silicone non-volatile oils or a mixture thereof.

[0041] Crosslinked silicone polymers whose INCI name corresponds to Polysilicone-11 may be used, and it is preferable to use Polysilicone-11 which is in a gelled form with dimethicone, before its mixing with the other ingredients of the composition, and / or in the composition thus obtained.

[0042] When the crosslinked silicone polymer is in gel form, the quantity of crosslinked silicone polymer present in the composition can be expressed as an equivalent quantity of polymer, it being understood that it would not gel in the absence of the solvent contained in the gel.

[0043] Advantageously, the crosslinked silicone polymer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. High viscosity esters

[0044] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one high viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and their combinations.

[0045] As used herein, the expression "high viscosity ester" refers to an ester having a viscosity of at least 10,000 cps at 30 °C.

[0046] Preferably, the high viscosity ester according to the present invention has a viscosity ranging from 20,000 cps to 500,000 cps at 30 °C, preferably from 30,000 cps to 300,000 cps at 30 °C, and more preferably from 50,000 cps to 200,000 cps at 30 °C.

[0047] Viscosity can be determined at 30 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), using a Rheomat RM200 viscometer equipped with an M3 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of spindle rotation in the test sample (time at the end of which the stabilization of the viscosity and the spindle rotation speed is observed), at a shear speed of 200 rpm.

[0048] Sugar esters

[0049] As used herein, the term "sugar" means an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups or an organic compound that can be hydrolyzed to generate an aldehyde and / or ketone having two or more hydroxyl groups.

[0050] These esters are derived from hydroxyl groups of a sugar and one or more fractions of carboxylic acid.

[0051] Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature.

[0052] Suitable liquid esters may include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetralinoleate, mannose tetralinoleate, galactose tetraoleate, arabinose tetralinoleate, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexalinoleate, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; raffinose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; sucrose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and sucrose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester fractions are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4.

[0054] Preferably, the liquid ester is chosen from Ci-C30 monoesters, in particular Ci-Ci8 monoesters, sugar polyesters and their combinations.

[0055] More preferably, the sugar ester is chosen from among the C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, in particular the C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose.

[0056] More preferably, the sugar ester is chosen from among the mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.

[0057] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises sucrose acetate isobutyrate, such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by Eastman Chemical (name INCI: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which has a viscosity of approximately 100,000 mPa.s at 30°C.

[0058] Polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid

[0059] As used here, the dicarboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and preferably comprises from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, it more preferably comprises from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0060] As used here, diglycerol refers to a viscous hygroscopic liquid polyhydroxyether O(CH2CHOHCH2OH)2 prepared by dehydration of glycerol.

[0061] As used here, the monocarboxylic acid is optionally hydroxylated, and may be linear or branched. Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0062] Preferably, the polyester is obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as that bearing the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, which is notably sold under the reference Softisan 649 by Cremer Oleo.

[0063] More preferably, the composition comprises bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

[0064] Advantageously, the high viscosity ester is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0065] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g.

[0066] As used here, the "oil absorption capacity" is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below:

[0067] A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and the addition of oil continues until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated. using a spatula. Stop adding oil when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The weight (expressed in grams) of the oil used is then noted.

[0068] The oil intake corresponds to the g / g ratio.

[0069] Preferably, the filler is chosen from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas.

[0070] The expression "hydrophobically modified amorphous silica" means, in the context of the present invention, an amorphous silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.

[0071] Examples of hydrophobically modified amorphous silica include silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate and silica cetyl silylate.

[0072] According to some preferred embodiments, the filler is selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] According to a specific embodiment, the hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas used in the composition of the invention are of sublimed origin. They are preferably supplied in powder form.

[0074] Hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas of sublimed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then rendered hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes, or silazanes. The hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol groups and by a lower water vapor adsorption.

[0075] According to this embodiment, the filler is preferably chosen from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas having a specific surface area of ​​50 to 500 m² / g and a number-average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. More particularly, it refers to the hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas described in the following table, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] [Tables 1] Trade name Aerosil R 202 (Evonik D egussa) Aerosil R 805 (Evonik D egussa) Aerosil R 812 (Evonik D egussa) Aerosil R 972 (Evonik D egussa) Aerosil R 974 (Evonik D egussa) Surface B ET (m2 / g) 90 + 20 150 + 25 260 + 30 110 + 20 170 + 20 Average particle size (nm) 14 12 7 16 12

[0077] Preferably, as a hydrophobically modified amorphous silica, hydrophobic sublimated silica surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane is used, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa.

[0078] According to another specific embodiment, the hydrophobically modified amorphous silica used in the composition of the invention is in the form of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.

[0079] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0080] They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, typically by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0081] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles useful in the present invention may preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SW) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and even better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), of 1 to 1500 pm, even better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, more preferably 5 to 25 pm, even better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.

[0082] According to certain embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed in average diameter in volume (D[0,5]), also known as median particle size in volume Dv50) ranging from 1 to 30 qm, preferably from 5 to 25 qm, better still from 5 to 20 qm and even better still from 5 to 15 qm.

[0083] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society," Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered. The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0084] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), of 5 to 20 pm and even better of 5 to 15 pm.

[0085] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention advantageously have a packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.

[0086] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as packed density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0087] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then The specimen is placed on the Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 apparatus; it is then subjected to a series of 2500 compaction movements (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured on the specimen. The compacted density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in the case of point 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and w in g).

[0088] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 2 3 2 3 2 3 m / cm, preferably from 10 to 50 m / cm and even better from 15 to 40 m / cm.

[0089] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp where p is the packed density, expressed in g / cm3, and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

[0090] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and even better from 8 to 12 mL / g.

[0091] With regard to the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to US patent 7,470,725.

[0092] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.

[0093] Aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning will be used in particular, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0094] Most preferably, the filler is chosen from silica silylate aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 15 pm.

[0095] Advantageously, the filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0096] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more pigments.

[0097] The term “pigments” should be understood as designating white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.

[0098] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0099] Among organic pigments, particular examples include metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides; chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, iron blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Parmi les pigments organiques pouvant en particulier être mentionnés figurent ceux connus sous les noms suivants : D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No.7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No.17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake. .

[0101] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

[0102] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, phosphates of perfluoroalkyl, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, organopolysiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylaminated acids or their salts; lecithin, triisostearyl isopropyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, the pigment is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and their mixtures.

[0104] More preferably, the pigment is chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Advantageously, the pigment is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 16% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils)

[0106] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more oils.

[0107] As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0108] The oil can be a vegetable oil or a synthetic oil.

[0109] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, an oil of silicone or similar; a polar oil such as an ester oil or fatty alcohol; or a mixture thereof.

[0110] Hydrocarbon oils are preferably selected from:

[0111] - lower linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0112] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0113] The ester oils are preferably selected from liquid esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0114] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] These esters may be, for example, malates, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, isostearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0116] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0117] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Cr C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0118] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; diisostearyl malate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0119] Examples of ester oils may also be cited as triglycerides, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0120] Examples of silicone oils may be cited, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0122] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; and ii. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C.

[0123] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0124] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0125] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0126] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C3-C20 aliphatic monoacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof; most preferentially chosen from dimethicone, undecane, tridecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0128] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more other ingredients commonly used in the field concerned.

[0129] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from additional fillers such as lauroyl lysine, preservatives such as ethylhexyl glycerin, pentylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol, stabilizers such as disteardimonium hectorite, film-forming agents such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, perfumes, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] It is a routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one crosslinked silicone polymer selected from the reaction products of a first organopolysiloxane selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and poly(dimethyl) (methylhydrogeno)siloxanes comprising at least one Si-H bond, with a polydimethylsiloxane comprising two vinyl groups, more specifically vinyldimethyl groups, preferably located at the end position of the chain; b. from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one high-viscosity ester selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose and polyesters obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid; and c. 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one filler selected from silica silylate aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 15 pm.

[0132] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0133] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. pharmaceutical form and use

[0134] The composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a lip gloss, and the like.

[0135] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

[0136] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic process for the care / makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above on the keratinous materials.

[0137] In particular, keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips. EXAMPLES

[0138] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0139] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 2.

[0140] [Tables2] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sucrose acetate isobutyrate Eastman™ SAIB-100 EASTMAN CHEMICAL Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 SOFTISAN 649 CREMER OLEO Silica silylate DOWSIL™ VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles DOW Dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer X-25-7034H SHIN ETSU Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 Gransil DMG-6 / LC GRANT INDUSTRIE S Dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone (Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer) DOWSIL™ EL-9241 DM Silicone Elastom er Blend DOW Trimethylsiloxysilicate BELSIL TMS 803 WACKER Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Hydro genated polyisobutene) PARLEAM NOF CORPORAT ION Undecane (and) tridecane (Undecane (and) tridecane) Cetiol Ultimate BASF Lauroyl Lysine AMIHOPE LL AJINOMOTO

[0141] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0142] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1 and 2 and of comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 were prepared with the raw materials listed in Table 3 (the contents are expressed as a percentage by weight of each raw material, MA means active ingredient):

[0143] [Tables3] Raw materials El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Sucrose isobutyrate acetate 3 - 3 - - Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 - 3 - - 3 Disteardimonium hectorite 1 1 1 1 1 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer 8.5 8.5 13.8 8.5 8.5 Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 3.7 (MA) 3.7 (MA) - 3.7 (MA) 3.7 (MA) Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosslinked polymer 11 11 25 11 11 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 4 4 ​​4 4 4 Silica silylate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - Lauroyl Lysine 14 14 14 14 14 Pigments (Red 7 and iron oxides) 8 8 8 8 8 Diisostearyl malate 5.8 5.8 5.8 5.8 5.8 Isostearyl isostearate 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 3 3 3 3 3 Undecane (and) tridecane QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0144] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0145] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reaction of a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups.

[0146] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one high viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and their combinations.

[0147] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g.

[0148] Preparation procedure:

[0149] The detailed procedure for preparing the above compositions is as follows: 1. First, hydrogenated polyisobutene, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl isostearate, high viscosity esters (sucrose acetate isobutyrate and / or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 as appropriate) were mixed to obtain an oily phase, which was heated to 60°C to ensure complete melting of the high viscosity esters, then cooled to room temperature; 2. The pigments were ground in a three-roller mill in a portion of the oily phase; 3. The disteardimonium hectorite was thoroughly mixed with the remaining oily phase, undecane (and) tridecane and the ground pigments until a homogeneous mixture was obtained; 4. Silicone elastomers (dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosslinked polymer / vinyl dimethicone and / or dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 and / or dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosslinked polymer) were added with stirring to the homogeneous mixture and homogenization was continued until the mixture was homogeneous; 5. Ethylhexyl glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, trimethylsiloxysilicate, lauroyl lysine and silica silylate were added to the homogeneous mixture obtained in 4) with stirring; 6. Finally, the resulting compositions were poured into small jars and then placed at room temperature for 24 hours.

[0150] Evaluation:

[0151] An evaluation of the level of dullness, the feeling of heaviness and the feeling of non-dryness after application of the compositions prepared above was carried out.

[0152] Matte finish is used to assess the level of lip shine provided by lip products. Matte finish was assessed by 6 skin experts using the following steps:

[0153] First, the compositions of the invention and comparative examples were applied three times to the same area of ​​the lips using the same force, respectively. 5 minutes later, a D65 lamp was used to illuminate the area and check the level of light reflection (brightness).

[0154] Scores were then given regarding the matte finish according to the following standard:

[0155] 5: low gloss;

[0156] 4: low to medium gloss;

[0157] 3: medium gloss;

[0158] 2: medium to high gloss;

[0159] 1: high gloss.

[0160] The higher the score, the less shine there is (the more matte it is), the better.

[0161] The sensation of heaviness is used to assess the feeling of weight on the lips caused by lip products. It is the sensation that the lips are overloaded and cannot breathe freely. The sensation of heaviness was assessed by 6 skin experts by applying lipstick to both sides of the upper lip using the same pressure. After application, the lips were held still for 5 minutes, and then the sensation of heaviness was noted according to the following standard.

[0162] 5: slight sensation of heaviness;

[0163] 4: sensation of slight to medium heaviness;

[0164] 3: sensation of medium heaviness;

[0165] 2: sensation of medium to high heaviness;

[0166] 1: sensation of high heaviness.

[0167] The higher the score, the less the feeling of heaviness, the better.

[0168] The sensation of non-dryness was assessed by 6 skin experts using the following steps following:

[0169] First, the compositions of the invention and comparative examples were applied three times to the same area of ​​the lips using the same force, respectively. Three hours later, the sensation of non-dryness was noted according to the hydration level as a function of the following standard:

[0170] 5: Very good;

[0171] 4: overall good;

[0172] 3: acceptable;

[0173] 2: slightly mediocre and unacceptable;

[0174] 1: mediocre, unacceptable.

[0175] The average scores for matte finish and the sensations of heaviness and non-dryness delivered by the lipsticks in the inventive and comparative examples have been summarized in Table 4.

[0176] [Tables4] Properties EI.1 EI.2 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 Dullness 4.5 4.2 4.8 4.6 3.1 Feeling of heaviness 4.2 4.5 2.3 4.7 4.3 Feeling of non-dryness 4.8 4.4 3.5 2.9 4.5

[0177] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 can simultaneously deliver a good matte finish, and sensations of low heaviness and non-dryness upon application, while the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 3 are not good in terms of at least one of a matte finish, sensations of heaviness and non-dryness delivered.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising: (i) at least one crosslinked silicone polymer obtained by reaction of a first organopolysiloxane comprising at least one Si-H group with a second organopolysiloxane comprising at least two vinyl groups; (ii) at least one high-viscosity ester selected from sugar esters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and combinations thereof; and (iii) at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the first and second organopolysiloxanes comprises mainly dimethylsiloxane motifs, the other motifs being optionally methylhydrogenosiloxane motifs for the first organopolysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy motifs for the second organopolysiloxane, preferably the first organopolysiloxane and the second organopolysiloxane are used in proportions such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms and the total amount of vinyl groups is between 1.5 / 1 and 20 / 1.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first organopolysiloxane is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and poly(dimethyl)(methylhydrogeno)siloxanes comprising at least one Si-H bond, and the second organopolysiloxane is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising two vinyl groups at one end position.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the crosslinked silicone polymer is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the sugar ester is selected from the monoesters in Ci-C30, in in particular CrCi8 monoesters, sugar polyesters, and their combinations, preferably C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, more preferably C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose, even more preferably the composition includes sucrose acetate isobutyrate.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, the dicarboxylic acid being linear or branched, and preferably comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, and the monocarboxylic acid being linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, and preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably the polyesters resulting from the condensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diglycerol ester and at least one monocarboxylic acid, and combinations thereof, are obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid,capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, more preferably, the composition includes bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the filler is selected from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas, preferably selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silica silylate aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) of 5 to 15 pm.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one crosslinked silicone polymer selected from the reaction products of a first organopolysiloxane selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and poly(dimethyl)(methylhydrogeno)siloxanes comprising at least one Si-H bond, with a polydimethylsiloxane comprising two vinyl groups, more specifically vinyldimethyl groups, preferably located at the end position of the chain; (b) from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one high-viscosity ester selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose and polyesters obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C24 fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid; and c) from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one filler selected from silica silylate aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 15 pm.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 on keratinous materials.