NEW COPOLYMERS; PROCESS FOR THEIR PREPARATION; USE IN COSMETICS; COSMETIC FORMULATIONS INCLUDING

Natural copolymers derived from 3-methylene-dihydro-2(3 H)-furanone and methylene-1,4-butanedioic acid address the need for eco-friendly, sensory-acceptable thickening agents in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, offering stable and effective formulations.

FR3171051A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-07-10SOC DEXPLOITATION DE PROD POUR LES IND CHEM SEPPIC

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
SOC DEXPLOITATION DE PROD POUR LES IND CHEM SEPPIC
Filing Date
2025-01-08
Publication Date
2026-07-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

The cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical industries seek eco-friendly, petrochemical-free thickening agents that provide comparable performance to existing synthetic polymers while offering improved sensory properties and biodegradability.

Method used

Development of linear or crosslinked copolymers derived from naturally sourced monomers, specifically 3-methylene-dihydro-2(3 H)-furanone and methylene-1,4-butanedioic acid, with controlled molar ratios, and a polymerization process using solvents and crosslinking agents to create a stable, sensory-acceptable thickening agent.

Benefits of technology

The copolymers offer a sustainable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, providing smooth, lump-free gels with improved tactile properties and effective thickening, stabilization, and emulsification in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

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Abstract

New copolymers; process for their preparation; use in cosmetics; cosmetic formulations comprising them. The invention relates to new linear or crosslinked copolymers made up of monomeric units derived from Tupalin A and itaconic acid, the process for their preparation, their use in dermocosmetics or dermopharmacy and topical formulations comprising them.
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Description

Title of the invention: Novel copolymers; process for their preparation; use in cosmetics; cosmetic formulations comprising Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention falls within the field of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The invention relates more particularly to new thickening agents of natural origin. Prior art

[0002] Polymers are widely used today in topical formulations for applications in the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical, and dermopharmaceutical industries. Most of them are rheology modifiers, which thicken polar phases, such as water. Among the synthetic aqueous-phase thickening polymers are linear or cross-linked polyelectrolytes, which have the ability to unfold in a polar solvent due to their affinity for these phases and thanks to electrostatic repulsions resulting from the presence of charges on their polymer backbone. This unfolding in polar phases, creating a polymer network, results in increased viscosity and improved consistency, as well as stabilization in oil-based formulations, such as gel-creams or emulsions.

[0003] Examples of such polymers include cross-linked polyelectrolytes, which have the ability to unfold in polar solvents, notably due to electrostatic repulsion forces resulting from the presence of electrical charges on their polymer backbone. This phenomenon allows the formation of a polymer network that induces an increase in viscosity, consistency, and stabilization of formulations such as oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, with or without emulsifying surfactants, or gel-creams free of emulsifying surfactants. These polymers generally result from the polymerization of acrylate or methacrylate monomers, or monomers derived from acrylamide or its derivatives.

[0004] Examples of cross-linked polyelectrolytes commercially available or disclosed in the literature include: - The homopolymer of acrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, the homopolymer of methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, the homopolymer of 2-methyl-((l-oxo-) 2-propenyl) amino)-l-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, copolymers of acrylic acid, partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and AMPS, copolymers of methacrylic acid, partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and AMPS, acrylamide and AMPS copolymers partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, vinylpyrolidone and AMPS copolymers partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate or (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and hydroxyethylacrylamide, or hydroxyethylmethacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, N,N-diethyl acrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) methacrylamide or N,N-dipropyl acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted by a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and tris(hydroxymethyl) acrylamidomethane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and THAM, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, N,N-diethyl acrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) methacrylamide, or N,N-dipropyl acrylamide, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, of AMPS partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and of (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and of THAM, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt; of AMPS partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt; and of N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, N,N-diethyl acrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)methacrylamide, or N,N-dipropyl acrylamide, - branched or crosslinked terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt, and of acrylamide or methacrylamide, - copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, and of alkyl acrylates or alkyl methacrylate whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms, and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, and - copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted by a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and alkyl acrylates or alkyl methacrylate whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms.

[0005] Today, these polymers, whether in the form of self-reversing inverse latexes, concentrated inverse latexes, or powders, make it possible to meet customer needs in terms of thickening performance in a polar solvent such as water. The aqueous gels obtained by dispersing them in this solvent have a smooth, grain-free, and lump-free appearance, with particular tactile sensory properties, as well as ease of gripping and application to the skin.

[0006] Despite the significant commercial supply, the demand for new The use of aqueous phase thickeners in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical formulations remains relevant because the polymers currently used are predominantly petrochemical in origin, while user industries are committed to eco-design. It is therefore necessary to develop alternative thickeners that, while possessing comparable properties, have an improved environmental profile, either through their origin or that of their precursors, or through their biodegradability.

[0007] It is known to those skilled in the art that hydrocolloids, polysaccharides, or proteins can exhibit thickening, gelling, and stabilizing properties. However, these natural products very often have unsatisfactory sensory properties, giving cosmetic formulas a sticky, stringy, and soapy feel.

[0008] The inventors therefore sought to develop new thickening polymers that are synthesized from naturally sourced monomers and that provide topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations with a sensory profile accepted by the end user. Description of the invention

[0009] This is why, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a linear or crosslinked copolymer made up of monomeric units derived from 3-methylene-dihydro-2(3 H)-furanone of formula (I): and monomeric units derived from methylene-1,4-butanedioic acid of formula (II): (II) in which the molar ratio RA having as numerator the number of moles of monomeric units from compound of formula (I) and as denominator the number of moles of monomeric units from compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 0.4 and less than or equal to 3.0.

[0010] Within the scope of the present invention, the monomers of formulas (I) and (II) as defined above are commercially available and can be obtained from biomass. Alpha-methylene-gamma-butyrolactone is known as Tulipalin A and methylene-1,4-butanedioic acid of formula (II) is known as itaconic acid.

[0011] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above is characterized in that said molar ratio RA is greater than or equal to 1.5 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0012] According to another particular aspect of the present invention where the copolymer as defined above is crosslinked and the molar ratio RB having as numerator the number of moles of monomeric units from the crosslinking monomer and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of monomeric units from the compound of formula (I) and moles of monomeric units from the compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 0.0010 and less than or equal to 0.0070 and is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.0020 and less than or equal to 0.0060.

[0013] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, when the copolymer as defined above is crosslinked, the monomeric units resulting from the crosslinking monomer are of a compound selected from the group consisting of methylene bis(acrylamide) (MBA) (CA Number = 110-26-9), pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (PETA) (CA Number = 4986-89-4), trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA) (CA Number = 15625-89-5), triallylamine (TAA), pentaerythritol triallylether (APE) (CA Number = 1471-17-6), 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate (HDDA) (CA Number = 13048-33-4), ethylene glycol diacrylate (EGDA) (CA Number = 2274-11-5) and sodium diallyloxyacetate (DAOAS) and, more particularly, in the group consisting of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (PETA) and propane trimethylol triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0014] The invention also relates to a process for preparing the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above, comprising the following successive steps: • a step a) of making available: • of a solvent selected from the group comprising water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate or a mixture of two or more of them; • said monomer of formula (II) and said monomer of formula (I) in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'A, where the numerator is the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and the denominator is the number of moles of compound of formula (II), is greater than or equal to 0.4 and less than or equal to 3.0; and • optionally said crosslinking monomer selected from the group consisting of methylene bis(acrylamide), pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, triallylamine pentaerythritol triallylether, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate and sodium diallyloxyacetate, in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'B having as numerator the number of moles of crosslinking monomer and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and of compound of formula (II), is greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 0.007; • a step b) of adding all the moles of compound of formula (II) into the solvent made available in step a) to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), • optionally a step c) of partial or total neutralization of the compound of formula (II), by adding a base to said solution or dispersion formed in step b), to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II) partially or totally neutralized; a step d) of adding either part or all of the moles of compound of formula (I) made available in step a) into said solution or dispersion formed in step b) or into said solution or dispersion formed in step c), to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, and of said compound of formula (I); optionally a step e) of adding either part or all of the moles of crosslinking monomer into said solution or dispersion obtained in step d), to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step f) of deoxygenating said solution or dispersion obtained in step d), or optional step e), by bubbling through it an inert gas, more particularly nitrogen, for a period greater than or equal to 30 minutes and less than or equal to 90 minutes, to obtain a deoxygenated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step g) of heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C of said solution or dispersion obtained in step f), to obtain a deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step h) of polymerization of the monomers present within said deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion obtained in step g), by addition of a polymerization initiator, more particularly dilauroyl peroxide or 2,2'-azobis(2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochloride and maintenance at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 300 minutes, to obtain a precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally of said monomer of formula (II) not having reacted within said solvent made available in step a); • optionally an addition step i) to said solvent obtained in step h), comprising the precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally said unreacted monomer of formula (II), of the remainder of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of the remainder of said crosslinking monomer made available in step a), followed by polymerization of the remainder of the monomers present by addition of a polymerization initiator, particularly dilauroyl peroxide or 2,2'-azobis(2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochloride, maintaining the temperature at a value greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 300 minutes, to obtain a dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected; • a step j) of cooling said dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer obtained in step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 30°C; and • either a step k) of filtering said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to collect said optionally crosslinked expected copolymer followed by a step 1) of drying said optionally crosslinked collected copolymer, • or a step m) of atomizing said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to obtain said optionally crosslinked expected copolymer in powder form.

[0015] According to a particular aspect of the process for preparing the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above, steps b), c) optional, d) and e) optional are simultaneous and constitute a step B).

[0016] According to another particular aspect of the process for preparing the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above, the solvent made available in step a) is either water, tert-butanol, or a tert-butanol-water mixture.

[0017] According to this particular aspect, the said linear or crosslinked copolymer process more particularly comprises the following successive steps: - a step a) of making available: • of a tert-butanol-water mixture comprising, for 100% by mass, a mass proportion greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 98% by mass of tert-butanol and a mass proportion greater than or equal to 2% by mass and less than or equal to 10% by mass of water; • said monomer of formula (II) and said monomer of formula (I) in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'A having as numerator the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and as denominator the number of moles of compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 1.0 and less than or equal to 3.0; and optionally; • said crosslinking monomer selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate and propane trimethylol triacrylate, in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'B having as numerator the number of moles of crosslinking monomer and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and of compound of formula (II), is greater than or equal to 0.003 and less than or equal to 0.005; a step B) of adding to said tert-butanol-water mixture in the solvent made available in step a) all the moles of compound of formula (II) of said compound of formula (II), 50% of the moles of compound of formula (I) and optionally 50% of the moles of said crosslinking monomer to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), said compound of formula (I) and optionally said crosslinking monomer; a step f) of deoxygenating said solution or dispersion obtained in step B), by bubbling nitrogen through it, for a period greater than or equal to 45 minutes and less than or equal to 60 minutes, to obtain a deoxygenated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step g) of heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 85°C of said solution or dispersion obtained in step f), to obtain a deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step h) of polymerization of the monomers present within said deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion obtained in step g), by addition of dilauroyl peroxide and maintenance at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 75°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 200 minutes to obtain a precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally of said monomer of formula (II) not having reacted within said solvent made available in step a) and; a step (i) of adding to said solvent obtained in step (h), comprising the precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally said unreacted monomer of formula (II), the remainder of said compound of formula (I) and optionally the remainder of said crosslinking monomer made available in step (a), followed by polymerization of the remainder monomers present by addition of dilauroyl peroxide and maintained at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 75°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for a duration greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 200 minutes, to obtain a dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected; - a step j) of cooling said dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer obtained in step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 30°C; and - either a step k) of filtering said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to collect said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected followed by a step 1) of drying said optionally crosslinked copolymer collected, - or a step m) of atomizing said cooled dispersion obtained in step j) to obtain said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected in powder form.

[0018] The process as defined above makes it possible to obtain copolymers of natural origin which are interesting substitutes for petroleum-based polymers still used today in dermocosmetics or dermopharmacy.

[0019] Therefore, the invention also relates to the use of the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above, for thickening, stabilizing or emulsifying a topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation or for suspending solid particles therein; as well as a topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation characterized in that it comprises, for 100.0% of its mass, from 0.1% to 10.0% by mass and more particularly from 0.5% to 5.0% by mass of the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined above, as a thickening agent, as a stabilizing agent or as an emulsifying agent of said topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation or as an agent suitable and intended for suspending solid particles within said topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation.

[0020] The solid particles suspended in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above have a regular or irregular geometry and are generally in the form of beads, spheres, rods, flakes, flakes, or polyhedra. They are characterized by an apparent average diameter of between one micrometer and five millimeters, more particularly between ten micrometers and one millimeter. Examples of such solid particles include micas, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, talc, silica, kaolin, clays, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, inorganic colored pigments, polyamides such as nylon-6, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, and polystyrenes, polyesters, acrylic or methacrylic polymers such as polymethyl methacrylates, polytetrafluoroethylene, crystalline or microcrystalline waxes, porous spheres, selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithione, starches, alginates, plant fibers, loofah particles or sponge particles.

[0021] In the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above, the adjective topical means that said formulation is implemented by application to the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application or an indirect application when the topical composition according to the invention is impregnated on a support intended to be brought into contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc.).

[0022] The topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, as defined above, may be in any physical form, for example, as an aqueous hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic gel; a solution; a powder; a suspension; an emulsion; a microemulsion; or a nanoemulsion, whether water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water, or oil-in-water-in-oil. It may be packaged in a bottle, in a pump-type device, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device with a perforated wall such as a grid, or in a device with a rollerball applicator (known as a "roll-on").

[0023] Generally, the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above may also include one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable ingredient components, whether they are active ingredients or excipients such as foaming, non-foaming or detergent surfactants, thickening or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, solubilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorizing agents, bleaching agents intended for the decolorization of hair and skin,Active ingredients intended to provide a treatment or protective action on the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturizing agents, optical brighteners, insect repellents.

[0024] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the aforementioned ingredients means, according to the Community Council Directive European Economic Directive No. 76 / 768 / EEC of 27 July 1976, as amended by Directive No. 93 / 35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, states that the said excipient (E) comprises water and any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the mouth with a view exclusively and principally to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance or correcting their body odours or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.

[0025] The expression "pharmaceutically acceptable" used in the definition of the aforementioned ingredients means that these ingredients are listed in the Pharmacopoeia of the State in which said formulation is used.

[0026] Examples of foaming surfactants, optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject as defined above, include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic foaming or detergent surfactants.

[0027] Examples of anionic foaming surfactants include alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, and amino alcohol salts: - alkyl ether sulfates, such as C12-14 sodium myristyl ether sulfate with 3.5 moles of ethylene oxide, C12-14 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles of ethylene oxide, Cl2-14 ammonium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles of ethylene oxide, C12-14 monoisopropylamine lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles of ethylene oxide in propylene glycol, Cl2-14 triisopropylamine lauryl ether sulfate with 2 moles of ethylene oxide in propylene glycol, C12-14 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 3 moles of ethylene oxide, C12-14 ammonium lauryl ether sulfate with 3 moles of ethylene oxide, Cl2-15 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 3 moles ethylene oxide, C8-10 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 3 moles of ethylene oxide, C8-10 ammonium lauryl ether sulfate with 3 moles of ethylene oxide, C9-11 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.5 moles of ethylene oxide, C9-11 ammonium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.5 moles of ethylene oxide,C9-11 lauryl ether ammonium sulfate with 2.5 moles of ethylene oxide in hexylene glycol; - alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, ammonium cocoyl sulfate, magnesium cocoyl sulfate; - alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; - alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylcarboxylates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates; - N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, magnesium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, magnesium lauroyl glycinate, ammonium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, magnesium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, magnesium cocoyl glycinate, ammonium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, magnesium cocoyl glutamate, ammonium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, cocoyl magnesium aspartate, ammonium cocoyl aspartate;or mixtures comprising said N-acylated derivatives of amino acids such as those marketed, for example, under the brand names Proteol™OAT, Proteol™ APL, Oramix™L30; ; - acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, potassium cocoyl isethionate, magnesium cocoyl isethionate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, potassium lauroyl isethionate, magnesium lauroyl isethionate, ammonium lauroyl isethionate; - N-acyltaurates, such as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, magnesium methyl cocoyl taurate, ammonium methyl cocoyl taurate or - acyllactylates.

[0028] Among the foaming amphoteric surfactants, the following may be mentioned: - alkyl betaines, such as lauryl betaine, cocoyl betaine, myristyl betaine; - alkylamidobetaines, such as lauramidopropyl betaine, the sodium salt of cocamidopropyl betaine, 1-propanaminium, 3-amino-N- (carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-, or the composition marketed under the brand name Amonyl™380 BA; - sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, or the composition marketed under the brand name Amonyl™675 SB or - imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

[0029] Among the cationic foaming surfactants, quaternary ammonium derivatives can be particularly mentioned.

[0030] Among non-ionic foaming surfactants, particular examples include alkyl polyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as n-octyl polyglucoside, n-decyl polyglucoside, n-undecylenyl polyglucoside, n-dodecyl polyglucoside, n-tetradecyl polyglucoside, n-hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-alkylamines;

[0031] Examples of thickening or gelling agents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above include: - fatty esters of alkylpolyglycosides possibly alkoxylated, such as ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed respectively under the names GLUCAMATE™ LT and GLUMATE™ DOE120; - alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX™ DS53, - PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate, marketed under the name ANTIL™ 141, - fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ T211, or PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ GT2125; - cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, - starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, polyurethanes, silicates and phyllosilicates such as aluminium silicates, magnesium silicates, aluminium or magnesium silicates, kaolinite, montmorillonite, illite, beidellite, saponite, bentonite, hectorite, vermiculite, serpentine, nacrite, amesite, nontronite, lizardite, beidellite, sericite, halloylsite, muscovite, paragonite, damouzite, glauconite or celadonite;branched or crosslinked polyelectrolytes, anionic, cationic or amphoteric such as branched or crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or 2-methyl-[(l-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-l-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt; copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and of AMPS partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt; branched or crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide or vinylpyrolidone and of AMPS partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt;branched or crosslinked copolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate or (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, hydroxyethylacrylamide, hydroxyethylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, N,N-diethyl acrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)methacrylamide, N,N-dipropyl acrylamide or tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamido methane (THAM);branched or crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, hydroxyethylacrylamide, hydroxyethylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N,N-diethylacrylamide, N,N-diethylmethacrylamide, N-methyl; acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)methacrylamide, N,N-dipropyl acrylamide or tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamido methane (THAM); branched or crosslinked terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, of AMPS partially or totally salified with a sodium, ammonium, or potassium salt, and of (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, hydroxyethylacrylamide, hydroxyethylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N,N-diethylacrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)methacrylamide, N,N-dipropyl acrylamide, tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamido methane (THAM); acrylamide, or methacrylamide; branched or crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt and an alkyl acrylate or alkyl methacrylate having a carbon chain comprising between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms; branched or crosslinked terpolymers of AMPS partially or totally salted with a sodium, ammonium or potassium salt,with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of the formula CH2=C(R'3)-C(=O)-[CH2-CH2-O]n-R' in which R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched alkyl radical comprising eight to thirty carbon atoms and more particularly a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radical octyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6-methylheptyl, 15-methylpendadecyl, 16- , methyl heptadecyl, 2-hexyl octyl, 2-octyl decyl or 2-hexyl dodecyl, and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty; homopolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium, N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(l-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium, diallyl dimethylammonium, N,N,N-trimethyl 2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl)]ethanammonium, and more particularly of N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium chloride (MAMPTAC™), N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(l-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC™), diallyl dimethylammonium chloride (DADMAC™), or N,N,N-trimethyl 2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl)] ethanammonium (MADQUAT™; Branched or crosslinked copolymers of N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium chloride, N,N,N-trimethyl 3-[(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino]propanammonium chloride, diallyl dimethylammonium chloride or N,N,N-Trimethyl 2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo 2-propenyl)] ethanammonium with acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrolidone, (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, hydroxyethylacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl acrylamide, N,N-dimethyl methacrylamide, N,N-diethyl acrylamide, N,N-diethyl methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-propyl acrylamide, N-isopropyl acrylamide, N-butyl acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl) acrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-propyl methacrylamide, N-isopropyl methacrylamide, N-butyl methacrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)methacrylamide, N,N-dipropyl acrylamide or tris(hydroxymethyl) acrylamido methane (THAM); the polymers commercialized under the brand names CARBOPOL™, PEMULEN™, ARISTOFLEX™ , ARISTOFLEX ™AVC, ARISTOFLEX ™AVS, ARISTOFLEX ™HMB, SEPIMAX™ Zen, SEPIMAX™ C, SEPIGEL™ 305, SEPIGEL™ 501, SEPIGEL™ 502, SIMULGEL™ 600, SIMULGEL™ EG, SIMULGEL™ EPG, SIMULGEL™ NS, SIMULGEL™ INS 100, SIMULGEL™ FL, SIMULGEL™ SMS 88, SIMULGEL™ 800, SIMULGEL™ A, SEPIPLUS™ 400, SEPIPLUS™ 250, SEPIPLUS™ S, SEPIPLUS™ NUDE, SEPILIFE™ G305, F1OCARE™ ET 25, F1OCARE™ ET 75, F1OCARE™ ET 26, F1OCARE™ ET 30, F1OCARE™ ET 58, F1OCARE™ PSD 30, VISCOLAM™ AT 64, VISCOLAM™ AT 100P, VISCOLAM™ AT EF, NOVEMER™ EC-1, NOVEMER™ EC-2, COSMEDIA™ SP, COSMEDIA™ ACE, SEPINOV™ EMT 10, SEPINOV™ WEO and SEPINOV™ P88; - non-crosslinked polysaccharide thickening or gelling agents such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), carob gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1); sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans.

[0032] The solubilizing agents used in the context of the present invention are substances or chemical compositions that allow the solubilization of hydrophobic substances, insoluble in water, the aqueous phase, the hydroalcoholic phase, or the hydroglycolic phase, such as perfumer and flavoring substances. Examples of such agents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, as defined above, include: - Polysorbates, such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60 and Polysorbate 80; - alkyl polyglycoside compositions whose linear or branched alkyl chain comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as n-butyl polyglucoside, n-butyl polyxyloside, n-pentyl polyglucoside, n-pentyl polyxyloside, n-hexyl polyglucoside, n-hexyl polyxyloside, n-heptyl polyglucoside, n-heptyl polyxyloside, n-octyl polyglucoside, n-octyl polyxyloside, n-nonyl polyglucoside, n-nonyl polyxyloside, n-decyl polyglucoside, n-decyl polyxyloside; - Ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula R10-(OE)n'-H, RIO, representing a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and representing an integer greater than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 200, more particularly greater than or equal to 5 and less than or equal to 100, more particularly greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 100; for example, compounds of formula R10-(OE)n'-H, RIO, representing the radical dodecyl and n representing an integer greater than or equal to 7 and less than or equal to 25; - polyethoxylated fatty acids of formula R20-C(=O)-(OE)m', R20 representing a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly from 12 to 18 and m' representing an integer greater than or equal to 10 and less than or equal to 100, more particularly greater than or equal to 15 and less than or equal to 100, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 15 and less than or equal to 50; - hydrogenated and ethoxylated oils, and more particularly those comprising at least one triglyceride or one diglyceride or one monoglyceride such as hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil with 40 moles of ethylene oxide marketed under the name "PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil";

[0033] Examples of emulsifying agents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of the subject of use or invention as defined above may be cited as those selected from the elements of the group consisting of alkyl polyglycoside compositions and in particular alkyl polyglucosides and alkyl polyxylosides, alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol compositions, polyglycerol esters and in particular decaglycerol oleate, decaglycerol isostearate, decaglycerol monolaurate, decaglycerol monolinoleate, decaglycerol monomyristate, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.

[0034] Examples of oils optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above include: - linear alkanes containing eleven to nineteen carbon atoms, such as undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane and nonadecane; - branched alkanes, containing from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopendatecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane), or mixtures of some of them such as those listed below and identified by their INCI name: C7.8 isoparaffin, C8.9 isoparaffin, C9.11 isoparaffin, G, isoparaffin, C9.13 isoparaffin, C9.14 isoparaffin, C9.16 isoparaffin, Cmn isoparaffin, Cio. 12 isoparaffin, C1013 isoparaffin, Cn.12 isoparaffin, Cn.13 isoparaffin, Cm U isoparaffin, u isoparaffin, Ci2_2o isoparaffin, Ci3_i4 isoparaffin, Ci346 isoparaffin; cycloalkanes optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals; white mineral oils, such as those marketed under the following names: MARCOL™ 52, MARCOL™ 82, DRAKEOL™ 6VR, EOLANE™ 130 and EOLANE™ 150; hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyl-dodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene; mixtures of alkanes comprising 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said alkanes being linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cycloalkanes, and more particularly mixture (Mi) which comprises, for 100% of its mass, a mass proportion of branched alkanes greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 100%; a mass proportion of linear alkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 9%, and more particularly less than 5% and a mass proportion of cycloalkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 1%, for example mixtures marketed under the names EMOGREEN™ L15 or EMOGREEN™ L19; fatty alcohol ethers of formula Z1-O-Z2, in which Z1 and Z2, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethyl butyl) ether or dihexyl ether; Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of the formula R' 1(C=O)-O-R'2 in which R' 1(C=O)- represents an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms and R'2 represents, independently of R' 1, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising from one to twenty-four carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, Propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, or isostearyl isostearate; - fatty acid and glycerol diesters of formula R'3-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R'4 and of formula R'5-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(O-(C=O)-R'6)-CH2-OH in which R'3-(C=O), R'4-(C=O), R'5-(C=O), R'6-(C=O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms; - the tri-esters of fatty acids and glycerol of formula R'7-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(O-(C=O)-R”8)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R”9, in which R'7-(C=O), R'8-(C=O) and R'9-(C=O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms. - vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane or oils of sweet almond, coconut, castor, jojoba, olive, rapeseed, peanut, sunflower, wheat germ, corn germ, soybean, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, evening primrose, millet, barley, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, hazelnut, palm, apricot kernel, calophyllum, sisymbrium, avocado, calendula or oils from flowers or vegetables; - ethoxylated vegetable oils.

[0035] In the present invention, “wax” means a compound or mixture of compounds insoluble in water, which is solid at a temperature of 45°C or higher. Examples of waxes optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject, as defined above, include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricouri wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, lanolin wax, ozokerite wax, polyethylene wax, or silicone wax; vegetable or microcrystalline waxes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and glycerides that are solid at room temperature, such as shea or cocoa butter.

[0036] Examples of natural thermal and mineral waters optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, as defined above, include the waters of Avène, Vittel, Uriage, La Roche-Posay, La Bourboule, Enghien-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Néris-les-Bains, Allevard-les-Bains, Digne, Les Maizières, Neyrac, Lons-le-Saunier, Rochefort, Saint-Christau, Les Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains, Bagnères-de-Bigorre, Eugenie-les-Bains, Challes-les-Eaux, Volvic, Vais, Vernière, Aix-les-Bains, Alet, Les Abatilles, Arcens, and Arvie. of Asperjoc, of Badoit, of Cilaos, of Contrexéville, of Evian, of Hépar, of Jouvence, of Mont-Roucous, of Ogeu, of Orezza, of Parot, of Perrier, of Plancoët, of Quézac, of Rozana, of Saint-Alban-Les-Eaux, of Saint-Amand-les-Eaux, of Saint-Georges, of Saint-Géron, Sainte-Marguerite, Saint-Yorre, Salvetat,of Teissières-lès-Bouliès, of Thonon, Treignac, of Courmayeur, of San Benedetto, of San Pellegrino or basin of Vichy. ,

[0037] Examples of optional deodorant agents present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of the use or invention as defined above include alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate gluconate, zinc chloride or zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate or caprylate, polyglycerol caprate, capryloyl glycine, 1,2-decanediol, 1,3-propanediol, salicylic acid, sodium bicarbonate, cyclodextrins, metallic zeolites, TRICLOSAN™; aluminum salts such as aluminum hydrobromide, hydrochloride, chloride, sulfate or lactate, mixed aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides such as aluminum and zirconium hydrochloride, trichloride, tetrachloride, pentachloride or octochloride;Sodium aluminum lactate; aluminum hydrochloride and diol complexes such as aluminum hydrochloride-glycol or -propylene glycol complexes, aluminum dihydrochloride-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquihydrochloride-propylene glycol complex, aluminum hydrochloride-polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dihydrochloride-polyethylene glycol complex or aluminum sesquihydrochloride-polyethylene glycol complex.

[0038] As optional hydrotropic agents present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of the subject of use or invention as defined above, we may mention xylenes sulfonates, cumenes sulfonates, hexylpolyglucoside, 2-ethylhexylpolyglucoside or n-heptylpolyglucoside.

[0039] As antioxidant agents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, such as Examples of those defined above include EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid) and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, DISSOLVINE™ GL 47S or CONTACTICEL™

[0040] Examples of sunscreens optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above include all those listed in Annex VII of the amended Cosmetics Directive 76 / 768 / EEC.

[0041] Examples of solubilizing agents for organic filters optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of the subject of use or invention as defined above include LANOL™ 37T, DUB™ 810PGM, DUB™ DIS, DUB™ DIPA, DUB™ DNPG or DUB™ SYNERSOL.

[0042] Examples of optional mineral sunscreens in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject of the invention as defined above include titanium, zinc, cerium, zirconium, yellow, red or black iron, or chromium oxides.

[0043] Examples of solvents and co-solvents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject of the above definition include glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water and said organic solvents, propylene carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO).

[0044] Examples of skin penetration enhancers optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject, as defined above, include glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monobenzyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (or Transcutol-P), fatty acids such as oleic acid, fatty acid glycerol esters such as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl palmitostearate, behenoyl macroglycerides, polyoxyethylene-2-stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene-2- oleyl ethers, terpenes such as D-Limonene, essential oils such as eucalyptus essential oil.

[0045] Examples of stabilizing agents optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject of the above definition include microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

[0046] Examples of optionally active ingredients present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above include: - vitamins and their derivatives, including their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); - compounds showing a skin-lightening or depigmenting action such as co-undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE™MSH, SEPICALM™VG, the monoester or glycerol diester of co-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, co-undecelynoyl dipeptides, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; - compounds showing a soothing action including SEPICALM™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; - analgesic or anti-inflammatory agents such as acetaminophen, aspirin, salicylic acid, methyl salicylate, choline or glycol salicylate, 1-menthol, camphor, mefenamic acid, fluphenamic acid, indomethacin, protizic acid, fentiazac, tolmetin, phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, clofezone, pentazocine, mepirizole, hydrocortisone, cortisone, dexamethasone, fluocinolone, triamcinolone, medrysone, prednisolone, flurandrenolide, prednisone, halcinonide, methylprednisolone, fludrocortisone, corticosterone, paramethasone, betamethasone; (Hetero)aryl acetic acid or 2-(hetero)aryl propionic acid such as diclofenac, tiaprofenic acid, alminoprofen, etodolac, flurbiprofen, ibuprofen, ketoprofen or naproxen. - antiseptic agents such as cetrimide, povidone-iodine, chlorhexidine, viodine, benzalkonium chloride, acid benzoic acid, nitrofurazone, benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, hexachlorophene, phenol, resorcinol or cetylpyridinium chloride; Insecticidal agents such as trichlorfone, triflumerone, fenthion, bendiocarb, cyromazine, dislubenzurone, dicyclanil, fluazurone, amitraz, deltamethrin, cypermethrin, chlorfenbinphose, flumethrin, ivermectin, abermectin, avermectin, doramectin, moxidectin, zeticypermethrin, diazinone, spinosad, imidacloprid, nitenpyran, pyriproxysene, sipronil, cythioate, lufenurone, selamectin, milbemycin oxime, chlorpyrifose, coumaphose, propetamphose, Valpha-cypermethrin, highciscypermethrin, ivermectin, diflubenzurone, the cyclodiene, carbamate and or benzoyl urea. antimicrobial agents such as sulfonamides, neomycin, tobramycin, gentamicin, amikacin, kanamycin, spectinomycin, paromomycin, netilmicin, polypeptides, cephalosporins or oxazolidinones such as ciprofloxacin, levofloxacin or ofloxacin; compounds showing a moisturizing action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides or xylitylglucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM™, ADIPOLESS™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL™, N-acylated amino acids, partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysates, Plant extracts, such as soy extracts, for example Raffermine™, wheat extracts for example TENSINE™ or GLIADINE™, plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action, such as LIPACIDE™ C8G, LIPACIDE™ UG, SEPICONTROL™ A5; OCTOPIROX™ or SENSIVA™ SC50; compounds exhibiting energizing or stimulating properties, such as PHYSIOGENYL™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP™ MP; Anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, SEPIVITAL™, MANOLIVA™, PHYTO-AGE™, TIMECODE™; SURVICODE™; anti-photoaging actives, actives that protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, actives that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical cell communication such as integrins; active ingredients that create a "warming" sensation on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (like nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a "cooling" sensation on the skin (like menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve cutaneous microcirculation, for example venotonics; draining actives, decongestant actives such as extracts of ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, butcher's broom, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; agents intended for the treatment of hair or body hair, for example protective agents for melanocytes in the hair follicle, agents mimicking the activity of DOPAchrome tautomerase, synthetic molecules mimicking SOD for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds for example cyclodextrin derivatives, siliceous compounds derived from ascorbic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylate of lysine or arginine, combinations of mono- and diester of cinnamic acid and vitamin C; tanning or skin-browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotarta aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts for example extracts of red woods of the genera Pterocarpus and Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, the Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida; - agents known for their action of facilitating or accelerating tanning or browning of human skin, or for their action of coloring human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), products marketed under the brand names "Carrot oil" and "SunTan Accelerator™", "Zymo Tan Complex", "MelanoBronze™", "Monk's pepper extract", "Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002", "Try-Excell™", "Actibronze™", "Tyrostan™", "Tyrosinol", "InstaBronze™", "Tyrosilane", "Exymol", "Bronzing SF Peptide powder", "Melitane", "Melatimes Solutions™", "Tanositol™", "Thalitan™", "Phycosaccharide™ AG", " Melactiva™” and “Biotanning™”. - As perfumer or flavoring substances optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention as defined above, one may mention those extracted from flowers such as rose, jasmine, tuberose, champaca, mimosa, carnation, osmanthus, narcissus, lavender, gardenia or the flowers of frangipani, ylang-ylang, lotus, acacia, sweet orange, bitter orange or neroli; those extracted from leaves, moss, bark, resin or buds such as blackcurrant buds; oak moss, beech moss or lichen; acacia, basil, valerian, gentian, violet, geranium, labdanum, rosemary, patchouli or verbena leaves; cinnamon, ash, cassia or cascarilla bark; sandalwood, cedar, rosewood, aloe, birch, guaiac wood; Peruvian or tolu balsam;Benzoin resin, myrrh, labdanum resin, elemi resin, frankincense, opoponax, guggul; those extracted from pine, spruce, or fir needles and branches; those extracted from tarragon, lemongrass, sage, or thyme; those extracted from pods, beans, or berries such as tonka beans, vanilla pods, cardamom, coriander, star anise, bitter almond, cumin, cloves, juniper berries; those extracted from citrus fruits such as lemon, orange (including flaxseed and bergamot), and mandarin; those extracted from roots such as angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, hornwort, cactus, or vetiver roots.

[0047] As optional perfumer or flavoring substances present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, as defined above, yarrow may also be mentioned. yarrow, calamus, garlic, ajowan, amyris, dill, anise, angelica, tea tree, basil, bay rum, benzoin, bergamot, guaiac wood, ho wood, rosewood, sandalwood, Siam wood, black birch, chamomile, camphor, cinnamon, cardamom, carrot, caraway, cedar, celery, sea fennel, rockrose, lemon, lemongrass, clementine, kaffir lime oil, copaiba oil, coriander, cryptomeria, cumin, turmeric, cypress, frankincense, spruce oil, tarragon, fennel, fragonia, galbanum, wintergreen, juniper, geranium, ginger, clove or clove leaf, helichrysum, hyssop, iary, inula, katrafay, khella, kunzea, lavender, lavandin, mandarin, niaouli, peppermint, orange, grapefruit, rosemary, thyme, ylang-ylang, ravintsara, sage, cabreuva, lemongrass, palmarosa,St. John's wort, jasmine, chamomile, lemon balm, pine, ginger, parsley, mugwort, hemp, hops, or wild thyme.

[0048] As optionally perfumed or flavoring substances present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation of which use or invention is the subject, as defined above, we may also mention musk, castoreum, civet, ambergris, beeswax absolute, hyraceum.

[0049] Examples of synthetic perfumer or flavoring chemical compounds optionally present in the topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that is the subject of the use or invention, as defined above, include: - terpene hydrocarbons (mono and sesquiterpenes) such as alpha or beta myrcene, limonene, alpha or beta pinene, camphene, cadinene, cedrene, farnesene, caryophyllene, chamazulene, l,l-dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene, curcumene, crythmene, himachelenes, limonene or paracymene; rose or tetranorlabdane oxides; terpinenes, terpinolenes or vetivenes; - esters such as benzyl, bornyl, citronellyl, cedryl, dihydromyrcenyl, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl, ethyl, farnesyl, fenchyl, hexyl, geranyl, isobutyl, isononyl, isopentyl, isobornyl, isopulegyl, linalyl, menthyl, methyl phenyl carbinyl, neryl, nonyl, 2-(tert-butyl) cyclohexyl, phenylethyl, 4-(tert-butyl) cyclohexyl, prenyl, styrallyl, terpenyl or vetyveryl acetates; methyl anthralinate, benzyl, isobutyl or linalyl benzoates, coumarin, ethyl, benzyl or isoamyl butanoates, benzyl, ethyl, isoamyl or linalyl butyrates; butyl, allyl or ethyl cinnamates, benzyl, citronellyl, hedione, geranyl, methyl formates; ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allyl-amyl glycolate, allyl heptanoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, cis-3-hexenyl isobutyrate, isoamyl methacrylate, ethyl naphtholate, hexyl neopentanoate, amyl, alkylcyclohexyl, allylcyclohexane, lynalyl, styralyl or citronellyl propionates; methyl, benzyl or ethyl salicylates or hexyl tiglate; - alcohols and phenols such as benzoic alcohol, alpha terpineol, anethole, carotol, chavicol, estragole, cineole, cinnamic alcohol, citronellol, p-cresol, cumic alcohol, 3,7-dimethyl-l-octanol, dimethyl benzyl carbinol, fenchyl alcohol, eucalyptol, farnesol, eugenol, isononylic alcohol, isoeugenol, guaiacol, geraniol, globutol, linalool, menthol, dihydromyrcenol, nerolidol, nerol, phenylethyl alcohol, safrol, isosafrol, phytol, isophytol, terpineol, tetrahydrolinalool, tetrahydromyrcenol, thymol, vetiverol or undecavertol; - aldehydes such as phenylacetic, salicylic, anisic, caprylic, cinnamic or hexyl cinnamic aldehydes; bourgeonal, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, cuminaldehyde, cyclal, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-l-carboxaldehyde, dodecanal, ethanal, octanal, decanal, geranials, helional, lactones such as gamma-undecalactones, lilial, methyl n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl octyl acetaldehyde, undecanal or vanillin; - ketones such as benzyl acetone, 7-methyl-2H-benzo-l,5-dioxepin-3(4H)-one, carvone, camphor, civettone, damascones, damascenones, ethyl amyl ketone, ethyl hexyl ketone, geranyl ketone, jasmone, irones, 3-hydroxy-2-methyl-4H-pyran-4-one, ethyl maltol, menthone, isomenthone, muscone, methyl heptenone, ionones such as methyl ionone, 4-methyl acetophenone, methyl pentyl ketone, methyl heptyl ketone, methyl hexyl ketone, alpha-isomethyl ionone, or methyl cedryl ketone; - ethers such as anethole, benzyl ether, cedryl methyl ether, p-cresyl methyl ether; - artificial musks derived from various nitrated compounds, ambrette musks, ketone musks, xylene musks, macrocyclic musks, - nitriles such as trimethyl-3,5,7-octane (ene) nitriles and their alpha-substituted derivatives, citronellyl nitrile, citronitrile, geranyl-nitrile.

[0050] The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, modifying it. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (molar ratio RA= 2), crosslinked by pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (molar ratio RB = 0.0040) according to the invention (PI). 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are placed in a reactor with mechanical stirring. 6.50 g (0.05 mol) of itaconic acid, 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.11 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for fifty minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for three hours. 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to achieve a molar ratio RA = 2), followed by 0.11 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to achieve a molar ratio RB = 0.0040) and 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide. The resulting mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar.13.78 g of the expected copolymer (PI) are thus isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 83.4%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 3 h crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate Σ RB = 0.0039) according to the invention (P2): 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 4.88 g (0.0375 mol) of itaconic acid, 5.30 g (0.054 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.10 g (0.0002838 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 45 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.18 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours. 5.30 g (0.054 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to achieve a molar ratio RA = 3), followed by 0.10 g (0.0002838 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to achieve a molar ratio RB = 0.0039) and 0.18 g of dilauroyl peroxide are added again to the heterogeneous reaction mixture.The resulting medium is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 12.29 g of the copolymer (P2) are thus isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 78.4%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A-itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 0.4) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (RB = 0.0069) according to the invention (P3): 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 9.30 g (0.0715 mol) of itaconic acid, 1.40 g (0.001425 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.09 g (0.0002572 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 60 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.17 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours. 1.40 g (0.01425 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to reach a molar ratio RA = 0.4), followed by 0.09 g (0.0002572 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to reach a molar ratio RB = 0.0069) and 0.17 g of dilauroyl peroxide are added again to the heterogeneous reaction mixture.The resulting medium is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 3.32 g of the copolymer (P3) are thus isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 27%. Preparation of a copolymer of Tulipalin A - itaconic acid (RA = 1) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (RB = 0.004) according to the invention (P4): 50.0 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 6.50 g (0.05 mol) of itaconic acid, 1.39 g of a 48% wt% (0.00167 mol) sodium hydroxide solution to partially solubilize the itaconic acid, 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.1057 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 40 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.1356 g of 2,2'azobis(2-methylpropanamidine) is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar.4.77 g of the copolymer (P4) are thus isolated, which corresponds to a final yield of 41.4%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 2) and crosslinked with propane trimethylol triacrylate (RB = 0.004) - according to the invention (P5) 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are placed in a reactor with mechanical stirring. 6.50 g (0.05 mol) of itaconic acid, 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.1057 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetracrylate are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 45 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for three hours. 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to achieve a molar ratio RA = 2), followed by 0.1057 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to achieve a molar ratio RB = 0.004), and 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide is added again to the heterogeneous reaction mixture. The resulting mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three more hours.It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 13.01 g of the copolymer (P5) are thus isolated, which corresponds to a final yield of 79%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 2) according to the invention (P6): 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 6.50 g (0.05 mol) of itaconic acid and 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 50 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours. 4.91 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A are then added (to achieve a molar ratio RA = 2), and 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide are added again to the heterogeneous reaction mixture. The resulting mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar.12.36 g of the copolymer (P6) are thus isolated, which corresponds to a final yield of 75%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A (la) - itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 2 )_ made with recycling of the filtrate according to the invention (P7) 16.0 g of the filtrate from a copolymerization test of Tulipalin A and Itaconic acid (RA = 1; with addition of Tulipalin in one step) in tert-butanol are placed in the reactor (this filtrate containing itaconic acid not having reacted with Tulipalin A during a previous synthesis). 2.45 g (0.025 mol) of Tulipalin A are added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 50 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.10 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for 6 hours. The reaction mixture is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper. The collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 2.80 g of copolymer (P7) are isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 48.6%. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (RA = 1) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (RB = 0.003) according to the invention (P8): 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 6.5 g (0.05 mol) of itaconic acid, 4.9 g (0.05 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.11 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are added. A homogeneous solution is obtained. This solution is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 45 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.2 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for 3 hours. The reaction mixture is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 5.63 g of copolymer (P8) are isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 48.9%. Preparation of a copolymer of Tulipalin A - itaconic acid (RA = 1) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (RB = 0.00 3) according to the invention (P9): 50.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 13.0 g (0.1 mol) of itaconic acid, 9.8 g (0.1 mol) of Tulipalin A (i.e., a molar ratio RA = 1), and 0.21 g (0.0006 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are added. A suspension is obtained. This suspension is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 45 minutes and then heated to 56°C. 0.4 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 56°C with mechanical stirring for 3 hours. The reaction mixture is then cooled to 25°C and filtered through paper. The collected precipitate is then dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 5.63 g of copolymer (P9) are isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 28.7%. Preparation of a homopolymer of Tulipalin (la) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (P 10) (not part of the invention) 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are placed in a reactor with mechanical stirring. 9.81 g (0.1 mol) of Tulipalin A and 0.1057 g (0.0003 mol) of pentaerythritol tetracrylate are added. A homogeneous solution is obtained. This solution is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for 60 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.20 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added, and the mixture is maintained at 80°C with mechanical stirring for 3 hours. The reaction mixture is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper. The collected precipitate is then dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 9.87 g of copolymer (P10) are isolated. This polymer is not soluble (even after adding NaOH to adjust the pH to 6-8) in water and therefore does not exhibit aqueous phase thickening properties. Preparation outside the scope of this invention of a homopolymer of itaconic acid (Ia) crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (Pli) (outside the scope of this invention). The same process as that described for the homopolymer (P10) was carried out, replacing 30.0 g of tert-butanol with 50.0 g of acetone and 9.81 g of Tulipalin A with 13.0 g of itaconic acid. 13.2 g of copolymer (Pli) were isolated after drying of the reaction mixture, corresponding to a yield of 100.0%. This polymer is soluble in water after the addition of sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH to 6-8 but does not exhibit aqueous phase thickening properties. Preparation of a Tulipalin A - itaconic acid copolymer (molar ratio RA = 0.2) etculated with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (molar ratio RB = 0.00551 (P 12) (not part of the invention)). 60.0 g of tert-butanol and 3.05 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 21.68 g (0.16667 mol) of itaconic acid, 1.63 g (0.01667 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.194 g (0.00055 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are then added. The resulting dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling with nitrogen for 45 minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.365 g of dilauroyl peroxide is added. is then added and the whole is kept at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours.1.63 g (0.01667 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to achieve a molar ratio RA = 0.2), followed by 0.194 g (0.00055 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to achieve a molar ratio RB = 0.0055), and 0.365 g of dilauroyl peroxide are added again to the heterogeneous reaction mixture. The resulting mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at [temperature missing]. 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbars. 3.91 g of the copolymer (P5) are thus isolated, which corresponds to a final yield of 15.4%. Preparation of a copolymer of Tulipalin A - itaconic acid (Ia) (molar ratio RA = 4) and crosslinked with pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (molar ratio RB = 0.0036) (P13) (not part of the invention). 30.0 g of tert-butanol and 1.5 g of demineralized water are poured into a reactor under mechanical stirring. 2.60 g (0.02 mol) of itaconic acid, 3.92 g (0.04 mol) of Tulipalin A, and 0.063 g (0.00018 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate are then added. A dispersion is obtained. The dispersion is deoxygenated by bubbling nitrogen for fifty minutes and then heated to 80°C. 0.12 g of dilauroyl peroxide is then added and the mixture is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three hours. 3.92 g (0.04 mol) of Tulipalin A is then added (to reach the molar ratio RA = 4) followed by 0.063 g (0.00018 mol) of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate (to reach the molar ratio RB = 0.0040) and 0.12 g of dilauroyl peroxide.The resulting medium is maintained at 80°C under mechanical stirring for three more hours. It is then cooled to 35°C and filtered through paper, and the collected precipitate is finally dried in an oven at 50°C under a vacuum of 20 mbar. 8.9 g of the expected copolymer (P13) are thus isolated, corresponding to a final yield of 84%. Evaluation of the thickening properties of the prepared polymers. The thickening properties of copolymers based on Tulipalin A and itaconic acid according to the invention (P1), (P2), (P3), (P4), (P5), (P6), (P7), (P8), and (P9) are listed in Table 1 below. They are compared to those of the polymers outside the invention (P10), (P11), (P12), and (P13). The gels are prepared by dispersing the polymer in water and adjusting the pH, if necessary, to a value greater than or equal to 6 and less than or equal to 8 with sodium hydroxide. [Tables 1] Viscosity of aqueous polymer gels (in mPa·s) Brookfield LVT (Mobile 4; Velocity 6 rp m) Polymer according to the invention Mass proportions of polymer in the gel Without NaCl With 0.1% NaCl PI 2% 14.720 8.680 PI 5% > 100.000 Not determined (nd) P2 2% 8.840 2.560 P2 5% 63.000 nd P3 2% 13,000 9,640 P3 5% > 100,000 39,400 P4 2% 1,630 nd P4 5% 10,000 nd P5 2% 3,065 1,200 P5 5% 37,000 nd P6 2% 1,220 860 P6 5% 11,600 nd P7 2% 24,000 nd P7 5% 580 nd P8 5% 43,800 nd P9 5% 34,000 nd Polymer not invented Polymer mass proportions of polymer in the gel P10 ndnd Non-thickening fold nd P12 2% 4,040 3,180 P12 5% 41,600 nd P13 2% 5 5 P13 5% 20 nd

[0051] Examples of topical cosmetic formulations according to the invention [Tables 2] AHA Foaming Formula Ingredients Mass Proportions Demineralized Water q.s. 100.0% Glycerin 2.0% Copolymer (PI) 1.0% ORAMIX™ CGI 10 5.0% Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate 28% 6.0% Glycolic Acid 70% 5.0% EUXYL™ K712 1.0% Triethanolamine qs pH4 [Tables 3] Sunscreen Formulation Ingredients Mass Proportions Demineralized Water q.s. 100.00% Copolymer (PI) 0.50% FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 3.00% LANOL™ 37T 8.00% EMOGREEN™ L19 4.00% NEO HELIOPAN™ OS 5.00% NEO HELIOPAN™ BMT 4.00% NEO HELIOPAN™ HMS 5.00% DL alpha tocopherol 0.05% EUXYL™ K903 1.00% CONTACTICEL™ 2.00% EPHEMER™ 2.00% TINOSORB™ M 5.00% Citric Acid 25% 0.04% [Tables 4] SPF 50 Sunscreen Formulation Ingredients Mass Proportions Demineralized Water q.s. 100.0% Glycerin 3.0% Copolymer (P3) 0.5% NEO HELIOPAN™ HYDRO 1.5% Triethanolamine 50% 1.7% SENSANOV™ WR 3.0% NEO HELIOPAN™ OS 5.0% NEO HELIOPAN™ BMT 6.0% LANOL™ 37T 7.0% DUB™ SSIC 5.0% A15-TiO2-SX-NJE8 5.0% DL alpha tocopherol 0.2% EUXYL™ PE9010 0.5% SENSIVA™ PA40 0.5% [Tables 5] Oil-in-water emulsions Ingredients Mass proportions MONTANOV™ 68 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% TRIGLYCERIDES 5545 20.0% 20.0% 20.0% Demineralized water q.s. 100.0% Copolymer (PI) 0.3% 0.5% 1.0% EUXYL™ PE9010 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% [Tableauxô] Oil-in-water emulsions with emollients Ingredients Mass proportions MONTANOV 68 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% TRIGLYCERIDES 5545 20.0% 20.0% 25.0% EMOGREEN™ L19 5.0% 10.0% 0.0% EMOGREEN HP40 0.0% 0.0% 5.0% Demineralized water q.s. 100.0% Copolymer (PI) 1.0% 0.5% 1.0% EUXYL PE9010 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% [Paintings?] Oil-in-water emulsions with vegetable oils. Ingredients: Mass proportions: MONTANOV™ 68 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% LANOL™ 2681 0.0% 0.0% 0.0% 0.0% LANOL™ 99 20.0% 0.0% 0.0% 0.0% Sweet almond oil 0.0% 30.0% 0.0% 0.0% Jojoba oil 0.0% 0.0% 30.0% 0.0% Olive oil 0.0% 0.0% 0.0% 30.0% Demineralized water q.s. 100.0% Copolymer (P5) 0.5% 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% EUXYL™ PE9010 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% [Tables 8] Oil-in-water emulsions Ingredients Mass quantity (%) FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% TRIGLYCERIDES 5545 20.0% 20.0% 10.0% 10.0% EMOGREEN™ L15 0.0% 0.0% 5.0% 5.0% Demineralized water q.s. 100.0% Copolymer (P5) 1.0% 0.5% 0.5% 1.0% EUXYL™ PE9010 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% [Table 9] Oil-in-Water Emulsions Ingredients Mass Proportions FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% TRIGLYCERIDES 5545 20.0% 10.0% 0.0% EMOGREEN™ L15 0.0% 5.0% 0.0% LANOL™ 2681 0.0% 0.0% 15.0% Demineralized Water q.s. 100.0% Copolymer (P2) 0.5% 0.5% 1.0% EUXYL™ PE9010 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% [Tables 10] Oil-in-water moisturizing and anti-aging emulsion. Ingredients: Mass proportions: Demineralized water q.s. 100.0%, copolymer (PI) 1.0%, FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY 3.0%, Sweet almond oil 10.0%, LANOL™ 2681 7.0% DUB ZENOAT™ 3.0% AQUAXYL™ 3.0% APAR'AGE™ 2.0% EUXYL™ K903 1.0% Perfume 0.1% Lactic acid qs pH = 5 [Tables 13] Ingrédients utilisés dans les formulations topiques mentionnées ci-dessus Nom commercial Composition ou nom INCI ORAMIX CGI 10 Caprylyl-Capryl Glucoside EUXYL K712 Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Aqua FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY Lauryl Glucoside (and) Myristyl Glucoside (and) Poly-gl yceryl-6 Laurate LANOL™ 37T Triheptanoin EMOGREEN™ L19 C15-19 Alkane NEO HELIOPAN™ OS Salicylate d’éthylhexyle NEO HELIOPAN™ BMT bis-éthylhexyloxyphenol méthoxyphényl triazine NEO HELIOPAN™ HMS Homosalate EUXYL™ K903 Benzyl Alcohol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Tocopherol CONTACTICEL™ Aqua (and) Butylène Glycol (and) Hydrolyzed Rhodophy ceae Extract EPHEMER™ Caprylic / Capric Triglycéride - Undaria Pinnatifida Extra et TINOSORB™ M Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (a nd) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol ( and) Xanthan Gum NEO HELIOPAN™ HYDRO Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid SENSANOV™ WR C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate (and) C20-22 Alcohols DUB SSIC™ IsocetylStearoyl Stéarate A15-TiO2-SX-NJE8 Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica (and) Jojoba Esters EUXYL™ PE9010 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin SENSIVA™ PA40 Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol MONTANOV™ 68 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside TRIGLYCERIDES 5545 Caprylic-Capric Triglycéride EMOGREEN™ HP40 C15-19 Alkane (and) Hydrogenated Polyfamesene LANOL™ 2681 Coco-Caprylate-Caprate LANOL™ 99 Isononyl Isononanoate Huile d’amandes douces Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil Huile de jojoba Simmondsia chinensis seed oil Huile d’olive Olea europaea fruit oil EMOGREEN™ L15 C15-19 Alkane DUB ZENOAT™ Propanediol Dicaprylate AQUAXYL™ Xylitylglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Xylitol APAR’AGE™ Water (and) Propanediol (and) Asparagopsis Armata Ext ract

Claims

Demands

1. Linear or crosslinked copolymer consisting of monomeric units from 3-methylene-dihydro-2(3 H)-furanone of formula (I): O (I) and monomeric units from methylene-1,4-butanedioic acid of formula (II): O JL OH d (ii) wherein the molar ratio RA having as numerator the number of moles of monomeric units from compound of formula (I) and as denominator the number of moles of monomeric units from compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 0.4 and less than or equal to 3.

0.

2. Linear or crosslinked copolymer according to claim 1, wherein said molar ratio RA is greater than or equal to 1.5 and less than or equal to 2.

5.

3. Crosslinked copolymer according to any one of claims 1 or 2 wherein the molar ratio RB having as numerator the number of moles of monomeric units from the crosslinking monomer and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of monomeric units from the compound of formula (I) and moles of monomeric units from the compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 0.0010 and less than or equal to 0.0070.

4. Crosslinked copolymer according to claim 3, wherein said molar ratio RB is greater than or equal to 0.0020 and less than or equal to 0.0060.

5. Crosslinked copolymer according to any one of claim 3 or 4, wherein the monomeric units derived from the crosslinking monomer are derived from a compound selected from the group consisting of methylene bis(acrylamide), pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, triallylamine, pentaerythritol triallylether, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate and sodium diallyloxy acetate (DAOAS).

6. Crosslinked copolymer according to claim 5, wherein the monomeric units derived from the crosslinking monomer are derived from a compound selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate and propane trimethylol triacrylate.

7. A process for preparing a linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising the following successive steps: • a step a) of making available: • a solvent selected from the group comprising water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, cyclohexane, ethyl acetate or a mixture of two or more of them; • said monomer of formula (II) and said monomer of formula (I) in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'A having as numerator the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and as denominator the number of moles of compound of formula (II) is greater than or equal to 0.4 and less than or equal to 3.0;and • optionally said crosslinking monomer selected from the group consisting of methylene bis(Acrylamide), Pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, propane trimethylol triacrylate, pentaerythritol triallylamine triallylether, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate and sodium diallyloxyacetate, in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'B having as its numerator the number of moles of monomer of; crosslinking and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and of compound of formula (II), either greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 0.007; a step b) of adding all the moles of compound of formula (II) into the solvent made available in step a) to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally a step c) of partially or totally neutralizing the compound of formula (II), by adding a base into said solution or dispersion formed in step b), to form a partially or totally neutralized solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II); a step d) of adding either part or all of the moles of compound of formula (I) made available in step a) into said solution or dispersion formed in step b) or into said solution or dispersion formed in step c), to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, and of said compound of formula (I); optionally a step e) of adding either part or all of the moles of crosslinking monomer into said solution or dispersion obtained in step d), to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and of said crosslinking monomer; a step f) of deoxygenating said solution or dispersion obtained in step d), or optional step e), by bubbling through it an inert gas, more particularly nitrogen, for a period greater than or equal to 30 minutes and less than or equal to 90 minutes, to obtain a deoxygenated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and of said crosslinking monomer; a step g) of heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C of said solution or dispersion obtained in step f), to obtain a deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), optionally partially or completely neutralized, of said compound of formula (I) and of said crosslinking monomer; a step h) of polymerization of the monomers present within said deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion obtained in step g), by addition of a polymerization initiator, more particularly dilauroyl peroxide or 2,2'-azobis(2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochloride and maintenance at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 300 minutes, to obtain a precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally of said monomer of formula (II) not having reacted within said solvent made available in step a); optionally an addition step i) of adding to said solvent obtained in step h), comprising the precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally said unreacted monomer of formula (II), of the remainder of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of the remainder of said crosslinking monomer made available in step a), and then polymerization of the remainder of the monomers present by adding a polymerization initiator, particularly dilauroyl peroxide or 2,2'-azobis(2-methylpropionamid ine dihydrochloride) maintaining the temperature at a value greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 95°C, for a time greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 300 minutes, to obtain a dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected; a step j) of cooling said dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer obtained in step i)

8.

9.

10. up to a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 30°C; and • either a step k) of filtering said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to collect said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected followed by a step 1) of drying said optionally crosslinked copolymer collected, • either a step m) of atomizing said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to obtain said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected in powder form. Preparation method according to claim 7, wherein steps b), c) optional, d) and e) optional are simultaneous and constitute a step B). A preparation process according to any one of claims 7 or 8, wherein the solvent made available in step a) is either water, tert-butanol, or a tert-butanol-water mixture. A preparation method according to claim 9, comprising the following successive steps: - a step a) of making available: • of a tert-butanol-water mixture comprising, for 100% by mass, a mass proportion greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 98% by mass of tert-butanol and a mass proportion greater than or equal to 2% by mass and less than or equal to 10% by mass of water; • said monomer of formula (II) and said monomer of formula (I) in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'A, where the numerator is the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and the denominator is the number of moles of compound of formula (II), is greater than or equal to 1.0 and less than or equal to 3.0; and optionally • said crosslinking monomer selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol tetraacrylate and propane trimethylol triacrylate, in molar proportions such that the molar ratio R'B having as numerator the number of moles of crosslinking monomer and as denominator the sum of the number of moles of compound of formula (I) and of compound of formula (II), is greater than or equal to 0.003 and less than or equal to 0.005; a step B) of adding to said tert-butanol-water mixture in the solvent made available in step a) all the moles of said compound of formula (II), 50% of the moles of compound of formula (I) and optionally 50% of the moles of said crosslinking monomer to form a solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step f) of deoxygenating said solution or dispersion obtained in step B), by bubbling nitrogen through it, for a period greater than or equal to 45 minutes and less than or equal to 60 minutes, to obtain a deoxygenated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step g) of heating to a temperature greater than or equal to 75°C and less than or equal to 85°C of said solution or dispersion obtained in step f), to obtain a deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion of said compound of formula (II), of said compound of formula (I) and optionally of said crosslinking monomer; a step h) of polymerization of the monomers present within said deoxygenated and heated solution or dispersion obtained in step g), by addition of dilauroyl peroxide and maintenance at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 75°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 200 minutes to obtain a precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally of said monomer of formula (II) not having reacted within said solvent made available in step a) and; - a step i) of adding to said solvent obtained in step h), comprising the precipitate of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected and optionally said unreacted monomer of formula (II), the remainder of said compound of formula (I) and optionally the remainder of said crosslinking monomer made available in step a), then polymerizing the remaining monomers present by adding dilauroyl peroxide and maintaining at a polymerization temperature greater than or equal to 50°C and less than or equal to 85°C, for a period greater than or equal to 150 minutes and less than or equal to 200 minutes, to obtain a dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected; - a step j) of cooling said dispersion of said optionally crosslinked copolymer obtained in step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 30°C;and - either a step k) of filtering said cooled dispersion obtained in step j), to collect said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected followed by a step 1) of drying said optionally crosslinked copolymer collected, - or a step m) of atomizing said cooled dispersion obtained in step j) to obtain said optionally crosslinked copolymer expected in powder form.;

11. Use of the linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, for the purpose of thickening, stabilizing or emulsifying a topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation or suspending solid particles therein.

12. A topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation characterized in that it comprises, by mass, from 0.1% to 10.0%, and more particularly from 0.5% to 5.0%, a linear or crosslinked copolymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, as a thickening agent, stabilizing agent, or emulsifying agent of said topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation, or as an agent suitable and intended to suspend solid particles within said topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation.