Jacquard woven fabric

Abstract

A jacquard woven fabric comprising a yarn arrangement of warp and weft yarns, the yarn arrangement comprising yarns that include a yarn blend of fibres including polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and v

Description

Invention The invention relates to a jacquard woven fabric and a method of manufacturing a jacquard woven fabric. Background Traditional jacquard fabrics rely on virgin synthetic fibres, high-energy weaving, and excessive water use. Summary of the invention According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a jacquard woven fabric comprising a yarn arrangement of warp and weft yarns, the yarn arrangement comprising yarns that include a yarn blend of fibres including polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres. Preferably the yarn blend of fibres consists of only the polyester fibres, the lyocell fibres and the viscose rayon fibres. The warp yarns may include polyester fibres. The polyester fibres of the warp yarns may have a denier number of 50 but other denier numbers may be used. The weft yarns may include the yarn blend of fibres. The polyester fibres of the yarn blend of fibres may have a denier number of 150 but other denier numbers may be used. Preferably the polyester fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 31% to 41% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. It will be understood that the polyester fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in a different amount of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. In the invention, the polyester fibres may be recycled polyester fibres, which may be made from plastic waste. This is in contrast to virgin polyester fibres. The lyocell fibres may include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres. The first and second groups of lyocell fibres may have different S numbers. The first group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 13% to 23% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. It will be understood that the first group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in a different amount of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. The first group of lyocell fibres may have a S number of 40s but other S numbers may be used. Some or all of the first group of lyocell fibres may be griege fibres. The second group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. It will be understood that the second group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in a different amount of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. The second group of fibres may have an S number of 30s but other S numbers may be used. The viscose rayon fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. It will be understood that the viscose rayon fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in a different amount of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. The viscose rayon fibres may have an S number of 30s but other S numbers may be used. Some or all of the viscose rayon fibres may be griege fibres. In embodiments of the invention, the polyester fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 31% to 41% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the lyocell fibres may include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres may have a S number of 40s, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 13% to 23% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the second group of fibres may have an S number of 30s, wherein the second group of lyocell fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the viscose rayon fibres may be present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres. The warp yarns may have a warp density of 70-80 threads / cm, preferably 75 threads / cm, but other warp densities may be used. The weft yarns may have a weft density of 110-130 threads / cm, preferably 120 threads / cm, but other weft densities may be used. The yarn arrangement may have a double weft density structure. The yarn arrangement may have a hollow bag weave structure. According to a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of manufacturing a jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, the method comprising the steps of using a jacquard loom to weave yarns into a yarn arrangement of warp and weft yarns, wherein the yarn arrangement comprises yarns that include a blend of polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres. Features and advantages of the first aspect of the invention and its embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the second aspect of the invention and its embodiments. According to a third aspect of the invention, there is provided a yarn blend of fibres comprising polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres. Features of the yarn blend and fibres stated elsewhere in this specification apply mutatis mutandis to the yarn blend and fibres of this application. In one example, the polyester fibres may be recycled polyester fibres. In another example, the lyocell fibres may include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres, wherein the first and second groups of lyocell fibres may have different S numbers. Features and advantages of the first aspect of the invention and its embodiments apply mutatis mutandis to the third aspect of the invention and its embodiments. It will be appreciated that the use of the terms "first" and "second", and the like, in this patent specification is merely intended to help distinguish between similar features and is not intended to indicate the relative importance of one feature over another feature, unless otherwise specified. Within the scope of this application it is expressly intended that the various aspects, embodiments, examples and alternatives set out in the preceding paragraphs, and the claims and / or the following description and drawings, and in particular the individual features thereof, may be taken independently or in any combination. That is, all embodiments and all features of any embodiment can be combined in any way and / or combination, unless such features are incompatible. The applicant reserves the right to change any originally filed claim orfile any new claim accordingly, including the right to amend any originally filed claim to depend from and / or incorporate any feature of any other claim although not originally claimed in that manner. Detailed description While traditional woven jacquard fabrics offer rich visual appeal, they often fall short in terms of softness, moisture management, and eco-efficiency. The inventor has developed a carbon-neutral woven jacquard fabric, integrating comfort, breathability and environmental responsibility to meet the rising demand for sustainable, high-performance textiles. In particular, to address these challenges, the inventor has blended recycled polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres in a composite yarn blend and weaving the resultant yarns into complex jacquard woven structures. Traditionally lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres are primarily used in knitting, rather than jacquard weaving, due to low cohesion in woven fabrics. Their blending difficulties in woven fabrics posed a significant challenge that required innovative fibre processing techniques, as outlined below. The jacquard woven fabric of the invention was manufactured using a conventional jacquard loom, details of which are well-known in the art. 1) Yarn selection and blend optimisation Initial trials using weft yarns with a yarn blend consisting of only viscose rayon fibres (e.g., EcoCosy® fibres by Sateri) and recycled polyester fibres provided sufficient tensile strength but lacked breathability and comfort. The warp yarns are preferably, but not limited to, recycled polyester yarns. Lyocell fibres with S numbers of 30s and 40s (the latter is commonly referred to as TENCEL™ fibres) were then introduced by the inventor into the yarn blend to improve softness and moisture absorption, leading to a well-balanced, structurally stable blend. Lyocell fibres are durable, eco-friendly fibres with excellent strength and sustainability. TENCEL™ fibres are low-carbon wood-based fibres with superior breathability and moisture-wicking properties. On the other hand, the use of 60s lyocell fibres resulted in frequent weft breakages during weaving, thus reducing efficiency. The inventor discovered that using the coarser 30s and 40s fibres and fine-tuning loom tension resulted in significant reductions in weft breakage and improved production efficiency. The S-number is indicative of the fibre thickness as defined in the IWTO Super S Code of Practice. The resultant yarn blend of the weft yarns of the invention comprises recycled polyester fibres, lyocell fibres with S numbers of 30s and 40s and viscose rayon fibres. Recycled polyester fibres are low-carbon, high-strength fibres that may be melt-spun from post-consumer polyethylene terephthalate (PET), such as plastic bottles. The inclusion of the recycled polyester fibres contributes to structural strength, wrinkle resistance, stability during heat-finishing, and pattern clarity in complex jacquard structures. Furthermore, recycled polyester fibres in the yarn blend for the weft yarns enhance overall tensile strength and weaving compatibility. Recycled polyester yarns are preferred over virgin polyester yarns for sustainability reasons, but the invention may use virgin polyester yarns in place of the recycled polyester yarns. The Lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres are selected for their distinct structure and functional roles in the fabric. The 30s and 40s lyocell fibres (40s / l and 30s / l) are solvent-spun regenerated cellulose fibres using N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) as a solvent. Compared to viscose rayon fibres, the lyocell fibres offer higher dry and wet tenacity, smooth surface, low fibrillation and excellent moisture absorption. Furthermore, the use of lyocell fibres with different S numbers contribute differently to drape, texture, and weight distribution in the jacquard structure. Viscose rayon fibres (such as EcoCosy® fibres) are biodegradable cellulose fibres that are produced from wood pulp using the traditional viscose method. EcoCosy® fibres have the following characteristics: • They are derived from FSC- or PEFC-certified wood pulp sourced from sustainably managed plantations, ensuring consistent cellulose purity and fibre quality. • They are produced using modern, highly automated viscose lines with closed-loop chemical management, thereby providing a lower carbon footprint and reduced emissions compared to traditional viscose production. • They exhibit tighter control over fineness (typically ~1.3 to 1.5 dtex), a staple length of 32-40 mm, more uniform fibre cross-sections, and reduced surface fibrillation. This leads to fewer yarn breakages and enhanced spinning efficiency. • They exhibit improved dry tenacity and lower variation in tensile strength, contributing to higher yarn quality and durability in final fabrics. • They exhibit excellent whiteness and dye uptake uniformity. • They exhibit operational stability by being optimised for high-speed spinning and weaving operations, resulting in fewer defects and enhanced production throughput due to higher reliability. • They provide superior environmental, mechanical, and aesthetic performance over conventional viscose, making them particularly suitable for high-quality, sustainable textile applications. Portions of the EcoCosy® and TENCEL™ fibres may be in the form of undyed greige fibres, which has the benefits of eliminating dyeing steps and reducing resource consumption to lower the final fabric's carbon footprint. Alternatively, colour variations can be introduced into the fabric to meet customer requirements using eco-friendly dyeing solutions. Fibre ratios in the yarn blend of fibres may be adjusted depending on application and performance requirements. In a preferred embodiment, the yarn blend of fibres may have the following composition with a variant of ±5% for each fibre component: recycled polyester fibres (36%), TENCEL™ fibres (18%), EcoCosy® fibres (23%), lyocell 30s fibres (23%). The jacquard woven fabric may be woven to have a multi-layer jacquard weaving structure, preferably with a reversible, multifunctional jacquard structure, enhancing fabric strength, texture, and versatility. 2) Equipment parameters and process optimisation Initial prototypes were woven at a warp density of 114 threads / cm, which yielded a thick, stiff fabric with high energy consumption. The inventor discovered that reducing the density to ~75 threads / cm produced a lighter, softer fabric while improving eco-efficiency. The original setup based on an 8-end satin weave with 8 dents per reed caused visible reed marks. The inventor found that adjusting the reed count improved surface uniformity. Further refinements to weaving tension and speed accommodated the varied deformation rates of blended fibers, stabilizing production and reducing waste. 3) Structural design and pattern optimisation: Use of an initial single satin base weave led to warp-dominant coloration, resulting in dull pattern visibility. A double weft density structure was adopted to enhance weft color visibility and pattern clarity. A hollow bag weave was implemented to embed undyed yarns within the central layer. This eliminated color interference, enhanced motif fullness, and further reinforced the sustainability of the design. The final structure balanced aesthetic expression and mechanical performance, making the fabric suitable for scalable industrial production. 4) Experimental Data The following jacquard woven fabric was subjected to testing to determine its properties and performance: • Weaving technique: Multi-layer jacquard with a reversible, multifunctional jacquard structure. • Warp density: ~75 threads / cm • Weft density: ~120 threads / cm • Warp yarn: 50D recycled polyester fibres • Weft Yarn: 150D recycled polyester fibres (36%), 40s TENCEL™ fibres (18%), 30s EcoCosy® fibres (23%), lyocell 30s fibres (23%) • Weight: 285 g / m2 • Width: 149 cm • Finishing Process: Washed and pre-shrunk, Steam The fabric was measured as having a fabric weight per unit area of 285g / cm2 using Chinese Standard GB / T 4669-2008 Method 5. The fabric was measured as having a pH value of 5.0 using Chinese Standard GB / T 7573-2009, using a KCI solution as the extracting solution. The fabric was tested as having no detectable formaldehyde content using Chinese Standard GB / T 2912.1-2009 Water extraction method. The detection limit was 20 mg / kg. The fabric was tested as having no azo colourants using Chinese Standard GB / T 17592-2024 GC / MSD method. The detection limit was 5mg / kg. The fabric was measured as having a warp density of 76.0 threads / cm and a weft density of 123.0 threads / cm using Chinese Standard GB / T 4668-1995 Method A. The fabric was tested for dimensional stability to dry-cleaning using Chinese standard FZ / T 80007.3-2023 Normal dry cleaning. After a first dry-cleaning, the fabric exhibited a warp extension of 0.3 and a weft extension of 0.2. The fabric was measured as having a colour fastness of 4-5 to (i) water [Chinese Standard GB / T 5713-2013], (ii) perspiration [Chinese Standard GB / T 3922-2013], (iii) rubbing [Chinese Standard GB / T 3920-2008], and (iv) washing [Chinese Standard GB / T 3921-2008 Method A(l)]. Colour fastness in a fabric refers to the fabric's ability to resist color change or staining when exposed to various environmental factors. 5) Conclusion Through material innovation, mechanical tuning and structural reengineering, the invention demonstrates the feasibility of using low-carbon regenerated fibers in jacquard weaving. The resulting fabric balances performance, comfort and sustainability, thereby offering a scalable model for eco-material applications in complex jacquard woven structures. Other aspects and benefits of the invention include, but are not limited to: a) The specific yarn blend of fibres enhances breathability, moisture absorption and longevity. b) Development of new processing techniques to improve fibre adhesion in order to overcome challenges in blending lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres in jacquard weaving. c) Reducing carbon emissions and energy use in textile production by replacing virgin materials with sustainable fibres. d) Reducing excessive water &chemical use by eliminating or reducing the use of yarn dyeing and by using steam-setting to cut water and chemical consumption. The low-impact manufacturing process reduces energy, water and chemical usage, thus improving sustainability while lowering production costs. To further reduce environmental impact, the final fabric may use the original, undyed colour of TENCEL™ 5 and EcoCosy® raw fibres, thus eliminating or reducing the need for additional dyeing and reducing carbon emissions. The listing or discussion of an apparently prior published document or apparently prior published information in this specification should not necessarily be taken as an 10 acknowledgement that the document or information is part of the state of the art or is common general knowledge. Preferences and options for a given aspect, feature or parameter of the invention should, unless the context indicates otherwise, be regarded as having been disclosed 15 in combination with any and all preferences and options for all other aspects, features and parameters of the invention.

Claims

1. A jacquard woven fabric comprising a yarn arrangement of warp and weft yarns, the yarn arrangement comprising yarns that include a yarn blend of fibres including 5 polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres, wherein the polyester fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 31% to 41% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the lyocell fibres include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres has a S number of 40s, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres is 10 present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 13% to 23% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the second group of fibres has an S number of 30s, wherein the second group of lyocell fibres is present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the viscose rayon fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres 15 in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres.

2. A jacquard woven fabric according to Claim 1 wherein the warp yarns include polyester fibres.

203. A jacquard woven fabric according to Claim 2 wherein the polyester fibres of the warp yarns have a denier number of 50.

4. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein 25 the weft yarns include the yarn blend of fibres.

5. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyester fibres of the yarn blend of fibres have a denier number of 150.30 6. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims whereinthe polyester fibres are recycled polyester fibres.

7. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein some or all of the first group of lyocell fibres are griege fibres.

358. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the viscose rayon fibres have an S number of 30s.24 03 269. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein some or all of the viscose rayon fibres are griege fibres.

10. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein 5 the warp yarns have a warp density of 70-80 threads / cm.

11. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weft yarns have a weft density of 110-130 threads / cm.10 12. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims whereinthe yarn arrangement has a double weft density structure.

13. A jacquard woven fabric according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the yarn arrangement has a hollow bag weave structure.1514. A method of manufacturing a jacquard woven fabric, the method comprising the steps of using a jacquard loom to weave yarns into a yarn arrangement of warp and weft yarns, wherein the yarn arrangement comprises yarns that include a blend of polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres, wherein the polyester fibres 20 are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 31% to 41% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the lyocell fibres include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres has a S number of 40s, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres is present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 13% to 23% of a total 25 number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the second group of fibres has anS number of 30s, wherein the second group of lyocell fibres is present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the viscose rayon fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend 30 of fibres.

15. A yarn blend of fibres comprising polyester fibres, lyocell fibres and viscose rayon fibres, wherein the polyester fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 31% to 41% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of 35 fibres, wherein the lyocell fibres include a first group of lyocell fibres and a second group of lyocell fibres, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres has a S number of 40s, wherein the first group of lyocell fibres is present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 13% to 23% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the second group of fibres has an S number of 30s, wherein the secondgroup of lyocell fibres is present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres, wherein the viscose rayon fibres are present in the yarn blend of fibres in an amount ranging from 18% to 28% of a total number of fibres in the yarn blend of fibres.

16. A yarn blend according to Claim 15 wherein the polyester fibres are recycled polyester fibres.24 03 26A