Woven fabric, garment, and method for producing the textile fabric

Abstract

The present invention relates to a woven fabric, particularly a denim fabric, comprising a base woven fabric including a base warp yarn and a base weft yarn, a loop woven fabric including an anchor yarn and a loop yarn extending perpendicular to the anchor yarn, and a front side and a back side, wherein each of the base warp yarn, base weft yarn, anchor yarn, and loop yarn has a front side facing the front side and a back side facing the back side, and each anchor yarn has at least one under portion extending on the back side of at least one of the base warp yarn or weft yarn, and two over portions that restrain at least one of the anchor yarn under portion, and at least one of the base warp yarn or weft yarn is at least one over portion. and an over portion extending at one of the front sides to connect the anchor yarn under portion to the base fabric, wherein each loop yarn includes at least one under portion extending at the rear side of at least one of the anchor yarns and two over portions that restrain at least one of the loop yarn under portions, the over portion extending at the front side of at least one of the anchor yarns, and wherein at least one of the anchor yarn under portions and loop yarn under portions extend at the rear sides of at least five yarns between their restraining over portions.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric, a garment comprising such a fabric, and a method for manufacturing such a fabric or garment. The woven fabric has a front side and a back side. In particular, the woven fabric has a denim-like appearance on the front side and a knit-like appearance on the back side. [Background technology]

[0002] Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics generally have different properties. Woven fabrics such as denim, gabardine, poplin, and linen have higher stability than knitted fabrics, but their high stiffness results in poor drape (fit) and discomfort to the wearer's skin. Denim is a very popular woven fabric. Usually, denim fabrics have a 3 / 1 weave (twill weave). In a 3 / 1 weave, the warp threads have an over portion that runs along three weft threads on the front side and an under portion that runs along only one weft thread on the back side. This makes the front side visually dominated by the warp threads, while the back side of the fabric mainly shows the weft threads. In particular, such denim fabrics are fabrics in which the warp threads are the surface (warp surface fabrics). In particular, warp surface fabrics are fabrics in which the front side of the fabric is visually dominated by the warp threads. Other warp surface fabrics include twill, cavalry twill, chino, covert, drill, fancy twill, gabardine, and lining twill. Another feature of denim fabrics is the presence of a diagonal pattern, especially on the face side. Such a diagonal pattern is especially realized by a diagonal offset of the warp over portion on the face side of the fabric. Another feature of denim fabrics is the use of indigo dyed warp yarns and especially undyed weft yarns. Especially in combination with the warp surface structure, this provides the typical indigo blue look of the face side of the denim fabric, while the back side remains substantially white. In the case of ring dyed yarns used in denim fabrics, the indigo dye is most concentrated on the surface of the yarn, while the core of the yarn remains undyed, allowing very distinctive coloring options. Various finishing processes can be applied to denim to improve its coloring properties. For example, denim can be hand scraped, sandblasted, stone washed, or otherwise treated to reveal various amounts of the undyed core of the indigo yarn. Hereinafter, one or more of the above characteristics of denim fabric will be referred to as denim-like appearance.

[0003] Although denim is very popular, due to the nature of its fabric, it has rarely been used for clothing that is expected to fit well to the wearer's body (have good drape) and / or feel soft against the wearer's skin, especially tops such as shirts, blouses, and sweatshirts. Knit fabrics are most often used for clothing that provide such characteristics because knit fabrics are generally flexible and stretch in all directions, which allows them to fit well to the wearer's body and / or feel soft against the wearer's skin. In the following, one or more of these characteristics will be referred to as a knit-like appearance.

[0004] The disadvantages of knit-like fabrics are, among others, their low stability, high manufacturing costs, and limited suitability for providing a denim-like appearance. In particular, indigo-colored knit fabrics are very costly to produce. In particular, the yarns used to produce the knit fabric must first be wound onto dyeing bobbins, which requires additional manufacturing steps that are time-consuming and consequently expensive. In contrast, weaving processes do not require additional steps, since the yarns are wound onto bobbins before weaving. Furthermore, during the production of knit fabrics, both sides are dyed, including the back side of the fabric that contacts the wearer's skin, which may leave stains.

[0005] Previously, attempts have been made to combine the advantages of knitted and woven fabrics. For example, in order to create a fabric that can be easily produced by weaving but that offers a similar look and feel to knitted fabrics, EP 2 539 493 B1 proposes weaving the warp with two different types of weft yarns, namely elastomeric weft yarns and hard weft yarns. Due to the greater shrinkage of the elastomeric weft yarns, the hard weft yarns form hanging loops, thus providing the back side of the fabric with a knitted feel and look.

[0006] However, the inventors have identified a need to further improve the knitted look on the back side, and have found that the woven fabric according to EP 2 539 493 B1 does not look like denim on the front side, in particular because the overs on the front side of the fabric form not only one diagonal pattern typical of denim, but also a second diagonal pattern due to the overs of hard weft yarns, which is offset to the first diagonal pattern.

[0007] The applicant of the present invention has previously identified some of these drawbacks in EP 2 539 493 B1 and provided a solution in EP 3 231 907 A1. Here, instead of using two weft systems, a two warp system is used with a front warp thread and a back warp thread to provide hanging loops on the back side of the fabric. By using two warp systems, the loops providing the warp threads can be offset from the front side of the fabric towards the back side of the fabric, so that their overhang does not detract from the denim-like appearance on the front side of the fabric. However, the inventors of the present invention have identified a need to further improve the knitted look on the back side, in particular without detracting from the denim-like appearance on the front side. Summary of the Invention

[0008] The object of the present invention is therefore to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art, in particular to provide a woven fabric having an improved knitted appearance on the back side and in particular a denim-like appearance on the front side, a garment comprising such a fabric, and a method for producing such a fabric.

[0009] This problem is solved by the independent claims.

[0010] The present invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric. The woven fabric comprises a base fabric with base warp threads and base weft threads. The base warp threads and weft threads are woven into a base fabric, in particular a warp surface fabric and / or denim fabric as described below. The warp surface fabric is in particular realized by a base fabric, in which the base warp threads comprise an under portion extending behind at least one, in particular one, of the base weft threads, and an over portion restrained by two such over portions and extending in front of at least two, three or four, in particular three, base weft threads between the restrained over portions. Additionally or alternatively, the base fabric has a diagonal pattern on the front side. Such a diagonal pattern is in particular realized by a diagonal offset of the warp over portions on the front side of the fabric. Additionally or alternatively, the base warp threads comprise an under portion, where the under portions of adjacent base warp threads form a diagonal pattern that in particular enhances the denim-like appearance of the base fabric. In particular, denim fabric is a warp face fabric having a diagonal pattern.

[0011] The woven fabric further comprises a loop fabric comprising an anchor yarn and a loop yarn extending perpendicular to the anchor yarn. In other words, if the anchor yarn is a warp yarn, the loop yarn is a weft yarn and vice versa. In particular, the anchor yarn connects the loop fabric to the base fabric. In particular, the loop fabric is connected to the base fabric by at least one, in particular precisely one, base weft yarn or an over-portion extending in front of the base weft yarn, which is bound by two under-portions of the anchor yarn extending behind the at least one base warp yarn or base weft yarn.

[0012] The woven fabric further comprises a front side and a back side. Each of the base warp yarns, base weft yarns, anchor yarns, and loop yarns has a front side facing the front side and a back side facing the back side. In particular, it is clear that the terms front and back of a yarn do not necessarily require that the yarn is present on the front side or back side of the woven fabric, respectively. Rather, in particular, the front and back are defined as the sides facing the front side and back side, respectively. In particular, the front side may be defined as an imaginary straight (straight, unbent) plane lying flat on one side of the fabric. Meanwhile, the back side may be defined as an imaginary straight (straight, unbent) plane lying flat on the opposite side of the fabric.

[0013] Each anchor yarn includes at least one under portion extending on the rear side of at least one of the base warp yarns or weft yarns and two over portions that bind at least one of the anchor yarn under portions, the over portions extending on the front side of at least one of the base warp yarns or weft yarns, in particular one of the base warp yarns or weft yarns, thereby connecting the anchor yarn under portion to the base fabric.

[0014] In particular, the constrained over parts in the sense of the present invention, whether warp or weft threads, are over parts between which the under part extends, in other words over parts which limit the extension range of the under part in the direction in which the respective thread extends. In particular, this applies mutatis mutandis to the constrained under parts described above and below.

[0015] Each loop yarn comprises at least one under-portion extending on the rear side of at least one of the anchor yarns and two over-portions restraining at least one of the loop yarn under-portions, the over-portions extending on the front side of at least one of the anchor yarns, in particular the restraining loop yarn over-portions connect the loop yarn to the respective anchor yarn, since each of the restraining over-portions extends on the front side of the anchor yarn restrained by at least one, in particular one, two loop yarn under-portions.

[0016] In particular, a thread extending in front of an anchor thread in the sense of the present invention is understood to be a thread extending between the front side of the textile fabric and the other threads. In particular, a thread extending behind the other threads in the sense of the present invention is understood to be a thread extending between the back side of the textile fabric and the other threads. In particular, a thread portion extending on a minimum or a certain number of threads in front or behind a thread, such as an over or under portion, is to be understood as a thread floating in its extension direction, for example in the warp direction in the case of warp threads, along said number of threads, between its restraint portions, for example in the case of an under portion, in its two restraint over portions.

[0017] According to one aspect of the invention, at least one of the anchor yarn under-portions and loop yarn under-portions extends between their restraining over-portions on the rear side of at least five yarns. This aspect of the invention is detailed with respect to an embodiment in which the anchor yarn is a warp yarn and the loop yarn is a weft yarn. However, alternatively, the anchor yarn may be a weft yarn and the loop yarn may be a warp yarn. All subsequent embodiments of the invention in which the anchor yarn is a warp yarn and the loop yarn is a weft yarn shall be considered to reflect this alternative configuration.

[0018] In particular, the at least one anchor thread under-portion extends behind at least five weft threads between the restrained over-portions. In particular, these at least five weft threads may be base weft threads and / or loop threads, provided that the total number of base weft threads and loop threads through which the at least one anchor thread under-portion extends behind is at least five. Additionally or alternatively, the at least one loop thread under-portion extends behind at least five warp threads between the restrained over-portions. In particular, these at least five warp threads may be base warp threads and / or anchor threads, provided that the total number of base warp threads and anchor threads through which the at least one anchor thread under-portion extends behind is at least five.

[0019] In particular, at least one anchor yarn under portion and at least one loop yarn under portion can be classified as a long under portion. The inventors have found that the use of long under portions in the anchor yarn and loop yarn, and therefore in the warp and weft directions, improves the knitted look on the back side compared to using long under portions only in the weft or warp direction. Surprisingly, it has been found that this improves the knitted look over the knitted look that would be achieved if there were the same number of long under portions only in the warp or weft direction. In addition to the advantages of the inventive concept of the hanging under portions in the warp and weft directions described below, one reason for this improved knitted look is that the long under portions extending in the warp and weft directions provide a visual barrier that hides the majority of the base fabric from being seen or felt on the back side.

[0020] In particular, at least one of said anchor thread under-parts extends behind at least 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 threads between its restrained over-parts. In case the anchor thread is a warp thread, the number of these threads may be the sum of the base weft thread and / or the loop thread. In particular, it is within the scope of the invention that the anchor thread under-part also extends in front of the loop thread. However, such loop threads are not counted in the given minimum number of threads bypassed by the anchor thread under-part. However, it is clear that in particular, in case the anchor thread is a warp thread, the anchor thread under-part does not extend in front of the base weft thread between its restrained over-parts. This also applies mutatis mutandis to configurations in which the anchor thread is a weft thread.

[0021] In particular, at least one of the loop yarn under-parts extends behind at least 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24 or 26 yarns between its restrained over-parts. In case the loop yarns are weft yarns, the number of these yarns may be the sum of the base warp yarns and / or the anchor yarns. In particular, it is clear that the loop yarn under-part does not extend in front of the anchor yarn between its restrained over-parts. This also applies mutatis mutandis to configurations in which the loop yarns are warp yarns.

[0022] In particular, at least one of the anchor yarn under-portions extends behind at least 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 base warp yarns in an anchor yarn weft configuration, or at least 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 base weft yarns in an anchor yarn warp configuration. Additionally or alternatively, at least one of the anchor yarn under-portions extends behind at least 1, 2, 3, or 4 loop yarns in an anchor yarn weft configuration. Additionally or alternatively, at least one of the anchor yarn under-portions extends ahead of at least 5, 6, 7, or 8 loop yarns in an anchor yarn weft configuration.

[0023] In particular, at least one of the loop yarn under-portions extends behind at least 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 base warp yarns in a loop yarn weft configuration, or behind at least 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 base weft yarns in a loop yarn warp configuration. Additionally or alternatively, at least one of the loop yarn under-portions extends behind at least 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 anchor yarns in a loop yarn weft configuration.

[0024] According to another aspect of the invention, which may be combined with the above-mentioned aspects of the invention and all its embodiments, at least one of the under-anchor yarn portion and under-loop yarn portion is drooping due to an excess in length compared to the distance between their restrained over-portions, in particular at least one of the under-anchor yarn portion and / or under-loop yarn portion extends curvedly between their restrained over-portions at a distance from the yarns over which they extend on the back side.

[0025] In particular, the presence of hanging under parts in the anchor and loop yarns, in particular therefore in the warp and weft directions, improves the knitted look on the back side compared to using hanging under parts only in the weft or warp direction. In particular, the solution of the present invention improves the knitted look on the back side to such an extent that a person wearing a garment made from the fabric of the present invention or looking at the back side, i.e. the side facing the skin, of such a garment would classify the fabric as a knitted fabric. Surprisingly, it was found that this improves the knitted look over the knitted look that would be achieved if there were the same number of hanging under parts only in the warp or weft direction. One of the reasons for this is that the solution of the present invention allows the same number of hanging under parts to be provided with a smaller number of warp threads on the back side compared to the solution known from EP 3 231 907 A1 and a smaller number of weft threads on the back side compared to the solution known from EP 2 539 493 B1. This allows the warp and weft densities of the fabric to be selected to be more similar, resulting in a more uniform fabric that more closely resembles a knitted appearance. Additionally, the inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that by distributing the yarns that provide the necessary number of hanging under parts in the warp and weft directions for the desired knitted look, the yarns that provide these hanging loops less damage the denim-like look of the front side compared to providing such number of yarns only in the warp or weft direction. Another reason is that the hanging under parts extending in the warp and weft directions provide the appearance of a loose woven fabric, independent of the base warp and / or base weft yarns. Additionally, the extension of the hanging under parts in the warp and weft directions provides a visual barrier that better hides the front warp and / or front weft yarns from being seen or felt from the back side of the fabric.

[0026] In particular, at least one anchor yarn under-portion and / or loop yarn under-portion extends behind at least 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 yarns between their restraining over-portions, in particular as described for the above-mentioned embodiment of the invention. It has been found that implementing the hanging under-portion of this embodiment of the invention as a long under-portion as described for the preceding embodiment of the invention results in a significantly improved knitted look on the back side of the woven fabric. In particular, the length excess of at least one of the anchor yarn under-portions is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50%, or 70%. Additionally or alternatively, the length excess of at least one of the loop yarn under-portions is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50%, or 70%.

[0027] The excess length of the under portion compared to the distance between its restrained over portions can be calculated by the following formula:

number

[0028] In particular, the base warp yarn includes an under portion extending at the rear side of at least one of the base weft yarns and an over portion that restrains the base weft under portion and extends at the front side of at least one of the base weft yarns. In particular, the base weft yarn includes an under portion extending at the rear side of at least one of the base warp yarns and an over portion that restrains the base weft under portion and extends at the front side of at least one of the base warp yarns. In particular, the base warp under portion and / or the base weft under portion do not have a length surplus compared to the distance between their restraining over portions or at least a length surplus that is shorter than the length surplus of at least one of the anchor yarn under portion and / or at least one of the loop yarn under portion. In particular, when the base warp under-parts and / or base weft under-parts have a length surplus compared to the distance between their restrained over-parts, the length surplus is less than 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 3%, 2%, or 1%. In particular, by weaving and / or selecting the base warp and / or base weft materials such that their under-parts have no length surplus or have a shorter length surplus than the anchor yarn under-parts and / or loop yarn under-parts, the knitted look of the fabric can be improved on the back side of the fabric by the drooping under-parts of the loop fabric, while the denim look can be maintained or improved, especially by the relatively straight extension of the base warp and weft yarns. In particular, the under-parts without a length surplus extend straight between their restrained over-parts, especially without curvature and / or without spacing with respect to the yarns through which the under-parts extend on the back side.

[0029] According to yet another aspect of the invention, which may be combined with the above-mentioned aspects of the long loops and / or hanging loops in the anchor and loop yarns, the loop yarns do not include an over portion extending in front of the base warp and / or base weft yarns. This aspect of the invention is detailed for an embodiment in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns. In such a configuration, the loop yarns do not include an over portion extending in front of the base warp yarns. However, according to an alternative configuration, the anchor yarns may be weft yarns and the loop yarns may be warp yarns. In such a configuration, the loop yarns do not include an over portion extending in front of the base weft yarns. All the following embodiments of the invention in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns shall be considered to reflect this alternative configuration.

[0030] In particular, the loop fabric is connected to the base fabric only by the over-part of the anchor yarn, which extends over at least one, in particular exactly one, base weft yarn. In particular, the loop yarn is interwoven with only the anchor yarn. As a result, the loop yarn can extend only on the back side of the fabric. Such a loop yarn can in particular be called a hidden yarn. In particular, the loop yarn forms an over-part only with respect to the anchor yarn, but not with respect to the base warp yarn. In particular, the loop yarn does not spoil the appearance of the front side of the fabric. In particular, therefore, this aspect of the invention allows the knitted appearance on the back side to be improved without spoiling the denim-like appearance due to the loop yarn. Additionally, in combination with the hanging anchor yarn under-part and the hanging loop yarn under-part, the loop yarn can provide a hanging loop yarn under-part that is easy to move in the warp direction, since it connects only with the yarn that hangs down by itself, i.e. the anchor yarn. This further improves the knitted appearance.

[0031] In particular, the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns are offset from the front side towards the back side, in particular along their entire extension. In particular, the front side may be defined as an imaginary rectilinear (straight, unbent) plane lying flat on one side of the fabric. The offset of the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns may therefore be understood as their extending at a distance from this imaginary rectilinear plane, in particular along their entire extension. In other words, in particular, the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns are extending at a distance from this imaginary rectilinear plane, in particular along their entire extension. In particular, the offset or distance is at least 5%, 10%, 20%, 30% or 50% of the oblique extension of at least one, in particular all, base warp threads. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, or 100% of the base warp and / or base weft yarns may be in lateral contact with one another. In particular, this allows the base warp and / or base weft yarns to form a tightly woven base warp and / or base weft configuration that hides the anchor and / or loop yarns from being seen or felt on the front side of the woven fabric. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, or 100% of the anchor yarns may be positioned substantially above at least one or two base warp yarns in the anchor yarns-warp configuration. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% or 100% of the loop yarns may be arranged substantially above at least one or two base weft yarns in a configuration in which the loop yarns are weft yarns. In this respect, substantially may be understood to mean that a yarn arranged substantially above another yarn overlaps the other yarn in a direction perpendicular to its extension direction, e.g. in the weft direction in the case of warp yarns, with at least 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95% or 100% of its radial extension range. In the case of 100% overlap, the respective yarn is considered to extend in particular directly above at least one other yarn having a larger radius than the yarn, or two other yarns each having a diameter of at least 50% of the yarn.According to one or more of the above-mentioned embodiments, the anchor yarns and / or loop yarns may be hidden by the base weft and / or warp yarns so that they are not visible or felt on the front side of the fabric, in particular so that the anchor yarns and / or loop yarns can provide a knit-like look on the back side of the fabric without compromising the look, particularly the denim-like look, provided on the front side of the fabric by the base weave.

[0032] Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarn has an axial centerline and defines a base warp / weft plane extending through the axial centerline along an over portion of the base warp yarn extending on the front side of the base weft yarn, and the anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn have an axial centerline, the anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn axial centerline extending on the rear side of the base warp / weft plane, in particular along their entire extension.

[0033] In particular, at least one of the anchor yarn under portions extends along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight loop yarns between the base warp or weft yarn and the loop yarn, and / or along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight base warp yarns in a configuration in which the anchor yarn is a weft yarn, or along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight base weft yarns in a configuration in which the anchor yarn is a warp yarn.

[0034] In configurations where the anchor yarns are warp yarns, the anchor yarn under-parts extending between the base weft yarns and the loop yarns extending along such a minimum number of base weft yarns and loop yarns can be specifically referred to as hidden under-parts. The inventors have found that such hidden under-parts are particularly advantageous, since on the one hand they allow the hidden under-parts to be substantially uninterrupted in this part, especially in their long or drooping extension, and on the other hand they prevent the hidden under-parts in this part from being seen and / or felt on the front side of the textile fabric.

[0035] In particular, the base warp yarn and / or the base weft yarn are elastic yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn are elastic yarns. In particular, the elastic yarns can be described as being elastically stretchable from approximately 10% to approximately 25% of their original length. The initial or original length of the yarn can be measured in a state where there is essentially no tensile tension applied. In particular, the elastic yarns can consist of or include T400, spandex or elastane, for example Lycra® by Invista. Preferably, the elastic yarns are composite yarns comprising at least one inelastic filament and at least one elastic filament consisting of T400, spandex or elastane, for example Lycra® by Invista.

[0036] In particular, the elastic yarn comprises an elastic core and a sheath, in particular a cotton or polyester sheath. In particular, the elastic core may comprise at least one, two or three elastic filaments. In particular, such elastic filaments are extensible to at least about twice their initial length, i.e. package length. After the elastic filament is stressed by elongation at least twice its initial length, at least 90% to 100% elastic recovery occurs. Elastic recovery is a parameter of the elastic performance of said filaments. The percentage elastic recovery represents the ratio of the elastic filament after the release of the tensile stress to the length (package length) of the elastic filament before the tensile stress is applied. In particular, a high percentage of elastic recovery, i.e. 90% to 100%, is considered to provide an elastic ability to return substantially to its initial length after the application of stress. In particular, in contrast to elastic filaments, inelastic filaments are defined by a low percentage of elastic recovery. That is, inelastic filaments are not able to return substantially to their initial length when elongation at least twice their initial length is realized. The elastic recovery of said percentage of filaments can be tested and measured according to standard ASTM D3107, the entire contents of which are expressly incorporated herein by reference. Said test method ASTM D3107 is a test method for fabrics made from yarns. Naturally, the elastic recovery of the yarn itself may deviate from the fabric test results. However, yarn test methods and test equipment can be used to measure filaments and / or yarns individually. For example, the USTER TENSOR RAPID-3 equipment (USTER, Switzerland) can measure the elasticity, breaking force, etc. of yarns or filaments. An example of said test equipment is described in WO 2012 / 062480 A2, which is hereby incorporated by reference.

[0037] In particular, typical examples of elastic filaments are polyurethane fibers such as elastane, spandex and filaments with similar elastic properties. In particular, the elastic filaments according to the invention can be stretched (for example as elongation at break) to at least 300% or 400% of the package length. The package length is to be understood as the initial or original length of the elastic filaments that are essentially not subjected to tensile stress. Examples of particularly usable elastic filaments include, but are not limited to, Dowxla, Dorlastan (Bayer, Germany), Lycra (Invista, USA), Clerrspan (Globe Mfg. Co., USA), Glospan (Globe Mfg. Co., USA), Spandaven (Gomelast CA, Venezuela), Rocia (Asahi Chemical Industries, Japan), Fujibo Spandex (Fujibo, Japan), Kanebowl Lobel 15 (Kanebo, Japan), Spantel (Kuraray, Japan), Mobilon (Nisshinbo), Operon (Toray-DuPont), Espa (Toyobo), Acelan (Teakwang Industries), Texlon (Tongkook Synthetic), Toplon (Hyosung), Yantai (Yantei Spandex), Linel, Linetex (Fillatice SpA). Generally, these elastic filaments provide sufficient elastic properties as a base for the yarn. It should be noted that elastic filaments made from polyolefins can also be used. Besides this, suitable elastic performance filaments can be formed from a number of elastic monofilaments according to their (own) manufacturing process. These are combined with each other to form a single or one elastic performance filament. The single elastic filament can be used as an intermediate product after its manufacturing step, i.e. the manufacturing process itself has been terminated. However, each single elastic filament, especially provided on a mandrel or the like, can in particular always be used to realize an elastic thread, in particular an elastic base warp thread and / or a base weft thread. In particular, the base warp yarns, base weft yarns, anchor yarns and / or loop yarns may comprise a filamentary core as described in WO 2016 / 135211 and / or may be an elastic composite yarn as described in WO 2016 / 135211, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0038] The inventors have found that it is particularly advantageous to use elastic base warp and / or base weft yarns, because they can be used on the one hand to provide the anchor and / or loop yarns with a hanging under section when the fabric is removed from the loom, and to provide the woven fabric with stretching capabilities in the warp and weft directions. In particular, in combination with the hanging anchor and / or loop yarn under sections, which are non-elastic yarns, such as pure cotton or polyester yarns, a safety mechanism can be established in the warp and / or weft directions, thus avoiding overstretching of the fabric in the warp and / or weft directions immediately after the excess length of the hanging under section has been compensated for by the stretching of the woven fabric in the respective direction. In particular, this can avoid the sagging appearance of the woven fabric, which may result from the overstretching of the elastic yarns.

[0039] In particular, the anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn have a lower elasticity than the base warp yarn and / or the base weft yarn. In particular, the anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn are non-elastic yarns, in particular cotton or polyester yarns. In particular, non-elastic yarns can be described as yarns that cannot be stretched beyond a maximum length without permanent deformation. Said maximum length is less than 1.05 times its original length, preferably less than 1.02 times, or not at all. In particular, typical materials for non-elastic yarns are natural fibers such as cotton and wool, polyester, nylon, etc.

[0040] Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns and / or the base weft yarns have a higher shrinkage than the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns. In particular, the shrinkage of the base warp yarns and / or the base weft yarns is at least 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30% higher than the shrinkage of the base warp yarns and / or is at most 200%, 150%, 100%, 80%, 50%, 45%, 40% or 35% higher. In particular, the shrinkage relates to the shrinkage that occurs when the fabric is removed from the loom, when the yarns and / or the fabric made from these yarns are washed or wetted, and / or to heat shrinkage. In particular, a method for measuring the shrinkage of yarns is described in EP 3 231 907, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0041] It has been found that the use of a base warp and / or weft yarn having a greater shrinkage percentage than the anchor and / or loop yarn is particularly advantageous in that it can be used to provide the anchor and / or loop yarn with the loose under portion described above.

[0042] In particular, the base warp threads and / or the base weft threads have a greater weave tightness than the anchor threads and / or the loop threads. In particular, the sum of the number of over and under parts of one thread relative to the number of picks bypassed by the over and under parts defines the weave tightness of the yam. In particular, the term "greater weave tightness" is to be understood as each thread having a greater weave tightness constitutes more undulations than a thread having a lower weave tightness. In particular, undulation means that in the case of a warp thread, the warp thread goes in front of the weft thread, passes in front of a given number of weft threads (defining the over part) and then goes down behind the weft thread. In particular, for the same unit length of fabric, in the case of a warp thread in the warp direction, the number of undulations of the thread having a greater weave tightness is greater than the number of undulations of the thread having a smaller weave tightness.

[0043] In particular, after weaving the fabric, the warp and weft threads are wavy rather than straight. This effect can be referred to as crimping and, depending on the yarns involved, can also be referred to as warp crimp or weft crimp. For example, a straight warp thread of 100 cm can in particular be woven to a fabric length of less than 100 cm, for example 98-89 cm. In particular, the short length in the warp direction of the woven fabric relative to the original length of the warp thread can be referred to as the crimp rate. In particular, the crimp rate depends on the diameter of the warp and weft threads, the density of the warp and weft threads, as well as the weaving pattern. If the warp threads change up and down with each successive weft thread, a 1:1 weaving pattern is achieved and in particular maximum corrugation or maximum warp crimp can occur. By this movement of the warp threads up and down with each successive weft thread, the greatest possible weaving tightness is achieved. If the separate warp yarns define a pattern in which over sections bypassing one weft yarn alternate with under sections bypassing five weft yarns (which may be called a 1 / 5 weave pattern), the weave tightness will be much lower.

[0044] In particular, by selecting base warp yarns and / or base weft yarns to have a higher fabric tightness than anchor yarns and / or loop yarns, a hanging anchor yarn under portion and / or loop yarn under portion can be provided.

[0045] In particular, the base warp yarns and / or the base weft yarns are tensioned, in particular remain tensioned after the woven fabric is removed from the weaving loom, and / or the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns are not tensioned. In particular, the base warp yarns, base weft yarns, anchor yarns, and / or loop yarns are composite yarns or contain a fibrous core as described and claimed in WO 2020 / 211977, which is incorporated herein by reference. Suitably, the base warp yarns and base weft yarns are such composite yarns and / or contain such a fibrous core.

[0046] In particular, at least one, in particular all, of said base warp threads and / or base weft threads are indigo dyed and / or said anchor threads and / or said loop threads are not indigo dyed.

[0047] In particular, the base warp yarns are indigo dyed and the base weft yarns are undyed. Particularly in combination with the warp surface structure, this can provide the typical indigo blue look of the front side of denim fabric, while the back side remains substantially white. When ring-dyed yarns are used with indigo-dyed yarns, the indigo dye is most concentrated on the surface of the yarn, while the core of the yarn remains undyed, resulting in very distinctive coloring options. Various finishing processes can be applied to the woven fabric to improve the coloring properties. For example, the woven fabric can be hand scraped, sandblasted, stone washed, or otherwise treated to make the undyed core, particularly of the indigo yarn, visible in various amounts. Particularly in combination with the long and / or hanging anchor yarn under-portions and loop yarn under-portions described above, the use of dyed base warp yarns and / or dyed base weft yarns in combination with undyed anchor yarns and undyed loop yarns can provide very good protection from dirt to the back side of the woven fabric, particularly the wearer's skin in contact with the back side.

[0048] In particular, at least one, in particular all, of said base warp and / or base weft threads are thicker than at least one, in particular all, of said anchor threads and / or said loop threads. The inventors have found that by selecting particularly thick base warp and / or base weft threads, the hiding effect of the anchor threads and / or loop threads by the base warp and / or weft threads and the above-mentioned tightly woven base warp and / or weft thread configuration are improved. In particular, this improves the hiding effect of the anchor threads and / or loop threads from being visible or felt on the front side of the textile fabric, thereby avoiding the anchor threads and / or loop threads from spoiling the appearance of the front side, in particular the denim-like appearance provided by the base textile. The inventors have found that this effect can be surprisingly improved by selecting base warp and base weft threads thicker than the anchor threads and / or loop threads.

[0049] In particular, the base warp threads have a thread count of 7 to 30 Ne, in particular of 7 to 20 Ne, more particularly of 7 to 10 Ne. In particular alternatively, the base warp threads have a thread count of 20 to 30 Ne or 10 to 20 Ne.

[0050] In particular, said base weft threads have a thread count of 10 to 40 Ne, in particular of 10 to 30 Ne, more particularly of 10 to 20 Ne. In particular alternatively, the base weft threads have a thread count of 30 to 40 Ne or 20 to 30 Ne. In particular, the anchor thread has a thread count of 10 to 75 Ne, in particular 30 to 75 Ne, more in particular 50 to 75 Ne. In particular alternatively, the anchor thread has a thread count of 10 to 30 Ne or 30 to 50 Ne.

[0051] In particular, the loop yarns have a yarn count of 40 to 90 Ne, in particular 60 to 90 Ne, more in particular 70 to 90 Ne. In particular alternatively, the loop yarns have a yarn count of 40 to 60 Ne or 60 to 70 Ne.

[0052] In particular, the base warp yarns and / or the base weft yarns have a higher yarn density than the anchor yarns and / or the loop yarns.

[0053] In particular, the base warp threads have a thread density of 20 to 60 threads / cm, in particular 20 to 40 threads / cm, more in particular 20 to 30 threads / cm. In particular alternatively, the base warp threads have a thread density of 40 to 60 threads / cm or 30 to 40 threads / cm.

[0054] In particular, the base weft threads have a thread density of 10 to 50 threads / cm, in particular 20 to 40 threads / cm, more in particular 20 to 30 threads / cm. In particular alternatively, the base weft threads have a thread density of 30 to 50 threads / cm or 10 to 20 threads / cm.

[0055] In particular, the anchor thread has a thread density of 5 to 30 threads / cm, in particular 5 to 20 threads / cm, more particularly 10 to 20 threads / cm. In particular alternatively, the anchor thread has a thread density of 20 to 30 threads / cm or 5 to 10 threads / cm.

[0056] In particular, the loop yarns have a thread density of 5 to 30 threads / cm, in particular 5 to 20 threads / cm, more in particular 5 to 10 threads / cm. In particular alternatively, the loop yarns have a thread density of 20 to 30 threads / cm or 10 to 20 threads / cm.

[0057] In particular, the woven fabric has a fabric weight of 6 to 16 oz / yd, in particular 8 to 14 oz / yd, more particularly 10 to 12 oz / yd. In particular, the anchor yarns and the base warp or weft yarns are interleaved, in particular such that each anchor yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp or weft yarns, and / or such that each base warp or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, anchor yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the loop yarns and the base warp or weft yarns are interleaved, in particular such that each loop yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp or weft yarns, and / or such that each base warp or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, loop yarns.

[0058] In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under-portion is at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, or 100% of the anchor yarn under-portion. In other words, one or more of the features described above and below with respect to the at least one anchor yarn under-portion are realized in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, or 100% of the under-portion of the anchor yarn, in particular in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, or 100% of the anchor yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the at least one loop yarn under-portion is at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, or 100% of the loop yarn under-portion. In other words, one or more of the features described above and below with respect to at least one loop yarn under portion are realized in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the loop yarn under portions, in particular in at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of the loop yarns.

[0059] The present invention also relates to a garment, in particular a pair of trousers, more in particular a pair of denim trousers, comprising a textile fabric according to any of the aspects of the invention described above or any of its embodiments, in particular wherein said front side is the side visible when said garment is worn and / or said back side is the side facing the skin of the wearer.

[0060] The present invention also relates to a method for producing a textile fabric according to any of the above aspects of the invention or any of its embodiments and / or for producing a garment as described above, in particular the method may be carried out such that such a textile fabric or garment may be produced.

[0061] Preferred embodiments of the invention are set forth in the dependent claims. Further advantages, features and characteristics of the invention will become apparent from the following description of preferred embodiments shown in the drawings. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0062] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 shows a schematic diagram of an exemplary woven fabric according to the present invention. [Figure 2a]FIG. 2a, which does not represent an embodiment of the present invention, illustrates diagrammatically the extension of the anchor yarn under portion and the loop yarn under portion when the woven fabric is on the loom. [Figure 2b] FIG. 2b, not representing an embodiment of the present invention, illustrates generally the drooping nature of the anchor yarn under portion and the loop yarn under portion after the woven fabric is removed from the loom. [Diagram 3] FIG. 3 shows a first example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 4] FIG. 4 shows a second example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Diagram 5] FIG. 5 shows a third example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 6] FIG. 6 shows a fourth example of the woven structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 7] FIG. 7 shows a fifth example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 8] FIG. 8 shows a sixth example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 9] FIG. 9 shows a seventh example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 10] FIG. 10 shows an eighth example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 11] FIG. 11 shows a ninth example of the weave structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. [Figure 12] FIG. 12 shows a tenth example of the woven structure of the woven fabric of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0063] FIG. 1 shows an exemplary schematic embodiment of a woven fabric 1 according to the present invention. The woven fabric 1 comprises a base fabric including base warp threads 3 and base weft threads 5. The base warp threads 3 and the base weft threads 5 are woven into the base fabric such that the base warp threads 3 include an under portion 13 extending behind one weft thread 5 and an over portion 23 that binds the base warp under portion 13 and extends in front of the three base weft threads 5. The base weft threads 5 include an under portion 15 extending behind the three base warp threads 3 and an over portion 25 that binds the base weft under portion 15 and extends in front of the one base warp thread 3. The base weft over portions 25 of adjacent base weft threads 5 are offset obliquely with respect to each other to provide the base fabric with a diagonal pattern on the front side FS. The base fabric has a 3 / 1 weave that provides the base fabric with a typical denim look on the front side (FS).

[0064] The woven fabric further comprises a loop fabric including an anchor yarn 7 and a loop yarn 9 extending perpendicular to the anchor yarn 7. In the illustrated embodiment of FIG. 1, the anchor yarn 7 is a warp yarn and the loop yarn 9 is a weft yarn. This is also true for the weaving patterns shown in FIGS. 3-12 and described below. However, as mentioned above, it is also within the scope of the present invention that the anchor yarn 7 is a weft yarn and the loop yarn 9 is a warp yarn. In the claims and the description of the present invention, when it is stated that the over portion or the under portion extends along the base warp yarn 3 or the base weft yarn 5, the option "or" relates to these alternative configurations. In other words, in the embodiment where the anchor yarn 7 is a warp yarn, the anchor yarn under portion 17 and the anchor yarn over portion 27 described below extend at the front and back sides, respectively, of the base weft yarn. In the alternative configuration where the anchor yarn 7 is a weft yarn and the loop yarn 9 is a warp yarn, the anchor yarn over portion 17 and the over portion 27 described below extend at the back and front sides, respectively, of the base warp yarn 3. The same applies mutatis mutandis to the loop yarn 9. In the illustrated embodiment where the loop yarn is the weft yarn, the below and above described loop yarn under portion 19 and over portion 29 extend respectively at the rear and front sides of the base warp yarn 3. However, in an alternative configuration where the anchor yarn 7 is the weft yarn and the loop yarn is the warp yarn, the respectively described loop yarn under portion 19 and loop yarn over portion 29 extend respectively at the rear and front sides of the base weft yarn 5.

[0065] In the following, an embodiment will be described in which the anchor yarn 7 is a warp yarn and the loop yarn 9 is a weft yarn. However, as described above, an embodiment in which the anchor yarn 7 is a weft yarn and the loop yarn 9 is a warp yarn is also within the scope of the present invention. In this case, as described above, the anchor yarn under portion 17 and the anchor yarn over portion 27 do not extend behind the base weft yarn 5 and in front of the base weft yarn 5, respectively, but extend behind the base warp yarn 3 and in front of the base warp yarn 3, respectively. The same applies mutatis mutandis to the loop yarn 9.

[0066] The woven fabric 1 shown in Figure 1 has a front side FS and a back side BS. The side facing the viewer of Figure 1 is the back side BS. The side facing away from the viewer is the front side FS. Each of the base warp yarns 3, base weft yarns 5, anchor yarns 7, and loop yarns 9 has a front side facing the front side FS and a back side facing the back side BS. For illustrative purposes, the front side FS and the back side BS are shown in Figures 2a and 2b.

[0067] In Fig. 1, the anchor threads 7 and the base warp threads 3 are alternated such that in the weft direction each anchor thread 7 is followed by a group of two base warp threads 3. In the weft direction each group of two base warp threads 3 is followed by a single anchor thread. Besides this preferred embodiment of the invention, the anchor threads 7 may be alternated with the warp threads 3 such that each anchor thread 7 is followed by a single base warp thread 3 or by more than two base warp threads.

[0068] Additionally or alternatively, the anchor yarns 7 may be interleaved with the base warp yarns 3 such that each base warp yarn 3 or group of base warp yarns 3 is followed by a group of at least two adjacent anchor yarns 7 .

[0069] In Fig. 1, the loop yarns 9 are alternated with the base weft yarns 5 such that each loop yarn 9 is followed in the warp direction by a group of two adjacent base weft yarns 5. Each of these groups of two adjacent base weft yarns 5 is followed in the warp direction by a single loop yarn 9. Besides this embodiment, a loop yarn 9 may be followed in the warp direction by a single base weft yarn 5. Additionally or alternatively, each base weft yarn 5 or group of two adjacent base weft yarns may be followed in the warp direction by a group of at least two adjacent loop yarns 9.

[0070] In FIG. 1, each anchor thread 7 has a plurality of under portions 17 extending behind the five base weft threads 5, and a plurality of over portions 27 that restrain each of the anchor thread under portions 17 and extend in front of one of the base weft threads 5 to connect the anchor thread under portions 17 to the base fabric.

[0071] Furthermore, each loop yarn 9 has a plurality of under portions 19 extending behind the plurality of anchor yarns 7 and behind the plurality of base warp yarns 3. The loop yarn 9 further has a plurality of over portions 29 that restrain the plurality of loop yarn under portions 19 and extend in front of at least one of the anchor yarns 7.

[0072] The above-mentioned embodiment of the invention, in which at least one anchor thread under-portion 17 and loop thread under-portion 19 extend behind at least five threads between their restraining over-portions 27, 29, can be seen in Fig. 1. Here, the anchor thread under-portion 17 extends behind five base weft threads 5 between their restraining anchor thread over-portions 27. As shown in Fig. 1, a part of the anchor thread under-portions 17 further extends behind one loop thread 9, so that they extend behind six threads in total, i.e. five base weft threads 5 and one loop thread 9. It is clear that the number of threads along which the anchor thread under-portion 17 extends represents the sum of the base weft threads 5 and loop threads 9 which the anchor thread under-portion 17 extends behind between their restraining anchor thread over-portions 27. As can be seen in the various embodiments of the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12, the aspect of the invention regarding the number of yarns through which the anchor yarn under-portion 17 passes does not necessarily relate only to the number of base weft yarns 5 and / or loop yarns 9. For example, as shown in Figure 12, the anchor yarn under-portion 17 may extend only between the constraining anchor yarn over-portions 27 behind two loop yarns 9, as long as they also extend further between the constraining anchor yarn over-portions 27 behind at least three base weft yarns 5. The same applies mutatis mutandis to the number of yarns that the loop yarn under-portion 19 bypasses between the constraining loop yarn over-portions 29.

[0073] In Fig. 1, the loop yarn under-portions 19 extend behind at least five anchor yarns 7 between their restrained over-portions 29. Since the anchor yarns 7 are alternately arranged with groups of two adjacent base warp yarns 3, the loop yarn under-portions 19 further extend behind six groups of two base warp yarns 5 (in other words, behind twelve base warp yarns 5) between their restrained over-portions 29. Thus, in total, the loop yarn under-portions 19 extend behind at least 17 yarns between their restrained over-portions 29.

[0074] Also shown in Fig. 1 is an embodiment of the present invention in which at least one of the anchor yarn under portion 17 and the loop yarn under portion 19 is drooping due to an excess in length compared to the distance between their restrained over portions 27, 29. In Fig. 1, the anchor yarn under portion 17 curves and extends at a distance from the base weft yarn 5 and the loop yarn 9 at the rear of which they extend. The same is true for the loop yarn under portion 19, which curves and extends at a distance from the base warp yarn 3 and the anchor yarn 7 at the rear of which they extend. In contrast, the base warp yarn under portion 13 and the base weft yarn under portion 15 are in contact with the yarns 5, 3 at the rear of which they extend.

[0075] A method for calculating the length excess of the anchor yarn under-part 17 and the loop yarn under-part 19 in comparison with the distance between their restrained over-parts 27, 29 can be explained based on FIG. 2b. In FIG. 2b, a plurality of hanging under-parts are shown in a series. However, as mentioned above, unlike FIG. 2b, the fabric of the present invention may comprise a plurality of hanging under-parts in the warp direction and in the weft direction. In FIG. 2b, it can be seen that the hanging under-parts 17, 19 extend in a curved manner at a distance from the yarns 3, 5 to which they extend at the rear side. The hanging under-parts 17, 19 are restrained by two over-parts 27, 29 that extend at the front side of the yarns 3, 5. The length excess of the under-parts 13, 15, 17, 19 in comparison with the distance between their restrained over-parts 23, 25, 27, 29 can be calculated by the following formula:

number

[0076] An aspect of the invention in which the loop yarns 9 do not include an over portion that extends in front of the base warp yarns 3 and / or base weft yarns 5 is shown in Figure 1. As noted above, Figure 1 shows an embodiment in which the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns 5. Respectively, with respect to Figure 1, this aspect of the invention requires that the loop yarns 9 do not include an over portion that extends in front of the base warp yarns 3. In other words, the loop yarns 9 do not extend in front of the base warp yarns 3.

[0077] As shown in FIG. 1, the anchor yarns 7 and the loop yarns 9 are offset from the front side FS along their entire extent. To check whether the loop yarns 9 and the anchor yarns 7 are spaced apart from the front side FS, the front side FS can be defined as an imaginary linear plane lying flat on one side of the fabric. Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns 3 can be said to have an axial centerline and to define a base warp / weft plane that extends through the centerline along the over portion 23 of the base warp yarns 3 that extends in front of the base weft yarns 5. Here, the anchor yarns 7 and / or the loop yarns 9 have an axial centerline, and the axial centerlines of the anchor yarns 7 and / or the loop yarns 9, in particular along their entire extent, extend behind the base warp / weft plane. The term "axial centerline" as used here refers in particular to the longitudinal axis of the yarn, in other words to the line that connects the centers (midpoints) of the cross sections of the respective yarns, in particular of the cross sections of the infinite slices that are arranged longitudinally side by side to form the yarn. In particular, the axial centerline follows the progression of the yarn. In other words, if the yarns are curved or concave, the axial centerline will be curved or concave. In FIG. 1, the anchor yarn under portion 17 extends between the base weft yarn 5 and the loop yarn 9, along one or two loop yarns 9, and along five base weft yarns 5.

[0078] The drooping nature of the anchor yarn under-part 17 and / or the loop yarn under-part 19 can be achieved, for example, by selecting elastic yarns for the base warp yarns 3 and / or the base weft yarns 5 and / or by selecting the anchor yarns 7 and / or the loop yarns 9 to have lower elasticity than the base warp yarns 3 and / or the base weft yarns 5. Additionally or alternatively, the drooping nature can be achieved by selecting the base warp yarns 3 and / or the base weft yarns 5 having a higher shrinkage rate than the anchor yarns 7 and / or the loop yarns 9. As exemplarily shown in FIG. 2b, tension can be applied to the base warp yarns 3 and / or the base weft yarns 5 after the woven fabric 1 is removed from the loom. Additionally or alternatively, tension can be not applied to the anchor yarn under-part 17 and / or the loop yarn under-part 19.

[0079] As shown in FIG. 1 , the base warp yarns 3 may be thicker than the anchor yarns 7 and / or the loop yarns 9. Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns 3 may be thicker than the base weft yarns 5. Additionally or alternatively, the anchor yarns 7 may be thicker than the loop yarns 9.

[0080] The present invention will be described in detail below with respect to ten embodiments shown in Figs. 3 to 12. In all these weaving patterns, the vertical direction is the warp direction and the horizontal direction is the weft direction. All these weaving patterns have a base warp thread 3, a base weft thread 5, an anchor thread 7 and a loop thread 9. All these weaving patterns have three sub-weaving patterns, namely, an selvedge sub-weaving pattern 31, a base warp thread sub-weaving pattern 33 and an anchor thread sub-weaving pattern 37. In Fig. 3, the selvedge sub-weaving pattern 31 is highlighted by a frame 31 consisting of all the weft threads 5, 9 and the first two warp threads in the weft direction. The base warp thread sub-weaving pattern 33 is highlighted by a frame 33 consisting of all the weft threads 5, 9 and the base warp thread 3. The anchor thread sub-weaving pattern 37 is highlighted by a frame 37 consisting of all the weft threads 5, 9 and the anchor thread 7.

[0081] In all the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12, an alternation of the base weft yarns 5 and the loop yarns 9 is specified. In the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3, 4 and 7, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are interleaved such that a single loop yarn 9 is followed by a group of two base weft yarns 5. In the weaving patterns shown in Figures 5, 8 and 9, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are interleaved such that a group of two loop yarns 9 is followed by a group of two base weft yarns 5. In the weaving patterns shown in Figures 6, 10, 11 and 12, the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are interleaved such that a single loop yarn 9 is followed by a single base weft yarn 5.

[0082] The interleaving of the base warp threads 3 and the anchor threads 7 in contrast to the interleaving of the loop threads 9 and the base weft threads 5 is not specified in the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12. A preferred interleaving of the anchor threads 7 and the base warp threads 3 for any of the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12 is the interleaving shown in Figure 3 above. According to this, each anchor thread 7 is interleaved with the base warp threads 3 such that a single anchor thread 7 is followed in the weft direction by a group of two base warp threads 3. However, it is clear that the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12 can also be realized by a different interleaving of the anchor threads 7 and the base warp threads 3, for example as described above.

[0083] The base warp sub-weaving pattern 33 shows how the base weft yarns 5 and loop yarns 9 are interwoven with the base warp yarns 3. This means that regardless of the alternation of the base warp yarns 3 and the anchor yarns 7, the base weft yarns 5 and loop yarns 9 are always woven with the base warp yarns 3 as shown in the base warp sub-weaving pattern 33. As can be seen by comparing Figs. 3 to 12, in all the base warp sub-weaving patterns 33 in Figs. 3 to 12, the base weft yarns 5 are woven with the base warp yarns 3 in a 3 / 1 alternation so that the base weft yarns 5 include an over portion 25 extending in front of one base warp yarn 3 and an over portion 25 extending behind three base warp yarns 3 between two restraining over portions 25. In contrast, in all the base warp sub-weaving patterns 33 shown in Figs. 3 to 12, the loop yarns 9 do not include an over portion extending in front of the base warp yarns 3. In other words, the loop yarns 9 are always behind the base warp yarns 3. The base weft over portion 25 extending in front of the base warp yarns 3 forms a diagonal pattern in all the base warp sub-fabric patterns 33 shown in Figures 3 to 12, so as to provide the base fabric with the diagonal look of denim fabric.

[0084] Next, the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37 will be described in detail separately for each of the weaving patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12. In Figure 3, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind six anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by one short under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind the intermediate over portion.

[0085] In FIG. 3, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend in front of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17. As shown in the small frame consisting of such an anchor yarn under portion 17 and its two restraining over portions 27, the anchor yarn under portion 17 can further extend behind two loop yarns 9 (black box) and in front of three loop yarns 9 (white box) between their restraining over portions 27. Respectively, the framed anchor yarn under portion 17 extends behind ten yarns, i.e., behind eight base weft yarns 5 and behind two loop yarns 9 between their restraining over portions 27. The over and under portions of the base weft yarns 5 and loop yarns 9 are arranged in a diagonal pattern in all the examples shown in FIG. 3 to FIG. 12.

[0086] In FIG. 4, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind four anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by two short under portions extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind the respective intermediate over portions 29.

[0087] In Fig. 4, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends in front of one base weft yarn 5 and extends behind eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0088] In FIG. 5, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind six anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by one short under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind each intermediate over portion 29.

[0089] In Fig. 5, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0090] In FIG. 6, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind six anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by one short under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind each intermediate over portion 29.

[0091] In Fig. 6, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0092] 7, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind the eight anchor yarns 7.

[0093] In Fig. 7, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0094] 8, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind the eight anchor yarns 7.

[0095] In Fig. 8, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0096] In FIG. 9, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind four anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by two short under portions extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind the respective intermediate over portions 29.

[0097] In Fig. 9, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0098] In FIG. 10, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind four anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by two short under portions extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind the respective intermediate over portions 29.

[0099] In Fig. 10, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0100] 11 , in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind the eight anchor yarns 7.

[0101] In Fig. 11, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0102] In FIG. 12, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the base weft yarn 5 includes an under portion extending behind one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained over portion extending in front of eight anchor yarns 7. In the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern 37, the loop yarn 9 includes an over portion 29 extending in front of one anchor yarn 7 and a constrained loop yarn under portion 19 extending between the constrained over portions 29 behind two anchor yarns 7. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called long under portions. In the weft direction, each long under portion 19 is followed by three short under portions extending behind one anchor yarn 7 behind the respective intermediate over portions 29.

[0103] In Fig. 12, in the anchor yarn sub-weaving pattern, the anchor yarn 7 includes an under portion 17. The under portion 17 extends on the rear side of eight base weft yarns 5 between two restraining anchor yarn over portions 27 that extend on the front side of one base weft yarn 5 and restrain the anchor yarn under portion 17.

[0104] The features disclosed in the above description, in the drawings and in the claims may be important for the realization of the invention in its different embodiments either separately or in any combination. [Explanation of symbols]

[0105] 1. Woven fabric 3 Base Warp 5 Base Weft 7 Anchor Thread 9 Loop Yarn 13 Base warp under part 15 Base weft under part 17 Anchor thread under part 19 Loop Yarn Under Part 23 Base warp over part 25 Base weft over part 27 Anchor thread over part 29 Loop yarn over part 31 Selvedge Sub-Weaving Pattern 33 Base Warp Sub-Fabric Pattern 37 Anchor Yarn Sub-Weaving Pattern FS front side BS back side

Claims

1. - a base fabric comprising base warp threads (3) and base weft threads (5), - a loop fabric comprising an anchor thread (7) and a loop thread (9) extending perpendicularly to said anchor thread (7), - a front side (FS) and a back side (BS), A textile fabric (1), in particular a denim fabric, comprising: each of the base warp yarns (3), the base weft yarns (5), the anchor yarns (7) and the loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the front side (FS) and a back side facing the back side (BS), each anchor yarn (7) comprising at least one under portion (17) extending on the back side of at least one of the base warp yarns or weft yarns (5) and two over portions (27) binding at least one of the anchor yarn under portions (17), the over portions (27) extending on the front side of at least one of the base warp yarns or weft yarns (5) thereby connecting the anchor yarn under portion (17) to the base fabric, each loop yarn (9) comprises at least one under portion (19) extending on the rear side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7) and two over portions (29) binding at least one of said loop yarn under portions (19), said over portion (29) extending on the front side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7); at least one of the anchor yarn under-portion (17) and loop yarn under-portion (19) extends on the rear side of at least five yarns between their restraining over-portions (27, 29); Woven fabric (1).

2. at least one of the anchor thread under-portions (17) extends behind at least 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 threads (5, 9) between its restraining over-portions (27); and / or At least one of the loop yarn under portions (19) extends between its restrained over portions (29) behind at least 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, or 26 yarns (3, 7); A textile fabric (1) according to claim 1.

3. At least one of the anchor thread under-portions (17) is provided between its restrained over-portions (27): - extending behind at least 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 base warp or weft threads (5), and / or - extending on said rear side of at least 1, 2, 3 or 4 loop threads (9), and / or - extending at said front side of at least 5, 6, 7 or 8 loop threads (9), A textile fabric (1) according to claim 1 or 2.

4. At least one of the loop yarn under portions (19) is, between its restrained over portions (29), - extending behind at least 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 base warp threads (3) or weft threads, and / or - extending at said rear side of at least 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 anchor threads (7), The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

5. - a base fabric comprising base warp threads (3) and base weft threads (5), - a loop fabric comprising an anchor thread (7) and a loop thread (9) extending perpendicularly to said anchor thread (7), - a front side (FS) and a back side (BS), A textile fabric (1), in particular a denim fabric, comprising: Each of the base warp yarns (3), the base weft yarns (5), the anchor yarns (7), and the loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the front side (FS) and a back side facing the back side (BS), each anchor thread (7) comprises at least one under portion (17) extending on the rear side of at least one of the base warp or weft threads (5) and two over portions (27) binding at least one of the anchor thread under portions (17), the over portions (27) extending on the front side of at least one of the base warp or weft threads (5) connecting the anchor thread under portion (17) to the base fabric, each loop yarn (9) comprises at least one under portion (19) extending on the rear side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7) and two over portions (29) binding at least one of said loop yarn under portions (19), said over portion (29) extending on the front side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7); at least one of the anchor thread under-portion (17) and the loop thread under-portion (19) is drooping due to a surplus in length compared to the distance between their restrained over-portions (27, 29); Woven fabric (1).

6. the excess length of at least one of the anchor thread under-portions (17) is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%; and / or the length excess of at least one of the loop yarn under-parts (19) is at least 10%, 20%, 30%, 50% or 70%; 6. The woven fabric of claim 5.

7. The base warp yarn (3) includes an under portion (13) extending on the rear side of at least one of the base weft yarns (5), and an over portion (23) that restrains the base weft under portion (13), the over portion (23) extending on the front side of at least one of the base weft yarns (5), The base weft (5) includes an under portion (15) extending on the rear side of at least one of the base warp threads (3), and an over portion (25) that restrains the base weft under portion (15), the over portion (25) extending on the front side of at least one of the base warp threads (3), and in particular, the base warp under portion (13) and / or the base weft under portion (15) do not have a length surplus compared to the distance between their restrained over portions (23, 25) or at least a length surplus that is shorter than the length surplus of at least one anchor yarn under portion (17) and / or at least one loop yarn under portion (19); 7. The woven fabric according to claim 5 or 6.

8. - a base fabric comprising base warp threads (3) and base weft threads (5), - a loop fabric comprising an anchor thread (7) and a loop thread (9) extending perpendicularly to said anchor thread (7), - a front side (FS) and a back side (BS), A textile fabric (1), in particular a denim fabric, comprising: Each of the base warp yarns (3), the base weft yarns (5), the anchor yarns (7), and the loop yarns (9) has a front side facing the front side (FS) and a back side facing the back side (BS), each anchor thread (7) comprises at least one under portion (17) extending on the rear side of at least one of the base warp or weft threads (5) and two over portions (27) binding at least one of the anchor thread under portions (17), the over portions (27) extending on the front side of at least one of the base warp or weft threads (5) connecting the anchor thread under portion (17) to the base fabric, each loop yarn (9) comprises at least one under portion (19) extending on the rear side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7) and two over portions (29) binding at least one of said loop yarn under portions (19), said over portion (29) extending on the front side of at least one of said anchor yarns (7); - the loop threads (9) do not include over portions extending on the front side of the base warp threads (3) and / or the base weft threads, Woven fabric (1).

9. said anchor threads (7) and / or said loop threads (9) are offset, in particular along their entire extent, from said front side (FS) towards said back side (BS); and / or The base warp yarn (3) has an axial centerline and defines a base warp / weft plane extending through the axial centerline along an over portion (23) of the base warp yarn (3) extending on the front side of the base weft yarn (5); The anchor yarn (7) and / or the loop yarn (9) have an axial centerline, The anchor yarn and / or the loop yarn axial centerline, in particular along their entire extension, extend on the rear side of the base warp / weft plane; A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

10. at least one of said anchor thread under-parts (17) extends between said base warp or weft threads (5) and said loop threads (9) along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight loop threads (9) and / or along at least two, in particular three, four, five, six, seven or eight base warp or weft threads (5); A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

11. said base warp threads (3) and / or said base weft threads (5) are elastic threads, in particular comprising an elastic core and sheath, in particular a cotton or polyester sheath, and / or the anchor threads (7) and / or the loop threads (9) have a lower elasticity than the base warp threads (3) and / or the base weft threads (5), and / or - the base warp threads (3) and / or the base weft threads (5) have a higher shrinkage rate than the anchor threads (7) and / or the loop threads (9), and / or the base warp threads (3) and / or the base weft threads (5) have a greater weaving tightness than the anchor threads (7) and / or the loop threads (9), and / or - the base warp threads (3) and / or the base weft threads (5) are tensioned, and / or - no tension is applied to the anchor threads (7) and / or loop threads (9); A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

12. at least one, in particular all, of said base warp threads (3) and / or base weft threads (5) are indigo dyed and / or said anchor threads (7) and / or said loop threads (9) are not indigo dyed, A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

13. at least one, in particular all, of said base warp threads (3) and / or base weft threads (5) is thicker than at least one, in particular all, of said anchor threads (7) and / or said loop threads (9); and / or said base warp threads (3) have a thread count of 7 to 30 Ne, in particular 7 to 20 Ne, more particularly 7 to 10 Ne, and / or said base weft thread (5) has a thread count of 10 to 40 Ne, in particular 10 to 30 Ne, more particularly 10 to 20 Ne, and / or said anchor thread (7) has a thread count of 10 to 75 Ne, in particular 30 to 75 Ne, more particularly 50 to 75 Ne, and / or said loop yarns (9) have a yarn count of 40 to 90 Ne, in particular 60 to 90 Ne, more particularly 70 to 90 Ne; A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

14. - said base warp threads (3) and / or base weft threads (5) have a higher thread density than said anchor threads (7) and / or said loop threads (9), and / or said base warp threads (3) have a thread density of 20 to 60 threads / cm, in particular 20 to 40 threads / cm, more in particular 20 to 30 threads / cm, and / or said base weft threads (5) have a thread density of 10 to 50 threads / cm, in particular 20 to 40 threads / cm, more in particular 20 to 30 threads / cm, and / or said anchor threads (7) have a thread density of 5 to 30 threads / cm, in particular 5 to 20 threads / cm, more in particular 10 to 20 threads / cm, and / or said loop threads (9) have a thread density of 5 to 30 threads / cm, in particular 5 to 20 threads / cm, more in particular 10 to 20 threads / cm, and / or the textile fabric (1) has a fabric weight of 6 to 16 oz / yd, in particular 8 to 14 oz / yd, more in particular 10 to 12 oz / yd; A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

15. the anchor threads (7) and the base warp threads (3) or weft threads are interleaved, in particular such that each anchor thread (7) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp threads (3) or weft threads, and / or such that each base warp thread (3) or weft thread is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, anchor threads (7), and / or - said loop threads (9) and said base warp or weft threads (5) are interleaved, in particular such that each loop thread (9) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp or weft threads (5) and / or each base warp or weft thread (5) is followed by at least one, in particular at least two, loop threads (9); A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

16. at least one of said anchor thread under-parts (17) comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of said anchor thread under-parts (17); and / or at least one of said loop-under-yarn portions (19) comprises at least 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% or 100% of said loop-under-yarn portions (19); A textile fabric (1) according to any one of the preceding claims.

17. A garment, in particular a pair of trousers, more in particular a pair of denim trousers, comprising a textile fabric (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 16, In particular, the front side (FS) is the side that is visible when the garment is worn, and / or the back side (BS) is the side that faces the skin of the wearer; clothing.

18. A method for producing a textile fabric (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 16 and / or for producing a garment according to claim 17.

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