Cosmetic use of an oily extract from the distillation residue of immortelle as a skin brightening agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oily extract from the distillation residue of immortel as a whitening agent for facial complexion. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oily extract of immortel pomace and hexylresorcinol in a physiologically acceptable medium, and the use of this cosmetic composition.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an oily extract of immortel distillation residue as a skin lightening agent. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oily extract of immortel distillation residue and hexylresorcinol in a physiologically acceptable medium, and to the use of this composition. [Background technology]

[0002] The mechanism of skin pigmentation is a complex process involving melanin production by melanocytes, specialized cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. Schematically, this mechanism consists of the following main steps: Tyrosine → Dopa → Dopaquinone → Dopachrome → Melanin This reaction sequence is catalyzed by the key enzyme involved, tyrosinase.

[0003] Skin color is determined primarily by the type and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes can be activated by internal or external stimuli to produce melanin in specialized lysosome-like organelles called melanosomes. After maturation, perinuclear melanosomes are transported along microtubules and actin cytoskeleton to the ends of melanocyte dendrites. Melanosomes containing melanin are then transferred to neighboring keratinocytes.

[0004] Any disturbance in this complex process can lead to skin pigmentation disorders. In particular, an increase in the number of active melanocytes and / or an increase in melanin production and / or an increase in the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes can lead to skin hyperpigmentation.

[0005] Thus, environmental, genetic and / or hormonal factors may regulate the amount, type and distribution of melanin in skin and / or hair, with significant cosmetic and psychological consequences. Thus, darker and / or more colored spots may appear on the skin, more specifically on the hands, of certain individuals in the sun. Another type of localized hyperpigmentation caused by hyperactivity of melanocytes is idiopathic melasma ("melasma of pregnancy" or melasma) that occurs during pregnancy or estroprogestogenic contraception. Conversely, hypopigmentation of the skin may be observed when scars are exposed to sunlight or in some types of albinism, such as vitiligo. In these cases, when the damaged skin cannot be repigmented, the remaining healthy areas of skin are depigmented to give the skin a uniform white hue.

[0006] To treat all these hyperpigmentations, there is a particular need for the use of harmless topical depigmenting substances with good efficacy. A substance is recognized as having bleaching or depigmenting properties if it acts directly on the activity of epidermal melanocytes, where melanogenesis occurs, and / or if it interferes with one of the steps of melanin biosynthesis, either by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis, in particular tyrosinase, or by inserting as a structural analogue of one of the compounds in the melanin synthesis chain, which can then interrupt the chain, thereby ensuring depigmentation and therefore skin whitening. In recent years, various cosmetic active agents, such as vitamin C and its derivatives, arbutin, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, n-butylresorcinol (or rucinol), hexylresorcinol, and even glutathione and its derivatives, have been used to treat these hyperpigmentation problems. These compounds have different modes of action, including the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the reduction of the amount of melanin formed, and even the stimulation of melanin elimination in keratinocytes. However, some of these compounds can cause side effects such as burning, erythema and dry skin.

[0007] Thus, there remains a need for new human skin bleaching agents that are as effective as those already known, but without their drawbacks, i.e., that are non-irritating, non-toxic and / or non-allergenic to the skin.

[0008] In this context, various immortelle extracts have already been proposed for use as bleaching agents, in particular those obtained by extraction of the aerial parts of Helichrysum gymnocephalum (DC) Humbert with a solvent such as ethanol. This extract is characterized by the presence of monoterpene derivatives of chalcones or dihydrochalcones, in particular gymnochalcones (FR2970416). Mention may also be made of WO2007 / 015232, which suggests the use of (undetermined) extracts of Helichrysum arenarium in the process of removing scars and skin pigmentation, and CN111973544, which discloses the depigmenting effect of an aqueous-glycolic extract of Helichrysum bracteatum. Bleaching properties are also mentioned by the essential oil of Helichrysum angustifolium (CN108670926). Moreover, it has also been suggested that a combination of several different immortel extracts has its anti-aging properties and ability to reduce age spots (FR3003167). Finally, patent application WO2019 / 086602 suggests that a subcritical water extract of the flower tops of Helichrysum italicum containing caffeoylquinic acid may have depigmenting properties and can be used as an anti-defective cosmetic active agent. The applicant has now demonstrated, very surprisingly, that another immortel extract (WO2019 / 180368), already known for its properties of stimulating keratinocyte differentiation and its ability to restore the skin barrier, shows a good depigmenting activity action even at low concentrations, while at the same time being well tolerated. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]

[0009] [Patent Document 1] FR2970416 [Patent Document 2] WO2007 / 015232 [Patent Document 3] CN111973544 [Patent Document 4] CN108670926 [Patent Document 5] FR3003167 [Patent Document 6] WO2019 / 086602 [Patent Document 7] WO2019 / 180368 [Patent Document 8] EP2152685 [Non-patent literature]

[0010] [Non-Patent Document 1] Funasaka AH et al., J. Lipid Res. 1999 Summary of the Invention [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] The subject of the present invention is precisely the cosmetic use of an oily extract of the immortel distillate of the species Helichrysum italicum, to be applied topically to the skin, as an agent for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the facial complexion and / or for evening out the skin color and / or for reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots.

[0012] Another subject of the invention is an agent for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the facial complexion and / or for evening out the skin color and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, which agent consists of an oily extract of immortal remains of the species Helichrysum italicum.

[0013] Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, from 0.01% to 1% by weight of the above-mentioned oily extract of immortel distillation residue, and from 0.001% to 5% by weight of hexylresorcinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the facial complexion and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, which comprises topically applying this composition to the skin.

[0015] The subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the facial complexion and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, comprising topically applying to the skin a composition as defined above. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0016] [Figure 1] 1 is a graph showing the effect of an extract according to the invention in inhibiting melanin production by mouse B16 melanocytes, in comparison with two positive controls. [Diagram 2] FIG. 1 is a graph showing the effect of an oily extract of Helichrysum italicum in inhibiting melanin production by mouse B16 melanocytes compared to two positive controls. [Diagram 3] FIG. 1 is a graph showing the effect of a combination of an extract according to the invention with hexylresorcinol, compared with each of these two active agents and with two positive controls, on the inhibition of melanin production by mouse B16 melanocytes. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0017] The invention uses an oily extract of the distillation residue of immortel of the species Helichrysum italicum, preferentially of Corsican origin.

[0018] The term "stillage residue" means the solid residue remaining after the step of hydrodistillation or steam distillation of any part of the immortelle plant and separation of the essential oil and the hydrosol produced. The immortelle stillage used according to the invention is thus obtained according to a process comprising a step of hydrodistillation or steam distillation of all or part of the plant, preferably the aerial parts of the plant, in particular the flowers or flower tops, followed by a step of recovery of the distillation or steam distillation residue.

[0019] The oily extract from the distillation residue can then be obtained via any method of extracting oil from the distillation residue, more specifically by extracting the distillation residue using a supercritical fluid such as, but not limited to, carbon dioxide, nitric oxide, dimethyl ether, propane, ethylene or methanol. Carbon dioxide in the supercritical state may therefore be used. The skilled person knows how to adjust the extraction parameters, in particular the temperature, pressure and liquid flow rate, depending on the desired extraction rate and yield. For example, extraction using supercritical CO2 can be carried out at a pressure of 250-300 bar and at a temperature of 40-80°C, preferably 50-70°C. After extraction, the supercritical fluid is returned to the gaseous state by decompression and is generally recycled. The plant extract thus obtained is then advantageously subjected to a molecular distillation step, for example at a temperature of 180-250°C, preferably 200-220°C, thus concentrating the unsaponifiables present in the extract. Prior to this molecular distillation step, the plant extract may optionally be diluted in an oily solvent based on vegetable oil, such as sunflower oil. This oily solvent is removed during the molecular distillation process.

[0020] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily extract of immortelle stillage used according to the invention is obtained according to a method comprising a step of extracting the stillage with a supercritical fluid, preferably carbon dioxide in the supercritical state, and an optional subsequent molecular distillation step.

[0021] In this way, a distillate is obtained which contains in particular 30% to 50% by weight, more particularly 35% to 45% by weight, of unsaponifiable matter and 1% to 10% by weight, more particularly 3% to 7% by weight of sterols, essentially beta-sitosterol.

[0022] The extract obtained using the distillate obtained from the supercritical fluid or molecular distillation process may optionally be diluted in an oily solvent to a concentration of 1% to 10% by weight, for example in particular 3% to 5% by weight, to facilitate handling. Any oily solvent suitable for cosmetic use may be used for this purpose, in particular fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride. The applicant has characterized the oily extract of immortel distillation residue by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. It has thus been determined and demonstrated by gas chromatography that the oily extract of immortel distillation residue contains less than 10% of a volatile fraction.

[0023] It has also been shown that the oily extract of immortel distillation residue used according to the invention differs from the extract obtained by supercritical CO2 of immortel flower tops in terms of composition in that it is substantially free (if present, only in small amounts, i.e. less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight) of palmitoleic acid, linalool, nerol, 2-decenal, 2-tridecanone, heptadecane, 8-heptadecene, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, hexadecenol, lauric acid, pentadecanoic acid, decanoic acid and isostearic acid. More generally, this extract does not contain saturated fatty acids containing 11 or more carbon atoms. Conversely, the oily extract of immortel distillation residue used according to the invention contains constituents that were not identified in the extract obtained by supercritical CO2 of immortel flower tops, namely 2(Z)-decenoic acid and 4(Z)-decenoic acid.

[0024] In addition, compared to immortelle essential oil, the oily extract of immortelle distillate used according to the invention contains sterols, essentially beta-sitosterol, linear carboxylic acids, C7-C 10 Linear saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids (especially heptanoic, octenoic and decenoic acids), benzoic acid, and C8-C 18 It contains the ethyl esters of linear saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in particular caprylic acid, capric acid and linoleic acid.

[0025] It also differs from the immortelle oil extract obtained by extraction using sunflower oil in that it does not contain any limonene and contains fatty acids (heptanoic acid, 2-octenoic acid, 4-octenoic acid, nonanoic acid, 2-decenoic acid, 4-decenoic acid, linoleic acid) and / or their ethyl esters, as well as benzoic acid, that are not present in the immortelle oil extract obtained by extraction using sunflower oil.

[0026] Finally, the oily extract of immortel stillage used according to the invention is low in polyphenols and in particular free of dicaffeoylquinic acids and chalcones.

[0027] The oily extract of immortelle distillation residue advantageously represents between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0028] The oily extract of immortelle distillation residue according to the invention is contained in a cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that does not cause stinging or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. This medium preferably contains an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase. Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type, or is an anhydrous oily composition. The term "anhydrous composition" refers to a composition that contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or even does not contain any water at all.

[0029] When present, the aqueous phase contains water and, optionally, at least one component selected from polyols and aqueous gelling agents. Water advantageously represents from 40% to 80% by weight, for example from 50% to 70% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol may be chosen in particular from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof, and may represent from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The term "aqueous gelling agent" refers to a polymeric compound that can be hydrated to immobilize water molecules, thereby increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such gelling agents can be selected from polysaccharides, such as cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenans, agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar gum or locust bean gum; synthetic polymers, and in particular sodium acrylate homopolymers, which may be optionally crosslinked, and also acrylic copolymers, in particular sodium acrylate and / or alkyl (meth)acrylate and / or hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate and / or (polyethoxy)alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers, which may optionally have at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and these copolymers may be optionally crosslinked; and mixtures thereof.

[0031] On the other hand, if a fatty phase is present, it may contain one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes such as isododecane, and linear C 10 ~C 13 Among the non-volatile oils that may be mentioned in particular are: - esters of acids and monohydric alcohols selected from mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C2-C10 (preferably C6-C10) acids and saturated linear C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14) monohydric alcohols, mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 (preferably C3-C10) monohydric alcohols, mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C5-C20 monohydric alcohols, and mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and linear C2-C4 monohydric alcohols; - triglycerides of C6 to C12 fatty acids, such as caprylic and capric triglycerides and triheptanoin; - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as oleic acid and linoleic acid); - Branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol); - Hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), especially plant squalane extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualane (C15); dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate; dialkyl ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether; - A mixture of these. Also included are vegetable oils containing one or more of the above components. As esters of acids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made in particular of monoesters, such as cocoyl caprate / caprylate mixtures, ethyl macadamiate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate and mixtures thereof. Other esters which may be used include diesters of acids and monohydric alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate. Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, sour soybean oil, kukui oil, passion flower oil, rose hip oil, echium oil, camelina oil and camellia oil, among others.

[0032] The fatty phase may also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent. The term "fatty phase structuring agent" means a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, and also mixtures thereof.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises plant extracts, in particular licorice extract; vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl ether, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; arbutin; ferulic acid; kojic acid; resorcinol and its derivatives, such as hexylresorcinol and in particular 4-(1-phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol, sold in particular under the name Symwhite 377® by the company Symrise; salicylic acid, its salts and its esters; extracts of meadowsweet and Iris florentina; dipotassium glycyrrhizinate; tranexamic acid; ellagic acid; nicotinic acid derivatives, such as niacinamide; extracts of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) sold by the company Gattefosse; peony (Paeonia Root) sold under the name Botanpi® Liquid by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; The composition also contains at least one depigmenting active other than an oily extract of immortel distillation residue, which may be chosen in particular from an extract of Scutellaria suffruticosa; the lipoamino acids (phenylalanine modified with undecylenic acid) sold under the name Sepiwhite® by the company SEPPIC; Helichrysum italicum essential oil; and mixtures thereof.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, 0.01% to 1% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 1% by mass, more preferentially 0.05% to 0.3% by mass of the oily extract of immortel distillation residue as described above, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and 0.001% to 5% by mass of hexylresorcinol.

[0035] Hexylresorcinol or 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol refers to a compound having the following chemical structure:

[0036] [ka]

[0037] Hexylresorcinol is known for its depigmenting and skin-protecting properties. Preferably, the hexylresorcinol introduced into the cosmetic composition of the present invention is purified and almost free of resorcinol (the latter compound is unstable and has an irritating effect on the skin). For this purpose, it is possible to use the product obtained by the method described in the patent EP2152685 of Sytheon, or to directly use the commercial product Synovea® HR, which is known to inhibit melanogenesis in vitro (Funasaka AH et al., J. Lipid Res. 1999) and to have bleaching activity on the skin of human volunteers (EP2152685), and contains more than 99.5% hexylresorcinol.

[0038] As will become apparent from the following examples, the oily extract of immortel distillation residue according to the present invention has been shown to enhance the depigmenting effect of hexylresorcinol.

[0039] Alternatively or additionally, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one active agent selected from free radical scavengers, moisturizing agents, agents that stimulate the differentiation and / or proliferation of keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts; agents that stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and / or collagen and / or dermal anchoring fibers and / or elastic fibers; agents that prevent the degradation of collagen and / or glycosaminoglycans and / or dermal anchoring fibers and / or elastic fibers; anti-glycation agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Examples of such anti-ageing active agents include, in particular: ascorbic acid and its salts, ethers and esters, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; adenosine; ribose; honey extracts; proteins and glycoproteins, in particular extracted from sweet almonds; hydrolyzed plant proteins, in particular from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupin; polypeptides and pseudodipeptides, such as carcinine hydrochloride, in particular palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38, sold respectively under the names Matrixyl 3000 and Matrixyl Synthe'6 by the company Sederma, and also the derivatives of the compounds of the invention such as Lucas palmitoyl tripeptide-8 sold under the name Nutrazen® by Meyer, pentapeptide-18 sold under the name Leuphasyl® Solution by Lipotec, sh-decapeptide-9 sold under the name Neoendorphin® by Sandream and palmitoyl hexapeptide-52 sold under the name X50 Myocept® Powder by Infinitec; silanes such as methylsilanol mannuronate; arabinoxylans, in particular those extracted from rye flour, and galactoarabinans, in particular from larch; hyaluronic acid and its salts; polyphenols, in particular those extracted from mimosa; alpha-hydroxy acids, including those extracted from lemons and those extracted from hibiscus, sold under the name Hibiscus acids® by Naturex;Water hyacinth, wild tricolor violet, horsetail, mafane (Acmella oleracea), donkey thistle (Onopordum acanthium), yarrow (Achillea millefolium, in particular that contained in the product Neurobiox® manufactured by BASF), embelia (Embelia concinna, sold by SEPPIC), prickly pear (Opunitia ficus indica, in particular that sold under the name AquaCacteen® by Mibelle AG Biochemistry), sage (Salvia officinalis, in particular that sold by Provital Group), Taiwan ginseng (Vitex negundo) (in particular Laboratoires Expanscience (sold under the name Neurovity®), extracts of plants such as chestnut, papaya, argan, oat, sunflower, daisy, peony or dill (generally aqueous); aqueous seaweed extracts, in particular coralline algae, sclerotinia, Ungaria pinnatifada, Alaria esculenta or Nannochloropsis oculata; essential oils, in particular myrtle; zinc and / or copper gluconate; and mixtures thereof.

[0041] The composition according to the invention may also contain various constituents which may be dispersed in the fatty and / or aqueous phase, making them suitable for topical application to the skin.

[0042] It may therefore contain at least one generally non-ionic oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, such as polyoxyethylene esters, optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, optionally polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of glycerol, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, such as alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifier may represent from 2% to 10%, preferably from 4% to 6%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0043] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more pulverulent fillers, advantageously in the form of porous or hollow, preferably porous, microparticles. These microparticles are as a rule substantially spherical. These fillers are in particular: organic fillers such as powders of polysaccharides, in particular natural starch, modified starch or cellulose, powders of acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins, powders of dried algae such as Corallina officinalis, - inorganic fillers such as silica, clay, perlite and talc, - and mixtures thereof You can choose from. Silica is preferred for use as the inorganic filler. These fillers may comprise from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives chosen from organic and / or inorganic photoprotective agents, in particular active in blue light and / or UVA and / or UVB; polysaccharide-based film-forming polymers capable of forming an anti-pollution protective film, such as the products sold under the trade names Pollustop® and Solashield® by the company Solabia; fragrances; antioxidants; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; colorants; and mixtures thereof.

[0045] This composition may be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin, in particular in the form of a milk, cream, fluid, lotion, gel, paste, oil or film, and is generally a leave-on composition, in particular a skin care composition.

[0046] As a variant, the composition according to the invention may be a rinse-off composition used for skin care, in particular for the face and possibly the body, in which case it may be used, for example, as a mask or an exfoliating paste.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to human skin with uneven skin color caused by environmental factors, in particular age spots, melasma, and / or pigmentation defects caused by scars or acne scars.It is generally applied to at least one area of ​​the body of concern, more particularly to the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms, hands and / or legs, with the aim of brightening these areas and / or uniforming the skin color.The composition can be applied once or several times a day, for example in the morning and / or in the evening.

[0048] In either case, the oily extract of immortel distillation residue is applied to the skin in an amount sufficient to inhibit melanin formation, for example, 0.5 to 5 mg / cm containing 0.01% to 1% by weight of the oily extract of immortel distillation residue according to the present invention. 2 may be applied daily to the area of ​​skin of concern. EXAMPLES

[0049] The present invention will be more clearly understood in light of the following examples, which are set forth purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

[0050] Example 1 Preparation and characterization of extracts - comparison with flower top oil extracts 1.1- Preparation of extracts The essential oil and hydrosol were produced by steam distillation of the flower tops of Helichrysum italicum, followed by isolation of the steam distillation residue and extraction using supercritical CO2 at a temperature of 60 °C and a pressure of 285 bar. The unsaponifiables thus obtained were diluted in sunflower oil and then subjected to a step of molecular distillation at 200 °C, and the distillate obtained was standardized by dilution to 3-5% by weight in caprylic / capric triglyceride. The polyphenol composition of this extract was compared with that of the oily extract of Helichrysum italicum. The oily extract of Helichrysum italicum was obtained as follows: 9% by weight of the dried and ground plant powder (flower tops) was mixed with 91% ultrasonically deodorized sunflower oil in a vessel cooled to 10°C. Extraction was carried out for 30 minutes under ultrasound and stirring at 500 rpm. Extraction was continued by microwave under a nitrogen flow of 0.4 L / min. The solid and liquid oily phases obtained were separated by decantation, then the oily phase was filtered and stored under an inert atmosphere and protected from light.

[0051] 1.2-Characterization of polyphenols material - Ultra-high performance liquid chromatograph (Agilent Technologies, USA) - 1290 Series Autoinjector - 1260 Series Diode Array Detector (DAD) Mass spectrometer: Esquire 6000 equipped with electrospray ionization (ESI) source (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen) Sample preparation The extract according to the invention was prepared by dissolving 2 g of the distillation residue extract in 1 mL of hexane. This oily solution was extracted three times with 2 mL of a MeOH / H2O mixture (60 / 40). The MeOH / H2O phases were then pooled and diluted 1 / 2 in a MeOH / H2O mixture (60 / 40). Analysis method The solution obtained after dilution / extraction was filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 μm) and then injected (1 μL) onto an Agilent C18 column (2.1 mm×100 mm; 1.8 μm) at a temperature maintained at 25° C. and a flow rate of 0.4 mL / min. The solvents used were A=HO / HCOOH (0.1%) and B=ACN / HCOOH (0.1%). The polyphenol elution gradient was as follows:

[0052] [Table 1]

[0053] Leaving the diode array detector, the eluate was injected into a mass spectrometer. Analyses were performed in negative and positive modes. LC-MS spectra were acquired over the entire mass range (m / z) from 100 to 1400. All data were then collected and processed using Hystar version 3.0 software.

[0054] result

[0055] [Table 2]

[0056] 1.3-Characterization of chalcone The presence of four chalcones (linderatin, linderachalcone, methyllinderatin, and gymnochalcone) in the above distillation residue extract was 1 H / 13 The properties were evaluated using 2D NMR with C HSQC spectrum. Materials and Methods: An aliquot of the distillation residue extract (15 mg) was dissolved in 700 μL of DMSO-d6 for analysis by 2D NMR at 298 Kelvin. 2D NMR analysis was performed using a Bruker Avance AVIII-600 spectrometer equipped with a Cryoprobe® NMR probe. The obtained NMR values ​​were compared to those calculated using ACD Labs software. Results: No chalcone was detected in the samples.

[0057] 1.4- Characterization of other components In parallel, the presence of various organic compounds was evaluated in the two extracts mentioned above, as well as in an extract obtained similarly to the extract according to the invention, but using a process carried out on immortelle flower tops and not on their steam stillage residue. material - Trace GC Ultra gas chromatograph (ThermoElectron SAS) - Mass spectrometer: El LT Large T ISQ Mass Spectrometer (ThermoElectron SAS) used in El mode Sample preparation Samples were prepared by diluting 0.3 g of the extract in 6 mL of isooctane. 0.6 mL of methanolic potassium hydroxide was added and the mixture was vortexed for 30 seconds. 1 g of NaHSO4 was added and the mixture was vortexed for 30 seconds. The mixture was then separated by settling. The top portion of the supernatant was collected for chromatographic analysis. Analysis method The samples were analyzed under the following conditions: TR WAX 60m x 0.25μm x 0.25mm Polar Chromatography Column H2 flow rate: 1mL / min Oven program: 50°C (2 min) then 10°C / min up to 250°C (18 min) Split ratio: 100 Injection volume: 1μL Injection temperature: 250℃ Mass range: 50-650 amu result It has been particularly observed that the extract of immortel stillage according to the invention differs from the oily extract of the flower tops in that it does not contain limonene, it contains significantly more β-eudesmol, which is not present in the oily extract of immortel flower tops, and it contains fatty acids (heptanoic acid, 2-octenoic acid, 4-octenoic acid, nonanoic acid, 2-decenoic acid, 4-decenoic acid and linoleic acid) and / or their ethyl esters and benzoic acid. In addition, the distillation residue extract according to the invention is particularly different from the supercritical CO2 extract of flower tops in that it does not contain saturated fatty acids containing 11 or more carbon atoms, and contains very few, if any, terpenoids (especially monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes), in particular does not contain nerol and linalool, contains very few, if any, heavy alkanes (containing 17 or more carbon atoms), and does not contain palmitoleic acid, isobutyric acid and isovaleric acid, 2-decenal and hexadecenol. Moreover, the distillation residue extract according to the invention contains unique molecules not present in the supercritical CO2 extract of flower tops, namely (2)-(Z)-decenoic acid and 4-(Z)-decenoic acid.

[0058] Example 2 Effect of the immortelle distillation residue extract according to the present invention on melanin formation The immortelle stillage extract and the flower top oil extract described in Example 1 were tested to evaluate their ability to inhibit melanin production.

[0059] 2.1-Materials & Methods Melanocytes (mouse strain B16) were seeded in 96-well plates at 2000 cells per well in phenol red-free DMEM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum, 2 mM glutamine, 1 mM sodium pyruvate and 100 μg / ml Normocin. The next day, cells were treated with 0.1 μM NDP-MSH to induce pigmentation. Under the test conditions, 3 mM kojic acid and 0.5% vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside) were used as positive controls for inhibition of pigmentation in the presence of NDP-MSH, and the extracts evaluated were tested at several concentrations. All conditions were tested in triplicate. Cells were incubated in the presence of the extracts and positive controls for 72 hours at 37° C. and 5% CO2. Cell viability was then assessed using the XTT method and melanin content was analyzed only for non-cytotoxic conditions (conditions in which the viability was greater than 85% of that of the untreated control). For the melanin assay, the medium in each well was aspirated and the cells were lysed by adding 50 μl of 1 M NaOH to the cell lawn. The plate was shaken at room temperature for 30 min, then the lysate was transferred to a glass flask and incubated at 95° C. overnight. After incubation, the lysate was centrifuged at 2000 rpm to remove cell debris. The absorbance of the supernatant was read at 405 nm, which reflects the amount of melanin in each well, and the average of three replicates was determined for each condition. A well of cells not treated with NDP-MSH was used as a control, and its OD value was subtracted from the total OD value of the other wells. The melanin inhibition percentage was then calculated according to the following formula: 100-((amount of melanin in test condition / amount of melanin in untreated control) x 100) The significance of the results was evaluated using One-way ANOVA test (for the stillage extract and flower top oil extract) or Student's t-test (for kojic acid and vitamin C).

[0060] 2.2-Results As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the study was validated by demonstrating the efficacy of kojic acid and vitamin C (***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001). Figure 1 also shows that the immortel stillage extract according to the invention significantly inhibits melanocyte pigmentation in a dose-dependent manner at concentrations of 0.05% and above (****p<0.0001 at 0.1%; *p<0.05 at 0.05%). At a concentration of 0.1%, the stillage extract according to the invention has a much higher potency than the highest concentrations of vitamin C, which constitutes a bleaching activator traditionally used in cosmetics. Its potency is close to that of kojic acid, a benchmark depigmenting agent, but known to entail serious risks of allergies and irritation. This example therefore demonstrates that the immortelle distillate extract according to the invention constitutes an optimal cosmetic active agent for skin lightening.

[0061] In comparison, FIG. 2 shows that the effect of the oily extract of immortelle flower tops on pigmentation was not significantly different from the control.

[0062] Example 3 Effect of the combination of hexylresorcinol and the immortel distillate extract according to the present invention on melanin formation The test described in Example 2 was repeated, adding hexylresorcinol to the immortel stillage extract according to the invention. Preliminary cytotoxicity studies defined the maximum non-cytotoxic doses that could be applied to the cells, namely 10 μg / mL for hexylresorcinol and 1% for the immortel stillage extract according to the invention. These two active agents were tested at concentrations of 0.035% for the immortel stillage extract and 5 μg / mL for hexylresorcinol. The results were compared with the effects obtained with the extract according to the invention alone and with hexylresorcinol alone, used at the same doses. As shown in FIG. 3, the study is validated by demonstrating the efficacy of kojic acid and vitamin C (****p<0.0001) and establishes the depigmenting efficacy of hexylresorcinol. In addition, the tested combination inhibits pigmentation more potently than either of the two active agents used alone, an effect that is significantly different not only from the untreated control, but also from each active agent used alone at the same concentration (One-way ANOVA test, $$ p<0.01 vs. distillation residue extract; Δ p<0.05 vs. hexylresorcinol). This study therefore demonstrates that the effect of hexylresorcinol on melanogenesis is significantly enhanced by the addition of the extract according to the invention, which was not expected.

[0063] Example 4 Cosmetic Composition The following compositions are prepared in a manner conventional to those skilled in the art by mixing the following components in the weight proportions indicated:

[0064] Hand cream Oil 10~15% Polyol 20% Shea butter 5% Non-ionic surfactant 3-5% Co-emulsifier 1.5~2% Powder filler 2~5% Water-based gelling agent 1-2% Hexylresorcinol 0.5% Extract according to the invention 0.1% Immortelle essential oil 0.001% Adenosine 0.04% Antioxidants: sufficient amount Enough amount of fragrance Sufficient amount of water 100%

[0065] Face and body oils oil Fatty acid ester 50~60% Vegetable oil 15~20% Alkane 10-15% Branched fatty alcohol 10-20% Extract according to the invention 0.05% Antioxidants: sufficient amount Enough amount of fragrance

Claims

1. 1. Cosmetic use of an oily extract of immortel distillation residue of the species Helichrysum italicum applied topically to the skin as an agent for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the complexion of the face and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots.

2. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily extract of the immortelle stillage contains less than 10% of a volatile fraction as determined by gas chromatography.

3. The oily extract of immortel distillation residue is a linear, saturated or unsaturated C ester containing 2-(Z)-decenoic acid and 4-(Z)-decenoic acid. 7 ~C 10 Carboxylic acids and linear saturated or unsaturated C 8 ~C 18 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains ethyl esters of fatty acids.

4. Linear saturated or unsaturated C 7 ~C 10 The carboxylic acids include heptanoic acid, octenoic acid and decenoic acid, and are linear, saturated or unsaturated C 8 ~C 18 4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the ethyl esters of fatty acids include ethyl caprylate, ethyl caprate and ethyl linoleate.

5. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle stillage contains sterols.

6. 6. Use according to claim 5, characterised in that the sterol consists of beta-sitosterol.

7. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the immortel of the species Helichrysum italicum is of Corsican origin.

8. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily extract of immortel stillage is obtained according to a method comprising a step of extracting the immortel stillage with a supercritical fluid (e.g. carbon dioxide in the supercritical state), optionally followed by molecular distillation.

9. 9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle stillage obtained by extraction and optional molecular distillation is diluted in an oily solvent, for example caprylic / capric triglyceride.

10. 9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the immortel stillage is obtained according to a process comprising a step of hydrodistillation or steam distillation of all or part of the plant (for example the aerial parts of the plant, its flowers or flower tops) followed by a recovery step of the distillation or steam distillation residue.

11. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle distillate is applied to the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms, hands and / or feet.

12. 12. The use according to claim 11, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle distillate is applied to the skin in an amount sufficient to inhibit melanogenesis.

13. 12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the oily extract of immortelle distillation residue is applied to human skin having inhomogeneities in skin colour caused by environmental factors, such as age spots, melasma and / or pigmentation defects due to scars or acne scars.

14. In a physiologically acceptable medium, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.01% to 1% by weight of an oily extract of immortel stillage as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10; 0.001% to 5% by weight of hexylresorcinol; A cosmetic composition comprising:

15. 15. Cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition of claim 14 for bleaching the skin and / or lightening the facial complexion, and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, comprising topically applying the cosmetic composition to the skin.

16. 1. An agent for bleaching the skin and / or brightening the complexion of the face and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or for reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, comprising an oily extract of immortel distillation residue of the species Helichrysum italicum.

17. 15. A cosmetic method for whitening the skin and / or brightening the facial complexion and / or for evening out the skin tone and / or reducing or preventing the appearance of age spots, comprising topically applying to the skin a composition according to claim 14.

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