Composition suitable for keratin fiber
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-29
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for straightening keratin fibers, such as hair, either provide short-lasting results with heated irons or cause damage and odor with chemical treatments, and there is a need for a long-lasting, damage-free solution.
A composition containing glyoxylic acid or its derivatives, ketoic acid or its salts, and fatty amines, without ammonia or thiols, is applied to keratin fibers, followed by heating to maintain the desired shape, which can be straightened or curled, and is rinsed and dried.
The composition provides long-lasting shaping effects on keratin fibers, reducing damage and odor, while maintaining the desired hairstyle even after washing, without using reducing or oxidizing agents.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates primarily to compositions suitable for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair. [Background technology]
[0002] Straightening keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is popular for making unruly keratinous fibers easier to manage, reducing the volume of the keratinous fibers, and making them look more desirable.Straightening methods using such heated irons are convenient for instant styling, but the style only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next hair wash.Many consumers need a long-lasting straightening method.
[0003] On the other hand, the conventional permanent hair straightening method using reducing and alkaline agents and oxidizing agents and heating can provide keratin fibers with a long-lasting style, but has several drawbacks such as long processing time, damage to keratin fibers and bad odor.
[0004] WO2014 / 131469 discloses a method for straightening keratinous fibers by heating with an iron without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratinous fibers.
[0005] US-A-2023 / 742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition comprising 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] WO2014 / 131469 [Patent Document 2] US-A-2023 / 742 [Patent Document 3] European Patent Application No. 0354835 [Patent Document 4] European Patent Application No. 0368763 [Patent Document 5] European Patent Application No. 0432000 [Patent Document 6] European Patent Application No. 0514282 [Patent Document 7] French Patent Application No. 2679448 [Non-patent literature]
[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-Patent Document 3] "Handbook of Surfactants", by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] There remains a need for improved reshaping of keratinous fibers based on treating the fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.
[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition useful for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, which is capable of providing a longer lasting reshaping effect to the keratinous fibers, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one fatty amine This can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0011] The amount of (a) compound in the composition according to the invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0012] The (b) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the invention may be up to 10% by weight, preferably up to 8% by weight, more preferably up to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0014] (c) The fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0015] The amount of (c) fatty amine in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.
[0017] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.
[0018] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.
[0019] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less.
[0020] The composition according to the invention may be free of ammonia or thiol compounds or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compounds relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The composition according to the invention may not contain any reducing or oxidizing agent or may contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of reducing or oxidizing agent relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0022] The compositions according to the invention may also be for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair.
[0023] The present invention also relates to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition according to the present invention onto keratinous fibres; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) reshaping, preferably straightening, the keratin fibers at a temperature of preferably more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C, even more preferably more than 150°C; The present invention also relates to a method, comprising:
[0024] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: At least one selected from the group consisting of irons, curlers, combs, dryers, and combinations thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb, or heated dryer, capable of subjecting keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C.; The present invention also relates to a kit comprising a composition according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0025] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition useful for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, based on treating the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which is capable of providing a longer-lasting reshaping effect on the keratinous fibers.
[0026] The present invention therefore primarily relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one fatty amine The present invention relates to a composition comprising:
[0027] The present invention is based on treating keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, thereby enabling improved reshaping of keratinous fibers, such as hair, by providing a longer lasting reshaping effect.
[0028] Reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, as used herein includes straightening or curling keratinous fibers.
[0029] The present invention can provide a longer-lasting reshaping effect on keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can extend or prolong the reshaping effect on keratinous fibers provided by using a composition containing only glyoxylic acid or its derivatives. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight or curled shape of keratinous fibers, or prevent or reduce the loss of the straight or curled shape of keratinous fibers over time.
[0030] For example, when the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can better prevent the keratin fibers from returning to their original wavy shape after straightening the keratin fibers, especially after washing.
[0031] The present invention can also provide a sufficiently immediate reshaping effect to keratinous fibers. For example, keratinous fibers treated according to the present invention to straighten them can have less volume or frizz, due to the reduced curl of the keratinous fibers. The reshaping effect provided by the present invention can last for a long time, for example, even after washing the keratinous fibers. Thus, the present invention can also provide a shape of keratinous fibers that is more resistant to washing.
[0032] The present invention can result in less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional permanent reshaping methods, since it does not require the use of any reducing / oxidizing agents.Therefore, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easily combed.Therefore, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easily handled.In addition, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional permanent reshaping methods.
[0033] In addition, the present invention can use no or very little ammonia or thiol compounds, and therefore can reduce odor during use of the present invention compared to conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or thiol compounds.The present invention also allows good ease of use, for example, short processing time.
[0034] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0035] [Composition] The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one fatty amine Includes.
[0036] The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for reshaping keratinous fibers, even more preferably a cosmetic composition for reshaping keratinous fibers in one step, with the keratinous fibers being particularly preferably hair.
[0037] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof.
[0038] A single type of (a) compound may be used, but two or more different types of (a) compounds may also be used in combination.
[0039] The (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (a) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.
[0040] Glyoxylic acid solvates can include, for example, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0041] Glyoxylates can include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid, such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0042] Examples of the glyoxylic acid ester include alkyl glyoxylates such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0043] Glyoxylic acid amides include, for example, N-glyoxyloyl carbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acid.
[0044] It is preferred to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).
[0045] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] The amount of (a) compound in the composition according to the invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Therefore, the amount of the (a) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% by mass to less than 15% by mass, preferably from 0.5% by mass to less than 14% by mass, and more preferably from 1% by mass to less than 13% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0048] In one embodiment, the amount of (a) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] Therefore, in this embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% by mass to 12% by mass, preferably from 0.5% by mass to 11% by mass, and more preferably from 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0050] (Keto acid) The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one compound selected from (b) keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the (a) compound. Two or more (b) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.
[0051] The keto acid may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] The α-keto acid may be a compound represented by the general formula (I): R 1 -C(=O)-COOH (I) (In the formula, R 1 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).
[0053] An example of an α-keto acid is pyruvic acid.
[0054] The β-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (II): R 2 -C(=O)-R 3 -COOH (II) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom, R 3 represents a methylene group optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).
[0055] An example of a β-keto acid is acetoacetic acid.
[0056] The γ-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (III): R 2 -C(=O)-R 4 -COOH (III) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom, R 4 represents an ethylene group optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).
[0057] An example of a γ-keto acid is levulinic acid.
[0058] The salt of the keto acid may be an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of the keto acid, such as sodium or potassium keto acid salts, and magnesium or calcium keto acid salts.
[0059] As the (b) compound, it is preferred to use a γ-keto acid, more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof, such as sodium levulinate.
[0060] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0061] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the invention may be up to 10% by weight, preferably up to 8% by weight, more preferably up to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Therefore, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0063] In one embodiment, the amount of (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] Therefore, in this embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 4% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0065] In another embodiment, the (b) compound may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount less than the (a) compound. For example, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) compound to the amount of the (b) compound contained in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.
[0066] (fatty amines) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.
[0067] The term "fatty amine" is understood herein to mean a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or a salt thereof. Fatty amines generally contain at least one C6-C 30 It comprises a hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amine according to the present invention is not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amine according to the present invention is not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C6-C 30 It contains at least one fatty amine that contains a hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0069] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine chosen from tertiary fatty amines.
[0070] More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more tertiary fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines.
[0071] The (c) fatty amines that may be used in the context of the present invention may be selected from fatty amines having the following formula (IV): RN(R')2(IV) (In the formula: R is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C6-C 30 , preferably C8 to C 24 Alkyl groups, preferably linear or branched C6-C 30 , and even better C8~C 24 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C6-C 30 , preferably C8 to C 24 represents an alkenyl group, R' may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group containing up to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group).
[0072] The (c) fatty amine corresponding to formula (IV) above may be selected from, for example, dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] The (c) fatty amines that may be used in the context of the present invention may also be selected from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines having the following formula (V): R-CO-N(H)-R''-N(R')2(V) (In the formula: R is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted C5-C 29 , preferably C7 to C 23 Alkyl groups, preferably linear or branched C5-C 29 , and even better C5~C 23 Alkyl group, or linear or branched C5-C 29 , preferably C7 to C 23 represents an alkenyl group, R″, which may be the same or different, represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing up to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; R' may be the same or different and represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group containing up to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group).
[0074] The (c) fatty amine corresponding to formula (V) above may be selected from, for example, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold under the name Lexamine S13 by Inolex Chemical Company, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, mincamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, talamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, (c) the fatty amine may be selected from fatty amidoamines, preferentially from fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.
[0076] (c) The fatty amine is preferably selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine may be represented by the following formula (VI):
[0078] [ka]
[0079] (In the formula, R is the C of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 17 (Indicates an alkyl group.)
[0080] Therefore, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amine selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The amount of (c) fatty amine in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0082] The amount of (c) fatty amine in the composition according to the present invention may be not more than 15% by weight, preferably not more than 10% by weight, more preferably not more than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] Therefore, the amount of (c) fatty amine in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0084] (water) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) water.
[0085] Therefore, when a composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water, the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.
[0086] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass or more, and more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0087] On the other hand, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by mass or less, preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 85% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0088] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0089] (oil) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0090] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid, paste or solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). (e) As the oil, any oil commonly used in cosmetics can be used, either alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0091] (e) The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0092] (e) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0093] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0095] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0096] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0097] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0098] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0099] Mention may in particular be made of the following: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0100] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" is recalled to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0101] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0102] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. These compounds, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0103] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0105] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0106] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0107] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like. Examples of the glyceryl stearate include glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), glyceryl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0109] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.
[0111] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0112] Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll, Academic Press (1968). They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0113] If volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type, such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane of the formula: for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide.
[0114] [ka]
[0115] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds may also be included, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2 Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes with a viscosity of less than 1000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445, Annex C.
[0116] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used, these being more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0117] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. 60000mm 2 DC200 with a viscosity of 1.0 oz (200 g) / s; - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0118] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0119] Among the silicones containing aryl groups there are the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially the polydiphenylsiloxanes and the polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned are the products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia, - Dow Corning oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0120] The organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from Union Carbide.
[0121] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0122] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0123] The (e) oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils, and even more preferably from monoester oils.
[0124] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0125] On the other hand, the amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0126] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1 mass % to 40 mass %, preferably from 3 mass % to 30 mass %, and more preferably from 5 mass % to 20 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0127] (Fatty alcohol) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0128] The term "fatty" as used herein refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0129] (f) The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, e.g., from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 24 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 24 alkenyl groups, R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0130] Non-limiting examples of (f) fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
[0133] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0134] (f) The fatty alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol.
[0135] The amount of (f) aliphatic alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0136] On the other hand, the amount of (f) aliphatic alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0137] The amount of (f) aliphatic alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0138] (Nonionic surfactant) The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may also be used in combination.
[0139] Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds in themselves or in themselves (see, for example, in this respect, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, the nonionic surfactants can be chosen, for example, from alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, which compounds can be ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolized and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Mention can also be made of maltose derivatives. Also included, but not limited to, are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, for example containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides, for example containing 1.5 to 5, for example 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C6 to C7 24 ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; N-(C6-C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-(C 10 ~C 14 ) amine oxides such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0140] The non-ionic surfactant may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants, the oxyalkylene units being more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0141] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned are: Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 Amides, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 Esters of acids with monoalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycols; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and Especially condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, either alone or in mixtures.
[0142] The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.
[0143] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of ethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), monooxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0144] An example of a monooxyalkylenated fatty ester that may be mentioned is glycol distearate.
[0145] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30Examples of the ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more especially those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are ceteareth-2 to ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are steareth-2 to steareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are isosteareth-2 to isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0147] Polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30 Examples of ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol include the ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names oleth-2 to oleth-20), and mixtures thereof.
[0148] (g) The nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.
[0149] The amount of the (g) nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0150] On the other hand, the amount of (g) nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0151] The amount of the (g) nonionic surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0152] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less, measured at 25°C.
[0153] The pH of the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 3, measured at 25°C.
[0154] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6, more preferably from 3 to 5, measured at 25°C.
[0155] (Alkaline agent) The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0156] The alkaline agent is different from (c) a fatty amine.
[0157] When the (a) compound or the (b) compound is capable of functioning to lower the pH of the composition, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention comprises an alkaline agent.
[0158] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferred that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferred that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0159] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkaline agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.
[0160] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0161] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamines containing one to three hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, the alkanolamines can be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0162] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):
[0163] [ka]
[0164] where W represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl group; R a , R b , R c and R d represent independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0165] The amount of alkaline agent in the composition according to the invention may be at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0166] On the other hand, the amount of alkaline agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0168] (acid) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one acid different from the (a) compound or the (b) compound. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0169] Acids may be used to adjust the pH of compositions according to the invention.
[0170] The acid may include any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl), with HCl being preferred.
[0171] The amount of acid in the composition according to the invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] On the other hand, the amount of acid in the composition according to the invention may be less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] Therefore, the amount of acid in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0174] (Other Optional Ingredients) The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient selected from among anionic and amphoteric surfactants, thickeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, antimicrobial agents such as benzoic acid, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, chelating agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, polymers, especially conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.The composition may of course comprise some cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
[0175] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols, in particular monohydric alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol; diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols, such as glycerol; and ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether.
[0176] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional components can be present in conventional amounts that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and can be between 0.01% and 80% by weight for each component. Those skilled in the art will carefully select the components to be included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not impair the properties of the composition used in the present invention.
[0177] (Ammonia and thiol compounds) The composition according to the present invention is preferably free of ammonia or thiol compounds.The term "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compounds.Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains 1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compounds, and in particular does not contain ammonia or thiol compounds.
[0178] Due to the very low or absent amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds, malodour during use of the composition according to the invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0179] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (-SH) group.
[0180] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, especially its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, especially its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, especially its s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.
[0181] The salts may include, for example, ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. The primary, secondary or tertiary amine may include, for example, monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0182] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0354835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0368763; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0432000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0514282; (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate based mixtures (67 / 33) described in French Patent Application No. 2679448.
[0183] (Reducing and Oxidizing Agents) Compositions according to the invention may include a reducing agent, however, it is preferred that compositions according to the invention contain reduced amounts of reducing or oxidizing agents, and preferably are free of reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0184] The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the composition according to the invention does not contain a substantial amount of reducing or oxidizing agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains 1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of reducing or oxidizing agents, and in particular no reducing or oxidizing agents.
[0185] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are as described above.
[0186] Non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and sulfites and bisulfites of metals, more preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.
[0187] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0188] (form) The compositions used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0189] The composition used in the present invention may be in any herbal form, for example, the composition used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as a cream, lotion, gel, etc.
[0190] The compositions according to the invention can be used to treat, preferably to reshape, and more preferably to straighten, keratinous fibres such as hair.
[0191] [method] The present invention also relates to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition according to the present invention onto keratinous fibres; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; (iii) reshaping, preferably straightening, the keratin fibers at a temperature of preferably more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C, even more preferably more than 150°C; The present invention also relates to a method, comprising:
[0192] Details of the compositions used in the methods according to the invention are set out above in the section entitled "Compositions".
[0193] The method according to the invention aims at reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair, more preferably keeping them straight for a long period of time, even more preferably keeping them straight even after several washings. In this sense, the method according to the invention can be a semi-permanent reshaping, preferably straightening, method.
[0194] The keratinous fibers are preferably washed prior to step (i). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately prior to step (i).
[0195] In step (i), the composition according to the invention as described above is applied to keratinous fibres such as hair. The application of the composition according to the invention can be carried out by any means, such as by a brush or a comb.
[0196] The liquor ratio of the composition according to the invention to be applied to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the composition to be applied and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0197] After application of the composition according to the present invention, the keratinous fibers may be left undisturbed, if necessary, for a particular length of time, typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0198] After step (i), the method according to the invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratinous fibers, with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.
[0199] Therefore, when step (ii) is present, the keratinous fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition according to the invention from the keratinous fibers. The rinsing step may be carried out using water. The keratinous fibers are preferably dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out by conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.
[0200] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, after step (i), the keratinous fibers can be treated with step (iii) without rinsing.
[0201] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to reshaping, preferably straightening, using a heater such as a heated iron or heated curlers, at a temperature preferably above 50° C., more preferably above 100° C., even more preferably above 150° C. This temperature may be below 250° C., preferably below 240° C., more preferably below 230° C. Thus, this temperature may be higher than 50° C. and lower than 250° C., preferably higher than 100° C. and lower than 240° C., more preferably higher than 150° C. and lower than 230° C.
[0202] Reshaping can be performed by applying any mechanical force, such as mechanical tension, to the keratinous fibers. The mechanical force can be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means that transforms the keratinous fibers into an intended shape. For example, the mechanical force can be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and combinations thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb may be used as the reshaping means. A hair dryer capable of blowing gas such as air may also be used as the reshaping means.
[0203] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler and / or at least one heated comb and / or at least one heated dryer capable of blowing hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferred to use at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler.
[0204] The heating iron may be any conventional heating iron. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electric heat. The heated plate may be applied onto keratin fibers and moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0205] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, at least one of which can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0206] It is preferred that the heating iron, and in particular the part thereof (such as one or more heating plates) in contact with the keratinous fibers, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0207] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more strokes of the heating iron moving along the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of strokes of the heating iron.
[0208] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of strokes of the heating iron, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0209] As the heated curler, any conventional heated curler may be used. When the keratin fibers are wound around the heated curler, this winding may be performed over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. For example, the winding may be performed in more or less thick bundles, depending on the shape of the desired hairstyle and the amount of curl.
[0210] The heated curler, particularly parts thereof such as the heating rod and the heating cover, which are in contact with the keratinous fibers, preferably have a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0211] Step (iii) can be carried out by maintaining the keratinous fibers on heated curlers such that a mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curlers but also by the intensity of the mechanical tension.
[0212] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating curler, but also on the strength of the mechanical tension, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0213] Optionally, prior to step (ii), a mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibres as described above.
[0214] [kit] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: At least one selected from the group consisting of irons, curlers, combs, dryers, and combinations thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb, or heated dryer, capable of subjecting keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C.; Compositions according to the invention The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
[0215] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or heated curler, may be used as said iron or curler in the kit according to the invention.
[0216] The heater in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature higher than 50° C., preferably higher than 100° C., more preferably higher than 150° C. This temperature may be lower than 250° C., preferably lower than 240° C., more preferably lower than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be higher than 50° C. and lower than 250° C., preferably higher than 100° C. and lower than 240° C., more preferably higher than 150° C. and lower than 230° C.
[0217] The iron or curler and the composition in the kit according to the invention may be used as described above in the section entitled "Method".
[0218] Details of the compositions used in the kits according to the present invention are described above in the section entitled "Compositions."
[0219] [use] The present invention relates to the use of (c) at least one fatty amine in a composition for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably by heating, said composition comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). and may concern the use thereof for prolonging the reshaping effect on keratinous fibers treated with the composition, in particular for further maintaining the straight shape of the keratinous fibers or for preventing or reducing wavy keratinous fibers.
[0220] The heating is not limited, so long as the keratin fibers can be heated to a temperature higher than 50° C., preferably higher than 100° C., more preferably higher than 150° C. The temperature may be lower than 250° C., preferably lower than 240° C., more preferably lower than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be higher than 50° C. and lower than 250° C., preferably higher than 100° C. and lower than 240° C., more preferably higher than 150° C. and lower than 230° C.
[0221] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty alcohol and / or (g) at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0222] The above statements regarding (a) the compound, (b) the compound, and (c) the fatty amine, as well as (d) water, (e) oil, (f) fatty alcohol, and (g) nonionic surfactant, are applicable in the composition used for use according to the invention. EXAMPLES
[0223] The present invention will now be described in a more detailed manner by means of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0224] (Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components are all based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0225] [Table 1]
[0226] [evaluation] Each of the above compositions was used to straighten hair swatches, which were then evaluated according to the following protocol. 1) A Chinese black natural colored slightly wavy hair swatch (27 cm long) was washed with the SLES shampoo composition shown in Table 2 below. The hair swatch was thoroughly rinsed with tap water.
[0227] [Table 2]
[0228] 2) Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was applied in an amount of 0.6 g onto a wet hair swatch. 3) The hair sample was left at room temperature (25°C) for 10 minutes. 4) The hair swatches were thoroughly rinsed with tap water. 5) The hair sample was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, Tescom Denki Co., Ltd.) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 6) The hair swatches were subjected to straightening by straightening with a hair iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Denki Co., Ltd.) at 180° C., 4 seconds / stroke, 3 strokes. 7) Immediately after step 6, the hair swatches were visually evaluated for straightening level under the following criteria (straightening effect at TO): 5: Very good 4: Good 3: Normal 2: Bad 1: Very poor The results are shown to the left of the " / " in the row "Hair straightening effect (T0 / T1sh)" in Table 1. 8) A photograph was taken of the hair swatch immediately after step 6 and the area of the hair swatch (expressed in pixels) was determined with the open source public domain software Image J. The results are shown to the left of the " / " in the row "Area (T0 / T1sh)" of Table 1. 9) The hair swatches were washed again with the SLS shampoo composition shown in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water, and dried with a hair dryer (approximately 90 seconds until dry). 10) The straightening level and area of the hair swatches were evaluated again as described above (T1sh). The results are shown to the right of the " / " in the rows "Straightening Effect (T0 / T1sh)" and "Area (T0 / T1sh)" in Table 1.
[0229] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of a fatty amine together with the combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid can further maintain the straight shape of hair or suppress the increase in hair volume that reflects the non-straightening or wavy nature of hair, compared to the use of the combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid alone.
Claims
1. A composition for keratin fibers such as hair, (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof. (b) at least one compound different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, and (c) at least one fatty amine A composition containing the following:
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (a) in the composition is less than 15% by mass, preferably less than 14% by mass, and more preferably less than 13% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (b) in the composition is 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) fatty amine is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicaamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (c) fatty amine in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
7. (d) The composition according to claim 1, further comprising water.
8. (e) The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one oil.
9. (f) The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one aliphatic alcohol.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.
11. The composition according to claim 1, which contains no ammonia or thiol compounds at all, or contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, of ammonia or thiol compounds based on the total mass of the composition.
12. The composition according to claim 1, which contains no reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or contains a reducing agent or oxidizing agent in an amount of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
13. The composition according to claim 1 for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably for straightening them.
14. A method for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably for straightening them, (i) a step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 onto the keratin fibers, (ii) A step of optionally rinsing the keratin fibers and then drying or not drying the keratin fibers after rinsing, (iii) a step of reshaping the keratin fibers, preferably straightening them, at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C. Methods that include...
15. A kit for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably for straightening them, An iron, curler, comb, dryer, and combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, heating curler, heating comb, or heating dryer, which can apply a temperature higher than 50°C, preferably higher than 100°C, and more preferably higher than 150°C to the keratin fibers. At least one selected from the group consisting of, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 A kit that includes this.