Anhydrous cosmetic composition for smooth application and less greasiness
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-29
AI Technical Summary
Anhydrous cosmetics tend to be greasy or oily after application and are difficult to apply uniformly due to high viscosity, while low viscosity formulations drip easily on keratin substances like skin.
An anhydrous cosmetic composition containing at least one kind of oil other than aliphatic alcohol, an organic gelation agent such as urethane polymer, a branched alcohol, and a peeling agent, which provides a gel form with appropriate viscosity and reduces greasiness.
The composition achieves smooth application and minimal greasiness by maintaining a suitable viscosity, allowing for uniform application and effective peeling of keratin layers.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions, in particular to anhydrous cosmetic compositions. [Background technology]
[0002] In the field of cosmetics, there are anhydrous cosmetics that contain no water or only a small amount of water. Anhydrous cosmetics typically contain at least one oil as a main ingredient.
[0003] Anhydrous cosmetics tend to have a greasy or oily feeling after application, which is uncomfortable. The greasy or oily feeling of anhydrous cosmetics can be reduced if the viscosity of the anhydrous cosmetics is reduced. However, it is difficult to apply low-viscosity anhydrous cosmetics to keratinous materials such as skin because they drip. Therefore, it is preferable to thicken or gel the anhydrous cosmetics using at least one gelling agent. On the other hand, it is difficult to apply high-viscosity anhydrous cosmetics evenly.
[0004] WO 2021 / 132045 discloses an anhydrous composition comprising, as an organic lipophilic gelling agent, ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer in an amount of 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] WO 2021 / 132045 [Patent Document 2] FR2608150 [Patent Document 3] FR2699818 [Patent Document 4] FR2706478 [Patent Document 5] FR2907339 [Patent Document 6] FR2814943 [Patent Document 7] FR2873026 [Patent Document 8] U.S. Patent No. 4,698,360 [Patent Document 9] U.S. Patent No. 6,372,266 [Patent Document 10] U.S. Patent No. 5,720,956 [Patent Document 11] FR2908769 [Patent Document 12] FR2704754 [Patent Document 13] FR2877004 [Patent Document 14] FR2854160 [Patent Document 15] EP0511118 [Patent Document 16] WO94 / 11338 [Patent Document 17] FR2698095 [Patent Document 18] FR2737205 [Patent Document 19] EP0755925 [Patent Document 20] FR2825920 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] There remains a need for anhydrous compositions that can be thickened, have adequate application properties, provide good smoothness during application, and also reduce greasiness after application.
[0007] It is an object of the present invention to provide an anhydrous composition which is thickened, can have suitable application properties, imparts good smoothness during application, and also reduces greasiness after application. [Means for solving the problem]
[0008] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent This can be achieved by an anhydrous composition comprising:
[0009] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0010] The amount of (a) oil in the anhydrous composition according to the invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0011] (b) The organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer.
[0012] The amount of (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the anhydrous composition according to the invention may be less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1.5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0013] (c) The fatty alcohol may be selected from branched fatty alcohols, preferably from hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0014] The amount of the (c) fatty alcohol in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0015] (d) The peeling agent may be selected from mechanical peeling agents and chemical peeling agents. The mechanical peeling agent may be selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars. The chemical peeling agent may be selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] The amount of the peeling agent (d) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0017] Anhydrous compositions according to the present invention may be clear.
[0018] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin, more preferably an anhydrous skin peeling composition.
[0019] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous materials, such as the skin, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous material an anhydrous composition according to the invention.
[0020] The present invention also provides (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent The present invention also relates to the use of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from (b) urethane polymers in an anhydrous composition comprising the composition for thickening said composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0021] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide an anhydrous composition which can be thickened, have suitable applicability, provide good smoothness during application, and also reduce greasiness after application.
[0022] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent The anhydrous composition comprises:
[0023] The term "anhydrous" composition means herein a composition that does not contain water or that contains less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The anhydrous compositions according to the present invention can be thickened, have suitable application properties, provide good smoothness during application and also reduce greasiness after application.
[0025] Since the anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, the anhydrous composition according to the invention is thickened and is preferably in the form of a gel, i.e. an oil-gel.
[0026] The term "gel" as used herein includes thick liquids that may be Newtonian or non-Newtonian. Newtonian fluids refer to fluids whose viscosity does not change with changes in flow conditions. Gels also include shear-thinning gels.
[0027] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a gel having a non-Newtonian viscosity. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be shear-thinning. A non-Newtonian shear-thinning material changes state from a gel to a liquid in the presence of an applied shear stress and reverts to a gel in the absence of an applied shear stress. A shear-thinning material is, by definition, one in which the viscosity of the material decreases non-linearly when the applied shear stress is increased.
[0028] The anhydrous composition according to the invention may be characterized by its rheological properties: the anhydrous composition according to the invention may have a storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa to 10,000 Pa, preferably 100 Pa to 7,500 Pa, more preferably 500 Pa to 5,000 Pa.
[0029] The storage modulus (G') can be measured using a rheometer with 40 mm parallel plates and the following conditions: Setting interval: 500μm Temperature: 25°C Strain(%): 1% Frequency: 1Hz
[0030] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can have suitable applicability because a storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa or more can ensure that the anhydrous composition is not easily destroyed before application, and a storage modulus (G') of 10,000 Pa or less can ensure that the anhydrous composition does not become a hard solid that is difficult to apply.
[0031] When the anhydrous composition according to the present invention has the above storage modulus (G'), (d) the peeling agent can be well dispersed in the anhydrous composition, and therefore the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can effectively peel off the superficial layer of keratinous materials such as the stratum corneum of the skin.
[0032] When the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (f) a skin care active ingredient, the (f) skin care active ingredient can penetrate the skin well.
[0033] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0034] [Composition] The anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent Includes.
[0035] The anhydrous compositions according to the invention are described in detail below.
[0036] (oil) The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. Two or more (a) oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0037] As used herein, the expression "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). (a) Oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0038] An (a) oil, as used herein, is not a fatty alcohol, and therefore, an (a) oil is different from a (c) fatty alcohol.
[0039] The (a) oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0040] It may be preferred that the (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable-derived oils, synthetic oils such as ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, squalene, natural triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils, such as hydrogenated polyolefins (eg, C6 to C20), ester oils (eg, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate), ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0043] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0044] Preferably, in esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0045] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0047] Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0049] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0050] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They can be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. These compounds, when unsaturated, can have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0051] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0053] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0054] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0055] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, and the like. Examples of suitable glyceryl stearate include prilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Examples of ether oils include dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic / caprylic triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinoleate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone oil.Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc., cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc., and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Preferably, the oily phase of the present invention does not contain any silicone oil, in other words, the (a) oil of the present invention can be selected from non-silicone oils.
[0060] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil. The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned are hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0061] Preferably, the oily phase of the present invention does not contain any hydrocarbon oil, in other words, the (a) oil of the present invention can be selected from non-hydrocarbon oils.
[0062] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0063] The (a) oil is preferably selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The amount of (a) oil in the anhydrous composition according to the invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0065] On the other hand, the amount of (a) oil in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0066] The amount of (a) oil in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be in the range of 50% to 95% by mass, preferably 60% to 90% by mass, and more preferably 70% to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0067] (Organic lipophilic gelling agent) The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent (b). Two or more organic lipophilic gelling agents (b) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic lipophilic gelling agent may be used, or a combination of different types of organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used.
[0068] The term "lipophilic" is used herein to refer to the degree of hydrophilicity at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "soluble in oil" means a substance that is soluble in oil at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) relative to the total weight of the oil.
[0069] The term "gelling" as used herein means that component (b) is capable of thickening or increasing the viscosity of the anhydrous composition of the present invention.
[0070] (b) The organic lipophilic gelling agent is selected from urethane polymers. The term "urethane polymer" as used herein means a polymer containing at least one urethane bond (-NH-COO-). The urethane polymer preferably contains a plurality of urethane bonds, more preferably contains a plurality of repeat units each containing at least one urethane bond, especially a plurality of urethane bonds.
[0071] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent is preferably crosslinked.
[0072] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles. The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the form of particles may have a number average particle size, for example, in the range of 1 μm to 20 μm. The term "number average size" refers to the dimension given by the random particle size distribution of half of the population, D 50 (b) The organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of a powder.
[0073] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer. The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer of an isocyanate and trimethylolhexyllactone, in particular a hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer. Examples of copolymers include urethane polymer powders sold under the names Plastic Powder D-400®, Plastic Powder D-800® or Plastic Powder CS-400® by Toshiki Pigment Co., Ltd., or Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer by Lubrizol.
[0074] Most preferably, as (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent, the anhydrous composition of the present invention may comprise a hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, such as that sold under the name Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer by the company Lubrizol.
[0075] The amount of (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the anhydrous composition of the invention may be more than 0.01% by weight, preferably more than 0.05% by weight, more preferably more than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0076] On the other hand, the amount of (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1.5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0077] The amount of (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the anhydrous composition of the invention may be more than 0.01% and less than 2% by weight, preferably more than 0.05% and less than 1.5% by weight, more preferably more than 0.1% and less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0078] (b) The organic lipophilic gelling agents are capable of thickening the anhydrous compositions of the invention even in small amounts, for example less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0079] (Fatty alcohol) The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more (c) fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols may be used.
[0080] The term "aliphatic" as used herein refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched. Two or more aliphatic alcohols may be used in combination.
[0081] (c) The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, e.g., from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is 12 ~C 24 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 24 alkenyl groups, which may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxy group.
[0082] (c) The fatty alcohol may be selected from linear or branched fatty alcohols.
[0083] Non-limiting examples of linear fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] Examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] (c) The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in the commercial product.
[0086] According to at least one embodiment, the (c) fatty alcohol used in the anhydrous composition of the invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0087] Non-limiting examples of branched fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0088] (c) The aliphatic alcohol is preferably selected from branched aliphatic alcohols, more preferably selected from hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] The amount of (c) the fatty alcohol in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0090] On the other hand, the amount of (c) aliphatic alcohol in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 40% by mass or less, preferably 30% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0091] The amount of the (c) aliphatic alcohol in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 30% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0092] (peeling agent) The anhydrous composition of the present invention comprises at least one (d) peeling agent. Two or more (d) peeling agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of peeling agent or a combination of different types of peeling agents may be used.
[0093] By peeling agent is meant herein a material capable of removing a superficial layer of keratinous material, such as the stratum corneum or horny layer of the skin.
[0094] (d) The peeling agent may be selected from mechanical peeling agents and chemical peeling agents. Mechanical peeling agents can remove superficial layers such as the stratum corneum from keratinous materials such as skin by any mechanical action such as scrubbing. Chemical peeling agents can remove superficial layers such as the stratum corneum from keratinous materials such as skin by any chemical action such as dissolving the superficial layers.
[0095] The mechanical peeling agent may be selected from water-soluble particles.
[0096] Water-soluble particles: The term "water soluble" as used herein refers to water soluble compounds at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 By "solubility in water" is meant a substance that has a solubility in water at 100 MPa (200 MPa) of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, more preferably at least 100 g / L.
[0097] Preferably, the water-soluble particles are insoluble in oil, ie, have a solubility in oil of less than 1 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L.
[0098] The water-soluble particles may be of any shape, regardless of crystalline form (eg lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.), and may be platelet-shaped, spherical, oval, or polygonal.
[0099] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles can function as water-soluble scrubbing particles. The water-soluble particles as scrubbing particles can physically destroy keratinous materials such as skin, especially the stratum corneum. In this embodiment, the water-soluble particles can be formed in the form of particles with hard sharp edges or rough surfaces. The sharp edge particles can be formed in the form of polygonal pyramids.
[0100] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of at least 1.1, preferably at least 1.2, more preferably at least 1.5, even more preferably at least 2, especially at least 2.5. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of 2 or less, preferably 1.5 or less, more preferably 1.2 or less. The aspect ratio can be measured by techniques common in the art, for example, image analysis using an electron microscope.
[0101] In another particular embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by image analysis of 0.95 or less, preferably 0.9 or less, more preferably 0.85 or less, even more preferably 0.8 or less. In another embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by image analysis of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, more preferably 0.85 or more, even more preferably 0.9 or more.
[0102] "Average circularity" can be determined by image analysis methods. In particular, "average circularity" can be the arithmetic mean of circularities obtained by image analysis of scanning electron microscope (SEM) images of 2000 or more particles observed at 1000x magnification by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).
[0103] The "roundness" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula: C=4πS / L 2 [where C represents the circularity, S represents the area of the particle in the image (projected area), and L represents the perimeter (outer perimeter) of the particle in the image.] As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.
[0104] The water-soluble particles may have an average primary particle size of 10 μm or more, preferably 30 μm or more, more preferably 50 μm or more, even more preferably 100 μm or more, and especially 200 μm or more. The average primary particle size of the water-soluble particles may be 1 mm or less, preferably 800 μm or less, more preferably 600 μm or less, and even more preferably 500 μm or less.
[0105] The term "average primary particle size" as used herein refers to the volume-average size mean diameter given by the statistical particle size distribution for half of the population, D 50 For example, the volume average particle size can be measured with a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as a Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.
[0106] The material of the water-soluble particles is not particularly limited, so long as it dissolves upon contact with water. Preferably, however, the water-soluble particles are comprised of ingredients that are cosmetically beneficial to keratinous materials such as the skin.
[0107] For example, the water-soluble particles may be composed of polysaccharides, monosaccharides, amino acids, sugar alcohols, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof. Polysaccharides may include disaccharides, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trisaccharides, such as raffinose, and mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and heparin. Monosaccharides may include pentoses, hexoses, and heptoses, such as glucose, dextrose, galactose, mannose, and glucuronic acid. Sugar alcohols may include sorbitol and glucamine. Ascorbic acid may include vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside.
[0108] Preferably, the water-soluble particles comprise polysaccharide particles, more preferably sucrose.
[0109] Chemical peeling agents may be selected from polyhydroxy acids.
[0110] Polyhydroxy acids: The term "polyhydroxy acid" as used herein means an organic compound having at least one carboxy group and multiple hydroxy groups. The number of carboxy groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxy groups are preferred, and one carboxy group is more preferred. The number of hydroxy groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but is preferably 2 to 10, and more preferably 2 to 6. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but is preferably 3 to 11, and more preferably 3 to 8.
[0111] The organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferred that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.
[0112] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acids such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutyric acids such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acids such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid, and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acids such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acids such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The polyhydroxy acid is preferably in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of polyhydroxy acids in the form of lactones include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] More preferably, (d) the peeling agent is gluconolactone.
[0115] The polyhydroxy acid may be in the form of a salt.
[0116] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts and triethanolamine salts; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salts are preferred. When two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0117] Chemical peeling agents may be selected from monohydroxy acids.
[0118] Monohydroxy acids: The term "monohydroxy acid" as used herein means an organic compound having at least one carboxy group and one hydroxy group. The number of carboxy groups in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxy groups are preferred, and one carboxy group is more preferred. The number of carbon atoms in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferred, and 3 to 8 are more preferred.
[0119] The monohydroxy acids may be selected from alpha-monohydroxy acids, beta-monohydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] The term "alpha-monohydroxy acid" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having at least one carboxy group and one hydroxy group separated by one carbon atom. Thus, in other words, an alpha-monohydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid having one hydroxy group on adjacent (alpha) carbon atoms.
[0121] The alpha-monohydroxy acid may be selected, for example, from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from glycolic acid.
[0122] The term "beta-monohydroxy acid" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having at least one carboxy group and one hydroxy group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0123] The beta-monohydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.
[0124] The monohydroxy acid may be in the form of a salt.
[0125] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts and triethanolamine salts; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salts are preferred. When two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0126] Preferably, the chemical peeling agent is selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably gluconolactone, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0127] The amount of (d) the peeling agent in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0128] On the other hand, the amount of (d) the peeling agent in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0129] The amount of (d) the peeling agent in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0130] (Hyaluronic acid) The anhydrous composition of the present invention may comprise (e) at least one hyaluronic acid or salt thereof. Two or more hyaluronic acids or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hyaluronic acid or salt thereof, or a combination of different types of hyaluronic acids or salts thereof may be used.
[0131] Hyaluronic acid is the predominant glycosaminoglycan found in the skin. Therefore, fibroblasts predominantly synthesize collagen, non-collagenous matrix glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. Keratinocytes, for their part, predominantly synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.
[0132] Hyaluronic acid is present in free state in the epidermis and dermis and is responsible for the turgor of the skin.This polysaccharide can actually hold a large volume of water, up to 1000 times its mass.In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amount of water bound in tissue, and also in the mechanical properties and wrinkle formation of the skin.
[0133] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:
[0134] [ka]
[0135] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically encompasses the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of the formula:
[0136] [ka]
[0137] It is the smallest portion of hyaluronic acid that contains a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0138] Salts can include alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt is not limited. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, more preferably 2,000 kDa or less. Therefore, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably 20 kDa to 10 MDa, more preferably 100 kDa to 2,000 kDa.
[0140] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" may mean number average molecular weight.
[0141] The amount of (e) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0142] On the other hand, the amount of (e) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0143] The amount of (e) hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0144] (Active skin care ingredient) The anhydrous compositions of the present invention may comprise (f) at least one skin care active. Two or more skin care actives may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of skin care active or a combination of different types of skin care actives may be used.
[0145] (f) The skin care actives may be in the form of salts. The salts of the (f) skin care actives include conventional non-toxic salts formed, for example, from acids or bases.
[0146] (f) It may be preferred that the skin care active is a skin care cosmetic active, more preferably an anti-aging agent such as an antioxidant.
[0147] In one embodiment, (f) the skin care active may be selected from lipophilic antioxidants.
[0148] According to the present invention, an antioxidant is a compound or substance capable of scavenging the various radical forms that may be present in the skin, preferably the antioxidant simultaneously scavenges all of the various radical forms present.
[0149] By lipophilic antioxidant is meant that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant between n-butanol and water is >1, more preferably >10, even more preferably >100.
[0150] Lipophilic antioxidants are hydrophobic, as opposed to hydrophilic antioxidants such as ascorbic acid or glutathione.
[0151] As the lipophilic antioxidant, there can be mentioned a phenolic antioxidant having a hindered phenol structure or a semi-hindered phenol structure in the molecule. Specific examples of such compounds include 3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid (INCI name: pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate), 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, tris[N-(3,5-di -tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, 1,1,3-tris(2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1-bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionato]methane, triethylene glycol bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1-dimethylethyl}-2,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro[5.5]Undecane, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylene bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylene bis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6-(4-hydroxy -3,5-di-tert-butylanilino)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl acrylate, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4,6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate, 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate] and mixtures thereof.
[0152] Lipophilic antioxidants include BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienols) and their derivatives, such as phosphate derivatives, e.g. TPNA® sold by Showa Denko KK, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids, such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, polyphenols, phenolic acids and derivatives (e.g. chlorogenic acid), and flavonoids, which represent a major subgroup of polyphenols.
[0153] Among the flavonoids, particular mention may be made of chalcones, hydroxylated chalcones and their reduced derivatives (especially those described in patent FR2608150), such as phloretin, neohesperidin, phloridzin, aspalathin, etc., flavanones, such as hesperetin and naringin, flavonols, such as quercetin, rutin, flavanols, such as catechin, EGCG, flavones, such as apigenidin, and finally anthocyans. Tannins may also be mentioned. Reference may also be made to the compounds described in patent applications FR2699818, FR2706478, FR2907339, FR2814943 and FR2873026.
[0154] The polyphenolic compounds may be derived from plant extracts, selected from among green tea, apple, hops, guava, cocoa, or extracts of trees such as chestnut, oak, horse chestnut or hazel. It is also possible to use an extract of Pinus maritime bark, obtained, for example, according to the methods described in US Patent No. 4,698,360, US Patent No. 6,372,266 and US Patent No. 5,720,956. As an example of such an extract, one can cite the compound with the INCI name Pinus maritime (extract of bark) and the CTFA name Extract of Pinus maritime bark. It may in particular be an extract of Pinus maritime bark marketed under the name PYCNOGENOL® by the BIOLANDES AROMES firm and / or HORPHAG Research. Extracts of pine bark (Maritime) from LAYN Natural Ingredients, Pine Bark from Blue California and also Oligopin® from DRT (Les Derives Resiniques et Terpeniques) can also be cited.
[0155] In the context of the present invention, the term "polyphenolic compounds" thus also encompasses the plant extracts themselves which are rich in these polyphenolic compounds.
[0156] Among the lipophilic antioxidants that may also be mentioned are dithiolanes, such as asparagusic acid or its derivatives, such as siliceous dithiolane derivatives, especially those described, for example, in patent application FR 2 908 769.
[0157] Among the lipophilic antioxidants that may also be mentioned are: Glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and / or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (e.g., those described in patent applications FR2704754 and FR2908769); and Cysteine and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. Reference may also be made to the cysteine derivatives described in patent applications FR2877004 and FR2854160; and Ferulic acid and its derivatives (esters, salts, etc.). Particular mention may be made of esters of ferulic acid with C1-C30 alcohols, specifically methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate, octyl ferulate and oryzanyl ferulate; Certain enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductase, to protect against oxidative stress; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (among others those described in patent application EP 0511118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing same (except for cress); Diisopropyl esters with N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, especially those described in patent applications WO 94 / 11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925, and Deferoxamine (or Desferal), described in patent application FR2825920.
[0158] Preferably, the lipophilic antioxidant used is a chalcone, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, or an extract of maritime pine bark, such as PYCNOGENOL®.
[0159] Examples of lipophilic antioxidants include pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.
[0160] The amount of (f) skin care active in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0161] On the other hand, the amount of (f) skin care active in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0162] The amount of (f) skin care active in the anhydrous composition of the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0163] (Other Optional Ingredients) In addition to the above-mentioned components, the anhydrous composition of the present invention may contain other optional components typically used in cosmetics, specifically, lipophilic thickeners other than component (b), waxes, preservatives, etc., within the range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0164] The anhydrous composition of the present invention may contain the above-mentioned optional components in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
[0165] [Preparation] The anhydrous compositions of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients described above, and, where necessary, the optional ingredients described above.
[0166] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the anhydrous composition of the present invention.
[0167] [form] The anhydrous compositions of the present invention can be clear.
[0168] The transparency can be measured by measuring the turbidity (for example, the turbidity can be measured using a 2100Q (commercially available from Hach Company) with a round cell (diameter 25 mm and height 60 mm) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. A blank can be determined using distilled water.
[0169] Anhydrous compositions of the present invention may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 150 NTU or less, more preferably 100 NTU or less, more preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.
[0170] The anhydrous compositions of the present invention can take a variety of forms, such as lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, and the like.
[0171] [Method and Use] The anhydrous composition of the present invention is preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for keratinous materials such as the skin, more preferably an anhydrous skin peeling composition, where skin peeling means herein the exfoliation of the superficial layers of the skin, in particular the stratum corneum of the skin.
[0172] Skin, as used herein, includes facial skin, neck skin and scalp. The anhydrous compositions of the invention can also be used on mucous membranes, such as the lips.
[0173] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the present invention is a skin care composition.
[0174] The anhydrous compositions of the present invention can be used in non-therapeutic methods, such as cosmetic methods, for treating keratinous materials, preferably for treating skin, more preferably for exfoliating skin, by application to keratinous materials.
[0175] The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous materials, preferably for treating the skin, more preferably for exfoliating the skin, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition of the present invention to keratinous materials, in particular to the skin.
[0176] The anhydrous composition used in the above-mentioned step of the cosmetic method of the present invention is the same as that described above.The method of applying the anhydrous composition to keratinous material is not particularly limited, and any method known in the art can be used.Generally, the anhydrous composition can be applied by hand.
[0177] The cosmetic method of the present invention may further include a step of massaging the keratinous material to which the anhydrous composition of the present invention is applied. This step can promote the destruction of the keratinous material, particularly the surface of the stratum corneum, by the peeling agent (d) in the anhydrous composition. The massaging step may be carried out for at least 10 seconds.
[0178] The cosmetic method of the present invention may further comprise the step of removing the anhydrous composition from the keratinous material, which can be carried out, for example, by rinsing with water.
[0179] Another aspect of the present invention is a method for producing a (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent The present invention relates to the use of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from (b) urethane polymers in an anhydrous composition comprising the composition for thickening the composition.
[0180] The above-mentioned use of the present invention may be characterized in that (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent is used to thicken an anhydrous composition comprising (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol, (c) at least one fatty alcohol, and (d) at least one peeling agent.
[0181] The above explanations regarding the components (a) to (d) and optional components of the anhydrous composition of the present invention are applicable to the above uses of the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and form of the anhydrous composition of the present invention are also applicable to the anhydrous composition described in the above uses of the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0182] The present invention will now be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0183] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1) Each of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. All numerical values for the amounts of components in Table 1 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0184] [Table 1]
[0185] [evaluation] (Visual Aspects) The visual aspects of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 were evaluated according to the following criteria. Good: transparent gel Poor: Non-transparent gel (opaque solution)
[0186] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0187] (Storage modulus) The storage modulus G' of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 was measured using a Discovery Hybrid Rheometer 2 (TA Instruments) with 40 mm parallel plates set at a distance of 500 μm under conditions of a frequency of 1 Hz and an oscillatory strain of 1% at 25° C. The storage modulus G' of the composition of Comparative Example 1 could not be measured because it was not a gel.
[0188] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0189] (Smoothness) Ten expert judges evaluated the "smoothness" during application of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3. Each judge took about 5 g of each composition, then applied it by gently rubbing it on his / her hand for 1 minute, evaluated the smoothness during application, and scored it from 1 (bad) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following four categories based on the average of the scores: Very good: 5.0~4.0 Good: 3.9~3.0 Bad: 2.9~2.0 Very poor: 1.9~1.0
[0190] The smoothness during application of the composition of Comparative Example 1 was not evaluated because it was not a gel, and therefore the results of Comparative Example 1 could not be compared to those of Examples 1-3.
[0191] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0192] (Olivia) Ten expert judges evaluated the "greasiness" after application of the compositions of Examples 1 to 3. Each judge took about 5 g of each composition, then applied it by gently rubbing it on his / her hands for 1 minute, evaluated the greasiness after application, and scored it from 1 (bad) to 5 (very good), and then classified it into the following four categories based on the average score. Very good: 5.0~4.0 Good: 3.9~3.0 Bad: 2.9~2.0 Very poor: 1.9~1.0
[0193] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0194] The greasiness after application of the composition of Comparative Example 1 was not evaluated because it was not a gel, and therefore the results of Comparative Example 1 could not be compared to those of Examples 1-3.
[0195] (Summary) The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 containing components (a) to (d) in the composition of the present invention were in the form of a gel, had a storage modulus of 50 Pa to 10,000 Pa (meaning that these compositions had suitable applicability), imparted smoothness during application, and were less greasy after application.
[0196] It should be noted that the amount of HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer corresponding to component (b) in the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 was not large. It is surprising that a small amount of component (b) can thicken the compositions of Examples 1 to 3.
[0197] On the other hand, the composition of Comparative Example 1, which did not contain component (b), was not in the form of a gel. Therefore, the composition of Comparative Example 1 could not be compared with the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 in terms of storage modulus and smoothness and greasiness.
[0198] It should be noted that ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer is a class of polyamides and is not a urethane polymer, so the ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer contained in the composition of Comparative Example 1 does not correspond to component (b) in the composition of the present invention.
Claims
1. (a) At least one oil other than aliphatic alcohols, (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers, (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one type of peeling agent An anhydrous composition containing the above.
2. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
3. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of oil (a) in the anhydrous composition is 50% by mass or more, preferably 60% by mass or more, and more preferably 70% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
4. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent is HDI / trimethylolhexyllactone crosspolymer.
5. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the anhydrous composition is less than 2% by mass, preferably less than 1.5% by mass, and more preferably less than 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
6. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) aliphatic alcohol is preferably selected from branched aliphatic alcohols, hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
7. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (c) aliphatic alcohol in the anhydrous composition is 0.1% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 1% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
8. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the (d) peeling agent is selected from a mechanical peeling agent and a chemical peeling agent.
9. The anhydrous composition according to claim 8, wherein the mechanical peeling agent is selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars.
10. The anhydrous composition according to claim 8, wherein the chemical peeling agent is selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
11. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (d) peeling agent in the anhydrous composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the anhydrous composition.
12. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, which is transparent.
13. The anhydrous composition according to claim 1, which is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for keratinous substances such as skin, and more preferably an anhydrous skin peeling composition.
14. A cosmetic method for keratinous substances such as skin, comprising the step of applying the anhydrous composition described in any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratinous substance.
15. (a) At least one oil other than aliphatic alcohols, (c) at least one aliphatic alcohol, and (d) at least one type of peeling agent (b) Use of at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers in an anhydrous composition containing the above to thicken the composition.