Process for treating keratin fibers
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-30
AI Technical Summary
The prior art has problems of inefficiency and great damage in maintaining hair shape for a long time, and the use of reducing and oxidizing agents in traditional permanent methods leads to long treatment times and damage to the hair.
Two different compositions A and B are used, which contain protein denaturants, and composition B contains sugar acid compounds and keto acid compounds. By treating the hair with heat, the use of reducing or oxidizing agents is avoided, so as to maintain the shape of the hair for a long time.
Provides the effect of maintaining hair shape for a long time while reducing hair damage, avoiding adverse odors and short treatment times from the use of reducing or oxidizing agents.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates primarily to a method for treating, preferably reshaping, and more preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair. [Background technology]
[0002] Reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, by heating them with an iron is popular for making unruly keratinous fibers easier to manage and reducing the volume of the keratinous fibers, making them look more desirable. While such reshaping methods using heated irons are convenient for instant styling, the style only lasts for a short time, for example until the next shampoo wash. For many consumers, a long-lasting method of straightening hair is needed.
[0003] On the other hand, the conventional permanent reshaping method using reducing and alkaline agents and oxidizing agents and heating can provide keratin fibers with a long-lasting style, but has several drawbacks, such as long processing time, damage to keratin fibers, and bad odor.
[0004] Several methods have been reported to reshape keratin fibers without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents.
[0005] For example, US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition in liquid form with an aqueous base or in emulsion form with a fatty phase, which comprises 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.
[0006] In addition, JP-A-2019-123701 is (1) applying to hair a hair treatment agent containing (a) 13 to 30% by mass of levulinic acid and (b) 1 to 2% by mass of glyoxylic acid, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more, and having a pH in the range of 1.5 to 3.0; (2) leaving the hair; (3) washing the hair with water; (4) Simultaneously with or after drying the hair, straightening the hair using a hair styling or straightening iron, brush, or the like at a specific temperature. The present invention discloses a method for treating hair, comprising:
[0007] In addition, US-A-2012-312317 is a) applying a solution comprising an alpha-keto acid capable of acting as a buffer; b) maintaining the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes; c) drying the hair; d) straightening the hair using a hair straightening iron at a temperature of about 200 + / - 50°C. The present invention discloses a method for semi-permanent hair straightening, comprising: [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0008] [Patent Document 1] US-A-2023 / 0000742 [Patent Document 2] JP-A-2019-123701 [Patent Document 3] US-A-2012-312317 [Patent Document 4] European Patent Application Publication No. 0354835 [Patent Document 5] European Patent Application Publication No. 0368763 [Patent Document 6] European Patent Application Publication No. 0432000 [Patent Document 7] European Patent Application Publication No. 0514282 [Patent Document 8] French Patent Application Publication No. 2679448 [Non-patent literature]
[0009] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Non-Patent Document 3] "Handbook of Surfactants", by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0010] There remains a need for improved reshaping methods for keratinous fibers.
[0011] It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, which is capable of providing an improved reshaping effect to the keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0012] The object of the invention as stated above is a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturant and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). and (iii) optionally, after completing both steps (i) and (ii), heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, This can be achieved by a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i).
[0013] (a) The protein denaturant may be selected from urea and its derivatives.
[0014] The amount of (a) protein denaturant in composition A may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0015] The amount of the (b) compound in composition B may be, relative to the total mass of composition B, 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more.
[0016] The (c) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0017] The amount of the (c) compound in composition B may be, relative to the total mass of composition B, 0.1 mass % or more, preferably 0.5 mass % or more, and more preferably 1 mass % or more.
[0018] The mass ratio of the (b) compound to the (c) compound contained in the composition B may be in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:1.
[0019] The pH of Composition B may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less.
[0020] The method according to the invention may not involve the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
[0021] The method according to the invention may not involve applying a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
[0022] Composition A may further comprise at least one polyol.
[0023] The amount of polyol in composition A may be from 5% by mass to 60% by mass, preferably from 10% by mass to 50% by mass, and more preferably from 15% by mass to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of composition A.
[0024] The pH of composition A may be 4-11, preferably 5-10, and more preferably 6-9.
[0025] The present invention relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturant Composition A comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). Composition B comprising: The present invention may relate to a kit comprising:
[0026] The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of composition A and composition B for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: Composition A is (a) at least one protein denaturant Including, Composition B is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). It also relates to use, including DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0027] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, which is capable of providing an improved and longer-lasting reshaping effect on the keratinous fibers by applying two different compositions, composition A and composition B, composition A comprising at least one protein denaturant and composition B comprising at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or a salt thereof.
[0028] The present invention therefore relates primarily to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturant and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). and (iii) after completing both steps (i) and (ii), heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, The present invention relates to a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i).
[0029] The present invention makes it possible to improve the method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, by applying two different compositions, Composition A and Composition B, by providing an improved reshaping effect.
[0030] Reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, as used herein includes straightening or curling the keratinous fibers.
[0031] The present invention can provide a longer lasting reshaping effect, preferably straightening effect, on keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can extend or prolong the reshaping effect on keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the reshaped shape of the keratinous fibers or prevent or reduce the loss of the reshaped shape of the keratinous fibers over time.
[0032] The present invention does not require the use of any reducing / oxidizing agents and therefore can result in less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional reshaping methods. Keratinous fibers treated according to the present invention can exhibit durability in terms of combability.
[0033] In addition, the present invention may not use ammonia or thiol compounds or may use very little of them, and therefore, compared with the conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or thiol compounds, the odor during use of the present invention can be reduced.The present invention also allows for good ease of use, such as short processing time.
[0034] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0035] [method] The present invention relates to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturant and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). and (iii) optionally, after completing both steps (i) and (ii), heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, The present invention relates to a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i).
[0036] The method according to the invention aims at reshaping keratin fibres such as hair, preferably for a long time, more preferably even after shampooing, in which sense the method according to the invention can be a semi-permanent reshaping method.
[0037] {Process (i)} Step (i) is a step for applying to keratin fibers composition A. Composition A will be described in detail below.
[0038] Application of Composition A may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0039] The liquor ratio of the applied composition A to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0040] The amount of composition A applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0041] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are washed before step (i). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately before step (i). The washing step is preferably carried out once before carrying out the method of the present invention.
[0042] After application of composition A, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a specific length of time, typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0043] Composition A may or may not be rinsed off the keratinous fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, after step (i), the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A off the keratinous fibers.
[0044] {Step (ii)} Step (ii) is a step for applying to keratin fibers composition B. Composition B will be described in detail below.
[0045] Application of Composition B may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0046] The liquor ratio of the applied composition B to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0047] The amount of composition B applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0048] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are washed prior to step (ii). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with a shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately prior to step (ii).
[0049] After application of composition B, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a specific length of time, typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, to allow composition B to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0050] Composition B may or may not be rinsed off the keratinous fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, after step (ii), the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B off the keratinous fibers.
[0051] In a preferred embodiment, there is no washing step between steps (i) and (ii).
[0052] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises step (i) followed by step (ii), in that order, and in this embodiment, preferably no rinsing step is included between steps (i) and (ii).
[0053] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises step (ii) followed by step (i), in that order, and in this embodiment, preferably a rinsing step is included between steps (ii) and (i).
[0054] In another preferred embodiment, the method comprises step (i), followed by step (ii), followed by step (i) again, in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferred that no rinsing step is included between steps (i) and (ii), and that a rinsing step is included between steps (ii) and (i).
[0055] {Step (iii)} Step (iii) is an optional step, which consists in heating the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 150° C. Step (iii) can be carried out after both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed.
[0056] In one embodiment, the keratinous fibers are dried immediately prior to step (iii). Drying the keratinous fibers can be carried out by conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.
[0057] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated using a heater, preferably a heating iron, at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 150° C. This temperature may be below 250° C., preferably below 240° C., more preferably below 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be above 50° C. and below 250° C., preferably above 100° C. and below 240° C., more preferably above 150° C. and below 230° C.
[0058] Heating can be accomplished by conventional means, such as application of a heated iron or curlers or drying with a hairdryer.
[0059] Reshaping may also be performed by applying some mechanical force, such as mechanical tension, to the keratinous fibers. The mechanical force may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means that transforms the keratinous fibers into an intended shape. For example, the mechanical power may be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, and combinations thereof. As the reshaping means, any conventional iron or curler may be used.
[0060] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler. By reshaping the keratinous fibres, the keratinous fibres may be straightened or curled. Thus, the method according to the invention may be aimed at straightening or curling keratinous fibres, such as hair.
[0061] The heating iron may be any conventional heating iron. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electric heat. The heated plate may be applied onto keratin fibers and moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0062] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, at least one of which can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0063] It is preferred that the heating iron, in particular the part thereof, such as the heating plate or plates, which is in contact with the keratinous fibers, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0064] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more strokes of the heating iron moving along the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of strokes of the heating iron.
[0065] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of strokes of the heating iron, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0066] As the heating curler, any conventional heating curler may be used. When the keratin fibers are wound around the heating curler, this winding may be performed over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. For example, the winding may be performed in more or less thick bundles, depending on the shape of the desired hairstyle and the amount of curl.
[0067] The heating curler, in particular parts thereof, such as the heating rod and the heating cover, which come into contact with the keratinous fibers, preferably has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0068] Step (iii) can be carried out by maintaining the keratinous fibers on heated curlers and thus applying a mechanical tension to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curlers but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.
[0069] The heating time may be determined by the temperature of the heating curler, but also by the strength of the mechanical tension, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0070] Optionally, prior to step (iii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.
[0071] Compositions A and B used in the method according to the present invention will now be described in detail.
[0072] Composition A Composition A of the present invention is (a) at least one protein denaturant Includes.
[0073] (form) Composition A used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0074] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of a solution, more preferably an aqueous solution.
[0075] Composition A used in the present invention may be in any herbal medicine form. For example, Composition A used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as cream, lotion, or gel.
[0076] (pH) The pH of composition A used in the present invention may be 11 or less, preferably 10 or less, more preferably 9 or less, measured at 25°C.
[0077] Composition A used in the present invention may have a pH of 4 or more, preferably 5 or more, more preferably 6 or more, measured at 25°C.
[0078] The pH of composition A used in the present invention may be from 4 to 11, preferably from 5 to 10, more preferably from 6 to 9, measured at 25°C.
[0079] The components of Composition A are described in detail below.
[0080] (a) Protein Denaturant Composition A in the method according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) protein denaturant. Two or more (a) protein denaturants may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of (a) protein denaturant or a combination of different types of (a) protein denaturants may be used in composition A.
[0081] As used herein, the term "protein denaturant" refers to a compound that has the function of loosening the conformation of a protein and dissociating hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions between polypeptide side chains. The protein denaturant may be a protein-denaturing osmolyte / chaotropic agent.
[0082] The (a) protein denaturant is different from the (b) compound and the (c) compound described below.
[0083] The (a) protein denaturant of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has the above-described function, and may be any of urea and urea derivatives thereof; guanidine and its salts, such as guanidine chloride; salts that denature proteins, such as perchlorates, for example, lithium perchlorate, lithium acetate, magnesium chloride, KCl, LiCl, NH 4 Cl, (NH 4 ) 2 SO 4 detergents that denature proteins, preferably anionic detergents such as sodium dodecyl sulfate and lithium dodecyl sulfate; and organic solvents such as ethanol, n-butanol, 2-propanol, and phenol.
[0084] In a preferred embodiment, the (a) protein denaturant is selected from urea and urea derivatives.
[0085] The term "urea derivative" refers to a compound which contains in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. the unit urea (CO(NH 2 ) 2 ) means any compound apart from itself.
[0086] [ka]
[0087] Preferably, the (a) compound is selected from compounds of formula (I) or (II), a salt thereof, or a hydrate thereof:
[0088] [ka]
[0089] [In formula: R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent: (i) a hydrogen atom, or (ii) Linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C 1 ~C 5 Lower alkyl or alkenyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Alkoxy group, C 6 ~C 18 Aryl groups, 5-8 membered heterocyclic groups (these groups include the following groups: (di)(C 1 ~C 4 )(Alkyl)amino, carboxyl, halogen, C 6 ~C 18 optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxamido and N-methylcarboxamido; At this time, it is understood that: - when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 is selected from the group consisting of carboxamido, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C 1 ~C 6 ) alkylcarbonyl, such as acetyl, or (C 1 ~C6 ) alkoxycarbonyl groups, such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl, optionally substituted with chlorine atoms or with hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl groups; - when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl group and R4 may represent an acetyl group; - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 together with the nitrogen atom which carries them can form a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; - R1 and R2, and also R3 and R4, together with the nitrogen atom which holds them, can form an imidazole ring; R5 and R6, independently of one another, represent: (iii) a hydrogen atom, or (iv) Linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C 1 ~C 5 Lower alkyl group, acyl group or alkenyl group, C 1 ~C 5 Alkoxy group, C 6 ~C 18 Aryl groups, 5-8 membered heterocyclic groups (these groups are substituted with the following groups: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C 6 ~C 18 optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxamido and N-methylcarboxamido; A is the following group: CH 2 -CH 2 , CH=CH, CH 2 -CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 , C.H. 2 -NH-CO, CH=C(CH 3 )-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH 2 -CH 2 -CO, CH2 -N(CH 3 )-CH 2 , NH-CH 2 -NH, CO-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 , CO-CH 2 -CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH 2 , CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH 3 ), CO-C(NH 2 )=CH, CO-C(CH 3 )=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.
[0090] Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the following: - urea, - methylurea, - Ethyl urea, - propyl urea, - n-butyl urea, - sec-butyl urea, - isobutyl urea, tert-butyl urea, - cyclopentyl urea, - ethoxyurea, - hydroxyethyl urea, - N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, - N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, - N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, - N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, - benzyl urea, - N-carbamoylmaleamide, - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, - piperidine carboxamide, - 1,2,4-triazol-4-yl urea, - hydantoic acid, - methyl allophanate, - ethyl allophanate, - acetyl urea, - Hydroxyethylene urea, - 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, - Diallyl urea, - Chloroethylurea, - N,N-dimethylurea, - N,N-diethylurea, - N,N-dipropyl urea, - cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, - 1,3-dimethylurea, - 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, - 1,3-dipropyl urea, - ethyl-3-propyl urea, - sec-butyl-3-methylurea, - isobutyl-3-methylurea, - cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, - N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, - Trimethylurea, - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, - Tetramethylurea, and - Benzyl urea.
[0091] Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the following: - Parabanic acid, - 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, - Barbiturates, - Uracil, - 1-methyluracil, - 3-methyluracil, - 5-methyluracil, - 1,3-dimethyluracil, - 5-azauracil, - 6-azauracil, - 5-fluorouracil, - 6-fluorouracil, - 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil, - 5-aminouracil, - 6-aminouracil, - 6-amino-1-methyluracil, - 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil, - 4-chlorouracil, - 5-chlorouracil, - 5,6-dihydrouracil, - 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil, - 2-imidazolidone, - 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, - 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, - 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, - 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, - 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, - 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, - 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, - 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine, - 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one, - Hydantoin, - 1-methylhydantoin, - 5-methylhydantoin, - 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, - 5-ethylhydantoin, - 5-n-propylhydantoin, - 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, - 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, - 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, - 1-arylhydantoin, - 1-aminohydantoin, - hydantoin-5-acetic acid, - 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, - hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione, - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, - 1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one, - 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine, - Urazol, - 4-methylurasol, - orotic acid, - dihydroxyorotic acid, - 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, - 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, - 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, - 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, - cyanuric acid, - 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, - 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone, - 5-hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, - 6-azathymine, - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, and - Alloxan monohydrate.
[0092] Preferentially, the (a) protein denaturant is selected from urea and hydroxyethylurea, more preferably urea.
[0093] The (a) protein denaturant may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of Composition A.
[0094] The (a) protein denaturant may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of Composition A.
[0095] The amount of (a) protein denaturant in composition A of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition A.
[0096] Composition B Composition B of the present invention is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). Includes.
[0097] (form) Composition B used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0098] Composition B of the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0099] Composition B used in the present invention may be in any herbal medicine form. For example, composition B used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as cream, lotion, gel, etc.
[0100] (pH) The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less, measured at 25°C.
[0101] The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3, measured at 25°C.
[0102] The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be from 3 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6, more preferably from 3 to 5, measured at 25°C.
[0103] The components of Composition B are described in detail below.
[0104] (b) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives Composition B of the present invention contains (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] A single type of (b) compound may be used, but two or more different types of (b) compounds may also be used in combination.
[0106] The (b) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (b) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.
[0107] Glyoxylic acid solvates can include, for example, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0108] Glyoxylates can include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid, such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0109] Examples of the glyoxylic acid ester include alkyl glyoxylates such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0110] Glyoxylic acid amides include, for example, N-glyoxyloyl carbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acid.
[0111] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as the (b) compound.
[0112] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0113] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition B of the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, more preferably less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition B.
[0114] Therefore, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% by weight to less than 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to less than 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition B.
[0115] In another embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be more than 3% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition B.
[0116] Therefore, in this embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound in composition B of the present invention may be more than 3% by weight and less than 25% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably more than 10% by weight and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0117] (c) Keto acids Composition B of the present invention comprises at least one compound selected from (c) keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, which is different from (b) compounds. Two or more (c) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) compound or a combination of different types of (c) compounds may be used.
[0118] The keto acid may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] The α-keto acid may be a compound represented by the general formula (I): R 1 -C(=O)-COOH (I) (In the formula, R 1 is a linear or branched C optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or halogen atoms such as chlorine or bromine atoms; 1 ~C 6 indicates an alkyl group).
[0120] An example of an α-keto acid is pyruvic acid.
[0121] The β-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (II): R 2 -C(=O)-R 3 -COOH (II) (In the formula, R 2 is a linear or branched C optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or halogen atoms such as chlorine or bromine atoms; 1 ~C 6 represents an alkyl group, R 3 represents a methylene group, optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).
[0122] An example of a β-keto acid is acetoacetic acid.
[0123] The γ-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (III): R 2 -C(=O)-R 4 -COOH (III) (In the formula, R 2 is a linear or branched C optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or halogen atoms such as chlorine or bromine atoms; 1 ~C 6 represents an alkyl group, R 4 represents an ethylene group, optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine atom or a bromine atom.
[0124] An example of a γ-keto acid is levulinic acid.
[0125] The salt of the keto acid may be an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of the keto acid, such as sodium or potassium keto acid salts, and magnesium or calcium keto acid salts.
[0126] As compound (c), it is preferred to use a γ-keto acid, more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof, such as sodium levulinate.
[0127] The amount of the (c) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be, relative to the total mass of the composition B, 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more.
[0128] The amount of the compound (c) in the composition B of the present invention is 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition B.
[0129] Therefore, the amount of the (c) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition B.
[0130] In one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound in composition B of the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of composition B.
[0131] Therefore, in this embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 4% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0132] In another embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound in the composition B of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition B.
[0133] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) compound is present in a smaller amount than the (b) compound in composition B. For example, the mass ratio of the (b) compound to the (c) compound contained in composition B may be in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:1.
[0134] (Other Optional Ingredients) - water Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may contain water.
[0135] Therefore, when compositions A and B according to the invention each comprise water, compositions A and B according to the invention are not anhydrous.
[0136] The amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0137] On the other hand, the amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0138] The amount of water in each composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 90% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 85% by mass, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0139] - Alkaline agent Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not contain at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0140] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not contain any alkaline agent, while composition B contains at least one alkaline agent.
[0141] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The alkaline agent is preferably non-volatile. The inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0142] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkaline agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.
[0143] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0144] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as 1-3 hydroxyalkyl (C 1 ~C 4 In particular, the alkanolamine may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0145] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):
[0146] [ka]
[0147] (Wherein, W is hydroxyl or C 1 ~C 4 represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with an alkyl group; R a , R b , R c and R d are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or C 1 ~C 4hydroxyalkyl groups), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0148] The amount of alkaline agent in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0149] On the other hand, the amount of alkaline agent in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0150] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent in each composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0151] - oil Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not contain at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used, or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0152] In one embodiment, composition B of the invention comprises at least one oil. In one embodiment, composition A of the invention does not comprise at least one oil.
[0153] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste or solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0154] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0155] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0156] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0157] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0158] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 ~C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0159] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0160] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monohydric alcohols, there may be mentioned ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0161] C 4 ~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 ~C 22 Esters with alcohols and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C 4 ~C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0162] Mention may in particular be made of the following: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0163] As an ester oil, C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids of the above groups can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0164] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0165] Sugar esters of fatty acids are made by combining the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 ~C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 These compounds, when unsaturated, may have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0166] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0168] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0169] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0170] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic acid / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, and the like. Included are prilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0172] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0173] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from polydialkylsiloxane fluids, in particular polydimethylsiloxane fluids (PDMS) containing at least one aryl group, and polyorganosiloxane fluids.
[0174] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are silicone oils as defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0175] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll, Academic Press (1968). They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
[0176] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly chosen from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the following type, such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane of the formula: for example Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide.
[0177] [ka]
[0178] Also included are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a 50 / 50 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol, and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane. (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and has a density of 5 × 10 at 25 °C -6 m 2Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity of less than 10000 / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.
[0179] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0180] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, but is not limited to, the following commercially available products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by the company Rhodia, such as for example the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the Mirasil® series of oils sold by the company Rhodia; - Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. 60 000mm 2 DC200 with a viscosity of 1.0 oz (200 g) / s; - Viscasil® oils manufactured by General Electric and certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).
[0181] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from Rhodia.
[0182] Among the silicones containing aryl groups there are the polydiarylsiloxanes, especially the polydiphenylsiloxanes and the polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned are the products sold under the following names: - Rhodia Silbione® oils, series 70 641; Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia; - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil, - PK series silicones from Bayer, e.g. product PK20, - Certain oils of the SF series manufactured by General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0183] The organically modified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., as well as Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0184] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic C 6 ~C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0185] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0186] The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils, even more preferably from monoester oils.
[0187] The amount of oil in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0188] On the other hand, the amount of oil in each of compositions A and B according to the invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0189] Therefore, the amount of oil in each of Compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0190] - Fatty alcohol Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not contain at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of fatty alcohols may also be used in combination.
[0191] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol, while composition A does not comprise a fatty alcohol.
[0192] The term "aliphatic" as used herein refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched. Two or more aliphatic alcohols may be used in combination.
[0193] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, e.g., from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 24 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 24 alkenyl groups, R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0194] Non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0195] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0196] The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several types of fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
[0197] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0198] (h) The fatty alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol.
[0199] The amount of aliphatic alcohol in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0200] On the other hand, the amount of fatty alcohol in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0201] Therefore, the amount of aliphatic alcohol in each of Compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0202] - Non-ionic surfactants Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not contain at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may also be used in combination.
[0203] The optional component of a non-ionic surfactant herein may be different from the (a) protein denaturant.
[0204] In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0205] Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds in themselves or in themselves (see, for example, in this respect, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, the nonionic surfactants can be chosen, for example, from alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, which compounds can be ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolized and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Mention can also be made of maltose derivatives. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide;Condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;Polyethoxylated fatty amides, for example containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;Polyglycerolated fatty amides, for example containing 1.5 to 5, for example 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups;Ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;Ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin;Fatty acid esters of sucrose;Fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol;Glycerol (C 6 ~C 24 Polyethoxylated fatty acid mono- or diesters of N-(C) alkyl polyglycosides; 6 ~C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-(C 10 ~C 14 ) amine oxides such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof; can also be included, but are not limited to these.
[0206] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants, the oxyalkylene units being more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0207] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned are: Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C 8 ~C 24 ) alkylphenols, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C 8 ~C 30 Amides, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Esters of acids with monoalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycols; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 ~C 30 Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and Especially the condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, either alone or in mixtures.
[0208] The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.
[0209] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of ethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), monooxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0210] An example of a monooxyalkylenated fatty ester that may be mentioned is glycol distearate.
[0211] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0212] Polyoxyethylated saturated fatty alcohols (or C 8 ~C 30Examples of the ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more especially those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are ceteareth-2 to ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are steareth-2 to steareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are isosteareth-2 to isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0213] Polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C 8 ~C 30 Examples of ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol include the ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names oleth-2 to oleth-20), and mixtures thereof.
[0214] The non-ionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.
[0215] The amount of nonionic surfactant in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0216] On the other hand, the amount of nonionic surfactant in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0217] Therefore, the amount of the nonionic surfactant in each of Compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.25% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.5% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0218] - Polyol Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not contain at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyols may also be used in combination.
[0219] In one embodiment, both compositions A and B contain at least one polyol.
[0220] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0221] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds bearing at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0222] Preferably, the polyol is a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl type compound carrying at least two -OH functional groups, preferably from 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably from 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0223] Advantageously suitable polyols are especially those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0224] The polyol may be chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and mention may be made, inter alia, of: diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and - Triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
[0225] In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0226] The polyol may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0227] The polyol may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of up to 50% by weight, preferably up to 40% by weight, more preferably up to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition.
[0228] The amount of polyol in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 50% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 40% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0229] - Monohydric alcohol Each of the compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not contain at least one monohydric alcohol. A single type of monohydric alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of monohydric alcohols may also be used in combination.
[0230] The optional component of monohydric alcohol herein may be different from the (a) protein denaturant.
[0231] In one embodiment, composition B of the invention comprises at least one monohydric alcohol.In one embodiment, composition A of the invention does not comprise at least one monohydric alcohol.
[0232] The monohydric alcohol, as used herein, may be a hydrophilic monohydric alcohol that is water soluble. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to mean that the material is hydrophilic at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in water" means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0233] The monohydric alcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monohydric alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0234] In one embodiment, the monohydric alcohol may be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0235] The term "aliphatic monohydric alcohol" as used herein means any linear or branched saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0236] The aliphatic monohydric alcohol may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0237] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monohydric alcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0238] The amount of monohydric alcohol in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, more preferably 0.25% by weight or more, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0239] On the other hand, the amount of monohydric alcohol in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0240] Therefore, the amount of monohydric alcohol in each of Compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 25% by mass, preferably 0.2% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.25% by mass to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0241] - Optional Ingredients Each of compositions A and B according to the invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, in particular chosen from viscosity modifiers, thickeners such as polysaccharides, sunscreens, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, chelating agents, pearlescent agents and opacifiers, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, conditioning polymers, in particular cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants.The composition may of course comprise some cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
[0242] In another embodiment of the present invention, the amount of polyol in composition B of the present invention may be 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 2% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition B.
[0243] The above optional ingredients can be present in normal amounts, which can be easily determined by one skilled in the art, and may be between 0.01% and 80% by weight of each ingredient in each of compositions A and B. One skilled in the art will carefully select the ingredients to be included in the composition and also their amounts so as not to harm the properties of the composition used in the present invention.
[0244] - Ammonia and thiol compounds It is preferred that the method according to the present invention does not include applying ammonia or thiol compounds to keratin fibers.Therefore, it is preferred that each of compositions A and B is free of ammonia or thiol compounds.The term "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or thiol compounds.
[0245] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention contains no more than 1% by weight, more preferably no more than 0.5% by weight, even more preferably no more than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compounds, and in particular no ammonia or thiol compounds.
[0246] Due to the very low or no amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds used, odors during the process according to the invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0247] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (-SH) group.
[0248] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is selected from thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, particularly its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, particularly its C-terminal esters such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; 1 ~C 4 They may be selected from the group consisting of acyl derivatives; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially esters; cysteine and its derivatives, especially esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, especially s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.
[0249] The above salts may include, for example, ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. The primary, secondary or tertiary amine may include, for example, monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0250] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 514 282; (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate based mixtures (67 / 33) as described in FR-A-2 679 448.
[0251] - Reducing and oxidizing agents The method according to the invention preferably does not include the application of a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers. Therefore, each of compositions A and B preferably does not contain a reducing or oxidizing agent. The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the composition does not contain a substantial amount of a reducing or oxidizing agent.
[0252] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the invention comprises no more than 1% by weight, more preferably no more than 0.5% by weight, even more preferably no more than 0.1% by weight of a reducing or oxidizing agent, and in particular no reducing or oxidizing agent.
[0253] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are as described above.
[0254] Non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and sulfites and bisulfites of metals, more preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.
[0255] The oxidizing agent can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0256] {Optional step (iv)} The method according to the invention may or may not comprise an additional step (iv) for applying to the keratinous fibres at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B. The treatment composition is described in detail below.
[0257] Application of the treatment composition may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0258] The method according to the invention may comprise step (iv) after applying both compositions A and B and before step (iii), if present. Thus, the method according to the invention may comprise step (iv) after completing both steps (i) and (ii) and before step (iii), if present.
[0259] In one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention comprises steps (i), (ii), (iv) and (iii), in that order.
[0260] In another embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention comprises steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii), in that order.
[0261] The method according to the invention may comprise the optional step of rinsing the keratinous fibres, immediately before and / or after step (iv), with or without drying the keratinous fibres.
[0262] After application of the treatment composition, the keratinous fibers may be left undisturbed for a particular length of time, if desired, typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0263] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.01 g to 0.5 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0264] The method according to the invention may comprise one step (iv) or may comprise two or more steps (iv). In a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention may comprise two steps (iv).
[0265] If the method comprises more than one step (iv), each step (iv) may comprise the application of the same or a different treatment composition.
[0266] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises two steps (iv), each step (iv) comprising applying a different composition to the keratinous fibres.
[0267] In one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention does not include a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a leave-on cosmetic composition.
[0268] (Treatment Composition) The form of the treatment compositions that can be used in the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used in the present invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0269] The pH of the treatment composition that can be used in the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7 at 25°C.
[0270] The formulation of the treatment composition is not particularly limited, and any composition for keratin fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field can be used. In one embodiment, the treatment composition may be a hair care composition.
[0271] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.
[0272] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one amino-modified silicone or amino silicone.
[0273] The term "aminosilicone" as used herein means a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0274] The amount of (a) silicone in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by mass, preferably from 3% to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the treatment composition.
[0275] The polyols that may be included in the treatment composition are the same as those described above, and the same descriptions are applicable.
[0276] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol, and other polyols such as glycerol.
[0277] The amount of polyol in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by mass, preferably from 1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the treatment composition.
[0278] The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.
[0279] The amount of water in the treatment composition may be 40% by mass to 95% by mass, preferably 50% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 60% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0280] [kit] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair, comprising a combination of composition A and composition B of the invention.
[0281] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one protein denaturant Composition A comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). Composition B comprising: The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
[0282] In a kit according to the invention, composition A and composition B may be supplied separately, for example in different containers.
[0283] The kit according to the invention may further comprise at least one heater, such as an iron or curlers, capable of applying to the keratinous fibres a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C.
[0284] The heater in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C. The temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.
[0285] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or heated curler, may be used as said iron or curler in a kit according to the invention.
[0286] The heater is preferably a heating iron or curler as described above in the section entitled "Method". Also, details of the compositions used in the kit according to the invention are described above in the section entitled "Method".
[0287] [use] The present invention may relate to the use of a combination of composition A and composition B according to the invention for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair.
[0288] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a combination of composition A and composition B for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres such as hair, comprising: Composition A is (a) at least one protein denaturant Including, Composition B is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). It also relates to use, including
[0289] In particular, the present invention relates to the use of a composition A as a pre-treatment and / or post-treatment agent for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres with a composition B, Composition A is (a) at least one protein denaturant Including, Composition B is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (b). Including, regarding use.
[0290] The use according to the invention can be carried out by heating the keratin fibres, preferably the hair. In the use according to the invention, the heating can be carried out after the compositions A and B have been applied to the keratin fibres.
[0291] The heating is not limited as long as the keratin fibers can be heated to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably more than 150° C. The temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.
[0292] Details of compositions for use according to the present invention are set forth above in the section entitled "Methods." EXAMPLES
[0293] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0294] [Preparation] Compositions A and B were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 and 2. All component amounts are based on "mass %" of the ingredients.
[0295] [Table 1]
[0296] [Table 2]
[0297] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4) Example 1 1 g of Brazilian curly hair swatches (Type IV) 27 cm in length were shampooed with 0.5 g of the plain shampoo composition. The formula of the plain shampoo composition is shown in Table 3 below. All component amounts are based on "wt %" of the ingredients. The hair swatches were rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0298] [Table 3]
[0299] An amount of 0.2 g of composition A was applied to wet hair swatches as a pre-treatment (step (i)).
[0300] Then, without rinsing, an amount of 0.6 g of Composition B was applied to the hair swatch (step (ii)).
[0301] The hair swatches were left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25° C.) The hair swatches were then thoroughly rinsed with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair swatches were dry.
[0302] The hair swatches were subjected to straightening by 3 strokes using a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2 from Hakko Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180° C., 4 seconds / stroke (step (iii)).
[0303] Comparative Example 1 The same hair swatches as used in Example 1 were shampooed with 0.5 g of plain shampoo according to Example 1. The formula of the plain shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. No treatment was then applied to the hair swatches according to Comparative Example 1. Therefore, steps (i)-(iii) were not performed in this method.
[0304] Comparative Example 2 The sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared by shampooing with 0.5g of the plain shampoo according to Example 1, and then drying the hair swatch with a hair dryer until the hair swatch was dry.The hair swatch was then subjected to straightening using a straightening iron without any treatment.The straightening process was the same as that of Example 1.Therefore, in this method, only step (iii) was carried out.
[0305] Comparative Example 3 The sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, but without the pretreatment with Composition A. Therefore, in this method, step (i) of the present invention was not carried out.
[0306] Example 2 The sample according to Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but using Chinese curly hair swatches (Type III) instead of Brazilian curly hair swatches (Type IV).
[0307] Example 3 Example 2 was repeated, but after rinsing off composition B with tap water, 0.25 g of hair care composition Y was applied to the hair swatch. The hair swatch was left at room temperature (25° C.) for 5 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. 0.03 g of hair care composition Z was then applied to the hair swatch. The hair swatch was dried using a hair dryer until it was dry and then subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.
[0308] Therefore, the method according to Example 3 included the additional step (iv).
[0309] The formulations of Hair Care Compositions Y and Z are shown below in Tables 4 and 5, respectively. All component amounts are based on "wt %" of the ingredients.
[0310] [Table 4]
[0311] [Table 5]
[0312] Comparative Example 4 The sample according to Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, but without the pretreatment with Composition A. Therefore, in this method, step (i) was not carried out.
[0313] The methods according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 are summarized in Table 4. As explained above, in these examples, steps (i), (ii), (iv), and (iii), if present, were carried out in this order.
[0314] [Table 6]
[0315] (Examples 4 and 5) Example 4 1 g of Chinese curly hair swatch (Type III) having a length of 27 cm was shampooed with 0.5 g of plain shampoo, the formula of which was the same as that used in Example 1.
[0316] An amount of 0.6 g of composition B was applied to wet hair swatches as a pre-treatment (step (ii)).
[0317] The hair swatches were left at room temperature (25° C.) for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0318] A 0.2 g amount of Composition A was applied to the hair swatch as a post-treatment (step (i)). The hair swatch was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair swatch was dry.
[0319] The hair swatches were subjected to straightening by 3 strokes using a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2 from Hakko Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180° C., 4 seconds / stroke (step (iii)).
[0320] Example 5 Example 4 was repeated, but after rinsing off composition A with tap water, 0.25 g of hair care composition Y was applied to the hair swatch. The hair swatch was left at room temperature (25° C.) for 5 minutes, and then thoroughly rinsed off with tap water. 0.03 g of hair care composition Z was then applied to the hair swatch. The hair swatch was then dried with a hair dryer until it was dry. The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z were the same as those used in Example 2.
[0321] Therefore, the method according to Example 5 included the additional step (iv).
[0322] The hair swatches were subjected to straightening by 3 strokes using a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2 from Hakko Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180° C., 4 seconds / stroke (step (iii)).
[0323] The methods according to Examples 4 and 5 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these Examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii), if present, were carried out in this order.
[0324] [Table 7]
[0325] [evaluation] (Hair straightening effect) After each treated hair swatch was kept at room temperature (25°C) for 3 hours, the straightening level of the treated hair swatches was visually evaluated based on three aspects: "straightening performance", "frizz level", and "volume" under the following criteria: 5: Excellent 4: Good 3: Normal 2: Bad 1: Very poor
[0326] (Persistence) The durability of the effect on hair swatches of Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Example 4 using Chinese curly hair (Type III) was evaluated. In particular, the durability of "hair straightening effect" and "ease of combing" was evaluated for the hair swatches after one shampooing with the routine shampoo composition. The formula of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 8 below. After shampooing, the hair swatches were thoroughly rinsed with tap water and dried with a hair dryer (until dry, about 90 seconds).
[0327] The hair straightening effect was measured in the same manner as above, and the evaluation was carried out according to the following criteria. 5: Excellent 4: Excellent 3: Good 2: Normal 1: Bad
[0328] Combability for the treated hair swatches was measured by a trained person combing the swatches and rating their resistance to combing under the following criteria: 4: You can comb your hair without feeling any friction 3: You can comb your hair with almost no friction 2: Easy to comb with acceptably low friction
[0329] [Table 8]
[0330] The results are shown in Table 9 below.
[0331] [Table 9]
[0332] It is clear that the method according to the Example, including steps (i) and (ii), and optionally (iii), provided both improved straightening effect and durability, as compared to the method according to the Comparative Example, which did not include all of steps (i) and (ii), and optionally (iii). Furthermore, the hair swatches treated with the method according to the Example were able to exhibit comparable or improved sensory properties of combability after shampooing, as compared to the hair swatches treated with the method according to the Comparative Example.
Claims
1. A method for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably straightening them, (i) A step of applying composition A to the keratin fiber, wherein composition A is (a) at least one protein denaturant Processes including, (ii) A step of applying composition B to the keratin fibers, wherein composition B is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof, and (c) At least one compound different from the compound in (b), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Processes including, (iii) optionally, after completing both steps (i) and (ii), the step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, A method comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i).
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the (a) protein denaturant is selected from urea and its derivatives.
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of compound (a) in composition A is 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably 1% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of composition A.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (b) in composition B is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of composition B.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the compound (c) is selected from levulinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (c) in composition B is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of composition B.
7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of compound (b) contained in composition B to compound (c) is in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:
1.
8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the pH of composition B is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.
9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fiber is not treated with ammonia or a thiol compound.
10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fiber is not subjected to a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent.
11. The method according to claim 1, wherein composition A further comprises at least one polyol.
12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the polyol in composition A is 5% to 60% by mass, preferably 10% to 50% by mass, and more preferably 15% to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of composition A.
13. The method according to claim 1, wherein the pH of composition A is 4 to 11, preferably 5 to 10, and more preferably 6 to 9.
14. A kit for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably straightening them, (a) at least one protein denaturant Composition A, which includes, (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof, and (c) At least one compound different from the compound in (b), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Composition B containing, A kit that includes this.
15. The use of a combination of composition A and composition B for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibers such as hair, The aforementioned composition A is (a) at least one protein denaturant Includes, The aforementioned composition B is (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof, and (c) At least one compound different from the compound in (b), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Includes, use.