Process for treating keratin fibers
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-30
AI Technical Summary
In the prior art, it is difficult to achieve effective permanent straightening effect when treating keratin fibers, and there are both damage and odor problems. The traditional method takes a long time and damages the fibers seriously.
Composition A containing glycoxylic acid and its derivatives and ketoacid or salts thereof is used to improve the straightening effect of keratin fibers and reduce damage by combining amino-modified siloxane and polyol by a multi-step treatment method including application, permeation and heating.
Provides long-lasting keratin fiber remodeling effects, reduces fiber damage, improves flexibility and slit resistance, simplifies operational procedures, reduces odor release, and does not use reducing or oxidizing agents.
Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates primarily to a method for treating, preferably reshaping, and more preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair. [Background technology]
[0002] Reshaping keratinous fibers such as hair by heating them with an iron is popular for making unruly keratinous fibers easier to manage, reducing the volume of the keratinous fibers, and making them look more desirable. Although reshaping methods using such heated irons are convenient for immediate styling, it is not easy to achieve a sufficient straightening effect.
[0003] On the other hand, the conventional permanent reshaping method using a reducing agent, an alkaline agent and an oxidizing agent and heating can bring about an improved reshaping effect to keratin fibers, but has some drawbacks such as a long processing time, damage to keratin fibers, and bad odor.
[0004] Several methods have been reported to reshape keratin fibers without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents.
[0005] For example, US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition in liquid form with an aqueous base or in emulsion form with a fatty phase, which comprises 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0006] [Patent Document 1] US-A-2023 / 0000742 [Patent Document 2] French Patent Application Publication No. FR-A-85 163 34 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent No. 4,957,732 [Patent Document 4] European Patent No. 0 186 507 [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent No. 4,185,087 [Patent Document 6] EP-A0530974 [Patent Document 7] European Patent Application Publication No. 0354835 [Patent Document 8] European Patent Application Publication No. 0368763 [Patent Document 9] European Patent Application Publication No. 0432000 [Patent Document 10] European Patent Application Publication No. 0514282 [Patent Document 11] French Patent Application Publication No. 2679448 [Non-patent literature]
[0007] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter NOLL, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press [Non-Patent Document 2] "Handbook of Surfactants", by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. [Non-Patent Document 3] CM Hansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967) Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] There remains a need for improved reshaping methods for keratinous fibers.
[0009] It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, which can provide an improved reshaping effect while providing the keratinous fibers with an improved texture, such as less squeaky feeling and better keratinous fiber cohesion, leading to easier combing of the keratinous fibers and easier application of a hair iron to the keratinous fibers. [Means for solving the problem]
[0010] The object of the invention as stated above is a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone and (iii) applying a composition C to keratinous fibers, said composition C comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol and (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C, This can be achieved by a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i), followed by step (iii) and then optionally step (iv).
[0011] The amount of the (a) compound in composition A may be, relative to the total mass of composition A, 0.1 mass % or more, preferably 0.5 mass % or more, and more preferably 1 mass % or more.
[0012] The (b) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] The amount of the (b) compound in composition A may be, relative to the total mass of composition A, 0.1 mass % or more, preferably 0.5 mass % or more, and more preferably 1 mass % or more.
[0014] The mass ratio of the (a) compound to the (b) compound contained in the composition A may be in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:1.
[0015] The (c) silicone in composition B may be selected from amino-modified silicones.
[0016] The amount of (c) silicone in composition B may be from 1 mass % to 30 mass %, preferably from 3 mass % to 20 mass %, and more preferably from 5 mass % to 15 mass %, relative to the total mass of composition B.
[0017] The (c) silicone in composition C may be selected from amino-modified silicones.
[0018] The amount of (c) silicone in composition C may be from 1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition C.
[0019] The amount of the (d) polyol in the composition C may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition C.
[0020] Composition C may be a leave-on cosmetic composition.
[0021] Composition A may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less.
[0022] The method according to the invention may not involve the application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
[0023] The method according to the invention may not involve applying a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
[0024] The present invention relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). Composition A comprising: (c) at least one silicone Composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol and composition C comprising: DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0025] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a method for reshaping keratinous fibers, which can provide an improved reshaping effect on the keratinous fibers by applying three different compositions, composition A, composition B and composition C, composition A comprising at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or a salt thereof, composition B comprising at least one silicone, and composition C comprising at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.
[0026] The present invention therefore relates primarily to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibres such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone and (iii) applying a composition C to keratinous fibers, said composition C comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol and (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C, The method relates to a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i), followed by step (iii) and then optionally step (iv).
[0027] The present invention can improve the method for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, by applying three different compositions, Composition A, Composition B, and Composition C, by providing an improved reshaping effect.
[0028] Reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, as used herein includes straightening or curling the keratinous fibers.
[0029] The present invention can provide a longer lasting reshaping effect on keratinous fibers, such as hair. Thus, the present invention can extend or prolong the reshaping effect on keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the reshaped shape of the keratinous fibers or prevent or reduce the loss of the reshaped shape of the keratinous fibers over time.
[0030] In addition, the method according to the present invention can provide improved texture to keratinous fibers such as hair, such as better smoothness and less squeaky feeling, as well as better keratinous fiber cohesion, which can lead to easier combing of the keratinous fibers and easier application of a hair iron to the keratinous fibers.
[0031] The present invention can result in less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional reshaping methods, since it does not require the use of any reducing / oxidizing agents.Therefore, it can be easier to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention.Therefore, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easily handled.
[0032] In addition, the present invention may not use ammonia or thiol compounds or may use very little of them, and therefore, compared with the conventional methods that require the use of ammonia or thiol compounds, the odor during use of the present invention can be reduced.The present invention also allows for good ease of use, such as short processing time.
[0033] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0034] [method] The present invention relates to a method for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to keratinous fibers, said composition A comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). and (ii) applying composition B to keratinous fibers, said composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone and (iii) applying a composition C to keratinous fibers, said composition C comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol and (iv) optionally heating the keratinous fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C, The method relates to a process comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i), followed by step (iii) and then optionally step (iv).
[0035] The method according to the invention aims at reshaping keratin fibres such as hair, preferably for a long time, more preferably even after shampooing, in which sense the method according to the invention can be a semi-permanent reshaping method.
[0036] {Process (i)} Step (i) is a step for applying to keratin fibers composition A. Composition A will be described in detail below.
[0037] Application of Composition A may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0038] The liquor ratio of the applied composition A to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0039] The amount of composition A applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0040] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are washed before step (i). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately before step (i). The washing step is preferably carried out once before carrying out the method of the present invention.
[0041] After application of composition A, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a particular length of time, typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0042] Composition A may or may not be rinsed off the keratinous fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, after step (i), the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A off the keratinous fibers.
[0043] {Step (ii)} Step (ii) is a step for applying to keratin fibers composition B. Composition B will be described in detail below.
[0044] Application of Composition B may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0045] The liquor ratio of the applied composition B to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0046] The amount of composition B applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0047] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are washed prior to step (ii). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with a shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately prior to step (ii).
[0048] After application of composition B, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a specific length of time, typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, to allow composition B to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0049] Composition B may or may not be rinsed off the keratinous fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, after step (ii), the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B off the keratinous fibers.
[0050] In a preferred embodiment, there is no washing step between steps (i) and (ii).
[0051] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises, in that order, step (i) followed by step (ii), and in this embodiment, preferably, a rinsing step is included between steps (i) and (ii).
[0052] In one embodiment of the invention, the method comprises step (ii) followed by step (i), in that order, and in this embodiment, preferably a rinsing step is included between steps (ii) and (i).
[0053] In another preferred embodiment, the method comprises step (i), followed by step (ii), followed by step (i) again, in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferred that no rinsing step is included between steps (i) and (ii), and that a rinsing step is included between steps (ii) and (i).
[0054] {Step (iii)} Step (iii) is a step for applying to keratin fibers composition C. Composition C will be described in detail below.
[0055] Step (iii) is carried out after both steps (i) and (ii) are completed.
[0056] Application of Composition C may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0057] The liquor ratio of the applied composition C to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and preferably between 0.3 and 2. The term "liquor ratio" is intended to mean the mass ratio between the total mass of the applied composition and the total mass of the keratinous fibers.
[0058] The amount of composition C applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.01 g to 0.1 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0059] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are washed prior to step (iii). This washing step may be carried out, for example, by washing the keratinous fibers with a shampoo, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. The keratinous fibers are preferably wet immediately prior to step (iii).
[0060] After application of composition C, the keratinous fibers may be left in place, if necessary, for a specific length of time, typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, to allow composition C to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0061] Composition C may or may not be rinsed off from the keratinous fibers after step (iii).
[0062] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention does not include a rinsing step after step (iii).In this embodiment, composition C is used as a leave-on cosmetic composition.
[0063] {Step (iv)} Step (iv) is an optional step, which consists in heating the keratin fibers at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 150° C. Step (iv) can be carried out after step (iii) is completed.
[0064] In one embodiment, the keratinous fibers are dried immediately prior to step (iv). Drying the keratinous fibers can be carried out by conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.
[0065] In step (iv), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated using a heater, preferably a heating iron, at a temperature above 50° C., preferably above 100° C., more preferably above 150° C. This temperature may be below 250° C., preferably below 240° C., more preferably below 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be above 50° C. and below 250° C., preferably above 100° C. and below 240° C., more preferably above 150° C. and below 230° C.
[0066] Heating can be accomplished by conventional means, such as by application of heated irons or curlers or hair dryers.
[0067] Reshaping may also be performed by applying some mechanical force, such as mechanical tension, to the keratinous fibers. The mechanical force may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means that transforms the keratinous fibers into an intended shape. For example, the mechanical power may be applied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, and combinations thereof. As the reshaping means, any conventional iron or curler may be used.
[0068] The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler. By reshaping the keratinous fibres, the keratinous fibres may be straightened or curled. Thus, the method according to the invention may be aimed at straightening or curling keratinous fibres, such as hair.
[0069] The heating iron may be any conventional heating iron. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which may be heated, for example, by electric heat. The heated plate may be applied onto keratin fibers and moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0070] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, at least one of which can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten the keratin fibers.
[0071] It is preferred that the heating iron, in particular the part thereof, such as the heating plate or plates, which is in contact with the keratinous fibers, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0072] Step (iv) can be carried out by one or more strokes of the heating iron moving along the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iv) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of strokes of the heating iron.
[0073] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of strokes of the heating iron, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0074] As the heating curler, any conventional heating curler may be used. When the keratin fibers are wound around the heating curler, this winding may be performed over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. For example, the winding may be performed in more or less thick bundles, depending on the shape of the desired hairstyle and the amount of curl.
[0075] The heating curler, in particular the parts thereof, such as the heating rod and the heating cover, which are in contact with the keratinous fibers, preferably has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0076] Step (iv) can be carried out by maintaining the keratinous fibers on heated curlers and thus applying a mechanical tension to the keratinous fibers. Step (iv) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curlers but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.
[0077] The heating time may be determined by the temperature of the heating curler, but also by the strength of the mechanical tension, and may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0078] Optionally, prior to step (iv), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.
[0079] The compositions A, B and C used in the method according to the present invention are described in detail below.
[0080] Composition A Composition A of the present invention is (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). Includes.
[0081] (form) Composition A used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0082] Composition A used in the present invention may be in any herbal medicine form. For example, Composition A used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as cream, lotion, or gel.
[0083] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0084] (pH) Composition A used in the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, more preferably 5 or less, measured at 25°C.
[0085] The pH of composition A used in the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3, measured at 25°C.
[0086] The pH of composition A used in the present invention may be from 3 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6, more preferably from 3 to 5, measured at 25°C.
[0087] The components of Composition A are described in detail below.
[0088] (a) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives Composition A of the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] A single type of (a) compound may be used, but two or more different types of (a) compounds may also be used in combination.
[0090] The (a) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (a) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.
[0091] Glyoxylic acid solvates can include, for example, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0092] Glyoxylates can include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid, such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0093] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl glyoxylates such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0094] Glyoxylic acid amides include, for example, N-glyoxyloyl carbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acid.
[0095] It is preferred to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).
[0096] The amount of the (a) compound in the composition A of the present invention may be, relative to the total mass of the composition A, 0.1 mass % or more, preferably 0.3 mass % or more, more preferably 0.5 mass % or more.
[0097] The amount of the compound (a) in the composition A of the present invention is 25% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition A.
[0098] Therefore, the amount of the (a) compound in the composition A of the present invention may be 0.1 mass % to 25 mass %, preferably 0.3 mass % to 20 mass %, and more preferably 0.5 mass % to 15 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition A.
[0099] In one embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound in composition A of the present invention may be more than 3% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0100] Therefore, in this embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound in the composition A of the present invention may be more than 3% by weight and less than 25% by weight, preferably more than 5% by weight and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably more than 10% by weight and less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition A.
[0101] (b) Keto acids Composition A of the present invention comprises at least one compound selected from (b) keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, which is different from (a) compound. Two or more (b) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.
[0102] The keto acid may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] The α-keto acid may be a compound represented by the general formula (I): R 1 -C(=O)-COOH (I) (In the formula, R 1 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom or a bromine atom).
[0104] An example of an α-keto acid is pyruvic acid.
[0105] The β-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (II): R 2 -C(=O)-R 3 -COOH (II) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom or a bromine atom, R 3 represents a methylene group, optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine or bromine atom).
[0106] An example of a β-keto acid is acetoacetic acid.
[0107] The γ-keto acid may be represented by the general formula (III): R 2 -C(=O)-R 4 -COOH (III) (In the formula, R 2 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with OH, COOH, or a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom or a bromine atom, R 4represents an ethylene group, optionally substituted with a halogen atom, such as a chlorine atom or a bromine atom.
[0108] An example of a γ-keto acid is levulinic acid.
[0109] The salt of the keto acid may be an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt of the keto acid, such as sodium or potassium salts of the keto acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of the keto acid.
[0110] As compound (b), it is preferred to use a γ-keto acid, more preferably levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof, such as sodium levulinate.
[0111] The amount of the (b) compound in the composition A of the present invention may be, relative to the total mass of the composition A, 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more.
[0112] The amount of the compound (b) in the composition A of the present invention is 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition A.
[0113] Therefore, the amount of the (b) compound in the composition A of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 6% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition A.
[0114] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) compound is present in a smaller amount than the (a) compound in composition A. For example, the mass ratio of the (a) compound to the (b) compound contained in composition A may be in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:1.
[0115] Composition B Composition B of the present invention is (c) at least one silicone Includes.
[0116] (form) Composition B used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0117] Composition B of the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0118] Composition B used in the present invention may be in any herbal medicine form. For example, composition B used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as cream, lotion, or gel.
[0119] (pH) The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, more preferably 6 or less, measured at 25°C.
[0120] The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5, measured at 25°C.
[0121] The pH of composition B used in the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7, more preferably from 3.5 to 6, measured at 25°C.
[0122] The components of Composition B are described in detail below.
[0123] (c) Silicone Composition B in the method according to the invention comprises at least one silicone. Two or more silicones may be included in composition B. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used in composition B.
[0124] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" as used herein is understood to mean, according to the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure of variable molecular weight obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, which essentially consist of repeating main units whose silicon atoms are bonded to each other through oxygen atoms (≡Si-O-Si≡siloxane bonds), with optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups bonded directly to the silicon atoms through carbon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, in particular C1-C 10 Alkyl groups, in particular methyl groups, fluoroalkyl groups and aryl groups, in particular phenyl groups.
[0125] (c) The silicone may be selected from silicone oils.
[0126] In the present specification, "silicone oil" means a silicone compound or silicone substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As the silicone oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0127] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", Academic Press, 1968. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0128] Thus, the silicone oil may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones, and mixtures thereof.
[0129] Thus, the silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or may comprise both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0130] The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organofunctional moiety or group. (c) The silicone is preferably non-volatile.
[0131] For example, the silicone oil can be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes; and organically modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional moiety or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxy or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
[0132] The silicone oil may be selected from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes as described above.
[0133] (c) The molecular weight of the silicone, preferably a polydimethylsiloxane having trimethylsilyl end groups, has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 3,000,000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, even more preferably 1,000,000 or less.
[0134] According to one embodiment, (c) the silicone, preferably the silicone oil, may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups, known under the trade name Dimethicone.
[0135] The silicone (c) preferred according to the present invention has a viscosity of 1,000,000 cSt (mm 2 The oil may be a polydimethylsiloxane having trimethylsilyl end groups, such as an oil having a viscosity at 25° C. of more than 1 / s), even more preferentially more than 2,000,000 cSt, even more particularly more than 5,000,000 cSt, even better still more than 10,000,000 cSt, and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 15,000,000 cSt.
[0136] According to the invention, all polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of a solution, emulsion, nanoemulsion or microemulsion.
[0137] Non-limiting examples of commercially available products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (a product of Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., a nonionic emulsion of dimethicone oil), BY22-060 (a product of Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., a cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (a product of Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., a nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), and BY22-020 (a product of Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., a product obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid isoparaffin). (Cationic emulsion containing the solution obtained by diluting high-polymerized dimethicone with low-viscosity silicone), KM902 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., non-ionic emulsion of high-polymerized dimethicone), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., cationic emulsion containing the solution obtained by diluting high-polymerized dimethicone with low-viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., cationic emulsion containing the solution obtained by diluting high-polymerized dimethicone with low-viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., non-ionic emulsion containing the solution obtained by diluting high-polymerized dimethicone with low-viscosity silicone), EMU101 (Momentive Examples of such emulsions include XS65-B3803 (a product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc., a non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (a product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc., a non-ionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with low viscosity silicone), and DC 7-3100 (a product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone Co., Ltd.).
[0138] The polyalkylaryl siloxane may be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxane and linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxane.
[0139] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products commercially available under the following trade names: RHODIA SILBIONE® fluids 70 641 series, RHODIA RHODORSIL® fluids 70 633 series and 763 series; Phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the reference name DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID; BAYER PK series silicones, such as PK20 products; PN series and PH series silicones manufactured by BAYER, such as PN1000 products and PH1000 products, and Some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0140] Organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above that contain within their structure at least one organofunctional moiety or group, either directly attached or attached through a hydrocarbon group.
[0141] Organo-modified silicones include, for example: C6~C 24 Polyorganosiloxanes containing polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy moieties, optionally containing alkyl moieties, such as dimethicone copolyols sold under the trade names DC 1248 and DC Q2-5220 by DOW CORNING, as well as SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 fluids sold by UNION CARBIDE, and Q2 5200 by DOW CORNING (C 12 ) a product called alkyl-methicone copolyol; polyorganosiloxanes containing alkoxylated moieties, such as the products sold under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by the company SWS SILICONES and under the trade names ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxylated moieties, such as, for example, polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functional groups, as described in French Patent Application Publication No. FR-A-85 163 34; Polyorganosiloxanes containing acyloxyalkyl moieties, such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; Polyorganosiloxanes containing anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, such as the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, sold by Chisso Corporation, and polyorganosiloxanes containing anionic moieties of carboxyl alkyl, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; polyorganosiloxanes containing 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonates and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfates, such as the products sold under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; Polyorganosiloxanes containing acrylic moieties, for example the products sold under the names VS80 and VS70 by the company 3M, and Polyorganosiloxanes containing oxazoline moieties:
[0142] [ka]
[0143] For example, silicones containing one or two oxazoline groups, such as poly(2-methyloxazoline-b-dimethylsiloxane-b-2-methyloxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethylsiloxane). Products sold by Kao Corporation under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 may also be used.
[0144] Polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, such as those sold under the trade name Dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series fluids marketed by RHODIA.
[0145] When the silicone oil is non-volatile, it may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and organomodified polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0146] It is preferred that the silicone oil is selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing linear or cyclic silicone chains that are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane; and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol.
[0147] As silicone oils, it is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone.A non-limiting example of such a combination is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, for example sold under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0148] (c) The degree of polymerization of the silicone is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000.
[0149] In one preferred embodiment, the (c) silicone is selected from amino-modified silicones.
[0150] According to the present invention, the term "amino-modified silicone" or aminosilicone, or amodimethicone, denotes any silicone that contains at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium, more particularly at least one primary amine.
[0151] Among the aminosilicones that can be used in the present invention, the following can be mentioned: (i) a polysiloxane corresponding to formula (c):
[0152] [ka]
[0153] (wherein x' and y' are independently integers such that the sum of x' and y' is less than 2,000); (ii) an aminosilicone corresponding to formula (B): R' a G (3-a) -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' (2-b) ) m -O-SiG (3-a') R' a (B) {in formula: G independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or a C1-C8 alkyl group, such as methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group, such as methoxy; a and a' are independently the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, specifically 0; b is 0 or 1, specifically 1; m and n are numbers whose sum (n+m) is in the range of 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 50 to 150; n can be a number from 0 to less than 1,999, specifically 49 to 149; m can be a number from 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 1 to 10; R' is independently a group of the formula -C q H 2q L, wherein q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is one of the following groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2 -N(R”')2 -N + (R”)3A - -N + H(R”)2A - -N + H2(R”) A - -NR”-QN + R”H2A - -NR”-QN + (R”)2H A - -NR”-QN + (R”)3A - (In the formula, R″ is independently hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, such as a C1-C 20 represents an alkyl group, Q is a linear or branched C r H 2r group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4, A - represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, specifically a halide ion such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. wherein R represents a monovalent group having an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the group consisting of:
[0154] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicones", having the formula (C):
[0155] [ka]
[0156] where n and m have the meanings given in formula B above.
[0157] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition are represented by silicones having the following formula (D) or (E):
[0158] [ka]
[0159] (In the formula: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) can range from 1 to 1,000, specifically 50 to 250, more specifically 100 to 200; n can represent a number from 0 to 999, specifically 49 to 249, more specifically 125 to 175; m can represent a number from 1 to 1,000, specifically 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5; R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydroxy group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, and in the formula, at least one of the R1-R3 groups represents an alkoxy group.
[0160] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
[0161] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0162] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 230,000, more specifically 3,500 to 150,000.
[0163] [ka]
[0164] (In the formula: p and q are numbers whose sum (p+q) is in the range of 1 to 1,000, particularly 50 to 350, more particularly 150 to 250; p can be a number from 0 to 999, particularly 49 to 349, more particularly 159 to 239; q can be a number from 1 to 1,000, particularly 1 to 10, more particularly 1 to 5; R1 and R2 independently represent a hydroxy group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the R1 or R2 groups represents an alkoxy group.
[0165] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
[0166] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and is more particularly equal to 1:0.95.
[0167] The mass average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 200,000, more specifically 5,000 to 100,000, and even more specifically 10,000 to 50,000.
[0168] The commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may contain in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure differs from formula (D) or (E).
[0169] A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (D) is sold under the name Belsil ADM 652 by Wacker.
[0170] A product containing aminosilicone having structure (E) is sold under the name Fluid WR 1300® by Wacker.
[0171] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition are represented by the following formula (F):
[0172] [ka]
[0173] (In the formula: m and n are numbers whose sum (n+m) is in the range of 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 50 to 150; n can be a number from 0 to less than 1,999, specifically 49 to 149; m can be a number from 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 1 to 10; A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.
[0174] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000, and more specifically 3,500 to 200,000.
[0175] A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.
[0176] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by formula (G):
[0177] [ka]
[0178] (In the formula: m and n are numbers whose sum (n+m) is in the range of 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 50 to 150; n can be a number from 0 to less than 1,999, specifically 49 to 149; m can be a number from 1 to less than 2,000, specifically 1 to 10; A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.
[0179] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones is preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000,000, and more specifically 1,000 to 200,000.
[0180] An example of a silicone having this formula is DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning. (iii) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):
[0181] [ka]
[0182] (In the formula: R5 is independently a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, specifically C1-C 18 Alkyl group or C2-C 18 represents an alkenyl group, for example methyl; R6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group linked to Si through a SiC bond, specifically a C1-C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C1-C 18 For example, a C1-C8 alkyleneoxy group. Q - is an anion such as a halide ion, specifically a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt (e.g., acetate), r represents the average statistic value between 2 and 20, specifically between 2 and 8; s represents the average statistic between 20 and 200, specifically between 20 and 50).
[0183] Such aminosilicones are described in more detail in US Pat. No. 4,185,087. (iv) a quaternary ammonium silicone having the formula (I):
[0184] [ka]
[0185] (In the formula: R7 is independently a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, specifically C1-C 18 Alkyl groups, C2-C 18 represents an alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, e.g. methyl, R6 is a divalent hydrocarbon group linked to Si through a SiC bond, specifically a C1-C 18 Alkylene group or divalent C1-C 18 For example, a C1-C8 alkyleneoxy group. R8 is independently a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, specifically C1 to C 18 Alkyl groups, C2-C 18 represents an alkenyl group or a -R6-NHCOR7 group, X - is an anion such as a halide ion, specifically a chloride ion, or an organic acid salt (e.g., acetate), r represents the average statistic value between 2 and 200, specifically between 5 and 100).
[0186] These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974. (v) an aminosilicone having the formula (J):
[0187] [ka]
[0188] (In the formula: R1, R2, R3, and R4 each independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; R5 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; where x is selected so that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. (vi) Type (AB) n A multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicone, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
[0189] The silicone is preferably composed of repeat units having the following general formula: [-(SiMeO) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMeO) x SiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -] (In the formula: a is an integer of 1 or more, preferably in the range of 5 to 200, more particularly in the range of 10 to 100; b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000; R″ is a hydrogen atom or methyl; R is independently a divalent linear or branched C-C alkyl group that optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen. 12 represents a hydrocarbon-based group, preferably R independently represents an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group, preferentially R independently represents a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group, R' is independently a divalent linear or branched C-C alkyl group that optionally contains one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen. 12R' represents a hydrocarbon-based group, preferably R' represents an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group, preferentially R' represents -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0190] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol %, more particularly between 70 and 85 mol %, of the total mass of the silicone.
[0191] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% dipropylene glycol solution, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0192] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
[0193] Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 and Silsoft A+ by the company Momentive. (vii) alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the following formula (K') and formula (K):
[0194] [ka]
[0195] (In the formula, R, R', and R" each independently represent a C1 to C4 alkyl group or a hydroxy group; A represents a C3 alkylene group, and m and n are such that the sum of m+n is less than about 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000;
[0196] [ka]
[0197] (In the formula, x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y is in the range of 1 to less than 2,000, preferably, x is in the range of 10 to less than 1,500, particularly, 100 to 1,000, and preferably, y is in the range of 1 to 100; R1 and R2 are preferably identical and are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; A represents a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0198] Preferably, A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms, and preferably A is branched.
[0199] Mention may in particular be made of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0200] Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
[0201] Preferentially, the silicone is of formula (K), in which: x is in the range of 10 to 2,000, particularly 100 to 1,000; y is in the range of 1 to 100; A contains 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; more particularly A is selected from the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R1 and R2 are independently a linear, saturated alkyl group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms, specifically selected from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups, and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are selected from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0202] A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
[0203] Mention may in particular be made of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by the company Momentive.
[0204] The aminosilicones of the present disclosure may also be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups at the ends of the chains or on the side chains, for example aminopropyl end groups or on side chain groups, examples being those of formula (A), (B) or (C):
[0205] [ka]
[0206] In formula (A), the value of n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, more preferably less than 1,000. Examples of aminosilicones (A) that may be mentioned are those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.
[0207] In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, more preferably less than 1,000. Examples of silicones (B) that may be mentioned are those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest, and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
[0208] In formula (C), the value of n is less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500 and more preferably less than 1,000. Mention may be made, as examples of silicones (C), of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0209] Preferably, the aminosilicone according to the present invention is aminodimethicone. In one embodiment, the aminosilicone is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.
[0210] Aminosilicones suitable for use according to the invention have a viscosity of 5×10 at 25° C. -6 ~2.5m 2 / sec, e.g. 1×10 -5 ~1m 2 Examples of suitable aminosilicones include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched aminosilicones having viscosities in the range of 1 / sec.
[0211] The silicone used in the present invention can also be silicone gum.The term "silicone gum" as used herein means polyorganosiloxanes with a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 200,000 to 2,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oil, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oil, isoparaffin, methylene chloride, pentane or a mixture thereof, which can have, for example, one of the following structures: Examples include: polydimethylsiloxane, poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (vinylhydrogenosiloxane)], poly[(dihydrogenodimethylsiloxane) / (divinylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)], poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)], and poly[(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)].
[0212] The silicone can be used as such, or in the form of a solution in an organic solvent, or else in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion. Preferably, the silicone is in the form of an aqueous emulsion. The term "aqueous emulsion" is intended to mean an oil-in-water emulsion in which the silicone copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase forming the continuous phase of the emulsion. This silicone emulsion can have a silicone droplet size or particle size ranging from 10 nm to 50 μm, preferably from 0.3 μm to 20 μm. The particle size is measured by laser granulometry. This emulsion can be stabilized with a conventional emulsifying system. The emulsifying system comprises surfactants that are conventionally used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants can be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof.
[0213] The (c) silicone may be present in an amount, relative to the total weight of composition B, of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more.
[0214] The (c) silicone may be present in an amount, relative to the total weight of composition B, of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less.
[0215] The amount of (c) silicone in composition B according to the present invention may be from 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably from 3% by mass to 20% by mass, and more preferably from 5% by mass to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of composition B.
[0216] Composition C Composition C of the present invention is (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol Includes.
[0217] Composition C includes either (c) a silicone or (d) a polyol. In a preferred embodiment, composition C includes both (c) a silicone and (d) a polyol.
[0218] (form) The composition C used according to the invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0219] Composition C used in the present invention may be in any herbal medicine form. For example, composition C used in the present invention may be in any common hair treatment form, such as cream, lotion, or gel.
[0220] Composition C according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cream.
[0221] (pH) The pH of composition C used in the present invention may be less than or equal to 8, preferably less than or equal to 7, more preferably less than or equal to 6, measured at 25°C.
[0222] The pH of composition C used in the present invention may be greater than or equal to 3, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5, more preferably greater than or equal to 4, measured at 25°C.
[0223] The pH of composition C used in the present invention may be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7, more preferably from 4 to 6, measured at 25°C.
[0224] The components of Composition C are described in detail below.
[0225] (c) Silicone The (c) silicone contained in composition C is the same as that described for composition B, and the same description can be applied to the (c) silicone in composition C.
[0226] The (c) silicone may be present in an amount, relative to the total weight of Composition C, of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more.
[0227] The (c) silicone may be present in an amount of less than or equal to 20 wt.%, preferably less than or equal to 15 wt.%, and more preferably less than or equal to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of Composition C.
[0228] The amount of (c) silicone in composition C according to the present invention may be from 1 mass % to 20 mass %, preferably from 3 mass % to 15 mass %, and more preferably from 5 mass % to 10 mass %, relative to the total mass of composition C.
[0229] (d) Polyol Composition C in the process according to the invention comprises at least one (d) polyol. Two or more polyols may be contained in composition C. Thus, a single type of (d) polyol or a combination of different types of (d) polyols may be used in composition C.
[0230] In one embodiment, composition C comprises at least two different types of (d) polyols.
[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule that contains at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0232] Polyols suitable for use in the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds bearing at least two --OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0233] Preferably, the (d) polyol that may be used in the composition A of the present invention is a linear or branched, preferably linear, alkyl type compound carrying at least two -OH functional groups, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functional groups, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functional groups, even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.
[0234] Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating composition C according to the invention are in particular those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0235] The polyols that may be used in composition C of the invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear, polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and may include, inter alia: diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and - Triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
[0236] In one embodiment of the present invention, (d) the polyol is selected from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0237] The (d) polyol may be present in an amount, relative to the total weight of composition C, of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more.
[0238] (d) The polyol may be present in an amount of less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of Composition C.
[0239] The amount of the (d) polyol in the composition C of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition C.
[0240] (Other Optional Ingredients) - water Each of the compositions A to C according to the present invention may or may not contain water.
[0241] Therefore, when each of compositions A to C according to the present invention contains water, the composition of the present invention is not anhydrous.
[0242] The amount of water in each of compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass or more, and more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0243] On the other hand, the amount of water in each of compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 98% by mass or less, preferably 95% by mass or less, and more preferably 90% by mass or less, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0244] The amount of water in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 20% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0245] - Alkaline agent Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not contain at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0246] In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0247] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The alkaline agent is preferably non-volatile. The inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0248] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As inorganic alkaline agents, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferred.
[0249] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0250] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamines containing one to three hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, the alkanolamines can be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0251] Diamines have the following structural formula (B):
[0252] [ka]
[0253] where W represents an alkylene, such as propylene, optionally substituted with hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl group; R a , R b , R c and R d represent independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group), which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0254] The amount of the alkaline agent in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0255] On the other hand, the amount of the alkaline agent in each of compositions A to C according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0256] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0257] (oil) Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not contain at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil may be used, or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0258] In one embodiment, compositions AC of the present invention all comprise at least one oil.
[0259] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in the form of a liquid, paste or solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). (g) As the oil, any oil commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0260] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil, such as a vegetable or animal oil, and an ester or ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0261] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0262] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0263] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0264] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0265] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0266] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoesters of monohydric alcohols, there may be mentioned ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0267] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids with non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0268] Mention may in particular be made of the following: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0269] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids of the above groups can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0270] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0271] Sugar esters of fatty acids are made by combining the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 These compounds, when unsaturated, may have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0272] The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0273] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, inter alia, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0274] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0275] One example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0276] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic acid / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicarbonate, and the like. Included are prilyl, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0277] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0278] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0279] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0280] The oil is preferably selected from polar oils, more preferably from ester oils, even more preferably from monoester oils.
[0281] The amount of oil in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0282] On the other hand, the amount of oil in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 20 mass % or less, preferably 15 mass % or less, and more preferably 10 mass % or less, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0283] Therefore, the amount of oil in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0284] (Fatty alcohol) Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not contain at least one aliphatic alcohol. A single type of aliphatic alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of aliphatic alcohols may be used in combination.
[0285] In one embodiment, each of Compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one aliphatic alcohol. In one embodiment, Compositions A to C of the present invention all comprise at least one aliphatic alcohol.
[0286] The term "aliphatic" as used herein refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched. Two or more aliphatic alcohols may be used in combination.
[0287] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, e.g., from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 24 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 24 alkenyl groups, R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0288] Non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0289] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0290] The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several types of fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture in a commercial product.
[0291] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0292] (h) The fatty alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol.
[0293] The amount of aliphatic alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, based on the total weight of each composition.
[0294] On the other hand, the amount of aliphatic alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 15% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0295] Therefore, the amount of aliphatic alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0296] (Nonionic surfactant) Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not contain at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may also be used in combination.
[0297] In one embodiment, each of Compositions A and B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0298] Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds in themselves or in themselves (see, for example, in this respect, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, Blackie & Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, the nonionic surfactants can be chosen, for example, from alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, which compounds can be ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolized and have at least one fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Mention can also be made of maltose derivatives. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides, for example containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides, for example containing 1.5 to 5, for example 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; glycerol (C6-C 24 ) Polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of alkyl polyglycosides; N-(C6-C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; (C 10 ~C 14 ) alkylamine oxide or N-(C 10 ~C 14 Also included, but are not limited to, are amine oxides such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0299] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants, the oxyalkylene units being more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
[0300] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned are: Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C 24 ) alkylphenols, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 alcohol, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C 30 Amides, Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 Esters of acids with monoalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycols; Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C 30 Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of acids with sorbitol, Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and Especially the condensation products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, either alone or in mixtures.
[0301] The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, more preferably between 1 and 20 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide.
[0302] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of ethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), monooxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0303] An example of a monooxyalkylenated fatty ester that may be mentioned is glycol distearate.
[0304] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohols), polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (esters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acids), and mixtures thereof.
[0305] Polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30Examples of the ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more especially those containing 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are ceteareth-2 to ceteareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are steareth-2 to steareth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names are isosteareth-2 to isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.
[0306] Polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C 30 Examples of ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol include the ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names oleth-2 to oleth-20), and mixtures thereof.
[0307] The non-ionic surfactant is preferably selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, even more preferably polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols.
[0308] The amount of nonionic surfactant in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1 mass % or more, preferably 0.25 mass % or more, and more preferably 0.5 mass % or more, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0309] On the other hand, the amount of the nonionic surfactant in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0310] Therefore, the amount of the nonionic surfactant in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.1 mass % to 15 mass %, preferably 0.25 mass % to 10 mass %, and more preferably 0.5 mass % to 5 mass %, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0311] - Monohydric alcohol Compositions A to C of the present invention may or may not contain at least one monohydric alcohol. A single type of monohydric alcohol may be used, but two or more different types of monohydric alcohols may also be used in combination.
[0312] In one embodiment, each of Compositions AC of the present invention contains at least one monohydric alcohol.
[0313] The monohydric alcohol, as used herein, may be a hydrophilic monohydric alcohol that is water soluble. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" is used herein to mean that the material is hydrophilic at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 "Soluble in water" means that the substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight (at 1 Pa) based on the total weight of water.
[0314] The monohydric alcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monohydric alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0315] In one embodiment, the monohydric alcohol may be an aliphatic monohydric alcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0316] The term "aliphatic monohydric alcohol" as used herein means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) functional group.
[0317] The aliphatic monohydric alcohol may be selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0318] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monohydric alcohol may be selected from linear aliphatic monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0319] The amount of monohydric alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, and more preferably 2% by mass or more, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0320] On the other hand, the amount of monohydric alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of each composition.
[0321] Therefore, the amount of monohydric alcohol in each of Compositions A to C of the present invention may be 0.5% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 2% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of each composition.
[0322] - Optional Ingredients Each of the compositions A to C of the present invention may also contain at least one other optional ingredient selected from, in particular, viscosity modifiers such as thickeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, polymers, especially conditioning polymers such as cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, contain some of the cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
[0323] The above optional ingredients can be present in normal amounts, which can be easily determined by one skilled in the art, and may be between 0.01% and 80% by weight of each ingredient in each of compositions A to C. One skilled in the art will carefully select the ingredients to be included in the composition and also their amounts so as not to harm the properties of the composition used in the present invention.
[0324] - Ammonia and thiol compounds The method according to the present invention preferably does not include application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratin fibers. Therefore, each of the compositions A to C preferably does not contain ammonia or a thiol compound. The term "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not contain a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.
[0325] In one embodiment, each of Compositions A to C of the present invention contains 1 mass % or less, more preferably 0.5 mass % or less, even more preferably 0.1 mass % or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, and in particular contains no ammonia or a thiol compound.
[0326] Due to the very low or no amount of ammonia and / or thiol compounds used, malodours during the process according to the invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0327] A thiol compound, as used herein, refers to a compound having at least one thiol (-SH) group.
[0328] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol monothiolactic acid; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, especially its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, especially its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; monothioglycerol and its derivatives, especially its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, especially its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, especially its s-alkyl derivatives, and salts thereof.
[0329] The above salts may include, for example, ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. The primary, secondary or tertiary amine may include, for example, monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0330] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercaptoalkylamides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid, and derivatives thereof; thiomalic acid; pantetheine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-0 514 282; (2 / 3) hydroxy-2 propyl thioglycolate; and hydroxy-2 methyl-1 ethyl thioglycolate based mixtures (67 / 33) as described in FR-A-2 679 448.
[0331] - Reducing and oxidizing agents The method according to the present invention preferably does not include the application of a reducing or oxidizing agent to the keratin fibers. Therefore, each of the compositions A to C preferably does not contain a reducing or oxidizing agent. The term "free of reducing or oxidizing agents" means that the composition does not contain a substantial amount of a reducing or oxidizing agent.
[0332] In one embodiment, each of Compositions A to C of the present invention contains 1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and in particular no reducing agent or oxidizing agent.
[0333] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. Thiol reducing agents are as described above.
[0334] Non-thiol reducing agent means herein a reducing agent that does not contain a thiol group. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. Non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite, and sulfites and bisulfites of metals, more preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, more preferably sodium sulfite and sodium bisulfite.
[0335] The oxidizing agent can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of generating hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from aqueous hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
[0336] {Optional step (v)} The method according to the invention may or may not comprise at least one additional step (v) for applying to the keratinous fibres at least one treatment composition other than compositions A to C. The treatment composition is described in detail below.
[0337] The process according to the invention may comprise one or more, preferably one or two, additional steps (v).
[0338] Application of the treatment composition may be carried out by any means, such as with a brush or comb.
[0339] The method according to the present invention may include step (v) before and / or after any of steps (i) to (iv), but preferably includes step (v) before and / or after steps (i) and / or (ii) and before step (iii).
[0340] Thus, for example, the method according to the present invention comprises steps (i) to (v) in the following order: - Process (v) → Process (i) → Process (ii) → Process (iii) → Process (iv), - Process (i) → Process (v) → Process (ii) → Process (iii) → Process (iv), - Process (i) → Process (ii) → Process (v) → Process (iii) → Process (iv), - Process (v) → Process (i) → Process (v) → Process (ii) → Process (iii) → Process (iv), - Process (v) → Process (ii) → Process (i) → Process (iii) → Process (iv), - Step (ii) → Step (v) → Step (i) → Step (iii) → Step (iv), - Step (ii) → Step (i) → Step (v) → Step (iii) → Step (iv), - Step (ii) → Step (v) → Step (i) → Step (v) → Step (iii) → Step (iv), or - may include the steps (v) → (ii) → (i) → (v) → (iii) → (iv), Step (iv) is optional.
[0341] After application of the treatment composition, the keratinous fibers may be left undisturbed for a particular length of time, if desired, typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0342] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 0.05 g to 0.5 g per 1 g of keratin fibers.
[0343] The treatment composition may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (v). In one embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention does not include a rinsing step after step (v).
[0344] (Treatment Composition) The form of the treatment compositions that can be used in the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; in the form of a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; in the form of an emulsion of the O / W, W / O or multiple type, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency (when the composition used in the present invention comprises at least one oil); in the form of a suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type, having a soft consistency; in the form of an aqueous gel or in the form of any other cosmetic preparation.
[0345] The pH of the treatment composition that can be used in the present invention may be from 1.5 to 7 at 25°C.
[0346] The formulation of the treatment composition is not particularly limited, and any treatment composition for keratin fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field can be used.
[0347] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one polyol, at least one vegetable oil, at least one organic acid, and / or at least one protein denaturant.
[0348] - Polyol The polyol contained in the treatment composition is the same as the (d) polyol described above, and the same description can be applied.
[0349] The amount of polyol in the treatment composition may be from 20% to 90% by mass, preferably from 35% to 80% by mass, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0350] - vegetable oil A single type of vegetable oil or a combination of different types of vegetable oils can be used in the treatment composition.
[0351] As used herein, "oil" means fatty compounds or substances in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25° C.). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, preferably non-volatile and polar.
[0352] For the purposes of this invention, a "polar oil" is an oil having a solubility parameter δ a is 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is intended to mean an oil that is other than the above.
[0353] In particular, "polar oil" is intended to mean an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed or even consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
[0354] The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol, Vol. 39, p. 105 (1967).
[0355] According to this Hansen space, - δ D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions, - δ p characterizes the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles, - δ h characterize specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, and donor / acceptor bonds) - δ a is determined by the following formula: δ a = (δ p 2 + δ h 2 ) 1 / 2 .
[0356] Parameter δ p , δ h , δ D and δ a is (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed as:
[0357] The term "vegetable oil" as used herein means oil of vegetable origin.
[0358] Vegetable oil can be a hydrocarbon-based oil.For the purpose of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.Hydrocarbon oil does not contain any silicon atoms.
[0359] Examples of vegetable oils include, but are not limited to, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, kukui oil, passionflower oil, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, mararrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's Wort oil, monoi oil, oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0360] The vegetable oil may contain at least one fatty acid. Thus, the vegetable oil may be a fatty acid blend vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may contain a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different types of fatty acids.
[0361] The term "fatty acid" as used herein means a monofunctional carboxylic acid having an aliphatic chain.
[0362] The fatty acids may be linear or branched, in one preferred embodiment of the invention the fatty acids are linear.
[0363] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from unsaturated fatty acids having one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, more preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.
[0364] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include fatty acids having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0365] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably monounsaturated fatty acids.
[0366] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, which fatty acids are saturated or monounsaturated.
[0367] The fatty acid may be represented by the following formula (I): RCOOH (I) (In the formula: R is linear or branched, preferably linear C8-C 28 Alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C 10 ~C24 An alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably C 12 ~C 22 R is an alkyl group or an alkenyl group. R may contain 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably 1 carbon-carbon double bond.
[0368] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0369] Preferably, the fatty acids are selected from linoleic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0370] In one particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the vegetable oil is selected from avocado oil, jojoba oil, and combinations thereof.
[0371] The fatty acids may be present in the vegetable oil in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the vegetable oil.
[0372] In one embodiment of the invention, the vegetable oil comprises at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, preferably at least one linear monounsaturated fatty acid having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0373] The monounsaturated fatty acids may be present in the vegetable oil in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the vegetable oil.
[0374] The linear monounsaturated fatty acids may be present in the vegetable oil in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the vegetable oil.
[0375] The vegetable oil may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0376] The vegetable oil may be present in an amount of up to 30% by weight, preferably up to 20% by weight, more preferably up to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0377] The amount of vegetable oil in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 90% by mass, preferably from 3% to 70% by mass, and more preferably from 5% to 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the treatment composition.
[0378] - organic acids A single type of organic acid or a combination of different types of organic acids can be used in the treatment composition.
[0379] The organic acid is different from the above-mentioned (a) compound and (b) compound.
[0380] The organic acid may be selected from those having one or more acidic groups selected from the group consisting of, for example, carboxylic acid groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, phosphonic acid groups, phosphoric acid groups, phenolic hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the organic acid is selected from those having one or more carboxylic acid groups and / or phosphoric acid groups.
[0381] In one embodiment of the invention, the organic acid has at least one carboxylic acid group.
[0382] In one embodiment, the organic acid is selected from carboxylic acids. Non-limiting examples of useful carboxylic acids can include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, gluconic acid, propionic acid, aconitic acid, and EDTA, and combinations thereof.
[0383] In one embodiment of the present invention, the carboxylic acid may contain 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 7 carbon atoms.
[0384] In one embodiment of the invention, the organic acid is selected from phosphoric acid. Non-limiting examples of useful phosphates include phytic acid, inositol triphosphate, inositol pentaphosphate, tripolyphosphate, and adenosine triphosphate, and combinations thereof.
[0385] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid is selected from monocarboxylic acids.Suitable examples of monocarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, aryl acids, (hetero)cyclic acids, alkyl acids, and / or aliphatic monocarboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, mono-, di-, or trichloroacetic acid, glycolic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, pyruvic acid, propionic acid, D-gluconic acid, and D-galacturonic acid.
[0386] In one embodiment, the organic acid may have two or more acidic groups. Organic acids of this type may include those with two acidic groups, those with three acidic groups, and those with four or more acidic groups.
[0387] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid having two or more acidic groups may be a polycarboxylic acid.
[0388] Polycarboxylic acids having two or more carboxylic acid groups can include dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, and azelaic acid.
[0389] Polycarboxylic acids having three or more carboxylic acid groups include tricarboxylic acids such as citric acid and aconitic acid.
[0390] Polycarboxylic acids having four or more carboxylic acid groups include tetracarboxylic acids such as EDTA, pentacarboxylic acids, and hexacarboxylic acids.
[0391] In one embodiment of the present invention, the organic acid may be selected from hydroxy acids.
[0392] The hydroxy acid may comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid containing at least one hydroxyl functional group. The hydroxy acid may be selected from α- and β-hydroxy acids. For example, the hydroxy acid may be an α-hydroxy acid. The α- and β-positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functional groups occupies an α- or β-position with respect to at least one of the carboxyl functional groups of the acid, i.e., at least one of the hydroxyl functional groups is bonded to either the carbon bearing the hydroxyl functional group or to the carbon adjacent to the carbon bearing the carboxyl functional group, respectively. The acid may be present in a form selected from the free acid, its associated salts (e.g., salts with organic bases and alkali metals), and optionally the corresponding lactide (i.e., the form obtained by self-esterification of multiple molecules), depending, for example, on the final pH to be given to the composition.
[0393] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" as used herein means an acid, such as a carboxylic or phosphoric acid, having at least one hydroxyl group on adjacent (alpha) carbon atoms.
[0394] Alpha-hydroxy acids can be represented by the following chemical formula: (R a )(R b )C(OH)COOH (In the formula, R a and R b is H, F, Cl, Br, I, a saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomer, linear or branched or cyclic alkyl or aralkyl radical having 1 to 7 carbon atoms, and R a and Rb may contain OH, CHO, COOH, and alkoxyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms).
[0395] R a and R b For , typical alkyl, aralkyl, and alkoxyl groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and pentyl.
[0396] The alpha-hydroxy acid may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0397] It is preferred that the hydroxy acid has two or more carboxylic acid groups, more preferably two or three carboxylic acid groups.
[0398] It is also preferred that the hydroxy acid has one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.
[0399] It is also preferred that the hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0400] The organic acid may be selected from neutral or acidic amino acids.
[0401] The organic acids are preferably selected from "neutral" or "acidic" amino acids. The term "neutral" is intended to mean amino acids or aminosulfonic acids having a pH of between 5 and 7, inclusive, in water at room temperature (25° C.). The term "acidic" is intended to mean amino acids or aminosulfonic acids having a pH of less than 6 in water at room temperature.
[0402] An amino acid may contain up to the number of amino groups equal to or less than the number of acid groups.
[0403] The amino acids may be selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, phenylalanine, isoleucine, leucine, proline, glutamine, serine, threonine, valine, tryptophan, and tyrosine; oligomers of amino acids, such as glycylglycine; and mixtures thereof.
[0404] In a preferred embodiment, the amino acids may be selected from acidic amino acids such as glutamic acid, aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0405] In another preferred embodiment, the organic acid is selected from aliphatic monocarboxylic acids other than glyoxylic acid; hydroxy acids, in particular α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid, phytic acid; and acidic amino acids, such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0406] The organic acid of the present invention may be in the form of a salt.The term "salt" herein means the salt formed by adding a suitable base to an organic acid.The salt can include metal salts, for example, salts with alkali metals such as Na and K, salts with alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0407] In a preferred embodiment, the organic acid is not in the form of a salt.
[0408] The amount of organic acid in the treatment composition of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by mass, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the treatment composition.
[0409] - Protein Denaturants A single type of protein denaturant or a combination of different types of protein denaturants can be used in the treatment composition.
[0410] As used herein, a "protein denaturant" refers to a compound that has the function of loosening the higher-order structure of a protein and dissociating hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions between polypeptide chains. The protein denaturant may be a protein-denaturing osmolyte / chaotropic agent.
[0411] The protein denaturant is different from the above-mentioned compounds (a) and (b).
[0412] The protein denaturant of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has the functions described above, and can be selected from urea and its urea derivatives; guanidine and its salts, such as guanidine chloride; salts that denature proteins, such as perchlorates, for example lithium perchlorate, lithium acetate, magnesium chloride, KCl, LiCl, NH4Cl, (NH4)2SO4; surfactants that denature proteins, preferably anionic surfactants, for example sodium dodecyl sulfate and lithium dodecyl sulfate; and organic solvents, such as ethanol, n-butanol, 2-propanol, and phenol.
[0413] In one preferred embodiment, the protein denaturant is selected from urea and urea derivatives.
[0414] The term "urea derivative" refers to any compound, apart from urea (CO(NH2)2) itself, that contains in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. the following unit:
[0415] [ka]
[0416] Preferably, the (a) compound is selected from compounds of formula (I) or (II), a salt thereof, or a hydrate thereof:
[0417] [ka]
[0418] [In formula: R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent: (i) a hydrogen atom, or (ii) A linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 lower alkyl or alkenyl group, a C1-C5 alkoxy group, a C6-C 18 Aryl groups, 5-8 membered heterocyclic groups (these groups include the following groups: hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C 18 optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxamido and N-methylcarboxamido; At this time, it is understood that: - when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may represent a carboxamido, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6) alkylcarbonyl, such as acetyl, or a (C1-C6) alkoxycarbonyl group, such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl, optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl group; - when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl group and R4 may represent an acetyl group; - when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 together with the nitrogen atom which carries them can form a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; - R1 and R2, and also R3 and R4, together with the nitrogen atom which holds them, can form an imidazole ring; R5 and R6, independently of one another, represent: (iii) a hydrogen atom, or (ii) A linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 lower alkyl group, an acyl group or an alkenyl group, a C1-C5 alkoxy group, a C6-C 18Aryl groups, 5-8 membered heterocyclic groups (these groups are selected from the following groups: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C 18 optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxamido and N-methylcarboxamido; - A is a group of: CH2-CH2, CH=CH, CH2-CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH=C(CH3)-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH-CH2 -NH, CO-CH(CH3)-CH2, CO-CH2-CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH2, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH3), CO-C(NH2)=CH, CO-C(CH3)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH].
[0419] Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the following: - urea, - methylurea, - Ethyl urea, - propyl urea, - n-butyl urea, - sec-butyl urea, - isobutyl urea, tert-butyl urea, - cyclopentyl urea, - ethoxyurea, - hydroxyethyl urea, - N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, - N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, - N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, - N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, - benzyl urea, - N-carbamoylmaleamide, - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, - piperidine carboxamide, - 1,2,4-triazol-4-yl urea, - hydantoic acid, - methyl allophanate, - ethyl allophanate, - acetyl urea, - Hydroxyethylene urea, - 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, - Diallyl urea, - Chloroethylurea, - N,N-dimethylurea, - N,N-diethylurea, - N,N-dipropyl urea, - cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, - 1,3-dimethylurea, - 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, - 1,3-dipropyl urea, - ethyl-3-propyl urea, - sec-butyl-3-methylurea, - isobutyl-3-methylurea, - cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, - N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, - Trimethylurea, - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, - Tetramethylurea, and - Benzyl urea.
[0420] Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the following: - Parabanic acid, - 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, - Barbiturates, - Uracil, - 1-methyluracil, - 3-methyluracil, - 5-methyluracil, - 1,3-dimethyluracil, - 5-azauracil, - 6-azauracil, - 5-fluorouracil, - 6-fluorouracil, - 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil, - 5-aminouracil, - 6-aminouracil, - 6-amino-1-methyluracil, - 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil, - 4-chlorouracil, - 5-chlorouracil, - 5,6-dihydrouracil, - 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil, - 2-imidazolidone, - 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, - 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, - 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, - 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, - 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, - 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, - 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, - 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, - 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine, - 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one, - Hydantoin, - 1-methylhydantoin, - 5-methylhydantoin, - 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, - 5-ethylhydantoin, - 5-n-propylhydantoin, - 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, - 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, - 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, - 1-arylhydantoin, - 1-aminohydantoin, - hydantoin-5-acetic acid, - 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, - hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione, - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, - 1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one, - 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine, - Urazol, - 4-methylurasol, - orotic acid, - dihydroxyorotic acid, - 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, - 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, - 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, - 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, - cyanuric acid, - 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, - 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone, - 5-hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, - 6-azathymine, - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, and - Alloxan monohydrate.
[0421] Preferentially, the protein denaturant is selected from urea and hydroxyethylurea, more preferably urea.
[0422] The amount of protein denaturant in the treatment composition of the present invention may be 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably 1% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the treatment composition.
[0423] - water The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.
[0424] The amount of water in the treatment composition may be 20% by mass to 98% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 95% by mass, and more preferably 40% by mass to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0425] The treatment composition may also include at least one other optional ingredient selected in particular from thickeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, antioxidants, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, plasticizers or coalescers, fillers, emulsifiers, conditioning polymers, especially cationic polymers, fragrances, silanes, crosslinkers, and surfactants, including anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, include some of the cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
[0426] The above optional components can be present in the composition in conventional amounts that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and can be between 0.01% and 80% by weight for each component. Those skilled in the art will carefully select the components to be included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not impair the properties of the composition used in the present invention.
[0427] [kit] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a combination of compositions A to C according to the invention. A treatment composition may also be included in this combination.
[0428] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). Composition A comprising: (c) at least one silicone Composition B comprising: (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol Composition C comprising The present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
[0429] In the kit according to the invention, compositions A to C may be supplied separately, for example in different containers, or, if the kit includes a treatment composition, this may be supplied separately, for example in different containers.
[0430] The kit according to the invention may further comprise at least one heater, such as an iron or curlers, capable of applying to the keratinous fibres a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C, more preferably more than 150°C.
[0431] The heater in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably 150° C. This temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.
[0432] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or heated curler, may be used as said iron or curler in a kit according to the invention.
[0433] The heater is preferably a heating iron or curler as described above in the section entitled "Method". Also, details of the compositions used in the kit according to the invention are described above in the section entitled "Method".
[0434] [use] The present invention may relate to the use of a combination of compositions A to C of the invention for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres such as hair. Also, if the kit comprises a treatment composition, this may be supplied separately, for example in different containers.
[0435] The present invention therefore also relates to the use of a combination of compositions A to C for reshaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibres such as hair, comprising: Composition A is (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylates, glyoxylate esters, glyoxylate amides, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, different from the compound (a). Including, Composition B is (c) at least one silicone Including, Composition C is (c) at least one silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol It also relates to use, including
[0436] The use according to the invention can be carried out by heating the keratin fibres, preferably the hair. In the use according to the invention, the heating can be carried out after the compositions A and B have been applied to the keratin fibres.
[0437] The heating is not limited as long as the keratin fibers can be heated to a temperature of more than 50° C., preferably more than 100° C., more preferably 150° C. The temperature may be less than 250° C., preferably less than 240° C., more preferably less than 230° C. Thus, the temperature may be more than 50° C. and less than 250° C., preferably more than 100° C. and less than 240° C., more preferably more than 150° C. and less than 230° C.
[0438] Details of compositions for use according to the present invention are set forth above in the section entitled "Methods." EXAMPLES
[0439] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0440] [Preparation] Compositions A to C were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 to Table 3. All component amounts are based on the "weight percent" of the raw materials. In composition B, Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active material) sold by Wacker and Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% active material) sold by Wacker were used for amodimethicone.
[0441] [Table 1]
[0442] [Table 2]
[0443] [Table 3]
[0444] (Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1) Example 1 1 g of Chinese curly hair swatches (Type 3) measuring 27 cm in length were shampooed with 0.07 g of routine shampoo. The formula for the routine shampoo is shown in Table 4 below. All values for component amounts are based on "wt %" of the ingredients. The hair swatches were rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0445] [Table 4]
[0446] An amount of 0.6 g of composition A was applied to wet hair swatches (step (i)). The hair swatches were left at room temperature (25° C.) for 10 minutes. The hair swatches were then thoroughly rinsed with tap water.
[0447] An amount of 0.25 g of Composition B was then applied to the hair swatch (step (ii)). The hair swatch was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0448] An amount of 0.03 g of Composition C was then applied to the hair swatch (step (iii)). The hair swatch was then dried with a hair dryer without rinsing.
[0449] The hair swatches were subjected to straightening by 3 strokes using a hair straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2 from Hakko Co., Ltd., Japan) at 180° C., 4 seconds / stroke (step (iv)).
[0450] Example 2 Example 1 was repeated, but in addition to the process steps according to Example 1, hair swatches were pre-treated (step (v)) with the following hair treatment composition prior to step (i) of the process according to Example 1. The formula of the hair treatment composition is given in Table 5 below. All values of the amounts of components are based on "% by weight" of the ingredients.
[0451] In particular, after shampooing with a routine shampoo, 0.2 g of the hair treatment composition was applied to the hair swatch (step (v)) prior to step (i) of the method according to Example 1. Step (i) was then carried out without rinsing prior to step (i).
[0452] In this example, the hair treatment composition was used as a pre-treatment to Composition A.
[0453] [Table 5]
[0454] Example 3 Example 1 was repeated, but in addition to the process steps according to Example 1, hair swatches were treated (step (v)) with the following hair treatment composition between steps (i) and (ii) of the process according to Example 1. The formulation of the hair treatment composition is the same as that shown in Table 5 above.
[0455] In particular, 0.2 g of the hair treatment composition was applied to the hair swatch (step (v)) after rinsing off composition A according to the method of Example 1. The hair treatment composition was then rinsed off, followed by step (ii) of the method according to Example 1.
[0456] In this example, the hair treatment composition was used as a post-treatment to Composition A.
[0457] Comparative Example 1 The sample according to Comparative Example 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that compositions B and C were not applied, and therefore steps (ii) and (iii) were not carried out in this method.
[0458] The methods according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 are summarized in Tables 9 and 10 below.
[0459] [evaluation] The following evaluations were carried out:
[0460] (Hair straightening effect) After each treated hair swatch was kept at room temperature (25°C) for 3 hours, the straightening level of the treated hair swatches was visually evaluated based on three aspects: "straightening performance", "frizz level", and "volume" under the following criteria: 5: Excellent 4: Very good 3: Good 2: Normal 1: Defective
[0461] (Sensory evaluation) The treated hair swatches were rated for "squeakiness," "ease of combing," and "ease of ironing" according to the following scale:
[0462] - Creaking sensation For each method, a trained person rubbed the wet hair between his fingers during the final rinsing step before blow drying and hot ironing. The friction felt and the sound produced were rated under the following criteria: 4: No squeaking sensation 3: Less creaking 2: There is a slight creaking sensation 1: Very squeaky
[0463] - Easy to comb A trained person combed hair swatches treated with each method and rated for resistance to combing under the following criteria: 4. You can comb your hair with almost no friction 3: Low friction for easy combing 2: Combing is difficult and causes a lot of friction 1: Can't comb
[0464] - Easy to use a hair iron In step (iv) of each method, the sliding resistance of the iron when ironing the hair was evaluated by a trained person under the following criteria: 4: Ironing is smooth without resistance 3: Ironing is easy to use as usual 2: Ironing takes effort and the tip of the iron gets caught 1: It is very difficult to iron evenly and the iron gets stuck frequently
[0465] The results are shown in Table 9 below.
[0466] [Table 6]
[0467] (Persistence) The permanence of the effect on the hair swatches was evaluated. In particular, the permanence of the "straightening effect" and "ease of combing" was evaluated for the hair swatches after one shampooing with the routine shampoo composition. The formula of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 4 above. After shampooing, the hair swatches were rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hair dryer (until dry, approximately 90 seconds).
[0468] The "straightening effect" and "ease of combing" were measured in the same manner as above, and the evaluation was performed according to the following criteria.
[0469] - Straightening effect 5: Excellent 4: Very good 3: Good 2: Normal 1: Defective
[0470] - Easy to comb 4. You can comb your hair with almost no friction 3: Low friction for easy combing 2: Combing is difficult and causes a lot of friction 1: Can't comb
[0471] The results are shown in Table 10 below.
[0472] [Table 7]
[0473] As can be seen from the results in Table 9 (Table 6), it is clear that the method according to the embodiment including steps (i) to (iii) provided keratin fibers with improved hair straightening effects and good sensory effects such as "squeakiness," "ease of combing," and "ease of ironing." Furthermore, as can be seen from the results in Table 10 (Table 7), the method according to the embodiment provided keratin fibers with the durability of the effects of the present invention.
Claims
1. A method for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably straightening them, (i) A step of applying composition A to the keratin fiber, wherein composition A is (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof, and (b) At least one compound different from the compound in (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Processes including, (ii) A step of applying composition B to the keratin fibers, wherein composition B is (c) at least one type of silicone Processes including, (iii) A step of applying composition C to the keratin fibers, wherein composition C is (c) at least one type of silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol Processes including, (iv) optionally, a step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, more preferably above 150°C, A method comprising step (i) followed by step (ii), or step (ii) followed by step (i), then step (iii) followed by an optional step (iv).
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (a) in composition A is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of composition A.
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of compound (b) in composition A is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of composition A.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of compound (a) contained in composition A to compound (b) is in the range of 1:1 to 10:1, preferably 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably 2:1 to 5:
1.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the (c) silicone in composition B is selected from amino-modified silicones.
7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (c) silicone in composition B is 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of composition B.
8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the (c) silicone in the composition C is selected from amino-modified silicones.
9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (c) silicone in composition C is 1% to 20% by mass, preferably 3% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of composition C.
10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (d) polyol in composition C is 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably 1% to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of composition C.
11. The method according to claim 1, wherein composition C is a leave-on type cosmetic composition.
12. The method according to claim 1, wherein the pH of composition A is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.
13. The method according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fiber is not treated with ammonia or a thiol compound.
14. The method according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fiber is not subjected to a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent.
15. A kit for reshaping keratin fibers such as hair, preferably straightening them, (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvate, glyoxylic acid salt, glyoxylic acid ester, glyoxylic acid amide, and mixtures thereof, and (b) At least one compound different from the compound in (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Composition A, which includes, (c) at least one type of silicone Composition B containing, (c) at least one type of silicone, and / or (d) at least one polyol Composition C containing, A kit that includes this.