Cosmetic or dermatological use of Pyracantha fortuneana extract
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTIONS FRANCE SAS
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-03
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-09
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic and dermatological compositions fail to effectively prevent and reduce the prominence and visibility of skin pores, as well as maintain skin color uniformity, due to the lack of suitable active agents that address these issues.
The use of Pyracantha fortuneana extract, which is formulated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions, topically applied to reduce pore visibility and maintain skin color uniformity by tightening pores and improving skin texture.
The Pyracantha fortuneana extract effectively reduces pore visibility by at least 3-4% and improves skin color uniformity by at least 10-15% over 56 days, as demonstrated by image analysis, indicating its efficacy in addressing unaesthetic skin pore symptoms.
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana in particular in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, in particular dermatological compositions, for preventing and / or reducing the manifestation of unaesthetic and / or undesirable and / or unpleasant skin pore symptoms.
Background Art
[0002] Skin pores are openings through which secretions from sebaceous glands and sweat glands flow out. Hair follicles and sebaceous glands are included in the pores. Various external factors such as ultraviolet irradiation, heat, environmental pollution, as well as unhygienic conditions or an unbalanced diet, and simply skin aging can also contribute to the pores becoming enlarged and resulting in an ugly skin that has lost its smoothness. The pores become prominent, giving an unaesthetic impression. In addition, internal factors such as male hormones and growth factors regulate the activity of sebaceous glands and sweat glands.
[0003] Pyracantha fortuneana, native to China, is an evergreen shrub belonging to the Rosaceae family. The fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana have been used in traditional medicine as a tonic effective against disorders of the digestive and immune systems (Li et al., Food Chemistry 366, 2022, review).
[0004] Pyracantha fortuneana has been used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals as an anti-inflammatory agent, antioxidant or whitening agent in particular due to its various biological effects.
[0005] Chinese Patent Application Publication No. 105362206 describes the use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana fruits as an antioxidant and anti-aging active agent in cosmetic compositions.
[0006] Chinese Patent Application Publication No. 107375095 relates to the use of Pyracantha fortuneana fruit extract as a whitening and moisturizing active agent in cosmetic compositions.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0007]
Patent Document 1
Patent Document 2
Non-Patent Documents
[0008]
Non-Patent Document 1
Summary of the Invention
Means for Solving the Problems
[0009] Particularly surprisingly, the applicant has found that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana has the property of preventing and / or reducing the appearance of unsightly and / or undesirable and / or unpleasant skin pore symptoms, particularly reducing the prominence of skin pores and / or preventing the increase in the prominence of skin pores and / or maintaining and / or improving the uniformity of skin color.
[0010] The extract according to the present invention also has the advantage that it can be easily formulated and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is a locally acceptable active ingredient for the skin that presents no allergic risk.
[0011] The first subject of the present invention is the advantageous, preferably topical cosmetic use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana for preventing and / or reducing the appearance of unaesthetic and / or undesirable and / or unpleasant skin pores.
[0012] The term "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic use, i.e., one that is not intended for therapeutic use and is applied to a "healthy" part of the body, in particular to a "healthy" area of the skin.
[0013] The term "healthy skin" or "healthy tissue" means a part of the skin, tissue or epidermis to which the extract according to the invention or a composition containing said extract is applied and which is said by a dermatologist to be "non-pathological", i.e., free of infections, scars, diseases or skin disorders such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or wounds or injuries.
[0014] The term "skin" means any part of the body and / or the face including the scalp.
[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the direct topical application and / or spraying of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention or a composition containing it onto the surface of the skin area to be treated.
[0016] According to the present invention, an effective amount of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is used to prevent and / or reduce the appearance of unaesthetic and / or undesirable and / or unpleasant skin pores.
[0017] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, an effective amount of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is used to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or prevent an increase in the visibility of skin pores and / or maintain and / or improve the uniformity of skin color.
[0018] The term "preventing and / or reducing the manifestation of unaesthetic, and / or undesirable, and / or unpleasant skin pore symptoms" means reducing the prominence of skin pores and / or the occurrence of pore darkening, and / or preventing an increase in the prominence of skin pores, and / or maintaining and / or improving the uniformity of skin color, and / or improving the texture of the skin.
[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "reducing the prominence of pores" means tightening the skin pores, i.e., reducing the number of pores, and / or the pore aperture diameter, and / or the pore area and / or density on the surface of the skin, and / or preventing the expansion of the skin pores. Thus, according to the extract according to the present invention, it is possible to reduce the number of pores, and / or the pore aperture diameter, and / or the pore area and / or density on the surface of the skin.
[0020] The term "preventing an increase in the prominence of skin pores" means suppressing, in whole or in part, an increase in the number of pores and / or the pore aperture diameter, particularly the expansion of the skin pores and / or an increase in the pore area and / or density of the skin pores.
[0021] The expansion of skin pores can be induced by internal factors such as being affected by hormonal changes or increased sebum secretion, or by external factors such as high external temperature or its increase, ultraviolet rays, environmental pollution, chemical attack factors, or administration of pharmaceuticals that modify the keratinization mechanism. The extract of Pyracantha fortuneana promotes the prevention of skin pore expansion.
[0022] The prominence of skin pores can be demonstrated in vivo by an evaluation called "scoring" by a dermatologist regarding a predetermined site after applying a composition containing the extract according to the present invention. It can also be demonstrated by an objective method using equipment for image analysis that enables extraction and quantification of specific pore area and density parameters from high-resolution photographs of the face of a volunteer taken before and after applying the composition containing the extract according to the present invention.
[0023] The area of pores on the skin can be measured in vivo by imaging, particularly by fringe projection techniques.
[0024] For example, the prominence of pores on the skin can be evaluated by measuring the area occupied by pores on the cheek and the number of pores (pore density) using VISIA-CR and image analysis (Image-Pro Plus). If these values are lower compared to the initial value and / or control at D0, it indicates that the prominence of pores has been reduced.
[0025] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, when at least a 3%, preferably at least a 4% reduction in the prominence of pores on the skin is observed after applying the extract according to the present invention for 56 days compared to the prominence of pores evaluated before application, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention is an effective amount to reduce the prominence of pores on the skin and / or prevent an increase in the prominence of pores on the skin. Preferably, the extract is prepared under the conditions described in Example 1, more preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition as described in Example 2.
[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintaining and / or improving skin color uniformity" means making the skin color more uniform, particularly by tightening the pores on the skin and / or reducing the number of pores, and / or the pore aperture diameter, and / or the area and / or density of pores on the skin surface, and / or reducing the expansion of pores on the skin, and / or preventing and / or reducing color defects related to pores on the skin, such as darkening, redness, color unevenness or scars related to pores on the skin, thereby preventing a decrease in skin color uniformity and / or increasing uniformity and / or improving the texture of the skin.
[0027] Skin uniformity can be measured, for example, by image analysis. This in vivo measurement method includes taking high-resolution photos before and after the application of the test article. Image analysis based on these digital photos enables the extraction and quantification of specific parameters related to color uniformity, such as the dispersion value of optical density. For example, skin uniformity can be evaluated by measuring the dispersion value of the optical density (OD) of the cheek using VISIA-CR with Image-Pro Plus. The smaller the dispersion value of OD, the higher the skin uniformity and the less skin color unevenness. Therefore, a decrease in this parameter indicates an improvement in skin uniformity.
[0028] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, when an improvement of at least 10%, preferably at least 15% in skin uniformity is observed after applying the extract according to the present invention for 56 days as compared to the skin uniformity evaluated before application, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention is an effective amount for maintaining and / or improving skin uniformity. Preferably, the extract is prepared under the conditions described in this example, specifically Example 1a), and is preferably formulated in the form of a cosmetic composition as described in Example 2.
[0029] The extract of Pyracantha fortuneana can be any part of the plant, such as the aerial part including roots and / or leaves, flowers, fruits, stems, or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a fruit extract.
[0030] The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art selected from decoction, maceration, extrusion, subcritical extraction, ultrasonic-assisted extraction, with or without grinding such as ultrasonic grinding, or using a blender. Advantageously, the extract is obtained by maceration with stirring.
[0031] The term "subcritical extraction" means extraction in the presence of water under temperature conditions higher than 100°C and pressure conditions of 22.1 MPa (221 bar) or less, where the water remains in a liquid state but has a lower viscosity and surface tension and a higher dielectric constant compared to water at room temperature.
[0032] The extraction can be carried out using dry or fresh plant material, preferably dry plant material, in an amount of 1% to 99% by weight, preferably 1% to 50% by weight, most preferably 1% to 20% by weight, and preferentially 5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.
[0033] The extraction can be carried out at a temperature in the range of 4°C to 300°C, including room temperature, i.e., 18°C to 25°C, specifically about 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature in the range of 20°C to 150°C, preferably 20°C to 80°C.
[0034] The extraction can be carried out over a period of several seconds to 24 hours, preferably 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably 10 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably in the range of 1 hour to 3 hours, and advantageously for a period of 2 hours.
[0035] The extraction can be repeated as many times as necessary under the same or different conditions as the first extraction. Preferably, the extraction is repeated once under the same conditions as the first extraction.
[0036] The solvent can be selected from water, a solvent, or a mixture of solvents; preferably, the solvent is a polar protic solvent. This is preferably selected from water, alcohol, glycol, polyol, a 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w) water / alcohol, water / glycol, or water / polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol, and / or other glycols such as butylene glycol, and / or xylitol, and / or propanediol, etc.), preferably a water / alcohol mixture, more preferably a water / ethanol mixture.
[0037] According to one embodiment, the water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol mixture, specifically water / alcohol, is in the range of 20 / 80 to 60 / 40, preferably 20 / 80 to 50 / 50 (w / w).
[0038] According to one embodiment, the water / ethanol mixture is in the range of 20 / 80 to 60 / 40, preferably 20 / 80 to 50 / 50 (w / w).
[0039] According to another embodiment, the extraction is preferably carried out by immersion in a water / ethanol mixture at a temperature of 20°C to 80°C, preferably for 2 hours; preferably, the extraction is repeated once.
[0040] Specifically, the extract is obtained by water-alcohol extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by water-alcohol extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction in an ethanol solution containing more than 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, specifically at least 60% by weight of ethanol based on the total weight of the solution, and more preferably containing no glycol and / or polyol at all.
[0041] The extraction according to the present invention with an ethanol solution is not a precipitation of the aqueous extract from ethanol.
[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is used as it is, specifically in the form of the active ingredient. The extract according to the present invention can be in a dry form, i.e., in powder form.
[0043] According to another preferred embodiment, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of an active ingredient in a dry form, i.e., preferably in a powder form combined with maltodextrin, where the extract content is preferably 1% - 99% (w / w), more preferably 1% - 50% (w / w), advantageously 1% - 25% (w / w), and even more advantageously 5% - 15% (w / w) based on the total weight of the powder containing both the extract and maltodextrin.
[0044] According to a preferred alternative embodiment, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention is in a liquid form and / or can be diluted in a solvent, and the extract content is preferably 0.1% - 99% (w / w), more preferably 0.1% - 50% (w / w), advantageously 0.1% - 20% (w / w), and even more advantageously 1% - 10% (w / w) based on the total weight of the liquid containing the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 50% (w / w) water, and even more preferably less than 40% (w / w) water. Most preferably, this solvent is a water - glycerol or water - glycol solvent.
[0045] According to the present invention, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention can be used alone in the form of an active ingredient and / or can be used in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions, particularly dermatological compositions.
[0046] The term "cosmetic composition" means a non - therapeutic composition, i.e., one that is applied to the "healthy" parts of the body, specifically the "healthy" skin areas, where therapeutic use is not intended.
[0047] According to one embodiment, the use of the extract and / or composition containing the same according to the present invention involves topical use, specifically on the skin of the legs, feet, armpits, hands, upper abdomen, arms, thighs, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, torso, back, neck, nape, scalp and / or face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), external auditory canal and / or chin, and is characterized by involving topical use on specific parts of the body selected therefrom.
[0048] In an advantageous embodiment, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a cosmetic composition, and the extract is 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w) based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w), more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w), even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w) in the form of a cosmetic composition containing the extract, and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a cosmetic composition, and the extract is 1×10 -4 % to 3% (w / w) in the form of a cosmetic composition containing the extract, and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0049] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as active agents for sensitive skin, active agents for improving the skin barrier, active agents for improving skin comfort, anti-redness active agents, anti-inflammation active agents, whitening active agents, active agents for improving skin glow, active agents for oily skin, active agents for improving skin flaking, moisturizing active agents, anti-aging active agents, free radical scavengers, protectors of fibroblast growth factor (FGF), agents for stimulating the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts and / or spa water.
[0050] The subject of the present invention is for preventing and / or reducing the aesthetically non-pleasing, and / or undesirable, and / or unpleasant symptoms of skin pores, in particular for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in the visibility of skin pores and / or maintaining and / or improving the color uniformity, by topically applying or orally applying an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention or a cosmetic composition containing the same to at least one site of the skin.
[0051] Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, is used by regular topical application, preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day, for at least 28 days, preferably for 36 days, more preferably for at least 45 days, even more preferably for at least 56 days.
[0052] The cosmetic care method according to the present invention for preventing and / or reducing the aesthetically non-pleasing, and / or undesirable, and / or unpleasant symptoms of skin pores, in particular for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in the visibility of skin pores and / or maintaining and / or improving the skin color uniformity, advantageously comprises the following steps: - Identifying a site on healthy skin of an individual where it is desirable to prevent and / or reduce the aesthetically non-pleasing, and / or undesirable, and / or unpleasant symptoms of skin pores, in particular for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or preventing an increase in the visibility of skin pores and / or maintaining and / or improving the skin color uniformity. - Topically applying an effective amount of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention in the form of an active ingredient or a cosmetic composition containing said extract, which is used alone or in combination with maltodextrin or diluted in a solvent or a mixture of solvents, to that site of the healthy skin. comprises.
[0053] In another embodiment, the extract according to the present invention can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.
[0054] Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention or a composition containing the same is intended for topical application to specific parts of the body selected from the skin of the legs, feet, armpits, hands, upper abdomen, arms, thighs, waist, buttocks, waist, crotch, torso, back, neck, décolletage, scalp and / or face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal and / or chin.
[0055] Advantageously, the extract and / or the composition containing the same are intended for application to healthy tissue sites with undesirable visible pores, such as sites where at least a 3%, preferably at least a 4% reduction in the visibility of pores is required, and / or to healthy tissue sites with non-uniform color, such as sites where at least a 10%, preferably at least a 15% improvement is required.
[0056] Therefore, advantageously, the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin.
[0057] Alternatively, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention can be in any delivery form conventionally used for topical application.
[0058] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care method according to the present invention is such that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a cosmetic composition, and the extract is 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w), preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 1×10 -3In the form of a cosmetic composition containing from 0.01% to 3% (w / w), more preferably from 0.01% to 3% (w / w), and even more preferably from 0.01% to 1% (w / w), and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a cosmetic composition, and the extract is 1×10 -4 In the form of a cosmetic composition containing at a concentration of from 0.01% to 3% (w / w), and the composition also contains at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable excipient" means a compound and / or solvent that is locally acceptable for healthy skin, i.e., a component suitable for topical application, i.e., a component that is non-toxic, non-irritating, does not induce an allergic reaction, and is not chemically unstable.
[0060] This cosmetic care method uses the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention.
[0061] The subject of the present invention is an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a dermatological composition containing the same, which is also for the topical use thereof in the treatment, and / or prevention, and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathological conditions associated with the appearance of pimples such as acne.
[0062] The subject of the present invention is also the use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana for the manufacture of a topical pharmaceutical or a dermatological topical composition containing the same for the treatment, and / or prevention, and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathological conditions associated with the appearance of pimples such as acne.
[0063] The subject of the present invention is a pharmaceutical or dermatological treatment method for a subject in need thereof for treating, and / or preventing, and / or reducing the occurrence of pathological conditions associated with the appearance of acne, such as pimples, which method comprises topically administering to said subject in need thereof an effective amount of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a dermatological composition comprising the same.
Embodiments for Carrying Out the Invention
[0064] Specifically, the extract is the extract according to the present invention, more specifically the extract as described and / or defined above herein.
[0065] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.
[0066] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention is not intended for use on sensitive skin, inflamed skin and / or skin prone to atopic dermatitis.
[0067] According to one embodiment, in the present composition, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is present in the composition in a content of 1×10 -4 % to 10% (w / w), preferably 1×10 -3 % to 10% (w / w), advantageously 1×10 -3 % to 3% (w / w), more preferably 0.01% to 3% (w / w), even more preferably 0.01% to 1% (w / w), based on the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is present in the composition in a content of 1×10 -4 % to 3% (w / w).
[0068] Preferably, the cosmetic composition or dermatological composition according to the present invention contains one or more cosmetic (or dermatological) active ingredients such as a moisturizing active agent, an anti-aging active agent, a free radical scavenger, a fibroblast growth factor (FGF) protecting agent, an agent for stimulating the activity and / or proliferation of fibroblasts, and / or spa water.
[0069] The cosmetic composition or dermatological composition according to the present invention can be selected from an aqueous or oily solution, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; an emulsion; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular an oil-in-water type or a water-in-oil type or a multiple or silicone-based emulsion; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a solid soap for dermatology; an ointment; a balm; a butter; a mousse; a patch; preferably a liquid, a paste or a solid, for example a cosmetic powder, a stick or a stick, in particular an anhydrous product in the form of a lipstick.
[0070] This can also be a cosmetic product or a makeup remover product.
[0071] The composition according to the present invention may optionally contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable medium and / or any suitable excipient, in combination with other than the compound of interest, if desired.
[0072] Advantageously, the extract according to the present invention is not used in combination with a dragon fruit extract, and / or a rose extract, and / or a maca extract, and / or loofah water.
[0073] As a result, for these compositions, the excipient contains at least one compound selected from the group consisting of, for example, preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, humectants, thickeners, modifiers, matting agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texture modifiers, brighteners, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, and sunscreen agents.These excipients are preferably selected from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, cellulose polymers and derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, jojoba oil and its derivatives, fat-soluble / water-soluble esters, betaines, amine oxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines and parabens, more preferably butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerol, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearic acid, caprylic / capric triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral wax and mineral oil, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol diperargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, glycerides from hydrogenated palm kernel oil, glycerides from hydrogenated palm oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and / or appearance of the skin (including the scalp). Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic compositions and / or dermatological compositions to achieve the best effects. Moreover, these compounds may have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. Such combinations are also encompassed by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, in particular those suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc. (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, mansaku distillate), anti-acne agents, anticoagulants, defoamers, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffers, swelling agents, chelating agents, additives, biocides, denaturants, thickeners and vitamins and their derivatives or equivalents, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifiers, pH adjusters, reducing agents, decolorizing agents or lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., moisturizers).
[0075] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may further contain other cosmetic and / or dermatological agents having the same properties as the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention and inducing a synergistic or non-synergistic effect, or cosmetic agents having a complementary effect.
[0076] It may be an ingredient that reduces the visibility of pores and / or improves color uniformity, such as an extract of the seeds of Bixa orellana, for example.
[0077] Furthermore, it may be an extract of rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) leaves sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the name Nephoria™, or an extract of chicory (Cichorium intybus) sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the name Lox-Age™, etc., an anti-aging active ingredient and / or an extract of rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) bark sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the name Nephydrat™, etc., a firming agent, and / or a moisturizing active ingredient, and / or an active agent that increases the barrier effect of the epidermis, such as a hydrolyzed linseed extract sold by BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the name Oligolin™.
[0078] The tensioning agent that can be used in the present invention can be selected from synthetic polymers such as polyurethane latex or acrylic latex, polymers of natural origin, especially polysaccharides in the form of starch or carrageenan, alginate, agar, gellan, cellulose-based polymers and pectin; vegetable proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; inorganic fillers such as silica, silica-alumina composites; and colloidal particles of these mixtures.
[0079] Finally, these can be beauty components such as antimicrobial agents, free radical scavengers, analgesics, sedatives or relaxants, agents acting on microcirculation to improve the appearance, in particular the glow of the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition and / or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more tensioning agents, and / or one or more antimicrobial agents, and / or one or more free radical scavengers, and / or one or more analgesics, and / or one or more slimming agents, and / or one or more agents acting on microcirculation.
[0080] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, among the antimicrobial agents combined with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana, there are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorovanillamide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, sertaconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulconazole, sulconazole nitrate, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.
[0081] The free radical scavengers can be vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, particularly tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing the same, particularly green tea extract; anthocyanins; phenolic acids, stilbenes; monocyclic or polycyclic aromatic compound scavengers, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or heavy metal scavengers such as EDTA, free radical scavengers such as vitamin E and its derivatives, such as tocopherol acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.
[0082] As sedatives included in the composition of the present invention, there may be used pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, ω-3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and betamethasone, anti-inflammatory active agents and in particular those described in French Patent No. 2 847 267, in particular the extract of the root of kudzu (Pueraria lobata) sold by the applicant under the name Inhipase (trademark) and the extract of cacao (Theobroma cacao).
[0083] Active ingredients, vasoprotective agents or vasodilators acting on microcirculation may be selected from flavonoids, ruscogenin, nicotinates and essential oils.
[0084] Anti-obesity active agents may be selected from lipoprotein lipase inhibitors such as those described in US Patent Application Publication No. 2003 / 086949 (Coletica) and in particular the extract of cat's claw (Uncaria tomentosa); excretion active agents, in particular hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum (trademark)) or quercetin caprylate (Flavenger (trademark)); phosphodiesterase enzyme inhibitors, adenylate cyclase activators, active agents having the ability to capture cAMP and / or spermine and / or spermidine. Extracts of the root of Coleus forskohlii, Cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, hydrolyzed κ-carrageenan of the trade name Slimexcess (trademark) sold by the applicant and / or mixtures thereof may be mentioned.
[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" means a composition intended to treat and / or prevent skin pathological conditions associated with the appearance of pimples, such as acne.
[0086] Advantageously, the present invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, intended to treat and / or prevent skin pathological conditions associated with the appearance of pimples, such as acne.
[0087] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples.
[0088] Examples referring to the description of the present invention are presented below. These examples are provided for illustrative purposes and in no way limit the scope of the present invention. Each of the examples has a general scope.
[0089] These examples form an essential part of the present invention, and any features that appear to be new compared to any prior art from the description of the specification, including these examples and the whole of which is incorporated, form an essential part of the present invention.
[0090] Moreover, in these examples, percentages are given on a weight basis unless otherwise indicated, temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and pressures are atmospheric unless otherwise indicated.
Example
[0091] <Example 1A: Preparation of an extract (powder containing maltodextrin) of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention> The dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana are extracted with a 35 / 65 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is carried out with ethanol, and then the eluate is concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The obtained liquid extract is mixed with maltodextrin at a ratio of 90% (weight / weight%) of maltodextrin to 10% solid with respect to maltodextrin. Next, the obtained mixture is freeze-dried to obtain a pink to brown powder. The obtained product is characterized by a moisture content ≦ 8.0% (weight / weight) and a quercetin glycoside content of 0.5% - 1.5% (weight / weight%, determined by HPLC).
[0092] <Example 1B: Preparation of an extract (crude powder without adjuvant) of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention> The dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana are extracted with a 35 / 65 (weight / weight) water / ethanol mixture, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is carried out with ethanol, and then the eluate is concentrated with a vacuum evaporator. The obtained liquid is freeze-dried to obtain a pink to dark brown powder. The obtained product is characterized by a moisture content ≤ 8.0% (weight / weight) and a quercetin glycoside content of 5% - 15% (weight / weight%, determined by HPLC).
[0093] <Example 1C: Preparation of an extract (liquid) of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention mixed with glycol> The dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana are extracted with a 35 / 65 (w / w) water / ethanol mixture, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is carried out with ethanol, and then the eluate is concentrated with a vacuum evaporator. Next, this extract is dissolved in an 80 / 20 (weight / weight) propylene glycol / water mixture at 60 °C with stirring to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by a solid content of 5% (% weight / weight) extracted from the fruits and a quercetin glycoside content of 0.25% - 0.75% (weight / weight%, determined by HPLC).
[0094] <Example 1D: Preparation of an extract (liquid) of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention mixed with glycerol> The dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana are extracted with a 35 / 65 (w / w) water / ethanol mixture, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid, which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is carried out with ethanol, and the eluate is then concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. Next, this extract is dissolved with stirring in an 80 / 20 (weight / weight) glycerol / water mixture at 80 °C to obtain a liquid. The said liquid is characterized by a solid content of 5% (wt / wt) extracted from the fruits and a quercetin glycoside content of 0.25% - 0.75% (wt / wt%, determined by HPLC).
[0095] <Example 2: An example of a cosmetic composition containing an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the present invention> Using methods known to those skilled in the art, the various phases A, B, and C shown in Table 1 below are mixed together to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The ratios are expressed as percentages, and the capitalized names correspond to the INCI names of their components.
[0096]
Table 1
[0097]
Table 2
[0098] <Example 3: Reducing the visibility of pores and improving color uniformity> A double-blind half-face clinical trial was conducted with the active composition of Example 2) containing the extract according to Example 1a) and the control composition of Example 2) not containing the extract according to the present invention.
[0099] The effectiveness of a composition containing an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana (active composition) or a composition containing no extract of Pyracantha fortuneana (control composition) was evaluated by comparing the skin before treatment (D0, initial value) with the skin after treatment. This test was carried out over 56 days with D56 as the control time point.
[0100] The test was conducted on 30 Asian female volunteers aged 40 to 50 years. The volunteers applied each composition twice a day (under normal usage conditions - once in the morning and once at night) to each half of their face.
[0101] The effects were evaluated by VISIA-CR using image analysis (Image-Pro Plus) to measure the ratio of the area occupied by pores on the cheeks and the number of pores (pore density). A decrease in these values compared to the initial value and / or control at D0 indicates a reduction in the visibility of pores.
[0102] The color uniformity was evaluated by VISIA-CR using image analysis (Image-Pro Plus) to measure the dispersion value of the optical density (OD) on the cheeks. The smaller the dispersion value of OD, the higher the color uniformity and the less color unevenness. Therefore, a decrease in this parameter indicates an increase in color uniformity.
[0103] The results are expressed as the percentage of variation compared to the value at D0.
[0104] After confirming normality using the Shapiro-Wilk test, a statistical analysis of the parameter variation as a function of time and as a function of the test composition was performed by a two-sided Student's t-test after confirmation of normality or a Wilcoxon test after rejection of normality.
[0105] The significance threshold was set at 5% (p < 0.05).
[0106]
Table 3
[0107]
Table 4
[0108] The results in Table 2 show that when the active composition according to Example 2 containing the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained as in Example 1a) is applied to the cheek, the area occupied by pores - is significantly (p < 0.001) after 56 days of treatment compared to the area occupied by pores before treatment, - is significantly (p < 0.05) after 56 days of treatment compared to the control composition according to Example 2) that does not contain the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana decreases.
[0109] The results in Table 2 show that when the active composition according to Example 2 containing the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained as in Example 1a) is applied to the cheek, the number of pores - is significantly (p < 0.001) after 56 days of treatment compared to the number of pores before treatment, - is significantly (p < 0.001) after 56 days of treatment compared to the control composition according to Example 2) that does not contain the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana decreases.
[0110]
Table 5
[0111] The results in Table 3 show that when the active composition according to Example 2 containing the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained as in Example 1a) is applied to the cheek, the dispersion value of the optical density - Significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment compared to the dispersion value of optical density obtained before treatment, - Significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment compared to the control composition according to Example 2) not containing the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana It is shown to decrease. These results indicate that the extract according to the present invention improves the color uniformity.
Claims
1. Cosmetic use of Pyracantha fortunea extract to prevent and / or reduce the appearance of unsightly and / or undesirable and / or unpleasant skin pore symptoms.
2. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 for reducing the appearance of skin pores, and / or preventing an increase in the appearance of skin pores, and / or maintaining and / or improving the uniformity of skin tone.
3. The cosmetic use according to claim 1 for reducing the number of pores, and / or the diameter of pore openings, and / or the area and / or density of said pores on the surface of the skin, and / or for preventing the dilation of said pores on the skin.
4. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, comprising topical application of the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana.
5. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is an extract of the above-ground part.
6. The cosmetic use according to Claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is a fruit extract.
7. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is obtained by extraction in a polar protic solvent.
8. The cosmetic use according to claim 7, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is obtained by extraction with a water / alcohol mixture.
9. The cosmetic use according to claim 8, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is obtained by extraction with a water / ethanol mixture.
10. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a dried active ingredient, with or without maltodextrin.
11. The extract of Pyracantha fortuneana, when the amount of the extract is 1 × 10⁻¹⁶ of the total weight of the composition -4 The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a cosmetic composition containing a concentration of ~10% (w / w), the composition also comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
12. The cosmetic use according to claim 11, characterized in that the composition also contains one or more cosmetic active ingredients, such as an active ingredient for sensitive skin, an active ingredient for improving the skin barrier, an active ingredient for improving skin comfort, an anti-redness active ingredient, an anti-rash active ingredient, a whitening active ingredient, an active ingredient for improving skin radiance, an active ingredient for oily skin, an active ingredient for improving skin desquamation, a moisturizing active ingredient, an anti-aging active ingredient, a free radical scavenger and / or hot spring water.
13. The cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized by topical application to a specific part of the body selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, nape of the neck, upper abdomen, arms, thighs, waist, buttocks, waist, groin, torso, back, face and / or scalp.
14. A cosmetic care method for reducing the appearance of skin pores, and / or preventing an increase in the appearance of skin pores, and / or maintaining and / or improving skin tone uniformity, comprising topical application or oral administration of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a cosmetic composition containing the same.
15. The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, comprising topical application of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a cosmetic composition containing the same.
16. The extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is used at a concentration of 1 × 10⁻¹⁶ of the total weight of the composition. -4 The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, wherein the method is in the form of a cosmetic composition containing a concentration of ~10% (w / w), the composition also containing at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
17. The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, wherein the extract of Pyracantha fortunea is as described in any one of claims 1 to 13.
18. The cosmetic care method according to claim 14, wherein the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or the cosmetic composition containing the same is used by regular topical application at least once a day for at least 45 days.
19. An extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a dermatological composition containing the same, for topical use in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the development of pathological conditions associated with the appearance of comedones.
20. The Pyracantha fortunea for use according to claim 19, characterized in that the Pyracantha fortunea for use is as described in any one of claims 1 to 13.