Solid powder cosmetics

JP2026125259AActive Publication Date: 2026-08-03NIPPON SHIKIZAI INC
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Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
NIPPON SHIKIZAI INC
Filing Date
2025-01-22
Publication Date
2026-08-03

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Benefits of technology

【0013】 本発明によれば、カバー力、色調、塗布具へのとれ等のファンデーションの機能を維持したままグレー感を低減し、外観色と塗布色の差を低減した濃色の固形粉末化粧料を提供することができる。

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Abstract

A solid powder cosmetic that maintains the functions of foundation, such as coverage, color tone, and ease of application, while reducing the grayness even in dark colors and minimizing the difference between the appearance color and the applied color. [Solution] (A) 10-50% by mass of iron oxide (B) 2-40% by mass of yellow organic pigment (C) Oil phase 4-15% by mass (D) 0.1-3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium dioxide A solid powder cosmetic comprising (C) having a viscosity of less than 2500 mPa·s.
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Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] This invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic. More particularly, this invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic that reduces the gray appearance when applied to the user's skin. [Background technology]

[0002] Traditionally, solid powder cosmetics have been widely used as one of the formulations of cosmetics. A typical example of solid powder cosmetics is foundation. Foundations generally contain titanium dioxide to provide coverage, and iron oxide pigments to match the user's skin tone.

[0003] Iron oxide pigments contained in solid powder cosmetics are known to impart a gray appearance when applied to the skin. To prevent dullness of the cosmetic film, a composite functional powder is known that has at least a low refractive index light-transmitting inorganic material powder having a specific shape and a coating having a geometric thickness of an inorganic material with a refractive index greater than that of the inorganic material powder, thereby providing high light transmittance and diffuse transmittance (see, for example, Patent Document 1). [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2000-319540 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0005] In cosmetics containing iron oxide, particularly in dark-colored foundations and the like, since the pigment content is high, a greyish color becomes显著 when applied to the skin. The greyish color refers to the color tone during application where the chroma is lower than the appearance color of the cosmetic and a dullness with a grey tint is felt. Therefore, it has been difficult to develop dark-colored foundations. Patent Document 1 discloses preventing dullness with composite functional powders, but does not provide solutions to the problems of greyish color in dark-colored cosmetics.

[0006] There is a demand for a solid powder cosmetic that reduces the greyish color and the difference between the appearance color and the applied color even when it is dark-colored, while maintaining the functions of a foundation such as covering power, color tone, and ease of application to the applicator.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0007] In view of the above situation, as a result of intensive studies by the present inventor, it has been found that a solid powder cosmetic that solves the above problems can be obtained by containing iron oxide, a yellow organic pigment, an oil phase with a predetermined viscosity, and pigment-grade titanium oxide in a predetermined amount, and the present invention has been completed.

[0008] That is, according to one embodiment of the present invention, it is a solid powder cosmetic containing (A) 10 to 50% by mass of iron oxide; (B) 2 to 40% by mass of a yellow organic pigment; (C) 4 to 15% by mass of an oil phase; and (D) 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium oxide, and the viscosity of the (C) is less than 2500 mPa·s.

[0009] It is preferable that the solid powder cosmetic has a color tone of 27 < L* < 60, 8 < a* < 21, and 7 < b* < 47.

[0010] In the aforementioned solid powder cosmetic composition, it is preferable that the oil phase (C) contains one or more selected from phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and diphenyldimethicone.

[0011] In the aforementioned solid powder cosmetic composition, it is preferable that it substantially contains no powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher other than the iron oxide and the pigment-grade titanium oxide.

[0012] In the aforementioned solid powder cosmetic composition, it is preferable that the iron oxide of (A) contains yellow iron oxide, and the mass ratio of yellow iron oxide to the yellow organic pigment of (B) is 1:0.2 to 2.5. [Effects of the Invention]

[0013] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a dark-colored solid powder cosmetic that reduces the grayness while maintaining the functions of a foundation, such as coverage, color tone, and ease of application, thereby reducing the difference between the appearance color and the applied color. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0014] According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic. The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment comprises at least the following: (A) 10-50% by mass of iron oxide (B) 2-40% by mass of yellow organic pigment (C) Oil phase 4-15% by mass (D) 0.1-3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium dioxide Furthermore, the viscosity of (C) is less than 2500 mPa·s.

[0015] In this specification, the solid powder cosmetic refers to a cosmetic composed of a powder as the main component and an oil phase acting as its binder or adherent, and manufactured by press molding. The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment is a dry-molded solid powder cosmetic. The dry-molded solid powder cosmetic refers to a cosmetic formed by filling a bulk into a mold and compressing it with a press mold. Note that the wet-molded solid powder cosmetic, unlike the dry-molded one, refers to a cosmetic formed by adding a solvent such as water to a bulk to make it slurry-like, filling it into a mold, and drying and evaporating the solvent after press processing, and is characterized by using a volatile solvent in the molding process. Hereinafter, in this specification, the "solid powder cosmetic" according to the present invention may be referred to simply as "cosmetic" for the sake of brevity.

[0016] Hereinafter, essential components (A), (B), (C), and (D) constituting the solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment will be described.

[0017] (A) Iron oxide Component (A) is 10 to 50% by mass of iron oxide. The iron oxide may be generally used iron oxide in cosmetics, and may include one or more of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, but is not limited thereto. The mass ratio of red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide is not particularly limited, but it is preferably included in a mass ratio that satisfies a predetermined color tone (L * a * b * We will describe the details later. ) and is preferably included in a mass ratio that satisfies a predetermined color tone (L

[0018] The shape of the iron oxide is not particularly limited and may include any shape such as spherical, granular, polyhedral shapes like octahedrons, flaky, needle-like, or amorphous. If two or more types of iron oxide are included, such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, the shapes of the two or more types of iron oxide may be the same or different. In addition, the iron oxide of component (A) may be surface-treated iron oxide. Suitable surface treatment agents include, but are not limited to, dimethicone, methicone, disodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl lysine, sodium dilauroyl glutamate lysine, sodium lauroyl aspartate, aluminum dimyristate, magnesium stearate, silica, isopropyl titanium triethoxycaprylylsilanetriisostearate, and hydrogenated lecithin.

[0019] Specific product names for red iron oxide include SA-C3380010 RED BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS), AM-200P (manufactured by Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.), Shippoin (Morishita Bengara Industry Co., Ltd.), and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide R-516P (Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.). Specific product names for yellow iron oxide include SA-C3390010 YELLOW BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS) and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide LL-100P (Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.). Specific product names for black iron oxide include SA-C3370010 BLACK BROYE (Miyoshi Eurore SAS), BM-200P (manufactured by Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.), ABL-412HP (manufactured by Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.), and TAROX Synthetic Iron Oxide BL-100P (Titanium Industry Co., Ltd.), but are not limited to these.

[0020] Component (A) is present in an amount of 10% or more by mass and 50% or less by mass, when the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic is considered to be 100%. If the content of component (A) is less than 10% by mass, the coverage and color development will be insufficient. If the content of component (A) exceeds 50% by mass, the grayness will be stronger when applied to the skin, and a difference will occur between the applied color and the appearance color. In addition, the removal effect will be poor and the color development will decrease. Here, removal effect refers to how easily the cosmetic is picked up by the applicator. The content of component (A) is preferably 15% or more by mass and 45% or less by mass, and more preferably 20% or more by mass and 40% or less by mass. Here, applied color refers to the color when an appropriate amount of the solid powder cosmetic is applied to the user's skin, and appearance color refers to the color when the solid powder cosmetic is stored in bulk in a container. If there is a difference between the applied color and the visible color, the visible color may have good color development and appropriate saturation, but when applied, the color may have poor development, low saturation, and appear grayish, which can be a disadvantage.

[0021] (B) Yellow organic pigment Component (B) is a yellow organic pigment in an amount of 2-40% by mass. The yellow organic pigment can reduce the grayness by improving the color development of the cosmetic. In particular, the amount of a predetermined amount of yellow iron oxide can be reduced, and the yellow organic pigment can be used as a substitute for yellow iron oxide, thereby achieving the desired color tone described in detail later and reducing the grayness.

[0022] Any yellow organic pigment used in the cosmetics industry can be used as the yellow organic pigment. A specific example is UNIPURE YELLOW LC125 (manufactured by Sensient Technologies Japan Co., Ltd.). This product is designated as Yellow 4 in Japanese cosmetic labeling and YELLOW 5 LAKE in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). Another example is 9610 FD&C YELLOW6LAKE (manufactured by Sensient Colors Inc.). This product is designated as Yellow 5 in Japanese cosmetic labeling and YELLOW 6 LAKE in INCI. These two different yellow organic pigments can also be mixed and used.

[0023] Component (B) is present in an amount of 2% or more by mass and 40% or less by mass, when the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic is considered to be 100%. If the content of component (A) is less than 2% by mass, the color development will be insufficient. If the content of component (A) exceeds 40% by mass, the feeling of removal will be poor. Preferably, the content of component (A) is 3% or more by mass and 30% or less by mass, and more preferably 4% or more by mass and 20% or less by mass.

[0024] (C) Oil phase Component (C) is the oil phase. The oil phase refers to the phase consisting of oily components, and may be a phase consisting of a single oily component or a phase in which multiple types of oily components are mixed. The oil phase may be a liquid oil, a paste-like oil, or a mixture of low-viscosity and high-viscosity oils, as long as its viscosity is less than 2500 mPa·s. Therefore, even if an oily component has a viscosity of 2500 mPa·s or more on its own, it is sufficient if the viscosity of the oil phase mixed with other oily components is less than 2500 mPa·s. An oil phase with a viscosity of less than 2500 mPa·s has excellent dispersibility for the yellow organic pigment of component (B), allowing the color to be applied clearly to the user's skin and contributing to a reduction in grayness.

[0025] Here, the viscosity of the oil phase refers to the viscosity measured using a BM II viscometer at a measurement temperature of 25°C and with a spindle rotor. The measurement conditions for each viscosity range, [spindle number - revolutions per minute - measurement time], are as follows. ~80 mPa / s [1-60-60] 81-160 mPa / s [1-30-30] 161-400 mPa / s [2-60-60] 401-800 mPa / s [2-30-30] 801-2000 mPa / s [2-12-30] 2001-4000 mPa / s [2-6-30] 4001~8000 mPa / s [3-12-30] The viscosity of the oil phase may be the viscosity of the oil phase itself if it consists of only one type of oil. For mixed oils consisting of a mixture of two or more different oils, the viscosity shall be the viscosity measured for the mixture. The viscosity of the oil phase is preferably less than 360 Pa·s, and more preferably less than 130 Pa·s.

[0026] The oils constituting the oil phase of component (C) may be, for example, oils having the above viscosity, either alone or in combination, and preferably include, but are not limited to, natural oils and fats, hydrocarbon oils, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils. Specific examples of oils can be selected from, but are not limited to, the group consisting of, for example, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diisostearyl malate, macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, polyhydroxystearic acid, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, and dimethicone.

[0027] Component (C) is present in an amount of 4% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less, when the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic is considered to be 100%. If the content of component (C) is less than 4% by mass, the color development will decrease. If the content of component (C) exceeds 15% by mass, the feeling of removal will worsen. Preferably, the content of component (C) is 5% by mass or more and 13% by mass or less, and more preferably 6% by mass or more and 11% by mass or less.

[0028] (D) Pigment-grade titanium dioxide Component (D) is 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium dioxide. Pigment-grade titanium dioxide has a high refractive index, high opacity, and increases whiteness when applied. The average particle size of the pigment-grade titanium dioxide may be 100 nm to 1000 nm, and the presence or absence of surface treatment and particle shape are not particularly limited.

[0029] Component (D) is preferably present in an amount of 0.1% by mass or more and 3% by mass or less, when the total mass of the solid powder cosmetic is considered to be 100%. If the content of component (D) is greater than 3% by mass, the grayness increases, and the difference between the applied color and the visible color becomes larger. Also, if the content of component (D) is less than 0.1% by mass, the coverage decreases, and it becomes unable to function as a foundation. It is more preferable that the content of component (D) be 0.2% by mass or more and 2% by mass or less, and even more preferable that it be 0.5% by mass or more and 1.5% by mass or less.

[0030] (E) Other ingredients Other ingredients may include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceutical compositions, etc., and may be ingredients other than those in the oil phase. Specific examples include powder ingredients other than ingredients (A), (B), and (D), water, dyes, water-soluble polymer compounds, fragrances, surfactants, film-forming agents, additives, resins, antibacterial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, humectants, alcohols such as polyhydric alcohols and lower alcohols, sugars, UV absorbers, whitening agents, skin activators, blood circulation promoters, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, cooling agents, etc.

[0031] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the solid powder cosmetic substantially does not contain powders having a high refractive index other than (A) iron oxide and (D) pigment-grade titanium oxide, and it is more preferable that, in addition to iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide, it substantially does not contain powders having a refractive index of 1.7 or more. "Substantially does not contain powders having a refractive index of 1.7 or more in addition to iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide" means that, excluding iron oxide and pigment-grade titanium oxide, the content of powders having a refractive index of 1.7 or more is 1% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. This is because powders having a high refractive index, particularly powders having a refractive index of 1.7 or more, may impart a grayish feeling when applied to the skin. Examples of powders having a refractive index of 1.7 or more include boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, and zinc oxide. Incidentally, although (A) iron oxide and (D) pigment-grade titanium oxide have a high refractive index, by containing them in an amount within the above range, it is possible to exhibit covering power while suppressing the grayish feeling.

[0032] The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment has a color tone within the range satisfying 27 < L * <60, 8 < a * <21, 7 < b * <47, and it is preferable that it has a color tone within the range satisfying 32 < L * <60, 9 < a * <18, 11 < b * <36. To achieve this color tone, it is preferable to blend black iron oxide:red iron oxide:yellow iron oxide contained in the (A) component in a mass ratio of 1:1 to 3:0.4 to 15. Further, it is preferable to blend yellow iron oxide contained in the (A) component and the yellow organic pigment of the (B) component in a mass ratio of 1:0.2 to 2.5.

[0033] The solid powder cosmetic according to this embodiment can be manufactured by a dry molding method. The dry molding method includes the steps of mixing components (A) to (D), and optionally component (E), filling the mixture into a container such as a metal dish, and pressure molding the filled mixture. In the mixing step, at room temperature, the powder components containing components (A), (B), and (D) can be pulverized using a conventional pulverizer, the oil phase of component (C) and the optionally selected component can be added, and all components can be mixed using a conventional stirrer. After mixing, optionally, the mixture may be further pulverized using a pulverizer. The mixed composition can be pulverized using a grinding device such as a hammer mill. In the filling step, the bulk cosmetic obtained by mixing and pulverizing is filled into a container such as a metal dish according to a general dry molding method. In the pressure molding step, the mixture filled into the container is molded by applying pressure with a mold or the like to obtain a solid powder cosmetic.

[0034] The solid powder cosmetic composition according to this embodiment may be any cosmetic composition that can be applied to the skin, and may take the form of a makeup cosmetic, a cosmetic, or a topical skin preparation. Specifically, examples include, but are not limited to, powder foundations, bronzers, and contouring products.

[0035] Furthermore, when using the solid powder cosmetic composition according to this embodiment as a foundation, the target users may be, for example, users whose skin color corresponds to 10°>ITA°>-30° brown and -30°>ITA° dark based on the Individual Typology Angle (ITA°). ITA° is the amount of reflected light when light is shone on the skin. * a * b * It can be converted into a color index such as a value and calculated using the following formula. ITA°=[Arc Tangent((L * -50) / b * ]180 / π [Examples]

[0036] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[0037] The solid powder cosmetic compositions for the examples and comparative examples were manufactured as follows: From the components listed in Tables 1-5, the oil phase component (C) was added to the pre-weighed powder components (A), (B), and (D), and mixed in a Henschel mixer. The resulting mixture was then pulverized in a pulverizer. After that, it was passed through a sieve and pressed onto a metal pan. The operations were basically carried out at room temperature.

[0038] In the manufacturing of solid powder cosmetics, the viscosity of the oils constituting the oil phase and the oil phase itself were measured. The viscosity of "macadamia nantz fatty acid phytosteryl" was measured using a Brookfield digital viscometer (AMETEK). The viscosity of the other oils and oil phases was measured using a BM II viscometer (Toki Sangyo). The measurement temperature was 25°C, and a spindle rotor was used. The rotation speed (rpm (revolutions per minute)) and rotation time (seconds) were changed depending on the oil. The viscosity measurement results for the oils are shown in Table 1.

[0039] [Table 1] *1 KF-96A-20cs (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) *2 Cosmoll 43V (Nisshin Oillio Group Ltd.) *3 Risolex PGIS23 / MB (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.) *4 DOWSIL SH 200 Fluid 3,000 cSt (manufactured by Dow-Toray Industries, Inc.)

[0040] The evaluation items and evaluation details for the manufactured solid powder cosmetic were as follows: (1) Color development (application) The applied color of each solid powder cosmetic when applied to BioSkin with a puff was evaluated. A high rating was given to cases with good color development. (2) The grayness of the applied color The grayness of each solid powder cosmetic applied to BioSkin with a puff was evaluated. A high rating was given when there was no grayness. (3) Difference between exterior color and painted color The appearance color of each solid powder cosmetic was compared with the color when applied to BioSkin with a puff and evaluated. A smaller difference between the appearance color and the applied color was given a higher rating. (4) Moderate coverage The coverage of each solid powder cosmetic applied to BioSkin with a puff was evaluated. A higher rating was given for products with good coverage. (5) Feel Each solid powder cosmetic was picked up 10 times in the same direction with a puff, and the degree to which it was picked up by the puff was evaluated. A high rating was given for good pick-up. (6) Color tone Each solid powder cosmetic in its container was measured using a spectrophotometer SE 6000 (manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.), and 27 <L * <60,8 * <21,7 * We evaluated whether it fell within the range of <47.

[0041] The BioSkin color tone used for evaluation was measured using a spectrophotometer: CM-2600d (manufactured by Konica Minolta), and the result was L * :29.10, a * :1.36, b * The value was 1.35. This shade fell within the range of the expected user's skin tone, which is 10°>ITA°>-30° brown and -30°>ITA° dark.

[0042] Evaluation items (1) to (5) were assessed visually by five panelists. Each panelist rated each evaluation item (1) to (5) on a 5-point scale, with 1 point being the worst and 5 points being the best. The average score of the five panelists' evaluations was then calculated to determine the 4-point rating scale for the cosmetics. Average score between 4.0 and 5.0: A Average score between 3.0 and 4.0: B Average score between 2.0 and 3.0: C ​​Average score between 1.0 and 2.0: D For evaluation item (6), A was assigned if the color fell within the above range, and D if it did not.

[0043] Tables 2-9 show the composition and evaluation results of the cosmetic compositions in the examples and comparative examples. Unless otherwise specified, the values ​​in the tables represent the content (mass%) of each component in the cosmetic composition. In all cosmetic compositions, the remainder was methicone-treated synthetic fluorophlogopite, making the total amount 100%. In the tables, "-" indicates that the component is not contained in the cosmetic composition (0%). For component D, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide with an average particle size of 0.25 μm was used in all examples and comparative examples. Furthermore, "viscosity of the oil phase" refers to the viscosity of the oil phase of component C, which is a mixture of all the oils contained in the cosmetic composition, and the measurement conditions were the same as those for component C above. The unit is mPa / s. Tables 5 and 9 reproduce Example 1 for comparison purposes. For component A, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide, unless otherwise specified in the table, needle-shaped red iron oxide and yellow iron oxide, and spherical black iron oxide were used.

[0044] [Table 2]

[0045] [Table 3]

[0046] [Table 4]

[0047] [Table 5]

[0048] [Table 6]

[0049] Table 7

[0050] Table 8

[0051] Table 9

Claims

1. (A) 10-50% by mass of iron oxide (B) 2-40% by mass of yellow organic pigment (C) Oil phase of 4-15% by mass (D) 0.1 to 3% by mass of pigment-grade titanium oxide A solid powder cosmetic composition comprising (C) wherein the viscosity of (C) is less than 2500 mPa·s.

2. 27 < L * <60, 8<a * <21, 7<b * A solid powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, having 47 shades.

3. The solid powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil phase (C) contains one or more selected from phenyl trimethicone, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, dimethicone, squalane, octyldodecanol, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, jojoba seed oil, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and diphenyldimethicone.

4. The solid powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which does not contain any powders with a refractive index of 1.7 or higher, other than the iron oxide in (A) and the pigment-grade titanium oxide in (D).

5. The solid powder cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the iron oxide in (A) contains yellow iron oxide, and the mass ratio of yellow iron oxide to the yellow organic pigment in (B) is 1:0.2 to 2.5.