How to manufacture dress shirts

Abstract

This invention provides a method for manufacturing dress shirts that allows for accurate assessment of the client's body shape using a simple method, enabling the production of highly fitted dress shirts. [Solution] The method for manufacturing a dress shirt comprises: a first step of putting a piece of fabric having an apron portion 12, a back portion 13, and a through-hole portion 14 located between the apron portion and the back portion, through the through-hole portion and placing the fabric over the client so that the apron portion is located in front of the client and the back portion is located behind the client; a second step of inserting a first pin to sew the apron portion and the back portion together at a position directly above the client's shoulder, in accordance with the slope of the client's shoulder; a third step of inserting a second pin to sew the apron portion and the back portion together at a position under the client's armpit; a fourth step of marking the position of the client's armpit on the fabric; and a fifth step of removing the fabric from the client and reflecting it on a pattern.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing dress shirts. Background Art

[0002] A method for manufacturing a dress shirt is disclosed (see, for example, Patent Document 1). In this dress shirt manufacturing method, a dress shirt body formed by sewing together a yoke, a back body and a front body, several types of collars with different sizes, sleeves, and several types of cuffs with different sizes are prepared in advance. Thereafter, the purchaser's body shape is measured, and according to the measurement results, adjustment of the neck opening of the dress shirt body, adjustment of the sleeve cap corresponding to the neck opening, and adjustment of the sleeve dimension are performed. Thereafter, the cuffs matching the purchaser are sewn to the sleeve ends, the collar matching the purchaser is attached to the dress shirt body, and the sleeves are attached to the dress shirt body. Prior Art Documents Patent Documents

[0003] Patent Document 1 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. Hei 8-60401 Disclosure of the Invention Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0004] In this dress shirt manufacturing method, the number of measurement sites is inevitably limited, so the dimensions of unmeasured sites can only be estimated. For this reason, there has been a problem that the requester cannot feel sufficient fitting comfort. In addition, differences in body shape that cannot be grasped by measurement (such as sloping shoulders or square shoulders) could not be reflected in the dress shirt.

[0005] An object of the present invention is to provide a dress shirt manufacturing method that can accurately grasp the requester's body shape with a simple method and provide a dress shirt with high fitting comfort. Means for Solving the Problems

[0006] The above problem is solved as follows. That is, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt of the present invention (1) is a first step of putting a fabric having an apron portion, a back portion, and a through hole portion provided between the apron portion and the back portion over the customer by passing the customer's head through the through hole portion and placing the fabric over the customer so that the apron portion is located on the front side of the customer and the back portion is located on the rear side of the customer, A second step involves inserting a first pin so as to sew the front and back sections together at a position directly above the shoulder, in accordance with the slope of the client's shoulder. A third step involves inserting a second pin at the armpit of the client so as to sew the apron portion and the back portion together, A fourth step involves marking the location of the client's armpit on the fabric, The fifth step involves removing the aforementioned fabric from the client and incorporating it into the pattern, It is equipped with.

[0007] Furthermore, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (2) of the present invention is the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (1), comprising a first sub-step of inserting a third pin into the back strap so as to form a first dart at the position of at least one of the left and right shoulder blades of the client, after the third step and before the fourth step.

[0008] Furthermore, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (3) of the present invention is the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (1) or (2), A second sub-step is provided, after the third step and before the fourth step, in which a fourth pin is driven into the back portion to form a second dart at a position on the back below at least one of the left and right shoulder blades of the client.

[0009] Furthermore, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (4) of the present invention is the method for manufacturing a dress shirt described in (1), At least one of the front and rear sections has a vertical line extending vertically from the through-hole.

[0010] Furthermore, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (5) of the present invention is the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to (1) or (4), At least one of the apron portion and the hind portion has a horizontal line extending in the lateral direction.

[0011] Furthermore, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to the present invention (6) is the method for manufacturing a dress shirt described in (1), The fabric has a shoulder line that extends to the boundary between the apron portion and the back portion. [Effects of the Invention]

[0012] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a method for manufacturing dress shirts that can accurately grasp the client's body shape in a simple manner and provide a dress shirt with a high degree of fit. [Brief explanation of the drawing]

[0013] [Figure 1] This is a plan view of the fabric used in the manufacturing method of the dress shirt according to the embodiment. [Figure 2] Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the first step, where the fabric shown is placed over the client. [Figure 3] Figure 2 is a perspective view showing the second step in tracing the shape of the client's shoulder by placing a first pin directly above the client's shoulder on the fabric shown. [Figure 4] Figure 3 is a perspective view showing the third step in tracing the shape of the client's waist and back by placing a second pin under the client's armpits on the fabric shown. [Figure 5] Figure 4 is a perspective view showing the fabric in the middle of the first sub-process, where the first dart is formed at the position of the scapula. [Figure 6] Figure 5 is a perspective view showing the fabric in the middle of the second sub-process, where the second dart is formed at the back below the shoulder blade. [Figure 7] Figure 5 is a perspective view showing the fabric after the fourth step, in which the position of the client's armpit is marked on the fabric. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0014] A method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to the present embodiment will be described below with reference to the drawings. The method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to the present embodiment relates to a method for manufacturing a so-called made-to-order dress shirt in which a dress shirt is manufactured based on a request from a requester, and enables manufacturing of a dress shirt by accurately tracing the body shape of the requester (orderer) without excessively relying on measurement using a measuring tape. In the present embodiment, the following description will proceed with the front direction of the requester defined as F, the rear direction defined as B, the right direction defined as R, the left direction defined as L, and the width direction defined as W.

[0015] As shown in FIG. 1, a fabric 11 used in the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to the present embodiment includes a front hanging portion 12, a rear hanging portion 13, a through hole portion 14 provided at a position between the front hanging portion 12 and the rear hanging portion 13, a pair of shoulder lines 15 extending at a boundary position between the front hanging portion 12 and the rear hanging portion 13, and a pair of shoulder protruding portions 16 provided near the position of the requester's shoulder. The fabric 11 is made of common cotton and configured as a square fabric. The material of the fabric 11 is not limited to cotton, and may naturally be synthetic fiber such as polyester.

[0016] The through hole portion 14 is provided in a central portion of the fabric 11. The through hole portion 14 may have any shape, but is formed to have a size large enough to allow the requester's head to pass through. In the present embodiment, the through hole portion 14 is formed in a polygonal shape as an example. The fabric 11 further has a notch 17 (slit) of a predetermined length extending forward from the through hole portion 14. The notch 17 makes it easy to pass the requester's head through the through hole portion 14 when the fabric 11 is put on the requester, and also makes it easy to remove the fabric 11 from the requester when detaching the fabric 11 from the requester.

[0017] The pair of shoulder lines 15 are provided on both sides with the through hole portion 14 interposed therebetween. The pair of shoulder lines 15 extend laterally (in the width direction W) from the through hole portion 14. The pair of shoulder lines 15 may be pre-creased so that mountain folding can be performed at these positions.

[0018] A pair of shoulder openings 16 are formed spanning the front and back sections 12 and 13. The shoulder openings 16 are narrower towards the center than the rest of the front or back section 13 in the width direction W. Therefore, the shoulder openings 16 allow workers to easily access the client's shoulder area during the shirt manufacturing process. The shoulder openings 16 may be omitted.

[0019] The apron portion 12 is formed in the shape of a roughly rectangular apron or curtain. The apron portion 12 has lines running vertically and horizontally. That is, the apron portion 12 has a horizontal line 22 extending horizontally from its center and a vertical line 21 extending vertically from its center. The vertical line 21 is connected to a notch 17 at its upper end.

[0020] The rear hanging portion 13 is formed in the shape of a roughly rectangular apron or curtain. The rear hanging portion 13 has vertical and horizontal lines. That is, the rear hanging portion 13 has a horizontal line 22 extending horizontally from its center and a vertical line 21 extending vertically from its center. The vertical line 21 is connected to the through hole portion 14 at its upper end.

[0021] Next, the manufacturing method of the dress shirt according to this embodiment will be described. In the first step, the fabric 11 shown in Figure 1 is attached to the client's body. As shown in Figure 2, the client's head is passed through the through-hole 14 so that the apron portion 12 is positioned on the front of the client and the back portion 13 is positioned on the back of the client. At this time, the fabric 11 is positioned so that the shoulder line 15 is correctly positioned on the line of the client's shoulders.

[0022] In the first step, the worker checks whether the vertical line 21 is correctly positioned on the client's midline when viewed from the front and back of the client. If the vertical line 21 is misaligned with the client's midline (position of the navel, position of the spine), the worker can adjust the positions of the front and back parts 12 and 13 as needed to align them with the client's body.

[0023] In the first step, the worker checks whether the horizontal line 22 is tilted from the horizontal when viewed from the front and back of the client. If there is a significant difference in the tilt of the horizontal line 22 relative to the horizontal between the left and right sides of the client's body, the worker takes this into consideration as a significant difference between the left and right sides of the client's body.

[0024] Next, in the second step, the worker traces the slope of the client's shoulders. Specifically, as shown in Figure 3, the worker places the first pins 31 directly above the client's shoulders, so as to sew the front apron 12 and the back apron 13 together. One first pin 31 is sufficient, but it is preferable to use multiple pins to accurately trace the curve of the shoulders. The main point is that the shape (sloping shoulders, broad shoulders, etc.) and slope of the client's shoulders should be accurately traced. If necessary, the locations where the first pins 31 have been placed may be marked on the fabric 11 with a pencil or pen.

[0025] Next, in the third step, the worker traces the shape of the client's armpits and stomach area. Specifically, as shown in Figure 4, the worker places a second pin 32 at the client's armpit to sew the front part 12 and the back part 13 together. Furthermore, the worker places another second pin 32 at the client's flank (side) to sew the front part 12 and the back part 13 together. This traces the client's body shape from the armpit to the flank. If necessary, the locations where the second pins 32 were placed may be marked on the fabric 11 with a pencil or pen.

[0026] Next, after the third step and before the fourth step, the worker may, if necessary, perform sub-steps (first sub-step, second sub-step) to form the dart. The first sub-step forms the dart at the client's shoulder blade, and the second sub-step forms the dart at the client's back, below the shoulder blade.

[0027] The combination of these first and second sub-processes is arbitrary; one may perform only the first sub-process, only the second sub-process, both the first and second sub-processes, or neither. In other words, if the client desires an overall fit, both the first and second sub-processes may be performed, or if the client does not require such a close fit, both may be omitted. Alternatively, if the client desires a fit only around the shoulders, only the first sub-process may be performed, or if the client desires a fit only around the stomach or back, only the second sub-process may be performed.

[0028] As the first sub-step, the worker inserts a third pin 33 into the back panel 13 to form a first dart 35 at the position of at least one of the client's shoulder blades, as shown in Figure 5. The first dart 35 is formed diagonally, extending downward from the position of the client's shoulder blade towards the outside of the client's back. Normally, the first dart 35 is formed on the left half of the body, and a symmetrical shirt is manufactured based on this. However, if there is a significant difference between the left and right sides of the client, the third pin 33 may be inserted to form the first dart 35 on the right half as well as the left half. In addition, if necessary, the outline of the first dart 35 may be marked on the fabric 11 with a pencil or pen. Note that the first dart 35 is sewn into the seam between the yoke and the back panel in the finished shirt, and is therefore located in a position where it is not visible from the outside.

[0029] As a second sub-step, the worker inserts a fourth pin 34 into the back pocket to form a second dart 36 at the back, below at least one of the client's shoulder blades, as shown in Figure 6. The second dart 36 is formed diagonally, extending downwards from the back below the shoulder blades towards the outside of the client's back. Normally, the second dart 36 is formed on the left half of the body, and this is used to manufacture a symmetrical shirt. However, if there is a significant difference between the left and right sides of the client, the fourth pin 34 may be inserted to form the second dart 36 on the right half as well as the left half. Additionally, if necessary, the outline of the second dart 36 may be marked on the fabric 11 with a pencil or pen. The third dart 36 will be formed at the back of the finished shirt.

[0030] Next, in the fourth step, the worker marks the position of the client's armpit on the fabric 11, as shown in Figure 7. This can be done by writing the position of the armpit on the fabric 11 with a pen or the like, or by directly cutting the fabric 11 with scissors to expose the client's shoulder and using the cut end of the fabric 11 to determine (mark) the position of the client's armpit.

[0031] Next, in the fifth step, the fabric 11, which has been traced to the client's body in this manner, is removed from the client. In other words, in the fifth step, the fabric 11 can be removed from the client by pulling it upwards from the client.

[0032] Furthermore, in the fifth step, the dimensions of the fabric 11 are reflected in the pattern, and an actual dress shirt is manufactured based on the pattern. Of course, the fabric 11 itself can also be used as the pattern. Therefore, the phrase "reflecting in the pattern" in this invention includes the concept of transferring the dimensional relationships to a pattern prepared separately from the fabric 11, or using the fabric 11 itself as the pattern.

[0033] Furthermore, if necessary, it is desirable to take measurements of several points on the client's body using a measuring tape, just as with conventional custom-made dress shirts. This prevents problems such as manufacturing a dress shirt with dimensions traced on the fabric 11 that are significantly different from the actual measurements taken with a measuring tape, as is the case in this embodiment. In other words, by comparing the dimensions traced in this embodiment with the actual measurements taken with a measuring tape, it is possible to manufacture a dress shirt that is more accurate and has a better fit.

[0034] According to this embodiment, the following can be said. The method for manufacturing a dress shirt comprises: a first step of putting a piece of fabric 11 having an apron portion 12, a back portion 13, and a through-hole portion 14 located between the apron portion 12 and the back portion 13, through the through-hole portion 14 and placing the fabric over the client so that the apron portion 12 is located in front of the client and the back portion 13 is located behind the client; a second step of inserting a first pin 31 to sew the apron portion 12 and the back portion 13 together at a position directly above the client's shoulder, in accordance with the slope of the client's shoulder; a third step of inserting a second pin 32 to sew the apron portion 12 and the back portion 13 together at a position under the client's armpit; a fourth step of marking the position of the client's armpit on the fabric 11; and a fifth step of removing the fabric 11 from the client and reflecting it on a pattern.

[0035] Traditionally, custom-made dress shirts were manufactured by measuring several points on the customer's body using a measuring tape to understand their body shape. However, this method had the problem of limiting the measurement points to only a few, and there was no way to manufacture shirts in areas that were not measured except by guesswork. Furthermore, there was no way to determine the slope of the shoulders other than using a spirit level. However, there are significant individual differences in shoulder shape, such as sloping shoulders or broad shoulders, in addition to the angle of the slope, and it had not been possible to provide dress shirts that fit properly until now.

[0036] According to the above configuration, the client's body shape can be traced using the fabric 11, following its contours. In particular, the shoulder slope and shape, which could not be grasped by conventional methods, can be accurately traced using the first pin 31, etc. As a result, the present invention can provide a dress shirt with an improved fit.

[0037] In this case, the procedure includes a first sub-step, after the third step and before the fourth step, in which a third pin 33 is driven into the back portion 13 to form a first dart 35 at the position of at least one of the client's left and right shoulder blades.

[0038] With this configuration, by placing the first dart 35 at the position of the shoulder blade, a dress shirt with an even better fit around the shoulder blade can be manufactured through a simple process.

[0039] In this case, a second sub-step is provided, after the third step and before the fourth step, in which a fourth pin 34 is driven into the back portion 13 to form a second dart 36 at a position on the back below at least one of the left and right shoulder blades of the client.

[0040] This configuration allows for the manufacture of dress shirts with an improved fit around the stomach and back through a simple process.

[0041] In this case, at least one of the front portion 12 and the rear portion 13 has a vertical line 21 extending vertically from the through hole portion 14.

[0042] With this configuration, by aligning the vertical lines with the client's midline (for example, the position of the navel or spine), the fabric 11 can be positioned correctly on the client's body. This allows for a more accurate understanding of the client's body shape.

[0043] At least one of the front strap portion 12 and the back strap portion 13 has a horizontal line 22 that extends laterally.

[0044] With this configuration, by placing the fabric 11 over the client and observing the angle at which the horizontal line 22 is offset from the horizontal plane, it is possible to determine if there is a difference in the left and right sides of the client's body shape. This makes it possible to manufacture a dress shirt that takes the client's left-right differences into account.

[0045] The fabric 11 has a shoulder line 15 that extends to the boundary between the front apron portion 12 and the back apron portion 13.

[0046] This configuration allows for a more accurate tracing of the client's body shape by positioning the shoulder line 15 to match the shoulder line. This enables the production of dress shirts with a better fit.

[0047] Of course, the method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to this embodiment can be carried out with various modifications. [Explanation of Symbols]

[0048] 11 Fabric 12 Apron section 13 Rear attachment part 14 Through hole 15 shoulder line 16 Shoulder-exposing section 21 Vertical lines 22 horizontal lines 31. Pin 1 32 Pin 2 33. Pin 3 34. Pin 4 35 First Dart 36. Second Dart

Claims

1. A first step involves placing a piece of fabric, which has a front portion, a back portion, and a through-hole located between the front portion and the back portion, over the client by passing the client's head through the through-hole, so that the front portion is positioned in front of the client and the back portion is positioned behind the client. The second step involves inserting a first pin so as to sew the front and back sections together at a position directly above the shoulder, in accordance with the slope of the client's shoulder. A third step involves inserting a second pin at the armpit of the client so as to sew the apron portion and the back portion together, A fourth step involves marking the location of the client's armpit on the fabric, The fifth step involves removing the aforementioned fabric from the client and incorporating it into the pattern, A method for manufacturing a dress shirt that includes the following features.

2. A method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to claim 1, further comprising a first sub-step of inserting a third pin into the back portion so as to form a first dart at the position of at least one of the left or right shoulder blades of the client, after the third step and before the fourth step.

3. A method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a second sub-step, after the third step and before the fourth step, of inserting a fourth pin into the back portion to form a second dart at a position on the back below at least one of the left and right shoulder blades of the client.

4. The method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the front apron portion and the rear apron portion has a vertical line extending vertically from the through hole portion.

5. The method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to claim 1 or claim 4, wherein at least one of the front apron portion and the back apron portion has a horizontal line extending in the horizontal direction.

6. The method for manufacturing a dress shirt according to claim 1, wherein the fabric has a shoulder line extending to the boundary between the front apron portion and the back apron portion.

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