Cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural resin and a crystallizable fatty substance

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, at least one natural resin, and at least one crystalline fatty substance; and to the use of such a composition to improve the durability and / or abrasion resistance of a film obtained by applying the composition to a keratinous substance.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one natural resin, at least one volatile oil, at least one volatile alcohol, and at least one crystallizable fatty substance. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for applying such a cosmetic composition to keratinous substances, particularly human keratinous substances, such as skin, hair, or eyelashes. [Background technology]

[0002] Cosmetics often require the use of film-forming polymers so that the coating obtained from this product exhibits good cosmetic properties on keratinous materials. This film-forming coating must have good durability, not transfer to hands or clothing, exhibit good resistance to water, especially rain or showers, and be unaffected by sweat, sebum, and dietary fats, particularly oils.

[0003] Film-forming agents commonly used in makeup products such as mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow, or lipstick are dispersions of polymers, generally acrylic polymer particles, in an organic medium such as hydrocarbon oil. Silicone resins are also used to improve the longevity of makeup. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of resistance to fatty substances, especially dietary fats or sebum, which can limit their use, for example, in lip makeup.

[0004] Furthermore, the field of cosmetic formulations is changing rapidly. Consumers are seeking reassurance regarding the ingredients in cosmetic formulations, particularly their harmlessness, low environmental footprint, origin, or renewable nature, and they expect the use of more natural ingredients. In recent years, replacing synthetic polymers, especially silicones, in cosmetic formulations has become a major challenge.

[0005] While the use of certain natural resins, such as rosin (corohony resin), as tackifying resins has already been considered, this requires combining them with a high proportion of silicone resin, for example, to enhance the shine and longevity of lip makeup (Patent Document 1). However, several problems that arise from using this type of component are discussed in (Patent Document 2), for example: it has been observed that increasing the amount of silicone resin often causes the cosmetic film to lose its flexibility; and increasing the amount of rosin results in a sticky effect on the cosmetic film. As a result, the makeup becomes "heavy," thick, and clumpy.

[0006] Consumers have become accustomed to certain sensory properties and textures characteristic of, for example, silicone and synthetic polymer fillers. Therefore, cosmetic chemists must address two challenges: firstly, the challenge of naturalness, which involves gradually replacing silicone resins and synthetic polymers with more natural starting materials or materials originating from more natural sources; and secondly, the challenge of performance and sensation, which involves ensuring that the more natural formulations have at least equivalent efficacy and sensory properties to the less natural formulations they are replacing.

[0007] Finally, a technical challenge remains in successfully incorporating natural resins, which are solid at room temperature (25°C), into cosmetics having a fluid, liquid texture. Typically, natural resins are said to be soluble in chlorinated solvents, benzene compounds, or large amounts of alcohol. Such solvents cannot be considered for cosmetic use in caring for or making up the skin, especially the lips. In this application, even ethanol, above a certain content, tends to cause discomfort, dryness, irritation, or even a burning sensation on the skin. Therefore, the present invention also aims to enable and simplify the preparation of cosmetic compositions with improved persistence, using ingredients as close to nature as possible, in cosmetically acceptable media.

[0008] Furthermore, formulating environmentally friendly cosmetics—that is, products designed and developed with environmental issues in mind—has become a major priority in contributing to the resolution of global challenges.

[0009] Therefore, it is essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation methods and / or components, thereby addressing these environmental challenges.

[0010] In this context, it is particularly important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or have a good index of naturalness and / or are naturally derived, more specifically plant-derived, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0011] [Patent Document 1] French Patent No. 2918272 Specification [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2013 / 147113 Pamphlet [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0012] These problems can be solved by using the cosmetic compositions described below, which exhibit good compatibility, good cosmetic properties, and in particular good makeup properties such as coverage or matte finish, and good functional properties, with good resistance to friction, water, oil and / or sebum in a dry state. A particular object of the present invention is to provide compositions, particularly emulsions, that exhibit good resistance in a dry state, water resistance and / or oil resistance.

[0013] These compositions, after application, leave a coating that optionally forms a homogeneous film with good abrasion resistance. The formed film has adhesive and cohesive properties, and exhibits improved resistance in dry conditions, water resistance, and / or oil resistance.

[0014] These compositions also contain sustainable ingredients and therefore can address environmental challenges.

[0015] In particular, the object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in which the film remaining after application adheres well to keratin substances, is non-sticky, exhibits good durability against external aggressive factors such as friction, shows resistance to sweat and sebum, and is relatively unaffected by oils such as edible oils.

[0016] Surprisingly, the inventors have shown that a specific combination of volatile alcohol and volatile oil can effectively solubilize natural resins, such as resins that are semi-solid or solid at room temperature (25°C), and that when this is combined with a crystalline fatty substance, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic composition in which the resulting film exhibits particularly high resistance to friction, water, and oil in a dry state, better coverage and homogeneity, and a matting effect. [Means for solving the problem]

[0017] This invention relates to the use of physiologically acceptable media in: a- At least one type of volatile oil, b- At least one volatile alcohol, c- At least one type of natural resin, and d- At least one crystallizable fatty substance This relates to a cosmetic composition (A) that includes [the specified ingredient].

[0018] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of volatile oils and volatile alcohols to the amount of natural resin is greater than 1.

[0019] Preferably, the present invention is in a physiologically acceptable medium: a- At least one type of volatile oil, b- At least one volatile alcohol, c- At least one type of natural resin, and d- At least one crystallizable fatty substance Includes, - The mass ratio of volatile oil to natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or - The mass ratio of volatile alcohol to natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1. This relates to cosmetic composition (A).

[0020] The present invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one oily phase of the cosmetic composition (A) defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium. The oily phase of the present invention is preferably a continuous phase.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a method for coating a keratinous substance, and more particularly, a method for makeup and / or care of a keratinous substance such as skin, characterized by comprising applying a composition defined according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

[0022] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to the use of compositions defined in accordance with the present invention for the purpose of improving the durability and / or abrasion resistance of a cosmetic film on the skin without increasing the stickiness of the cosmetic film obtained by applying the compositions to a keratin substance. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0023] The object of the present invention is as follows, unless otherwise specified: The term "keratinous material" is understood to mean skin, mucous membranes and / or body surface growth tissue. Preferably, keratinous material is skin, in particular facial skin, mucous membranes such as lips and / or skin appendages such as eyelashes.

[0024] The compositions according to the present invention may be cosmetic compositions or dermatological compositions. Preferably, these are cosmetic compositions.

[0025] The composition according to the present invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0026] In this invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a keratinous substance, particularly a non-toxic medium that is compatible with human skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair, or lips. The cosmetic composition is a product intended for topical application, having a pleasant appearance, scent, and feel.

[0027] The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 5% by mass of water, preferably less than 1% by mass of water, and more preferably less than 0.5% by mass of water, relative to the total mass of the composition, and in particular a composition that does not contain water.

[0028] In the present invention, the volatile oil or volatile alcohol preferably has a vapor pressure of 1.3 Pa or higher, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa or higher, and preferably 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, respectively, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0029] The term "volatile substance" refers to any substance that, upon contact with skin, can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile substance is a liquid at room temperature, and in particular, its vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is 2.66 Pa or higher, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0030] Vapor pressure can be measured according to the vapor pressure of the oil, either by a static method or by isothermal thermogravimetric spillage (OECD Standard 104).

[0031] The term "soluble or solubilized compound" refers to a compound that can dissolve in a liquid or is miscible and, when mixed in a liquid, forms only a single homogeneous phase.

[0032] Unless otherwise specified, the expressions "between... and..." and "within the range of..." should be understood to include boundary values.

[0033] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0034] In this specification and the examples, unless otherwise specified, the content and percentages are given as mass percentages. Therefore, the percentages are expressed as mass relative to the total mass of the composition. Ratios are similarly given as mass ratios. Temperatures are given in degrees Celsius unless otherwise specified, and pressures are given as atmospheric pressure unless otherwise specified.

[0035] Composition (A) - Oily phase According to the first aspect, the subject of the present invention is the composition defined above.

[0036] Surprisingly, the applicants have found that Composition A of the present invention, which comprises a natural resin, particularly a solubilized resin, in a specific mixture of volatile oils and volatile alcohols as defined below, in combination with a crystalline fatty substance, makes it possible to obtain a film that exhibits improved durability after drying, resistance to friction, water and sebum in a dry state, imparts a matting effect, and has good functional properties (non-sticky).

[0037] Natural resin Resins are generally defined as solid, high-viscosity, or liquid substances of plant or synthetic origin. Resins possess many properties unique to them, including those listed below: - For example, the ability to permanently harden under the action of temperature in the case of synthetic resins, and under the action of oxygen in the case of natural resins; - Insoluble in water, and above all, excellent tackiness and adhesion.

[0038] ISO standard 4618:2014(fr) defines resin as "a generally amorphous polymer product having a consistency ranging from solid to liquid."

[0039] Natural resins are virtually limited to those of plant origin (fossilized or extracted), which are secreted and later exuded by plants to serve defensive, protective, and communicative roles within their ecosystems. The exception is shellac, which is of animal origin and is secreted by the insect lac insect (Coccus lacca).

[0040] With regard to the purposes of this invention, "natural resin," and more particularly "plant-derived resin," means any substance containing terpene compounds in a minimum amount, as chemically defined below, that is, any substance containing terpene compounds in at least 30% by mass relative to the total mass of the substance (or material) in question. Such substances are obtained directly or indirectly by the secretion and exudation of substances that play a role in defense, protection, and communication within their ecosystems, mainly by plants (and less frequently by animals).

[0041] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the present invention is insoluble in water at room temperature (unlike, for example, latex or rubber).

[0042] Natural resins can also be considered natural adhesives, possessing the inherent ability to polymerize on their own in a consistent and predictable manner without the use of synthetic chemical reactions.

[0043] Preferably, the number-average molecular weight of the natural resin used in the composition according to the present invention is 10,000 g / mol or less. Preferably, the number-average molecular weight of this resin is 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractive index detector).

[0044] Thermal properties Advantageously, the resin according to the present invention is characterized by having a softening point, which refers to the temperature at which it transitions from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating.

[0045] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably in the range of 30°C to 100°C, and even more preferably in the range of 40°C to 90°C.

[0046] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a specific degree of softening under standardized conditions. This refers to the temperature at which a material transitions from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. This can be measured by the ring-spherical temperature (RBT) method for resins, according to ASTM standard E284.

[0047] The resins according to the present invention also have a melting temperature, which is preferably less than 360°C, more preferably less than 190°C, and even more preferably less than 90°C.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0049] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of that substance can coexist in equilibrium.

[0050] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a glass transition temperature in the range of preferably 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably 30°C to 70°C.

[0051] The glass transition (Tg) temperature of a material refers to the temperature range at which the material transitions from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (hard) state.

[0052] Thermal properties, particularly the Mp and Tg of resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example, using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 instrument, according to the following: - Procedure 1: Measurement of melting temperature Mp and crystallization temperature Tc: Starting material alone or dissolved / dispersed in a solvent, stainless steel pan, scanning from 5°C to 90°C, scanning speed 5°C·min-1. - Procedure 2: Measurement of glass transition temperature Tg: Measurement is performed during the second heating. An aluminum pan (40 μl) containing the starting material is used, and the temperature is scanned between -100°C and 150°C to observe the glass transition temperature (isothermal holding is performed). A heating gradient of 10°C / min is applied to determine the glass transition temperature (2 cycles).

[0053] Botanical definition of resin: Natural resins of plant or animal origin have traditionally been defined in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Synthetic” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGaA, Weinheim, DOI:10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2.

[0054] Natural resins can be classified according to their botanical aspects. Resins can be obtained from gymnosperms (plants with unencased seeds) and angiosperms (plants with encased seeds); the latter can be further divided into monocots (plants with one cotyledon) and dicots (plants with two cotyledons). These can also be selected according to their physical and chemical properties.

[0055] Examples of natural resins include, in particular, rosin (tall oil rosin, wood rosin or gum rosin derived from tree and plant exudates; wood extracts or papermaking by-products), fossil resins such as amber, extracted resins such as asphaltite, shellac produced by insect secretions, and their main derivatives.

[0056] The resin of the present invention is preferably derived from plants, and more particularly from plants or trees.

[0057] Fossil resins are (hard and semi-hard) resins extracted from the ground long after ancient forests have disappeared. Some are so rare that their exact origin is no longer known. Some fossil resins undergo significant chemical changes due to aging or maturation, a process that can take thousands of years. The transition from fossil resins to modern resins is diverse. These can include resins found in fossilized form as well as resins extracted from living plants. Semifossil species are collected at the base of the trees that produced them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Natural” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGaA, Weinheim, DOI:10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0058] The resins collected are living resins (soft). These are all collected from living plants. They are further subdivided according to their composition, as shown below: - Oleoresin: A natural solution in which resin is dissolved in essential oils; - Balsam: A resin characterized by a high proportion of benzoic acid, cinnamic acid, and esters; - Gum resin: A mixture of resin and hydrophilic gum; -Gum-resin: A mixture of resin and hydrophilic gum; - Latex: A milky white composition in which organic substances are dispersed in an aqueous medium (Techniques de l'Ingenieur [Engineering Techniques], “Resines Naturelles” [Natural Resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0059] Among the resins of the present invention, particularly among existing resins, resins soluble in oil and / or alcohol are preferred over water-soluble forms such as latex and gum.

[0060] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resins of the present invention are harvested resins, and since they are self-regenerating, the present invention is particularly advantageous from an ecological standpoint.

[0061] Preferably, the resin of the present invention is a living resin. Advantageously, the resin used in accordance with the present invention relies on resources that do not compete with resources intended for food applications. Advantageously, the resin used in the compositions of the present invention is derived from recycled by-products of the paper industry.

[0062] Chemical definition of resin Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several types of compounds: essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (found only in gums). The presence or absence and content of these compounds determine the classification of the resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.).

[0063] The defining components of the resin are the terpene compounds contained therein, preferably at least 30% by mass relative to the mass of the resin.

[0064] "Terpene compounds" are those with the general formula (C5H8) nTerpenes are hydrocarbons formed from isoprene and many of its derivatives containing a terpene structure (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) (Academie de Montpellier. Les resines [Resins]: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0065] Among terpene hydrocarbons: Monoterpenes with the empirical formula C 10 H 16 (n = 2), sesquiterpenes with the empirical formula C 15 H 24 (n = 3), diterpenes (C 20 H 32 )(n = 4), sesterterpenes (C 25 H 40 )(n = 5), triterpenes (C 30 H 48 )(n = 6), tetraterpenes (C 40 H 64 )(n = 8) and other polyterpenes are distinguished. Some have an acyclic structure, and these have multiple double bonds corresponding to their empirical formula: 3 in C 10 H 16 ; 5 in C 20 H 32 ; 7 in C 30 H 48 . Others have one or more rings, and accordingly the number of double bonds decreases. For example, C 10 H 16 has one ring and two double bonds or two rings and one double bond.

[0066] Advantageously, the resin of the present invention contains at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, preferably at least 50% by mass, more preferably at least 60% by mass, even better at least 70% by mass of terpene compounds, based on the total mass of the resin or resinous substance used as the starting material in the composition according to the present invention.

[0067] Most monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are volatile compounds, and these, for example, constitute essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n of 4 or greater (such as diterpene and triterpene derivatives) are resinous compounds with properties closer to those of a solid.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and preferably at least 35% by mass, of a polyterpene compound, i.e., a compound derived from a terpene where n is 4 or greater, based on the total mass of the resin (corresponding to 100%). Therefore, the resin preferably has a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C). Advantageously, the resin used according to the present invention is non-volatile.

[0069] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resin or resinous substance used in the composition of the present invention are mainly derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes (more than 50% by mass relative to the total mass of polyterpenes).

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin contains less than 70% by mass of a monoterpene or sesquiterpene compound, i.e., a compound derived from a terpene with n less than 4, based on the total mass of the resin (corresponding to 100%); preferably, the resin contains less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, and preferably less than 15% by mass of a monoterpene or sesquiterpene compound derived from a terpene with n less than 4, based on the total mass of the resin (corresponding to 100%). In other words, it is preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resin, which is less effective in terms of the durability of the cosmetic film, in the composition of the present invention.

[0071] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that can be contained in the natural resin of the present invention has been created. Each series of terpene compounds is subdivided and listed based on the characteristic groups (alcohol group, ketone group, acid group, etc.) of each compound (described below).

[0072] Examples of monoterpene compounds Advantageously, the monoterpene compounds of the resin are selected from α-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, camphene, dipentene, p-cymene, β-myrcene, α-phellandrene, sabinene, α-thugen, limonene, octyl ethaneate, neryl ethaneate, bornyl ethaneate, geranyl ethaneate, α-terpineol, cineole, linalool, borneol, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Examples of sesquiterpene compounds Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compounds of the resin are selected from: α-copaene, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-grujunene, α-grujunene, aloaromadendrene, β-bulbonene, δ-cadinene, α-guayene, α-elemene, β-elemene, d-elemene, α-copaene, α-selinene, β-selinene, β-bulbonene, lindestrene, furanoidesum-1,3-diene, α-cubeben, farnesol, α-elemol, viridiflorol, t-cadinol, β-elemol, germcron, cruzerenone, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Examples of diterpene compounds Advantageously, the diterpene compounds of the resin are selected from: abietic acid, pimaric acid, sandalopimaric acid, communic acid, levopimalic acid, pallustric acid, isopimaric acid, dehydroabietic acid, neoabietic acid, agate acid, sembren A, sembren C, isosembren, Vercilla-4(20),7,11-triene, incenthol, totarol, sandaracopymarinol, sembrenol, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Examples of triterpene compounds Advantageously, the triterpene compounds of the resin include: 3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammardienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), dammardiol I (or II), dammadienol, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-β-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, bentamic acid, ursolaldehyde, α-amylenone, α-amylin, β-amylin, ubal, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, moronic acid, oleanoaldehyde, acetyllupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, lupeol, Selected from betulonal, hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to a first embodiment of the present invention, the resin used in accordance with the present invention preferably comprises at least one diterpene compound derived from natural or chemically modified abietic acid.

[0077] Preferably, a diterpene compound, particularly a diterpene compound derived from abietic acid, is present in the resin in an amount of at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and more preferably at least 40% by mass, relative to the total mass of the natural resin.

[0078] In particular, examples include corophony resins (t), such as rodinates containing diterpene compounds.

[0079] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the resin used in place of or in addition to the first embodiment in accordance with the present invention preferably comprises at least one triterpene compound selected from the following triterpene compounds: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amylon, β-amylon, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolaldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonealdehyde, ursolic acid, oleanoic acid, oleanolic acid, lupeol, epilupeol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin is selected from frankincense resins, such as protium heptafilm or Shorea robusta resin, and resins extracted from vegetable waxes, such as candelilla resin.

[0080] The total content of triterpene compounds in the resin used according to the present invention, and in particular the content of the preferred triterpene compounds described above, is advantageously at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, more preferably at least 30% by mass, and more preferably at least 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the natural resin.

[0081] In particular, examples include frankincense resins (k), protium heptafilm, or Shorea robusta resins containing such triterpene compounds.

[0082] The chemical composition of the resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography (GC) analysis, chromatographic analysis using flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis using a mass spectrometer coupled with a gas chromatograph, preferably by GC-FID.

[0083] These general methods are described in the following paper: “Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS et GC / MS pour l'analyse des composes terpenoides presents dans les resines vegetales” [Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins], https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308.

[0084] Definitions of resins by origin: Advantageously, the natural resins according to the present invention are selected from: a) akaloid resins, b) amber, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) toru balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (especially kauri copal resin, Manila copal resin, West African copal, e.g., Congo, Angola or Cameroon copal, East African copal, e.g., Zanzibar or Madagascar copal, South African copal, e.g., Brazil or Colombia copal), i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax (strax), s) Venetian turpentine (larch, turpentine essential oil), t) rosins, especially rosin, rosinate and u) tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferably, the natural resin used in accordance with the present invention is selected from j), k), t), u), and v); preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k), and v) and mixtures thereof; it is understood that the resins of the present invention can be esterified, salt-formed, adduct-formed, phenol-modified and / or dimerized, and further hydrogenated.

[0086] j) Elemi "Elemi" is a general term defining a group of extant natural resins obtained from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the elemi resin used is from the Philippines, particularly Manila elemi. When the tree is wounded to extract it, a pathological resin appears and hardens over time. Elemi is yellow to greenish in color, opaque, pomade-like, slimy, sticky, and hardens into a brownish resin with scattered crystals.

[0087] Elemi is soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon disulfide; it is not very soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemi has an acid value of 18-34, a saponification value of 25-60, and a softening point of approximately 80. The balsam extracted from elemi contains up to 30% essential oils.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from elemi, particularly from the Canarium luzonicum lineage, which is either in pure form or mixed with latex, for example. Canarium luzonicum elemi resin, which is sold under the name ELEMI RESIN, is an example.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from j) Elemi.

[0090] k) Frankincense (olibanum) Frankincense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and East India. Frankincense resin is a living resin extracted from the frankincense tree, Boswellia carterii. Amazonian frankincense also exists. To obtain a milky white extract, the bark is intentionally damaged, dried, and then collected. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, particularly Amazonian frankincense.

[0091] Frankincense resin is pale yellow and forms irregular circular or spherical granules. These are usually boswellic acid (C) 32 H 52 It contains 20% to 40% (approximately 33%) of O4. Frankincense has an acid value between 30% and 50% (indirect method) and exhibits moderate solubility in ethanol in a basic medium.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from frankincense, in particular from frankincense resins from the Amazon River basin that are sold under the names of Protium heputaphyllum resin, Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and frankincense resins derived from Shorea robusta.

[0093] Advantageously, the resin is a mixture of one or more fatty substances as defined below in accordance with the present invention, preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, Kahlresin 6720 contains Shorea robusta resin, sunflower seed oil, and tocopherol: 50-75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin and 25-50% by mass of sunflower seed oil. Also, KAHLWAX sells Shorea robusta resin and octyldodecanol: 50-70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin and 30-50% by mass of octyldodecanol.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from k) frankincense.

[0095] t) Rosin Preferably, the natural resin is selected from rosin. Rosin is a living resin obtained from renewable resources and is modifiable (e.g., esterification, hydrogenation, substitution).

[0096] Gum rosin is preferably obtained by purifying and distilling balsam from various types of pine (up to 80 types).

[0097] These compositions are determined by climate, soil composition, and other plant and meteorological factors. For example, the European black pine (Pinus austriaca) from Austria and Central America, the Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea) from the United States and the Caribbean, the Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora) from Japan, the American slash pine (Pinus elliottii) from the United States, the Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis) from Greece, Portugal, and Spain, the Himalayan pine (Pinus langifolia) from India, the Matricima (Maritama pine) from France, Spain, and Portugal, the Manchurian red pine (Pinus massoniana) from China, the Merkus pine (Pinus merkusii) from Indonesia, Burma, and the Philippines, and the European black pine (Pinus Rosins derived from various species include Japanese black pine (Pinus nigra), Central American and Honduran pine (Pinus oocarpa), American longleaf pine (Pinus palustris) (swamp pine), longleaf pine (Pinus pseudostrobus) from Central America and Mexico, European red pine (Pinus sylvestris) from Germany and Poland, Chinese pine (Pinus tonkinensis), and Chinese pine (Pinus yunnanensis).

[0098] The average composition is approximately 70-75% rosin and 20-25% turpentine essential oil.

[0099] Wood Rosin [8050-09-7] Rosin is obtained from tree stumps that have been left underground for at least 10 years in the United States, allowing for the extraction of resin-rich heartwood.

[0100] The pine stump contains 10% to 30% by mass (approximately 19%) of rosin, 1% to 10% by mass (preferably 4%) of turpentine oil, 1% to 10% by mass (preferably 4%) of a resin insoluble in petroleum ether, 20% to 30% by mass (preferably 23%) of water, and 40% to 60% by mass (preferably 50%) of celluloses and lignins.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin.

[0102] u) Tall oil rosin (rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6] Tall oil rosin often contains small amounts of higher fatty acids, particularly those with six or more carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, tall oil rosin does not contain oxocarboxylic acids. These are especially soluble in organic solvents.

[0103] The corohony resin of the present invention particularly contains rosin acid, which belongs to the terpenes. The numbering of carbon atoms within the molecule of rosin acid is shown using abietic acid as an example.

[0104] The chemical formula for the rosinic acid molecule is C 20 H 30 It is O2 and therefore belongs to the diterpene group (four isoprene units). Tricyclic rosinic acid has many isomers in which the positions of the two double bonds differ.

[0105] Advantageously, the resin according to the present invention is selected from gum rosin obtained by making incisions in living trees, wood rosin extracted from pine wood and stumps, and tall oil ("tall oil rosin") obtained from by-products derived from papermaking. Advantageously, the resin is selected from rosin acids, preferably mainly from abietic acid and pimaric acid type acids, and in particular from levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid, or pallustric acid and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Rosin derivatives can be derived, in particular, by polymerization, hydrogenation, and / or esterification of rosin acid (e.g., with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, or pentaerythritol). Examples include rosin esters sold by Hercules under the reference names Foral 85, Pentalyn H, and Staybelite Ester 10; by Arizona Chemical under the reference names Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85; or by Union Camp under the reference name Unirez 3013.

[0107] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosinates (salts of rosinic acid with an alkaline agent, particularly salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0108] According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin acid esters, particularly esters of rosin acid as defined above and polyhydric (C1-C6) alkane polyols such as (C1-C6) alkanols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from glyceryl rosinate sold under the name Resiester Gum A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil (glyceryl rosinate, castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil sold by EFP Biotek), pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the names Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80.

[0109] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkanes or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6)alkane adducts, particularly adducts of maleic acid and rosinic acid.

[0110] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from phenol-modified rosins. These are particularly rosins modified with (C1-C4) alkylenephenols or diphenols and optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups, such as methyl or tert-butyl, and more specifically, rosins modified with 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

[0111] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from dimerized rosin, particularly polymerized abietic acid. The rosin preferably contains more than 50% of the dimerized acid and is therefore referred to as dimerized rosin. According to one embodiment, the rosin is polymerized and contains 30% to 90% by mass of the dimerized acid (in particular, at least 40%, 60%, or 80%).

[0112] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the resin is selected from hydrogenated rosin. Double bonds, particularly those of acids such as abietic acid, are susceptible to oxidation, but these can be removed by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resins of the present invention can be esterified, salted (salified), adducted, phenol-modified and / or dimerized, and further hydrogenated.

[0113] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises an ester of at least one rosin acid selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl rosinate, hexa(hydroxystearate / stearate / rosinate)dipentaerythrityl, (dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate)glyceryl, (diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate)glyceryl, glyceryl trihydrogenated rosinate, glycol rosinate, methyl hydrogenated rosinate, methyl rosinate, pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosinate, triethylene glycol hydrogenated rosinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] According to certain embodiments, the resin of the present invention is selected from pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosinate and methyl hydrogenated rosinate, which is sold under the name Symrise BIO4326.

[0115] Furthermore, the resin of the present invention can be mixed with fatty substances c) as defined below, particularly wax or butter.

[0116] A mixture of glyceryl rosinate and one or more fatty substances (c) particularly selected from waxes or butters, such as a mixture with shea butter or olive oil, for example, (glyceryl rosinate, castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil), sold as Shea Butter & Glyceryl Rosinate & Oils, can be cited as shea butter glyceryl rosinate, olive oil unsaponifiable matter.

[0117] v) Resins extracted from vegetable waxes Natural plant waxes themselves are not considered resins. While they are substances secreted / excreted by plants, natural waxes have a very low resin content, with terpene content being less than 30% by mass of the total wax. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted from the leaves of the palm tree Copernica cerifera to prevent the leaves from drying out. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica, which is native to northern Mexico. Waxes protect plants from the environment and prevent excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax is mainly composed of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29-33 carbon atoms), high molecular weight esters (20-29%), free acids (7-9%), and resins (12-14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0118] However, resins obtained from plant waxes are also included in the definition of "natural resin" for the purposes of this invention, provided that they are concentrated, isolated, or extracted from these waxes beforehand, and the resinous or terpene components in question contain the minimum amount of terpenes required for this invention (30% by mass of the total mass of the components). An example is the candelilla resin (100% pure resin, extracted from the relevant wax) sold by Nippon Natural Products under the name Candelilla Resin E-1, whose INCI name is Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract. International Publication No. 2013 / 147113A1 also mentions carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from carnauba wax, which has physical properties similar to those of conventionally described natural resins, such as not showing a melting temperature that distinguishes wax from resin, but showing a softening temperature.

[0119] Table 1 of the Examples shows several characteristic differences in the thermal properties of the wax and resin according to the present invention.

[0120] Resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but they do not exhibit a melting temperature.

[0121] Wax, on the other hand, has a melting point.

[0122] The resin is preferably selected from the resins j), k), and t) defined above, as well as resin v) extracted from waxes, particularly candelilla wax or carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k), t), u), and v) and mixtures thereof; preferably, it is selected from j), k), and v) and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Preferred resin according to the present invention: According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from those having the following reference names (indicated by their INCI names) and is used alone or in mixtures: - Euphorbia cerifera (Candellila) wax extract, for example, Candelilla Resin E-1 sold by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd., Botanical Resin sold by Cerarica Noda Co., Ltd., and TOWAX-1F12 (Type V resin) sold by Toa Kasei Co., Ltd. - Protium heptaphyllum resin, protium resin, or white breu resin, for example, those sold by Citroleo or Ephyla (type k resin); - Shorea robusta resin, a frankincense resin derived from the Shorea robusta tree. This resin may be a mixture of one or more fatty substances c) selected from the following, preferably volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, examples include Shorea robusta resin containing sunflower seed oil, Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, and tocopherol, sold under the name Kahlresin 6720: 50-75% by mass of Shorea robusta resin and 25-50% by mass of sunflower seed oil; and Shorea robusta resin containing octyldodecanol, sold by KAHLWAX: 50-70% by mass of Shorea robusta resin and 30-50% by mass of octyldodecanol (Type K resin). - Rosinate esters, for example, glyceryl rosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl rosinate as a mixture with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil (glyceryl rosinate sold under the name EFP BIOTEK, castor oil (RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL), hydrogenated vegetable oil (HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL)), pentaerythrityl rosinate sold under the names RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80, or hydrogenated rosinate esters, for example, pentaerythrityl hydrogenated rosinate, methyl hydrogenated rosinate sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326 (type t resin).

[0124] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one resin having an INCI name containing at least one of the following words: Euphorbia cerifera wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Protium heptafilm resin, Shorea robusta resin, or Glyceryl rosinate; and mixtures thereof; the resin is preferably Euphorbia cerifera wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Protium heptafilm resin, Shorea robusta resin RESIN; and mixtures thereof are selected.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from Euphorbia cerifera (Candellila) wax extract.

[0126] Advantageously, the resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 35% by mass, preferably 0.8% to 30% by mass, preferably 1% to 25% by mass, preferably 1.2% to 20% by mass, preferably 1.3% to 15% by mass, preferably 1.5% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 9% by mass, and preferably 3% to 8% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the composition.

[0127] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1% of synthetic resin, and preferably does not contain synthetic resin.

[0128] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention contains less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, and preferably not contains a silicone resin, i.e., a synthetic resin whose basic structure is a chain containing a siloxane group (silicon-oxygen-silicon bond).

[0129] oil The composition of the present invention comprises an oily phase, preferably a continuous oily phase containing at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] The aforementioned phase is at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 It is a liquid under Pa (in the absence of a structuring agent). It is an organic substance, i.e., it contains at least carbon and hydrogen atoms and is immiscible with water.

[0131] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and a component that is optionally soluble in or miscible with the phase.

[0132] The total concentration of the oily phase of the composition of the present invention is preferably in the range of 5% to 100% by mass, preferably 10% to 98% by mass, preferably 15% to 90% by mass, preferably 20% to 80% by mass, preferably 25% to 70% by mass, and preferably 30% to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0133] The term "oil" refers to oil at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 This refers to a water-immiscible compound that is a liquid under Pa (pressure).

[0134] "Immucality" means that, after mixing and stirring equal amounts of water and oil, a stable solution containing only a single phase is not formed under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. This observation is performed by generating a vortex in the mixture by thoroughly stirring 100 g of the mixture using a Rayneri blender (approximately 200-1000 rpm), allowing the resulting mixture to stand in a sealed flask at room temperature for 24 hours, and then observing it visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope.

[0135] Volatile oils The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is 1.3 Pa or higher, preferably 2.66 Pa or higher, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0136] In contrast, the term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero, but less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa.

[0137] For example, vapor pressure can be measured according to the vapor pressure of the oil, either by a static method or by an isothermal thermogravimetric analysis (OECD Standard 104).

[0138] The volatile oil is preferably present in an amount of 1% to 90% by mass, preferably 2% to 70% by mass, preferably 3% to 50% by mass, preferably 5% to 45% by mass, preferably 8% to 40% by mass, and more preferably 10% to 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0139] The volatile oil is advantageously selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0140] Volatile hydrocarbon oils The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and may contain one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl groups. In other words, hydrocarbon oils, as a result, do not contain silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0141] The term "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" refers to hydrocarbon oils (also called hydrocarbons) that contain only carbon and hydrogen atoms, and are preferably non-aromatic.

[0142] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxyl groups, i.e., an oil that has only C, H, and O.

[0143] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the present invention include the following: - Hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar® or Permethyl®. - C6-C, either alone or in a mixture. 16Straight-chain alkanes, for example, C 11 ~C 15 Alkanes, e.g., hexane, decane, undecane or tridecane; isoparaffins, e.g., C13-C16 isoparaffins, n-dodecane (C) sold by Sasol under the reference names Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively. 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), an undecane-tridecane mixture, n-undecane (C) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the patent application from Cognis, International Publication No. 2008 / 155059. 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) and mixtures thereof, and further, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ) and mixtures thereof, for example, Cetiol Ultimate® or Cetiol UT® from BASF; or alkanes of plant origin, especially coconut alkanes, for example, those sold by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight Silk, or those sold by Amyris under the name Neossance Hemisqualane CN. 13 ~C 15 A mixture of alkanes; - Volatile non-aromatic cyclic C5~C 12 Alkan; - Branch C8~C 16 Esters, isohexyl neopentanoate; - Short-chain esters (containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms), such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, or isobutyl acetate, such as those sold by Solvay, Dow, or Oxea; - A hydrocarbon oil that is a volatile carbonate ester having the structure R'1-O-CO-O-R'2 (wherein R'1 and R'2 independently represent a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group). It is also preferable that R'1 and R'2 are the same. Preferably, R'1 and R'2 represent a linear butyl alkyl group and a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dibutyl carbonate or diphenyl carbonate; - A volatile ether oil having the formula R1OR2 (wherein R1 and R2 independently represent a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group). It is also preferable that R1 and R2 are the same.

[0144] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl and pentyl groups. Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, t-butyl, and 1,1-dimethylpropyl groups. Advantageously, the ether oil is selected from dicaprylyl ether and dicapryl ether, most specifically from dicaprylyl ether.

[0145] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold by Shell under the name Shell Sol T; or volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in German Patent No. 102008012457, a patent application from Cognis, may also be used.

[0146] The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms (i.e., nonpolar hydrocarbon oils consisting only of carbon and hydrogen) and mixtures thereof, in particular: - Branched C8~C, either alone or in a mixture. 16 Alkanes, for example, isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and oils sold under trade names such as Isopar or Permethyl. - Linear alkanes, either alone or in mixtures, e.g., C 11 ~C15 Alkanes, and - These mixtures Selected from.

[0147] Volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular, C6~C 16 Alkanes, in particular, alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and C 13 ~C 16 It is selected from isoparaffins such as isoparaffin.

[0148] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, the volatile oil is a volatile linear or branched hydrocarbon oil, and is particularly selected from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane, and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures containing isododecane and / or mixtures of undecane and tridecane.

[0149] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil of the present invention is preferably of natural origin, and its chain contains 9 to 12 carbon atoms (C9-C9). 12 A mixture of alkanes, preferably linear or branched C9-C 12 It is a mixture of alkanes. This mixture is Vegelight Silk (registered trademark) sold by BioSynthIs, which is CAS 68608-12-8 and is known by the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is at least partially derived from plants.

[0151] Volatile oils The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group, and more specifically, an organopolysiloxane.

[0152] The volatile silicone oil can be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0153] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and polydimethylsiloxane, sold individually or in mixtures, for example, by Dow Corning under the reference names DC 200 (1.5 cSt) or DC 200 (3 cSt), or by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. under the reference name KF 96 A.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one volatile silicone oil, more specifically a mixture of isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, is used.

[0155] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains silicone oil in an amount of less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 20% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.2% by mass, and preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, and ideally, the composition according to the present invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0156] Preferably, in the composition according to the present invention, the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0157] The compositions of the present invention preferably include isododecane, linear or branched C9-C9. 12 Alkanes and / or n-undecanes (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 It contains a mixture of ) and; preferably, it contains isododecane.

[0158] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 18, and preferably 8 to 15.

[0159] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition may further contain one or more non-volatile oils.

[0160] Non-volatile oil The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is not zero, but less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa. For example, vapor pressure can be measured according to the vapor pressure of the oil, either by a static method or by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis (OECD Standard 104).

[0161] The non-volatile oil of the present invention is of natural or synthetic origin, and is preferably of natural origin.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, composition C1 or C'1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0163] Among non-volatile oils, the following can be listed:

[0164] Non-volatile silicone oil Non-volatile silicone oils can be selected from non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

[0165] These products are sold by Dow Corning as PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyltrimethicone); diphenyldimethicone, for example, products sold by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A; and products sold by Wacker Chemie such as Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 (trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone), are used alone or in mixtures.

[0166] Non-volatile fluorine-based oil The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

[0167] Fluorine-based oils can be selected from fluorinated polyethers, as well as fluorosilicone oils and fluorosilicones described in European Patent Application Publication No. 847752A.

[0168] Nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils Nonpolar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from inorganic substances or synthetically derived linear or branched compounds, such as those listed below: - Liquid paraffin, - Squalane, for example, the one sold by Amyris under the reference name Neossance Squalane, - Isoeikosan, - Saturated linear hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof, more specifically, C 15 ~C 28A mixture of the following, for example, a mixture with the following INCI names: C15-19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, for example, Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 and Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC. - Products containing hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, for example, the Indopol series of products sold by Ineos Oligomers, INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyibutene. - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example, non-volatile compounds in the Parleam® series sold by Nippon Oil Fats Ltd. - Hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, such as the Puresyn® series of non-volatile compounds sold by ExxonMobil. - Decene / butene copolymers and butene / isobutene copolymers, - and mixtures thereof.

[0169] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils These can be selected from the following: - Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched carbon 10 ~C 26 Fatty alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols. Advantageously, C 10 ~C 26 The alcohols are fatty alcohols, and if they contain at least 16 carbon atoms, they are preferably branched. Preferably, these fatty alcohols contain 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and include, among others, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; - Those fatty acids, especially C4~C 36 The range, especially C8~C 36 The range, preferably C 18 ~C 36 A triglyceride comprising an ester of a fatty acid and glycerol, which may have a chain length in the range of [specified range]. This oil may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Examples include, in particular, heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglyceride; vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, mallow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil; vegetable oils such as liquid fractions of shea butter and cocoa butter; and mixtures thereof. - A straight-chain aliphatic hydrocarbon ester of the formula RCOOR' (wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms), an alkylene glycol, in particular an aliphatic hydrocarbon ester of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, wherein the total number of carbon atoms is preferably at least 10. Examples of such esters include, in particular, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, stearic acid or isopropyl isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, (caprylic / capric acid) coconut alkyl, octanoic acid esters of alcohols or polyalcohols, decanoic acid esters or ricinoleic acid esters, for example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, Examples include polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoate esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoate esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, or myristyl myristate; - Hydroxylated esters, e.g., polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - Aromatic esters, e.g., tridecyl trimellitate, C 12 ~C 15 Alcohol benzoic acid esters, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate; - Linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70, for example, pentaerythrityl tetraperargonate; - C 24 ~C 28 Esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, for example, triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate); - Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols, for example, those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimers with diol dimers, for example, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate; - Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; - Dialkyl carbonates in which the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate; - Vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, e.g., (VP / hexadecene) copolymer (vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer) (INCI name); and - These mixtures.

[0170] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from the non-volatile silicone oil, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar hydrocarbon oil, and mixtures thereof as defined above, and is preferably selected from the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar hydrocarbon oil, and mixtures thereof as defined above.

[0171] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from the straight-chain aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of the formula RCOOR' (wherein RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms) as defined above, alkylene glycols, particularly aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, more preferably isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, (caprylic / capric acid) coconut alkyl and mixtures thereof, and more preferably isononyl isononanoate.

[0172] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched, preferably branched, C, containing at least 16 carbon atoms. 10 ~C 26 The material comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil, selected from fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, and in particular from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as that sold by BASF under the reference name Eutanol G, and mixtures thereof.

[0173] According to one embodiment, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils have fatty acids that are particularly C4-C 36 The range, especially C8~C 36 The oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil, selected from triglycerides (which may be linear or branched saturated or unsaturated as described above) consisting of esters of fatty acids having chain lengths in the range of , and glycerol, preferably heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, tri(caprylic / capric acid) glyceryl and mixtures thereof, more preferably tri(caprylic / capric acid) glyceryl, for example, sold by KLK Oleo under the reference name Palmester 3585.

[0174] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from the non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils described above, preferably a mixture of linear saturated hydrocarbons, more specifically C 15 ~C 28 It comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from a mixture of hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polybutenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises or consists of at least one non-volatile oil selected from a mixture having the following INCI names: C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, for example, Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120, which are products sold by Total; Emogreen L19, which are products sold by SEPPIC; Emogreen L15, which are products sold by SEPPIC; a product whose INCI name is Hydrogenated Polyisobutene; and mixtures thereof.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil c) is selected from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, tri(caprylic / capric acid)glyceryl, for example, mixtures having the following INCI names: C15-C19 alkanes, C18-C21 alkanes, C21-C28 alkanes, for example, Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products whose INCI name is Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof, more specifically, products whose INCI name is Hydrogenated Polyisobutene A product containing or comprising a product that is polyisobutene, a mixture whose INCI name is C15-C19 Alkane, for example, at least one non-volatile oil selected from Emogreen L15 and isononyl isononanoate sold by SEPPIC.

[0177] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil consists of one or more polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils as defined above.

[0178] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil preferably comprises at least one of the above-defined silicone oils, selected from dimethicone, for example, Belsil DM 5 Plus Dimethicone grade sold by Wacker, Dow Chemical, reference name Dowsil SH 200 C Fluid 10 CST, or Dow Chemical, reference name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST, or phenyl trimethicone, for example, Dow Chemical, reference name Dowsil SH 556 Fluid.

[0179] Preferably, when the non-volatile oil is a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from preferably non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of silicone oil is less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 20% by mass, and preferably less than 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0180] Advantageously, the optional non-volatile oil is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 35% by mass, preferably 1% to 30% by mass, more preferably 1% to 20% by mass, and preferably 1% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0181] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one non-volatile oil in a mass content of preferably 50% or less, preferably 40% or less, preferably 30% or less, preferably 20% or less, preferably 15% or less, preferably 10% or less, and preferably 8% or less, based on the total mass of the composition; and / or the mass ratio of the non-volatile oil to a crystalline fatty substance is 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.3 to 4, preferably 0.5 to 3, more preferably 1 to 2.5; and / or the mass ratio of the non-volatile oil to a resin is 0.01 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 3, and preferably 0.5 to 1.

[0182] Advantageously, by limiting the content of non-volatile oils in the composition of the present invention, it becomes possible to limit the solubilization of the resin, thereby maximizing the durability performance of the composition according to the present invention.

[0183] The "mass ratio," denoted as R, refers to the ratio of the total mass of volatile oils (VO) to the total mass of non-volatile oils (NVO), and is defined as follows: R = [Total mass of VO] / [Total mass of NVO].

[0184] Preferably, 0 < R ≦ 10000, more specifically 0.01 < R ≦ 1000; more specifically 0.05 < R ≦ 500; preferably 0.1 < R ≦ 100, still more preferably 0.5 < R ≦ 50.

[0185] Adding non-volatile oil tends to reduce the abrasion resistance of the film. Therefore, in order to maintain optimal persistence while providing a comfortable skin feel (soft, moist, and non-sticky feeling after applying the composition), it is preferable to use these at a content slightly lower than the content of volatile oil.

[0186] Optional silicone Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains silicone at 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0187] The term "silicone" is understood to mean any silicone compound.

[0188] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention substantially does not contain silicone other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers, preferably other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably other than MQ resins or (acrylates / polymethyltrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymers.

[0189] The expression "substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers, preferably other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably other than MQ resins or (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymers" is understood to mean that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, and preferentially less than 0.1% by mass, of the total mass of the composition, of silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers, preferably other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably other than MQ resins or (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymers. Preferably, the composition contains no silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers, preferably other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably other than MQ resins or (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymers. The phrase "silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers, preferably other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, preferably other than MQ resins or (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymers" is understood to mean any silicone compound that is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably not a silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably not an MQ resin or (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate) copolymer.

[0190] The term "resin" is understood to mean a compound having a three-dimensional structure. Therefore, with respect to the purposes of this invention, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0191] The nomenclature for silicone resins is known as "MDTQ," where the resin is described according to the various siloxane monomer units that make it up, and each letter of "MDTQ" represents the type of unit.

[0192] The letter "M" is represented by the formula R1R2R3SiO 1 / 2 This represents a monofunctional unit, where the silicon atom is bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer containing this unit.

[0193] The letter "D" represents a bifunctional unit R1R2SiO, in which a silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms. 2 / 2 It means...

[0194] The letter "T" is represented by the formula R1SiO 3 / 2 It represents the trifunctional unit.

[0195] In the units M, D, and T defined above, Ri, i.e., R1, R2, and R3, may be the same or different, and represent a hydrocarbon group (especially alkyl), a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group, or a hydroxyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0196] Finally, the letter "Q" represents a tetrafunctional unit SiO2, where a silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, and these oxygen atoms themselves are bonded to the rest of the polymer. 4 / 2 It means...

[0197] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley & Sons, New York (1989), pp. 265-270, and in U.S. Patent Nos. 2,676,182, 3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739, or 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685, and 4,935,484.

[0198] MQ-type silicone resins include, for example, those of the formula [(R1)3SiO 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y(MQ units) (wherein x and y are integers in the range of 50 to 80, and the R1 group represents the group defined above, preferably an alkyl group or hydroxyl group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group) alkylsiloxysilicate, and in particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resin, for example, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0199] Examples of silicone polymers include siloxanes having organic functional groups, such as polyalkylsiloxanes in which at least one alkyl group is not methyl, such as organopolysiloxanes whose INCI name is Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, or C26-C28 Alkyl Dimethicone; or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, such as those whose INCI name is Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include organopolysiloxanes that are dimethicone, or organopolysiloxanes having an organic functional group, such as an aminopropyl, aminopropylaminoethyl, or aminopropylaminoisobutyl group, for example, an organopolysiloxane whose INCI name is amodimethicone, or organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol group, for example, an organopolysiloxane whose INCI name is PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25 dimethicone, or cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 butyl ether dimethicone.

[0200] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers having siloxane groups and hydrocarbon groups. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone, such as a backbone selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and / or acrylic polymers, and at least one chain selected from pendant siloxane groups, and polymers comprising a siloxane group backbone and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain, such as a pendant vinyl group, a methacrylic group, and / or an acrylic group.

[0201] Silicone acrylate copolymers can be selected from nonpolar silicone copolymers containing at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit as a repeating unit and polymers derived from vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one nonpolar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers include (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymers, for example, those commercially available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., such as KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer), KP-549 (methyltrimethicone (and) (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer), and KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer). These include products sold under the brand names KP-561 ((Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylate / Dimethicone Methacrylate) Copolymer), KP-562 ((Acrylates / Behenyl Acrylate / Dimethicone Methacrylate) Copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Further examples include (Acrylates / Dimethicone) copolymers and mixtures thereof sold under the brand names FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) (Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate) Copolymer), FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate (Isododecane (and) (Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate) Copolymer), and FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate (Isododecane (and) (Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxy Methacrylate) Copolymer) by Dow Corning.

[0202] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is substantially silicone-free. The term "substantially silicone-free" is understood to mean that the composition contains silicone in an amount of less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, and preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition is silicone-free at all. According to this embodiment, the term "silicone" is understood to mean any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

[0203] Volatile alcohols The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one volatile alcohol.

[0204] The term "alcohol" is understood to mean any compound that contains at least one hydroxyl group in its structure.

[0205] The term "volatile substance" means any substance that, upon contact with skin, can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile substance is a liquid at room temperature, and in particular, has a vapor pressure that is not zero at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular, has a vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 -3 The pressure is in the range of ~300 mmHg, preferably in the range of 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg).

[0206] The term "volatile alcohol" refers to any compound containing at least one hydroxyl group, in which, upon contact with keratinous substances such as skin or hair, more than 95% by mass of the compound can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and in particular, upon contact with skin, it can evaporate in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile substance is a liquid at room temperature, and preferably has a vapor pressure of 2.66 Pa or more, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and preferably in the range of 2.66 Pa to 8000 Pa at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0207] The vapor pressure can be measured according to static methods or by the effusion method using isothermal thermogravimetric measurement (OECD standard 104), depending on the vapor pressure of the oil.

[0208] The volatile alcohol according to the present invention is preferably selected from lower C1-C5 alcohols, and can be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, preferably selected from C1-C4 alcohols, preferably: selected from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0209] Using a Haake RheoStress 600 device, rotor diameter 60 mm, angle 2°, shear rate 200 s -1 The viscosity at 20°C measured at is preferably 0.3-3 mPa·s.

[0210] Advantageously, the volatile alcohol is present in a content in the range of 1% to 70% by mass, more preferably in the range of 5% to 50% by mass, more particularly in the range of 5% to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The advantage of the composition of the present invention is that the content of volatile alcohol, which often causes discomfort (dryness, tingling), can be limited without losing solubilizing power.

[0211] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably in the range of 1 to 30, preferably in the range of 1.2 to 20, preferably in the range of 1.5 to 15.

[0212] Preferably, the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 100, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10, preferably in the range of 0.5 to 5, preferably in the range of 1 to 4.

[0213] Advantageously, in the composition according to the present invention, the mass content of volatile oil relative to the total mass of the composition is equal to or greater than the mass content of volatile alcohol, and itself exceeds the mass content of natural resin (oil > alcohol > resin). Preferably, the mass content of natural resin itself is equal to or greater than the mass content of crystallizable fatty substances relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0214] In other words, in the composition according to the present invention, the sum of the mass content (S) of the volatile oil, volatile alcohol, and natural resin preferably follows the following rules: S(volatile oil) > S(volatile alcohol) > S(natural resin). The undesirable properties of the volatile alcohol are offset by carefully selecting the content of the volatile oil, while ensuring a sufficient content of volatile alcohol so that the natural resin can be solubilized.

[0215] Crystallizable fatty substances The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one crystallizable fatty substance.

[0216] The term "fatty substances" typically refers to organic compounds that are insoluble in water (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%) at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms, or at least two consecutive siloxane groups. The crystallizable fatty substances of the present invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably naturally derived, more preferably plant-derived or animal-derived from insects. These are different from fatty acids, for the reason that fatty acids, when salted, generally become soaps soluble in aqueous media.

[0217] The term "crystallizable fatty substance" in relation to the object of the present invention is understood to mean a solid lipophilic compound that is deformable or indeformable at room temperature (25°C) and has a melting point of 25°C or higher, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, and preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

[0218] Some fatty substances that can crystallize are commonly known as waxes.

[0219] wax According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more types of wax.

[0220] The term "wax" is understood to mean a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, undergoes reversible solid / liquid phase transitions, has a melting point of 30°C or higher, and may be in the range of up to 200°C, particularly up to 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of 45°C or higher, particularly 55°C or higher. In particular, waxes suitable for the present invention may have a melting point of 45°C or higher, particularly 55°C or higher.

[0221] The melting point for the purposes of this invention corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO standard 11357-3;1999. The melting point of a crystallizable fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in the specification PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0222] Among inorganic, crystallizable fatty substances, examples include paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin, and microcrystalline wax.

[0223] Among plant-derived crystallizable fatty substances, examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax (e.g., sold by Strahl & Pitsch under the reference name SP 75 G), laurel wax, sugarcane wax, ceramide, esparto wax, olive tree wax, rice wax (e.g., sold by Cera Rica Noda under the reference name NC 1720), sunflower seed wax (e.g., sold by Koster Keunen under the reference name sunflower wax), hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, (acacia wax / jojoba wax / sunflower seed wax) polyglyceryl-3 esters, and absolute flower waxes (e.g., blackcurrant blossom essential wax), soybean wax, and myrica fruit wax.

[0224] Other plant-derived crystalline fatty substances may also be mentioned, such as caranday wax, raffia wax, Colombia wax, esparto wax, alfalfa wax, bamboo wax, hemp wax, Douglas fir wax, cork wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, dammar wax, grain wax, tea wax, coffee wax, ocatilla wax, palm wax, myrica wax, bayberry wax, Vilorus linamensis wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, iripel wax, and Japan tallow wax (or Japan wax).

[0225] Among animal-derived, crystallizable fatty substances, examples include beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), lanolin, and whale wax.

[0226] Crystallizable fatty substances also include crystallizable long-chain alcohols and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl alcohol (50 / 50 C). 16 / C 18), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and C 20 ~C 22 You can also choose from alcoholic beverages.

[0227] Crystallizable fatty substances also include crystallizable long-chain esters and mixtures thereof, for example, compounds having INCI "Cetyl esters (and) cetyl ester mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate", or compounds having INCI "Myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate mixture", glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate, for example, Ercawax CP V / O, a commercial product from supplier Erca, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl (C20-40) stearate, crystallizable long-chain glycerol esters and mixtures thereof, for example, the compound sold by Gattefosse under the name Compritol 888 CG ATO (INCI: Glyceryl dibehenate). You may also choose from dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl behenate () or each of its individual components, glycerol behenate triester (INCI: Tribehenin), glycerol hydroxystearate triester (INCI: Trihydroxystearin), tricaprine, trilaurin, trimiristine, tripalmitine, tristearin, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl (dipalmitic acid / stearate), and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystallizable fatty substances selected from crystallizable long-chain esters and mixtures thereof are preferably glycerol and optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups. 12 ~C 24It is selected from esters with fatty acids.

[0228] The crystallizable fatty substances can also be crystallizable fatty acids having long alkyl chains and mixtures thereof, such as compounds having the INCI name "Stearic acid", mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, especially saturated C4-C 28 fatty acids and unsaturated C4-C 28 It can also be selected from fatty acids.

[0229] Other crystallizable fatty substances that can be used according to the present invention are, in particular, marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as α-olefin oligomers, for example, Performa V® 825, 103 and 260, which are polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700 or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or mixtures of these products.

[0230] Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is a crystallizable fatty substance derived from animals or plants, esters of glycerol with C 12 ~C 24 fatty acids optionally substituted with hydroxyl groups, and C 12 ~C 24 sorbitol esterified with C6-C 16 It is selected from copolymers with fatty diacids, preferably triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, and preferentially selected from triesters of glycerol and behenic acid, triesters of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid and sunflower wax.

[0231] Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is present in an amount between 0.01% and 40% by mass, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by mass, preferentially between 0.2% and 12% by mass, preferentially between 1% and 10% by mass, preferentially between 1% and 8% by mass, advantageously between 1.5% and 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0232] According to one embodiment, the mass ratio of the amount of natural resin to the amount of crystallizable fatty substance is 0.5 or more, preferably more than 0.6, preferably more than 0.7, preferably more than 0.8, preferably more than 0.9, preferably more than 1, preferably between 0.5 and 100, preferably between 0.6 and 50, preferably between 0.7 and 30, preferably between 0.8 and 30, preferably between 0.9 and 10, preferably between 1 and 9, preferably between 1.1 and 8, preferably between 1.2 and 7, preferably between 1.3 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 3.

[0233] Other optional components of the oily phase Paste-like compound According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more paste-like compounds.

[0234] The term "paste-like compound" with respect to the object of the present invention means a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state, and contains a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23°C.

[0235] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optional water, and one or more optional organic solvents other than oil a) and alcohol b) as defined according to the present invention.

[0236] Advantageously, the total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100% by mass, preferably in the range of 10% to 98% by mass, preferably in the range of 20% to 95% by mass, preferably in the range of 30% to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0237] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase having the composition defined above.

[0238] According to the first embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of an oily composition, particularly an anhydrous oily composition, for example, an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

[0239] According to a second embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises an aqueous phase.

[0240] Advantageously, the total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100% by mass, preferably 10% to 98% by mass, preferably 20% to 90% by mass, and preferably 30% to 80% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0241] aqueous phase The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble or water-miscible component, such as a water-soluble solvent.

[0242] Suitable water for use in the present invention may be aromatic distilled water such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water and / or spring water such as Vittel water, Lucas water, or La Roche-Posay water.

[0243] In this invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure exceeds 50% by mass).

[0244] The water-soluble solvent that can be used in the composition of the present invention may be volatile.

[0245] In particular, among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in compositions according to the present invention, examples include lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones; and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0246] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is preferably present in a total content of 2% to 95% by mass, preferably 5% to 90% by mass, preferably 10% to 80% by mass, more specifically 15% to 70% by mass, preferably 20% to 60% by mass, and preferably 25% to 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0247] surfactants According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition also includes one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic or ionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

[0248] According to other specific embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not contain a surfactant.

[0249] The term "surfactant" refers to a compound that alters the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules, having two parts with different polarities: one part is nonpolar and lipophilic (holds fatty substances), and the other part is polar and hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water). The lipophilic part is generally a fatty chain, while the other water-miscible part is polar and / or protic.

[0250] The term "ionic" refers to anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or amphoteric ions.

[0251] The term "fatty acid chain" refers to a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain containing more than six carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0252] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion of a molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB for preparing W / O emulsions generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of surfactants used according to the present invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0253] According to a first specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone or non-silicone nonionic surfactant.

[0254] Among the nonionic surfactants according to the present invention, examples include fatty alcohols, α-diols, and alkylphenols, either individually or in mixtures. These three compounds are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated, and / or polyglycerolated, and for example, contain fatty chains containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide groups can be particularly in the range of 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can be particularly in the range of 2 to 30. Ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with aliphatic alcohols; preferably polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides containing an average of 1 to 5, particularly 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; oxyethylenelated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; alkyl polyglycosides; N-alkyl glucamine derivatives; (C10 ~C 14 ) Amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides and N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides can also be mentioned.

[0255] The surfactant as a whole occupies, based on the total mass of the composition, particularly 0.01% to 30% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 15%, more preferably 1% to 10% by mass, and even better 1% to 7% by mass of the composition.

[0256] Pigment According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition also contains at least one pigment.

[0257] The term "pigment" means white or colored inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or coating. These pigments may be white or colored, and may be inorganic and / or organic.

[0258] Preferably, the composition contains the pigment at least 0.5% by mass, preferably at least 1% by mass, preferably at least 2% by mass, preferably at least 5% by mass, more preferably 5% to 40% by mass, particularly 6% to 30% by mass, preferably 7% to 25% by mass, and more specifically 8% to 20% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0259] According to a specific embodiment, the pigment used in accordance with the present invention is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0260] The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia. Among the inorganic pigments used in the present invention, in addition to zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, examples include zinc oxide, iron oxide (black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, or red iron oxide) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue, titanium dioxide or metal powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder. The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, or ZnS.

[0261] In relation to the present invention, the size of the pigments useful is generally in the range of more than 100 nm and up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0262] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the diameter of the pigment is characterized by having a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and may be in the range up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably in the range of 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0263] This diameter is measured by static light scattering using the MasterSizer 3000 (registered trademark), a particle size analyzer commercially available from Malvern, making it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all particles in a wide range, from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed based on the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for determining particle size distributions in the submicron to several micron range, and it is possible to determine the effective particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0264] D

[50] represents the maximum diameter of 50 volume percent of the particles.

[0265] The inorganic pigments related to the present invention are, more specifically, iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. More specifically, as an example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the reference name NAI (registered trademark).

[0266] Pearlescent pigments can also be used as inorganic pigments in this invention.

[0267] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean colored particles of any shape that exhibit a coloration effect due to light interference, whether or not they have iridescence, and are produced or synthesized by certain mollusks in their shells.

[0268] The pearlescent agent can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium-coated mica coated with iron oxide, titanium-coated mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium-coated mica coated with chromium oxide, and titanium-coated mica coated with organic dyes, as well as pearlescent pigments mainly composed of bismuth oxychloride. These can also be mica particles with at least two continuous layers of metal oxide and / or organic colorants superimposed on their surface.

[0269] Examples of pearlescent agents include titanium dioxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or natural mica coated with bismuth oxychloride.

[0270] Among commercially available pearlescent polishes, notable examples include Timica®, Flamenco®, and Duochrome® (primarily composed of mica), sold by Engelhard; Timiron®, sold by Merck; Prestige®, sold by Eckart, which is primarily composed of mica; and Sunshine®, sold by Sun Chemical, which is primarily composed of synthetic mica.

[0271] More specifically, this pearlescent agent may exhibit yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper-colored hues or shades.

[0272] Examples of pearlescent agents that can be used in connection with the present invention include: gold pearlescent agents, in particular those sold by Engelhard under the names Brilliant gold 212G (registered trademark) (Timica), Gold 222C (registered trademark) (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (registered trademark) (Timica), Gold 4504 (registered trademark) (Chromalite), and Monarch Gold 233X (registered trademark) (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents, in particular those sold by Merck under the names Bronze fine (registered trademark) (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (registered trademark) (17353) (Colorona), and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents, in particular those sold by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (registered trademark) (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (registered trademark) (Cosmica), and by Merck under the name Passion Products sold under the names Orange (registered trademark) (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (registered trademark) (Microna); brown pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (registered trademark) (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (registered trademark) (Chromalite); copper-colored pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (registered trademark) (Timica); reddish pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (registered trademark) (17386) (Colorona); yellowish pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (registered trademark) (Chromalite); golden-colored red pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone Products sold under the name G012 (registered trademark) (Gemtone); pink pearlescent luster, especially those sold by Engelhard under the name Tan Opal G005 (registered trademark) (Gemtone);Gold-tinged black pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Engelhard under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); silver-tinged white pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver (Xirona Silver); and pearlescent polishes that change from gold-green to pink to orange, especially; Examples include products sold by Merck under the name Indian Summer (registered trademark) (Xirona), as well as mixtures thereof.

[0273] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, there are also those that exhibit optical effects different from the conventional simple coloring effect, that is, the uniform, unchanging (stabilized) effect produced by conventional colorants such as monochromatic pigments. In relation to the purpose of the present invention, the term "unchanging" means that the color does not change in various ways with the observation angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0274] For example, this material can be selected from metallic-colored particles, goniochromatic colorants, photodiffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent whitening agents, as well as fibers, particularly photointerference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials can be combined to exhibit two effects simultaneously, and even novel effects according to the present invention.

[0275] The metallic colored particles that can be used in the present invention are particularly selected from the following: - Particles of at least one metal and / or particles of at least one metal derivative; - Particles comprising a single or multiple material organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer exhibiting a metallic color, which includes at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - A mixture of the aforementioned particles.

[0276] Among the metals that can be present in the particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, and Se, as well as mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0277] The term "metal derivative" refers to compounds derived from metals, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0278] Examples of such particles include aluminum particles, for example, those sold by Silverline under the name Starbrite 1200 EAC® and by Eckart under the name Metalure®.

[0279] Examples include metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures, such as those sold by Radium Bronze under the reference name 2844; metal pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold by Eckart under the name Rotosafe® 700; silica-coated aluminum particles sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire Bright Silver®; and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) powder sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold®.

[0280] These can also be particles containing a glass substrate, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. under the name Microglass Metashine®.

[0281] The goniochromatic colorant can be selected from, for example, multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0282] Symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in compositions prepared according to the present invention include, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al (pigments having this structure are sold by Dupont de Nemours); Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr (pigments having this structure are sold by Flex under the name Chromaflair®); MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 (pigments having these structures are sold by BASF under the name Sicopearl®). ;MoS2 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / MoS2;Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3;TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2;SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO;Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3;SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO (Pigments with this structure are sold by Merck (Darmstadt) under the name Xirona®). For example, these pigments can be a silica / titanium dioxide / tin oxide structure pigment sold by Merck under the name Xirona Magic®, a silica / brown iron oxide structure pigment sold by Merck under the name Xirona Indian Summer®, and a silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigment sold by Merck under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue®. Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido Co., Ltd. can also be mentioned. Different effects can be obtained depending on the thickness and properties of various layers. For example, using the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the SiO2 layer at 320-350 nm changes from greenish gold to reddish gray; the SiO2 layer at 380-400 nm changes from red to gold; the SiO2 layer at 410-420 nm changes from purple to green; and the SiO2 layer at 430-440 nm changes from copper to red.

[0283] An example of a pigment having a multilayer polymer structure is the one sold by 3M under the name Color Glitter®.

[0284] Examples of usable liquid crystal goniochromatic particles include those sold by Chenix, as well as products sold by Wacker under the name Helicone® HC.

[0285] Hydrophobic coated pigments According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, which is described in particular below.

[0286] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous in that it can be used in large quantities even in the presence of a large amount of water. Furthermore, because they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, their affinity for the gelled oil phase becomes dominant, and the oil phase can then transport them.

[0287] Needless to say, the composition according to the present invention may also include uncoated pigments.

[0288] The coating may also further include at least one non-lipophilic compound.

[0289] With regard to the objectives of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally refers to surface treating all or part of the pigment with a surface treatment agent that is absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto the surface of the pigment.

[0290] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques having chemical, electrical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0291] Surface treatment agents can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto pigments by evaporation of the solvent, chemical reactions, and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0292] In one modified form, the surface treatment consists of coating with a pigment.

[0293] The coating can account for 0.1% to 20% by mass, and especially 0.5% to 5% by mass, of the total mass of the coated pigment.

[0294] The coating can be prepared by, for example, selectively heating and mixing solid particles and a liquid surface treatment agent while stirring, before adding the particles to other components of the makeup or care composition, thereby adsorbing the surface treatment agent onto the particle surface.

[0295] The coating can also be prepared, for example, by chemically reacting a surface treatment agent with the surface of solid pigment particles to create a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0296] Chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting a surface treatment agent with a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent to allow the surface treatment agent to adhere to the surface of the pigment.

[0297] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agents If the pigment includes an oil-lipid or hydrophobic coating, this is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0298] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone-based surface treatment agents; fluorine-based surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone-based surface treatment agents; metal soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty acid esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0299] Silicone surface treatment agent According to certain embodiments, the pigment can be treated in whole or in part with a silicone-based compound.

[0300] Silicone surface treatment agents can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] The term "organopolysiloxane compound" refers to a compound that has a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and contains organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms.

[0302] Non-elastomer organopolysiloxanes In particular, examples of non-elastomer organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydrosiloxane, and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxane.

[0303] Alkoxy groups can be represented as RO- groups, where R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl.

[0304] One method for surface-treating pigments with polymethylhydrosiloxane involves dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. When the mixture is heated, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0305] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface treatment agent can be a non-elastomer organopolysiloxane, and is particularly selected from polydimethylsiloxanes.

[0306] Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes Silanes containing alkoxy groups are described in particular by Witucki, *A Silane Primer*, *Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxysilanes*, *Journal of Coatings Technology*, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0307] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilane and alkyltrimethoxysilane, sold under the reference names Milquet A-137 (registered trademark) (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202 (registered trademark) (PCR), can be used to coat pigments.

[0308] The application concerns the use of alkylpolysiloxanes having reactive end groups such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino, or imino. These are described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 07-196946. They are also suitable for processing pigments.

[0309] Silicone-acrylate polymer Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone skeleton can be used, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,725,882, 5,209,924, 4,972,037, 4,981,903, 4,981,902, 5,468,477, and 5,219,560, and European Patent No. 0388582.

[0310] Other silicone-acrylate polymers have the following formula (II) in their structure: [Chemical formula 11] [ka] (In the formula, the G1 group may be the same or different, and may be hydrogen or C1~C 10 Represents an alkyl group or a phenyl group; the G2 group may be the same or different, C1-C10 The silicone polymer may include the following units: G3 represents an alkylene group; G4 represents a polymer residue obtained by the (solo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer in the range of 0 to 50; b is an integer that can be between 10 and 350, and c is an integer in the range of 0 to 50, provided that one of the variables a and c is not 0.

[0311] Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and more preferably all, of the following features: - The G1 group represents an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; - n is not zero, and the G2 group represents a divalent C1-C3 group, preferably a propylene group; - G3 represents a polymer group obtained by the (solo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type monomer, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 is at least one type (C1~C 10 ) Represents an alkyl (meth)acrylate type monomer, preferably a polymer group obtained by (single) polymerization of isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.

[0312] In particular, the silicone polymer corresponding to formula (I) is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), in which poly(meth)acrylic acid type and polymethyl(meth)acrylate type polymer units are mixed and grafted via thiopropylene type linking groups.

[0313] Another example of a silicone polymer corresponding to formula (I) is polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), in particular, in which polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate-type polymer units are grafted via thiopropylene-type linking chain units.

[0314] Silicone resin The silicone surface treatment agent can be selected from the silicone resins defined above.

[0315] Fluorine-based surface treatment agents Pigments can be completely or partially surface-treated with fluorine-based compounds.

[0316] Fluorine-based surface treatment agents can be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, and polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

[0317] The term "perfluoroalkyl group" refers to an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0318] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in the patent application, European Patent No. 0486135, and are sold by Montefluos under the name Fomblin.

[0319] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine, sold by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the reference name Asahi Guard AG530 (registered trademark), can also be used.

[0320] Examples of linear perfluoroalkanes include perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes), and organoperfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom.

[0321] Among perfluoroalkanes, examples include the linear alkane series, such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane, or perfluorodecane.

[0322] Among perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), examples include perfluorodecalin, perfluoro(methyldecalin), and perfluoro(C3-C5 alkylcyclohexane), such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane), which are sold by Rhodia under the name Flutec PP5 GMP.

[0323] Among perfluoropolycycloalkanes, examples include bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives, such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives, such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives, such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0324] Among perfluoroarenes, examples include perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene, such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoro-1-methylnaphthalene.

[0325] Examples of commercially available reference names for pigments treated with fluorine compounds include: - Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Yellow 601 (registered trademark); - Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Red R 516L (registered trademark); - Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 Black BL100 (registered trademark); - Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the reference name PF 5 TiO2 CR 50 (registered trademark); - Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether sold by Toshiki under the reference name Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3(registered trademark); - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether, sold by Cardre Inc. under the reference name D&C Red 7 FHC®; and - DC Red 6 / PTFE, sold by Warner-Jenkinson under the reference name T 9506 (registered trademark).

[0326] Fluorosilicone surface treatment agent Pigments can be completely or partially surface-treated with fluorosilicone compounds.

[0327] The fluorosilicone compound can be selected from perfluoroalkyldimethicone, perfluoroalkylsilane, and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilane.

[0328] Examples of perfluoroalkylsilanes include LP-IT® and LP-4T®, which are products sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0329] An example of a reference name for a commercially available pigment treated with a fluorosilicone compound is titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. under the reference name Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA(registered trademark).

[0330] Other lipophilic surface treatment agents The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from the following: (i) Metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate.

[0331] Examples of metallic soaps include those made from fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially those made from fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0332] The metal in the metal soap can be zinc or magnesium in particular.

[0333] Examples of usable metal soaps include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0334] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from ii) fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.

[0335] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethylhexanoyl group, a caproyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group, a palmitoyl group, a stearoyl group, or a cocoyl group.

[0336] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0337] The salts of these compounds can be aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts, or potassium salts.

[0338] Therefore, according to certain preferred embodiments, the N-acyl amino acid derivative can be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0339] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0340] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

[0341] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those commercially available from Kobo under the reference names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

[0342] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0343] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes.

[0344] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from viiii) fatty esters, particularly jojoba esters.

[0345] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be selected from ix) phospholipids.

[0346] The wax contained in the compounds cited above can be those commonly used in the cosmetics field, as will be defined later.

[0347] These can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone, and / or fluorinated, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl groups. They can be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0348] The term "polar wax" refers to a wax containing a compound with at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; these may be, for example, alcohol groups, ester groups, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, and Fischer-Tropsch wax are not included in the category of polar waxes.

[0349] In particular, for polar waxes, the average Hansen solubility parameter δa at 25°C is δa > 0 (J / cm²). 3 ) 1 / 2 For better results, δa > 1 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 This is what it becomes:

number

[0350] Hansen's definition of a solvent in three-dimensional solubility space is described in the paper CMHansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J.Paint Technol., a39, 105 (1967): - δh characterizes specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); - δp characterizes the Chasom interaction force between induced and permanent dipoles, in addition to the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles.

[0351] The parameters δp and δh are (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 It is expressed in units.

[0352] Polar waxes are formed from molecules that, in particular, contain complex atoms (such as O, N, and P) in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure.

[0353] Non-limiting examples of such polar waxes include, in particular, natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and privet wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hericury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax (sumac wax), and montan wax.

[0354] According to certain embodiments, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surface treatment agents; fluorine surface treatment agents; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0355] According to certain preferred embodiments, the pigment can be coated with N-acyl amino acids and / or salts thereof, in particular glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, or fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters.

[0356] According to a more specific preferred embodiment, the pigment can be coated with N-acyl amino acids and / or salts thereof, in particular glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, in particular stearoyl glutamates, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0357] More specifically, examples of coated pigments according to the present invention include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are sold by Miyoshi Chemicals, Inc., for example, under the reference name NAI.

[0358] Pigments not coated with hydrophobic compounds As described above, the composition may further include pigments that are not coated with lipophilic or hydrophobic compounds.

[0359] These other pigments may or may not be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0360] These pigments can be inorganic pigments, particularly those defined above.

[0361] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0362] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. Organic pigments can be selected from, in particular, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, or quinophthalone compounds.

[0363] Organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments classified in the Color Index with reference numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments classified in the Color Index with reference numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments classified in the Color Index with reference numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments classified in the Color Index with reference numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, and CI Red pigments classified by reference numbers 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 can be selected, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0364] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments described in European Patent No. 1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an organic pigment and an inorganic core material that is at least partially coated with at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core material.

[0365] Pigments can also be used in the form of lakes. The term "lake" refers to a material in which dye is adsorbed onto insoluble particles, making them insoluble. The resulting aggregate remains insoluble during use.

[0366] The inorganic substrates used to adsorb the dyes include, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate, or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0367] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine can be mentioned. Other products known by the following names can also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0368] An example of a rake is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0369] Properties of hydrophilic coatings As mentioned above, these other pigments can also be coated with hydrophilic compounds.

[0370] The hydrophilic compound, which can be used to surface-treat a pigment to optimize its dispersion in a gelled aqueous phase, is more specifically selected from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0371] Examples of biological polymers include polymers based on carbohydrate monomers.

[0372] More specifically, these include biosaccharide gums; chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethylchitosan, carboxybutylchitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethylchitin or chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; water-soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinan; mucopolysaccharides; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0373] In particular, as an example of carbohydrates, the general formula is: C x (H2O) y Examples of polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones (wherein x and y can be in the range of 1 to 1,000,000) are given.

[0374] Carbohydrates are monosaccharides, disaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0375] In particular, examples of carbohydrates include amylodextrin, β-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, wheat (Triticum vulgare) starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, or sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0376] C1~C 20 Alkylene glycol or C1-C 20 Alkylene glycol ethers can also be used alone or in tri(C1~C) 20 It can be used as a surface treatment agent in combination with alkylsilanes.

[0377] As an example, pigments treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilanes, such as those treated with PEG-8 methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by Kobo under the name SW pigments, can be cited.

[0378] Silicones such as dimethicone having hydrophilic groups, known as dimethicone copolyol or alkyl dimethicone copolyol, may also be suitable for use as a surface treatment agent in the present invention. In particular, such dimethicone may have repeating units of C1-C 20 It contains alkylene oxides, such as ethylene or propylene oxide.

[0379] As an example, we can cite the PEG-12-dimethicone-treated pigment sold by Sensient Corporation under the name LCW AQ(registered trademark) Pigment.

[0380] The amount of pigment coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigment is determined in particular by the intended use of the cosmetic composition in question, and the adjustment of this amount is clearly within the scope of the composition's formulater.

[0381] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides, particularly a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, particularly N-acylated amino acids and / or salts thereof, particularly glutamic acid derivatives and / or salts thereof, particularly stearoyl glutamate, for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0382] Modified polysaccharides According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one (or more) modified polysaccharides. - "Sugar" refers to monosaccharides or polysaccharide groups and their O-protected sugar derivatives, such as sugar esters of (C1-C6) alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, sugars containing amine groups, and (C1-C4) alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose. Examples of sugar groups include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose. - The term "monosaccharide" refers to a sugar that is a monosaccharide containing at least five carbon atoms of the formula Cx(H2O)x (where x is an integer of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, and especially x is between 5 and 7 (including boundary values), preferably x=6); these may be D or L configurations and alpha or beta anomers, as well as solvates such as salts and hydrates thereof; - The term "polysaccharide" refers to a polymer composed of several sugars linked via O-glucosidic bonds, a polysaccharide sugar (the polymer is composed of monosaccharide units as defined above, each monosaccharide unit containing at least 5, preferably 6, carbon atoms; in particular, these monosaccharide units are linked via 1,4 or 1,6 bonds as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomers, and each sugar unit can take on an L or D configuration), as well as its salts and solvates such as hydrates of the monosaccharides; more specifically, these are polysaccharides of the general formula A polymer formed from a certain number of sugars (i.e., monosaccharides) having the formula -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w- (wherein x is an integer of 5 or more, preferably 6 or more, in particular x is 5 to 7 (including boundary values), preferably x=6, y is an integer representing x-1, and w is an integer of 2 or more, in particular 3 to 3000 (including boundary values), more specifically 5 to 2500, preferredly 10 to 2300, in particular 15 to 1000 (including boundary values), more specifically 20 to 500, preferredly 25 to 200).

[0383] Preferably, the polysaccharide is a thickening polymer.

[0384] The term "thickening polymer" refers to a polymer that, when introduced at 1% by mass into an alcoholic or fatty alcohol (lipoalcohol) solution containing 50% ethanol, or into an oil selected from liquid petrolatum, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, exhibits the following characteristics at 25°C and a shear rate of 1 s. -1 In this context, this refers to a polymer that enables the achievement of a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (such as a Haake R600 rheometer).

[0385] The polysaccharides useful in the present invention are anionic, nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric polymers, preferably cationic, nonionic, or anionic polymers, and more preferably nonionic polymers, which are optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) and / or p)(di)alkylamino as defined below, and / or optionally interposed with one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined below, and which are cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms: i) linear or branched (C5~C28) alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5~C28) alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C5~C28) Modified by the presence of an alkynyl (preferably a linear hydrocarbon group): a) halogen such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide-C(O)-N(Ra)2 or -C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) RX (wherein R represents a group selected from α) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, β) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, γ) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic surfactant, m) thiosulfate, and X represents a') O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O) r Alternatively, (thio)carbonyl, or c')(thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea or sulfonamide, or a combination of a') and b'); Ra represents a hydrogen atom or an aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group such as a (C1-C4) alkyl group or benzyl, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc may be the same or different, and represent a (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkoxy group, especially a single substituent); and / or a')heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra) and Si(Rb)(Rc), b')S(O) r(thio)carbonyl, or c')(thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, or sulfonamide, representing a combination of a') and b'), r is 1 or 2, Ra is the same as above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, and Rb and Rc are the same as above.

[0386] "Polysaccharides" are defined as above, and furthermore, the sugar unit -[C x (H2O) y )] w -or-[(CH2O) x ] w - is optionally modified by substitution, oxidation, dehydration and / or reduction.

[0387] Preferred polysaccharide sugar units useful in the present invention include glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate, and fructose.

[0388] In particular, examples include modified polysaccharides obtained by physical, chemical, or enzymatic reactions from natural gums, such as exudates from trees or shrubs, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms, or plants.

[0389] Natural gums can be selected from the following: - Acacia gum (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Gattigum (a polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid); - Karaya gum (polymers derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose, and arabinose); - Agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - Carrageenan and fercereran (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - Guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and fenugreek); - Tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose, and glucose); - Konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - Xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid, and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - Gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose, and glucuronic acid); - Scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); - Cellulose (glucose polymer); - Starch (glucose polymer); - Inulin and - Pectin.

[0390] In particular, the denatured polysaccharides are derived from: i) acacia gum; ii) ghati gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) tragacanth gum; v) agar; vi) alginate; vii) carrageenan and fercereran; viiii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably selected from xvi), xvii), and xviii), and more preferably derived from xvii).

[0391] The starch molecules xvii) used in the present invention may be derived from cereal plants or tubers as their botanical origin. Therefore, the starch may be selected from, for example, the starches of maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and peas.

[0392] Starch can be modified chemically or physically, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: alpha-gelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0393] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is nonionic.

[0394] These polymers may be chemically or physically modified. Physical treatments include, in particular, temperature treatments.

[0395] Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis, and addition reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0396] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.

[0397] The modifiable starch molecules that can be used in the production of modified starch according to the present invention may have a botanical origin of cereal plants or tubers. Therefore, the starch can be selected from, for example, starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and peas.

[0398] Starch can be modified chemically or physically, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: alpha-gelatinization, oxidation, cross-linking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0399] The starch molecule xvii) may be derived from any plant source of starch, such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat, which are modified to link at least one hydrocarbon aliphatic chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, and / or has been optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f)), g)), h)), i)), j)), l); and / or p)(di)alkylamino) as defined above, and / or optionally interposed with one or more heteroatoms or groups a') to c') as defined above. Hydrolyzed starches may also be used as described above. Modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0400] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ether called an alkyl polysaccharide, which contains 2 to 30 alkyl groups, preferably 2 to 10, and more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0401] Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharide b) according to the present invention is derived from cellulose, guar beans, or a mixture thereof.

[0402] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, in a linear or branched alkyl residue.

[0403] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose containing a chain composed of β-anhydroglucose units linked via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three substituteable hydroxyl groups, and all or some of these hydroxyl groups can be reacted according to the following reactions: Cell-OM + R-Hal → Cell-OR + MHal (In the formula, Hal represents a halogen such as Cl, M represents a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal Na or K or an alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell represents a polysaccharide group such as cellulose, R represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal represents the resulting salt, such as sodium chloride).

[0404] Advantageously, alkylcellulose can be selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose, which is the ethyl ether of cellulose.

[0405] When all three hydroxyl groups in each anhydroglucose unit are substituted, the degree of substitution becomes 3. In other words, the alkoxy group content is between 40% and 60%, particularly around 55% (54.88%).

[0406] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably a polymer in which the degree of substitution by ethoxy groups is in the range of 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words, a polymer containing ethoxy groups in the range of 44% to 50%.

[0407] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is ethylcellulose in powder form. This is, for example, sold by Dow Chemicals under the trade names Ethocel Standard, particularly Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T sold by Ashland, Inc., preferably under the name of type-N such as N7 and N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0408] In other embodiments, the polysaccharide ether is alkyl guar, i.e., guar gum modified by replacing the hydrogen atoms of hydroxyl with linear or branched alkyl groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms, for example, 2 carbon atoms.

[0409] The alkyl guar polymer used in composition C1 or C'1 according to the present invention is preferably ethyl guar.

[0410] Ethyl guar is known by its INCI name, C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan.

[0411] More specifically, the degree of substitution is 2-3, particularly 2.5-2.8.

[0412] Alkylated guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl groups), such as ethyl guar, are described in particular in European Patent No. 708114 and in document RD9537807 (October 1995), along with their preparation methods.

[0413] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide b) is an ester obtained by reacting a polysaccharide ester, particularly at least one polysaccharide, such as dextrin, with at least one linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acid containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0414] According to certain embodiments, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is selected from xvi) cellulose or its derivatives, such as hydroxy(C1-C5) alkylcellulose, xvii) starch, and xviii) inulin; the polysaccharides xvi), xvii), and xviii) contain at least one C8-C 30 Fatty chains, for example, alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched, preferably linear C8-C8. 30 It is an alkyl group, and in particular:

[0415] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from monosaccharides, polysaccharide monoalkyls, or polyalkyl esters.

[0416] Among monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters of monosaccharides or polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention, alkyl or polyalkyl esters of dextrin or inulin can be mentioned.

[0417] This may be a monoester or polyester of dextrin (which is derived from starch xvii) and at least one fatty acid (e.g., RC(O)-OH), and in particular corresponds to (XVIII) below: [ka] (In formula (XVIII): n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably in the range of 3 to 200, particularly in the range of 20 to 150, and especially in the range of 25 to 50. R1, R2, and R3 may be the same or different, and are selected from hydrogen or acyl groups (RC(O)-) (wherein the formula, the R group is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 7 to 29, particularly 7 to 21, particularly 11 to 19, more specifically 13 to 17, and even 15 carbon atoms), and it is understood that at least one of the R1, R2, or R3 groups is not hydrogen).

[0418] In particular, R1, R2, and R3 represent hydrogen atoms or acyl groups (RC(O)-) (where R is a hydrocarbon group as defined above), provided that at least two of the R1, R2, or R3 groups are other than hydrogen.

[0419] R1, R2, and R3 can all represent the same or different acyl groups (RC(O)), and in particular, the acyl groups are the same.

[0420] In particular, the value of n described above is advantageously in the range of 25 to 50, and especially in the general formula of the monosaccharide ester that can be used in the present invention, it is 38.

[0421] In particular, when the R1, R2 and / or R3 groups, which may be the same or different, represent an acyl group (RC(O)), this is preferably caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid These are derived from fatty carboxylic acids RC(O)OH, selected from acids, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, isohexanoic acid, 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, dodecenoic acid, tetradecenoic acid, myristoleic acid, hexadecenoic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepic acid, gondoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, sorbic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, punicic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid or stearolic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0422] Preferably, at least one type of dextrin palmitate is used as the fatty acid ester of the dextrin. This ester can be used alone or in mixture with other esters.

[0423] Advantageously, the degree of substitution of the dextrin fatty acid ester is 2.5 or less, particularly in the range of 1.5 to 2.5, preferably in the range of 2 to 2.5, based on glucose units. The mass-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester can be particularly 10,000 to 150,000, particularly 12,000 to 100,000, and even more so 15,000 to 80,000.

[0424] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide of the present invention is a dextrin ester, and more preferably, dextrin palmitate.

[0425] Dextrin esters, particularly dextrin palmitate, are marketed by Chiba Flour under the names Rheopearl KL2®, MKL2®, TL®, or KL®.

[0426] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is modified dextrin, preferably dextrin ester, and more specifically saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C of dextrin. 12 ~C 24 It is a fatty acid ester.

[0427] Preferably, the dextrin ester is saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 14 ~C 24 The dextrin ester is selected from fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, or esters of mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is selected from palmitic acid dextrin, such as Rheopearl KL2® and Rheopearl TL2® sold by Chiba Flour, myristic acid dextrin, such as the product sold by Chiba Flour under the reference name Rheopearl MKL2®, (palmitic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin sold under the reference name Rheopearl TT2®, (palmitic acid / hexyldecanoic acid) dextrin sold under the reference name Rheopearl WX, or mixtures thereof.

[0428] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is dextrin palmitate.

[0429] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is modified inulin, preferably an inulin ester, more specifically, inulin and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 12 ~C 24 It is an ester with a fatty acid.

[0430] Preferably, the inulin ester is saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 14 ~C 24 Fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably esters with stearic acid and mixtures thereof, are selected.

[0431] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is stearoyl inulin, for example, Rheopearl ISK2® and Rheopearl ISL2®, which are sold by Chiba Flour, or a mixture thereof.

[0432] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is modified cellulose, preferably cellulose ester, and more specifically, cellulose and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C2. 24 It is an ester with a fatty acid.

[0433] Preferably, the cellulose ester is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C. 10 An acid, preferably a C2-C6 acid, particularly a C2-C4 acid, is selected from, for example, acetic acid, butyric acid, or esters of mixtures thereof.

[0434] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is (acetic / butyric acid)cellulose, for example, Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate®, a registered trademark sold by Eastman Chemical.

[0435] Among polysaccharide esters, pullulan esters can also be mentioned. Pullulan is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units.

[0436] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a polysaccharide ester. The term "polysaccharide ester" means a polysaccharide in which at least one hydroxyl group is esterified with an acid to form an -OC(O)-R or -C(O)-OR ester group (where R represents a saturated or unsaturated group having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms, for example 13 carbon atoms).

[0437] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0438] According to other embodiments, the modified polysaccharides of the present invention are cationic. Preferably, such chemical or physical treatments to obtain at least one cationic group are applied to guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.

[0439] The cationic group may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and C6-C 30 Includes aliphatic chains.

[0440] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the modified polysaccharide is selected from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a group comprising at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), for example, an alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl group, or a mixture thereof, comprising at least eight carbon atoms. The alkyl group of the quaternized cellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose preferably contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl group preferably represents a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group, or anthryl group. C8~C 30 Examples of quaternary alkylhydroxycelluloses containing fatty acids include Quatrisoft LM 200 (registered trademark), Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A (registered trademark), and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (registered trademark) (C), all products sold by Dow Corning. 12 Alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (registered trademark) (C 18 Crodacel QM (registered trademark) and Crodacel QL (registered trademark) (C) are products sold by Croda. 12 Alkyl) and Crodacel QS (registered trademark) (C 18 Examples include alkyl and Softcat SL 100 (registered trademark), a product sold by Dow Corning.

[0441] The nonionic guar gum that can be used in accordance with the present invention is C1-C 20The (poly)hydroxyalkylammonium group can be modified, preferably with a C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl group; examples include a hydroxymethyltrimonium group, a hydroxyethyltrimonium group, a hydroxypropyltrimonium group, and a hydroxybutyltrimonium halide group, preferably a hydroxypropyltrimonium halide, and preferably a chloride.

[0442] Cationic guar gum modified with such hydroxyalkylammonium groups is sold by Solvay, for example, under the names Catationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F, Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0443] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from the following: - A polysaccharide ether called an alkyl polysaccharide, comprising 2 to 30 alkyl groups, preferably 2 to 10, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose or guar beans or mixtures thereof; preferably the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose comprising linear or branched alkyl residues with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms; preferably selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and preferably the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose; and - Polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0444] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from: dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethylcellulose, ethyl guar, and mixtures thereof.

[0445] The total amount of modified polysaccharides present in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.05% to 20% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, even more preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, and in a particularly preferred embodiment, in the range of 0.5% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0446] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of resin to the total amount of modified polysaccharide present in the composition is in the range of 0.05 to 200, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 100, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 50, better preferably in the range of 0.5 to 40, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 20, and more preferably in the range of 1 to 10.

[0447] additives The compositions according to the present invention may further include additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as organic UV shielding agents other than those described above; inorganic UV shielding agents; humectants, such as polyols, such as glycerol, propanediol, or pentylene glycol; fillers; colorants; thickeners or gelling agents; preservatives; chelating agents; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.

[0448] filler The compositions according to the present invention may also include at least one filler having organic or inorganic properties that can impart supplemental properties such as matte finish, coverage, durability, and / or improved stability.

[0449] The term "filler" should be understood to mean solid particles of any shape, colorless or white, provided in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, having organic or inorganic properties, impart body or rigidity to the composition and / or flexibility and uniformity to the makeup.

[0450] The filler used in the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a thin layer, a small sphere, a spherical shape, or a fiber, or any other intermediate form between these specified forms.

[0451] The fillers according to the present invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicone, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives, or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and miscibility of the fillers in the composition.

[0452] Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and silica-titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series or hydrophobic silica aerogel sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.

[0453] Examples of organic fillers include powders formed from polyamide, polyethylene, poly(methyl methacrylate), or acrylic acid copolymers, lauroyl lysine, polymer hollow microspheres, e.g., polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile polymer hollow microspheres, e.g., ExpanseL® (Nobel Industrie), (hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone) copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki Pigments Co., Ltd.), silicone resin microbeads (e.g., Tospearl® from Toshiba), synthetic or natural fine powder waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g., zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200 (Chemdal Examples include powders of elastomeric cross-linked organopolysiloxanes coated with silicone resins, particularly silsesquioxane resins, as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793, for example. This can also be cellulose powder, for example, sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. as the Cellulobeads series.

[0454] Silica particles In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention further comprises silica particles selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, silica particles other than those described above, and mixtures thereof.

[0455] i) Hydrophobic silica aerogel Hydrophobic silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing the liquid component of silica gel with air (particularly by drying). These are generally synthesized using the sol-gel method in a liquid medium, and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid; the most commonly used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO2. Such drying avoids pore shrinkage in the material. The sol-gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0456] The hydrophobic silica aerogel used in accordance with the present invention is preferably a silyl silica aerogel (INCI name: silica silylate).

[0457] The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to silica whose surface OH groups are silyl groups (Si-R). n This means any silica treated with a silylation agent, such as a halide silane, such as alkylchlorosilane, siloxane, especially dimethylsiloxane, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazane, so that it is functionalized with a trimethylsilyl group, for example.

[0458] For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, refer to U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725.

[0459] In particular, aerogel particles formed from hydrophobic silica (trimethylsiloxylated silica) surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are used.

[0460] The term "hydrophobic aerogel particles" refers to any aerogel-type particles whose water absorption capacity at the wet point is less than 0.1 ml / g, i.e., less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particles.

[0461] The absorption capacity, denoted as WP and measured as the wetting point, corresponds to the amount of solvent (expressed in grams or milliliters) that needs to be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. This is measured according to the "wetting point" method or method for determining the solvent (water or oil) absorption of powder, as described in standard NFT30-022. This corresponds to the amount of solvent adsorbed onto the usable surface of the powder and / or absorbed into the powder, as obtained by the wetting point measurement described below: Place a glass plate (25 × 25 mm) on a balance, weigh 1 g of powder onto the glass plate, and then add the solvent (e.g., water or isononyl isononanoate) dropwise. Gradually add the solvent to the powder, mixing the whole mixture regularly (every 3-4 drops) with a spatula. Stop adding the solvent when a homogeneous paste is obtained. The paste should be able to spread on the glass plate without forming cracks or lumps. Record the mass of solvent required to reach the wetting point. Take the average of three tests. Since the density of the solvent is known, estimate the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of solvent used from it. The amount of solvent absorbed corresponds to the ratio of Vs / m.

[0462] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the present invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured as a wetting point, in the range of 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably in the range of 6 to 15 ml / g, and more preferably in the range of 8 to 12 ml / g.

[0463] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area (SM) of 200 to 1500 m² per unit mass. 2 Range of / g, preferably 600-1200m 2 The range is / g, but better is 600-800m 2 The diameter (D[0.5]) expressed as a volume-average diameter is in the range of / g and is less than 1500 μm, preferably in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably in the range of 5 to 25 μm, more preferably in the range of 5 to 20 μm, and even better, in the range of 5 to 15 μm.

[0464] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) method, as described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938. This method corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the specific surface area of ​​the entire particle in question.

[0465] The diameter of the aerogel particles according to the present invention can be measured by static light scattering using the MasterSizer 2000®, a particle size analyzer commercially available from Malvern. The data is processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles, and for non-spherical particles, it is possible to determine the effective particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0466] The tap density of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in this invention is preferably 0.02 g / cm³. 3 ~0.10 g / cm³ 3 The range is preferably 0.02 g / cm³. 3 ~0.08 g / cm³ 3 It can be set to the range of

[0467] In relation to the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following procedure known as the tap density procedure: Pour 40g of powder into a graduated cylinder; then place this graduated cylinder in a Stav 2003® device from a Stampf Volumeter; then subject the graduated cylinder to 2500 consecutive tapping operations (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then directly measure the final volume Vf of the tapped powder with the graduated cylinder. The tap density is determined by the ratio of m / Vf. In this case, it is 40 / Vf (Vf is in cm³). 3 The unit is (m is expressed in grams).

[0468] According to one embodiment, the specific surface area (S) per unit volume of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention V ) is 5-60m 2 / cm 3 A range of preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 The range is better, 15-40m 2 / cm 3 It is within the range.

[0469] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: S V =S M It is given by ρ, where ρ is g / cm 3 This is the tap density expressed in units, S M is, m 2 This is the specific surface area per unit mass, expressed in units of / g.

[0470] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are inorganic materials, and more specifically, hydrophobic silica aerogel having the properties described above.

[0471] As an example of a hydrophobic silica aerogel that can be used in the present invention, we can mention the aerogel sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silica silylate), the particles of which have an average diameter of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area of ​​600-800 m² per unit mass. 2 It is within the range of / g.

[0472] Other examples include aerogels sold by Cabot under the reference names Aerogel TLD 201 (registered trademark), Aerogel OGD 201 (registered trademark), Aerogel TLD 203 (registered trademark), Enova (registered trademark) Aerogel MT 1100, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200 (registered trademark).

[0473] More specifically, it is sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (registered trademark) (INCI name Silica silylate), with an average particle diameter in the range of 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m². 2 Aerogels within the range of / g are used.

[0474] Cabot sells it under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100® (INCI name: silica silylate), with an average particle diameter in the range of 2 to 25 microns and a specific surface area of ​​600 to 800 m² per unit mass. 2 Aerogels in the range of / g are also used.

[0475] Hydrophobic aerogel particles constitute 0.05% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 8% by mass, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.3% to 3% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0476] Other silica particles Other silica that can be used may be untreated natural products. Examples include the silica offered by Hoffmann Mineral under the names Sillitin N85®, Sillitin N87®, Sillitin N82®, Sillitin V85®, and Sillitin V88®.

[0477] This can also be called fumed silica.

[0478] Fumed silica can be obtained by hydrolyzing volatile silicon compounds in a high-temperature oxyhydrogen flame to produce fine silica. This process makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silica having a large number of silanol groups on its surface. The silica can be chemically modified by chemical reactions that reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to replace the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, thereby obtaining hydrophobic silica.

[0479] The hydrophobic group can be one of the following: (a) Trimethylsiloxyl groups, particularly those obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silica thus treated is known as silylated silica, according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995); (b) Dimethylsilyloxy groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, in particular those obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is known as dimethylsilylated silica, according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995).

[0480] Other silica powders besides silicon aerogel can be listed in more detail below: - Porous silica microspheres sold by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name Silica Beads SB-700 (registered trademark); and by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. under the names Sunsphere (registered trademark) H51 or Sunsphere (registered trademark) H33; - Amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold by AGC SITECH under the names SA Sunsphere H33 (registered trademark) and SA Sunsphere H53 (registered trademark); - Precipitated silica microspheres, particularly those coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene, sold by Evonik Degussa under the name Acematt OK 412 (registered trademark).

[0481] More specifically, the silica powder used is porous silica microspheres, such as those sold by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name Silica Beads SB-700 (registered trademark), and by AGC SITECH under the names Sunsphere H51 (registered trademark) and Sunsphere H33 (registered trademark).

[0482] Silica particles other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, and very preferably 0.5% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0483] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, for example those described above, and other silica particles, for example those described above, particularly porous silica microspheres.

[0484] Additional colorants The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one additional coloring agent, preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0485] This amount is highly variable depending on the desired intensity of the coloring effect and the intensity of the color imparted by the target colorant, for reasons that are obvious, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of those skilled in the art.

[0486] Additional colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble, but may also be lipid-soluble.

[0487] In relation to the spirit of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic compound, usually an organic substance, that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and capable of imparting color.

[0488] Suitable water-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet root), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderflower), caramel, and riboflavin.

[0489] Examples of water-soluble dyes include beetroot juice and caramel.

[0490] For the purposes of this invention, the term "lipid-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic compound, usually an organic substance, that is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent that is miscible with fatty substances and capable of imparting color.

[0491] Suitable lipid-soluble dyes for use in the present invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural lipid-soluble dyes such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotene (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophyll (capsanthin, capsorbin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, and curcumin.

[0492] Form of composition The composition of the present invention can be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion, or an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0493] According to the first embodiment of the present invention, the composition is a single-phase oily composition.

[0494] According to another advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, which is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, or optionally in the form of a composition comprising a plurality of separate phases (such as a two-phase composition); preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0495] The term "water-in-oil emulsion" or W / O emulsion refers to a composition comprising an immiscible oily phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase is dispersed in droplet form within the oily phase (represented as continuous) so as to yield a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0496] Formulations having a continuous oily phase are preferred for the composition of the present invention, in which the factor that provides sustained performance is a natural resin solubilized in the oily phase. Furthermore, this form promotes the dispersion of the pigment, and therefore, due to its homogeneity (as demonstrated in the examples), the coverage obtained by the film obtained after applying the composition of the present invention is optimized.

[0497] The compositions of the present invention are particularly suitable for producing cosmetics having a fluid texture. Advantageously, the compositions according to the present invention are, more specifically, in the form of viscoelastic liquids to viscous liquids, with an elastic modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) between 0.1 and 20,000 Pa, more specifically between 1 and 5,000 Pa, and even between 10 and 1,000 Pa. The elastic modulus G* is measured with a stress-controlled rheometer, and the value in the viscoelastic plateau region at 25°C is adopted.

[0498] Purpose According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a composition for caring for the body or face, particularly the skin of the face.

[0499] According to other embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of keratin substances, particularly compositions for makeup on the body or face, especially the skin of the face.

[0500] Therefore, according to a subordinate embodiment of this model, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a makeup base composition.

[0501] The compositions of the present invention can, advantageously, be in the form of liquid products for applying makeup to the lips, particularly liquid lipstick.

[0502] According to other sub-embodied embodiments of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention can be advantageously provided in the form of a composition for applying makeup to the skin, particularly the face. Thus, it can be a foundation, eyeshadow, or blush.

[0503] This may also include mascara, eyeliner, concealer or corrector, eyebrow products, skincare products, sunscreen products, hygiene products or hair styling or dyeing products; or nail polish products.

[0504] This type of composition is prepared in accordance with the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0505] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following examples. Unless otherwise specified, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages.

[0506] The following embodiments will allow for a clearer understanding of the present invention, but these do not limit the nature of the invention. [Examples]

[0507] Examples - Part I component:

[0508] [Table 1]

[0509] [Table 2]

[0510] Preparation of composition Procedures and equipment used for each test: Each wax (C, D) was used by heating it to a minimum temperature of 60°C in Cetiol UT, allowing it to cool to ambient temperature, and then introducing it into the formulation in the mass ratios shown in the table below, according to the procedure described below: Each resin (A, B) was used at room temperature in a mixture of ethanol, isododecane and / or Cetiol UT in the mass ratios shown in the table below, following the procedure described below: - Mix the resin with the solvent (E, F, H) at room temperature using a disperser, stirring until completely dissolved. - Add a preliminary mixture of crystallizable fatty substances and stir the mixture at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes. - A selective gelling agent (Bentone) is sprinkled onto the resin / wax / solvent mixture. - Continue stirring the resulting mixture until it becomes completely homogeneous and the gelling agent is evenly distributed. - Weigh the entire mixture (beaker + mixture) and readjust the amount of volatile solvent (if any slight loss of volatile substances is observed); Next, the following colored starting materials: organic pigment RED 7 or coated inorganic iron oxide pigment are added at room temperature (25°C) using a rotor-stator, followed by the addition of alcohol (E).

[0511] Procedure for evaluating abrasion resistance in a dry state in the presence of oil The abrasion resistance of a specific composition is evaluated by measuring the color before and after scratching the dried film. The test procedure is detailed below.

[0512] Procedure for spreading the composition as a film: The product is spread on an applicator (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) where both the applicating speed and applicating distance are adjustable. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support on which the product is spread. Uncoated contrast charts with black and white backgrounds are used (one Bico chart, uncoated N2A, part number 2831). The coating thickness is adjustable using a rectangular applicator placed on the support, and when the platform is activated, it is spread by leveling. Different thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm are possible depending on the end face of the applicator. A thickness of 25 μm is selected to approximate the film thickness in vivo. A 960 g weight is placed on the applicator during application. The applicating speed is set to 1 inch / second, or 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried on a hot plate at 34°C, ambient RH (50% RH) for 24 hours.

[0513] Procedure for abrasion resistance testing: Abrasion resistance tests are conducted by measuring the color before and after scratching the dried film. Scratches are made on the end face of a coating tool with a 25 μm thickness using a wiping cloth (Chicopee® Veraclean). TM Apply small pieces of Polish Plus. When treating abrasions, place a 960g weight on the applicator. Set the speed of the device to 2.54cm / s.

[0514] The color of the abrasion was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d colorimeter before and after the abrasion. Contact measurements were performed to ensure that no external light was present. Selected settings: Aperture: 8mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; d / 8° geometry.

[0515] By performing color measurements on two types of backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB), the coverage rate (CR%), i.e., YBB / YWB × 100 (where YBB and YWB are the luminance values ​​measured on the black and white backgrounds, respectively), can be calculated to characterize the coverage of the foundation. These values ​​increase as the coverage of the foundation increases.

[0516] To evaluate abrasion resistance, the concealment rate before friction (CR dry deposit (%)) and the concealment rate after abrasion (CR fric dry deposit (%)) are measured. The ratio of [CR fric dry deposit / CR dry deposit] as a percentage × 100 represents the abrasion resistance of the coating: a higher ratio indicates higher abrasion resistance of the coating. Note: To obtain the values ​​for each opacity, at least two contrast charts are used for each composition, and three CR measurements are performed on each chart. Therefore, each CR value represents the average of six measurements.

[0517] The abrasion resistance of the dried film was tested for two types of colored compositions: 1) a composition containing iron oxide (a foundation prototype), and then 2) a composition containing organic pigments.

[0518] The oil resistance of the coating was tested for compositions colored with iron oxide.

[0519] The water resistance of the film was tested on a composition colored with organic pigments (a lipstick prototype).

[0520] Homogeneity test The homogeneity after drying is visually evaluated on a contrast chart. Homogeneity is assigned a score from 1 (inhomogeneous coating) to 4 (homogeneous coating). The evaluation of coating homogeneity is associated with various scores, which are described below. (In the table below, "-" means "not measured".)

[0521] [Table 3]

[0522] Evaluation of matte finish on contrast chart (in vitro): Procedure for spreading the composition as a film: The product is spread on an applicator (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) in which both the applicating speed and applicating distance are adjustable. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support on which the product is spread. A coated contrast chart (Erichsen type 24 / 5) with black and white backgrounds is used. The coating thickness is adjustable using a rectangular applicator placed on the support, and when the platform is activated, it is spread by leveling. Different thicknesses ranging from 50 μm to 200 μm are possible depending on the end face of the applicator. A thickness of 100 μm is selected to obtain a continuous coating and to avoid measuring the influence of the contrast chart. The applicating speed is set to 1 inch / second, or 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried in an oven at 37°C for 24 hours.

[0523] Matte finish test procedure: The matte finish test is performed by measuring gloss before and after spraying an artificial sweat solution onto the surface of a dry film. Spraying is performed while controlling the distance between the bottle and the chart. The sweat solution is a mixture of 80% Vichy water, 20% oleic acid, and 1% Oleth-10, prepared using Ultrax. This mixture is stored in a pump dispenser bottle at room temperature for up to 48 hours. The amount applied is 0.35g per chart, with a tolerance of 0.03g. After allowing the film to stand for 6 minutes, further surface measurements are taken.

[0524] The matte finish is measured using a Byk-Gardner type 60° mini gloss meter. Two 22mm self-adhesive Crowns DTM type rings, with a diameter of 22 x 36mm and reference number G022363M, are attached to the end of the gloss meter to prevent contact with the coating. Note: To obtain each gloss value, at least two contrast charts are used for each composition, and measurements are taken three times on the black areas of the charts. Therefore, each gloss value represents the average of six measurements.

[0525] Example 1 Evaluation of composition C2 and comparative compositions C1* and C3* according to the present invention

[0526] [Table 4]

[0527] When compound C1* (resin-free) is used, the coating obtained on the contrast chart is heterogeneous even when the thickness is increased to 100 μm.

[0528] Compound C3* (containing only resin) exhibits good homogeneity and good abrasion resistance in the presence of sebum, but has relatively low coverage and a less matte finish.

[0529] Formulation C2 of the present invention, which includes wax and resin, simultaneously exhibits good homogeneity, better coverage, better abrasion resistance in the presence of sebum, and a better matte finish (lower gloss).

[0530] Example 2: Comparison of compositions with various resin / wax ratios (lipstick formulations): Each composition contains a total of 9% by mass of wax and resin, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0531] [Table 5]

[0532] Formulations C4, C5, and C7 of the present invention, which contain candelilla or protium resin in combination with tribehenin, all exhibit good dry resistance and wet resistance.

[0533] In C4, increasing the mass concentration of the resin (resin > wax) provides improved resistance in both dry and wet conditions. In particular, it exhibits significantly superior abrasion resistance in dry conditions compared to C6*, where the ratio is reversed (wax > resin).

[0534] The formulations based on candelilla resin (C5) or protium resin (C7) have equivalent resistance to drying.

[0535] Examples - Part II - Modified Polysaccharide-Containing Products component: Lowe INCI Name Product Name Supplier D Tribehenin (TRIBEHENIN) SYNCROWAX HRC-P CRODA E Sunflower Seed Wax (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) E00167 SUNFLOWER WAX KOSTER KEUNEN F Trihydroxystearin (TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN) THIXCIN R PC ELEMENTIS G Carnauba wax (COPERNICIA CERIFERA(CARNAUBA)WAX)CERAUBA T1 BAERLOCHER H Glyceryl Dibehenate (and Tribehenin and Glyceryl Behenate) COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO MB GATTEFOSSE I BEESWAX CIRE D'ABEILLE BLANCHE KOSTER KEUNEN J Synthetic Beeswax (KESTERWAX K82P) K Euphorbia cerifera (CANDELILLA) Wax 7820 Light Special Candelilla Real Multicolor L Microcrystalline Wax PARACERA HW PARAMELT M Behenate Syncroax (Sorbitol / Sebacic Acid) Copolymer (SORBITOL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER) ORM-PW-(MV)CRODA Modified PS INCI name Product name Supplier N Ethylcellulose Aqualon EC N7 Pharma Ashland O Dextrin Palmitate (DEXTRINE PALMITATE) RHEOPEARL KL2 - OR CHIBA FLOUR MILLING Solvent INCI name Trade name Supplier P Denatured alcohol (ALCOHOL DENAT.) Q Isododecane (ISODODECANE) R Undecane (and Tridecane) Cetio L Ut Bass

[0536] Preparation of composition Procedures and equipment used for each test: Each resin (A, B, C) and modified polysaccharide ("modified PS" N) was mixed with a mixture of ethanol, isododecane and / or Cetiol UT at room temperature in the mass ratios shown in the table below, according to the procedure described below.

[0537] Each wax (D, E..., M) was mixed with Cetiol UT by heating it to a minimum temperature of 60°C, allowed to cool to ambient temperature, and then introduced into the formulation in the mass ratios shown in the table below, following the procedure described below.

[0538] Modified polysaccharide ("modified PS"O) was mixed with isododecane and / or Cetiol UT mixture by heating it to a minimum temperature of 60°C, and after cooling to ambient temperature, it was introduced into the phases containing each resin (A, B, C).

[0539] The resins (A, B, C) and modified polysaccharides ("modified PS"N) were mixed with solvents (P, Q) and magnetically stirred at 1200 rpm at room temperature (25°C) until completely dissolved.

[0540] A preliminary mixture of crystallizable fatty substances was added and the mixture was stirred at 1000 rpm for 10 minutes.

[0541] Continue stirring until completely homogenized.

[0542] A selective gelling agent (Bentone) is added sequentially to the mixture.

[0543] Continue stirring until the mixture is completely homogenized and the gelling agent has taken effect.

[0544] Weigh the entire mixture (beaker + mixture) and readjust the amount of volatile solvent (if any slight loss of volatile substances is observed).

[0545] Next, the following colored raw materials: organic pigment RED 7 or coated iron oxide inorganic pigment are added at room temperature (25°C) using a rotor-stator.

[0546] In Vitro Matting Effect Test Procedure on a Contrast Chart Procedure for spreading the composition as a film: The product is spread using an Elcometer 4340 Applicator, which allows adjustment of both the coating speed and coating distance. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support on which the product is spread. A contrast card with a black background and a coated white background (Erichsen type 24 / 5) is used. The coating thickness is adjustable by the applicator placed on the support, and when the platform is activated, it is spread by a scraping motion. Different cross-sections of the applicator allow for spreading at different thicknesses ranging from 50 μm to 200 μm. A thickness of 100 μm is selected to obtain a continuous coating and to avoid measuring the effect of the contrast card. The coating speed is set to 1 inch / second, or 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried in a 37°C oven for 24 hours.

[0547] Procedure for testing the matte finish: The matte finish test is performed by measuring the gloss of the dried film before and after spraying an artificial sweat solution onto the surface. Spraying is performed while controlling the distance between the bottle and the card. The sweat solution is a mixture of 80% Vichy water, 20% oleic acid, and 1% Oleth-10 mixed using Ultra-Turrax, and is stored in a pump bottle at room temperature for up to 48 hours. The amount applied is 0.35g per card, with a tolerance of 0.03g. After the film is allowed to stand for 6 minutes, the surface is measured again.

[0548] Glossiness is measured using a Byk-Gardner type 60° mini gloss meter.

[0549] Two 22mm self-adhesive rings (Crowns DTM, 22 x 36mm in diameter, reference name G022363M) are placed at the ends of the gloss meter to prevent contact with the covering.

[0550] Note: To obtain each gloss value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, and measurements are taken three times on the black areas of the cards. Therefore, each gloss value represents the average of six measurements.

[0551] Example II.1 Measurement of the effect of polymer (modified PS) and wax content in the presence of candelilla resin

[0552] [Table 6]

[0553] Example II.2 Gloss measurement by gloss test (sweat added after 6, 12, or 18 minutes)

[0554] [Table 7]

[0555] The initial matting effect of C4* (EC / candelilla 5 / 10) is already higher than that of C1* (10 / 20). The matting effect increases with increasing wax content and remains high even in the presence of sweat.

[0556] Example II.3 Gloss measurement (EC 5%, Candelilla resin 10% + wax, by type of wax)

[0557] [Table 8]

[0558] [Table 9]

[0559] Gloss measurement by gloss test (sweat added after 6, 12, or 18 minutes)

[0560] [Table 10]

[0561] With the exception of two fossil-derived synthetic waxes, microcrystalline wax and white beeswax, all waxes showed a high matting effect in the presence of sweat (<6.5 at T6 min).

[0562] Example II.4 - In Vitro Endurance Test on a Contrast Card Procedure for spreading the composition as a film: The product is spread using an Elcometer 4340 Applicator, which allows adjustment of both the application speed and application distance. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support on which the product is spread. Uncoated contrast cards with black and white backgrounds are used (one Biko chart, uncoated N2A, part number 2831). The application thickness is adjustable by a rectangular applicator placed on the support, and when the platform is activated, it is spread by a scraping motion. Different thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm are possible depending on the end face of the applicator. A thickness of 25 μm is selected to approximate the film thickness in vivo. A 960 g weight is placed on the applicator during application. The application speed is set to 1 inch / second, or 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried on a hot plate at 34°C, ambient RH, for 24 hours.

[0563] Procedure for abrasion resistance testing: Abrasion resistance tests are conducted by measuring color before and after scratching the dried film. Scratching is performed by fixing a small piece of tissue paper (ChicopeeO VeracleanO Polish Plus) to the end of a 25 μm coating tool. A 960 g weight is placed on the applicator during scratching. The speed of the platform is set to 2.54 cm / s.

[0564] The color of the abrasion was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d colorimeter before and after the abrasion. Contact measurements were performed to ensure the absence of external light. Selected settings: Aperture: 8mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; d / 8° geometry.

[0565] By performing color measurements on two types of backgrounds (black background BF and white background WF), it becomes possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the "opacity rate" (CR%), i.e., YBF / YWF × 100 (where YBF and YWF are the luminance values ​​measured on the black background and white background, respectively). This rate increases as the foundation's coverage increases.

[0566] To evaluate abrasion resistance, the opacity is measured before friction (CR Dry deposit (%)) and after friction (CR Rub dry deposit (%)). The ratio of [CR Rub dry deposit / CR Dry deposit] as a percentage × 100 represents the abrasion resistance of the coating: a higher ratio indicates higher abrasion resistance of the coating. Note: To obtain the values ​​for each opacity, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, and three CR measurements are performed on each card. Therefore, each gloss value represents the average of six measurements.

[0567] For a total of 9% [EC / candelilla resin / wax], the abrasion resistance of the film in contact with the surface in a dry state was measured, followed by the film's resistance to olive oil and sebum:

[0568] [Table 11]

[0569] Average value of the opacity (CR) of the coating before and after exposure to olive oil and artificial sebum in a dry state. When formulation 17* (without holding agent or cosmetic durability enhancer) is used, the coating on the contrast card becomes heterogeneous even when the thickness is increased to 100 μm. Coatings with a large amount of ethylcellulose (20*) show good CR, but in the absence of candelilla (18), they are not retained on the contrast card when rubbed in a dry state, in the presence of olive oil, or in the presence of artificial sebum. Composition 18 according to the present invention provides a homogeneous coating, good coverage, and good resistance to drying and aggressive factors such as olive oil and sebum.

[0570] [Table 12]

[0571] The ratio of [CR Rub Dry Deposit / CR Dry Deposit] in dry conditions, in the presence of olive oil, and in the presence of artificial sebum, multiplied by 100.

[0572] [Table 13]

[0573] The composition of the present invention, comprising a combination of candelilla resin, sunflower wax, and ethylcellulose, exhibits homogeneity of the coating, good adhesion, excellent abrasion resistance in a dry state, good retention in the presence of olive oil or sebum, and good coverage.

[0574] Examples demonstrate that natural resins can be effectively solubilized at room temperature (25°C), even in a semi-solid or solid state, by using specific combinations of volatile alcohols and volatile oils. Further combining this combination with crystalline fatty substances and modified polysaccharides results in cosmetic compositions that form a film after application. This film exhibits remarkable abrasion resistance, high coverage, and a matte finish.

[0575] In conclusion, the compositions of the present invention offer excellent blendability and desirable cosmetic properties, particularly strong and long-lasting abrasion resistance. This improved durability is observed in makeup properties such as coverage and matte finish, even when exposed to friction, water, oil, and / or sebum. Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention provide a pleasing sensory experience. This is achieved by using more natural ingredients that are renewable and / or exhibit good natural index and / or are naturally derived, more specifically plant-derived.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a physiologically acceptable medium: a - At least one type of volatile oil, b - At least one volatile alcohol, c - At least one type of natural resin, and d - At least one crystallizable fatty substance A cosmetic composition containing [the specified ingredient].

2. The mass ratio of the total amount of volatile oils and volatile alcohols to the amount of natural resin is greater than 1; preferably, - The mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1; and / or - The mass ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1. The composition according to claim 1.

3. The volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, and preferably C ８ ~C １６ Selected from isoalkanes; preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane, linear or branched C ９ ~C １２ Alkanes and / or n-undecanes (C １１ ) and n-tridecane (C １３ The composition according to claim 1 or 2, which is selected from a mixture of ) and, preferably, isododecane or contains isododecane.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the volatile oil is at least partially derived from plants.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably 1 to 30, preferably 3 to 20, preferably 5 to 18, and preferably 8 to 15.

6. The aforementioned volatile alcohol is C １ ~C ４ A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is selected from alcohols, preferably from: ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol and mixtures thereof; preferably ethanol.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of volatile alcohol to the amount of natural resin is in the range of 0.5 to 50, preferably in the range of 1 to 30, preferably in the range of 1.2 to 20, and preferably in the range of 1.5 to 15.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the mass ratio of the amount of volatile oil to the amount of volatile alcohol is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 100, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10, preferably in the range of 0.5 to 5, and preferably in the range of 1 to 4.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the mass content of volatile oil with respect to the total mass of the composition is equal to or greater than the mass content of volatile alcohol, and the mass content of the natural resin itself exceeds the mass content of natural resin, and preferably the mass content of natural resin is equal to or greater than the mass content of crystallizable fatty substances.

10. The aforementioned at least one type of resin is: a) akaloid resin, b) amber, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) peruvian balsam, e) toru balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resin, i) dammar, j) elemi, k) frankincense, l) galbanum, m) labdanum, n) mastic, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax, s) turpentine, t) rosins, especially rosin and rosinate, and u) tall oil, v) plant oil A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the resin is selected from resins extracted from physical waxes and mixtures thereof; preferably, the natural resin is selected from j), k), t), u), and v) and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin is selected from j), k), and v) and mixtures thereof; the resin is particularly capable of esterification, salt formation, adduct formation, phenol modification, dimerization, and / or hydrogenation; preferably, the resin is of plant origin.

11. It comprises at least one resin whose INCI name is one of the following terms: Euphorbia cerifera wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Protium heptafilm resin, Shorea robusta resin, or Glyceryl rosinate; and at least one of a mixture thereof; the resin is preferably Euphorbia cerifera wax extract A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by being selected from EXTRACT, candelilla wax extract, protium heptaphyllum resin, Shorea robusta resin, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the resin contains a terpene compound in an amount of at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass, preferably at least 50% by mass, more preferably at least 60% by mass, and even better, at least 70% by mass, based on the total mass of the resin.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the resin contains a polyterpene compound in an amount of at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and preferably at least 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the resin equivalent to 100%.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the resin contains a monoterpene or sesquiterpene compound in an amount of less than 70% by mass, preferably less than 60% by mass, preferably less than 50% by mass, preferably less than 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the resin equivalent to 100%, and preferably less than 15% by mass of the monoterpene or sesquiterpene compound based on the total mass of the resin equivalent to 100%.

15. The resin comprises at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, particularly selected from natural or chemically modified, preferably corohony resins, and in particular the resin comprises rosin acid, preferably selected mainly from abietic acid and pimaric acid, derivatives thereof, particularly derivatives obtained by polymerization, hydrogenation, and / or esterification of rosin acid with polyhydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol and mixtures thereof; preferably the resin comprises glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, di rosinate The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized by comprising at least one ester of rosin acid, selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, dimer dilinoleyl hydrogenated rosin, hexa(hydroxystearate / stearate / rosin acid) dipentaerythrityl, (dibehenate / hydrogenated rosin acid) glyceryl, (diisostearate / hydrogenated rosin acid) glyceryl, trihydrogenated rosin acid glyceryl, rosin acid glycol, hydrogenated rosin acid methyl, rosin acid methyl, hydrogenated rosin acid pentaerythrityl, hydrogenated rosin acid triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from rosin acid glyceryl.

16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the total content of the diterpene compound in the resin is at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and preferably at least 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the natural resin.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the at least one resin comprises at least one triterpene compound, preferably: a triterpene compound selected from α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amylon, β-amylon, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolaldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonealdehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, lupeol, epirupeol, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the resin is selected from frankincense resin, for example, protium heptaphyllum resin or Shorea robusta resin, and resin extracted from vegetable wax, for example, candelilla resin.

18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein the total content of the triterpene compound in the resin is at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and preferably at least 35% by mass, relative to the total mass of the natural resin.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the number average molecular weight of the resin is 10,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably 5,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably 2,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even more preferably 1,000 g / mol or less, particularly in the range of 250 to 1,000 g / mol.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the glass transition temperature of the resin is preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably in the range of 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably in the range of 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably in the range of 30°C to 70°C.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the softening point of the resin is preferably in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably in the range of 30°C to 100°C, and even more preferably in the range of 40°C to 90°C.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the resin is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 35% by mass, preferably 0.8% to 30% by mass, preferably 1% to 25% by mass, preferably 1.2% to 20% by mass, preferably 1.3% to 15% by mass, preferably 1.5% to 10% by mass, preferably 2% to 9% by mass, and preferably 3% to 8% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition which corresponds to 100%.

23. The crystallizable fatty substance is a crystallizable fatty substance derived from animals or plants, glycerol, and an ester of C １２ to C ２４ fatty acid, and a copolymer of sorbitol and C １２ to C ２４ fatty diacid esterified with a fatty acid, selected from, preferably, a triester of glycerol and behenic acid, a triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, a mixture of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and a copolymer of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferentially selected from a triester of glycerol and behenic acid, a triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid and sunflower wax, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22.​​​​

24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the crystallizable fatty substance is present in an amount of 0.01% to 40% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, preferably 1% to 10% by mass, preferably 1% to 9% by mass, preferably 1% to 8% by mass, advantageously 1.5% to 7% by mass, preferably 1.5% to 6% by mass, and preferably 1.5% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

25. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, wherein the mass ratio of the amount of natural resin to the amount of crystallizable fatty substance is 0.5 or more, preferably greater than 0.6, preferably greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 0.8, preferably greater than 0.9, preferably greater than 1, preferably between 0.5 and 100, preferably between 0.6 and 50, preferably between 0.7 and 30, preferably between 0.8 and 30, preferably between 0.9 and 10, preferably between 1 and 9, preferably between 1.1 and 8, preferably between 1.2 and 7, preferably between 1.3 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, and preferably between 1.5 and 3.

26. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, comprising at least one non-volatile oil in a mass content of preferably 50% or less, preferably 40% or less, preferably 30% or less, preferably 20% or less, preferably 15% or less, preferably 10% or less, and preferably 8% or less, based on the total mass of the composition; and / or the mass ratio of the non-volatile oil to the crystallizable fatty substance is 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.3 to 4, preferably 0.5 to 3, more preferably 1 to 2.5; and / or the mass ratio of the non-volatile oil to the resin is 0.01 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 3, and preferably 0.5 to 1.

27. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase having the composition described in any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the oily phase is a continuous oily phase.

28. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that it is an oily composition, particularly an anhydrous composition, preferably an anhydrous dispersion, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution; or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion; or in the form of a composition having a plurality of separate phases, for example, a two-phase composition.

29. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28, characterized in that it further contains an aqueous phase in a total mass content of 2% to 95% by mass, preferably 5% to 90% by mass, preferably 10% to 80% by mass, more specifically 15% to 70% by mass, preferably 20% to 60% by mass, and preferably 25% to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

30. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that the total content of the oily phase is in the range of 5% to 100% by mass, preferably 10% to 98% by mass, preferably 20% to 90% by mass, and preferably 30% to 80% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

31. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 30, wherein the volatile oil is preferably present in an amount of 1% to 90% by mass, preferably 2% to 70% by mass, preferably 3% to 50% by mass, preferably 5% to 45% by mass, preferably 8% to 40% by mass, and more preferably 10% to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

32. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 31, further comprising at least one pigment, preferably in particular a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular an N-acylated amino acid and / or salt thereof, in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or salt thereof, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which is coated with an organic pigment and / or titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide; the composition preferably comprises a pigment selected from organic pigments and / or titanium dioxide.

33. The composition according to claim 32, wherein the pigment comprises, with respect to the total mass of the composition, at least 0.5% by mass, preferably at least 1% by mass, preferably at least 2% by mass, preferably at least 5% by mass, more preferably 5% to 40% by mass, particularly 6% to 30% by mass, preferably 7% to 25% by mass, and more specifically, 8% to 20% by mass of pigment.

34. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33, comprising 10% by mass or less, preferably 5% by mass or less, of silicone.

35. The composition is substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers; preferably, the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, and preferably less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition; preferably, the composition is completely free of silicones other than film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers; preferably, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of silicones; advantageously, the composition is completely free of silicones, according to any one of claims 1 to 34.

36. It further comprises at least a modified polysaccharide, the modified polysaccharide being: - A polysaccharide ether called an alkyl polysaccharide, wherein the alkyl group comprises 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably derived from cellulose or guar or a mixture thereof; preferably the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose having linear or branched alkyl residues with 1 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms; preferably selected from ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, and preferably the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose; and - Polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof; Selected from, Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from: dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethylcellulose, ethyl guar, and mixtures thereof, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35.

37. The modified polysaccharide is present in the composition in an amount of 0.05% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.2% to 12% by mass, and / or The composition according to claim 36, wherein the mass ratio of the total amount of resin to the total amount of modified polysaccharide present in the composition is in the range of 0.05 to 200, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 100, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 50, better preferably in the range of 0.5 to 20, and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10.

38. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 37, in the form of a foundation, lipstick, mascara, eyeliner, concealer or corrector, eyebrow product, skincare product, sunscreen product, hygiene product, hair styling product or hair dye product, or nail manicure product.

39. A method for coating a keratinous substance, more specifically, a method for makeup and / or care of a keratinous substance such as skin, characterized by comprising applying the composition described in any one of claims 1 to 38 to the keratinous substance.

40. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 38 to improve the durability and / or abrasion resistance of a film obtained by applying the composition to the keratin substance.

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