A method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and at least one oligo / polyester.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and at least one oligo / polyester.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two different specific fatty acids and at least one oligo / polyester.

Background Art

[0002] Hair is damaged and weakened by external atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, hair dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing and repeated washing. Thus, hair becomes damaged and, in the long term, dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split, and / or softened or sensitive to humidity, making it difficult to handle, often accompanied by frizz, and / or difficult to style in a humid environment, especially a very humid environment.

[0003] Therefore, in order to overcome its drawbacks, it is common to rely on hair treatments that utilize compositions intended to properly condition the hair by providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially a soft feel (the hair no longer becomes coarse), good detangling properties that result in easy combing, and good manageability of the hair that allows for easy shaping.

[0004] However, such hair treatments, which are often based on silicone-based starting materials, can give the hair a greasy and heavy feel, which is not always comfortable for the user. Furthermore, such hair treatments have little or no effect on regulating the amount of keratin fibers and / or maintaining hair styles and / or hair discipline in a humid or very wet environment.

[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics, i.e., products designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major concern for contributing to the solution of global problems. Therefore, it has been proven that it is essential to propose more sustainable compositions and thereby enable the fulfillment of their environmental challenges, particularly by reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

Summary of the Invention

Problems to be Solved by the Invention

[0006] Therefore, there is a genuine need to develop a hair treatment method that can improve its drawbacks and, in particular, maintain or even further improve the quality of the fibers, especially softness, ease of detangling, smoothness, regularity and / or shine, and enable hair styling in a wet environment by continuously limiting the formation of shrinkage and / or an increase in hair volume in a wet environment. Such a method should ideally not use silicone starting materials.

[0007] Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that all or part of that objective can be achieved by the method according to the invention.

Means for Solving the Problems

[0008] According to a first aspect, the subject matter of the invention is a method for treating keratin fibers, comprising applying to the keratin fibers ● the following formula (I):

Chemical

[0008] , , , 1 , , is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups selected from (hetero)cycles such as hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), phenyl, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR a-or combinations thereof, for example, -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR a - Represents a hydrocarbon-based group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from; or -hydroxyl (-OH) or R b Represents a (heterocyclic) group such as phenyl that is optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from -(CO)-; □R a represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from hydrogen atoms, (-OH), amino(-NH2), or carboxyl(-COOH); □R b (C2-C 10 (Represents an alkyl group) At least two different compounds D independently selected from compounds of, its salts, its isomers, its solvates, e.g., its hydrates and mixtures; and ● One or more compounds E selected from oligoesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. The method includes step i) applying a composition (C) containing the above.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is the previously defined composition (C).

[0010] According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of the previously defined composition (C) for caring for keratin fibers, preferably for giving keratin fibers a soft and / or smooth feel and / or luster, more preferably for giving a soft and / or smooth feel.

[0011] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of the previously defined composition (C) to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or increase in hair volume in a humid environment.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] Regarding the object of the present invention, unless otherwise specified, it is as follows.

[0013] □ The term "keratin fiber" means a fiber derived from humans or animals such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora goat hair, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fiber is preferably a human keratin fiber, more preferably hair.

[0014] □ The term "alkyl group" means a saturated straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0015] □ "((C x -C y )) alkyl group" means an alkyl group containing x to y carbon atoms.

[0016] □ "Hydroxy((C x -C y )) alkyl group" means an alkyl group ((C x -C y )) in which at least one of its hydrogen atoms is optionally replaced by a hydroxyl (-OH) group. Therefore, (hydroxy)((C x -C y )) alkyl group represents an alkyl group ((C x -C y )) or a hydroxyl ((C x -C y )) alkyl group, that is, an alkyl group ((C x -C y )) in which at least one hydrogen atom is replaced by a hydroxyl (-OH) group.

[0017] □ "Di(hydroxy)(C x -C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to two (hydroxyl) (C) x -C y ) This refers to an ammonium salt supporting an alkyl group, and the aforementioned (hydroxyl)(C x -C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0018] □ "Tri(hydroxy)(C x -C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to three (hydroxyl) (C) x -C y ) This refers to an ammonium salt supporting an alkyl group, and the aforementioned (hydroxyl)(C x -C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0019] □ "Tetra(hydroxy)(C x -C y The term "alkylammonium salt" refers to four (hydroxyl) (C) x -C y ) This refers to an ammonium salt supporting an alkyl group, and the aforementioned (hydroxyl)(C x -C y The alkyl groups may be the same or different.

[0020] The term "(complex) cyclic group" means a cyclic group or a complex cyclic group.

[0021] The term "cyclic group" means a monocyclic, condensed, or uncondensed saturated or unsaturated, particularly aromatic, polycyclic carbocyclic ring containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, wherein the cyclic group may be substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected particularly from (C1-C6)alkyl, (C1-C6)alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl(-OH), or carboxyl(-COOH).

[0022] The term "heterocyclic group" means a monocyclic, condensed, or uncondensed saturated or unsaturated, particularly aromatic, polycyclic group comprising a 5-22 membered ring and containing 1-3 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen, or sulfur atoms, wherein the heterocyclic group may be substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected particularly from (C1-C6)alkyl, (C1-C6)alkoxy, (C1-C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl(-OH), or carboxyl(-COOH).

[0023] □ The term "unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group" means a hydrocarbon-based group containing one or more conjugated or unconjugated ethylenically bonded double bonds.

[0024] The term "oligoester" refers to a hydrocarbon chain containing 2 to 10 ester units (also known as ester monomers), which may be identical or different.

[0025] The term "polyester" refers to a hydrocarbon chain containing more than 11 identical or different ester units (ester units also known as ester monomers).

[0026] □ The term "isomer" refers to optical isomers, geometric isomers, or tautomers.

[0027] The terms "at least one" and "one or more" are synonyms and may be used interchangeably.

[0028] Methods for processing keratin fibers According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for processing keratin fibers as defined above.

[0029] Remarkably, the applicant has found that by the method according to the present invention, it is possible to maintain or further improve the quality of the fibers, particularly their softness, ease of detangling, smoothness and / or discipline and / or shine, and to limit the formation of frizz and / or increase in hair volume in a humid environment, thereby making hair styling easier in a humid environment.

[0030] Different compound D Composition (C) comprises at least two different compounds D independently selected from the compounds of formula (I) defined earlier, their salts, their isomers, their solvates, e.g., hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the salt of the compound of formula (I) is selected from the monovalent salts of the compound of formula (I).

[0032] More preferably, salts of the compound of formula (I) are salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts and tetra(C1-C) 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, di(C1-C 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, tri(C1-C 10 Selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C) 10 ) Selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, R 1 A is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, such as hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), phenyl, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR. a -, or combinations thereof, e.g., -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR a -(CO)-, or -(CO)-NR a- Represents an unsubstituted, saturated, or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, preferably containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from - and substituted by one or more identical or different groups.

[0034] According to one embodiment, composition (C) does not contain a salt of the compound of formula (I) defined earlier.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, at least one, preferably all, of the different compounds D are in a non-chlorinated form.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the different compounds D are in a non-chlorinated form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one different compound D in a non-chlorinated form to the total amount of another different compound D in a non-chlorinated form in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4. If composition (C) contains three or more different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form, it is sufficient for the molar ratio between any two of those different compounds D to vary between 0.25 and 4 to satisfy this criterion.

[0037] According to a more preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises two or fewer different compounds D, the two different compounds D being in a non-chlorinated form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form to the total amount of the other different compound D in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the different compounds D is in a non-chlorinated form, and at least one of the different compounds D is in a salt form, and the molar ratio of one total amount of different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form to the total amount of one total amount of different compounds D in a salt form in composition (C) is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100. If composition (C) contains three or more different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form and / or three or more different compounds D in a salt form, it is sufficient to satisfy this criterion if the molar ratio of one total amount of different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form to the total amount of one total amount of different compounds D in a salt form is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

[0039] According to a more specific embodiment, composition (C) comprises two or fewer different compounds D, one of which is in a non-chlorinated form and the other in a chloride form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of different compounds D in non-chlorinated forms to the total amount of different compounds D in chloride forms in composition (C) is 1 or more, preferably in the range of 1 to 100.

[0040] Composition (C) preferably comprises five or fewer different compounds D, more preferably four or fewer different compounds D, even more preferably three or fewer different compounds D, and even more preferably two or fewer different compounds D, independently selected from the compounds of formula (I) defined earlier, salts thereof, isomers thereof, and solvates, e.g., hydrates thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, different compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] [Table 1]

[0043] [Table 2]

[0044] [Table 3]

[0045] [Table 4]

[0046] [Table 5]

[0047] [Table 6]

[0048] [Table 7]

[0049] [Table 8]

[0050] According to a more preferred embodiment, different compounds D are selected from compounds 1-20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36, or 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] In a more preferred embodiment, different compound D is selected from compounds 1, 4, 16, or 17, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] According to a preferred modification, different compound D is selected from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers, their solvates, e.g., their hydrates and mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their isomers, their solvates, e.g., their hydrates and mixtures thereof, more preferably from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates, e.g., their hydrates and mixtures thereof.

[0053] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are preferably selected from the following compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] [Table 9]

[0055] [Table 10]

[0056] [Table 11]

[0057] (In the formula, X + Preferably a monovalent cation, more preferably an alkali metal salt such as sodium or potassium, an ammonium salt, or tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C) 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, di(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, tri(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 ) represents a monovalent cation derived from a salt selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(C1-C 10 (Represents a monovalent cation derived from a salt selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.)

[0058] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are more preferably selected from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, and their solvates, e.g., hydrates, and mixtures thereof, where X + These include alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, and tetra(C1-C) 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, di(C1-C 10 ) Alkylammonium salt, tri(C1-C 10 ) alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(C1-C) 10 ) represents a monovalent cation derived from a salt selected from alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0059] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are selected, more preferably, from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, and their solvates, e.g., hydrates, and mixtures thereof, where X + Na + , K + NH4 + , or Tetra (C1-C 10 ) Represents alkylammonium ions.

[0060] If one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are more preferably selected from the following compounds 1'' to 13'', their isomers, and solvates such as their hydrates, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0061] [Table 12]

[0062] [Table 13]

[0063] [Table 14]

[0064] In a particularly preferred embodiment, if one or more of the different compounds D are in salt form, they are selected from compounds 5'', 6'', their isomers, and solvates such as their hydrates, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0065] Preferably, composition (C) contains a total content of different compounds D in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass, preferably at least 0.05% by mass, more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 99.9% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 1% to 95% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C).

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, different compounds D are selected from the following combinations of compounds: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid in composition (C), wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid in composition (C), where the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 2 / 1; -A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferably 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid in composition (C), where the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid is preferably equal to 1 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and sodium laurate in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate in composition (C) is preferably equal to 4 / 1.

[0067] According to a more preferred embodiment, different compound D is selected from the following combinations of compounds: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid in composition (C), wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid in composition (C), where the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 2 / 1; -A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferably 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid in composition (C), wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid is preferably equal to 1 / 1.

[0068] According to the most preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3.

[0069] If composition (C) contains one of the combinations of the two compounds described above, the total content of the combination present in composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by mass, more preferably at least 0.05% by mass, even more preferably 0.1% to 99.9% by mass, and most preferably 1% to 95% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C).

[0070] Compound E Composition (C) also comprises one or more compounds E selected from oligoesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Compound E is preferably derived from the following: - Reaction of one or more polyols with one or more compounds selected from carboxylic acids F, carboxylic anhydrides and mixtures thereof, which contain one or more carboxyl groups; and / or - Polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - Ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

[0072] polyol According to a particular embodiment, compound E is obtained from one or more polyols preferably containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, particularly 2 or 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0073] According to certain embodiments, the polyol is an organic compound comprising a linear or branched, acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly 4 to 12 carbon atoms, or further 5 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, particularly 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, wherein the hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, particularly oxygen heteroatoms, particularly optionally ether functional groups. Examples of such polyols, though this list is not exhaustive, include: i) oses, especially pentoses, such as ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose or hexoses, such as allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, sorbose or even deoxyhexoses, such as fucose or rhamnose; ii) triols such as glycerol; iii) tetraols such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, and diglycerol; iv) pentols such as xylitol; v) hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol, or dipentaerythritol or triglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] According to certain embodiments, the polyol is an oligomer derived from one or more diols of formula (II)HO-ALK-OH, where ALK represents one or more hydroxyl groups, in particular a linear or branched C1-C18, especially a C1-C6 alkylene group which may be substituted with one hydroxyl group. In this case, the polyol is poly(C1-C 18 These are alkanediols. In particular, polyols are present in concentrations of 200-4000 g / mol. -1 , especially 300-3000 g.mol -1 The oligomer may be derived from one or more diols of formula (II) having a weight-average molecular weight of . For example, the compound of formula (II) is such that ALK represents a (C1-C6)alkylene group and the oligomer is a poly(C1-C6)alkanediol. In particular, 300-3000 g.mol -1Polypropanediol (also known as polypropylene glycol) having a weight-average molecular weight of 300-3000 g.mol. -1 Polyethylene glycol having a weight-average molecular weight can be cited.

[0075] According to another specific embodiment, the polyol may be selected from monosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment, compound E is -Diols and triols, e.g., propanediol, butanediol, e.g., 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, dilinol dimer alcohol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecanedimethanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-(dihydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; -Tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; - Pentol, for example, xylitol; - Hexol, for example, sorbitol and mannitol, or dipentaerythritol; -Polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6, or polyglycerol-10; and -the mixture It is obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from the following.

[0077] According to a more preferred embodiment, compound E is -Diols and triols, e.g., propanediol, butanediol, e.g., 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, dilinol dimer alcohol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecanedimethanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-(dihydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; -Tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; -Polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6, or polyglycerol-10; and -the mixture It is obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from the following.

[0078] In a more preferred embodiment, compound E is - Diols and triols selected from propanediols, butanediols, e.g., 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, dilinol dimer alcohol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, or tricyclodecanedimethanol; - Pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; -Polyglycerol-3; and -the mixture It is obtained from one or more organic polyols selected from the following.

[0079] Polyacid F According to certain embodiments, compound E is obtained from one or more polycarboxylic acids, which are also referred to herein hereafter as "polyacids," i.e., polycarboxylic acids comprising at least two carboxyl groups.

[0080] The polyacid may be acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and may contain at least two -C(O)OH carboxyl groups, particularly two to four -C(O)OH groups, more specifically two -C(O)OH groups.

[0081] The polyacid is preferably selected from polycarboxylic acids comprising at least two -C(O)OH carboxyl groups, particularly two to four carboxyl groups, particularly two carboxyl groups, and having a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the contained carboxyl groups) in the range of 2 to 54, particularly 2 to 50, more specifically 3 to 40, and even more specifically 3 to 36.

[0082] When polyacids contain two carboxyl groups, they are called dicarboxylic acids or diacids.

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid is 200 g.mol. -1 Polycarboxylic acids, particularly dicarboxylic acids, having the following molecular weights MM may be selected.

[0084] In particular, polyacids can be selected from oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, their isomers, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid is 200 g.mol. -1 Polycarboxylic acids having a molecular weight MM exceeding MM may be selected, particularly from dicarboxylic acids.

[0086] In particular, polyacids can be selected from fatty acid polyacids, especially fatty acid diacids, and especially fatty acid dimers.

[0087] The term "fatty (poly) acid" means a (poly)carboxylic acid comprising at least one linear or branched chain, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group) in the range of 8 to 38, particularly 8 to 36, particularly 10 to 36.

[0088] Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms in the fatty (poly) acid is even.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the polyacid is selected from the following compound of formula (III): HO-C(O)-ALK'-C(O)-OH(III) (wherein ALK' represents a linear or branched chain, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, which may contain at least one carbon ring, particularly one or two carbon rings, particularly monocyclic or polycyclic cycloalkyl type carbon rings, such as cyclohexyl or dekalinyl (cis or transdecalinyl), and the hydrocarbon chain includes a total number of carbon atoms in the range of 6 to 36, particularly 6 to 34, particularly 8 to 34), salts thereof with an organic or inorganic base, solvates thereof, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Examples of fatty acid polyacids include sebacic acid and fatty acid dimers. The term "fatty acid dimer" refers to the product of dimerization of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0091] More specifically, fatty acids that can be used to prepare fatty acid dimers can be selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Polyacids can be selected from fatty acid dimers containing a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 18 to 38, particularly 34 to 38, and more specifically, 36 carbon atoms.

[0093] In particular, the fatty acid dimer can be selected from the compounds of formula (III) defined earlier, where ALK' represents a hydrocarbon chain having a total number of carbon atoms in the range of 16 to 36, particularly in the range of 32 to 36, particularly in the range of 34, and incorporating at least one carbocyclic group, preferably one or two carbocyclic groups, more preferably a central carbocyclic group, particularly monocyclic or polycyclic cycloalkyl type, particularly cyclohexyl or dekalinyl, particularly cyclohexyl.

[0094] In certain embodiments, the polyacid may be selected from fatty acid dimeric diacids containing cycloalkyl groups, particularly cyclohexyl, bonded to a -C(O)OH group via C2-C10, particularly C4-C8, particularly C6 alkylene chains, wherein the cycloalkyl groups have particularly C4-C12, particularly C7-C9, particularly C8 alkyl side groups. In particular, the fatty acid dimer may be formed from C16-C20, particularly C18 fatty acids, such as oleic acid and / or linoleic acid. Fatty acid dimers are commercially available. An example is the fatty acid dimer sold by Croda under the reference Pripol® trademark, particularly cosmetic-grade Pripol® 1009. According to certain embodiments, the polyacid may comprise, or even constitute, a fatty acid dimeric diacid, such as Pripol® 1009.

[0095] Monoacid F According to certain embodiments, compound E is obtained from one or more monocarboxylic acids, which are also referred to herein hereafter as “monoacids,” that is, monocarboxylic acids containing a single carboxyl group.

[0096] Preferably, the monoacid is acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and contains a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 32, particularly 8 to 28, and more specifically 10 to 20 carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group included).

[0097] According to a preferred embodiment, the monoacid is non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, and contains a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group included) in the range of 6 to 32, particularly 8 to 30, more specifically 10 to 28, preferably 12 to 26, more preferably 16 to 24, and even more preferably 18 to 22.

[0098] If the monoacids used are of natural origin, they may, in particular, constitute a mixture of saturated and unsaturated acids having conjugated and / or unconjugated unsaturated properties.

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the monoacid is selected from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0100] According to the first modification, the monoacid is selected from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched chain, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing a total number of carbon atoms (carbon atoms of the carboxyl group) greater than 7, particularly greater than 8, more specifically in the range of 8 to 30, particularly in the range of 14 to 26, even more specifically in the range of 16 to 22, preferably in the range of 18 to 20.

[0101] As an example, monoacids can be selected from isostearic acid (saturated branched C18), stearic acid (saturated linear C18), linoleic acid (polyunsaturated linear C18), arachidic acid (saturated linear C20), behenic acid (saturated linear C22), capric acid (saturated linear C10), caprylic acid (saturated linear C8), salts with organic or inorganic bases, their isomers, their solvates, such as their hydrates and mixtures, preferably isostearic acid (saturated branched C18), capric acid (saturated linear C10), caprylic acid (saturated linear C8), salts with organic or inorganic bases, their isomers, their solvates, such as their hydrates and mixtures.

[0102] According to another variation, the monoacid is selected from (poly)cyclic, preferably polycyclic monocarboxylic acids, which include condensed, saturated and / or unsaturated, preferably unsaturated, particularly non-aromatic, monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic carbocyclic rings, comprising 5 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the carbocyclic rings are optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl.

[0103] Carboxylic acid anhydride According to a particular embodiment, compound E is obtained from one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides.

[0104] The term "carboxylic acid anhydride" refers to an organic compound that is obtained from the dehydration of a carboxylic acid and contains at least one -C(O)-OC(O)-functional group.

[0105] For example, the acid anhydride may be selected from trimellitic anhydride, phthalic anhydride, terephthalic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Hydroxy acid According to a particular embodiment, compound E is derived from the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids.

[0107] The term "hydroxy acid" refers to a monoacid or polyacid that contains a hydrocarbon chain substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0108] Hydroxy acids may be acyclic or (poly)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, and contain a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 4 to 32, particularly 4 to 28, and more specifically 4 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0109] For example, hydroxy acids can be selected from hydroxystearic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxyhexanoic acid, lactic acid, ricinoleic acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, their isomers, their solvates, such as their hydrates and mixtures.

[0110] Examples of compounds E resulting from the polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids include compounds with the following INCI names: polyhydroxybutyric acid, polyhydroxystearic acid, polylactic acid, 3-hydroxybutyric acid / 3-hydroxyhexanoate copolymer, and hydroxybutyric acid / hydroxypentanoic acid copolymer.

[0111] Lactone According to a particular embodiment, compound E is derived from the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

[0112] The term "lactone" refers to an organic compound in which the -C(O)-O- functional group is part of a ring.

[0113] For example, the lactone is selected from ε-caprolactone, gluconolactone, glucalolactone, butyrolactone, valerolactone, octaractone, galactonolactone, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the lactone is ε-caprolactone.

[0114] As an example, compound E can be derived from the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones: polycaprolactone.

[0115] It is understood that the specific manufacturing methods of compound E mentioned above may be combined.

[0116] Specific Embodiments According to a particular embodiment, compound E is obtained by reacting one or more of the previously defined polyols with one or more compounds selected from the previously defined monoacids F, polyacids F, carboxylic acid anhydrides, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] According to a more specific embodiment, compound E is derived from the reaction of one or more previously defined polyols with one or more compounds selected from the previously defined monoacid F, the previously defined polyacid F, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] According to the modification, compound E is derived from the reaction of one or more previously defined polyols with one or more previously defined monoacids F, particularly a vegetable oil selected from triglycerides.

[0119] According to another variation, compound E is derived from the reaction of one or more previously defined polyols with one or more previously defined diacitors F.

[0120] Therefore, according to this latter variation, compound E can be derived from the reaction of one or more diols comprising a C2-C10, preferably C2-C8, more preferably C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, the hydrocarbon-based chain may be interrupted by an oxygen atom, preferably selected from propanediols, butanediols, hexanediols, diethylene glycols, neopentyl glycols and mixtures thereof, comprising one or more diacitors F comprising a total number of carbon atoms (including carboxyl group carbon atoms) ranging from 2 to 54, particularly 2 to 50, more specifically 3 to 40, and even more specifically 3 to 36.

[0121] More specifically, compound E is derived from the reaction of one or more dimers and / or trimers of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably unsaturated fatty acids, with one or more diols.

[0122] In preferred embodiments, the saturated fatty acid dimer may contain 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups. The saturated fatty acid trimer may contain 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0123] Preferably, one or more unsaturated fatty acid dimers containing 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups are used.

[0124] Unsaturated fatty acid trimers may contain 3 to 6 conjugated or unconjugated unsaturated carbon atoms in their carbon chain.

[0125] Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer and / or trimer is a polycarboxylic acid containing at least 2 to 6 carboxylic acid groups per molecule. In preferred embodiments, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may contain 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer may contain 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0126] Preferably, one or more unsaturated fatty acid dimers containing 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid groups are used. Mixtures of unsaturated fatty acids and / or dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acids (which are nonpolymerized and therefore correspond to monomers) may also be used in the context of the present invention. In the case of such mixtures, a mixture containing more than 50% by mass of dimers, for example more than 90% by mass, preferably more than 95% of the acid in dimeric form, is preferred, with the remainder of the mixture being unsaturated fatty acid trimers and / or monomers. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers may optionally be hydrogenated after the unsaturated fatty acid polymerization reaction, particularly to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product. Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic acid or linoleic acid) are specifically marketed by BASF under the trade names Empol 1008, Empol 1004, Empol 1025, Empol 1011, and Empol 1062, and by Uniqema, International under the trade name Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid). Uniqema also markets hydrogenated fatty acid dimers under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

[0127] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is particularly preferably a linoleic acid dimer obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid, also known as dilinoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably plant origin. The plant-derived fatty acid may come from any plant source that produces the fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybeans or rapeseed may be used.

[0128] According to another variation, compound E is derived from the reaction of one or more previously defined polyols, one or more previously defined diacids F, and one or more previously defined monoacids F.

[0129] Therefore, according to this modification, compound E can be formed from at least glycerol, the aforementioned fatty acid dimers, particularly C34-C38, more specifically C36, for example, a cosmetic-grade product marketed by Croda as reference Pripol® 1009, and isostearic acid, or from alone.

[0130] Alternatively, according to this variation, compound E is pentaerythritol, at least one diacid F, preferably 200 g.mol. -1 More specifically, diacids F selected from oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, and mixtures thereof, as well as their optical and geometric isomers, salts with organic or inorganic bases, and solvates, e.g., hydrates thereof, and more preferably, at least one diacid F selected from adipic acid; and preferably a mixture of several monoacids having more than 7 carbon atoms, particularly 7 to 26 carbon atoms, more specifically 7 to 20 carbon atoms, more specifically 7 to 26 carbon atoms, e.g., a mixture of capric acid, caprylic acid, and isostearic acid, which may be formed from or alone from at least one monoacid F as defined above.

[0131] Compound E used in accordance with the present invention is 400 to 100,000 g.mol. -1 It may have a weight-average molar mass Mw within the range of [value]. The weight-average molar mass can be determined by size exclusion chromatography (SEC).

[0132] According to another variation, compound E is produced from the reaction of one or more previously defined polyols, one or more previously defined diacids F, and one or more previously defined carboxylic acid anhydrides.

[0133] Therefore, according to this last modification, compound E can be formed from neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, and trimellitic anhydride.

[0134] According to certain embodiments of the present invention, compound E is a liquid. The term "liquid compound" means a compound that begins to flow by its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0135] Compound E is more preferably derived from the following: - Reaction of one or more previously defined polyols with one or more previously defined monoacids F, particularly selected from triglycerides, and / or vegetable oils; - Reaction of one or more previously defined polyols with one or more previously defined diacitates F; and / or - Reactions of one or more previously defined polyols, one or more previously defined diacids F, and one or more previously defined monoacids F; and / or - Reactions of one or more previously defined polyols, one or more previously defined diacides F, and one or more previously defined carboxylic acid anhydrides; and / or - Polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - Ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones; To be understood, □The polyol is preferably, -Diols and triols, e.g., propanediol, butanediol, e.g., 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, dilinol dimer alcohol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecanedimethanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-(dihydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; -Tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; - Pentol, for example, xylitol; - Hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol, or dipentaerythritol; -Polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-6, or polyglycerol-10; and - Selected from the mixture; and / or □ Monoacid F is preferably selected from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched chain, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing a total number of carbon atoms (including carboxyl group carbon atoms) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferably 8 to 30; and monoacid F is further more preferably selected from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and / or □Diacid F is preferably selected from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and / or □The hydroxy acid is preferably selected from hydroxystearic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxyhexanoic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, isomers thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and / or □The lactone is preferably selected from ε-caprolactone, gluconolactone, glucalolactone, butyrolactone, valerolactone, octaractone, galactonolactone, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the lactone is ε-caprolactone.

[0136] According to a preferred embodiment, compound E is selected from polymers having the following INCI names: -Dimerized zirinorail dimerized zirinolate; -(Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer; -Polyhydroxystearic acid; -Hydroxybutyrate / hydroxypentanoate copolymer; -3-hydroxybutyrate / 3-hydroxyhexanoate copolymer; -Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic acid / diclycol crosspolymer; - Adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimellitic anhydride copolymer; -Polyethylene terephthalate; -Polybutylene terephthalate; -Polylactic acid; -Polycaprolactone; - Propanediol dilinoleate copolymer; - Adipic acid / neopentyl glycol copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate; -Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer diisostearoyl dilinoleate; - Capryloyl glycerin / sebacate copolymer; -1,4-Butanediol / succinic acid / adipate copolymer; -1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer; -Adipic acid / 1,4-butanediol / terephthalate copolymer; - Adipic acid / Dilinoleic acid / Hexylene glycol copolymer; -Adipic acid / fumaric acid / phthalic acid / tricyclodecanedimethanol copolymer; and -The mixture.

[0137] According to a more preferred embodiment, compound E is selected from polymers having the following INCI names. -Dimerized dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl; -(Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer; -Polyhydroxystearic acid; and -The mixture.

[0138] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) is: -A combination of lauric acid and oleic acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably 1 / 3; and □Polymers with the following INCI names: -Dimerized dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl; -(Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer; -Polyhydroxystearic acid; and - Containing one or more compounds E selected from the mixture.

[0139] Preferably, composition (C) contains compound E in a total content of at least 0.01% by mass, preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C).

[0140] Preferably, composition (C) contains different compounds D and E in total content amounts of at least 0.02% by mass, preferably at least 0.2% by mass, more preferably in the range of 0.2% to 100% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 1.1% to 100% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C).

[0141] Preferably, the mass ratio of the total amount of different compounds D in composition (C) to the total amount of compound E is 5 to 1000, preferably 5 to 200.

[0142] Composition (C) may also contain one or more pigments.

[0143] The term "pigment" refers to any pigment used to color keratinic substances. Its solubility in water at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) at 25°C is less than 0.05% by mass, preferably less than 0.01% by mass.

[0144] The usable pigments are selected from organic and / or inorganic pigments known in the art, particularly those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0145] These may be natural products, of natural origin, or non-natural products.

[0146] The pigment may be in the form of a pigment powder or a paste. It may be coated or uncoated.

[0147] The pigments may be selected from, for example, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent agents, or glitter flakes, as well as mixtures thereof, that have special effects.

[0148] The pigment may be an inorganic pigment. The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. Among the inorganic pigments useful for the present invention are iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.

[0149] The pigment may be an organic pigment. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopedia.

[0150] Organic pigments can be selected from, in particular, nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.

[0151] In particular, white or colored organic pigments include carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments classified under reference numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, and 74160 in the Color Index, yellow pigments classified under reference numbers CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, and 47005 in the Color Index, green pigments classified under reference numbers CI 61565, 61570, and 74260 in the Color Index, orange pigments classified under reference numbers CI 11725, 45370, and 71105 in the Color Index, and CI Red pigments classified by reference numbers 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 can be selected from pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0152] Examples of organic pigment pastes include products sold by Hoechst under the following names: -Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (CI 11710); -Cosmenyl Yellow G:Yellow 1 pigment (CI 11680); - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (CI 71105); - Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (CI 12085); - Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (CI 12490); - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (CI 51319); - Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (CI 74160); - Cosmenyl Green GG:Green 7 pigment (CI 74260); - Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (CI 77266).

[0153] The pigments according to the present invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in European Patent No. 1184426. The composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an inorganic core material, at least one binder for bonding an organic pigment to the core material, and at least one organic pigment covering at least a portion of the core material.

[0154] Organic pigments can also be lakes. The term "lake" refers to a pigment adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and therefore the resulting composite remains insoluble even when in use.

[0155] Examples of inorganic substrates for adsorbing dyes include alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or aluminum calcium borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0156] Among dyes, carminic acid is one example. Other dyes known by the following names are also listed: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0157] An example of a rake is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0158] The pigments may also be pigments with special effects. The term "pigments with special effects" generally refers to pigments that produce a non-uniform and variable colored appearance (characterized by a specific hue, a specific brilliance, and a specific level of brightness) depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angle, etc.). Thus, they differ from colored pigments that exhibit a standard, uniform opaque, translucent, or transparent hue.

[0159] There are several types of pigments that produce special effects: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearlescent agents, interference pigments, or luminous flakes.

[0160] Examples of pigments with special effects that can be mentioned include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxide, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium, and especially mica coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and coated with the organic pigments defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of pearlescent pigments include pearlisers such as Cellini (mica-TiO2-lake) sold by BASF, Prestige (mica-TiO2) sold by Eckart, Prestige Bronze (mica-Fe2O3) sold by Eckart, and Colorona (mica-TiO2-Fe2O3) sold by Merck.

[0161] Gold pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite), and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica), and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Products sold under the name Orange (17449) (Microna); brown pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the names Nu-antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-colored pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); reddish pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellowish pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); golden-colored red pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the name Tan Opale Products sold under the name G005 (Gemtone); golden-tinged black pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by BASF under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); silvery-tinged white pearlescent polishes, especially those sold by Merck under the name Xirona Silver;Also mentioned are gold, green, pink, and orange pearlescent lusters, particularly those sold by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Further examples of pearlescent agents include particles containing a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium dioxide.

[0163] Particles containing a glass substrate coated with titanium dioxide are sold by Toyal under the name Metashine MC1080RY.

[0164] Finally, as an example of a pearlescent luster, polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, particularly those sold by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes), can also be mentioned. Synthetic substrates, such as multilayer pigments based on alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum, can also be considered.

[0165] Pigments with special effects can also be selected from reflective particles, i.e., particles capable of reflecting incident light due to their size, structure, especially the thickness of the layers comprising them, as well as their physical and chemical properties and surface condition. This reflection can, where appropriate, be strong enough to produce visible bright spots on the surface of the composition or mixture when applied to a support to be made up, i.e., brighter spots that stand out more than their surroundings.

[0166] Reflective particles may be selected to optimize this effect, more specifically in terms of color rendering, so as not to significantly alter the color effect produced by the colorants they are combined with. More specifically, these may have colors or hues of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper.

[0167] These particles can have various forms, particularly plate-like or spherical forms, and especially spherical forms.

[0168] Reflective particles, regardless of their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure, and in the case of a multilayer structure, they may have, for example, at least one layer of a reflective material having a uniform thickness.

[0169] If the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed of metal oxides, particularly titanium oxide or iron oxide obtained by synthesis.

[0170] If the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, particularly a synthetic substrate, at least partially coated with a reflective material, especially at least one layer of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate can be made from one or more organic and / or mineral materials.

[0171] More specifically, this can be selected from, but is not limited to, glass, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, alumina, silica, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates and synthetic mica and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or metallic material.

[0173] Reflective particles are described in particular in Japanese Patent Publication No. 09-188830A, Japanese Patent Publication No. 10-158450A, Japanese Patent Publication No. 10-158541A, Japanese Patent Publication No. 07-258460A, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 05-017710A.

[0174] Further examples of reflective particles containing inorganic substrates coated with a metal layer include particles containing a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.

[0175] Small plate-shaped silver-coated glass substrate particles are sold by Toyal under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS. Glass substrate particles coated with nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold by the same company under the names Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525.

[0176] Particles containing a metal substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, or titanium may also be used, and the substrate is coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Examples include SiO2-coated aluminum powder, bronze powder, or copper powder, which are sold by Eckart under the name Visionaire.

[0178] Other examples include interference pigments that are not bonded to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments (these are either substances that fluoresce in daylight or substances that produce ultraviolet fluorescence), phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots, such as those sold by Quantum Dots Corporation.

[0179] The diversity of pigments that can be used in this invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, and it is also possible to obtain specific optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.

[0180] The size of the pigments used in the compositions according to the present invention is generally 10 nm to 200 μm, preferably 20 nm to 80 μm, and more preferably 30 nm to 50 μm.

[0181] The pigment may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersant.

[0182] The dispersant plays a role in preventing aggregation or floc formation of dispersed particles. This dispersant may be a surfactant, oligomer, polymer, or a mixture thereof having one or more functional groups that have a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, these may be physically or chemically bonded to the pigment surface. This dispersant also includes at least one functional group that is miscible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially C8-C20 fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol, for example, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, for example, the product sold by Avecia under the name Solsperse 21000, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold by Henkel under the trade code Dehymyls PGPH, or other polyhydroxystearic acid, for example, the product sold by Uniqema under the trade code Arlacel P100, and mixtures thereof are used.

[0183] Other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17000 sold by Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures, such as those sold by Dow Corning under reference numbers DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.

[0184] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with organic agents.

[0185] Therefore, pre-surface-treated pigments useful in connection with the present invention are pigments that have been subjected to a surface treatment with chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical, or mechanical properties using an organic agent, either entirely or partially, such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, and are then dispersed in the composition of the present invention. The organic agent can be selected from, for example, waxes, such as carnauba wax and beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and their derivatives, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc, or aluminum salts of fatty acids, such as stearic acid or aluminum laurate, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, (meth)acrylic polymers, such as polymethyl methacrylate, polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units, alkanolamines, silicone compounds, such as silicones, particularly polydimethylsiloxane, organofluorine compounds, such as perfluoroalkyl ethers and fluorosilicone compounds.

[0186] Surface-treated pigments useful in this composition may be treated with a mixture of the compound and / or subjected to several surface treatments.

[0187] Surface-treated pigments useful in connection with the present invention may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art, or they may be commercially available as is.

[0188] Preferably, the surface-treated pigment is coated with an organic layer.

[0189] Organic agents for treating pigments can be deposited on the pigment by evaporating the solvent, causing a chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface treatment agent, or by forming covalent bonds between the surface treatment agent and the pigment.

[0190] Therefore, surface treatment can be carried out, for example, by chemically reacting a surface treatment agent with the pigment surface to create a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the pigment or filler. This method is described in particular in U.S. Patent No. 4,578,266.

[0191] Organic agents that form covalent bonds with the pigment are preferably used.

[0192] The agent used for surface treatment may constitute 0.1% to 50% by mass, preferably 0.5% to 30% by mass, and more preferably 1% to 20% by mass, relative to the total mass of the pigment to be surface treated.

[0193] Preferably, the surface treatment agent for the pigment is one of the following: -PEG-silicone treatment agents, e.g., AQ surface treatment agents sold by LCW; - Methicone treatment agents, for example, SI surface treatment agents sold by LCW; - Dimethicone treatment agents, for example, Covasil 3.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW, - Dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment agents, for example, Covasil 4.05 surface treatment agent sold by LCW, - Magnesium myristate treatment agents, for example, MM surface treatment agents sold by LCW, - Aluminum dimyristate treatment agents, for example, MI surface treatment agents sold by Miyoshi, - Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment agents, for example, FHC surface treatment agents sold by LCW, - Isostearyl sebacate treatment agents, e.g., HS surface treatment agents sold by Miyoshi; - Perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment agents, such as PF surface treatment agents sold by Daito; -Acrylate / dimethicone copolymers and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment agents, such as FSA surface treatment agents sold by Daito; -Polymethylhydrogenosiloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment agents, for example, FS01 surface treatment agent sold by Daito, -Acrylates copolymer / dimethicone treatment agents, for example, ASC surface treatment agent sold by Daito, - Isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment agent, for example, ITT surface treatment agent sold by Daito, - Acrylates copolymer treatment agents, such as the APD surface treatment agent sold by Daito; - Perfluoroalkyl phosphate / isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment agents, e.g., PF+ITT surface treatment agents sold by Daito. Selected from.

[0194] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the dispersant is present together with an organic or inorganic pigment in the form of submicron-sized particulate matter.

[0195] The terms "submicron-sized" or "submicron" refer to pigments having particle sizes that have been pulverized by a pulverization method, with an average particle size of less than 1 micrometer (μm), particularly 0.1 to 0.9 μm, and preferably 0.2 to 0.6 μm.

[0196] According to one embodiment, the dispersant and the pigment are present in an amount (dispersant:pigment) of 1:4 to 4:1, particularly 1.5:3.5 to 3.5:1, or more preferably 1.75:3 to 3:1, depending on the mass ratio.

[0197] Therefore, the dispersant may have a silicone backbone, such as a silicone polyether, and may be an aminosilicone type dispersant. Suitable dispersants include the following: - Aminosilicones, i.e., silicones containing one or more amine groups, for example, those sold by BYK under the name and reference number BYK LPX 21879, and by Genesee Polymers under the names and reference numbers GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, - Silicone acrylates, for example, Tego® RC 902, Tego® RC 922, Tego® RC 1041 and Tego® RC 1043, sold by Evonik. -Carboxyl group-containing polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones, e.g., X-22162 and X-22370 sold by Shin-Etsu; epoxy silicones, e.g., GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682 and GP-695 sold by Genesee Polymers; or Tego® RC 1401, Tego® RC 1403 and Tego® RC 1412 sold by Evonik.

[0198] According to certain embodiments, the dispersant is of the aminosilicone type and is cationic.

[0199] Preferably, the pigment is selected from inorganic pigments, mixed mineral organic pigments, or organic pigments.

[0200] In one variation of the present invention, the pigment is an organic pigment, preferably an organic pigment surface-treated with an organic agent selected from among organic pigments, particularly silicone compounds. In another variation of the present invention, the pigment is an inorganic pigment.

[0201] Preferably, the pigments used in the method of the present invention are selected from pearlescent agents, carbon black, for example, Black 2, iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black iron oxides, and iron oxide-coated mica, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and purple triarylmethane pigments, for example, Blue 1 Lake, azo pigments, in particular red azo pigments, for example, D&C Red 7, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of litol red, for example, calcium salts of litol red B, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] More preferably, the pigment is selected from iron oxides, particularly red, brown, or black iron oxides.

[0203] Furthermore, and more preferably, the pigment is selected from red iron oxide.

[0204] An example of red iron oxide is the iron oxide sold by Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.

[0205] Composition (C) may contain a total pigment content in the range of 0.001% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.005% to 15% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C).

[0206] Other features of composition (C) Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, that is, a composition comprising a medium acceptable for cosmetic use, that is, a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.

[0207] Composition (C) may preferably contain water in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) contains a total water content of less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, more preferably less than 5% by mass, even more preferably less than 1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.1% by mass, and even better less than 0.01% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition (C). Even better, the composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0209] If appropriate, such a small amount of water can be introduced, inter alia, by the raw materials of the composition which may contain residual amounts of water.

[0210] The pH of the composition (C) is preferably from 2 to 11, more preferably from 3 to 9. The pH can be adjusted using organic acids or inorganic acids or organic bases or inorganic bases commonly used in cosmetics.

[0211] The composition (C) may contain one or more organic solvents selected from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] When present in the composition (C), this or its organic solvent may be present in the composition (C) in a total amount in the range of 0.01% to 98% by mass, preferably 30% to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition (C).

[0213] The composition (C) is preferably liquid.

[0214] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid composition" means, on a macroscopic scale, a composition which, unlike a solid, does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped. It is a fluid that conforms to the shape of a container placed at room temperature (25 °C). When poured into another container, the liquid retains its volume. Thus, a liquid has its own volume. In a stationary state, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal.

[0215] Composition (C) may be any form of provision conventionally used for hair care applications. In a non-limiting manner, Composition (C) may be in the form of a lotion, serum, cream, mousse, gel, spray, or lacquer.

[0216] Composition (C) may be used for rinse-off or leave-on applications.

[0217] Composition (C) may be in the form of a mask, a conditioning composition, or a pre-shampoo. Composition (C) may also be in the form of a composition that is added to or mixed with a mask or conditioning composition before application.

[0218] Composition (C) may be packaged in a pump bottle or aerosol container so that composition (C) is applied in the form of vapor (lacquer) or foam. In this case, composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.

[0219] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a coloring agent in a total content of less than 0.1% by mass, preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and more preferably less than 0.01% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably, the composition does not contain a coloring agent.

[0220] The term "coloring agent" refers to oxidation dyes, direct dyes, or pigments.

[0221] The term "oxidizing dye" refers to an oxidizing dye precursor selected from oxidizing bases and couplers. Oxidizing bases and couplers are colorless or pale compounds that yield colored chemical species through condensation reactions in the presence of an oxidizing agent.

[0222] The term "direct dyes" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, including extractive forms, other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that spread across the surface of fibers. They can be ionic or nonionic, i.e., anionic, cationic, neutral, or nonionic.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a total silicone content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even better less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even better, composition (C) is silicone-free.

[0224] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a total content of cationic polymer in less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably composition (C) does not contain cationic polymer.

[0225] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (containing no silicon atoms) that contains cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, but does not contain any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.

[0226] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a cationic surfactant in a total content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably composition (C) does not contain a cationic surfactant.

[0227] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) contains a poly(oxyethylene-containing) compound in a total content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably, composition (C) does not contain a poly(oxyethylene-containing) compound.

[0228] Examples of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol (PEG).

[0229] Composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers.

[0230] The bath ratio of composition (C) applied to keratin fibers can be in the range of 0.02 to 10. The term "bath ratio" means the ratio between the total mass of the applied composition (C) and the total mass of the keratin fibers to be treated.

[0231] This method, following step i), includes the following steps ii) to iv): ii) A step of applying composition (C) to keratin fibers, preferably for at least 10 seconds, optionally carried out under a trumpet or plastic film type airtight film; iii) A step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) It may include at least one additional step selected from the step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

[0232] Preferably, this method includes the above additional steps ii) and iv) and is carried out in that order. <0​​​​​​​​​​​​​ The drying step iv) may also be a combination of drying with air or drying with a heating device at a temperature in the range of 50°C to 80°C, such as a hair dryer or heating hood, which may be followed preferably by an ironing step using a straight iron.

[0237] Step i) and optionally steps ii) to iv) may be repeated as many times as necessary, and each cycle of the process may be spaced apart from the next cycle by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Hair treatments different from those of the present invention may be performed between, before, or after different application cycles.

[0238] Composition (C) According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is the previously defined composition (C).

[0239] use According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of the previously defined composition (C) for caring for keratin fibers, preferably for giving keratin fibers a soft and / or smooth feel and / or luster, more preferably for giving a soft and / or smooth feel.

[0240] According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of the previously defined composition (C) to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or increase in hair volume in a humid environment. [Examples]

[0241] The following examples will allow for a clearer understanding of the present invention, but they do not limit the nature of the invention. In the following examples, unless otherwise specified, all quantities are expressed as mass percentages of the total mass of the composition.

[0242] Compositions C1 to C3 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below.

[0243] [Table 15]

[0244] Method for preparing compositions C1 to C3 Weigh 1 mole of lauric acid into a flask and add 3 moles of oleic acid. Heat the mixture at 70°C for 1 hour with stirring. After the reaction medium has returned to room temperature, add compound E to the resulting liquid and heat the mixture again at 70°C for 20 minutes with stirring. After returning to room temperature, the composition is obtained in the form of a colorless, transparent, slightly viscous oily liquid.

[0245] Composition C4 was prepared from composition C0 according to the preparation protocol described below.

[0246] [Table 16]

[0247] [Table 17]

[0248] Protocol for preparing composition C4 Mix 10% by mass of composition C1 with composition C0. Heat the mixture at 60°C for 1 hour while stirring. After returning to room temperature while stirring, a smooth and uniform white cream is obtained.

[0249] Example 1: Evaluation of hairstyle hold in a humid environment Hairstyle hold, i.e., the formation of curls and increase in hair volume in a humid environment, was evaluated for compositions C1, C2, and C4 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0250] Hair bundles used A 2.7g bundle of Brazilian hair with a length of 27cm and type IV curl was used.

[0251] Evaluation protocol After washing the hair strands with DOP shampoo (0.4g per gram of hair), the test composition was applied.

[0252] Next, 81 mg of each test composition was applied to separate moist hair bundles, which were pre-squeezed and lightly tapped on absorbent paper. This application was performed by massaging the hair fibers with fingers.

[0253] Next, the hair strands were combed to untangle any knots and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity and 25°C for two hours.

[0254] Next, the hair bundles were placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity and 25°C for 24 hours.

[0255] Volume and curl were measured by measuring the width of the hair bundle at an intermediate height after it came out of the oven, and compared with the values ​​obtained for a reference hair bundle that had not been treated with the composition according to the present invention.

[0256] Evaluation results The measurement results for the width (cm) of the hair bundles at an intermediate height are summarized in the table below.

[0257] [Table 18]

[0258] It can be seen that the width value of the hair bundle at the intermediate height is lower for the hair bundle processed by the method according to the present invention than for the reference hair bundle.

[0259] Therefore, the method according to the present invention makes it possible to limit the formation of frizz and the increase in hair volume in a humid environment, even when silicone-based starting materials are not present.

[0260] Example 2: Evaluation of "smooth feel" by friction test The surface of natural hair is perceived as smooth, i.e., having a low coefficient of friction, while the surface of damaged hair is perceived as rough, i.e., having a high coefficient of friction.

[0261] Hair treatments that damage hair, such as dyeing and bleaching, are known to increase the friction coefficient of the hair.

[0262] As a result, the lower the coefficient of friction of the hair, the better the feel of the repaired hair, making it easier to comb and detangle the hair in both dry and wet conditions.

[0263] The "smooth feel" was evaluated for compositions C1 to C4 according to the evaluation protocol described below.

[0264] Hair bundles used For this test, we used bleached Caucasian human hair bundles (alkaline solubility AS22) with a length of 3.5 cm.

[0265] Evaluation protocol In this test, a 3.5 cm long hair bundle is fixed to a specimen holder on a Zwickiline Z2.5 mechanical testing machine (Zwick, Germany) equipped with a 100 Newton (N) measuring cell. A vertical force of 0.5 N is applied to the hair bundle using forceps covered with disposable plastic foam. The foam is replaced after each measurement. The testing machine is operated at a constant speed of 100 mm / min to remove the hair bundle from the forceps. During removal, the force required to remove the hair bundle is measured as a function of displacement. The resulting force / displacement curve is characterized by a plateau at the end of the stroke, and the average force at the plateau is recorded. The effect of the hair treatment on the frictional properties is determined by comparing the average force at the plateau of a reference hair bundle with the average force at the plateau of the treated hair bundle.

[0266] For measurement in a dry state (dry friction force), the hair is conditioned at 25°C and 45% relative humidity.

[0267] For wet measurements (wet friction force), the bristle bundle is immersed in desalinated water for 1 minute before measurement.

[0268] Compositions C1 to C4 were applied according to the leave-on protocol described below, and then dry and wet measurements were performed according to the protocol described above.

[0269] In this way, the force ratio between treated hair and untreated hair: F 処理 (N) / F 未処理 (N) was decided.

[0270] Leave-on protocol 1) Wash the hair strands with DOP shampoo using a bathing ratio of 0.4g per gram of hair; 2) Comb the hair strands; 3) While the hair is still wet, apply the composition to the hair at a bathing ratio of 0.15 g per gram of hair without any leave-on time; 4) Dry the hair strands at room temperature (22°C).

[0271] result The measurement results are summarized in the table below.

[0272] [Table 19]

[0273] Compared to untreated hair, lower friction is observed on both dry and wet hair treated by the method according to the present invention. The hair surface is smoother even without silicone-based starting materials. Treated hair is softer and easier to comb and detangle compared to untreated hair.

Claims

1. A method for processing keratin fibers, ●The following equation (I): 【Chemistry 1】 (In formula (I): □R １ teeth, - A linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, such as hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH) ２ ), carboxyl (-COOH), phenyl, etc., are optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from (heterocyclic) rings, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR ａ - or a combination thereof, for example, -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR ａ -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR ａ - Represents a hydrocarbon-based group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from; or -hydroxyl (-OH) or R ｂ Represents a (heterocyclic) group such as phenyl that is optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from -(CO)-; □R ａ is a hydrogen atom, or (-OH), amino(-NH) ２ Represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from ) or carboxyl (-COOH); □R ｂ represents a (C ２ -C １０ ) alkyl group) At least two different compounds D and independently selected from the compounds, salts thereof, isomers thereof, solvates thereof, e.g., hydrates thereof and mixtures thereof. ● One or more compounds E selected from oligoesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. A method comprising step i) applying a composition (C) containing the above.

2. R １ However, it is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, such as hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH). ２ ), carboxyl (-COOH), phenyl and other (hetero)cyclic compounds, and / or -O-, -CO-, -NR ａ -, or combinations thereof, for example -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NR ａ -(CO)- or -(CO)-NR ａ The method according to claim 1, which represents an unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably substituted with one or more identical or different groups selected from -.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the different compounds D, preferably all of the different compounds D, is in a non-chlorinated form.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least two of the different compounds D are in a non-chlorinated form, and the molar ratio of the total amount of one of the different compounds D in a non-chlorinated form to the total amount of another different compound D in a non-chlorinated form in composition (C) is in the range of 0.25 to 4.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein composition (C) comprises five or fewer different compounds D, preferably four or fewer different compounds D, more preferably three or fewer different compounds D, and even more preferably two or fewer different compounds D.

6. The aforementioned different compound D is selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: Table 1 Table 2 Table 3 Table 4 Table 5 Table 6 Table 7 Table 8 Preferably, the compounds are selected from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their salts, their isomers, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; More preferably, the method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, selected from compound 1, 4, 16 or 17, its salts, its isomers, and its solvates, such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

7. The aforementioned different compound D is the following compound combination: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 2 / 1; - Combinations of lauric acid and oleic acid in composition (C) where the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferably 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid is preferably equal to 1 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and sodium laurate in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of sodium laurate is preferably equal to 4 / 1; Preferably, the following combinations of compounds: - A combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 3 / 1; - A combination of capric acid and lauric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of capric acid to the total amount of lauric acid is preferably equal to 2 / 1; - Combinations of lauric acid and oleic acid in composition (C) where the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferably 1 / 3; - A combination of caprylic acid and capric acid in composition (C) in which the molar ratio of the total amount of caprylic acid to the total amount of capric acid is preferably equal to 1 / 1; The method according to claim 1, wherein composition (C) comprises a combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, selected from, and more preferably, composition (C), wherein the molar ratio of the total amount of lauric acid to the total amount of oleic acid in composition (C) is preferably 0.25 to 0.7, and more preferably equal to 1 / 3.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein composition (C) contains different compounds D in a total content of at least 0.01% by mass, preferably at least 0.05% by mass, more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 99.9% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 1% to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C).

9. The aforementioned compound E is - Reaction of one or more polyols with one or more compounds selected from carboxylic acids F, carboxylic anhydrides and mixtures thereof, which contain one or more carboxyl groups; and / or - Polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, derived from the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones.

10. The aforementioned compound E is - Reaction of one or more polyols with one or more monoacids F, particularly selected from triglycerides, and / or - Reaction of one or more polyols with one or more diacids F; and / or - Reactions of one or more polyols, one or more diacids F, and one or more monoacids F; and / or - Reaction of one or more polyols, one or more diacids F, and one or more carboxylic acid anhydrides; and / or - Polycondensation of one or more hydroxy acids; and / or - Derived from the ring-opening polymerization of one or more lactones, To be understood, □The polyol is preferably, -Diols and triols, such as propanediol, butanediol, such as 1,4-butanediol, hexanediol, dilinol dimer alcohol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, tricyclodecanedimethanol, trihydroxystearin, or 2-(dihydroxymethyl)butan-1-ol; - Tetraols, such as pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, or diglycerol; - Pentol, for example, xylitol; - Hexol, for example, sorbitol, mannitol, or dipentaerythritol; -Polyglycerin-3, polyglycerin-6, or polyglycerin-10; and - Selected from and mixtures thereof; and / or □The monoacid F is preferably selected from monocarboxylic acids comprising a linear or branched chain, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing a total number of carbon atoms (including carboxyl group carbon atoms) of more than 7, preferably more than 8, more preferably 8 to 30, and the monoacid F is further more preferably selected from capric acid, caprylic acid, isostearic acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, isomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and / or □The diacid F is preferably selected from dilinoleic acid, adipic acid, terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, sebacic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof with organic or inorganic bases, isomers thereof, and mixtures thereof; and / or □The hydroxy acid is preferably selected from hydroxystearic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxyhexanoic acid, lactic acid, salts thereof with an organic or inorganic base, isomers thereof, solvates thereof, such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; and / or The lactone is preferably selected from ε-caprolactone, gluconolactone, glucalolactone, butyrolactone, valerolactone, octaractone, galactonolactone, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the lactone is ε-caprolactone; The compound E is preferably a polymer having the following INCI name: - Dimerized dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl; - (Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic acid; - Hydroxybutyrate / hydroxypentanoate copolymer; -3-hydroxybutyrate / 3-hydroxyhexanoate copolymer; - Polyhydroxybutyrate; - Adipic acid / diclycol crosspolymer; - Adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimellitic anhydride copolymer; - Polyethylene terephthalate; - Polybutylene terephthalate; - Polylactic acid; - Polycaprolactone; - Propanediol dilinoleate copolymer; - Adipic acid / neopentyl glycol copolymer; - Pentaerythrityl isostearate / caplate / adipate; -Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate; - Capryloyl glycerin / sebacate copolymer; -1,4-butanediol / succinic acid / adipic acid copolymer; -1,4-Butanediol / succinic acid / adipic acid / HDI copolymer; - Adipic acid / 1,4-butanediol / terephthalate copolymer; - Adipic acid / dilinoleic acid / hexylene glycol copolymer; - Adipic acid / fumaric acid / phthalic acid / tricyclodecanedimethanol copolymer; and - Selected from the mixture; The aforementioned compound E is more preferably a polymer having the following INCI name: - Dimerized dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl; - (Dilinoleic acid / butanediol) copolymer; - Polyhydroxystearic acid; and - The mixture The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, selected from the following.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein composition (C) contains compound E in a total content of at least 0.01% by mass, preferably at least 0.1% by mass, more preferably in the range of 0.01% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 0.1% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C).

12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the mass ratio of the total amount of different compounds D in composition (C) to the total amount of compound E is 5 to 1000, preferably 5 to 200.

13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein composition (C) contains a total silicone content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even better less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even better, composition (C) does not contain silicone.

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein composition (C) contains a cationic polymer in a total content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably composition (C) does not contain a cationic polymer.

15. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein composition (C) contains a cationic surfactant in a total content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably composition (C) does not contain a cationic surfactant.

16. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein composition (C) contains a poly(oxyethylene-converted) compound in a total content of less than 5% by mass, preferably less than 2% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.01% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.001% by mass, based on the total mass of composition (C), and even more preferably composition (C) does not contain a poly(oxyethylene-converted) compound.

17. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein composition (C) contains a total water content of less than 30% by mass, preferably less than 10% by mass, more preferably less than 5% by mass, even more preferably less than 1% by mass, most preferably less than 0.1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.01% by mass, relative to the total mass of composition (C), and more preferably composition (C) is anhydrous.

18. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein composition (C) is a liquid.

19. Composition (C) is C ２ -C ４ The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising one or more organic solvents selected from alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

20. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet keratin fibers.

21. Following step i), the following steps ii) to iv): ii) A step of applying composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably for at least 10 seconds, which is optionally carried out under a wrapper or a plastic film type airtight film; iii) A step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, comprising at least one additional step selected from drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

22. The composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 19.

23. Use of the composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 19 for caring for keratin fibers, preferably for giving keratin fibers a soft and / or smooth feel and / or luster, more preferably for giving a soft and / or smooth feel.

24. Use of the composition (C) according to any one of claims 1 to 19 to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or increase in hair volume in a humid environment.

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