Multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting capability and its manufacturing method

Abstract

To provide a multibar warp knitted fabric that is light and transparent and has elegant and mysterious artistic effect and free-cut property in a free-cut woven fabric.SOLUTION: A multibar warp knitted fabric having free-cut property is knitted by a multibar raschel warp knitting machine. Density in warp direction of the multibar warp knitted fabric is 24 courses / cm or more and density in weft direction is 10 wales / cm or more. The multibar warp knitted fabric includes a base net layer and a pattern yarn layer. The base net layer adopts a pulling-against mesh structure. A base net yarn adopted in the base net layer includes a loop forming ground yarn, a weft insertion jacquard yarn, and a weft insertion spandex yarn. The loop forming ground yarn adopts a heat melting spandex core yarn. The weft insertion jacquard yarn adopts a normal spandex core yarn. The weft insertion spandex yarn adopts a spandex yarn.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of textile fabrics, and in particular to a multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cutting capabilities and a method for producing the same. [Background technology]

[0002] The definition of free-cut products is that they are made of synthetic yarns and elastic yarns, and have four-way stretch effect, and the edges are self-sewn. The products have the characteristics of no loose edges, can be cut at will, and do not need to be sewn. Free-cut fabrics free clothes from the constraints of edge marks, and have a comfortable and flexible wearing experience.

[0003] Regarding free-cut fabrics, weft knitted fabrics are currently widely used, and the reason for arbitrarily cutting multi-bar warp knitted fabrics is mainly due to the lack of elasticity in the weft direction. Ordinary multi-bar warp knitted fabrics have elasticity in the weft direction of only about 30%, which is quite different from the high requirement of free-cut fabrics that require 4-way stretch of 80% or more. In addition, it is difficult to achieve good fraying prevention, which is also an important factor restricting the development of free-cut products.

[0004] Giving multi-bar warp knitting, which has a light and transparent base material and an elegant and mysterious artistic effect, a free cutting function is a major innovation and greatly expands the application range of multi-bar warp knitting.

[0005] With the improvement of manufacturing technology level, certain areas of difficulties in the production of composite yarn have been overcome one by one, creating possibilities for the development of free-cutting of multi-bar warp knitted fabrics; and the improvement of the weaving level and process level of multi-bar warp knitted products has created good conditions for the development of free-cutting products on multi-bar Russell warp knitting machines.

[0006] Several technologies have emerged in the market to solve the problems of 4-way stretchability or fraying prevention. [Table 1]

[0007] As can be seen from Table 1 above, when anti-fraying functionality is added, the elasticity is restricted or reduced, making it impossible to meet the requirements for free cut 4-way stretch. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0008] The first objective of the present invention is to provide a multi-bar warp knitted fabric which is light and transparent, has an elegant and mysterious artistic effect, and has free-cut performance in free-cut fabrics, in order to meet the needs of new types of products.

[0009] The second object of the present invention is to provide a specific manufacturing method for a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free cutting capability as shown in FIG. 1, which realizes product knitting on a multi-bar Russell warp knitting machine and realizes the free cutting function of the fabric by combining with post-finishing. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solution: the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free cutting performance is knitted by a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, the warp density of the finished multi-bar warp knitted fabric is 24 courses / cm or more, and the weft density is 10 wales / cm or more, the multi-bar warp knitted fabric includes a ground mesh layer and a pattern yarn layer, The pattern yarn constituting the pattern yarn layer is woven into the inside of the ground net layer, The ground mesh layer adopts a mutually drawn mesh structure, and the ground mesh yarn adopted in the ground mesh layer includes a loop-forming ground yarn, a weft-inserted jacquard yarn, and a weft-inserted spandex yarn, the loop-forming ground yarn adopts a heat-meltable spandex core yarn, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn adopts a normal spandex core yarn, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts a spandex yarn.

[0011] Furthermore, the heat-fusible spandex core yarn includes a core yarn portion and an outer yarn portion, and the core yarn portion is made of heat-fusible spandex, or the outer layer is made of heat-fusible spandex and the core layer is made of regular spandex, or the heat-fusible spandex and regular spandex are twisted together.

[0012] Furthermore, the number of pattern yarn bars of said multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the weave density is greater than or equal to 12 courses / cm.

[0013] The manufacturing method of the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free cutting ability includes the following steps. S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select a weft insertion model of multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine as the knitting machine; S2. Selection of ground material: The loop-forming ground yarn is selected from heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is selected from ordinary spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn is selected from spandex yarn with a yarn density of 280D or less; S3. Threading of warp knitting machine: the loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion spandex bar adopts one-air-one threading, the pattern bar is selectively threaded according to the process, the loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full gauge arrangement, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts half gauge arrangement, and the weft-insertion spandex bar adopts full gauge arrangement; S4. Needle running mode: the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs a chain stitch structure or a modified chain stitch structure, the weft-inserted jacquard bar runs a pull-pull net structure, the weft-inserted spandex bar also runs a pull-pull net structure, and the pattern bar does motion knitting according to the needle running requirements set by the process; S5. Zero position selection: according to actual situation , mark Select the standard lace width zero position. 、 S6. Selection of pattern yarn: Select the corresponding material according to the characteristics of the pattern. S7. Weaving parameters: the weaving density is 12 courses / cm or more, the warp density of the finished product is 24 courses / cm or more, the weft density is 10 wales / cm or more, the loop-forming ground yarn let-off is 1100-1700mm / rack, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn let-off is 400-750mm / rack, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn let-off is 200-300mm / rack; S8. Post-finishing: De-oiling-molding-dyeing-remolding. The molding temperature is 190-198 degrees, the molding time is 40-55 seconds, the remolding temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the remolding time is 40-50 seconds.

[0014] Furthermore, the weft insertion model of the multi-bar Russell warp knitting machine in step S1 is a knitting machine equipped with one loop-forming ground yarn bar, a set of weft insertion jacquard bars, two weft insertion spandex bars, and 24 or more weft insertion pattern bars.

[0015] Furthermore, the knitting machine gauge in step S1 is an 18-28E gauge configuration.

[0016] Furthermore, in step S4, when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a chain stitch configuration, the wrapping code is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a variable chain stitch configuration, the wrapping code is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

[0017] Furthermore, the weft-insertion jacquard bar in step S4 includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the wrapping code of the jacquard 1 when it runs through the interleaved network structure is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and the wrapping code of the jacquard 2 when it runs through the interleaved network structure is 2-2 / 0-0 / / ; the weft-insertion spandex bar includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the wrapping code of the spandex 1 when it runs through the interleaved network structure is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and the wrapping code of the spandex 2 when it runs through the interleaved network structure is 1-1 / 0-0 / / .

[0019] Between steps S7 and S8, there is further included a step of evaluating the product and weaving a test pattern before production. Effect of the Invention

[0020] The advantages of the present invention, compared with the prior art, are that the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cut performance and the fabric produced by the manufacturing method thereof are mainly used in fashion clothing, and the products are skin-friendly and have a good touch. The products have the gorgeous appearance and complex pattern of the multi-bar warp knitted fabric, while at the same time, the flexibility and comfort of the free-cut product, and the boundaries between the fabrics can be blurred to a certain extent, which can expand the variety of products of the multi-bar warp knitted fabric. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0021] [Figure 1] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the interaction of the ground mesh structure of the present invention. [Diagram 2] 1 is a schematic diagram of a wrapping cord with a ground mesh structure according to the present invention. [Diagram 3] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a threading method for a ground net structure according to the present invention. [Figure 4] FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the arrangement of bars of a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine for weft insertion used in the present invention. [Diagram 5] FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing the configuration of a core yarn used in the present invention. [Figure 6] 1 is a table showing examples of the use of the weft-insertion yarn of the present invention. [Figure 7] 1 is an example table of a fabric elasticity test report of the present invention. [Figure 8] 1 is a test example table of the appearance quality evaluation report of the fabric after washing according to the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0022] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0023] An embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to Fig. 1 to Fig. 8. In this embodiment, a multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cutting performance is specifically knitted by a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine as shown in Fig. 1, the warp density of the finished multi-bar warp knitted fabric is 24 courses / cm or more, and the weft density is 10 wales / cm or more, the multi-bar warp knitted fabric includes a ground net layer and a patterned yarn layer, and the ground net layer adopts a cross-weave mesh structure. The multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine has a set of weft-inserted spandex bars, each set of weft-inserted spandex bars includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, and has two weft-inserted jacquard bars including jacquard 1 and jacquard 2. The needle running state of the cross-weave mesh structure of the ground net is shown in Fig. 2, the needle running of spandex 1 and spandex 2 are opposed to each other, and the needle running of jacquard 1 and jacquard 2 are opposed to each other to form a cross-weave mesh structure. As shown in Fig. 1, the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the jacquard yarn 3 are spaced apart, and the movement directions of any two weft-insertion jacquard yarns 2 and 3 are opposite to each other, which brings about a mutual pulling effect in the mesh. As shown in Fig. 1, the weft-insertion spandex yarn 4 and the weft-insertion spandex yarn 5 are spaced apart, and the movement directions of any two weft-insertion spandex yarns 4 and 5 are opposite to each other, which brings about a mutual pulling effect in the mesh. The ground mesh yarns used in the ground mesh layer include loop-forming ground yarns, weft-insertion jacquard yarns, and weft-insertion spandex yarns. The loop-forming ground yarns are made of heat-meltable spandex core yarns, and the weft-insertion jacquard yarns are made of normal spandex core yarns. The core yarn of ordinary spandex core yarn is spandex material, spandex is an abbreviation of polyurethane fiber, the melting temperature of this spandex is 230-250℃, the post-finishing shaping temperature of this spandex is much lower than this temperature, this spandex will not melt in the post-finishing process, the softening temperature of this spandex is 175-220℃, this temperature makes the spandex soft and relatively easy to change shape, when the temperature is lowered the shape is relatively fixed, and the shaping effect is obtained.The weft-inserted spandex yarn is made of spandex material, the melting temperature of which is 230-250°C and the softening temperature of which is 175-220°C.

[0024] The heat-meltable spandex core yarn includes a heat-meltable spandex core yarn and a filament outer yarn. The heat-meltable spandex core yarn is made of heat-meltable spandex, or the outer layer is made of heat-meltable spandex and the core layer is made of normal spandex, or the heat-meltable spandex and the normal spandex are twisted together. In the case of a simple heat-meltable spandex, when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, the heat-meltable spandex can be completely melted. When the outer layer is heat-meltable spandex and the core layer is made of normal spandex, the melting temperature of the normal spandex is 230 to 250°C, and the softening temperature of the normal spandex is 175 to 220°C. In such a structure, when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, only the heat-meltable spandex part of the surface layer is melted by heat, and the shape is reconstructed or bonded. When the core layer is ordinary spandex and is made by twisting the heat-melting spandex and ordinary spandex, when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, the single yarn of the heat-melting spandex part melts and is coated on the surface of the ordinary spandex, and some of the envelope yarns of the heat-melting spandex core yarn are bonded or bonded with other yarns. When the loop is bonded, the loop cannot be removed. In addition, the core yarn of the heat-melting spandex core yarn is a heat-melting spandex material, and the melting temperature of this heat-melting spandex is 90-150°C, and the post-finishing standard temperature of spandex is much higher than this temperature, and while ordinary spandex is not melted in the post-finishing process, the heat-melting spandex is partially melted, which realizes the transformation between the liquid state and the solid state and achieves the purpose of fusion.

[0025] The number of pattern yarn bars of the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the set yarn density is 12 courses / cm or more.

[0026] This multi-bar warp knitted fabric has an elasticity of 100-150% in the warp direction, an elasticity of over 80% in the weft direction, high elasticity in both the warp direction and the weft direction, and fraying prevention performance that meets the requirements for clothing. The fraying prevention performance means that it meets the requirements for preventing fraying of clothing fabrics during normal sewing, washing, and wearing. Furthermore, the high elasticity in the warp direction and the weft direction is measured by the method of Marks and Spencer test standard LTD03, and it meets the high elasticity fabric standard in two directions. And the free cutting function of the fabric is realized by the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine.

[0027] Another embodiment provided by the present invention will be described with reference to Figures 1 to 8. A method for manufacturing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting capability in this embodiment includes the following steps. S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select a weft-insertion model of the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine as the knitting machine. As shown in Figure 4, the weft-insertion multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine configuration is manufactured as a weft-insertion product, which has the characteristics of a flat fabric surface, thin and transparent, and easy to care for the fabric. S2. Selection of ground net material: The loop-forming ground yarn selects a heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less. The heat-meltable spandex core yarn can play a major role in preventing fraying of the fabric when it is finished. The weft-inserted jacquard yarn selects a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less. The normal spandex core yarn can provide a good guarantee for the elasticity in the weft direction when it is finished, and can play a certain auxiliary role in preventing fraying of the fabric. The weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts a spandex yarn with a yarn density of 280D or less. This spandex knitted fabric provides sufficient longitudinal shrinkage, provides a prerequisite guarantee for the realization of longitudinal elasticity, and ensures the wearing comfort of the fabric. S3. Threading of warp knitting machine: The loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion spandex bar adopts one-air-one threading, and the pattern bar shall be threaded selectively according to the process. The loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full gauge arrangement, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts half gauge arrangement, and the weft-insertion spandex bar adopts full gauge arrangement. S4. Needle running mode: As shown in FIG. 2, the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a chain stitch structure or a modified chain stitch structure, the weft-insertion jacquard bar runs in a pull-pull net structure, the weft-insertion spandex bar also runs in a pull-pull net structure, and the pattern bar does motion knitting according to the needle running requirements set by the process. S5. Zero position selection: According to the actual situation, select the standard lace width zero position equipped, and reduce the amount of needles installed. According to the product width restriction at the time of design, the lace width zero position is equipped according to the actual situation, and in order to speed up the lace change speed, the lace width zero position is standardized and the amount of needles installed is reduced. The finer the lace, the more cycles, and the more lace needles installed by the machine, the richer and more complex the pattern will be. This allows the fabric style and scope of use to be determined from the beginning of the design, and the fabric use to be more accurately planned in advance, making the product more distinctive and adaptable. S6. Pattern yarn selection: According to the characteristics of the pattern, select the corresponding material, and determine it according to the style in the case of design and process, combining with the knitting conditions of the machine. S7. Wefting parameters: The weft density shall be 12 courses / cm or more, the warp density of the finished product shall be 24 courses / cm or more, and the weft density shall be 10 wales / cm or more. The let-off amount of the loop-forming ground yarn shall be 1100~1700mm / rack, the let-off amount of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn shall be 400~750mm / rack, and the let-off amount of the weft-inserted spandex yarn shall be 200~300mm / rack. The let-off amount of the ground mesh yarn is jointly affected by the weft density, the type and distribution of the pattern yarn, the mesh size of the ground mesh, etc., and there are different wefting parameters for different patterns of the fabric. S8. Post-finishing: The method of de-oiling-pre-forming-dyeing-reforming is adopted, the pre-forming temperature is 190-198 degrees, and the pre-forming time is 40-55 seconds. The re-forming temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the re-forming time is 40-50 seconds. The parameters of pre-forming and re-forming are related to the type of grey fabric, thickness, and current process, the dyeing parameters are related to the yarn material and the type of dye, and the de-oiling parameters are related to the oil content of the grey fabric and the type of de-oiling agent. The purpose of post-finishing is to make the product have relatively good shape retention, flatness, and uniform color, and the deviation of the product from the target color is within the acceptable range. At the same time, it is also to make the product have the performance of dimensional stability, impact resistance, tensile resistance, washing resistance, fraying prevention, etc.

[0028] Continuing to refer to Figures 1 to 8, another embodiment of the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, the weft insertion model of the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine in step S1 is a knitting machine equipped with one loop-forming ground yarn bar, one set of weft insertion jacquard bars, two weft insertion spandex bars, and 24 or more weft insertion pattern bars. In general, the more pattern yarn bars there are, the more complex the knitted product pattern will be and the more expressive it will be.

[0029] Continuing to refer to Figures 1 to 8, another embodiment of the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, the knitting machine gauge in step S1 is an 18-28E gauge arrangement. In particular, this gauge is preferably an 18 gauge arrangement, a 24 gauge arrangement, a 28 gauge arrangement, etc.

[0030] Continuing to refer to Figures 1 to 8, another embodiment provided by the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a chain stitch structure in step S4, the wrapping code is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a variable chain stitch structure, the wrapping code is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

[0031] Continuing to refer to FIG. 1 to FIG. 8, another embodiment provided by the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, the weft-insertion jacquard bar in step S4 includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the two jacquard bars move in opposite directions and run according to a reciprocal network structure. When the jacquard 1 runs according to the reciprocal network structure, the wrapping code is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and when the jacquard 2 runs according to the reciprocal network structure, the wrapping code is 2-2 / 0-0 / / . The weft-insertion spandex bar includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the two spandex bars move in opposite directions and run according to a reciprocal network structure. When the spandex 1 runs according to the reciprocal network structure, the wrapping code is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and when the spandex 2 runs according to the reciprocal network structure, the wrapping code is 1-1 / 0-0 / / , as shown in detail in FIG. 2.

[0032] Continuing to refer to Figures 1 to 8, another embodiment of the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, the zero position of the lace width in step S5 is the zero position of the standard lace width defined by the company. The zero position of the lace width is standardized to reduce the amount of needle attachment.

[0033] Continuing to refer to Figures 1 to 8, another embodiment provided by the present invention will be described. In this embodiment, between steps S7 and S8, a step of evaluating the product and weaving a pattern trial before production is further included. Through trial weaving and advance control, product shortages can be found as early as possible and the problem can be solved in a timely and low-cost manner.

[0034] The characteristics of a normal multi-bar warp knitted fabric are as follows: 1. There are many patterns and you can freely change the patterns. 2. The style change of fabric thickness is large, and the design intent is easy to implement. 3. Elasticity in the warp direction is easy to achieve, with 40% to 80% elasticity being easily achieved (the ratio at which a fabric of a given width can be stretched with a given force, specifically measured according to the Marks and Spencer test standard LTD03 method), while elasticity in the weft direction is insufficient, with only about 30% being achieved, and it is extremely difficult to increase the elasticity in the weft direction. 4. Multi-bar warp knitting has a certain tendency to fray in the reverse knitting direction. Through the debugging of the grey fabric production parameters and the subsequent dyeing and finishing, the fabric can have a certain fraying prevention performance, but it cannot meet the demand for free cutting at all. 5. The multi-bar warp knitting fabric has a wide range of design possibilities and relatively high expandability, which gives the potential for special development of fabrics.

[0035] Based on the above features, the present invention precisely innovates and develops the principles of development, and unifies the planning of the overall design, processing, manufacturing, dyeing, packaging, and other steps to realize the production of products with new functions.

[0036] [Table 2]

[0037] The explanation will be based on Table 2 above. A. H shown in FIG. 1 is the cycle loop height of one complete loop-forming ground yarn 1 of the finished product when no external force is applied, and H1 (not shown) is the loop height of one complete loop-forming ground yarn 1 in the state of being subjected to force. Furthermore, in the case of being subjected to force, it includes the height of the cycle loop of one complete loop-forming ground yarn 1 when knitted with a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine when it is under tension, and the height of the cycle loop of one complete loop-forming ground yarn 1 when it is under tension when elasticity and fraying prevention tests are performed on the finished product after knitting. When designing a woven fabric, the elasticity of the woven fabric may be increased by making the loop height H1 in the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine larger than H. The loop-forming ground yarn 1 has a loop structure (like 0-1 / 1-0 / / in FIG. 1) that is intertwined with each other, and such a structure allows the woven fabric to be subjected to the action of an external force in the vertical direction, the loop arc becomes longer, the loop arc becomes narrower, the extension line becomes shorter, and it is possible to respond to an increase in internal stress. In addition, the weft-inserted spandex yarn 4 and the weft-inserted spandex yarn 5 have high elasticity (200% or more), and are stretched by tension and change with the change in height H1. When the external force in the vertical direction is removed, the high elasticity of the spandex yarn causes the fabric to shrink in the warp direction, and the fabric returns from the H1 height state to the H height state. In addition, the loop arc of the loop-forming ground yarn 1 becomes shorter and wider, and the extension line becomes longer, and the excess yarn due to the vertical height change is consumed, thereby maintaining the dynamic balance of the fabric. For the same type of fabric, the thicker the spandex, the greater the resilience, but the greater the impact on the mesh permeability. Therefore, a spandex of 280D or less is selected to ensure the mesh appearance and solve the problems of fabric elasticity and modulus.

[0038] B. The loop-forming ground yarn 1 shown in FIG. 1 is selected from a heat-fusible spandex core yarn having a yarn density of 70D or less. The structure of the heat-fusible spandex core yarn is divided into a core yarn 6 and an outer yarn 7 as shown in FIG. 5, the core yarn 6 being heat-fusible spandex and the outer yarn 7 being filament. The elasticity of the heat-fusible spandex is much greater than that of the filament, so the magnitude of the elasticity of the filament determines the magnitude of the elasticity of the entire heat-fusible spandex core yarn. Since the elasticity of the filament is 20-50% and the loop-forming ground yarn 1 is a loop structure formed, the loop arc becomes smaller and the extension line becomes longer under the action of the warp force, so that the loop state approaches that of a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, the loop is stretched and narrowed, and H1 becomes much larger than H. The above two factors can be combined to provide an elasticity value significantly exceeding 100-150% in the warp direction. In addition, taking into consideration the clarity and transparency of the ground mesh, a heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less is used. The thicker the yarn, the greater the impact of the connecting yarn on the mesh, causing the mesh to become blurred.

[0039] C. W shown in FIG. 1 is the loop width of one ground loop cycle of the finished product when no external force is applied. On the other hand, W1 (not shown) is the width when one ground loop cycle yarn is subjected to force, and further, in the case of the state of being subjected to force, it includes the width when one ground loop cycle loop is subjected to tension when knitted by a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, and the width when one ground loop cycle loop is subjected to tension when performing elasticity and fraying prevention tests on the finished product after knitting. The weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3 are connecting yarns between the loops knitted by the loop-forming ground yarn 1, and the whole of one fabric is formed by the connecting action of the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3. W1 is larger than W in the dimension on the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, and the yarn is in a packed state, which allows it to have elasticity in the weft direction. The combination state of the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3 directly determines the thickness and hole state of the finished product. The weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3 are driven by the jacquard bar in the multi-bar jacquard warp knitting machine. The role of the jacquard bar is to independently move the single weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3 in Fig. 1 based on the movement of the whole jacquard bar, and there are three states: winding only around one loop-forming ground yarn 1, winding around two loop-forming ground yarns 1 (winding state in Fig. 1), and winding around three loop-forming ground yarns 1. By combining these comprehensively, the hole, point and surface structures are formed as shown below.

[0040] The factors that determine the elasticity in the weft direction are as follows: 1. As shown in FIG. 1, the greater the elasticity of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3, the greater the ductility in the weft direction. Here, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 adopt a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less. As shown in FIG. 5, the core yarn 6 is elastic spandex, and the envelope yarn 7 is a high elastic yarn. Since the elasticity of the spandex is much greater than that of the high elastic yarn, the magnitude of the elasticity of the high elastic yarn determines the magnitude of the elasticity of the normal spandex core yarn as a whole, and since the elasticity of the high elastic yarn is 100-150%, it presents an elasticity value slightly smaller than 100-150% in the weft direction. In addition, taking into consideration the clarity and transparency of the ground net, a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less is adopted. The thicker the yarn, the greater the influence of the connecting yarn on the net, and the net becomes blurred.

[0041] 2. In Fig. 1, the length of the extension line at the point where the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 are connected to the loop-forming ground yarn 1 affects the elasticity in the weft direction. When the extension line of the fabric is stretched by the action of the weft direction force, the loop arc of the loop-forming ground yarn 1 becomes smaller, and yarn transfer occurs. When the elasticity of the loop-forming ground yarn 1 itself is relatively large or the loop arc is relatively large, the length of the pulled out loop-forming ground yarn 1 is relatively large, the pulling length appearing in the weft direction is relatively long, and the elasticity value is relatively large.

[0042] 3. In the loop-forming ground yarn 1 in Figure 1, when the height of the loop arc is higher, the total amount of yarn in the loop arc part is larger. This increases the length of the extension line drawn out by the external force of the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn 3, so that the smaller the density of the warp cycle, the longer the loop arc, the longer the total length, and the greater the elasticity of the fabric in the weft direction.

[0043] D. As shown in Figure 1, loop-forming ground yarn 1, the meanings of H and H1 are the same as those in A. Knit a loop, and the cycle height of the loop of the finished product is H, and the cycle height of the loop is H1 in a multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine. Based on this, the warp density of the fabric (the number of loop cycles per centimeter) is obtained, and in this invention, the warp density of the finished product is 24 courses / cm or more, the weft density is 10 wales / cm or more, and the weft density is 12 courses / cm or more. After dyeing, the fabric loses a little elasticity, but under the action of external force, the cycle height of the fabric loop becomes relatively close to H1, and the elasticity in the warp direction becomes relatively close to (H1-H) / H*100%, and the elasticity in the weft direction is as explained in detail in C.

[0044] E. The loop-forming ground yarn 1 in FIG. 1 is selected as a heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less. There are three types of heat-meltable spandex for the core yarn part in this type of core yarn. The first is a simple heat-meltable spandex, and when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, the heat-meltable spandex can be completely melted. The second is a skin-core structure, in which the outer layer is heat-meltable spandex and the core layer is normal spandex. In this structure, when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, only the heat-meltable spandex part of the surface layer is melted by heat and the shape is reconstructed or bonded, but the core layer remains normal spandex and does not change. The third is a combined yarn structure, in which heat-meltable spandex and normal spandex are combined to form the core yarn of the heat-meltable spandex core yarn. In this structure, when the environmental temperature exceeds the design temperature, the single yarn of the heat-fusible spandex part melts, and is covered with the surface of the normal spandex, and some of them are bonded to the outer yarn of the heat-fusible spandex core yarn or to other yarns (the intersections of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 and other patterned yarns are bonded as shown in FIG. 1). When the heat-fusible spandex component is subjected to heat, it becomes molten, and the liquid state is affected by surface tension and gathers at the intersections of the yarns or at the yarn concentration points, and when the environmental temperature falls below the design temperature, it becomes solid in an elastic state again. After such recombination, the following two beneficial effects are obtained. That is, first, due to the existence of adhesion, there are adhesion nodes between the yarns, which are effective in preventing the yarns from sliding, and the loops do not come off, and the loops are locked. This realizes the function of preventing fraying. Second, the yarns in the heat-melting portion are bundled at their concentration points, and do not form adhesive nodes between the yarns, but they act to stabilize the shape of the accumulated yarns, creating shape memory. A certain force is required to destroy such memory. Such an accumulation position is realized by elastic heat-melting yarns, which have elasticity due to spandex, and will recover to their original state after the external force is removed, and the shape memory will continue to function, and the fabric will also have the ability to resist changes accordingly. In other words, it has anti-fraying properties.Of course, these two gain effects may reduce the anti-fraying ability in extreme cases. For example, when the external force is large enough to exhaust the stretching ability of the yarn and loop and destroy the loop structure and yarn structure, the adhesion node and shape memory formed by the heat-fusible yarn after melting are destroyed, and the anti-fraying ability is reduced. However, such destruction does not remove the melt adhesion point from the yarn, but forms an uneven node on the yarn, and such a node increases the friction force between the yarns. In particular, in the case of a ground net structure with loops as the base unit, such a friction force increases the difficulty of the loop-forming ground yarn 1 to escape from the loop, or causes an abnormality in the fraying process, and locks the loops with reverse joining to exert a certain anti-fraying ability.

[0045] F. As shown in Figure 1, the weft-insertion jacquard selects a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less. In this type of yarn, the core yarn is normal spandex, and the spandex provides elastic shrinkability and contributes to ensuring elasticity in the weft direction. At the same time, the spandex shrinks and the weft-insertion jacquard yarn is stretched with a certain force to the extension line of the loop-forming ground yarn 1, so that the loop of the loop-forming ground yarn 1 becomes tight, and the loop structure becomes tight, which greatly improves the anti-fraying performance of the loop.

[0046] G. The use of interwoven mesh strengthens the tear strength of the loop. In addition, the interwoven mesh balances the internal stress on each side, making the fabric more stable. This reduces the inherent tendency to fray, and to some extent reduces the fraying performance. Of course, the use of interwoven mesh structure increases the production cost and requires special machine configuration, process design technology and manufacturing technology, which will be described in detail below as technical points. EXAMPLES

[0047] The process includes the following steps: S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select a weft insertion model of multi-bar raschel warp knitting as the knitting machine.

[0048] The weft-insertion warp knitting machine configuration shown in Figure 4 produces a weft-insertion product. The weft-insertion product has the characteristics of a flat fabric surface, thin and transparent, and easy to care for. The machine adopted in this invention is a XGM84 / 1(24E) multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine manufactured by Fujian Shingang Spinning Machinery Co., Ltd. As shown in Figure 4, the layout of this multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine is as shown in Table 3 below, from the front of the machine to the rear of the machine: [Table 3]

[0049] Bar number interval: This is a written notation of the bar distribution state, and is widely defined in various textbooks. GB means bottom bar, and the loop fabric bar and the two weft-inserted spandex bars have the same type of number. PB means patterned yarn bar, which the driving patterned yarn moves according to the design trajectory, and is numbered sequentially from front to back and left to right. JB is the code name of weft-inserted jacquard bar, and is numbered sequentially in the same way. Numbering in this way ensures a perfect one-to-one correspondence between design, process and manufacturing, which improves work efficiency.

[0050] Working line: In order to prevent the confusion of multiple needles, the movable range of each needle in the corresponding bar is specified in the front, back, left and right directions, and mutual interference is avoided, thereby improving the accuracy and regularity of the machine operation. Each bar is driven by a corresponding unique motor to pull the bar to move back and forth, move the thread guide needle on the bar, and move according to the command of the pattern file, thereby realizing the design purpose. In this embodiment, there is one ground bar, 80 pattern thread bars, one set of jacquard bars (two independent weft-inserted jacquard bars), and two weft-inserted spandex bars. The abundant number of pattern thread bars provides conditions for knitting complex pattern patterns and gives the pattern strong expressiveness, and the set of jacquard bars (two independent weft-inserted jacquard bars) and two weft-inserted spandex bars provide conditions for the interwoven mesh structure.

[0051] The machine gauge of the multi-bar Russell warp knitting machine in this embodiment is 24E, which is suitable for products with relatively high knitting precision and is suitable for the manufacture of most free cut products.

[0052] S2. Selection of mesh material: The thickness and mesh structure of the mesh material determine the style of the fabric. The product in this example is designed to be lightweight and thin, and the following materials are used: The loop-forming ground yarn is selected as a heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 30D. The weft-inserted jacquard yarn is selected as a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 40D. The weft-inserted spandex yarn is selected as a spandex yarn with a yarn density of 70D.

[0053] The core yarn structure as shown in Fig. 5 is composed of a core yarn 6 and an envelope yarn 7, which forms a core yarn suitable for knitting after compounding. When the material of the core yarn 6 is a heat-melting spandex, the material of the envelope yarn 7 is a filament, and when the material of the core yarn 6 is a normal spandex, the material of the envelope yarn 7 is a high elasticity yarn, and the elasticity of the envelope yarn itself is combined with the characteristics of the processing process to give the core yarn a relatively large ductility and ensure the high elasticity of the fabric. The compounding process of the yarn includes, but is not limited to, covered yarn and air covered yarn.

[0054] Since the ground yarn has a large number of strands, a warp beam is used to supply the yarn. By turning the yarn into a warp beam through the warping process, the uniformity of the yarn tension can be improved, which leads to improved product quality.

[0055] The above yarn selection can ensure that the fabric has relatively good elasticity in four directions, and can also ensure that the fabric has the function of arbitrary cutting.

[0056] S3. Threading of warp knitting machine: The threading method and needle alignment at the initial zero position of the bar of the present invention are as shown in Fig. 3, the loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts full threading, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts one-air-one threading method, the loop-forming ground yarn bar adopts full gauge arrangement, the weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts half gauge arrangement, and the weft-insertion spandex bar adopts full gauge arrangement. The weft-insertion jacquard bar includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, and the weft-insertion spandex bar includes spandex 1 and spandex 2. At the initial zero position of the bar, the alignment from the left side aligns the first needle of the loop-forming ground yarn bar, the first needle of the first weft-insertion jacquard bar, and the first needle of the first weft-insertion spandex bar, and the first needle of the second weft-insertion jacquard bar and the second needle of the loop-forming ground yarn bar. As shown in FIG. 3, in the case of threading, the loop-forming ground yarn bar, Jacquard 1, and Jacquard 2 are all fully threaded, with the yarn being threaded at the odd-numbered needle position from the left of Spandex 1, and the yarn being threaded at the even-numbered needle position from the left of Spandex 2.

[0057] The pattern bar is selectively threaded according to the process, and there is a difference between threaded and vacant needles on the pattern thread bar, and threads are threaded as necessary according to the threading instruction chart of the specialized pattern thread.

[0058] S4. Needle running mode: The loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a chain stitch structure or a variable chain stitch structure, the weft-insertion jacquard bar runs in a double-pull net structure, and the weft-insertion spandex bar also runs in a double-pull net structure. As shown in Figure 2, the wrapping code of the loop-forming ground yarn bar is (0-1 / 1-0 / / ), the weft-insertion jacquard bar includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the wrapping code of jacquard 1 is (0-0 / 2-2 / / ), and the wrapping code of jacquard 2 is (2-2 / 0-0 / / ). The two jacquard bars move in opposite directions and run in a double-pull net structure. The weft-insertion spandex bar includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the wrapping code of spandex 1 is (0-0 / 1-1 / / ), and the wrapping code of spandex 2 is (1-1 / 0-0 / / ). The two spandex bars move in opposite directions and run through a cross-woven mesh structure. The pattern bar moves according to the needle travel requirements set by the process. S5. Zero position selection: According to the product width restriction in design, the zero position of lace width is equipped according to the actual situation, and the zero position of lace width is standardized to increase the lace changing speed and reduce the needle mounting amount. The finer the lace, the more cycles, the more lace needles are mounted by the machine, and the richer and more complex the pattern. This allows the fabric style and scope of use to be determined from the beginning of the design, and the more accurately the fabric application is planned in advance, making the product more distinctive and suitable. The present invention adopts 192 needle pattern yarn cycle zero position, 134 inch machine width, and a total of 18 cycles, and can produce two finished products with a width of 1.4 meters at a time.

[0059] S6. Pattern yarn selection: According to the characteristics of the pattern, select the corresponding material, and determine it according to the style in the case of design and process, combining with the knitting conditions of the machine.

[0060] The present invention provides a lightweight, thin, and flexible free-cut product. The product is designed to be lightweight and thin, and the specific design is described using the concept of this example as shown in Table 4 below.

[0061] [Table 4]

[0062] As shown in FIG. 6, this is the specific material application situation of the present invention. According to the arrangement of the material of each pattern bar, the corresponding yarn is hung on the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, and the corresponding yarn is passed through the hole of the yarn guide needle of the bar.

[0063] S7. Weft parameters: This example is determined to produce a lightweight, thin, and flexible free-cut product. The warp density of the finished product is 32 courses / cm, the weft density of the finished product is 11.2 wales / cm, and it is produced by adopting a 24E multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine, and the weft density is 15.5 courses / cm. The let-off amount of the loop-forming ground yarn is 1380mm / rack, the let-off amount of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn (including weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3) is 490mm / rack, and the let-off amount of the weft-inserted spandex yarn (including weft-inserted spandex yarn 3 and weft-inserted spandex yarn 5) is 220mm / rack.

[0064] S8. Evaluation of pre-production samples and weaving of new pattern samples.

[0065] The testing and evaluation status of this example product is shown in Table 5 below. [Table 5]

[0066] New samples are woven, and the defects on the fabric surface are evaluated according to the four-category standards of the textile industry, with a pass rate of over 95%.

[0067] The weaving efficiency reached over 83%.

[0068] S9. Post-finishing: De-oiling-forming-dyeing-reforming is used, the forming temperature is 195 degrees, the forming time is 55 seconds, the reforming temperature is 170 degrees, and the reforming time is 50 seconds. After dyeing is completed, the finished fabric has relatively good shape retention and flatness, and has good dimensional stability, impact resistance, tensile resistance, washing resistance, and fraying resistance.

[0069] Deoiling-pre-form-dyeing-reforming is a common textile post-finishing process, which is a process for improving the feel and appearance of fabrics, improving fabric quality, and endowing fabrics with new functions by physical, chemical, or physical and chemical methods. The purpose is to stabilize the size and shape of the fabric, improve the appearance of the clothing fabric, improve the hand feel of the clothing fabric, and endow the fabric with special performance. The process of deoiling-pre-form-dyeing-reforming is already understood by experts in this technical field, so other contents will not be described in detail here.

[0070] S10. Test the intrinsic quality of the finished product to determine whether the elasticity, fraying prevention, etc. of the product meet the requirements. After finishing is completed, the manufactured product must be subjected to the necessary physical inspection, and the product cannot be sold unless it passes the inspection. In addition to the required items, the inspection items include items that must be strengthened according to customer requests. The present invention has special control items for specific items, namely elasticity test items (warp and weft directions) and washing fraying test. Figure 7 is an example table of the woven fabric elasticity test of the present invention, and according to the test requirements, fabric samples are taken and then tested. As shown in Figure 7, the test contents are divided into weft direction test data and warp direction test data. The average value of the weft direction elasticity test is 115.27%, and the average value of the warp direction elasticity test is 163.62%, which meets the design requirements. Figure 8 is an example table of the test of the woven fabric appearance quality evaluation report (fraying prevention) of the present invention. According to the test requirements, the fabric samples are taken and washed, and then rated according to the regulations. In the case of rating, it is done for each corresponding sub-item. As can be seen from the table in Figure 8, all the sub-indices of each item are passed, and the overall index is also passed, meeting the requirements for anti-fraying. As can be seen from Figures 7 and 8, this product meets the requirements of free-cut products in terms of physical performance, and the data verifies that the product of the present invention has excellent 4-way stretch function and good anti-fraying function at the same time.

[0071] The advantage of this embodiment is that, compared with the prior art, the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cut performance of weft-insertion is mainly used in fashion clothing and high-end interior decoration products, and the product has excellent 4-way stretch function. At the same time, the product has good anti-fraying function, which solves the problems of weft-direction elasticity and reverse fraying of the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with weft-insertion. In addition, the boundaries between fabrics can be blurred to a certain extent, which can expand the variety of products of multi-bar warp knitted fabric.

[0072] The above is merely an embodiment of the present invention, and does not limit the scope of the claims of the present invention. The equivalent structure or equivalent procedure conversion made by utilizing the contents of the specification and drawings of the present invention, or the use in other related technical fields directly or indirectly, is also included in the patent protection scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting ability, knitted by a multi-bar Russell warp knitting machine, the multi-bar warp knitted fabric has a warp density of 24 courses / cm or more and a weft density of 10 wales / cm or more of a finished product, the multi-bar warp knitted fabric comprises a ground mesh layer and a patterned yarn layer, the patterned yarn constituting the patterned yarn layer is knitted inside the ground mesh layer, the ground mesh layer adopts a mutually drawn mesh structure, the ground mesh yarns adopted for the ground mesh layer include a loop-forming ground yarn, a weft-inserted jacquard yarn and a weft-inserted spandex yarn, the loop-forming ground yarn adopts a heat-meltable spandex core yarn, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn adopts a normal spandex core yarn, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts a spandex yarn.

2. The multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free cut performance as described in claim 1, characterized in that the heat-fusible spandex core yarn includes a core yarn portion and an outer yarn portion, and the core yarn portion is made of heat-fusible spandex, or has a configuration in which the outer layer is heat-fusible spandex and the core layer is regular spandex, or is made by twisting together heat-fusible spandex and regular spandex.

3. The multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting capability according to claim 1, characterized in that the number of pattern yarn bars of the multi-bar Russell warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the weaving density is 12 courses / cm or more.

4. A method for producing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cutting capabilities according to claim 1, comprising the following steps: S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select a weft insertion model of multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine as the knitting machine; S2. Selection of ground net material: the loop-forming ground yarn is selected as a heat-meltable spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is selected as a normal spandex core yarn with a yarn density of 70D or less, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn is selected as a spandex yarn with a yarn density of 280D or less; S3. Threading of warp knitting machine: loop-forming ground bar adopts full threading, weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts full threading, pattern bar adopts selective threading according to process, weft-insertion spandex bar adopts one-air-one threading, loop-forming ground bar adopts full gauge arrangement, weft-insertion jacquard bar adopts half gauge arrangement, weft-insertion spandex bar adopts full gauge arrangement; S4. Needle running mode: the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs a chain stitch structure or a variable chain stitch structure, the weft-inserted jacquard bar runs a pull-pull net structure, the weft-inserted spandex bar also runs a pull-pull net structure, and the pattern bar does motion knitting according to the needle running requirements set by the process; S5. Zero position selection: Select the standard lace width zero position according to the actual situation; S6. Selection of pattern yarn: Select the corresponding material according to the characteristics of the pattern. S7. Picking parameters: picking density is 12 courses / cm or more, the warp density of the finished product is 24 courses / cm or more, the weft density is 10 wales / cm or more, the let-off amount of loop-forming ground yarn is 1100-1700 mm / Rack, the let-off amount of weft-inserted jacquard yarn is 400-750 mm / Rack, and the let-off amount of weft-inserted spandex yarn is 200-300 mm / Rack; S8. Post-finishing: De-oiling-forming-dyeing-reforming, the forming temperature is 190-198 degrees, the forming time is 40-55 seconds, the reforming temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the reforming time is 40-50 seconds; A method for producing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free cutting performance, comprising the steps of:

5. The method for manufacturing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cutting ability according to claim 4, characterized in that the weft insertion model of the multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine in step S1 is a knitting machine equipped with one loop-forming ground yarn bar, a set of weft insertion jacquard bars, two weft insertion spandex bars, and 24 or more weft insertion pattern bars.

6. The method for manufacturing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free cutting capability according to claim 4, characterized in that the knitting machine gauge in step S1 is an 18-28E gauge arrangement.

7. The method for producing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting performance according to claim 4, characterized in that in step S4, when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a chain stitch structure, the wrapping code is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the loop-forming ground yarn bar runs in a variable chain stitch structure, the wrapping code is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

8. The method for manufacturing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric with free-cutting ability according to claim 4, characterized in that in step S4, the weft-insertion jacquard bar includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the wrapping code of the jacquard 1 when it runs through a reciprocating network structure is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and the wrapping code of the jacquard 2 when it runs through a reciprocating network structure is 2-2 / 0-0 / / ; the weft-insertion spandex bar includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the wrapping code of the spandex 1 when it runs through a reciprocating network structure is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and the wrapping code of the spandex 2 when it runs through a reciprocating network structure is 1-1 / 0-0 / / .

9. The method for manufacturing a multi-bar warp knitted fabric having free-cutting performance according to claim 4, further comprising a step between steps S7 and S8 for evaluating the product and weaving a test pattern before manufacturing.

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