Ultra-long-lasting makeup foundation

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer; c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils (preferably in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the composition); d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake of 30 ml / 100 g or greater; and e) pigments, The present invention relates to a composition comprising:

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] This invention relates to a keratin substance, particularly a makeup composition for skin, which has improved wearability under harsh conditions (sebum, sweat). This invention is referred to as "ultra-long-lasting" makeup.

[0002] (prior art) Cosmetic makeup compositions, such as foundations, are generally used to give color and aesthetic effects to the skin, especially the face. Cosmetic makeup compositions typically contain oils (for comfort), pigments (for color), and fillers (for mattiness). However, one of the problems with makeup products is the wearability of the makeup over time, particularly the good wearability of the color, mattiness, and / or uniformity. This problem is even more important for skin with increased sebum secretion (oily skin and / or skin exposed to strenuous physical activity), and skin exposed to harsh conditions of temperature and / or humidity.

[0003] The use of polymers to provide wearability throughout the day is known from prior art. However, commercially available foundations positioned as long-lasting are often uncomfortable or questionable in terms of wearability under harsh conditions (heat and humidity). Therefore, there remains a need to provide skin cosmetic makeup compositions with improved matte finish and / or color wearability, particularly resistant to harsh conditions such as high temperature and / or high humidity, as well as sweating associated with strenuous physical activity (e.g., sports).

[0004] The applicant has discovered that the above needs can be met by combining two types of stable polymers—one being an aqueous phase for wearability and comfort, and the other an oil phase for resistance to sweat and sebum—with a large amount of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbons, and a selection of absorbent fillers for their oil-absorbing capacity. [Overview of the Initiative]

[0005] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to propose a skin cosmetic makeup composition, more specifically, a foundation in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having improved wearability and homogeneity, intended for harsh conditions (high temperature and humidity climate or strenuous physical exercise).

[0006] "Wearability" refers to makeup that remains present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good wearability means that the foundation does not need to be touched up throughout the day.

[0007] "Uniformity" or "homogeneity" refers to the ability of foundation to maintain uniformity throughout the day; in other words, at the end of the day, it does not blend together and become patchy, create areas of varying thickness, and is not absorbed in places.

[0008] For this effect, according to a first aspect of the present invention, the skin cosmetic makeup composition contains at least: a) Aqueous polyurethane dispersion, b) Hydrophobic film-forming polymers, c) One or more volatile hydrocarbon oils (preferably in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition), d) One or more absorbent fillers having an oil absorption capacity of 30 ml / 100 g or more (more than 30 ml / 100 g or equivalent), and e) Pigments, This is proposed as a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion containing [the specified ingredient].

[0009] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains or does not contain non-volatile oil in an amount of 5% by weight or less (less than 5% by weight or equivalent), particularly 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The present invention also relates to a method of applying makeup to the skin, the method comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined in the present invention.

[0011] According to certain embodiments, according to the method of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is applied to oily skin and / or skin exposed to a hot and / or humid atmospheric situation and / or a sweating situation associated with intense physical exercise.

[0012] In the context of the present invention, "oily skin" shall mean skin having a shiny skin color and / or a perceived discomfort, surface irregularities, particularly enlarged follicular openings or pores, a defective skin texture, and / or poor makeup stability.

[0013] "Intense physical exercise" shall mean a physical exercise that promotes sweating and sebum secretion, for example, sports training.

[0014] Other features, objectives, and advantages of the present invention will appear from the following description, which is given purely by way of example and is not limiting.

[0015] (Detailed description of the present invention) A first objective of the present invention is a skin cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) an aqueous polyurethane dispersion, b) a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, c) one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils (preferably in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), d) one or more absorbent fillers having an oil uptake of 30 ml / 100 g or more, and e) a pigment, and the composition containing the above.

[0016] In the context of the present invention, “physiologically acceptable medium” means that the medium is compatible with human keratinous material, does not produce discomfort when applied to said keratinous material, and has a pleasant appearance (touch, color, and / or smell).

[0017] In the context of this invention, "keratin" means the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0018] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention generally accounts for 1 to 70% by weight, and particularly 30 to 60% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly a water-soluble solvent.

[0020] In the context of this invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility with water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure exceeds 50% by weight). These include, in particular: - Monoalcohols less than C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; - C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; - C2-C 32 Polyols, such as glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof are included.

[0021] Furthermore, it may contain hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a lower C1-C5 monoalcohol, C2-C8 glycol, C2-C 32The composition further contains, preferably, at least one water-soluble solvent selected from polyols and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, particularly 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains at least ethanol, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight of the total amount of the composition, thereby providing a refreshing effect.

[0024] The composition may, advantageously, further contain at least polyols and / or glycols in a total amount ranging from 3 to 12% by weight, particularly 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for moisturizing effects that promote the acquisition of a glossy skin tone ("glow" effect) without an oily effect.

[0025] Aqueous dispersion of polyurethane The aqueous dispersion of polyurethane according to the present invention is, in particular, as described in patent application EP1970391 filed in the name of Bayer MaterialScience LLC. For more details, the dispersed polyurethane is A) Formula: [ka] [In the formula, R1 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group obtained from a dihydroxyl compound, particularly a polyester polyol, and especially a polyester diol.] R2 represents a hydrocarbon group derived from aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanates. R3 represents a hydrocarbon group derived from a low molecular weight diol, which may be substituted with an ionic group in some cases. n has values ​​from 0 to 5, and m is > 1] Prepolymers indicated by; B) Formula: [ka] [In the formula, R4 represents an alkylene group or alkylene oxide group that is not substituted by an ionic or potentially ionic group.] At least one chain extender represented by; and C) Formula: [ka] [In the formula, R5 represents an alkylene group substituted with an ionic or potentially ionic group.] At least one chain extender represented by, It contains the reaction products.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment, The -R1 group is obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diol, the dicarboxylic acid being preferably selected from adipic acid, and the diol being preferably selected from hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; The -R2 group is derived from aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanates, particularly diisocyanates selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof; -The R3 group is derived from neopentyl glycol; -The chain extender shown in formula Chem.2 is selected from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and - The chain extender represented by formula Chem.3 is selected from among diaminosulfonates, preferably the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.

[0027] Prepolymer A) R 1 base A suitable compound for providing the R1 group, which is a polyhydroxyl, preferably a dihydroxyl, is preferably a divalent compound having two hydroxyl groups and an average molecular weight of about 700 to about 16,000, preferably about 750 to about 5,000.

[0028] These compounds are preferably selected from polyester polyols, preferably polyester diols, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] One or more polyester diols are generally dicarboxylic acids or aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polycarboxylic acids or their anhydrides (e.g., succinic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, adipic acid, itaconic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, 2,2-dimethylmalonic acid, nonanedicarboxylic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, dodecanedionic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-norbornenedicarboxylic acid (2,5-norborane Dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, oxanic acid, o-phthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, hexahydrophthalic acid or trimellitic acid; and anhydrides of o-phthalic acid, trimellitic acid or succinic acid or mixtures thereof), and dihydric alcohols, for example, aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols (e.g., ethanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, It is prepared from a diol selected from 2-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,4-dihydroxycyclohexane, 1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane, cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,10-decanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, neopentyl glycol, or mixtures thereof.

[0030] The dicarboxylic acid is preferably adipic acid.

[0031] Polyester diols can also be selected from lactone homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably obtained by addition reactions of lactones or mixtures of lactones, such as butyrolactone, c-caprolactone and / or methyl-c-caprolactone, with a polyfunctional initiation molecule, preferably a suitable bifunctional one, such as the dihydric alcohol cited above. The corresponding polymer of c-caprolactone is preferred.

[0032] The R1 of the polyester polyol group, preferably the polyester diol, can be advantageously obtained by polycondensation of a dicarboxylic acid, such as adipic acid, with a polyol, particularly a diol, such as hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] R 2 base Suitable polyisocyanates for providing the R2 hydrocarbon group include organic diisocyanates having a molecular weight of about 112 to 1000, preferably about 140 to 400.

[0034] Preferred diisocyanates are those represented by the general formula shown above: R2(NCO)2 [wherein R2 represents a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, a divalent cycloaliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 5 to 15 carbon atoms, a divalent aromatic aliphatic hydrocarbon group containing 7 to 15 carbon atoms, or a divalent aromatic hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 15 carbon atoms]. Suitable examples of organic diisocyanates include tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, cyclohexane-1,3-diisocyanate and cyclohexane-1,4-diisocyanate, 1-isocyanate-3-isocyanate-methyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane (isophorone diisocyanate or IPDI), bis-(4-isocyanate-cyclohexyl)methane, 1,3-bis(isocyanate-methyl)cyclohexane and 1,4-bis(isocyanate-methyl)cyclohexane, and bis-(4-isocyanate-3-methyl-cyclohexyl)methane. Of course, mixtures of diisocyanates can also be used. Preferred diisocyanates are aliphatic and cycloaliphatic diisocyanates. Particularly preferred are 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] R 3 base The use of R3, a low molecular weight diol, is optional and can enable rigidification of the polymer chain. The expression "low molecular weight diol" refers to a diol having a molecular weight of about 62 to 700, preferably 62 to 200. These may contain aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic groups. Preferred compounds contain only aliphatic groups. The diols used preferably have up to 20 carbon atoms and can be selected from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol, butylene-1,3-glycol, neopentyl glycol, butylethylpropanediol, cyclohexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, hexane-1,6-diol, bisphenol A (2,2-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)propane), bisphenol A hydrogen (2,2-bis(4-hydroxycyclohexyl)propane), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R3 is obtained from neopentyl glycol.

[0036] In some cases, low molecular weight diols may contain ionic or potentially ionic groups. Suitable low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are disclosed in patent US 3 412 054. Preferred compounds include dimethylolpropionic acid (DMBA), dimethylolpropionic acid (DMBA), and caprolactone polyester diols containing carboxyl. Low molecular weight diols containing ionic or potentially ionic groups are preferably not used.

[0037] Chain extenders B) and C) The prepolymer chain A) is extended using two types of chain extenders B) and C) described below.

[0038] Chain extender (Type 1) B) The first type of chain-extended compound is given by formula: [ka] [In the formula, R4 represents an alkylene group or alkylene oxide group that is not substituted by an ionic or potentially ionic group.] It has.

[0039] Therefore, chain extenders are - Alkylenediamines, such as hydrazine, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, and piperazine - Alkylene oxide diamines, such as dipropylamine-diethylene glycol (DPA-DEG), 2-methyl-1,5-pentanediamine, hexanediamine, isophoronediamine and 4,4-methylenedi(cyclohexylamine), and the DPA-etheramine series (including dipropylamine propylene glycol, dipropylamine dipropylene glycol, dipropylamine tripylene glycol, dipropylamine polypropylene glycol, dipropylamine ethylene glycol, dipropylamine polyethylene glycol, dipropylamine-1,3-propanediol, dipropylamine-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, dipropylamine-1,4-butanediol, dipropylamine-1,3-butanediol, dipropylamine-1,6-hexanediol and dipropylamine cyclohexane-1,4-dimethanol, and mixtures thereof). It will be selected from among the following.

[0040] Preferably, the first type of chain extender is selected from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] Chain extender (second type) C) The second type of chain extender is, formula: [ka] [In the formula, R5 represents an alkylene group substituted with an ionic or potentially ionic group.] These compounds include compounds having an ionic or potentially ionic group and two groups that react with an isocyanate group.

[0042] Ionic or potentially ionic groups may be selected from the group consisting of tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, groups convertible to these groups, carboxyl groups, carboxylate groups, sulfonic acid groups, and sulfonate groups. Specific compounds include diaminosulfonates, such as the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (AAS) or the sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminopropionic acid.

[0043] Preferably, R5 represents an alkylene group substituted with a sulfonic acid group or a sulfonate group, more preferably with a sodium salt of N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (AAS).

[0044] chain stop The polyurethane according to the present invention may also include a compound located at the end of the chain and terminating the chain in any case. These chain terminations are of formula: [ka] [In the formula, R6 represents a hydrogen atom or optionally an alkylene group having a hydroxyl terminus, and R7 optionally represents an alkylene group having a hydroxyl terminus.] It can be derived from compounds having the following characteristics. Suitable compounds include monoamines, especially secondary monoamines or monoalcohols. Examples include methylamine, ethylamine, propylamine, butylamine, octylamine, laurylamine, stearylamine, isononyloxypropylamine, dimethylamine, diethylamine, dipropylamine, dibutylamine, N-methylaminopropylamine, diethyl(methyl)aminopropylamine, morpholine, piperidine, diethanolamine and suitable substituted derivatives thereof, amide-amines of primary diamines and monocarboxylic acids, primary diamines, primary / tertiary amines, such as monocetimes of N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine. Chain-ending alcohols are C1-C 10 Alcohols, such as methanol, butanol, hexanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, isodecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, can be selected. Amino alcohols, such as aminomethylpropanol (AMP), are also suitable.

[0045] In embodiments of the present invention, diethylene glycol is used to obtain polyurethane as a low molecular weight diol or as part of a nonionic chain extender via the use of dipropylamine-diethylene glycol. When diethylene glycol is used as a low molecular weight diol, DPA-DEG ​​is preferably not used as a nonionic chain extender. Similarly, when DPA-DEG ​​is used as a nonionic chain extender, diethylene glycol is preferably not used as a low molecular weight diol.

[0046] The aqueous polyurethane dispersion according to the present invention may have a solid content (dry substance) of 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 28 to 50% by weight, and particularly 39 to 42% by weight. Examples of such polyurethane dispersions include polyurethane 34, sold by Bayer under the product names Baycusan® C1000 and C1001, and polyurethane 35, sold by Bayer (Covestro) under the product name Baycusan® C1004.

[0047] A preferred aqueous polyurethane dispersion according to the present invention is sold by Bayer (Covestro) under the name Baycusan® C1004 (INCI "Polyurethane-35" or "Polyurethane-35 and Water"). This dispersion contains 41% polyurethane and 59% by weight of water in the dry material.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed polyurethane is present in the composition as a dry substance (polyurethane) in the range of 0.2 to 20% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0049] Oil phase

[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one continuous oil phase.

[0051] The term "oil phase" refers to oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0052] In the context of this invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0053] The oil phase according to the present invention may include hydrocarbon oils, silicone hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils or non-fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] These oils are volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic oils.

[0055] In the context of the present invention, “volatile oil” means an oil having volatility as defined in the protocols and exemplary examples described below.

[0056] In the context of this invention, "non-volatile oil" means an oil that does not meet the volatility criteria defined above.

[0057] In the context of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that mainly contains hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0058] In the context of the present invention, "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, particularly a Si-O group.

[0059] In the context of the present invention, "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0060] Volatile oils In the context of the present invention, volatile oil means oil that loses more than 20% by weight in 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight in 30 minutes, and more than 70% by weight in 60 minutes, according to the protocol described below.

[0061] Protocol for monitoring oil volatility: Using a micropipette and precision balance, weigh 20 mg of the oil to be tested onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate. Spread the material evenly across the plate with your fingers. Deposit the plate in a constant temperature ventilation chamber at 25°C and 50% humidity. The test is repeated three times to calculate the standard deviation of the material and to determine the reproducibility of the method.

[0062] Mass loss during drying is measured at 15, 30, and 60 minutes. The mass loss is shown according to the following calculation:

number

[0063] The volatility of oils is measured in time (minutes).

[0064] Therefore, those skilled in the art will be able to define an oil suitable for the present invention based on this test for monitoring its mass loss as a function of time.

[0065] The composition of the present invention contains one or more volatile oils in a total amount of at least 10% by weight, particularly 10 to 40% by weight, and preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The presence of a large amount of volatile phase, particularly volatile oils, allows for a light composition that can be easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils participate in forming a film on the skin during application, and as they evaporate, they leave a film attached to the skin, giving the sensation of bare skin without any effect or masking effect of the material substance on the skin.

[0067] The volatile oil may be selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Volatile silicone oils include, in particular, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof. This includes, in particular, silicone oils with a viscosity of 0.5 to 6 cSt, such as dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane), alkyltrisiloxane and cyclomethicone. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (or methyltrimethicone), decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Volatile hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, C9-C 13 linear alkanes, C8-C 16 branched alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] According to certain embodiments, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from volatile linear alkanes, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] C 9 -C 13 Volatile linear alkanes By way of example, linear alkanes suitable for the present invention include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), and mixtures thereof. According to certain embodiments, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, and mixtures thereof. According to preferred embodiments, these include n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13A mixture of ) for example, the one sold by BASF under the name CETIOL, and n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 This includes mixtures of ) such as those sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Such alkanes can be obtained directly or through multiple processes from plant-based materials such as oils, butters, or waxes. For example, alkanes suitable for the present invention include alkanes (a mixture of distinct alkanes separated by at least one carbon) described in COGNIS patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 or WO2008 / 155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which themselves can be obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0073] While it is possible to use volatile linear alkanes individually, it is preferable to use a mixture of at least two separate volatile linear alkanes that differ from each other in at least one carbon number n, and particularly in one or two carbon numbers.

[0074] For example, mixtures suitable for the present invention include, in particular, the following mixtures: - 50-90% by weight, preferably 55-80% by weight, more preferably 60-75% by weight of volatile linear C, relative to the total weight of alkanes in the mixture. n Alkanes (where n is in the range of 9 to 13); - 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C, relative to the total weight of alkanes in the mixture. n+x Alkanes (where x is 1 or greater, preferably x=1 or x=2, and n+x is between 10 and 13).

[0075] More specifically, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the present invention is n-undecane / n-tridecane (C 11 / C 13 ) It can be used in the form of a mixture.

[0076] In particular, volatile linear alkane mixtures - 55-80% by weight, preferably 60-75% by weight, of volatile linear carbon relative to the alkane in the mixture. 11 Alkane (n-undecane); - 20-45% by weight, preferably 24-40% by weight, of volatile linear carbon relative to the alkane in the mixture. 13 Alkane (n-tridecane), Use one that contains this.

[0077] According to yet another embodiment, n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C9) 12 A mixture of ) is used.

[0078] Preferred linear alkanes include those with the following trade names: - VEGELIGHT SILK from BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: C9-12 Alkane); - VEGELIGHT 1214 LC D from BIOSYNTHIS (INCI name: C9- 12 Alkane (and coco-caprylate / caprate (C9- 12 ALKANE (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE)) - CETIOL ULTIMATE MB from BASF (INCI name: Undecane, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil).

[0079] Branched alkanes These include, in particular, isododecane, isohexadecane, and isododecane. Preferably, isododecane is used.

[0080] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include at least isododecane.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, volatile linear alkanes containing 9 to 13 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] According to another specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one or more volatile linear alkanes.

[0083] Volatile oils are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 10 to 40% by weight, particularly 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of volatile oils includes volatile oils used as dispersants and volatile oils contained in other components of the composition, such as hydrophobic film-forming polymers.

[0084] Non-volatile oils According to embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may further contain a non-volatile oil to improve comfort during application to keratinous materials.

[0085] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, plant-derived hydrocarbon oils, and C 10 -C 40 Synthetic ether, C 10 -C 40 Synthetic ester, C 12 -C 26 Fatty alcohols, C 12 -C 22 It may contain super fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Non-volatile silicone oils include, in particular, phenyl silicone oils, non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] However, according to certain preferred embodiments, the total amount of non-volatile oil in the composition of the present invention is 5% by weight or less of the total weight of the composition.

[0088] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains or does not contain non-volatile oil in an amount of 2% by weight or 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The total content of non-volatile oils includes non-volatile oils used as dispersants, as well as non-volatile oils contained in other components of the composition.

[0090] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention do not contain non-volatile oils.

[0091] Hydrophobic film-forming polymers The composition of the present invention also includes a hydrophobic film-forming polymer.

[0092] A film-forming polymer refers to a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In this text, the term "polymer" may refer to a homopolymer or copolymer. The term "copolymer" refers to a polymer containing at least two different monomers or two different blocks, which may have different structures even within the same chemical series. A hydrophobic or lipid-soluble film-forming polymer refers to a film-forming polymer dissolved in the oil phase of a composition.

[0093] Hydrophobic film-forming polymers can be naturally derived or synthetically obtained, and are advantageously selected from the group consisting of: - Trimethylsiloxysilicate, in particular Belsil TMS 803 (WACKER), KF7312 from Shin Etsu - Phenylalkylsiloxysilicate (where the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms), for example, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, - Silicone acrylate polymers, for example, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (e.g., KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyltrimethicone (e.g., KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (e.g., KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (e.g., FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers in isododecane (e.g., FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning®),

[0094] - Polyalkylsilsesquioxane containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (e.g., Silform® flexible resin from Momentive), - Trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (where the alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms), preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (e.g., TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu), - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer and VP / styrene copolymer. - Copolymers of vinyl esters, preferably vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate copolymer, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate copolymer, vinyl acetate / vinyl octadecene copolymer, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether copolymer, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate copolymer, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate copolymer, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1 copolymer, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1 copolymer, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether copolymer, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether copolymer, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate copolymer, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate copolymer, allyldimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate copolymer, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate copolymer, and allyldimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate copolymer.

[0095] - Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins, preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutene, polyisobutene, and polydecene. - Alkylcellulose, preferably alkylcellulose having an alkyl group containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose. - Polyvinyl alcohol, and - These mixtures.

[0096] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer is preferably a silicone film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of the following: - Trimethylsiloxysilicate, - Phenylalkylsiloxysilicate (where the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms), for example, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, - Silicone acrylate polymers, for example, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (e.g., KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyltrimethicone (e.g., KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (e.g., KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (e.g., FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers in isododecane (e.g., FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning®), - Polyalkylsilsesquioxane containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (e.g., Silform® flexible resin from Momentive), - Trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (where the alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms), preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (e.g., TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu), and mixtures thereof.

[0097] More preferably, the lipid-soluble film-forming polymer b) is selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate, silicone acrylate polymer, and mixtures thereof. According to certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0098] The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 12% by weight, as a dry substance, relative to the total weight of the composition. The percentage of the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as the weight percentage of the dry extract (dry substance or active substance, am) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Absorbent filler The term "filler" should be understood as mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, colorless or white, and insoluble in the medium of a composition. These fillers are particularly useful for correcting the rheology or texture of a composition and / or providing a matte effect. Fillers are mineral or organic and can be plate-like, spherical, or rectangular in shape.

[0100] The filler according to the present invention is a filler having the ability to absorb and / or adsorb oil or liquid fatty substances.

[0101] Therefore, the absorbent filler according to the present invention can be characterized by its oil absorption, or in other words, oil uptake, which is expressed in milliliters (ml / g) of oil per gram of filler.

[0102] This oil uptake corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and / or adsorbed by the filler and can be characterized by the measurement of oil uptake by standard methods. These include, in particular, the powder method described in standard NF T 30-022, which measures oil uptake as the volume of adsorbed oil relative to the mass of the filler, corresponding to the amount of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the filler.

[0103] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the following method is used for oil intake: - Pour artificial sebum (25% jojoba oil, 15% squalane, and 60% migliol 829 (caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride)) into 1 g of powder (filler to be tested); - Gently paste the powder by lightly crushing it with a spatula. The goal is to achieve a mastic (chewable) paste that is not finely ground and easily detachable; - The results are recorded in ml of artificial sebum per gram of powder. The read value should be multiplied by 100 to convert it to ml / 100g. - Measurements are performed twice for each sample. If the difference between these two measurements exceeds 0.05 ml, a third measurement is performed.

[0104] According to certain embodiments, the filler further has a low capacity to absorb and / or adsorb water.

[0105] To measure moisture absorption, replace the artificial sebum with desalinated water and use the same method as described above.

[0106] In practice, the following can be used: - A 10-ml burette (0.05ml precision) filled with demineralized water for water intake. - A 10-ml burette (0.05ml accuracy) filled with the above-mentioned artificial sebum for oil absorption, - Large-diameter watch glass (1g of powder (filler to be tested) is weighed on this glass.) - Scales, and - A broad, flat spatula with a rounded tip.

[0107] The larger the volume poured, the greater the ability of the filler to absorb water or sebum.

[0108] If a filler does not absorb any water, it is hydrophobic.

[0109] Water that does not absorb sebum at all is hydrophobic (relative to artificial sebum).

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 30 ml / 100 g is used.

[0111] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, a filler having an oil absorption capacity of 55 ml / 100 g to 250 ml / 100 g is used.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a filler having an oil absorption capacity of 30 ml / 100g to 250 ml / 100g, and especially 55 ml / 100g to 250 ml / 100g, is used.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the filler also has a water absorption capacity of less than 300 ml / 100 g, particularly 0 ml / 100 g to 250 ml / 100 g, and particularly 0 ml / 100 g to 170 ml / 100 g.

[0114] In particular, among these fillers that have a water absorption capacity of less than 300 ml / 100 g, the following can be used: - Fillers having a water absorption capacity of 55 ml / 100 g to 100 ml / 100 g and zero water absorption, such as fillers sold under the name AMIHOPE LL MB; - A filler having an oil absorption capacity of 120 ml / 100 g to 145 ml / 100 g and a water absorption capacity of 120 ml / 100 g to 150 ml / 100 g, such as a filler sold under the name AMILON.

[0115] Table 1 below lists non-limiting examples of fillers that can be used in accordance with the present invention: [Table 1]

[0116] Therefore, the filler according to the present invention is particularly, - Polyamide powder (e.g., nylon) - Acrylic polymer powder, especially poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) - Boron nitride powder - Silica and amino acid powder - Lauroyl lysine - Silica powder, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, - Cellulose powder, cellulose beads - Starch powder - Cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomer powders, coated or uncoated with silicone resin. - Silicone resin powder (INCI name: polymethylsilsesquioxane) - Silicone resin / TiO2 powder, - Polyurethane and silica powder - Calcium carbonate - Clay And a mixture of these is selected.

[0117] According to a particular embodiment, the filler according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of polyamide powder (e.g., nylon), acrylic polymer powder, particularly poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) powder, boron nitride powder, silicon and amino acid powders, lauroyl lysine, silica powder, cellulose powder, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, silicone resin powder, starch powder, and mixtures thereof, preferably silica and amino acid powder, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The total amount of the absorbent filler of the present invention is, in particular, 1 to 10% by weight, especially 2 to 8% by weight, and preferably 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] pigment The composition of the present invention comprises at least one pigment.

[0120] "Pigments" are defined as white or colored particles of mineral or organic matter that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and intended to color and / or opaque the resulting deposits. These may include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (in other words, pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment is selected from among mineral pigments and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), pearlescent or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0122] "Mineral pigments" may include, for example, optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase); black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydrated oxide, and ferric blue.

[0123] "Organic pigments" can include, for example, D&C red no.19, D&C red no.9, D&C Red no.22, D&C Red no.21, D&C Red no.28, D&C Yellow no.6, D&C orange no.4, D&C orange no.5, D&C Red no.27, D&C red no.13, D&C Red no.7, D&C Red no.6, D&C Yellow no.5, D&C Red no.36, D&C Red no.33, D&C orange no.10, D&C yellow no.6, D&C Red no.30, D&C red no.3, D&C Blue 1, carbon black, and cochineal carmine-based lacquer.

[0124] The pigment is advantageously surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent to improve its dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is selected from the group consisting particularly of silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes, synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

[0125] In particular, one or more pigments are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] According to a particular embodiment, a skin cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprises at least: a) An aqueous dispersion of polyurethane in an amount of dry matter (polyurethane) in the range of 0.2 to 20% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 15%, preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably having the INCI name "Polyurethane 35" or "Polyurethane 35 and water". b) A hydrophobic film-forming polymer in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, more preferably 5 to 12% by weight, as a dry matter, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate, silicone acrylate polymer, and mixtures thereof. c) One or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. d) One or more absorbent fillers having an oil absorption capacity of more than 30 ml / 100 g or equivalent, in a total amount of 1 to 10% by weight, particularly 2 to 8% by weight, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, selected from the group consisting of polyamide powder (e.g., nylon), acrylic polymer powder, particularly poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), boron nitride powder, silica and amino acid powder, lauroyl lysine, silica powder, cellulose powder, crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, silicone resin powder, starch powder, preferably silica and amino acid powder, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof. e) Pigments , including.

[0127] Galen The composition is preferably intended for application to the skin, particularly the skin of the face and / or neck, and is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0128] This composition may take the form of, for example, a facial fluid, a foundation, a foundation base, or a "finisher." Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, particularly a foundation.

[0129] Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention may contain any of the additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, gelling agents, preservatives, film-forming polymers, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, such as emollients, humectants, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lightening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Makeup methods The present invention also relates to a method for applying makeup to a keratinous substance, particularly to skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying at least one cosmetic composition, as previously defined in the present invention, to the keratinous substance.

[0131] In particular, this method aims to provide improved wearability of makeup over time, especially when the composition of the present invention is applied to oily skin and / or exposed to high temperature and / or humid air conditions and / or sweating conditions associated with strenuous physical exercise (e.g., sports training).

[0132] The present invention is illustrated in the following non-limiting embodiments. Unless otherwise specified, percentages are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. [Examples]

[0133] The inventors have been working to optimize the wearability characteristics of the above-mentioned foundation emulsion, particularly its matte finish, for better resistance to harsh conditions (e.g., heat / humidity or sports training). [Table 2]

[0134] Example 1: Selection of a volatile oil suitable for the present invention Test protocol: Using a micropipette and precision scale, weigh 20 mg of the test oil onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate. Spread the material evenly across the plate with your fingers. Then, deposit the plate in a constant temperature ventilation chamber at 25°C and 50% humidity. Calculate the standard deviation of this material and perform the test three times to determine the reproducibility of the method.

[0135] Mass loss during drying is measured at 15, 30, and 60 minutes. Mass loss is calculated as follows:

number

[0136] Four volatile oils were tested and compared to a reference oil: [Table 3]

[0137] The mass loss measurement results, expressed as percentages, are shown in Table 4 below: [Table 4]

[0138] The results show significant differences in volatility among the five oils tested. Isododecane was the most volatile of all the oils, completely evaporating after only 15 minutes of drying.

[0139] For the linear alkanes undecane (65%) / tridecane (35%) and volatile volatile pentacyclomethicone, the evaporation curves are quite similar.

[0140] Cyclopentasiloxane (70%) / cyclohexasiloxane (30%) (reference oil 1) is less volatile than oils 2, 3, and 4. Even after 60 minutes, a small amount of oil remains on the PMMA plate. Isohexadecane is less volatile than all other oils and is considered to be the lower limit of volatility according to the present invention.

[0141] In the context of the present invention, volatile oil means oil from which more than 20% by weight is lost after 15 minutes, more than 40% by weight after 30 minutes, and more than 70% by weight after 60 minutes, according to the protocol described above.

[0142] The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise volatile hydrocarbon oils selected from volatile linear C9-C15 alkanes, isododecanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] The use of undecane / tridecane is particularly advantageous in the compositions of the present invention described in Table 2. Compared to similar compositions containing volatile silicone oils, it improves the adhesion and matte finish of the foundation film applied to the skin.

[0144] Example 2: Selection of a filler suitable for the present invention This study aims to test the broad sebum uptake of fillers that have a strong preferential affinity for sebum, which is considered one of the factors that most significantly affects the stability of foundation films.

[0145] Test protocol: - Pour artificial sebum (25% jojoba oil, 15% squalane, and 60% migliol 829 (caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride)) into 1 g of powder (filler to be tested); - Gently paste the powder by lightly crushing it with a spatula. The purpose is to achieve a mastic paste that is easily peelable without further crushing. - The results should be recorded in ml of artificial sebum per gram of powder. The measured value should be multiplied by 100 to convert it to ml / 100g; - Measurements are performed twice for each sample. If the difference between these two measurements exceeds 0.05 ml, a third measurement is performed.

[0146] The same method is used for water intake, replacing artificial sebum with desalinated water.

[0147] In practice, the following can be used: - A 10-ml burette (0.05ml accuracy) filled with desalinated water for water intake. - A 10-ml burette (0.05ml accuracy) filled with the above-mentioned artificial sebum for oil absorption, - A large-diameter watch glass for weighing 1g of powder (test filler). - Scales, and - A wide, flat spatula with a rounded tip.

[0148] The larger the volume poured, the greater the filler's ability to absorb water or sebum.

[0149] If a filler does not absorb any water, it is hydrophobic.

[0150] If water does not absorb sebum at all, it is considered oleophobic (in the case of artificial sebum).

[0151] The tested fillers and the values ​​obtained are shown in Table 5 below: [Table 5]

[0152] Fillers with an absorption capacity of less than 30 ml / 100 g will not retain sebum because they do not absorb it sufficiently.

[0153] Therefore, the absorbent filler according to the present invention should have an absorption capacity of at least 30 ml / 100 g.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 30 ml / 100 g is used.

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the filler further has a water absorption capacity of 300 ml / 100 g.

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, a filler having an oil absorption capacity of 55 ml / 100g to 250 ml / 100g and a water absorption capacity of 0 ml / 100g to 170 ml / 100g is used.

[0157] Example 2: Formulation and Wearability Performance The compositions exemplified below were prepared according to conventional methods for formulation in the cosmetics field. Unless otherwise specified, percentages are expressed in weight percentages of the raw materials.

[0158] 2-1 Long-lasting water-in-oil foundation [Table 6]

[0159] 2-2 Long-lasting water-in-oil foundation [Table 7]

[0160] 2-3 Long-lasting water-in-oil foundation [Table 8]

[0161] Matte finish, comfortable wearability and performance Composition 2-2 of the present invention was evaluated according to various criteria: - Presence of foundation film (Visia photographs under UV light, and calculation of parameter L* using image analysis), - Homogeneity of the foundation film (Visia images under cross-polarization, and calculation of parameter σ76 using image analysis), - Matte finish of the foundation film (gloss measurement at 60° using a gloss meter), - Foundation migration characteristics (texturometry and analysis of image color difference compared to a white reference (cotton white)), - Application range of foundation (color measurement using a spectrophotometer).

[0162] Calibrate the amount of foundation to be applied.

[0163] The foundation according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain good wearability, particularly matte wearability, comfort after application, and non-migration.

[0164] Wearability performance in harsh conditions Composition 2-2 was evaluated under harsh conditions simulating high temperature and high humidity atmospheric conditions as well as sweating conditions associated with sports practice. Two different tests were conducted based on a panel of 22 women.

[0165] In the first trial, the foundation was subjected to multiple 10-minute heat and humidity cycles using a halogen lamp, and its wearability was monitored over an 8-hour period. For this purpose, the panelists' bare faces were evaluated in multiple ways, including clinical evaluation by a dermatologist, photography, and self-assessment by the panelists. After the evaluation of the bare skin, the foundation was applied to the panelists' entire faces. The panelists' faces were then re-evaluated (intermediately) by photography, dermatologist, and self-assessment. The panelists were then subjected to four heat and humidity cycles applied at different time points: 1 hour, 3 hours, 5 hours, and 7 hours after foundation application. Changes in the foundation were monitored at time points t4h, t6h, and t8h.

[0166] The second test consists of evaluating the foundation's resistance under sports conditions. For this purpose, after applying the foundation, the women perform a self-assessment and answer a questionnaire dealing with various parameters of the applied foundation film. Then, they cycle for 30-45 minutes and reassess the foundation by performing a new self-assessment and answering the questionnaire again.

[0167] Results related to high temperature and high humidity cycles Instrumental measurements indicate that the product's surface and color intensity maintain excellent wearability for up to 8 hours. Clinical evaluations by dermatologists show improvements in skin tone uniformity and texture, and an increase in skin radiance and brightness for up to 8 hours. Finally, the skin remains matte for up to 8 hours. Panelists, like the dermatologists, assess that skin tone uniformity and brightness improve for up to 8 hours, and similarly, the perceived matteness of the skin improves for up to 8 hours.

[0168] Results related to athletic performance Immediately after applying foundation, up to 91% of panelists rated their skin as having a matte finish.

[0169] After the sports activity (45 minutes of cycling), the panelists gave the following assessment: "The product is sustainable" (95% of women); "My skin color hasn't changed at all after sports activities" (77% of women); "Even after sports activities, skin discoloration imperfections and irregularities remain corrected" (82% of women); "The color is good for wearing, and the color hasn't changed even after sports activities" (86% of women). "Even after sports activities, my skin tone remains uniform" (77% of women).

[0170] Therefore, these results obtained under harsh conditions demonstrate that compositions according to the present invention, in the form of lipophilic film-forming polymers, aqueous dispersions of polyurethanes, and absorbent fillers having an oil absorption capacity of 30 ml / 100g or more, particularly 55 ml / 100g or more, provide good wearability over time, including under harsh conditions (high temperature and / or humid atmospheric conditions or intense sports training).

Claims

1. A skin cosmetic makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, comprising at least: a) Aqueous polyurethane dispersion, b) Hydrophobic film-forming polymers, c) One or more volatile hydrocarbon oils, d) One or more absorbent fillers having an oil absorption capacity of 120 ml / 100 g to 250 ml / 100 g, selected from the group consisting of poly(methyl methacrylate) powder, silica and amino acid powder, cellulose powder and mixtures thereof, and e) Pigments, Includes, The composition is characterized in that the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a hydrophobic film-forming silicone polymer selected from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylalkylsiloxysilicate (where the alkyl group contains 1 to 6 carbon atoms), silicone acrylate polymer, polyalkylsilsesquioxane containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a non-volatile oil in an amount of 5% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the absorbent filler is a powder of silica and an amino acid.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of absorbent filler is 1 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

5. The dispersed polyurethane A) Formula: 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, R 1 This indicates the divalent group of a dihydroxyl compound, R 2 This indicates a hydrocarbon group derived from aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanates. R 3 This indicates a hydrocarbon group derived from a low molecular weight diol. n has values ​​from 0 to 5, and m is > 1. Prepolymers indicated by; B) Formula: 【Chemistry 2】 [In the formula, R 4 This indicates an alkylene group or alkylene oxide group that is not substituted by an ionic or potentially ionic group. At least one chain extender represented by; and C) Formula: 【Transformation 3】 [In the formula, R 5 This indicates an alkylene group that is substituted with an ionic or potentially ionic group. At least one chain extender, as shown, A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by containing the reaction product of the following:

6. - R 1 The group is obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid and at least one diol; - R 2 The group is derived from aliphatic or cycloaliphatic polyisocyanates; - R 3 The group is derived from neopentyl glycol; - The chain extender shown in formula: Chem. 2 is selected from ethylenediamine, diethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and - The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the chain extender represented by formula: Chem.3 is selected from among diaminosulfonates.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the dispersed polyurethane is present in an amount of 0.2 to 20% by weight as a dry substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of trimethylsiloxysilicate, silicone acrylate polymer, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 8, characterized in that a hydrophobic film-forming polymer is present in an amount in the range of 1 to 20% by weight as a dry substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, volatile linear alkanes containing 9 to 13 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

11. A method for applying makeup to the skin, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to the skin.

12. The method according to claim 11, characterized in that the composition is applied to oily skin and / or skin exposed to high temperature and / or humid atmospheric conditions and / or sweating conditions associated with strenuous physical exercise.

Images