Liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic

Abstract

To provide liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics that deliver superior moisturizing and firming effects, use feeling with reduced stickiness, and exceptional long-term stability.SOLUTION: Liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics comprise following components (A)-(D): component (A): a sphingoglycolipid; component (B): a C12-22 higher alcohol in an amount of 0.1-10 mass%, component (C): at least one oil solution selected from esters of dimer acids and / or dimer diols, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters in an amount of 0.1-15 mass%, and component (D): an oil agent containing hydroxystearic acid at least in part, excluding the component (C).SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water type liquid emulsion cosmetic, and more specifically, to an oil-in-water type liquid emulsion cosmetic that is excellent in firmness and moisturizing power, has a non-greasy feeling during use, maintains fluidity, and has excellent stability over time.

Background Art

[0002] As people age, their skin partially loses elasticity, and so-called skin sagging and the like appear. For people with such symptoms, many cosmetics have been sold that replenish moisture in the skin and lift the sagging skin. In oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetics, a method of blending a large amount of solid oil or paste oil (Patent Document 1) and the like has been used.

[0003] However, the method of blending a large amount of solid oil or paste oil has problems in that greasiness occurs due to the characteristics of the oil agent, the viscosity increases, and a satisfactory feeling during use cannot be obtained sufficiently. In addition, aggregation, coalescence, crystal precipitation, etc. of emulsion droplets may occur, and it has been particularly difficult to ensure the stability over time in oil-in-water type liquid emulsion cosmetics.

[0004] Conventionally, when improving such stability over time, a method has been used in which an aqueous polymer is gelled to increase the viscosity of the outer-phase water to make it difficult for emulsion particles to coalesce. However, in order to maintain a liquid state, a large amount of the aqueous polymer cannot be blended, and there are problems in terms of feeling during use such as greasiness of the skin and a tight feeling of the skin (Patent Document 2).

[0005] In addition, methods such as blending a surfactant to stably mix the aqueous component and the oily component or strengthening the emulsion film to make it difficult to coalesce have been used. However, since it is a substance with strong greasiness, it is desirable to reduce or remove this blending amount in order to obtain a good feeling during use (Patent Document 3).

[0006] On the other hand, it is known that emulsification can be done with sphingoglycolipids, a type of intercellular lipid. However, because their emulsifying power is lower than that of surfactants, when oils, including solid oils and paste oils, are emulsified with sphingoglycolipids, it is difficult to ensure stability over time due to issues such as the coalescence of emulsified droplets and crystallization at low temperatures. Furthermore, they tend to solidify, especially at low temperatures, and in the case of liquid emulsified cosmetics, it is difficult to maintain fluidity, which leads to problems with usability.

[0007] For these reasons, there has been a demand for a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that provides excellent skin firmness and moisturizing power, while also having a non-greasy feel and superior stability over time. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0008] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 6-62382 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2001-226250 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2006-199598 [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0009] This invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned problems, and aims to provide a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that has good moisturizing power and firmness, a non-sticky feel, and excellent long-term stability. [Means for solving the problem]

[0010] In order to achieve the above objectives, the inventors conducted diligent research and found that the above problems could be solved with a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic having a specific combination of components, thus completing the present invention.

[0011] In other words, the present invention provides a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing the following (A) to (D). (A) Sphingoglycolipids (B) 0.1 to 10% by mass of higher alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms (C) 0.1 to 15% by mass of one or more oils selected from dimer acids and / or dimer ol diesters, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters. Oils containing hydroxystearic acid in at least a portion of (D)(C) [Effects of the Invention]

[0012] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that achieves a good balance of moisturizing power, firmness, and a non-greasy feel, while also having excellent stability over time and good fluidity for easy use. [Best Mode for Carrying Out the Invention]

[0013] The present invention will be described in more detail below. Unless otherwise noted, when the amount of a component is expressed in "%" below, it means mass percent.

[0014] In the present invention, component (A) sphingoglycolipid refers to a complex glycolipid in which fatty acids and sugars are bonded to a lipid containing sphingoids (sphingoid bases), which are long-chain alcohols having an amino group, and is represented by the following chemical formula (Formula 1).

[0015] [ka] ...(Formula 1)

[0016] In Formula 1, R1 is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, which may be linear or branched, and may or may not be substituted with hydroxyl groups, etc. The number of carbon atoms in the alkyl group is usually in the range of 1 to 50, and preferably in the range of 10 to 25. R2 is a saccharide. Examples of saccharides include monosaccharides, disaccharides, and polysaccharides. Further, sugar derivatives in which a hydroxyl group or a hydroxymethyl group in the sugar is replaced with another group may also be used. Examples of such sugar derivatives include glucosamine, glucuronic acid, N-acetylglucosamine, etc. Among these, it is preferable to contain at least one of galactose, mannose, glucuronic acid, and glucosamine as a constituent monosaccharide. R3 is an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, or an alkynyl group which may have a cycloalkyl group. The number of carbon atoms of R3 is not particularly limited, but it is preferably within the range of 15 to 25. The alkyl group, alkenyl group, and alkynyl group of R3 may be linear or branched, and may or may not be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a methyl group, etc. In particular, a cycloalkyl group such as a cyclopropyl group may be present in the chain of the alkyl group. The position of the double bond of the alkenyl group and the position of the triple bond of the alkynyl group are not particularly limited. As the sphingoglycolipid, commercially available products can be used. For example, Biosela G and Biosela QD manufactured by Dainippon Kasei Co., Ltd., Biosphingo manufactured by Kikkoman Biochemifa Co., Ltd., etc. can be used.

[0017] The blending amount of component (A) is not particularly limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be obtained. Usually, it is used in the range of 0.05 to 3%, preferably 0.14 to 1%, based on the total amount of the liquid water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic. In this range, the emulsifying power, moisturizing feeling, and usability are very excellent.

[0018] The higher alcohol of component (B) in the present invention is an aliphatic alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. It is not particularly limited as long as it is a higher alcohol used in ordinary cosmetics. Specifically, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecynol, batyl alcohol and the like can be mentioned. Aliphatic alcohols obtained by hydrogenating the fatty acid moiety as needed are also useful, and examples include hydrogenated rapeseed oil alcohol. One or more of these can be used. Among these, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil alcohol are preferred, and a liquid oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic having a crispy feeling and a moisturizing feeling can be easily obtained and has particularly good stability over time.

[0019] The blending amount of component (B) is 0.1 to 10%, preferably 1 to 6%. When the content of component (B) is within this range, a liquid oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic having better emulsifying properties and excellent stability over time can be obtained. If it is less than 0.1%, the crispy feeling and the moisturizing feeling tend to be insufficient, and if it exceeds 10%, stickiness is likely to occur and the fluidity tends to deteriorate, which is not preferable.

[0020] Component (C) in the present invention is selected from diester forms of dimer acid and / or dimer diol, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters. Note that component (C) includes components that are diester forms of dimer acid and / or dimer diol and are also fatty acid sterol esters, and components that are N-acyl amino acid esters and are also fatty acid sterol esters.

[0021] In the present invention, the diesters of dimer acid and / or dimer ol of component (C) refer to esters of dimer acid obtained by dimerizing mono- or di-unsaturated fatty acids and then hydrogenating them as needed, with various alcohols, as well as esters of dimer ol obtained by reducing dimer acid with various fatty acids, and esters of dimer acid and dimer ol. Examples include dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), di(isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleic acid, dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleic acid, dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, and dimer dilinoleyl bis(phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl) dimer dilinoleic acid.

[0022] In the present invention, component (C) fatty acid sterol ester refers to fatty acid phytosterol esters obtained by esterifying phytosterols with fatty acids, or fatty acid cholesterol esters obtained by esterifying cholesterol with fatty acids, and examples include phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl isostearate, phytosteryl lanolin fatty acid, phytosteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid, phytosteryl sunflower seed oil fatty acid, phytosteryl rice bran oil fatty acid, cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl lanolin fatty acid, cholesteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid, cholesteryl sunflower seed oil fatty acid, and cholesteryl rice bran oil fatty acid.

[0023] In the present invention, component (C) N-acyl amino acid ester refers to an ester of an N-acyl amino acid with a higher alcohol, and examples include dioctyldodecyl N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, di(cholesteryl / octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, and di(phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamate.

[0024] Particularly preferred as component (C) are dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl bis(phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), and macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl. When component (C) is incorporated, a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic with good usability, which easily provides firmness and moisturizing effects and suppresses stickiness can be obtained.

[0025] The amount of ingredient (C) is 0.1 to 15% of the total composition, preferably 1 to 10%. If it exceeds 15%, it tends to feel sticky and the user experience is poor when applied to the skin, which is undesirable. If it is less than 0.1%, the moisturizing effect and firming effect may not be sufficiently exhibited, which is also undesirable.

[0026] Component (C) can be one or more selected from diesters of dimer acid and / or dimer ol, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters. However, by using diesters of dimer acid and / or dimer ol, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters in combination, it is possible to achieve both a moisturizing effect and a firming effect.

[0027] Component (D) in the present invention is an oil containing at least a portion of hydroxystearic acid. Examples include polyhydroxystearic acid, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate, and dipentaerythritol hydroxystearate ester. Preferably, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, polyhydroxystearic acid, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, and ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate are used, and one or more of these can be used. Using these makes it possible to suppress viscosity increase, especially at low temperatures, and thus maintain good usability as a liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.

[0028] The amount of component (D) is not particularly limited as long as the effects of the present invention are obtained, but it is usually used in the range of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 3%, relative to the total amount of the liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. Within this range, stability and fluidity are excellent.

[0029] In this invention, "liquid" refers to a substance that has fluidity. Specifically, the standard for fluidity was defined as a substance that flows out within 30 seconds when 30 ml is filled into a No. 7 screw-cap tube (Maruemu Co., Ltd.), left to stand at 5°C for 18 hours, and then the screw-cap tube is opened and tilted at a 135-degree angle.

[0030] In addition to the essential components mentioned above, the composition of the present invention may also contain, as needed, components commonly used in emulsified cosmetics and the like. For example, pearlescent agents, moisturizers, oils other than components (B) and (C), thickeners other than component (D), water-soluble polymers, fragrances, bactericides, preservatives, surfactants, UV absorbers, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, lower alcohols, powders, scrubbing agents, bio-derived components, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, cooling agents, herbal extracts, vitamins, and other additives can be added as appropriate. The proportion of these components can be appropriately selected according to their type and purpose, and they may be used individually or in combination of two or more as appropriate. [Examples]

[0031] The present invention will be further explained below with reference to examples. These examples are not intended to limit the present invention in any way.

[0032] The evaluation method for the examples will be described. <Evaluation of stability over time> The preparations were left to stand at 25°C for 3 months after preparation, and then evaluated visually by skilled technicians according to the following criteria. [Criteria for evaluating stability over time] "○": Uniform and without separation "△": Partially uneven "×": Crystallization or separation is observed.

[0033] <Evaluation of user experience> Ten basic cosmetics sensory evaluators actually used the emulsified cosmetic product one day after preparation and evaluated it based on the following criteria. The average of the evaluation scores of the ten evaluators was calculated, and scores below 3.0 were marked with ×, scores between 3.0 and 4.0 with △, scores between 4.0 and 4.5 with ○, and scores of 4.5 or higher with ◎. [Evaluation criteria for moisturizing effect] 5 stars: Very satisfied 4 points: Somewhat satisfied 3 points: Average 2 points: Somewhat dissatisfied 1 point: Very dissatisfied [Criteria for evaluating skin firmness] 5 stars: Very satisfied 4 points: Somewhat satisfied 3 points: Average 2 points: Somewhat dissatisfied 1 point: Very dissatisfied [Criteria for evaluating stickiness] 5 points: Not sticky at all 4 points: Almost no stickiness 3 points: Average 2 points: Slightly sticky 1 point: Very sticky

[0034] [Assessment of liquidity] After preparing the emulsified cosmetic formulations, the fluidity of each was evaluated. 30 ml was filled into a No. 7 screw-cap tube (Maruemu Co., Ltd.) and left to stand at 5°C for 18 hours. Then, the screw-cap tube was opened and the fluidity was evaluated at a 135-degree angle according to the following criteria. "○": Leaked within 30 seconds "×": Leaks after 30 seconds, or does not leak.

[0035] [Table 1]

[0036] [Table 2]

[0037] As is clear from the results in Table 1, the liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics of Examples 1 to 17 performed well in all evaluation items, including stability over time, moisturizing effect, skin firmness, and stickiness. In Examples 1 to 3, it was confirmed that the effects of the present invention were achieved even when the amount of component A was changed. In Examples 4 to 5, it was found that the effects of the present invention were achieved regardless of the type of component B. In Examples 6 and 8, component B was present in large amounts, and in Examples 7 and 9, component B was present in small amounts, but within the respective amounts, the effects of the present invention were achieved without any problems. In Examples 10 to 14, it was found that the effects of the present invention were achieved regardless of the type of component C, and within the respective example ranges for component C, the effects of the present invention were achieved without any problems. In Examples 15 to 17, it was found that the effects of the present invention were achieved regardless of the type of component D, and within the respective example ranges for component D, the effects of the present invention were achieved without any problems.

[0038] On the other hand, as shown in the results in Table 2, Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which are similar components to component A, appeared to be smoothly prepared immediately after preparation, but crystallization and separation were observed after storage at 25°C for 3 months. Furthermore, Comparative Examples 5 and 6, which have a carbon number outside the range for component B, did not provide a satisfactory feeling in terms of firmness and moisture. Comparative Example 3 had insufficient moisture and firmness, while Comparative Example 4 had poor stability and increased stickiness. Moreover, its fluidity was very low. The results for Comparative Examples 7 and 8 also showed that when component C was low, firmness and moisture were insufficient, and when component C was high, stickiness increased and fluidity decreased. Furthermore, Comparative Examples 9 and 10, in which component C was replaced with sucrose fatty acid ester, were very sticky and had a poor feel. Comparative Example 11, in which component D was replaced with an oil containing myristic acid, had low fluidity and poor usability.

[0039] The following formulations were prepared using conventional methods. It was confirmed that each formulation exhibited the effects of the present invention.

[0040] (1) Emulsion Ingredients Amount (%) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.5 Dimethicone 2.5 Jojoba seed oil 1 Diisostearyl malate 1 Vegetable oil 1 Cetanol 2 Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) 1.5 Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 0.5 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 0.8 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) 0.8 Polyhydroxystearic acid 1 Octyldodecanol 3 Isostearyl alcohol 5 Triethylhexanoin 1 Cholesterol 0.4 Sphingoglycolipid 3 1,3-Butylene glycol 10 Glycerin 8 PEG-400 1.5 Methylgluceth-10 2 PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin 0.5 Pentylene glycol 0.5 Sorbitol 0.7 Carbomer 0.08 Xanthan gum 0.2 Pullulan 0.05 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearoxy ether 0.02 Simethicone 0.03 Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin 0.0235 Coptis japonica extract 0.004 K hydroxide 0.019 Tocopherol 0.1 Roman chamomile flower oil 0.001 Dilauroyl glutamate lysine sodium 0.0001 Retinol 0.0001 Phospholipids 0.0001 Cetyl phosphate 0.0001 Sodium hyaluronate 0.001 Niacinamide 3 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.15 Propynyl iodide butylcarbamate 0.003 water residue Total 100

[0041] (2) Emulsion Ingredients Amount (%) Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.5 Squalane 3 Dimethicone 2.5 Meadowfoam oil 2.8 Diisostearyl malate 2 Vegetable oil 1 Myristyl alcohol 1 Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) 1.5 Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 2.5 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 1.5 Macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl 1 Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate 5 Sphingoglycolipid 3 1,3-Butylene glycol 8 Glycerin 8 PEG-400 1.5 Methylgluceth-10 2 PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin 0.5 Sorbitol 0.7 Carbomer 0.1 Xanthan gum 0.3 Simethicone 0.03 Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin 0.0235 K hydroxide 0.019 Tocopherol 0.07 Ceramide NP 0.0001 Ceramide NG 0.0001 Ceramide EOP 0.0001 Retinol 0.0001 Niacinamide 3 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.15 Propynyl iodide butylcarbamate 0.003 water residue Total 100

[0042] (3) Sunscreen Ingredients Amount (%) Hydrogenated rapeseed alcohol 0.3 Zinc oxide 3.125 Isostearic acid 0.125 Polyhydroxystearic acid 2 Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 0.7 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 0.3 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1.65 Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate 2 Dimethicone 1 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 10 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 2 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2 Ethanol 5 1,3-Butylene glycol 6 Glycerin 9 Xanthan gum 0.1 Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide 0.02 PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.5 Sphingoglycolipid 0.05 (Acryloyldimethyltaurate Ammonium / VP) Copolymer 0.28 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate) Copolymer 0.07 t-butanol 0.013 Acrylates copolymer 0.9 Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 3 Tocopherol 0.05 Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin 0.024 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 Propynyl iodide butylcarbamate 0.003 Chelating agent (appropriate amount) Water level Total 100

Claims

1. A liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing the following ingredients (A) to (D). Ingredient (A): 0.14 to 1% by mass of sphingoglycolipids Component (B): 1-6% by mass of higher alcohols with 12-22 carbon atoms. Component (C): 1 to 10% by mass of one or more oils selected from dimer acid and / or dimer ol diesters, fatty acid sterol esters, and N-acyl amino acid esters. Component (D): An oil containing hydroxystearic acid in at least part of the composition other than Component (C).

2. The liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (C) comprises one or more selected from dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) di(phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) and macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosterol esters.

3. The liquid oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein component (D) comprises one or more selected from polyhydroxystearic acid, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, and ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate.

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