Dyeing and processing methods

Abstract

To provide a dyeing method capable of efficiently preparing a kimono using both Yuzen dyeing and pail dyeing without applying correction treatment by reducing the slippage of a feather as much as possible even when elongation or shrinkage occurs in a cloth.SOLUTION: A dyeing method for applying two dyeing processes of Yuzen dyeing and pail dyeing to a fabric includes an embossing process for embossing the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing process for dyeing the embossed fabric, and a pail dyeing process for applying pail dyeing to the embossed fabric, wherein the embossing process is performed prior to the Yuzen dyeing process and the pail dyeing process, and the embossing process performs both the Yuzen dyeing embossing and the pail dyeing embossing together.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a dyeing method that combines Yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing.

Background Art

[0002] Conventionally, there are kimonos that have been subjected to two different dyeing processes: Yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing.

[0003] There are multiple techniques (dyeing methods) for Yuzen dyeing, such as stenciled Yuzen dyeing and hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing. Stenciled Yuzen dyeing involves applying a pattern thread mark, color paste, and resist paste. Hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing involves making a pattern thread mark, applying color paste and resist paste according to the pattern (after steaming and washing in the case of drawing dyeing), and then inserting by hand into the pattern thread mark.

[0004] In any of these techniques, in the case of Yuzen dyeing, after sizing, the fabric is dyed by a drawing dyeing technique in which a brush is impregnated with a room-temperature dye solution and the fabric is drawn. After the fabric dyeing is dried, the color is fixed by steaming, and excess resist paste and auxiliaries are washed off with water. At this time, in stenciled Yuzen dyeing, the pattern dyed by color paste application appears by washing off the resist paste on the pattern part resisted by the resist paste, and in hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing, the pattern resisted by the resist paste appears white. In hand-inserted Yuzen dyeing, the exposed white parts are colored with a room-temperature dye using a brush or pen, and after drying, the color is fixed by steaming in the same manner as in drawing dyeing.

[0005] In addition, vat dyeing involves putting the yarn into the vat along the shape of the vat, and then performing vat packing by placing the part to be vat-dyed outside the vat and the non-dyed part inside the vat on the edge of the vat and fixing it with a lid so that the non-dyed part is inside the vat. This vat-packed item is dyed in a high-temperature dye solution. This vat dyeing results in a rough and large-scale dyed expression such as clouding, ripping, or pine bark pattern, rather than a delicate and small pattern like a Yuzen pattern.

[0006] When performing these two different dyeing techniques of Yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing in the creation of a single kimono, generally, Yuzen dyeing (drawing dyeing) is carried out by a drawing dyer, and vat dyeing is carried out by a vat dyer, so they are performed separately. [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0007] By the way, as mentioned above, Yuzen dyeing uses a technique called hikizome. In this hikizome, tensioners are attached to both ends of the fabric (bolt of cloth), each tensioner is fixed to a support with a string, and stretchers are set at equal intervals so that the width of the fabric is constant. Then, both ends of the fabric with the tensioners attached are pulled, and the work is carried out with the fabric taut, so after the work is done the fabric is stretched in the length direction due to the pulling.

[0008] Furthermore, in barrel dyeing, thread gathering occurs when the fabric is packed into the barrel, and tie-dyeing processes such as hat tie-dyeing and hikita tie-dyeing are performed. As a result of these tie-dyeing processes, the areas around the tie-dyed parts of the fabric become shrunk after the dyeing is complete.

[0009] Therefore, when performing dyeing processes that combine Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, for example, as shown in Figure 6, if tub dyeing is performed after Yuzen dyeing, the stencil for tub dyeing is applied when the fabric is stretched. Conversely, if Yuzen dyeing is performed after tub dyeing, the stencil for Yuzen dyeing is applied when the fabric around the tie-dyeing process is shrunk. In this way, when the stencil is applied while the fabric is stretched or shrunk and the reference point is shifted, a problem occurs where the pattern does not fit together (the pattern is misaligned), as shown in Figure 7. If this misalignment exceeds the acceptable range, appropriate corrective processing is performed.

[0010] Specifically, if there was a misalignment in the pattern of the kimono, priority was given to matching the thread-dyed pattern, which resulted in a misalignment in the vat-dyed area. This misalignment in the vat-dyed area had to be corrected. When correcting the vat-dyed area, if the background color was light, the vat-dyed color was added to the background color to match the pattern. If both the background color and the vat-dyed area were dark, one of the colors was removed and the colors were matched to match the pattern. These correction processes were extremely troublesome.

[0011] This invention has been made in view of the current situation, and aims to provide a dyeing method that minimizes misalignment of the pattern even when the fabric stretches or shrinks, and that allows for the efficient production of kimonos using a combination of Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing without requiring any corrective processing. [Means for solving the problem]

[0012] The gist of the present invention will be explained with reference to the attached drawings.

[0013] A dyeing method that applies two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing, to a fabric, comprising a patterning step of applying a pattern to the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing step of applying a brush dye to the patterned fabric, and a vat dyeing step of applying a vat dye to the patterned fabric, wherein the patterning step is performed before the Yuzen dyeing step and the vat dyeing step, and further, this patterning step So , both the stencil application for the aforementioned Yuzen dyeing and the stencil application for the aforementioned tub dyeing do This relates to a dyeing method characterized by the following:

[0014] Furthermore, the dyeing method according to claim 1 is characterized in that the patterning step is performed in a single board-working session, with at least thread pattern, reverse pattern and bucket line pattern being applied.

[0015] Furthermore, the dyeing process described in claim 2 is characterized in that the pattern-making step involves patterning the bucket line pattern after patterning the thread pattern, and then patterning the face-down pattern after patterning the bucket line pattern.

[0016] Furthermore, the dyeing method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is characterized in that the vat dyeing step includes thread insertion, and this thread insertion is characterized in that thread is sewn along the vat lines attached to the fabric in the patterning step at predetermined intervals.

[0017] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a dyeing method according to claim 4, characterized in that the predetermined interval is 4 mm to 7 mm.

Advantages of the Invention

[0018] Since the present invention is configured as described above, even if the fabric stretches or shrinks, the deviation of the picture patterns is reduced as much as possible, and it becomes an epoch-making dyeing method capable of efficiently producing a kimono using a combination of yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing without performing a correction process.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0019] [Figure 1] This is a process flow diagram (schematic) of the present embodiment. [Figure 2] This is a process flow diagram (detailed) of the present embodiment. [Figure 3] This is an explanatory diagram showing each typing and the thread insertion positions in the present embodiment. [Figure 4] This is a schematic diagram showing the state of picture pattern alignment in the present embodiment. [Figure 5] This is a photograph showing the finished state of the main part in the present embodiment. [Figure 6] This is a process flow diagram (schematic) of a conventional dyeing method using a combination of yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing. [Figure 7] This is a schematic diagram showing the state of picture pattern alignment in a conventional dyeing method using a combination of yuzen dyeing and vat dyeing.

Modes for Carrying Out the Invention

[0020] Embodiments of the present invention considered to be suitable will be briefly described based on the drawings while showing the operation of the present invention.

[0021] As shown in FIG. 1, in the present invention, the typing process is performed prior to the yuzen dyeing process and the vat dyeing process, and in this typing process, both the typing for yuzen dyeing and the typing for vat dyeing are performed together.

[0022] In other words, in this invention, since both the Yuzen dyeing pattern setting and the tub dyeing pattern setting are performed on fabric that has not undergone any dyeing process and has not stretched or shrunk (because the Yuzen dyeing pattern setting and the tub dyeing pattern setting are applied to the same reference position without any misalignment), even if the fabric stretches or shrinks due to the subsequent Yuzen dyeing or tub dyeing, the Yuzen dyeing pattern and the tub dyeing pattern are already applied to the correct position, so misalignment is prevented as much as possible when matching the patterns.

[0023] This makes it possible to efficiently create kimonos using both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing without requiring any correction or modification.

[0024] Furthermore, while traditionally Yuzen dyeing was done separately at dye shops and tub dyeing at tub dye shops, this invention makes it possible to produce Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing in a single location, enabling more efficient production of kimonos using both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing techniques. [Examples]

[0025] Specific embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

[0026] This embodiment is a dyeing method that applies two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, to white fabric, and as shown in Figure 1, it includes a design and stencil creation process in which a pattern is designed and a stencil is made based on this design, a stencil application process in which the stencil is applied to the white fabric, a Yuzen dyeing process in which brush dyeing or hand-dyeing of Yuzen dye is applied to the stenciled white fabric, and a tub dyeing process in which tub dyeing is applied to the stenciled white fabric, wherein the stencil application process is performed before the Yuzen dyeing process and the tub dyeing process, and furthermore, both the stencil application for Yuzen dyeing and the stencil application for tub dyeing are performed together in this stencil application process.

[0027] Specifically, as shown in Figure 2, this embodiment includes a design / pattern creation process, a pattern application process, a first Yuzen dyeing process, a vat dyeing process, a second Yuzen dyeing process, and a finishing process, and the work is performed in this order.

[0028] The design and pattern creation process involves creating designs and patterns. Design creation includes creating a full-size kimono design called the "main design" (which includes patterns and lines for tub dyeing, and serves as the base drawing for creating each pattern), as well as creating color stencils by coloring the tub lines and the background pattern for Yuzen dyeing, and instructional designs used when creating the blue flower stencil for the tub lines, etc., on top of the main design.

[0029] Specifically, when creating this design, the bucket lines are drawn with dotted lines to distinguish them from the pattern, and when drawing these bucket lines, they are drawn at a certain distance from the pattern (approximately 4mm to 7mm, preferably about 4.5mm (1.5 bu) to about 6mm (2 bu)) so that the bucket lines do not touch the pattern.

[0030] Furthermore, the pattern making process involves creating various patterns such as thread patterns, color patterns, dappled blue patterns, bucket-line blue patterns, and reverse patterns based on this design and the instruction design.

[0031] In this embodiment, in the design and pattern making process, a stencil printing technique is also performed in which each pattern is printed onto a nonwoven fabric separate from the white fabric in order to check for any defects in the finished patterns and to use them as processing instructions when performing the dyeing process (not shown).

[0032] The pattern-setting process involves inspecting the white fabric, applying patterns for Yuzen dyeing, and applying patterns for vat dyeing.

[0033] In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 2, both the Yuzen dyeing process and the tub dyeing process are performed in a single board-working session. Specifically, at least the outline pattern, the underlay pattern, and the tub line pattern (in this embodiment, the outline pattern, the color pattern, the tub line blue flower pattern, the dappled blue flower pattern, and the underlay pattern) are applied before the two dyeing processes are carried out.

[0034] In detail, first, the white fabric that has been inspected is stretched onto a patterning board. At that time, the weave of the white fabric is evenly aligned and stretched onto the board without any stretching or shrinking.

[0035] Next, markings common to the thread-pattern, color-pattern, and under-pattern dyeing techniques of Yuzen dyeing, as well as the under-pattern dyeing technique of the under-pattern dyeing technique, are placed along the shoulder seam and hemline of the white fabric. Following these markings, the patterns are applied in the order of thread-pattern, color-pattern, under-pattern dyeing technique, and under-pattern dyeing technique (Figure 3 shows the state after each pattern has been applied).

[0036] After each shaping step is complete, a special sheet is placed between the white fabric layers and rolled up to proceed to the next step (the Yuzen dyeing process).

[0037] Furthermore, when dyeing is not performed, the stencils used are thread-pattern, bucket-line blue flower pattern, and dappled blue flower pattern. Also, when dyeing is not performed but there is a base pattern and color paste stencil, the stencils used are thread-pattern, base pattern color paste, bucket-line blue flower pattern, dappled blue flower pattern, and reversed pattern.

[0038] The Yuzen dyeing process is a process in which Yuzen dyeing is performed on the predetermined areas that were marked in the aforementioned stencil-making process.

[0039] In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 2, the Yuzen dyeing process is performed twice. The first Yuzen dyeing process is performed after the pattern-setting process, and the second Yuzen dyeing process is performed after the vat dyeing process.

[0040] In the first stage of the Yuzen dyeing process, the base is prepared and then the dyeing is applied. The base preparation is a pretreatment to ensure uniform dyeing during the dyeing process. In this example, a base solution is prepared by mixing soy milk, seaweed paste, and an auxiliary agent, and this solution is then applied evenly to both sides of the white fabric with a brush.

[0041] After this initial preparation, the fabric is dyed using conventional methods, followed by steaming and rinsing.

[0042] Furthermore, during the first stage of Yuzen dyeing (especially the base preparation), the white fabric is stretched taut by pulling both ends of the white fabric, causing the entire white fabric to stretch in the longitudinal direction.

[0043] In the second Yuzen dyeing process, hand-dyeing is performed. This hand-dyeing is done using conventional methods, and after inspection, the fabric is steamed and washed, just like in the first Yuzen dyeing process.

[0044] The vat dyeing process involves steps such as inserting the yarn and tie-dyeing, followed by vat dyeing.

[0045] In this embodiment, as shown in Figure 2, the process involves inserting yarn, inspection, tie-dyeing, steaming, tub packing, tub dyeing, inspection, tie-dyeing undoing, and washing.

[0046] In the shaping process, threads are sewn along the bucket lines that have been marked on the white fabric during the shaping process, at predetermined intervals (approximately 4mm to 7mm, preferably about 4.5mm (1.5 bu) to about 6mm (2 bu)).

[0047] Specifically, wet the area to be threaded with water, and as shown in Figure 3, sew the thread approximately 4.5 mm (1.5 bu) outside the barrel line, near the pattern stitching, and proceed with the work while gathering the white fabric (gathering the thread) (to ensure that when filling the barrel, the center of the gathered thread becomes straight and the wrinkles and height of the gathered white fabric become uniform).

[0048] The tie-dyeing process involves techniques such as Hikida tie-dyeing and Boushi tie-dyeing (sometimes both are performed, or sometimes only one of them is performed).

[0049] In the process of tub dyeing, the first step is to place the steamed white fabric, after the tie-dyeing process is complete, into tubs.

[0050] For tub packing, the parts to be dyed in the tub (in this embodiment, the tie-dyeing parts are placed outside the tub for tub dyeing) are placed outside the tub, while the parts not to be dyed are placed inside the tub. The tub is then placed on the rim and secured with a lid (a sealing member (in this embodiment, a twisted paper member) is provided around the rim of the tub to prevent the dye solution from entering the tub, and the lid is further tightened and secured firmly using a special tool).

[0051] Specifically, the white fabric is secured by inserting a needle along the needle-insertion line on the rim of the tub (this position remains unchanged even after the tub lid is placed on top, and this position serves as the reference line that determines the edge of the tub when dyed). Note that the needle-insertion line is not in the center of the tub rim, but about 5mm to 6mm from the outside of the tub (the side where the tub is dyed).

[0052] The space between this needle-punching line and the edge of the vat, that is, the space between the thread insertion point and the actual vat dyeing, becomes the gap between the vat line blue dye and the pattern threads / background color paste (the pattern is avoided at regular intervals in this space, which is susceptible to the effects of dye insertion and pressure).

[0053] After being packed into barrels, the fabric is dyed in barrels. Barrel dyeing is a process in which the white fabric is immersed in a high-temperature (approximately 90°C to 100°C) dye solution containing dyes and auxiliary agents. Unlike delicate and small patterns such as Yuzen dyeing, barrel dyeing is used for larger areas such as cloud patterns, striped patterns, and pine bark patterns, resulting in a rough dye that takes advantage of the characteristics of barrel tie-dyeing.

[0054] After tub dyeing, the fabric is immersed in an alkaline solution to fix the color, and then the alkaline solution is removed by rinsing with water.

[0055] After this alkali-removing rinse, the condition of the dyed fabric is inspected. If there are no problems, the fabric is rinsed again while loosening the tie-dye. Once the tie-dyeing and rinsing are complete, the fabric is placed in a drying room to dry.

[0056] In this vat dyeing process, when filling the vat with white fabric, techniques such as tie-dyeing, cap tie-dyeing, and dappled tie-dyeing are used to tie the flat fabric, causing wrinkles to form and the fabric to bulge. As the fabric is pulled around the tie-dyeed areas, shrinkage occurs in the white fabric.

[0057] After the aforementioned vat dyeing process, a second Yuzen dyeing process is carried out.

[0058] The second Yuzen dyeing process involves hand-dyeing using conventional methods, and after completion, the fabric is steamed and rinsed, just as in the first dyeing process.

[0059] The processing steps involve decorative work other than Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, specifically the application of gold leaf and embroidery.

[0060] In this embodiment, the thread pattern is given a gold finish.

[0061] In this embodiment, after the processing steps described above, temporary stitching is performed, followed by confirmation (inspection) of the pattern alignment, and then the process is completed (dyeing is finished).

[0062] The effects and advantages of this embodiment, as described above, are explained below.

[0063] In this embodiment, the stenciling process is performed before the Yuzen dyeing process and the vat dyeing process. In this stenciling process, both the Yuzen dyeing stenciling and the vat dyeing stenciling are performed together in a single workbench. As a result, both the Yuzen dyeing stenciling and the vat dyeing stenciling are performed on white fabric that has not been dyed and has not stretched or shrunk. Therefore, even if the fabric stretches or shrinks during the subsequent Yuzen dyeing or vat dyeing, no misalignment occurs in the pattern matching, as shown in Figure 4.

[0064] This makes it possible to efficiently create kimonos using both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing without requiring any correction or modification.

[0065] Furthermore, in this embodiment, when creating the design, the bucket lines are drawn on the pattern at regular intervals (approximately 4 mm to 7 mm, preferably about 4.5 mm (1.5 bu) to about 6 mm (2 bu)), and the thread is inserted along the bucket lines at predetermined intervals (approximately 4 mm to 7 mm, preferably about 4.5 mm (1.5 bu) to about 6 mm (2 bu)) relative to the bucket lines attached to the white fabric. As shown in Figure 5, the Yuzen dyed pattern and the bucket-dyed area are distinguished (they do not overlap), and the characteristic unevenness of the dyed edge can be clearly expressed.

[0066] Furthermore, while traditionally Yuzen dyeing was done at separate dyeing shops and tub dyeing at separate tub dyeing shops, this embodiment makes it possible to produce Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing in a single location, enabling more efficient production of kimonos using both Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing techniques.

[0067] It should be noted that the present invention is not limited to this embodiment, and the specific configuration of each constituent element can be designed as appropriate.

Claims

1. A dyeing method for applying two dyeing processes, Yuzen dyeing and tub dyeing, to a fabric, comprising a patterning step of applying a pattern to the fabric, a Yuzen dyeing step of applying a brush dye to the patterned fabric, and a tub dyeing step of applying a tub dye to the patterned fabric, wherein the patterning step is performed before the Yuzen dyeing step and the tub dyeing step, and furthermore, the patterning step is performed to apply both the pattern for Yuzen dyeing and the pattern for tub dyeing.

2. The dyeing method according to claim 1, characterized in that the patterning step is performed in a single board-working session to apply patterns of at least a thread pattern, a faceted pattern, and a bucket line pattern.

3. The dyeing process according to claim 2, characterized in that the pattern-making step involves patterning the bucket line pattern after patterning the thread pattern, and then patterning the face-down pattern after patterning the bucket line pattern.

4. A dyeing method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the vat dyeing step includes thread insertion, and the thread insertion is characterized in that thread is sewn along the vat lines attached to the fabric in the patterning step at predetermined intervals.

5. The dyeing method according to claim 4, characterized in that the predetermined interval is 4 mm to 7 mm.

Images