Oil-based cosmetics
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- KAO CORP
- Filing Date
- 2021-06-22
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-03
Smart Images

Figure 0007898831000001 
Figure 0007898831000002 
Figure 0007898831000003
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic.
Background Art
[0002] Oily cosmetics contain various oily components and are used, for example, to impart an emollient effect by applying them to the skin or lips. Oils with high melting points tend to cause a greasy and sticky feeling, and liquid oily cosmetics that suppress these have been studied. For example, Patent Document 1 describes a liquid oily cosmetic containing a specific dextrin fatty acid ester, an oil with a melting point of 30°C or higher, and an oil that is liquid at 25°C, which can stably contain an oil with a melting point of 30°C or higher while being a liquid oily cosmetic.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0003]
Patent Document 1
Summary of the Invention
Problems to be Solved by the Invention
[0004] However, it has been difficult to stably ensure a transparent appearance in cosmetics containing a sterol ester that is solid at 25°C. In addition, there have been problems in terms of feel, such as being difficult to spread, having a poor texture, being sticky, or having a greasy feeling.
Means for Solving the Problems
[0005] The present inventor has found that by using squalane in combination with a sterol ester that is solid at 25°C, an oily cosmetic can be obtained that has a transparent appearance, excellent stability, is easy to spread, has a good texture, and is also excellent in feel.
[0006] The present invention provides the following components (A) and (B): (A) Squalane, (B) Sterol esters that are solid at 25°C This invention relates to an oily cosmetic composition containing [a specific ingredient], which is clear at 25°C and has a viscosity of 5 to 400 mPa·s. [Effects of the Invention]
[0007] The oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention is transparent in appearance, has excellent stability, is easy to spread, has a pleasant feel when applied, is not sticky, does not feel oily, and has a superior texture. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0008] The squalane (A) used in this invention can be any type commonly used in cosmetics, for example, it may be derived from animal or vegetable oils, and hydrogenated squalene refined from olives, rice, sharks, etc., or squalane prepared by hydrogenating squalene produced by condensing terpenes produced by fermentation can also be used. Examples of commercially available squalane products containing ingredient (A) include NIKKOL Refined Olive Squalane, NIKKOL Sugar Squalane (both manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), Squalane, and Vegetable Squalane (both manufactured by Kishimoto Special Cod Liver Oil Industry Co., Ltd.).
[0009] The squalane content of component (A) is preferably 5 to 99% by mass, more preferably 15 to 85% by mass, even more preferably 25 to 75% by mass, and even more preferably 30 to 55% by mass, from the viewpoint of improving the transparency, stability, and spreadability of the appearance and reducing stickiness and oiliness.
[0010] The sterol ester of component (B) used in this invention is a solid at 25°C. A substance is considered solid at 25°C if, at 25°C, 25g of the sample is placed in a 50mL glass bottle and tilted at a 90° angle, and does not flow out for 30 minutes or more. Furthermore, when the viscosity is measured using a B-type viscometer at 25°C under the conditions of rotor No. 4 and rotation speed of 6 rpm, the substance must be 20,000 mPa·s or higher. The sterol ester of component (B) can be any sterol ester commonly used in cosmetics, but it is preferable that the sterol ester contains one or two selected from phytosterols (a mixture including campesterol, stigmasterol, and β-sitosterol) and cholesterol.
[0011] The sterol ester of component (B) is not limited as long as it is used in cosmetics, but from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability, and reducing stickiness and oiliness, it is preferable to include one or more selected from acyl amino acid sterols / higher alcohol esters, dimer dilinoleate sterols / higher alcohol esters, and sterol fatty acid esters, more preferably one or more selected from dimer dilinoleate sterols / higher alcohol esters and sterol fatty acid esters, and even more preferably sterol fatty acid esters.
[0012] Of component (B), the phytosterol ester is not limited as long as it is used in cosmetics, but from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability of appearance and reducing stickiness and oiliness, it is preferable to include one or more selected from acyl amino acid phytosterol / higher alcohol ester, dimer dilinoleate phytosterol / higher alcohol ester, and phytosterol fatty acid ester, more preferably to include one or more selected from dimer dilinoleate phytosterol / higher alcohol ester and phytosterol fatty acid ester, and even more preferably phytosterol fatty acid ester.
[0013] More specifically, the acyl amino acid phytosterol / higher alcohol ester is more preferably one or more selected from lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) and myristoyl methyl-β-alanine(phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl).
[0014] As for the phytosterol dimer dilinoleate / higher alcohol ester, it is more preferable to include one or more selected from dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / behenyl), dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), and dimer dilinoleate dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability, and reducing stickiness and oiliness.
[0015] As phytosterol fatty acid esters, it is preferable to include one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, lanolin fatty acid phytosteryl, stearate phytosteryl, hydroxystearate phytosteryl, oleate phytosteryl, oleate dihydrophytosteryl, ricinoleate phytosteryl, nonanoate phytosteryl, rice bran oil fatty acid phytosteryl, palmitate phytosteryl, and butyrate phytosterol, from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability, and reducing stickiness and oiliness. It is more preferable to include one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, lanolin fatty acid phytosteryl, stearate phytosteryl, hydroxystearate phytosteryl, oleate phytosteryl and ricinoleate phytosteryl, and even more preferable to include one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, lanolin fatty acid phytosteryl, stearate phytosteryl and oleate phytosteryl, with macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl being even more preferable.
[0016] Examples of commercially available phytosterol esters include Eldew PS-304, Eldew PS-306 (Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl)), Eldew APS-307 (Myristoyl methyl-β-alanine (phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl)) (all manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), Plandool-MAS (Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl), Plandool-ISS (Isostearate phytosteryl), Plandool-S, Plandool-H (Dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl)), Plandool-G (Dimer dilinoleate dimer dilinoleyl bis(behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl)), Plandool-SUN (Oleate phytosteryl) (all manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), and Saracos. Examples include FH (phytosteryl hydroxystearate) (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.).
[0017] Of component (B), the cholesterol ester preferably includes one or more selected from acyl amino acid cholesterol / higher alcohol esters and cholesterol fatty acid esters, with cholesterol fatty acid esters being more preferred, from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability of appearance, and reducing stickiness and oiliness.
[0018] More specifically, it is preferable that the acyl amino acid cholesterol / higher alcohol ester includes lauroyl glutamate di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl).
[0019] The cholesterol fatty acid ester preferably contains one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, hydroxystearate cholesteryl, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl, cholesteryl stearate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl oleate, dihydrocholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl ricinoleate, and cholesteryl nonanoate. It is more preferable to include one or more selected from cholesteryl isostearate and cholesteryl oleate, even more preferable to include one or more selected from macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl and cholesteryl isostearate, even more preferable to include one or more selected from branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl and cholesteryl isostearate, and especially preferable to include branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl.
[0020] Examples of commercially available cholesterol esters include Eldew CL-301 (Lauroyl glutamate di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl)) (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), Saracos HS (Hydroxystearate cholesteryl) (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.), Excepal IS-CE-A (Isostearate cholesteryl) (manufactured by Kao Corporation), YOFCO-MAC (Macadamia nut fatty acid cholesteryl), YOFCO CLE-S (Lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl), and ECOLANO CLE-NH (Branched fatty acid (C12-31) cholesteryl) (all manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.).
[0021] As component (B), from the viewpoints of improving the transparency, stability and elongation of the appearance, and reducing stickiness and oily feeling, it preferably contains one or more selected from phytosterol fatty acid esters and cholesterol fatty acid esters, more preferably contains one or more selected from (b1) phytosteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid and (b2) cholesteryl branched fatty acid (C12-31), and even more preferably contains (b1) phytosteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid and (b2) cholesteryl branched fatty acid (C12-31). When using (b1) phytosteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid and (b2) cholesteryl branched fatty acid (C12-31) in combination as component (B), the mass ratio (b1) / (b2) of (b1) phytosteryl macadamia nut oil fatty acid to (b2) cholesteryl branched fatty acid (C12-31) is preferably 0.1 to 20, more preferably 0.2 to 10, and even more preferably 0.45 to 5 from the viewpoints of improving the transparency, stability and elongation of the appearance, and reducing stickiness and oily feeling.
[0022] Component (B) can be used in combination of one or more, and the content is preferably 0.5 to 25% by mass in the whole composition, more preferably 3 to 18% by mass, even more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, and still more preferably 7 to 13% by mass from the viewpoints of improving the transparency, stability and elongation of the appearance, and reducing stickiness and oily feeling.
[0023] In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.5 to 100, more preferably 1.5 to 60, and even more preferably 2.5 to 20 from the viewpoints of improving the transparency, stability and elongation of the appearance, and reducing stickiness and oily feeling.
[0024] The oily cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (C) phenyl silicone and can stably contain solid crystal components such as hydrogenated soy phospholipid and ceramide. The phenyl silicone in component (C) is one commonly used in cosmetics, such as phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxysane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane. Of these, methylphenylpolysiloxane is preferred from the viewpoint of improving transparency and stability.
[0025] Component (C) can be used in combination of one or more types, and its content is preferably 0.1 to 75% by mass, more preferably 5 to 40% by mass, and even more preferably 8 to 20% by mass, from the viewpoint of stability and feel.
[0026] The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain oily components other than the components (A), (B), and (C) mentioned above. Such oily components may be any that are commonly used in cosmetics, for example, liquid hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin and hydrogenated polydecene; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane and cyclic silicones; waxes such as jojoba oil, beeswax, Japan wax, and carnauba wax; fatty acid esters such as octyldodecyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, octyl octanoate, isostearyl isostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tri(caprylic / capric)ate, and glyceryl tri(caprylic, capric, myristic, stearic)ate; Examples include higher alcohols such as cetanol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and long-chain branched aliphatic alcohols; sterols such as cholesterol and phytosterols; processed oils such as hydrogenated oils; higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid, and isostearic acid; ethers such as dicaprylyl ether and dioctyl ether; terpenes such as limonene and hydrogenated bisabolol; and animal and vegetable oils such as olive oil, macadamia nut oil, orange roughy oil, avocado oil, meadowfoam oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, apricot kernel oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, mango butter, and Euglena oil. Other than components (A), (B), and (C), the oily components are preferably liquid at 25°C from the viewpoint of improving transparency, stability, and spreadability, and reducing stickiness and oiliness. Liquid at 25°C means that when 25g of the sample is placed in a 50mL glass bottle and tilted at 90°C at 25°C, it flows out within 30 minutes, and when the viscosity is measured using a B-type viscometer at 25°C under the conditions of rotor No. 4 and rotation speed of 6 rpm, it is less than 20,000 mPa·s.
[0027] Oily components other than these components (A), (B), and (C) can be used individually or in combination of two or more, and their content is preferably 0.1 to 85% by mass of the total composition, more preferably 1 to 75% by mass, and even more preferably 5 to 60% by mass, from the viewpoint of stability and feel.
[0028] In addition to the above-mentioned components, the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain components commonly used in cosmetics, such as lower alcohols like ethanol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerin, surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants, pigments, fragrances, UV absorbers, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, bactericides, skin activators, vitamins, antioxidants, and the like.
[0029] The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured by conventional methods. For example, it can be manufactured by appropriately mixing predetermined components, and can be manufactured by uniformly mixing and dispersing all components, regardless of the order in which they are mixed.
[0030] The oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention is transparent at 25°C. "Transparent" means that when an oil-based cosmetic is placed in a 50 mL glass bottle and observed from the side, it is uniform and free from any cloudiness.
[0031] Furthermore, the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention has a viscosity of 5 to 400 mPa·s at 25°C, preferably 10 to 300 mPa·s, more preferably 15 to 200 mPa·s, even more preferably 20 to 150 mPa·s, and still more preferably 25 to 100 mPa·s. In this invention, viscosity is measured using a B-type viscometer at a rotation speed of 12 rpm, a measurement time of 60 seconds, and a measurement temperature of 25°C. Depending on the viscosity of the oily cosmetic, the following rotors are used for measurement. Viscosity less than 50 mPa·s: Rotor No. 1 Viscosity between 50 mPa·s and 400 mPa·s: Rotor No. 2.
[0032] The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in which the oil is a continuous phase. Because the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention has the viscosity and fluidity described above, it can be used by filling it into containers with special functional structures such as suction-type pump dispensers, mist dispensers, airless dispensing containers, and shake-type bottle containers. [Examples]
[0033] Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1-4 Oily cosmetic compositions with the compositions shown in Table 1 were prepared, and their viscosity was measured. Transparency, stability, application feel, stickiness, and oiliness were also evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0034] (Manufacturing method) The ingredients were melted at 80°C, then mixed and dispersed, and cooled to 32°C to obtain an oil-based cosmetic.
[0035] (Evaluation method) (1) Viscosity: After manufacturing each oil-based cosmetic, the mixture was allowed to stand at 25°C for 6 hours. Then, a B-type viscometer was used to measure the viscosity at a rotation speed of 12 rpm, a measurement time of 60 seconds, and a measurement temperature of 25°C. The rotor used varied depending on the viscosity of the oil-based cosmetic. Viscosity less than 50 mPa·s: Rotor No. 1 Viscosity between 50 mPa·s and 400 mPa·s: Rotor No. 2. In the table, "solidified" means that measurement was not possible because the sample had solidified, and "phase separation" means that the precipitation of a solid was clearly visible, and therefore measurement was not possible because phase separation occurred.
[0036] (2) Transparency: After manufacturing each oil-based cosmetic, it was placed in a 50 mL glass bottle and allowed to stand at 25°C for 6 hours. Then, the bottle was placed in close contact with a piece of paper bearing 8-point lettering (black text on a white background). The legibility of the lettering was evaluated. The results are shown according to the following criteria. ◎: The 8-point text written on the paper is clearly legible (transparent). ○: The 8-point text written on the slip of paper is legible. ×: The 8-point text on the slip of paper is illegible (illegible).
[0037] (3) Stability: After manufacturing each oil-based cosmetic, it was placed in a 50 mL glass bottle and stored at 25°C for one week. The state of solid precipitation was then observed visually at 25°C. ○: No precipitation at all. △: Slight precipitation is visible. ×: Precipitation is clearly visible.
[0038] (4) Texture when applied: Approximately 20g of each oil-based cosmetic was placed in a 30mL bottle with a 5φ inner stopper opening. The ease of spreading the product when shaken onto the skin and applied with fingers was evaluated according to the following criteria. ○: It stretches easily. △: It stretches slowly. ×: The liquid either doesn't come out of the container when shaken, or even when shaken, it's noticeably thick and difficult to spread.
[0039] (5) Slippery: Approximately 20g of each oil-based cosmetic was placed in a 30mL bottle with a 5φ inner stopper opening. The slipperiness when the product was shaken onto the skin and applied with a finger was evaluated according to the following criteria. ◎: Does not feel slimy. ○: Doesn't feel very slimy. △: Feels slightly slimy. ×: It feels noticeably slimy.
[0040] (6) Oily feeling: Approximately 20g of each oil-based cosmetic was placed in a 30mL bottle with a 5φ inner stopper opening. After shaking the bottle onto the skin and applying it with a finger, the oiliness of the skin after application was evaluated according to the following criteria. ◎: Does not feel oily. ○: Doesn't feel very oily. △: Slightly oily feel. ×: I feel a strong oily sensation.
[0041] [Table 1]
[0042] *1:ECOLANO CLE―NH (manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.) *2: PLANDOOL-MAS (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) *3: NIKKOL Sugar Squalane (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) *4: Clopure OL-LQ-(JP) (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.) *5: DOWSIL FZ-209(-G) (manufactured by Dow-Toray)
[0043] Examples 6-30, Comparative Examples 5-21 Oily cosmetic compositions with the compositions shown in Tables 2 to 4 were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 5, and their viscosity was measured, along with their transparency and stability. The results are also shown in Tables 2 to 4. 6-21, 25, 26 and 28-30 This is an example. Furthermore, all of the oil-based cosmetics in Examples 6 to 30 are excellent in terms of application feel, lack of stickiness, and lack of oiliness.
[0044] [Table 2]
[0045] [Table 3]
[0046] [Table 4]
[0047] *6: Exepal IS-CE-A (manufactured by Kao Corporation) *7: Ceramide presome KII (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.)
[0048] Example prescription 1 (moisturizing serum) Oily cosmetic (moisturizing serum) with the composition shown in Table 5 was manufactured in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 5.
[0049] [Table 5]
[0050] Prescription Example 2 (Whitening Serum) Oily cosmetic products (whitening serums) with the compositions shown in Table 6 were manufactured in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 5.
[0051] [Table 6]
[0052] Prescription Example 3 (Whitening Serum) Oily cosmetic products (massage oils) with the compositions shown in Table 7 were manufactured in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 5.
[0053] [Table 7]
[0054] The oil-based cosmetics in formulation examples 1-3 are all transparent in appearance, have excellent stability, are easy to spread, have a pleasant feel when applied, are not greasy, do not feel oily, and have a superior texture.
Claims
1. The following components (A) and (B): (A) Squalane 5-33% by mass, (B) Sterol esters that are solid at 25°C: 0.5 to 18% by mass It contains [a certain substance], is transparent at 25°C, and has a viscosity of 5 to 400 mPa·s. Component (B) is (b1) and (b2) below: (b1) Macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, (b2) Long-chain branched fatty acid cholesteryl An oily cosmetic composition comprising one or more selected from the above, wherein the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is 0.5 to 60.
2. Furthermore, the oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising (C) phenyl silicone.